415 articles · 14 videos found · page 13 of 15
Quill & Pad
On one path stands Blancpain, a brand wrapped in the romance of antiquity and contemporary defiance. On the other path stands Jaeger-LeCoultre, the intellectual powerhouse frequently revered as the watchmaker of watchmakers. Which do you choose? The post Clash of the Titans: A Comprehensive Guide to Blancpain vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre appeared first on Quill & Pad.
Fratello
You’re familiar with Max Büsser and his friends. The creations MB&F; produces are incredible, wondrous, and imaginative, but they’re also out of reach for the majority of watch enthusiasts. Let me introduce you to Schaefer & Companions, a brand recently founded in Le Locle that positions itself as an artistic platform. Christophe Schaefer, the brand’s […] Visit Introducing: Schaefer & Companions Solune Grand Art Marqueterie - Straw You Can Actually Clutch At to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Usually not considered a watchmaking hotspot, Spain has some hidden horological gems.The post 6 of the best Spanish watch brands from Galicia to Catalonia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F; LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone. When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...
SJX Watches
Having already explained the more traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling), we now look forward to the more modern vertical clutch. This is found in some of the most famous chronographs in contemporary watchmaking, including the Rolex Daytona with the cal. 4131 (pictured above), Patek Philippe Nautilus with the CH 28-520, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph with the cal. 4401. Arguably the most advanced type of chronograph coupling mechanism, the vertical clutch as it is known today was debuted in 1969 by Seiko in the 6139 chronograph. But the concept can be found in late 19th century pocket watches, and even the inexpensive Pierce Chronographe of the 1930s. Today it is practically the default choice for new chronograph constructions. Equipped with the vertical clutch, the Patek Philippe CH 28-520 in the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A Like its horizontal counterpart, the vertical clutch serves as the mechanical link between the chronograph mechanism and the going train of a movement, allowing power to flow from the going train to the chronograph, which then allows the chronograph to run. While it fulfils the same function, a vertical clutch works differently from the horizontal equivalent, a distinction that comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. How it works A chronograph vertical clutch is similar to the clutch found in the manual transmission of some automobiles. The clutch of an automobile enables the intermittent connec...
SJX Watches
The chronograph is an on-demand complication, as its operation requires the user to active the function. As such, the chronograph, or more accurately a stopwatch, engages selectively with the going train of the watch. The chronograph wheel couples with the going train when engaged and uncouples when stopped or reset. The mechanism which makes this selective engagement possible is the clutch. Arguably the most classical form of clutch is the horizontal clutch, also known as a lateral coupling. As suggested by the name, the coupling action takes place horizontally, with the clutch arm moving on a plane parallel to the movement. Because the mechanism is spread out laterally, it results in an intricate display of mechanics, which is one reason why the lateral coupling is desired by many enthusiasts. A eminently classical chronograph construction in a mid-20th century Patek Philippe ref. 530 How it works The fundamentals of the horizontal clutch are outlined in Figs. 1 and 2. Gear R1 is fixed to the seconds’ mobile, on the same axis, above the going train. The same mobile conveys the turning motion from the going train, and may carry the small seconds hand on the dial side. The clutch arm pivots on the same axis as R1 and carries an intermediary clutch wheel R2. In Fig. 1 the column wheel or cam (not shown) keeps the clutch uncoupled with the intermediary wheel R2 idling. In other words R2 is turning but not driving anything. Fig 1. Image – Patek Philippe patent EP1437...
![Cartier Introduces the Clash [Un]limited](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Cartier-Clash-Unlimited-watch-3.jpg)
SJX Watches
Cartier’s best known watches are often symmetrical and formal, think Tank or Santos, but also animal inspired, most notably the Panthère. But its latest suite of ladies’ watches is unconventional in its mix of forms and finishes. Inspired by the jewellery collection of the same name, the Clash [Un]limited is edgy, modern, and different from the brand’s usual offerings. Initial thoughts While I can’t profess to be an expert in ladies’ watches, the Clash is both an interesting and appealing design to my eye. It is an intriguing mix of design elements that might seem ill-matched on their face but somehow work well together. So the dial and facetted crystal are obvious retro, but they go well with the studs and balls of the bracelet; the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. At the same time, the edgy styling of the Clash doesn’t feel like Cartier, which has a predominantly classical or Art Deco house style. In fact, the Clash seems like something from a brand more associated with streetwear, like Louis Vuitton for instance. That said, the colourful variant of the Clash does evoke Cartier’s signature Tutti Fruitti jewellery. Chic yet eccentric Launched in 2019, Clash de Cartier was perhaps Cartier’s first collection of jewellery with a distinct streetwear aesthetic, one heavy on studs and spikes. According to Cartier, however, Clash took inspiration from the work of Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976), the brand’s longtime artistic director who favoured...
Hodinkee
The bell-shaped Cloche is Cartier's new Belle of the ball.
Revolution
Wei Koh gives us his thoughts and goes hands with Cartier’s 2021 collection of Tank Must - including the Solarbeat version - the Louis Cartier and the Cloche de Cartier trio in yellow gold, pink gold and platinum.
SJX Watches
Starting four years ago, Cartier has utilised the Privé collection to relaunch many of its most classic designs, typically in small production runs. It started with the Crash Radieuse in 2017, which was followed by the Tank Cintrée, Tonneau, and last year’s Tank Asymétrique. Not unexpectedly, Cartier has continued this with the Cloche de Cartier, in both skeletonised and traditional formats. Though the form is novel, the Cloche is a long-established case design for the Parisian jeweller. Its asymmetry allows it to double up as a small desk clock, with the flat side of the case resting on the desktop. The shape made its first appearance as a wristwatch in 1921, with a platinum case set with diamonds according to Cartier. Reputedly inspired by the shape of a service bell – cloche is French for “bell” – the Cloche remained in production, albeit in tiny numbers, until a relaunch as a quartz watch in the Louis Cartier collection. The two most recent iterations of the Cloche came in 1995 and 2007, the first a limited run of 200 in yellow gold, the second 100 in yellow gold as part of the Collection Privee Cartier Paris (CPCP). Harking back to the first Cloche wristwatch of 1921 – the platinum skeleton set with diamonds Initial thoughts The watches of the Privé collection – Cloche, Crash, Tank Cintree, and Tank Asymétrique – exemplify what Cartier does best. To call these watches unconventional would be an understatement – they were radical when they each ...
SJX Watches
Having made its debut in Paris earlier in the year, the Clash de Cartier pop-up studio is making its first stop in Southeast Asia. Soon to open at the STPI Creative Workshop & Gallery in Singapore, the studio uses displays focused on music, art and literature to showcase the Clash de Cartier jewellery collection. The exhibition is structured around the concept of the Clash de Cartier, a newly launched range of jewellery characterised by contradictions and duality – bold yet delicate, structured yet – for a slightly punk-style look. The journey begins with a questionnaire that will direct visitors to their first room – either the Record Room or Bookstore. In the Record Room, visitors will be invited to listen to a playlist, curated by French sound designer Michel Gaubert, through sound shower speakers installed in the room. The playlist will consist of clashing genres of music from classical to rock. In the same vein, the Bookstore was curated to showcase opposing genres. Visitors will be able to take a short personality test to determine their “alter ego”m which will be then be translated into a haiku by actual poets at the venue. Lastly, guests can convene at the café and enjoy a complimentary pastry and drink inspired by the mix of eastern and western cultures in Singapore. Half of the café will be furnished with local décor, while the other half will be fitted out with contemporary European furniture. Exhibition details Dates: November 15-17, 2019 Time: 11...
Time+Tide
CWe watch enthusiasts love an excuse to come over all opinionated, don’t we? A little “controversy break” from our worship of calibres and references. So how about this: after-market customising. Would you or wouldn’t you? Is it cool to ice-up a Patek and black-out a Rolex – or is it a crime against horology? One … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Custom watches – cool or cliché? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
I used to really enjoy watching sports. But over the last few years, it’s become almost impossible to enjoy, as it feels like telecasts exist for the sole purpose of driving viewers toward gambling websites like FanDuel and DraftKings. It’s truly pervasive, and depending on how you view sports betting it’s either a mild annoyance or the sign of something darker and more insidious: the steady financialization of every form of entertainment. This isn’t an editorial on the ethics of gambling (or capitalism) but I’ve been thinking about both over the last several hours after we learned that Bezel, the online watch retailer that acts as an authenticated marketplace for many sought after watches from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and others, has teamed up with Kalshi, the prediction markets platform that lets users place bets not just on sports, but on questions like “What will Pete Hegseth say during his press conference?” and “Which bank will take SpaceX public?” Now, Kalshi users and presumably watch collectors and speculators can bet on changing watch valuations, as well as the likelihood of potential new releases. This seems like a uniquely terrible idea, and I hate everything about it. First, and this goes almost without saying, as watch enthusiasts, we are always trying to divorce ourselves from placing a high degree of importance on the value of any given watch. While nobody wants to lose money on an expensive watch purchase, real joy in this hobby comes ...
Revolution
Deployant
The watch is classically Cartier, and has a novel case shape which its Prive line is known for. It is priced at S$39,400 in gold and S$44,600 in platinum and is limited to 100 pieces per model. The small production number and the novel case shape is the biggest sell point of the watch, but in comparison, a gold Tank Louis Cartier with the same movement is approximately 40% less expensive.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Find the 6 most controversial watch models in our archive, from the Panerai PAM00777 to the Seiko 5KX. See why collectors clash over value, size, and originality.
Monochrome
Armin Strom is an undisputed champion of watchmaking in consistently exploring the physics of resonance. Since the debut of its Mirrored Force Resonance in 2016, the brand has developed a recognisable mechanical signature based on dual oscillators linked by a clutch spring. The new Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition revisits one of its most […]
Time+Tide
Cartier's grail collection, with new Privé Les Opus Crash, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, Tank Normale, Cloche de Cartier, & more.The post Cartier lifts the covers off new burgundy beauties and golden gems for the 10th Privé Opus (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
I missed the Academy Awards on Sunday for the first time in, oh I dunno, 30 years? It’s a cliche to say that something is “my Super Bowl” but the Oscars really are. It was more than a little strange to catch up on the awards conversation the way most people do these days: through social media clips, podcasts, and, in our little community, celebrity watch spotting. The Oscars are known as “Hollywood’s biggest night” but it could be argued, based on the volume of press releases in my inbox, that it’s the watch industry’s biggest night as well. Worn & Wound doesn’t typically cover celebrity watch spotting – we think it’s all a little silly given that most of the watches you see on wrists are placed there by stylists or are simply contractual obligations. But I hope you’ll indulge me a bit because I have some thoughts on what we’ve seen recently from one of the most talked about movie stars of the last several years, by cinephiles and watch enthusiasts alike, and I think it could be a watershed moment in how independent watches enter the cultural conversation. I’m talking of course about Timothée Chalamet, star of Marty Supreme and three time Academy Award nominee. Chalamet has made news among the watch spotting crowd for the way he has casually worn some of the highest end and most sought after timepieces over the course of the last year. On Oscar night, he was wearing an Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, a six figure watch introduced less than a year ag...
Monochrome
“Kollokium is not a brand. As pretentious and cliché as that sounds, it’s true.” So, how could we define Kollokium? It’s a collaborative project between three friends, all fairly established names within the watch industry: Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi (The Horophile). Rethinking the way to approach watchmaking, and especially branding, Kollokium frees itself […]
Worn & Wound
If you forced me to place a bet, perhaps on a platform like Kalshi, on what the latest release from Kurono Tokyo would be, there’s probably no way I’d put even a nickel of my own money on a dive watch. And if you told me that the dive watch in question would be of a unique modular design, I’d probably just be even more confused. That’s basically how I felt when I first saw the news of the new “Kurono Diver’s” watch from Kurono, which is basically two watches in one, and represents a hard left turn for a brand that we thought we had figured out. I feel like I talk a lot about how nice it is to be surprised in this industry, and this is a great example of a watch that I don’t think anyone saw coming and gives us all a chance to contemplate something a little different. Before we get into the Diver’s though (the name of the watch is stylized somewhat confusingly with the possessive apostrophe ‘s’), it’s worth setting the proper context for Kurono Tokyo, because this watch upends a lot of the expectations collectors probably have for the brand. The first thing to understand is that Kurono is the brainchild of watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, widely recognized as one of the great independent watchmakers in the world. His Kurono line has become popular over the last few years as it gives enthusiasts who might not be inclined to pay well into the five figures for an Asaoka branded watch a chance to get a lot of his aesthetic in an affordable package. It’s a dif...
Monochrome
In 2016, Armin Strom rocked the watchmaking scene with the release of its Mirrored Force Resonance, an incredible technical breakthrough that miniaturised the centuries-old concept of synchronised motion into the confines of a wristwatch. Using two independent oscillators coupled by a patented resonance clutch spring, Armin Strom breathed life into Christiaan Huygens’ observation that two […]
SJX Watches
The 1908 Itala came alive on the Silverstone grid with a sound like controlled thunder. Cecil Clutton, known to his friends as Sam, settled into the bucket seat, his hands finding their positions on the massive steering wheel. He was 63 years old; the car was a year older. Around them, sleeker machines like the Bugatti Type 35 and ERAs growled in anticipation. The other drivers wore modern racing kits; Clutton wore a tie. He dropped the clutch. The 12-litre engine roared as the rear wheels bit into the tarmac. Through Copse Corner, the car drifted wide, and Clutton held the line by feel; the steering wheel transmitted every message from the road surface through his palms. With Clutton at the wheel, the Itala crossed the line in third place; eminently respectable for a car that predated the First World War by six years. But Clutton was no ordinary racing driver, having been appointed a Commander of the Order of the British Empire for work rendered to the Crown Estate; his family founded the real estate firm Cluttons in the late 18th century. The CBE acknowledged his professional achievements in surveying, but by then his influence extended far beyond property management. He had already served as President of the Vintage Sports-Car Club from 1954 to 1957, published foundational texts on vintage motoring, established himself as a leading voice in the British Organ Reform Movement, and begun building what would become recognised as one of Britain’s finest collections of prec...
Fratello
Welcome to the first round of the Fratello Dress Watch Season contest, our effort to identify the best new dress watch of 2025. If you thought we’d kick the series off quietly, you are mistaken. The first match in round 1 immediately sees a major clash of entirely different watchmaking philosophies. Lex defends the Grand […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 1 - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Vs. Grand Seiko SBGH368 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Petermann Bédat has just unveiled its third model, the Reference 1825, which arrives two years after the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The brand’s simplest watch to date, the 1825 is three hands but far from basic. In fact, the 1825 illustrates the cliche that less is more. Founded by duo Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, the brand departs from current fashion with the 1825, which has a restrained aesthetic front and back, though the movement incorporates enough subtle flourishes to make it distinctive and distinguished. The proliferation of open-dial time-only watches with overwrought finishing makes the quiet presence of the 1825 stand out. The cal. 233 of the 1825 Initial thoughts The recent enthusiasm for independent watchmaking has tended to focus on time-only watches of a specific sort, with open dials, exposed movements, and lots of finishing techniques. Naturally, independent watchmakers and brands have delivered in response to that demand. In comparison, the 1825 is old school in style and form, almost plain in fact, but I like it precisely because of that. The 1825 is appealing on two levels. One is tangible – it is an appealing watch on the wrist and clearly executed to a high level. The other is philosophical – I applaud Petermann Bédat for not going with current fads. The 1825 isn’t imaginative or radical, it is simply a simple watch of high quality that feels like it was conceived and executed by sincere, competent watchmakers. All ele...
Monochrome
The original 1969 Seiko Speedtimer marked a milestone as the world’s first automatic chronograph with both a vertical clutch and a column wheel, boosting timing precision and reliability. That same year, the Datsun 240Z debuted as a Japanese sports car that proved its performance in global rallying, famously winning the East African Safari Rally in […]
Fratello
It’s that time of the week again, and we are back with a heated Sunday Morning Showdown. This time, Daan and Jorg will battle it out in a clash of lightweight titanium divers that they would love to wear this summer. Daan picked the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. Its solar-powered quartz caliber makes […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Vs. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
At this point it’s a cliché to even mention how outdated and prehistoric a universally negative or condescending view of “Made in China” is in the world of watchmaking. Some of the most interesting new watch brands, and a consistently growing roster of some of the most talented and resourceful living watchmakers, are establishing reputations matching, or indeed exceeding, those out of Switzerland, Germany, and Japan. In this article I have assembled just 15 of these names, some of which have been around for decades and some of which are just coming on the scene. For your reading ease, I’ve broken these down into three categories: the established brands; the watchmakers; and the upstarts. Let’s start with the Chinese watch brand most of you already know… The Established Brands Seagull Tianjin Seagull Watch Group, aka Seagull, recently celebrated its 70th anniversary, and it’s not hard to see why this giant is the most well known and prolific Chinese mechanical-watch producer. The brand made China’s first Air Force Chronograph, which has been reissued as the iconic Seagull 1963 chronograph, a watch that still represents tremendous value at around $300. But it’s not just all affordable stuff these days. Last year, I wrote about the Seagull Split-Second Chronograph, calling it one of the best values in watchmaking at $3,200. Beyond the basic chronograph and this rattrapante, Seagull has added tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters to its repe...
Fratello
It’s Sunday again, and for our showdown this week, we set up a clash between two polarizing watches that inspire no shortage of fervid opinions. First, there is the brand-new Rolex Land-Dweller that the brand unveiled during Watches and Wonders a few weeks back. It goes up against the much-debated Patek Philippe Cubitus, which debuted […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A tribute to the first chronograph pocket watch, the Louis Moinet 1816 combines contemporary case design with an all-new, classically constructed chronograph movement featuring a column wheel, horizontal clutch, and swan’s neck regulator. With the 1816, Louis Moinet has concocted an unusual but appealing proposition that blends the new with the old. Initial thoughts Louis Moinet is regarded as the inventor of the chronograph thanks to the compteur de tierce (which translates as “thirds counter”) that he revealed in 1816. His creation was considered more of a scientific instrument than a chronograph as we know it today. It was Nicolas Rieussiec who actually coined the term “chronograph” a few years later in 1821. Now the revived brand bearing Moinet’s name has taken inspiration from his 1816 invention to create a reinterpretation of the compteur de tierce. The original “thirds counter”. Image – Louis Moinet With a monochromatic, all-titanium construction and integrated bracelet, the 1816 looks to be a sports watch, yet it only has a 30 m water resistance. The traditionally styled movement stands in contrast with the contemporary and somewhat trendy exterior. Such a tribute to a historic piece would arguably have worked better with appropriately classical design. As it is, the 1816 is neither a dress nor a sports watch. The design feels confused, but the appeal of the movement alone is clear since it ticks most of the boxes that collectors appreciate in an ...
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