1,702 articles · 121 videos found · page 13 of 61
Quill & Pad
Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie, says of the new Streamliner Perpetual Calendar, “Looking at this piece one might think it is a three-hand watch with a date, yet it is the most practical perpetual calendar ever developed." Nancy Olson explains why he is quite right.
Deployant
Hands-on session comprehensive review of the new Moser Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. With pricing, live photographs and insights.
SJX Watches
After the Streamliner made its debut in chronograph form last year, H. Moser & Cie. has just grown the line of luxury-sports watches to include the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. As is typical of Moser’s house style, the new perpetual calendar is streamlined in design and presentation, with the dial indicating the date and month while remaining minimalist, avoiding sub-dials entirely. The inaugural version of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar gets a black fumè dial, giving the watch a subtle palette that’s fitting for its minimalist aesthetic. Notably, the monochromatic, shades-of-grey livery also harks back to the limited edition chronograph that was the opening model of the collection. Initial thoughts Compared to the two earlier Streamliner models – chronograph and time-only respectively – the latest is the most representative of Moser because of the ingenious movement within. A movement that made Moser’s reputation when it was resurrected in 2005, the calibre is one of the few that truly reimagines the perpetual calendar. While the Streamliner chronograph has an equally ingenious movement, the perpetual calendar movement is Moser’s own, which makes it that much more special. While appearing similar to the other versions of the Streamliner, the Perpetual Calendar differs in a few respects, which makes it stand out against its siblings in the Streamliner range, and more appealing for that reason. The design is slightly more nuanced, possessing details l...
Revolution
Introducing H. Moser & Cie.’s Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. is quietly marking the 15th anniversary of its flagship complication with the Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel. It was, in fact, this very simple and smart perpetual calendar that helped put the brand on the map when it was revived in 2005 (while the original brand was established in 1828). Like the commemorative edition made for its 10th anniversary – which was essentially a fancy pocket watch with a strap – the new perpetual calendar is a departure from the brand’s typical design and instead relies on more classical flourishes, most notably an enamelled dial and case band. But true to the brand’s inclinations, the design remains relatively clean, largely to the concise calendar display. A subtle perpetual calendar Initial thoughts Moser’s perpetual calendar has long been applauded – for good reason. For one, the display is an elegant alternative to the typical, in-your-face layout made up of multiple sub-dials. Despite being less, the Moser perpetual manages to do more, being eminently legible. And the calendar is also convenient in a tactile sense – it can be set forwards as well as backwards. But being introduced 15 years ago, the complication is now familiar, familiar enough that it might be forgotten. The presentation then becomes important. And here the new edition is successful. Being part of the Heritage collection, the new model is quite different the brand’s usual offerings, like the Pioneer and Endeavour. In...
Video
Time+Tide
After getting used to H.Moser’s futuristic offerings and extraordinary fumè dials, their Heritage line is a collection that pays tribute to Heinrich Moser, the man behind the name. The new H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel invites you on a journey back to the brand’s traditional roots and may well sweep … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Söhne recently introduced a new model: the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar, the least complicated perpetual calendar that A. Lange & Söhne has ever made. And, as Joshua Munchow explains in detail, it's a truly gorgeous way to "time travel."
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe keeps up the pace with the fourth instalment of new releases for the year, which were just announced at its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva. While most of the watches at the exhibition are one-offs bestowed with colourful, artisanal decoration, the line up includes an ensemble of repeating watches, led by the flamboyant Sky Moon Tourbillon in pink gold and brown. Simpler, at least relatively speaking, is the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374G that packs a pair of high-end complications fronted by a blue, grand feu enamel dial. Initial thoughts Today’s launches stand in stark contrast to the brand’s hottest watches of the moment – the sports watches that are arguably its most recognisable products now – that were its opening act for the year. Patek Philippe launched a slew of exquisite, highly decorated timepieces today, affirming its twin strengths – haute horlogerie and metiers d’art. The generous array of Rare Handcrafts, along with the fact that several are chiming watches, is a reminder that Patek Philippe is more than a faddish, integrated-bracelet sports watch. That said, the ref. 5374 is not entirely new (neither is the flagship Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R). In fact, the only truly new reference amongst the Rare Handcrafts complications is the Ladies Minute Repeater ref. 7040/250G. The ref. 5374 was first introduced in 2016 with a platinum case and black enamel dial – a formal, classical package. Now it ge...
Deployant
Patek Philippe unveils the Ref. 5236P-001 In-Line Perpetual Calendar, the brand's first wristwatch with a linear calendar display.
Deployant
We go hands-on in this comprehensive review of the exciting new Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar in a white gold case, and pink gold dial.
Video
SJX Watches
Shortly after launching the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A in green, Patek Philippe is taking the covers off something far more serious in terms of mechanics – the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar. Clearly inspired by vintage perpetual calendar watches like the refs. 3448 and 3450 (and a dial that’s modelled on a vintage Calatrava), the ref. 5236P is ranks as amongst the most notable Patek Philippe calendar watches of recent years – both in terms of design as well as its newly-developed movement. Bearing a close resemblance to the ref. 5235 Annual Calendar – an under-appreciated watch that I regard highly – the new ref. 5236P is equipped with a built-from-scratch calendar module that’s as complicated as some entire perpetual calendar movements. And it is powered by a refined and improved version of the uncommon cal. 31-260 micro-rotor movement that was so far only found in the ref. 5235. The cal. 31-260 PS QL in the new ref. 5236 An under-dial view of the calendar mechanism with the four co-planar discs at top Initial thoughts While clearly inspired by historical designs, the ref. 5236P manages to be different – and the most compelling perpetual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. The design heritage is clear: the ref. 5236P shares the same case style as the ref. 5235 annual calendar (which I like). Admittedly the ref. 5236P perhaps a bit too big to be as elegant as Patek Philippe’s most refined cases, but the size combined with the distinctive design m...
Revolution
Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari, walks us through Bvlgari’s 7th world records: the 5.8mm thin, Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2021.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne first unveiled the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in 2014. Still the most complicated Lange 1 in the line up, the watch combined an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a discreet tourbillon only visible on the back side. Fast forward seven years later, Lange finally unveils a simplified version – but still a complicated watch – the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar, now without the tourbillon. Two variants are available: in pink gold with a grey dial, or in white gold with a solid pink gold dial. Initial thoughts At a glance, one can be forgiven for thinking this is another version of the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon. It is, however, a completely new model that distills the design to focus on a fascinating perpetual calendar, without the added complexity and cost of a tourbillon. In typical Lange style, there were no shortcuts taken: the watch is powered by a new(ish) movement, rather than the same calibre minus the tourbillon. The removal of the tourbillon makes it more accessible, but the new watch is still a hefty €98,000 with the grey dial (and a bit more for the pink gold). At the same time, it might dilute the status of the pricier, flagship tourbillon variant. Nevertheless, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar is intrinsically an exemplary perpetual calendar – in both construction and design – especially the pink gold dial (or “salmon”) being a trendy colour that would likely be the more popular choice. An upgraded moonphase ...
Revolution
The new Slim d’Hermès Perpetual Calendar now in titanium and either platinum or rose gold.
SJX Watches
Long focused on affordable mechanical watches, Frederique Constant continued with its specialty after its acquisition by Japanese watchmaking giant Citizen. Now the Swiss brand has just revived its bestseller from two decades ago, the Highlife collection, which has been redesigned extensively. It’s a new watch in all but name – the revamped Highlife harks back to the integrated-strap of the original, but it is a design very much catered to today’s taste. The Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture The new Highlife collection debuts with three models that share the same tonneau-shaped case and integrated bracelet with quick-release pins. The most interesting watch of the trio is the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, which is affordable despite its in-house movement and styling that’s reminiscent of more expensive watches. The other two models in the line up are simple automatics: one is time-only with an “Open Heart” dial revealing the balance wheel, and the other is a COSC-certified three-hander with date. Highlife Automatic COSC The Highlife Heart Beat Initial thoughts The Highlife manages to translate the look of high-end luxury-sports watches into an affordable watch by keeping a few design elements and simplifying everything. It is unavoidably derivative in style, but competently designed. So the 41 mm case is a simple affair with simple lines and surfaces, but dressed up with a polished, domed bezel. However, it avoids looking too plain even with t...
Video
Hodinkee
A new stainless steel luxury sport watch with perpetual calendar.
Deployant
This week we review a watch from my personal collection, the IWC 3751 – Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Rattrapante in platinum. IWC 3751 Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Rattrapante The watch is the 10th year anniversary re-edition to the original 1985 Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 3750. IWC 3750 was produced during a majorRead More
SJX Watches
After an extended absence, Patek Philippe’s signature perpetual calendar chronograph is once again available in yellow gold with the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001. The new watch joins the platinum and rose gold versions currently in the catalogue, and is the first perpetual calendar chronograph in yellow gold since the ref. 5970J was discontinued in 2009. Initial thoughts The very first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph powered by an in-house movement, the ref. 5270 was introduced in 2011 but remains under appreciated, primarily because it isn’t one of the earlier perpetual calendar chronograph that are regarded as “iconic” (namely the refs. 5970, 3970, 2499 and 1518). But the ref. 5270 is excellent, or at least very good, in most tangible aspects. It’s a well-made watch with a smartly-constructed, modern movement inside robust-yet-elegant case of that sort that Patek Philippe excels at. And functionally it is also excellent, especially with the slightly larger calendar windows. Admittedly the movement finishing is not quite artisanal, but it is on par with other high-end brands that produce watches in substantial numbers, like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. It does costs more than what the competition charges for an equivalent watch, but the value of the Patek Philippe brand is tremendous. The ref. 5270J adds the option of a far more classical look to the line up. The combination of a silver dial and yellow gold case is the ...
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin refreshes its sporty Overseas collection with a skeletonized iteration of the great ultra-thin perpetual calendar and a new solid gold bracelet.
SJX Watches
Since its 2016 relaunch after a major revamp, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection has filled out nicely with a diverse range of complications, ranging from world time to tourbillon – and even a one-off prototype that was sold for charity. At Watches & Wonders 2020, Vacheron Constantin debuts the first skeleton model in the line-up, the Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar Skeleton. It has the same gorgeously elegant lines as the standard Overseas perpetual calendar, but now enhanced by the intricately open-worked movement. Rendered only in pink gold for now – other variants will surely emerge if the rest of the collection is anything to go by – the case measures 41.5 mm across and just 8.1 mm high, leaving it surprisingly slimmer than both the Patrimony Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar that’s powered by the same movement. In typical Overseas style, both the case and bracelet are finely executed, with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. Even the inner faces of the notches on the bezel are brushed, while the deeply-set inner angles on the bracelet are polished. Framed by a minute ring, the dial is mostly clear sapphire with applied hour markers in pink gold, as well as day, date and month counter rings. The moon phase disc at six o’clock is covered by a frosted portion of the crystal to delineate the age of the moon, with a gold Maltese cross applied on the frosted display. The movement is the cal. 1120QPSQ/1, the skeletonised version of the ultra-t...
Video
SJX Watches
Now 15 years old, the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar was almost always a 44.2 mm watch powered by a 7-day automatic movement (though IWC installed the same movement in the smaller, 42.3 mm ref. 5022 for several years). For Watches & Wonders 2020, IWC debuts the all-new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 that’s simpler and far more affordable. Instead of the long-standing 7-day calibre, the Perpetual Calendar 42 is powered by a simpler but nevertheless robust movement with a more conventional 60-hour power reserve. The new calibre is also thinner, resulting in a case just 13.8 mm high, versus 14. 9 mm before. And as the model name implies, the Perpetual Calendar 42 has a 42.4 mm case, which is available in pink gold, or stainless steel – a first for the regular collection. Until now, with the exception of a 2014 limited edition, IWC has only ever offered the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar with a gold or platinum case. All of that means making the perpetual calendar is significantly more affordable – the steel version costs half of the 7-day model in 18k gold. An unusual perpetual While the dial retains the traditional perpetual calendar configuration with three sub-dials for the calendar – making it cleaner and more legible the the 7-day version – it also includes a central seconds hand, which is extremely uncommon on a perpetual calendar watch. Functionally, the perpetual calendar is similar but simplified as compared to the 7-day iteration. As with all IWC...
Time+Tide
The perpetual calendar watch is among the most useful complicated watches, as well as one of the most mechanically sophisticated – and it truly comes into its own today, a leap year day. Its complexity is what sets it apart from other calendar watches. The simplest calendar watch has just a date function, driven by gears … ContinuedThe post Why you need a Perpetual Calendar watch on your wrist, today of all days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
A. Lange & Söhne launches the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “25th Anniversary”, the fourth commemorative timepiece announced in the series.
Revolution
The story of how two friends and master watchmakers, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and Roger Dubuis, gave the world its first bi-retrograde perpetual calendar.
Deployant
Next Saturday is the 29th February, an event occuring once every 4 years which a perpetual calendar watch takes care of. Here is our list of 6 of the best.
Video
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.