Results for IWC Mark XX

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Worn & Wound

Patek Philippe   Jun 5, 2025

Introducing the Héron Mirabel GMT, an Affordable, Vintage Inspired Dressy Travel Watch

It’s hard not to feel overwhelmed by the amount of quirky young watch brands pushing to make their name in the horological world-it seems like we are in the current golden age of microbrands and upstarts. Canadian watchmakers Héron, founded in Montreal in 2021, are among that crowd, and looking to make a name for themselves with vintage-inspired styling that is aimed at collectors with old-school taste. With their latest, the Mirabel GMT, the Québécois brand is channeling both aviation functionality and upscale dressy styling to produce a dual-duty timepiece ala upmarket stalwarts like Longines and Patek Philippe.  The Mirabel GMT sits within a stainless steel “C-shaped” case, and measures in at a sporty 37.5mm in diameter and 43.5mm lug-to-lug. True to Héron’s vintage-look aspirations, the enamel painted sector dial has an art deco flair, and features applied Roman numerals, pilot-style “alpha” hands, and a boxed sapphire crystal with underside anti-reflective coating. Four references are available for the Mirabel GMT, with varying dial shades, Delugs Baranil leather strap options, and case finishes. The “black” option features a black dial with gold details and case, and sits on a black strap, while the “brown” option also features gold accents, but wears a luxurious brown dial. Likewise, the “white” edition features a crisp white dial with blue hands and a dark blue strap, and the “blue” model has a blue dial and the same dark blue s...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Jun 5, 2025

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years of the Aqualand, One of the Most Unique Dive Watches Ever Made

There are lots of dive watches out there – it’s perhaps the most ubiquitous of all the watch genres. Frankly, it’s easy to see why. In addition to being highly specialized for a very specific task, they tend to work incredibly well as casual, everyday watches regardless of what you happen to be doing with them. The reason for this is very much because of the design traits these watches share that make them so highly specialized: ultra clear legibility, robust water proof cases, and a generally nondescript design that allows the watch to be worn easily with a wetsuit and also blend into the fabric of our everyday lives.  But then there are a handful of truly unusual dive watches that give away their specialized nature even at a passing glance. They look less like watches and more like obscure devices or instruments that should only be used by people who really know what they’re doing, have received the necessary training, and perhaps have signed a liability waiver. The Omega Ploprof immediately comes to mind, as does something like the Singer Divetrack – these are watches that play with the form of what we understand a watch to be in the name of functionality. Citizen, for 40 years, has also made a watch that fits neatly into this category: the Aqualand. The name is a bit of an oxymoron, but the watch itself is less confusing. It has always been a uniquely specialized instrument tailored to the specific needs of divers.  This year marks the 40th anniversary of t...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Ulysse Nardin Freak Gains Jun 4, 2025

The Entry-Level Ulysse Nardin Freak Gains a Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Ulysse Nardin gives its most affordable Freak a new look with a blue flinqué enamel dial and rose gold case. The brand has launched three other Freaks with enamel dials over the past two years, but all were small-run, retailer-exclusive limited editions. The Freak X Gold Enamel, on the other hand, is not retailer-specific and will be limited to 120 examples. The watch puts Ulysse Nardin’s investments in silicon fabrication and dial making to good use, and with good results. The combination of traditional métiers d’art with state-of-the-art technology also makes it more approachable to traditionalists than a typical Freak. Initial Thoughts Even as it nears 25 years on the market, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak remains avant-garde in aesthetics and technology. The Freak looks and feels like a small-batch concept watch, rather than the collection staple it’s become. It’s hard to believe you can walk into a retailer and walk out with something like this from a major Swiss brand for less than six figures. A rarely mentioned refinement is the use of clear sapphire jewels, rather than the typical reddish-purple rubies. It’s rare for brands to harmonize jewel colors with the rest of the watch, but it always results in a more cohesive look. Besides striking looks, its also a surprisingly practical watch, with a reasonably sized case, respectable lume, and 50 m water resistance. Overall, a well-rounded package, though the US$10,300 premium for the enamel dial over the regular ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Bulova Jun 3, 2025

Bulova Devil Diver Review

The Bulova Devil Diver (formally known as the Bulova Oceanographer) first debuted back in the 1960s, when it went on to become something of a cult classic. It wasn’t a record-breaking dive watch worn by the world’s most accomplished that-and-that, it just had a striking design, and there was something edgy and subversive about that “666ft” on the dial. Of course, that number has to do with its water resistance and nothing sinister, but the Devil Diver moniker is really catchy and has stuck. Back in 2018, Bulova reissued the Oceanographer, but at 44mm wide it was just not what a lot of people were clamoring for. A few years later, in 2021, came this 41mm wide version that is much truer to the original. Four years later, the affordable dive watch market has gotten more competitive but the Bulova Devil Diver still holds its own, so let’s take a look at what makes this orange-dial diver feel like a slice of heaven for well under $1,000. Bulova Devil Diver Case: When the Bulova Devil Diver was first reintroduced back in 2018, there were quite a few gripes we all heard about the 44mm case being just way too big and not true to the original. Fortunately, the 2021 iteration brought the case back to the 41mm size of the original, a decision that won over the hearts of some jilted purists. To be fair, you do not have to be a vintage purist to see why a 41mm case will always be preferable to 44mm to a vast majority of contemporary buyers. Of course, the ~202 meters of water...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Jun 3, 2025

11 of the best triple register chronographs for timing perfection

Three sub-dials on a watch is the go-to configuration for any chronograph, so we wanted to list the best on the market today.The post 11 of the best triple register chronographs for timing perfection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Jun 3, 2025

First Look – The new Zenith Defy Extreme Diver and Defy Revival Diver Shadow Editions

One of the pillars of Zenith’s collection, the Defy is a descendant of late 1960s models known for their sturdy construction and angular design. Marketed as the Time-Safe, the collection included a full-fledged diving version, the Defy Plongeur (Ref. A3648 and its variations), a 600m water-resistant watch equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel. Following the […]

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Worn & Wound

Oris Hölstein Edition Jun 2, 2025

The Latest Oris Hölstein Edition is a Blacked Out ProPilot with a Glowing Surprise

For the sixth year in a row, Oris has launched a watch on the anniversary of their founding. The Hölstein Edition watches, which debut each year on June 1, are an opportunity for Oris to celebrate their heritage, release a watch that’s perhaps a little outside the box, and have some fun in the process. Previous Hölstein Editions include an Aquis diver with a bold purple dial, the revival of a classic complication, and, most recently, an unusual and very cool blacked out edition of their classic Divers Sixty-FIve. A throughline through these watches is the appearance of the Oris Bear, and for this year’s Hölstein Edition we get a particularly fun cameo from the brand’s mascot via a fully lumed dial. This year’s watch is a fresh take on the ProPilot, Oris’s contemporary, aviation inspired watch. For this limited edition (as with previous Hölstein Editions, this one is limited to 250 pieces) the stainless steel case has been given an aggressive black DLC treatment. It’s still, of course, unmistakably a ProPilot, with the hallmark fluted bezel and the gently curved 41mm case.  This is much more than a blacked out ProPilot, though. Oris is having a lot of fun with the dial, giving it a full lume treatment that appears white in the daylight and glows green in the dark when the luminescent material is activated. The Arabic numerals, dial text, and hands are all in matte black, which makes the dial easy to read in both well lit situations and, importantly, in the ...

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SJX Watches

F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary Jun 2, 2025

Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary

Although Francois-Paul Journe is best known for his inventions like the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and Resonance, not to mention the whole suite of Octa models, the Chronomètre Souverain was also arguably one of his brand’s foundational models. This year F.P. Journe is marking two decades of the watch with the Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary, which is essentially the original in new dress – the dial is now dark blue with applied gold numerals. Initial thoughts When the Chronomètre Souverain debuted in 2005 – the same year as the Breguet Tradition that was recently revived – it was novel and exciting; I remember the buzz amongst enthusiasts then. The F.P. Journe brand was barely six years old. The Chronomètre Souverain was then one of the rare few time-only watches from an independent watchmaker, and it had an all-new movement to boot. Today it is less exciting for sure, but the movement remains surprising novel for a basic calibre. As an entry-level watch, the Chronomètre Souverain remains excellent (even if availability is an obstacle). Although the Chronomètre Souverain is the simplest mechanical F.P. Journe watch, the cal. 1304 inside still retains the technical hallmarks of the brand, namely elegant, concise engineering and symmetry. Clever touches include the “invisible” gear train; only the regulator and barrels are visible on the main plate. From its conception, the cal. 1304 was conceived for chronometry. The utility and strength of t...

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Monochrome

Pequignet May 30, 2025

Hands-on – French Manufacture Pequignet Revisits the Royale Paris in a More Contemporary Key

French watchmaking is enjoying a renaissance today marked by the revival of extinct names and new micro-brands braving the arena. However, none of them can boast Pequignet’s claim to fame as “one of the only French Manufactures of Haute Horlogerie.” Following a period of trials and tribulations, Pequignet is back in business with a refreshed […]

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Worn & Wound

Fortis May 29, 2025

All the Panels of the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 and More!

The 2025 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco was one for the books. Thousands of attendees poured into the city’s vibrant Marina District for three days of hands-on horology, exclusive releases, and face time with the creators behind the brands we love. The energy was electric, and the programming only elevated what was already an unforgettable experience. Thanks to our sponsors, this year’s event reached new heights, with panels that brought depth, insight, and real-time connection to the forefront. Here are recordings of the full conversations that helped shape the weekend, plus some videos from our friends at Fortis and Bulova. Introducing the New Fortis Fliegers with the WERK 7 Manufacture Calibre The Fortis Flieger collection connects over 40 years of aviation heritage with the modern era. Redefined in collaboration with the Swiss Air Force, it stands as the most readable tool watch Fortis has ever crafted. This video goes into its new WERK 7 manufacture calibre with 70 hours of power reserve, as explained by Andreas Bentele, Marketing Manager at Fortis. Panel 1 – Making Watches for the Enthusiast vs. the Curious Worn & Wound’s Managing Editor Zach Kazan kicked off the programming with a lively conversation featuring Abingdon Mullin, CEO at Abingdon, Jonathan Ferrer, Designer & Founder at Brew, and Brandon Little, Founder & Designer at Artefkt. The panel explored how brands can speak to both hardcore collectors and casual newcomers-without diluting their voic...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Omega May 29, 2025

Omega Seamaster Green Diver 300m Review

How does a vintage-watch lover end up loving the green-dialed Omega Seamaster Diver 300M? Before I answer that, let's get a little philosophical. The deeper you get into this watch hobby, the more you start to understand what a “you watch" is. You build a collection, no matter how big or small, that either jibes with your style, your wrist size, or your general vibe. For example, I tend to gravitate towards old things or things tied to some sort of meaningful historical context. I also tend to like things that everyone else doesn’t. This tracks almost identically with my music taste (a lot of Beatles, Beach Boys, and Velvet Underground mixed with an intense love for ‘90s and 2000s indie rock). This is why the two-tone Rolex Datejust holds a special place in my heart, along with vintage Submariners, classic gold dress watches, and basically anything in the 36mm size arena. Finding a niche like this, however, does not mean that you don’t daydream of cosplaying as someone else — someone who could effortlessly pull off a 46mm diver, or an IWC Big Pilot, or even an Urwerk. It’s like those moments when a Gracie Abrams song appears in your music shuffle and you hesitate to change the song but you’re also afraid to maybe admit, “This is actually good?” Now, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M has been around since 1993 (or, if you want a full history of the Seamaster, you can read it here), and the contemporary iteration was initially released in 2018. This update mad...

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SJX Watches

May 29, 2025

Business News: Swiss Watch Exports to US Jump to Record High Before Tariffs

In a rush to beat American President Donald Trump’s tariffs, Swiss watch brands exported almost two months’ worth of inventory to the United States in April, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH), the trade body that publishes export statistics widely regarded as a proxy for the overall luxury watch business. Exports to the United States were up over 150% to CHF852 million, more than double the CHF405 million in March. For comparison, the next-largest export destination in April was Japan, with the corresponding figure a mere CHF176 million. Currently, Swiss imports to the US are subject to a 10% blanket tariff, however 31% tariff will be levied on Swiss imports after July 9, assuming nothing changes between then and now. Consumer confidence in the United States, while battered, is showing signs of recovery too, increasing for the first time in five months as measured by economic research institute The Conference Board. For several years now, the stalwart American market has buoyed Swiss watch exports, while demand in China and Hong Kong continue to slide, with April exports to the respective markets down 30.5% and 22.8%. Having started almost a decade ago after the start of an anti-corruption campaign, China’s luxury slowdown isn’t limited to watches, and is unlikely to reverse anytime soon. While some brands can shift inventory to other markets, others are already buying back inventory and cutting production. While less dramatic than in Chi...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Cartier May 28, 2025

Cartier Tank Louis Review

The Cartier Tank is one of the most thoroughly and exhaustively discussed watches of all time. At one point or another, the Cartier Tank has been worn by JFK, Princess Diana, Ralph Lauren, Michelle Obama, Muhammad Ali, Andy Warhol… the list really goes on and on. The first Cartier Tank was a prototype worn by none other than U.S. General "Black Jack" Pershing, who was the commander of the Allied forces in World War I. And while the collection was formally debuted with the Tank Normale, it would be the Cartier Tank Louis that would go on to be synonymous with the iconic rectangular-cased watch. Of course, there is so much history and lore to get lost in with the Tank and our own resident expert, Mark Bernardo, did a complete job of it, which you can read here. The Cartier Tank Louis is an Art Deco classic that has inspired countless imitators but, as with all great things, there is the real thing and then there’s everything else.  Cartier Tank Louis Case  The contemporary Cartier Tank Louis comes in a few different sizes, starting with the mini quartz which is 16.5mm wide, 6.2mm thick, and 24mm tall; to the small mechanical, which is 22mm wide, 6.8mm thick, and 29.5mm tall; to the size I will be reviewing here, which is the large manual-winding model, which is 25.5mm wide, 6.6mm thick, and 33.7mm tall. There is also the automatic Tank Louis that was introduced at this year’s edition of Watches & Wonders, which is 27.7mm wide, 8.18mm thick, and 38.1mm tall. When mos...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Rolex Introduces Three New Daytona May 28, 2025

Astronomical Exclusivity: Rolex Introduces Three New Daytona Watches With Meteorite Dials

This year, Rolex introduced no fewer than eight new Daytona references, but only one made it to the brand’s press room during Watches and Wonders. The seven other iterations remained hidden. Luckily, a visit to the brand’s Brussels offices revealed that 2025 marks the year Rolex introduces three new Daytona watches in three gold alloys […] Visit Astronomical Exclusivity: Rolex Introduces Three New Daytona Watches With Meteorite Dials to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound

Formex Introduces May 27, 2025

Formex Introduces the Second Generation of their Contemporary Take on the Classic Field Watch

Ever since its introduction, the Formex Field Automatic has been a favorite of enthusiasts in search of a modern twist on the tried and true field watch. At the same time, it also felt a little like an outlier in the Formex collection. For a brand that has built a reputation on clever manufacturing innovations, the Field was remarkably simple and, for Formex, pretty subdued. That’s the nature, though, of a field watch, and at the end of the day, Formex’s version of it has always been a well made, if rudimentary, take on the genre. For the Field Automatic Gen 2, Formex has mostly stuck with what worked with the first Field, but upped the complexity of the dial and, as you’d expect, added some new colors to the collection.  Available in three colors (Ice Blue, Coho Salmon, and Basalt Grey), the new dial design adds considerable depth and texture to the experience of the Formex Field. Each dial is constructed from two parts, a center section with a sunburst finish and a sloped minute track that gives the dial what the brand refers to as a “saucer-like” profile. Adding to the perception of depth on the new dials is an hour track positioned between the minute track and central section with a contrasting smooth texture and recessed, stenciled, lume filled numerals. Formex’s stated goal here is to create a three dimensional effect, something that we don’t normally associate with the typically “flat” dials of most field watches.  The case is unchanged from the ...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Tudor Black Bay 58? May 25, 2025

Is Now The Best Time To Buy A Used Tudor Black Bay 58?

The Tudor Black Bay 58 (formerly “Fifty-Eight”) was a smash hit when it debuted in 2018. At Watches and Wonders this year, the winning formula received an update. For that reason, now is as good a time as any to consider picking up one of the previous versions on the used market. Tudor’s Black Bay […] Visit Is Now The Best Time To Buy A Used Tudor Black Bay 58? to read the full article.

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Monochrome

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Series May 23, 2025

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Series

Is there anything new to say about the origins of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak? As the watch marked its 50th Anniversary in 2022, countless stories, insights, and personal accounts surfaced worldwide, deepening our understanding and enriching watchmaking culture. Yet to kick off today’s look into the ultra-thin 39mm “Jumbo” editions of this legendary series, […]

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F Fratello

Fratello

Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 May 23, 2025

Introducing: The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Celebrating A Century Of Longines Dual-Time Watches

The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 marks the 100th anniversary of the Swiss brand’s world-first dual-time wristwatch. You can’t say the rectangular timepiece from 1925 served as an inspiration from a design perspective, but it did in spirit (sorry about that). By adding a rose-gold-capped bezel insert with engraved numbers and indexes, the look […] Visit Introducing: The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Celebrating A Century Of Longines Dual-Time Watches to read the full article.

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Certina May 22, 2025

Certina DS Action Diver 38mm Review

The Certina DS Action Diver 38mm is a dive watch that has been largely off the radar of many U.S. watch enthusiasts until somewhat recently but is having a moment in our current era, in which sporty utility, striking colorways, value for money, and understated sizing reign supreme in the watch market. How much do you know about the DS Action Diver, including the meaning of “DS,” or about the not-so-famous but very historic Swiss watch brand that produced it? Read on, and you’ll be up to speed. Origins Of Certina Certina traces its roots to 1888, but it wasn’t called Certina back then. That year, a pair of Swiss brothers, Adolf and Alfred Kurth, set up a watchmaking workshop in an annex to their family home in the town of Grenchen (above), initially, to make movements and parts to sell  to other watch companies in the region. By 1906, however, they were making enough of their own complete timepieces that they introduced a brand name: Grana, which was a shortened version of the Latin word “Granatus,” referring to Grenchen. The early Grana watches found success, but for several years the Kurth brothers continued to also make and supply movements to other companies; the name “Certina” - another Latin-derived word, from “certus,” for “sure” or “certain” - began appearing on the company’s timepieces in the 1930s. The name, which was also easier to pronounce than “Grana” in more languages, was registered in 1933 and eventually became the c...

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F Fratello

Fratello

May 22, 2025

Hands-On With The Remarkable Selten Grand Feu Enamel Moonstone

If you have never heard of the brand Selten, you aren’t the only one. However, the brand founded by Leonardo Tsai has been around since 2017. The Hong Kong-based Selten founder comes from a family of dial makers, so he grew up around watches. After an initial stint in the world of finance, Tsai gave […] Visit Hands-On With The Remarkable Selten Grand Feu Enamel Moonstone to read the full article.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

May 21, 2025

Keep Calm and Continue Collecting: Advice for an Up and Down Watch Market

Now, it seems fairly evident that we are on the down slope of either a cyclical correction in prices or, if one takes a less optimistic view, a permanent loss of watch value as the mechanical timepiece industry faces a variety of challenges and potential disruptions. So what’s a collector to do?

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic May 19, 2025

First Look – The New Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph

The Captain Cook remains one of Rado’s most recognisable collections and is a name that resonates with enthusiasts and collectors alike. First introduced in 1962 as a compact 37mm diver rated to 200 metres, it marked the brand’s entry into serious tool watches. Since its revival, the Captain Cook line has evolved through various successful […]

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Blancpain May 18, 2025

Blancpain Swatch Review

The origin of Blancpain x Swatch is the story of two vastly different watchmakers. One is the oldest watch brand in the world, in existence since 1735, and renowned for making some of the most high-end luxury timepieces in the industry, regularly carrying prices of thousands or even tens of thousands of dollars. The other traces its origins only to the 1980s and made its name by producing plastic-cased, mass-market fashion watches for youthful consumers at average prices around $300. Through a convoluted series of events arising from watch-industry upheavals in the late 1990s and early 2000s, the newbie department-store brand bought the historical prestige brand, making it part of a modern-day Murderers Row of legacy watchmakers within what is now known as the Swatch Group. Both brands continued to do what they did best, and never did their efforts really intersect. Blancpain has adhered to its philosophy of never, in its almost-300-year history, making a watch with a quartz movement. Swatch, by contrast, was the brand that brought quartz into the mainstream of Swiss watchmaking in the first place, and still uses quartz movements in most (but not all) of its voluminous output of watches. But the watchword (no pun intended) of the 21st Century timepiece industry seems increasingly to be, Never Say Never. The Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch (Obviously) Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch "Mission On Earth" In 2022 came a scenario that was somehow both unthinkable and inevitable at the same ...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Boldr Conquer Limited Edition Chronograph May 16, 2025

Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop - A Limited Edition Watch for the 2025 Ride to Conquer Cancer

If you’ve been keeping up with our Ride to Conquer Cancer (RTCC) initiative, you already know the story: a two-day, 200km cycling challenge supporting the Princess Margaret Cancer Centre, and a team of riders rallying together to raise funds and awareness. You’ve seen the custom StrapHabit x Worn & Wound RTCC Strap (still available here, with 100% of proceeds donated). Today, we’re adding the next piece to the project – the BOLDR Conquer Limited Edition Chronograph. Designed by longtime friend and RTCC rider Matt Smith-Johnson and built by BOLDR, this special edition chronograph is limited to just 100 units, with $80 from every sale going directly to our RTCC fundraiser. This isn’t just a commemorative piece - it’s a fully capable tool watch with thoughtful details and purpose baked into every element. The BOLDR Conquer Limited Edition Chronograph retails for $399, and with every purchase, $80 goes directly to our RTCC fundraising campaign - no percentages, no fine print. Each watch ships with two straps: the StrapHabit sailcloth strap many of you already know and love, plus an additional green nylon strap fitted with custom titanium hardware. It’s a rugged, ready-for-anything combo that suits the spirit of the ride. This limited edition marks a first for BOLDR: the Venture case scaled up to 41mm, crafted in titanium for a perfect balance of durability and lightness. It measures 12.2mm thick, with a lug-to-lug of 46mm and a 20mm lug width, making it a sol...

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Fratello

Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 May 16, 2025

Introducing: The New Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035

Just under a month ago, Breguet unveiled its stunning new Souscription 2025 watch, a remarkable addition to the collection that commemorates the company’s 250th anniversary. Now, we’re excited to introduce the second piece in what seems to be an impressive lineup of watches to expect in 2025. Meet the newest Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035. […] Visit Introducing: The New Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 to read the full article.

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F Fratello

Fratello

Ming May 15, 2025

Hands-On With The New Ming 29.01 Midnight

When Ming offers to send you a watch to spend time with, you don’t say no, even if it’s something you have seen before. The Ming 29.01 Worldtimer hit the market almost exactly two years ago. This week, the model received an upgrade or, better yet, a line extension with the new Ming 29.01 Midnight. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Ming 29.01 Midnight to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound

Vacheron Constantin Launches May 13, 2025

A Minute Repeater You Can Take for a Swim: Vacheron Constantin Launches the Overseas Grand Complication Openface

Another day, another cool Vacheron Constantin release. Barely a month on from Watches & Wonders (where I will remind you, Vacheron dropped the most complicated wristwatch ever made), the iconic brand, currently celebrating its 270th anniversary, has released another high complication heater - a skeleton dial, perpetual calendar, minute repeater with tourbillon dressed up as a titanium Overseas. Coming into 2025, it was pretty clear to see that Vacheron was ready to make some noise. For one thing, the brand was (as I mentioned) celebrating its 270th birthday, something the marketing folks at Vacheron have not been shy about, but more than that, the brand has been on a pretty incredible run over the last few years. Even without the cover of an anniversary year, recent new releases from Vacheron Constantin have increasingly been greeted as objects of interest, both in a technical and cultural sense, and there’s a real feeling that someone at Vacheron HQ clearly knows what they’re doing. The new Overseas Grand Complication Openface is an objectively impressive offering. Measuring in at 44.5mm across and 13.1mm thick in grade 5 titanium (a material also seen in last year’s Overseas tourbillon) this latest Overseas does feature slightly reworked case proportions, with a narrower bracelet relative to its smaller siblings and what looks to me to be a slightly longer lug to lug and thinner bezel, relative to its admittedly larger case size. The watch is also water resistant...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Seiko Presage Classic Series “Edo May 13, 2025

First Look – The new 36mm Seiko Presage Classic Series “Edo Silk” Models

While the name Presage has been around since the 1960s, it remains one of these hidden gems that only Japan could enjoy, being one of the numerous JDM-only (Japan Domestic Market) ranges. Things changed in 2016, as Seiko decided to revamp the collection entirely and open it to the world. Since then, this collection has […]

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Zenith Platinum Ref 16516 May 9, 2025

Hands On: The Unique Rolex Daytona “Zenith” Platinum Ref. 16516

Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction that takes place on May 11 is a relatively compact affair. But the 124 lots includes notable highlights, with the top lot of the sale being the especially unique Rolex Daytona “Zenith” ref. 16516 in platinum with a pink mother-of-pearl dial. This watch is one of just four Daytonas combining the El Primero movement and platinum case – the only platinum specimens in the 16500-series Daytona – all of which were made at the behest of former Rolex chief executive Patrick Heiniger in 1999. Famous for being powered by the cal. 4030 derived from the Zenith El Primero, the 16500-series was the first-ever self-winding Daytona. The model was never commercially available in platinum; the four examples in platinum are truly unique. Moreover, each of the four are one-of-a-kind, each fitted with a different dial in exotic materials. Sotheby’s sold the prior three examples, starting with black mother-of-pearl in 2018, lapis lazuli in 2020, and turquoise in 2021. While those three featured applied Arabic numbers, this example has diamond hour markers. Initial thoughts The unique nature of this Daytona is unquestionable. Amongst automatic Daytonas this ranks amongst the rarest and most valuable. Two of its platinum siblings sold for over US$3 million each, making them the priciest modern-day Daytonas. Of the four platinum Daytonas, however, this example is the most paradoxical. It’s the most unusual in having diamond indices, but also the most...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Blancpain May 8, 2025

This is the Company Quietly Making the Rubber Straps for Nearly Every Brand in the Industry

Rubber straps are relatively new in the centuries-old history of wristwatches, and their widespread popularity is even more recent. Like many elements of watchmaking, rubber straps first came into use for a specific utilitarian purpose, and now-in a world that no longer needs watches as practical tools-rubber straps no longer need to be purely functional. They can simply be a fashion statement.  The first rubber straps appeared in the 1960s throughout the catalogs of brands like Rolex, Tudor, IWC, and Blancpain. Fittingly, these rubber straps were perfect for sport models like dive watches thanks to their lightweight build, durability, and resistance to the elements. Still, it would be another three decades before the rubber strap would transform from an occasional companion for a tool watch to a prominent bracelet material seen across styles and brands at all price points.  Hublot was at the forefront of shifting the perception and prevalence of the rubber strap. In 1980, the brand debuted the material in its catalog in a surprising way. The Classic Original (later revived as the Classic Fusion) featured Hublot’s signature porthole shaped case rendered in polished and brushed gold, complete with a black rubber strap, perfectly complementing the model’s black dial. The watch was not only the brand’s first to showcase a rubber strap but also the first luxury wristwatch ever to combine a rubber strap with a precious metal case as opposed to stainless steel. The d...

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