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Monochrome
Let’s get something out of the way immediately: yes, it is brightly coloured, and yes, it isn’t the easiest watch to acquire. Right, let’s now be more serious about Kurono Tokyo and its latest watch, the Vermilion Chronograph. What is Kurono? Well, that’s the accessible brand of independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, a bit like so-called […]
Fratello
Before I start this article, there’s something I must confess: I do not currently have a favorite Rolex Datejust. It’s not because I don’t like the watch or because I’ve tried and failed to find one - quite the opposite. If I can’t quickly name my favorite reference of this octogenarian Rolex model, it’s simply […] Visit Selection By Elimination - How I Found The Perfect Rolex Datejust to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Representing a new era for the Roger Dubuis manufacture, the Excalibur Spider Flyback is an aggressively styled, motorsports-themed chronograph – boasting the impressive, high-spec RD780 movement with some unusual tricks up its sleeve, including an inclined balance. While the Excalibur Spider Flyback harkens back to the brand’s early aspirations in terms of movement construction and ambition, it diverges entirely in style with its supercar-inspired lines. Limited to 88 examples in pink gold, it debuted at Monterey Car Week – Roger Dubuis is a partner of Lamborghini – this variant in pink gold and blackened titanium is a new iteration of a model originally available in carbon composite. The RD780 Initial Thoughts In its past life, Roger Dubuis raised a menagerie of ambitious – perhaps overambitious – movements. While the brand thinned the herd after the 2008 financial crisis, some of that spirit lives on inside the Excalibur Spider Flyback. It attempts the dial-movement integration and three dimensionality mastered by some independent watchmakers like Greubel Forsey, though the construction is still fairly traditional, leading to some lost opportunities. The calibre is impressive – especially for a brand owned by a luxury group – but could be better. For example, the minutes counter could be inclined by 12° to mirror the balance and the imitation barrel bridge to be more convincing in terms of style and symmetry. With its over-the-top-style, the Richard Mil...
Worn & Wound
It’s perhaps a little surprising that it’s taken this long for Farer to enter the integrated bracelet sports watch scene. Not because the brand seems like a particularly likely prism through which to interpret the genre, but because the integrated bracelet sports watch has simply become a category unto itself over these last few years, and a brand that commits to variety of any kind needs to have one in their catalog, just as they need to have a diver, a dress watch, and so forth. The fact that so many small brands have carved out space in their collections for what was once a fairly niche and, if we’re being honest, not even very desirable style of watch says a lot about the state of the watch industry, more in fact than the purview of this article, which is to introduce the new Farer Integra lineup. The Integra is what Farer calls their “urban sports watch,” a characterization that has always confused me when used by other brands, and is even a bit stranger when you realize one of these watches has a malachite dial, and another in mother of pearl. Farer is a brand whose aesthetic is borrowed from nautical themes, car culture, vintage watch design, and other sources, so their take on “urban” was always going to be filtered through a very particular sensibility. In any case, it makes me wonder why any brand feels they need to fill these invented micro-niches. Can’t we just call it an integrated bracelet sports watch? Or a sports watch? We all kind of know w...
Monochrome
Micromilspec may be new to some enthusiasts, but in professional circles, the Oslo-based brand is already trusted. Founded by Henrik Rye with designer Anders Drage and a serving Norwegian Army member, the company built its reputation on custom watches co-designed with military units worldwide. From naval squadrons to combat battalions, even Norway’s King’s Guard, over […]
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Time+Tide
Rolex's Oysterflex is one of the most comfortable rubber straps in the business... But pairing it with a Glidelock clasp changed the game.The post The subtle innovation that turned Rolex’s first rubber strap into a game changer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
There is something you must know about me: I am not a photographer. I have no idea what an aperture is and I will undoubtedly equate everything you tell me about a specific camera to what my iPhone can do. This is just how it is. But earlier this summer, while in Germany to celebrate the centenary of the Leica I, I found myself equal parts humbled and educated on the sheer passion photographers have for their craft. In some ways, my invitation to Leica’s HQ was a bit like Willy Wonka’s Golden Ticket. In the U.S., only four journalists attended the events - myself being one of them. And while you may be confused why the hell I got the invite…don’t worry, dear Reader, I was, too. Sure, I’ve always liked the idea of photography and I’m drawn to the analogue world that a point-and-shoot camera can draw up. I have a few Slim Aarons prints in my writing studio and a pile of photography books I’ve never flipped through in my life, but I like knowing I could, if the mood were to strike. So when I accepted my invitation, I was under the (very mistaken) pretense that I could walk the walk as much as I’ve talked the talk now and then. Photo courtesy Leica But when you find yourself surrounded by 800 professional photographers, everything is a little clearer. I was out of my element, out of my league, and tried desperately to get an education on Leicas - and fast. It’s one thing to feel like a fraud, but it’s another thing entirely to let others in on my litt...
Deployant
We visited Chronode, an independent complications specialist for the watchmaking industry. Here we chatted with Jean-François Mojon, the Founder and Chief.
Monochrome
Roger Dubuis introduced the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph in 2023, debuting it in a lightweight carbon case inspired by supercar engineering and embodying the brand’s vision of hyper horology – bold, expressive, and technically advanced watchmaking. Also in 2023, the Excalibur Spider Revuelto Flyback Chronograph was unveiled alongside the launch of the actual Lamborghini Revuelto. […]
Fratello
The chronograph and dive bezel are, I would argue, two of the most useful horological “bonuses” available to us watch consumers. Essentially, both do the same thing - measure elapsed time. Technically, there’s much more that each can do, but that is the function they share. The way they measure elapsed time, however, is different, […] Visit The Chronograph Vs. The Dive Bezel - Which One Is For You? to read the full article.
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Fratello
In a fast-paced world, slow and steady progress is not often the chosen growth path for small watch brands. However, Traska has chosen this path and, as a result, has cultivated a passionate and dedicated following that loves the brand and its strategy. I have been keeping an eye on Traska over the past couple […] Visit Hands-On: The Traska Commuter 38 - A Daily Driver That Leaves A Lasting Impression to read the full article.
Time+Tide
We launched Sher watches in our London Studio with the aim of getting kids reading the time on an analogue watch. The post Sher watches gets kids telling the time at the London Studio appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Since its debut in 2016, the successful Aikon series by Maurice Lacroix has become the brand’s best seller. The collection has included chronographs, has embraced stainless steel, titanium, bronze and ceramic, exploring textures and finishes that give each model its own personality. We’ve seen the robust Aikon Venturer, the openworked Aikon Skeleton, and even playful […]
Fratello
We know Oris as a watchmaking company dedicated to reducing its environmental impact and supporting good causes around the globe. Today, I got a chance to go hands-on with the brand’s latest effort in that spirit. This is the Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II. This 2,000-piece limited edition supports the Billion Oyster […] Visit Hands-On With The New Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II to read the full article.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie.’s only dive watch returns as the Pioneer “Elements of Time”, the result of an unexpected, but not unprecedented, collaboration with Azuki, an anime-inspired NFT, and American retailer The 1916 Company. Unsurprisingly given the digital nature of the collaboration, the watches will only be available online via raffle from Azuki. Representing the four elements of earth, lightning, fire and water, Elements of Time features engraved fumé dials in four colourways. Each is limited to 24 watches in Pioneer Centre Seconds format, along with one unique Pioneer tourbillon per colour. All variants are titanium, matched with bracelet with the amenities you’d expect from a diver, including a micro-adjust clasp. Initial Thoughts While a new Pioneer with a rotating bezel would normally be a major release, you won’t find Elements of Time on Moser’s website. That’s because it’s a collaboration with Azuki, a non-fungible token (NFT). Azuki is Japanese for “red bean”, but Azuki is basically anime-style digital art on the blockchain. But these are real watches – they can be collected at The 1916 Company’s physical stores – and more notably, sport of the most interesting fumé dials from Moser in a while. This isn’t Moser’s first foray into the Web 3.0 world. Back in 2022, the brand launched the Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis, a watch that was essentially a physical QR code. The timing wasn’t the best as it debuted just as the NFT bubble popped...
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Hodinkee
The watch that made it to the Moon has touched down in Florida.
Teddy Baldassarre
While Switzerland is regarded today as the world leader of watchmaking, Great Britain can lay claim to a wealth of horological milestones throughout its history as well. From Thomas Mudge’s development of the lever escapement in 1755 to John Harrison’s invention of the marine chronometer in 1759 to the innovations of clockmaker Thomas Tompion and his protegé George Graham in the areas of science and astronomy, England was an undisputed leader in timekeeping throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. The 20th century brought the decline of the British Empire and, with it, British watchmaking, as nations like Switzerland, Germany, and (for a while) the United States stepped in with modern mass-production techniques while the Brits held fast to traditional, artisanal methods. The United Kingdom essentially ceased being a major producer of timepieces by the end of World War II, but as the 21st Century dawned, a handful of entrepreneurial Britons have made great strides in bringing high-end watchmaking back to their native land, establishing new brands - and in some cases, resurrecting old ones - to make watches that appeal to today’s discerning enthusiasts in the U.K. and across the world. Whether the focus is military-style tool watches, avant-garde complications at approachable prices, or ultra-high-end pieces for well-heeled collectors, each brand boasts an identity that is proudly British and at the same time distinct from its peers. Here are 15 British watch bran...
Worn & Wound
Back in 2022, we brought you a story on the first watch Oris released to celebrate their partnership with the Billion Oyster Project. That particular Aquis was a real head turner, using mother of pearl in a unique fashion to create a dial meant to conjure the Hudson River. But the more interesting story then, as it is now as Oris releases the long awaited follow up piece, is the one about the Swiss brand’s interest in conservation, and the mission of the Billion Oyster Project. If you need a refresher, the Billion Oyster Project exists to restore New York Harbor’s oyster reefs, and to educate the public on the inherent benefits of this endeavor. A fully grown oyster is, somewhat amazingly, able to filter as much as 50 gallons of water per day. Reintroducing oysters (a billion of them!) into New York waterways has the potential to dramatically clean up those waters in a sustainable and natural way. The founders of the Billion Oyster Project, Murray Fisher and Pete Malinowski, say that they’ve already introduced 150 million oysters into the harbor. They started in 2014, so if you do the math, there’s still plenty of work to be done to get to that billion number, but it’s far from an impossible goal. One of the charms of the Billion Oyster Project is that it is by its very nature a group effort – the organization has a lot of help, and enlists public schools, volunteers, and occasionally a Swiss watch brand to lend a hand. Every time they get in the harbor and a...
Time+Tide
Did you know an adult oyster is said to be capable of filtering fifty gallons of water a day?The post Oris and the Billion Oyster Project are back with a new New York Harbor limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Louis Erard has spent the past few years building a reputation as the brand that dares to bring métiers d’art to a broader audience. Where traditional crafts are usually reserved for expensive timepieces, Louis Erard has worked to democratise them, presenting limited series in grand feu enamel, hand-guilloché, and even wood marquetry. Each of these […]
Video
Monochrome
When Gerd-Rüdiger Lang (1943–2023) founded Chronoswiss in 1983, his mission was to safeguard and advance mechanical watchmaking at a time when quartz technology threatened to eclipse traditional horology. A master watchmaker, Lang became renowned for pioneering features now considered staples of fine watchmaking, and the openworked mechanical chronograph. In 1995, Chronoswiss launched the Opus, the […]
Worn & Wound
To me, a Timex watch is like an automatic Honda Civic; a taste of bigger and better fun that offers a lot of enjoyment on its own, even without a manual transmission and turbocharger. My first analog watch was a Timex Weekender, and it opened my eyes to the world of timepieces in a way that even a digital Casio couldn’t. So whenever the iconic budget brand announces something out of their normal range of basic watches, I get excited. Will it be my next easy recommendation to a young watch newbie, or “just another Timex”? It all depends on execution and, most crucially, price range. With that in mind, let’s take a look at two new additions to the Timex Marlin range: the Jet Quartz Chronograph, and GMT. First, the Jet Quartz Chronograph. Two references are available, both with contrasting subdials at the 3 and 6 o’clock positions, and a date window at 12. The TW2Y4600 sports a silver dial with black subdials, while the TW2Y4700 swaps in a brown dial and white subdials. Both feature a 40mm recycled stainless steel case with pushers at 2 and 4, and a knurled crown. Strap options differ, though, as the silver dial model stays secured via a matching stainless steel 6-link bracelet, while the brown dial is paired with an obsidian leather strap with quick-release spring bars. Inside both is a quartz movement and the cases are water resistant up to 50 meters; a domed Hesalite crystal and screwed-on case back with “Jet” text cap off the 1960s look of the watch. It’...
Fratello
Thirty years ago, Chronoswiss founder Gerd Rüdiger Lang created a watch that earned itself a place in the history books. The 1995 38mm Opus CH 7523 was the first serially produced self-winding skeletonized chronograph. The watch was powered by a heavily modified Valjoux 7750 movement and was voted “Watch of the Year” by the readers […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Purple Rain to read the full article.
Time+Tide
A purple CVD case, skeletonised dial and UV-reactive strap make this 30-piece limited edition chrono pretty hard to miss.The post Chronoswiss celebrates the 30th anniversary of their Opus chronograph with a wild Purple Rain limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Often behind every watch brand’s marketing and image is an overarching influence that can be subtle or explicit. For Patek Philippe, that influence reveals a long arc of intention, carried across centuries, shaped by consistency, and reinforced through a remarkable alignment between product and message. From its early days in royal courts to modern-day exhibitions in New York and Shanghai, the company has approached communication as a reflection of its philosophy. Over nearly two centuries, Patek Philippe has maintained a consistent approach to communication – measured, stable, and aligned with the brand’s long-term perspective. The manner of Patek Philippe telling its own story is perhaps as interesting as its watches. We trace the way in which Patek Philippe has communicated over time, from introducing itself to the mind of the client, to adapting to a changing world, all while remaining aligned with its values. We also examine the brand’s choices in language and imagery, looking in particular to its early references to inheritance, which evolved into the familiar campaign that continued across decades. Launched in 2025, but perhaps enjoyed by many generations to come Foundations and Royal Recognition (1839–1877) When Patek Philippe was founded in 1839, the idea of advertising a luxury watch was almost nonexistent. Most manufacturers relied on trade reputation, medals at international exhibitions, and word-of-mouth among wealthy clientele. In contrast to today,...
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