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Florentine Ariosto Jones

Boston watchmaker who founded the International Watch Company in Schaffhausen (1868).
Patek Philippe Introduces the Jewelled Ref. 5271 with Sapphires or Rubies SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Nov 17, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Jewelled Ref. 5271 with Sapphires or Rubies

Patek Philippe has introduced two variants of its classic paired complication: the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5271/11P and Ref. 5271/12P are set with blue sapphires and rubies respectively, with each having a graduated finish dial in a matching colour. Both new references retain the look and feel of the ref. 5270 but certainly pack a punch with their flamboyant jewelled cases. The first serially-produced gem-set variants of the reference in 11 years, the new pair joins the existing diamond-set ref. 5271P as the bling versions of Patek Philippe’s archetypal complication. Initial thoughts Much of the excitement over new releases from Patek Philippe tend to be centred on its sports watches nowadays but that’s not all that the brand has been doing. At Watches & Wonders in March, the brand launched a new version of the longstanding ref. 5270 that featured a smoked green dial that was widely applauded (no doubt in part due to the current popularity of the colour). But the recent launches left me wondering, what else can Patek Philippe do to up its game beyond its mastery of complications? Well, now we have an answer. In terms of the design, the new ref. 5271s retain the classic layout and distinctive feel of the perpetual calendar chronographs that the brand is known for, but with a few adjustments to the dial that give it a more contemporary feel. And then the coloured gemstones transform a watch that is ordinarily sedate into something over the top. While gem-se...

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15 Rugged Watches, From Under $300 to $10,000+ Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 23, 2022

15 Rugged Watches, From Under $300 to $10,000+

Some occasions call for a suit, some for jeans, khakis, and t-shirts. Some events demand a dressy watch, others a tough, rugged watch that can take a beating. If the latter style of timepiece is what you're in the market for lately, check out our list of 15 tough, rugged watches (in ascending order of price) that not only boast impressive levels of functionality, reliability, and resistance to extreme depths, temperatures, and shocks, but also look very stylish on the wrist.  Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Diver 200m Price: $280, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 11.6mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Citizen Eco-Drive E168  Citizen unveiled its Promaster line of professional-grade sports watches in 1989 and its Promaster Diver models - equipped with the Japanese brand’s proprietary Eco-Drive technology, which uses light to perpetually charge the movement - have proven to be among the most popular of Citizen’s vast portfolio of timepieces. The 44mm steel case features a 60-click rotating bezel made of aluminum (here in maritime blue) and a screw-down crown positioned at 4 o’clock. The blue dial sports wide hands and large applied hour markers, all generously lumed for underwater visibility, and a date window at 4 o’clock. The prominent minute hand with its orange detailing adds another layer of contrast, and hence legibility, to the dial. The Eco-Drive movement offers six months of power on a full charge and boasts an accuracy of ...

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Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary “Sector” Dial SJX Watches
Casio n Jul 11, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary “Sector” Dial

A venerable retailer of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking, Shellman marks its 50th year in business. Still in its landmark Ginza store that curiously sits slightly below street level, the Tokyo retailer has announced a series of one-off and limited edition watches to mark the occasion. The latest commemorative edition is a pair from Habring², the Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary and Chrono-Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary, both featuring a discreet champagne-tone sector dial with thoughtful details. The flagship Shellman store in Tokyo’s Ginza district Initial thoughts Habring² offers honest quality and solid engineering, which makes it tangible qualities impeachable, especially in its price segment. So the appeal of a specific Habring² watch boils down to its specific design. While sector dials are common today, perhaps too common, Shellman was a pioneer in this type of design, having debuted its first Habring² with a sector dial in 2017, well before the style became a fad. For that reason, these anniversary watches have a stronger resonance than the average sector dial. The time-only And the two are also intrinsically appealing because of their careful design. At a distance both appear to be typical “sector” dials – attractive but more of the same. Up close, however, the dial designs are both smartly executed with strong attention to detail. The leaf-shape hands, for instance, are a familiar shape, but here they are heavier than usual, giving the ...

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The Tissot PRX Gold Quartz brings the ’70s alive on your wrist Time+Tide
Tissot PRX Gold Quartz brings Jun 26, 2022

The Tissot PRX Gold Quartz brings the ’70s alive on your wrist

Tissot knew exactly what they were doing when they kickstarted the budget-friendly integrated bracelet trend with the PRX. Looking at one instantly throws your mind back to the 1970s, regardless of whether you were actually alive then or not. Between the flared jeans and ABBA, one thing the 1970s had was an appreciation for gaudy … ContinuedThe post The Tissot PRX Gold Quartz brings the ’70s alive on your wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend Time+Tide
Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Jun 2, 2022

INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend

The first rule of half-arsed journalism is that if something happens twice it’s a coincidence and if it happens three times then it’s a trend. On that basis the theme of the past week has been bronze-cased watches with blue dials. Along came the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Midnight Blue, followed in quick succession with the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Time Only SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils Jan 25, 2022

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Time Only

While a pioneer in luxury-sports watches with its gold-meets-rubber models of the 1980s, Hublot is a relatively new arrival to the world of luxury-sports watches with an integrated bracelet – with its opening act being the flyback chronograph of 2020. Now a simple, fuss-free version joins the line up. At LVMH Watch Week 2022 the brand has taken the covers off the Big Bang Integral Time Only, which has an integrated bracelet naturally, but also is the most compact men’s Big Bang to date at 40 mm wide. And in typical Hublot style, the new Time Only is available in a trio of materials, none of which is steel but instead titanium, ceramic, or yellow gold. Initial thoughts It’s great to see Hublot adapt its products to accommodate demand for small(er) watches, especially since the Big Bang has always been, well, big. The trimmer size of the Time Only brings it closer to the dimensions of the traditional luxury-sports watches, which are essentially elaborate bracelets that tell time. Despite its uncharacteristically smaller proportions, the new Time Only is still very much a Hublot. It manages to capture the Hublot style in both design and materials, while avoiding some of the cliches of the integrated-sports watch category, namely a patterned dial or a case and bracelet in steel. The most obvious difference between the Time Only and the typical integrated-bracelet sport watch is the dial. Doing away with the dial altogether and exposing the movement underneath leaves it ...

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British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet It’s no secret Jul 12, 2021

British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet

It’s no secret that British rapper Dave loves his timepieces, indeed he’s become a bit of a Time+Tide favourite when it comes to watch spotting. Ahead of his hugely anticipated sophomore album We’re All Alone in This Together, the lyrical genius took to his Instagram stories this week to announce the first single dropping would … ContinuedThe post British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Wiz Khalifa versus Mia Khalifa – who wears Rolex best? Time+Tide
Rolex best? Let’s get ready Jul 7, 2021

Wiz Khalifa versus Mia Khalifa – who wears Rolex best?

Let’s get ready to rumble in this horological battle with Rolex as the weapon of choice. In one corner, wearing his customary skinny jeans is Wiz Khalifa. The rap superstar has always been open about enjoying blinged-out wristwear. “So many rocks up in my watch I can’t tell what the time is,” he happily admitted … ContinuedThe post Wiz Khalifa versus Mia Khalifa – who wears Rolex best? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Rapper Travis Scott’s watch collection is a masterclass in how to spend it when you got it Time+Tide
Jun 3, 2021

Rapper Travis Scott’s watch collection is a masterclass in how to spend it when you got it

When you become a world famous recording artist, you stand to make a ton of money and inevitably acquire a drool-worthy collection of luxury goods. Of course, here at Time+Tide we are all about watches. Recently we have explored watches worn by Cardi B, Nick Jonas, Usher, and more, but for today’s session of celebrity … ContinuedThe post Rapper Travis Scott’s watch collection is a masterclass in how to spend it when you got it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Piaget Polo Skeleton SJX Watches
Piaget Polo Skeleton Launched earlier Jun 2, 2021

Up Close: Piaget Polo Skeleton

Launched earlier this year as the latest addition to Piaget’s compact Polo S line up, the Piaget Polo Skeleton joins a crowded field of luxury-sports watches. But it is a novel enough proposition – being a skeletonised, automatic sports watch – to make it notable. And it helps that the Polo Skeleton is exceptionally slim, thin enough that it feels similar to Piaget’s Altiplano dress watches on the wrist. Initial thoughts Piaget loaned me a Polo Skeleton in blue for a couple of days, and two features stood out: its slimness and how well it wore (save for the clasp buttons, more on that below). The Polo Skeleton is wide but flat, and sits elegantly on the wrist. Even though the bracelet is relatively thick compared to the case, that is only apparently when the watch is off the wrist. On the wrist the bracelet pairs well with the case, despite not being an integrated design. Having a skeletonised movement with coloured bridges give the Polo Skeleton a distinct look. This contrasts with the standard time-only Polo S, especially with its linear-pattern dial, that does admittedly bring to mind other luxury-sports watches. At the same time, the finishing and style of the cal. 1200S in the Polo Skeleton bring depth and texture to the face, while also injecting a bit of movement with the rotor and balance wheel. The Polo Skeleton is offered in two guises – blue or grey treatment for the movement – and the blue is the more striking by far. It is also more legible due to ...

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The new adventures of the Cartier Tank include a solar-powered watch Time+Tide
Cartier Tank include May 3, 2021

The new adventures of the Cartier Tank include a solar-powered watch

One mark of a great dress watch is to what extent it can be dressed up or down, and Cartier’s Tank design is surely one of the best examples. Although undoubtedly formal, there’s something about the clean rectangular motifs that work just as well contrasting with jeans and a t-shirt as it does with a … ContinuedThe post The new adventures of the Cartier Tank include a solar-powered watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Ochs und Junior Introduces the Calendario Cent’anni SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin like Apr 23, 2021

Ochs und Junior Introduces the Calendario Cent’anni

Founded by watchmaking genius Ludwig Oechslin, best known for the inventive timepieces he created for Ulysse Nardin like the Freak and Trilogy of Time, Ochs und Junior specialises in brilliantly simple complications that are minimalist, functional, and idiosyncratic in style. Dr Oechslin is best known for his calendar complications, particularly the Perpetual Ludwig he invented for Ulysse Nardin, which remains the centrepiece of his latest wristwatch, the Calendario Cent’anni. Italian for “hundred-year calendar”, the Calendario Cent’Anni (CCA) will indicate the calendar till the end of this century, like most other perpetual calendar watches, but it is executed in Ochs und Junior’s inimitable style. And while the CCA retains the Ochs und Junior look, it will be offered in three fixed variations (each named after a Roman numeral), instead of being endlessly customisable as the first-generation Ochs und Junior perpetual calendar was. From left: CCA III, II and I Initial thoughts Perpetual calendars were once an expensive complication, but the proliferation of mass-produced as well as unconventional, streamlined calendar mechanisms have brought about many affordable perpetual calendars, with the cheapest starting at around US$9,000. But few perpetual calendar watches are as interesting as Dr Oechslin’s invention. While it does cost more than the most affordable perpetuals with a retail price of about US$16,600, the CCA is truly innovative. Dr Oechlin’s perpetu...

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Grand Seiko – The Nature of Time Revolution
Grand Seiko Mar 15, 2021

Grand Seiko – The Nature of Time

As its parent company Seiko Watch Corporation celebrates 140 years in the watchmaking business, Grand Seiko, itself now over 60 years old, joins in the family celebrations with a unique take on nature’s elements surrounding its watchmaking studios .Trees, water, the sky and the subtle shifts between seasons all have been used as inspiration for the year ahead for the undisputed king of Japanese horology…

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Grand Seiko Introduces the Heritage Hi-Beat “White Birch” SLGH005 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Feb 12, 2021

Grand Seiko Introduces the Heritage Hi-Beat “White Birch” SLGH005

Originally as 60th anniversary limited editions in gold and then steel, the Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat now joins the catalogue as a regular-production model – the Heritage Hi-Beat “White Birch” SLGH005. Notably, despite being a standard model, the SLGH005 has a fancy, patterned dial. As is typical of Grand Seiko, the dial is inspired by the local landscape – the striated motif on the dial takes inspiration from the forest of white birch, or shirakaba (白樺), that grows around the brand’s recently-opened workshop in Shizukuishi, located in the northernmost province of Iwate. Initial thoughts The SLGH005 is a handsome watch with a clean design that’s livened by the dial pattern. I’ve yet to see this in the metal, but Grand Seiko’s stamped dial patterns are usually attractive and always well done, and I expect this to be the same. In fact, this is arguably more appealing than the earlier limited-edition version, even though the watch is essentially identical. The monochromatic colour – save for the blued steel seconds hand – has a light, clean look, which is helped by the reduced text on the dial; the designers did away with “automatic” at six o’clock. Priced at US$9,100, the SLGH005 is fairly priced, costing a little less than the launch limited edition. It is, however, an example of the steadily rising price of the average Grand Seiko. They remain, by and large, reasonable buys, but no longer the strong value propositions in the past. Wood g...

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HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Dec 3, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero

The definition of an everyday watch is one that doesn’t excel in any one particular area. It has to do everything, from jeans and hoodies, to bow ties and dinner jackets, and it has to do them all well. It needs to be noticeable yet invisible, characterful but discreet, and the Baume & Mercier Clifton … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze Time+Tide
Yema Oct 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze

The Yema Superman is a strong vintage diver, with two selling points that should be a wake-up call for other brands, starting with an obvious and rather rhetorical question: When you go out to buy a pair of jeans with your slimmer and shorter mate (speaking for myself here), do you buy the exact same … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MICRO MONDAYS: Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches? Read this and you will wonder no more Time+Tide
Sep 6, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches? Read this and you will wonder no more

Last year, self-taught watchmaking artisan and creative genius Hajime Asaoka decided he wanted to launch a more accessible range of watches to satiate those who loved his creations but could not afford them. The bespoke watches made under Hajime Asaoka’s name start at around $40,000 USD and take a year or more to produce. Kurono … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches? Read this and you will wonder no more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Pandemic Truths – Shellman’s Yasuhiro Kojima SJX Watches
Aug 3, 2020

Pandemic Truths – Shellman’s Yasuhiro Kojima

One of the world’s most venerable retailers of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking, Shellman in Ginza (pictured above) has long been a destination for horologically-inclined visitors to Tokyo. Shellman was founded in 1971 by Yoshi Isogai – the company name is a play on his last name, which loosely translates as “beach shellfish” – and is probably best known as the Japanese agent for Philippe Dufour and selling over half of the 200 first-run Simplicity watches. Two years ago Shellman was acquired by Komehyo, a publicly-listed merchant that has taken the business of selling pre-owned luxury goods to a whole new level with spacious, sharply-appointed stores offering items in stellar condition. Shellman is now the specialist-watch retail division of Komehyo, with six stores in Tokyo – including outposts in the city’s most prestigious department stores – and a diverse stable of independent watch brands, including Atelier de Chronometrie, Habring2, and Kudoke. It’s run by Yasuhiro Kojima, a 15-year veteran of Komehyo’s watch department who joined Shellman shortly after the acquisition. We caught up with Mr Kojima recently to discuss the state of the business, especially in light of the pandemic. Yasuhiro Kojima. Photo – Shellman The interview has been edited for clarity and length. What does your reopening look like? We take basic measures such as hand sanitisation before entering the store, measuring body temperature when entering the store, i...

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