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Plan-les-Ouates

Geneva industrial suburb; modern manufactures of Patek Philippe (1996), Vacheron Constantin (2005), Piaget (2001), Rolex case-making.

Louis Erard Teams Up with Independent Watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin for their Latest Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Teams Up Apr 25, 2023

Louis Erard Teams Up with Independent Watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin for their Latest Limited Edition

Louis Erard is continuing their run of impressive and whimsical limited editions with a pair of regulators made in collaboration with none other than Konstantin Chaykin, the AHCI member and independent watchmaker known primarily for his Wristmons series of character watches. With this collaboration, Louis Erard returns to working with a member of the independent watchmaking community (they have previously collaborated with Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter) after a series of watches made with less likely partners, including an architecture firm (atelier oï) and a miniature marquetry specialist. Like the other collaborative watches before it, the new watch with Chaykin has the bones of a Louis Erard, but has been left with an unmistakable signature by the collaborator.  Looking back, a collaboration between Louis Erard and Chaykin seems meant to be. After all, Chaykin’s signature Wristmons series of watches are basically regulators already, featuring separate hour and minute discs representing the “eyes” of the character being portrayed in the watch (personally, I’m partial to the Minion). For this limited edition, Chaykin was inspired Likho, a cyclops figure from Slavic folklore. Likho’s eye is the dial’s focal point, acting as the hour “hand” at the 12:00 position. At 6:00, running seconds are represented by a wheel decorated with pointy teeth, so it serves as a constantly moving mouth, which is both quite clever and a little disconcerting. The extra ...

Konstantin Chaykin and Louis Erard Team Up on Le Régulateur “Time-Eater” SJX Watches
Louis Erard Team Up Apr 25, 2023

Konstantin Chaykin and Louis Erard Team Up on Le Régulateur “Time-Eater”

With a knack for novel collaborations with partners ranging from industrial designers to guillocheurs, Louis Erard’s latest project brings on board Konstantin Chaykin. The result is Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater, a regulator-style wristwatch inspired by the Russian independent watchmaker’s signature “rolling eye” watches. Inspired by a one-eyed monster from Slavic folklore, the Time-Eater has a whimsical vibe that departs from Louis Erard’s more serious offerings like the recent example with a hand-made wood marquetry dial. It is available in either a 42 mm or 39 mm size, or both together in a two-piece box set. Initial thoughts  Following its successful collaborations with other notable watchmakers, it’s perhaps no surprise that Louis Erard recruited Konstantin Chaykin. Earlier partnerships, with Vianney Halter for instance, broadened the appeal of the independent watchmakers by making the name accessible at a far lower price point. Despite Mr Chaykin’s specialty in avant-garde or fantastical designs, the Time-Eater is surprisingly restrained compared to his own creations, no doubt because it is based on the existing template of the Louis Erard regulator. As a result, it is not the full-blown Konstantin Chaykin watch that collectors might expect from the Russian watchmaker. But then again, the price of about US$4,000 means the Time-Eater is about the fifth a price of Mr Chaykin’s trademark Minion watch. The Time-Eater watch is...

Just A Minute with BOLDR Supply Co’s Odyssey Freediver GMT Worn & Wound
Boldr Supply Co’s Odyssey Freediver Apr 19, 2023

Just A Minute with BOLDR Supply Co’s Odyssey Freediver GMT

“Just a Minute” is one of our video segments where we take you through the ins and outs of some of our favorite products in just a minute! We’ve been doing this format for quite a while and our followers keep asking for more so here we are! Today, we’re taking a quick look at the “True” GMT offering from BOLDR Supply Co; the Odyssey Freediver GMT. A great piece from a trusted brand that has quite a bit to offer. “Just a Minute” is one of our video segments where we take you through the ins and outs of some of our favorite products in just a minute! We’ve been doing this format for quite a while and our followers keep asking for more so here we are! Today, we’re taking a quick look at the “True” GMT offering from BOLDR Supply Co; the Odyssey Freediver GMT. A great piece from a trusted brand that has quite a bit to offer. The post Just A Minute with BOLDR Supply Co’s Odyssey Freediver GMT appeared first on Worn & Wound.

In Conversation with Jean Arnault: The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Revolution
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Eleonor sits Apr 18, 2023

In Conversation with Jean Arnault: The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize

Eleonor sits down with Jean Arnault, Marketing and Development Director for Louis Vuitton Watches, to talk about his much anticipated initiative to discover the next generation of independent watchmakers: The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize aims to raise the profile of independent watchmakers around the world that are creating watches in […]

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Apr 10, 2023

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton

Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing its presence in the realm of serious watchmaking, an endeavour that began with its purchase of movement specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFT) a decade ago. While its recent launches have been extravagant in typical Louis Vuitton style – ranging from a gothic automaton to the casino-inspired jump hours – the brand’s latest is contemporary and low key. Enter the Voyager Skeleton, an open-worked timepiece that incorporates Louis Vuitton’s design language in an unexpectedly minimalist design.  Initial thoughts While Louis Vuitton’s top-of-the-line complications are certainly showstoppers, its simpler, regular production watches have historically been a mixed bag. But with a clear change in direction at its watch division, changes seem to be afoot, beginning with the Voyager Skeleton. Granted, it is hardly an affordable watch at over US$50,000, but it is a good looking time-only watch. The highlight is the styling of the open-worked LV60 movement that is both striking and restrained. The bridges possesses a distinctive, geometric style that is decidedly architectural. Although the automatic-winding bridge clearly forms a large “LV”, the branding is surprisingly discreet. In fact, the face of the watch has no overt branding, save for the open-worked barrel. Overall, the execution of the movement is appealing and lives up to expectations, save for one detail – the Etachron regulator looks out of place considering the ...

New: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R Deployant
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Mar 28, 2023

New: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R

Patek Philippe presents the new Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R, featuring the manufacture’s patented annual calendar mechanism from 1996. Press Release details with commentary in italics. Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R is a regular production timepiece, with a retail price of USD61,510. Commentary PatekRead More

The new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection is all about mosaics, lacquer, and gold Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection Mar 27, 2023

The new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection is all about mosaics, lacquer, and gold

Four new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier models The two mosaic models utilise tri-gold (white, rose and yellow) finished dials Two models bring the green and burgundy lacquer dials from the 2021 Must collection into the manually wound Tank LC format The Cartier Tank is one of the most iconic watch designs of all time, and … ContinuedThe post The new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection is all about mosaics, lacquer, and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard Introduces the Excellence Marqueterie SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Mar 25, 2023

Louis Erard Introduces the Excellence Marqueterie

After several consecutive hit collaborations, Louis Erard debuts its first with a wood marquetry dial. Arguably its most ambitious release yet in terms of craftsmanship, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial inlaid with tiny pieces of wood to form an M.C. Escher-like motif. For the dial, the brand tapped Bastien Chevalier, a Swiss artisan who specialises the art of creating designs and patterns out of intricately cut pieces of wood, although other materials like stone, silicon, straw, and even leather can be used for the technique. Initial thoughts In my view, most watchmakers tend to collaborate only as a last resort, when they’ve run out of ideas. What sets Louis Erard apart is its coherent strategy for collaborations. Whether created by industrial designer atelier oï, or a watchmaker like Vianney Halter, its collaboration editions are still recognisable as Louis Erard thanks to the use of the same steel case. And they are uniformly produced in small runs and priced below CHF4,000. The new Excellence Marqueterie continues this successful formula, bringing wood marquetry to the sub-US$10,000 category for the first time. While brands like anOrdain are doing something similar with affordably priced enamel dials that are designed for modern tastes, there’s never been a marquetry dial at this price point. Not only does the dial look good, it is impressively constructed from dozens of hand-made elements that require careful finishing. Despite the more complex dial...

Louis Erard’s New Limited Edition Takes Wood Dials to a New Extreme Worn & Wound
Louis Erard s New Limited Edition Mar 24, 2023

Louis Erard’s New Limited Edition Takes Wood Dials to a New Extreme

When you write about new watches everyday, it becomes harder and harder to be surprised. Most brands, for better or worse, design watches in an iterative way – new releases might be very, very nice, but truly fresh ideas are few and far between. But that just makes it even more gratifying when something genuinely different comes across the transom, as it did with this absolutely bonkers Louis Erard with a wood dial.  To start with, let’s concede that wood dials themselves are nothing new. Luxury brands have been making dials out of different types of wood for decades, with the trend reaching a peak in the 1970s and 80s. But this Louis Erard Excellence Marqueterie is unlike any other wood dial I’ve ever seen. It continues the Louis Erard trend of combining rare and traditional handcrafts with their unique, contemporary sensibility. Up to now, my favorite example of this idea was their work in the art of guilloche dial making, which took a craft that is undeniably difficult and special, but sometimes aesthetically a bit old fashioned, and made it feel extremely modern.  That first limited edition guilloche dial serves as design inspiration for this watch, made in the marquetry decorative tradition, which consists of inlaying many small pieces of precisely cut wood. Marquetry is most often used in furniture making – think table tops, the backs of chairs, and so forth. Here, miniature marquetry specialist Bastien Chevalier has produced a dial with an elaborate geomet...

Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum: “Lit” Non-Traditional High Watchmaking – Reprise Quill & Pad
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Mar 22, 2023

Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum: “Lit” Non-Traditional High Watchmaking – Reprise

The Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum continues the clever Spin Time Air concept while bringing two noticeable things to the table that weren’t there before: a slightly more toned-down Tambour case and micro-electronically lit luminous cubes. It shines in a very clever way as Elizabeth Doerr reports.

In Conversation with Michel Navas on Louis Vuitton’s New High Watchmaking Collection Atop Courchevel Revolution
Louis Vuitton s New High Watchmaking Mar 10, 2023

In Conversation with Michel Navas on Louis Vuitton’s New High Watchmaking Collection Atop Courchevel

After winning the GPHG’s Audacity Prize in 2021 with the Tambour Carpe Diem, Louis Vuitton unveiled today in Courchevel the new story of La Fabrique du Temps. Four high watchmaking timepieces have been developed with exceptional complications including two automata with 5 to 7 animations and sapphire innovations. Eleonor sat down with creative genius Michel […]

Pharrell as Louis Vuitton creative director may bring horological influence Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton creative director may bring Feb 18, 2023

Pharrell as Louis Vuitton creative director may bring horological influence

If you’re in any way interested in the world of fashion, the news of Pharrell becoming Louis Vuitton’s new men’s creative director will have reached you by now. While certainly not the obvious choice, given the existence of Jerry Lorenzo, Grace Wales Bonner and Martine Rose, it’s not like Pharrell has no fashion chops, either. … ContinuedThe post Pharrell as Louis Vuitton creative director may bring horological influence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Feb 15, 2023

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours

Louis Vuitton (LV) marked the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical watch last year (with an El Primero-powered chronograph). The brand has rapidly evolved its horological offerings over the two decades, going from largely basic, monogrammed watches to ambitious complications like the gothic Carpe Diem Minute Repeater with automaton.  A more whimsical example of LV’s progress in complications is the Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours, a quirky interpretation of the jump hour complication that’s presented in a redesigned, svelte version of its signature drum-shaped case. Initial thoughts At the distance, the Vivienne Jump Hours looks like a run-of-the-mill character watch that’s slightly fancier than average. But upon closer inspection, it reveals a novel complication and an impressive degree of detail in the execution of the dial. The jump hour is mechanically conventional but presents as a double jumping indicator thanks to clever design. Its whimsical and unusual presentation typifies the spirit of LV. In fact, the complication is different enough that we hope it will make its way into more watches, especially timepieces for men. Given that the titular Vivienne character has a male counterpart named Gaston, it would make sense for the complication to make its way into a watch in a larger size.  The Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours “Casino” with a green skarn dial And I really dig the dials of the Vivienne Jump Hours, especially the dial in skarn, a re...

Louis Erard Adds Three Colorful Variants to the Petite Seconde Collection Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Adds Three Colorful Variants Feb 7, 2023

Louis Erard Adds Three Colorful Variants to the Petite Seconde Collection

Louis Erard has unveiled their first new watches of 2023, and they build on one of the brand’s key developments from last year. Usually when this brand comes to mind, enthusiasts think of their watches with regulator layouts, and the many interesting collaborations they’ve undertaken in the last few years as they’ve really gained traction with collectors. The Petite Seconde, part of their Excellence collection, is perhaps a little slept on by comparison. These are simple three handers, and not as flashy or unusual as the regulators (well, except for this one), but they have a charm of their own and represent a kind of simple, elegant watch that used to be quite common but is now harder to find in an environment dominated by sport and tool watches. The new watches introduced today all use plenty of vibrant color, and come in a case size that collectors have been asking for.  The 39mm Petite Seconde case seen here made its debut just about a year ago with the Petite Seconde Terracotta, a coppery, earthy spin on a traditional format. Until that point, the Petite Seconde had only been available in a 42mm case, which while not enormous by most standards, certainly stretched the limits for a watch of this type, which is at least attempting to approach a certain level of refinement. Notably, the Terracotta was available in either a 39mm or 42mm case, while no such option has been made available for this colorful trio. We’re not sure if that’s a signal that Louis Erard ...

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Feb 7, 2023

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”

The world’s biggest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has in recent years revealed steadily growing ambitions in haute horlogerie, especially after its acquisition of Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFDT). To celebrate the 200th anniversary of the birth of its namesake founder, the brand created the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”.  Conceived by LFDT, the Tambour “200 Years” is a one-of-a-kind timepiece that demonstrates its watchmaking division’s mastery of fine watchmaking as well as its appreciation of artisanal craftsmanship: the movement combines both a minute repeater and automaton, while the dial is enamel miniature painting by none other than Anita Porchet. Initial thoughts Some two years in the making, the Tambour “200 Years ” exemplifies Louis Vuitton’s development as a maker of haute horlogerie. The movement is impressively complicated, while the dial is nuanced and artisanal. Granted, the watch is huge at almost 48 mm, so it’s far from subtle, but that reflects the house style of Louis Vuitton. The dial in particular reveals the thought that went into its conception and execution, with the cosmos represented by shaded, translucent blue enamel that is nearly ethereal and complemented by automaton elements sculpted in white gold. The impressionistic depiction of the night sky and planets brings to mind Stanley Kubrick’s sci-fi classic 2001: A Space Odyssey. The Tambour “200 Years” is actually the se...

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph What Jan 15, 2023

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph

What comes to mind when you think of Louis Vuitton? Is it leather bags and wallets? Cream coloured trim? Or maybe a set of high-end luggage for travelling around the world? What if I told you what you should be thinking of is a watch collection with an iconic and flexible design? That’s what we … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has a crazy dial you’ve never seen before Time+Tide
Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has Jan 14, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has a crazy dial you’ve never seen before

Blackpink star Lisa was made a Bulgari ambassador in 2020 Their new collaboration has a crazy triple-hue dial It features a loving tribute to her Swiss step-dad Not too long ago in 2022, my first exposure to South Korean stars in the realm of Swiss watches was a photoshoot with heartthrob Hyun Bin wearing the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has a crazy dial you’ve never seen before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Vuitton Announces Prize for Independent Watchmakers SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Announces Prize Jan 3, 2023

Louis Vuitton Announces Prize for Independent Watchmakers

Independent watchmaking has been gaining rapid momentum in the last three years. Young and talented watchmakers have emerged to seek recognition (and sometimes riches) in the mould of Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe. Now the field is about to get the nod of approval from the luxury-goods establishment, with Louis Vuitton having announced the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Conceived to promote “horological creativity”, the award begins in 2023 with a broad remit. It is open to anyone in watchmaking and watch design, and even from fields related to horology. Initial thoughts As the world’s largest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has unsurprisingly been making high-end watches for some time – last year was the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical wristwatch. Following its acquisition of Geneva movement maker La Fabrique du Temps in 2012, the brand’s ambitions have grown, resulting in impressively complicated watches like the Tambour Carpe Diem, a minute repeater with automaton. From that perspective, the Louis Vuitton prize is a natural extension of the brand’s progress as a watchmaker, a way for Louis Vuitton to make known its commitment to high-end watchmaking.  The fact that Louis Vuitton is using its considerable resources – the brand’s 2021 revenue was in the region of €15 billion – to support independent watchmakers is a welcome development. The prize money is substantial, reputedly in the low six ...

Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook Dec 30, 2022

Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world

Watches. They broadly tell the time, but the way in which they do so is where things get interesting. You have your minimalists, which strip things down to the barest of elements: an hour and minute hand. Once you begin to add complications, like a second hand, a chronograph function, day/date apertures, perpetual calendars, and … ContinuedThe post Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Louis Vuitton Tambour book is like an in-depth biography of the brand’s favourite model Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour book Dec 20, 2022

The Louis Vuitton Tambour book is like an in-depth biography of the brand’s favourite model

You’re probably familiar with the concept of “dog years”.  This is the idea that dogs age at approximately seven times the rate of humans and so we should consider their relative ages in this way. Whereas a seven-year-boy might still be fascinated by cartoons, whoopee cushions and nerf guns, a dog that is seven (in … ContinuedThe post The Louis Vuitton Tambour book is like an in-depth biography of the brand’s favourite model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Gwendoline Christie never felt more beautiful on Netflix’s ‘Wednesday’ set wearing Cartier Tank Louis Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Louis Netflix’s Addams Dec 5, 2022

Gwendoline Christie never felt more beautiful on Netflix’s ‘Wednesday’ set wearing Cartier Tank Louis

Netflix’s Addams Family spin-off Wednesday has taken the world by spooky storm, with Jenna Ortega’s self-choreographed dance scene going certified viral. But, while much attention has been given to Ortega’s performance as Wednesday Addams, watch enthusiasts may have clocked Game of Thrones actor Gwendoline Christie sporting a Cartier Tank Louis Large in her role as Nevermore … ContinuedThe post Gwendoline Christie never felt more beautiful on Netflix’s ‘Wednesday’ set wearing Cartier Tank Louis appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.