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The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.

Introducing: Cartier Privé Collection Tortue Hours/Minutes And Monopoussoir Chronograph Fratello
Cartier Privé Collection Tortue Hours/Minutes Apr 9, 2024

Introducing: Cartier Privé Collection Tortue Hours/Minutes And Monopoussoir Chronograph

Cartier is a brand that knows how to manage its hero designs. Few brands have as many iconic designs under their wings as the Parisian Maison. The Tortue is one that you may not be as familiar with as the Tank and the Santos. That could very well be because it hasn’t been in Cartier’s […] Visit Introducing: Cartier Privé Collection Tortue Hours/Minutes And Monopoussoir Chronograph to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin’s Tourbillon Chronograph Gets All-Platinum Makeover SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Tourbillon Chronograph Gets Apr 9, 2024

Vacheron Constantin’s Tourbillon Chronograph Gets All-Platinum Makeover

Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s novelties at Watches & Wonders is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine (CEP), the latest model to receive the monochromatic, all-platinum treatment. Coming two years after the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph CEP, this utilises platinum extensively throughout the watch, and even the stitching of the strap, while maintaining many of the standard model’s key characteristics. Initial thoughts On its face, the new Tourbillon Chronograph closely resembles the standard model in rose gold. The view from the back is practically identical – which is a good thing given the appeal of the cal. 3200, a recent in-house calibre (and not Lemania based) but one constructed with traditional aesthetics and details. Nevertheless, being a CEP edition, it embraces a primarily grey palette. This is tastefully complemented by the blue accents, including the blued steel hands, and a single blued screw on the tourbillon cage. It’s a straightforward yet effective combination.  The formula is the same one applied to past CEP editions, so the similarity between this and the standard model is understandable. However, varying the design more in order to distinguish this from the regular production model would have made it a bit more special. Nevertheless, the CEP possesses a refined charm and is more appealing than its current standard model, albeit with a price tag that is quite a bit more, as is usually the case for CEP...

IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Apr 9, 2024

IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Watches that do more than a human being is capable of are nothing new. Rolex, Omega, and others make dive watches that are capable of reaching depths that no man or woman could survive. The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is rated to 11,000 meters (which means it’s tested to even greater depths) while the deepest point in the ocean is about 10,900 meters, give or take. That means this particular dive watch can go deeper than any depth possible on the planet. Even that, somehow, feels more practical than IWC’s big release at Watches & Wonders, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. This is the brand’s first secular calendar, which accounts for leap-year exception rules in the Gregorian calendar that play out over a 400 year span. A calendar complication that no living human will have a chance to observe do its thing in real time is one thing, but it’s the moonphase on this watch that is truly looking ahead: IWC claims it’s accurate to 45 million years. And just think, it wasn’t even ten years ago that the Apple Watch had many in this industry scared that watchmaking could be killed by smart-gadgets. Talk about confidence.  The concept of a secular calendar will be worth a refresher for many, as it’s a truly rare complication that most brands simply don’t attempt given the incredibly long timeframes involved (the last one we discussed in these pages was from indie Furlan Marri). The gist is this: in addition to a leap year every four years, Gregorian calendar needs an ad...

Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar Fratello
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar One Apr 9, 2024

Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

One part inside your watch makes one complete rotation every 400 years. Let that sink in. This is the case with the new IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar ref. IW505701. The calendar will run flawlessly until the year 3999. A regular perpetual calendar would need three corrections (in 2100, 2200, and 2300). Only those centurial years […] Visit Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar to read the full article.

New: Vacheron Constantin Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024 Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Novelties from Watches & Apr 9, 2024

New: Vacheron Constantin Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024

Vacheron Constantin introduces a host of new timepieces for 2024, including one Haute Joaillerie piece. These novelties include new variations of the Overseas, Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph, Patrimony Manual-Winding, Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and Égérie Moon Phase, as well the Égérie The Pleats of Time concept watch and Haute Joaillerie Grand Lady Kalla. Vacheron ConstantinRead More

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph Apr 9, 2024

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph

Perhaps unsurprising given Cartier’s track record with the Privé collection, the jeweller has revived its popular single-button chronograph – but with an all-new movement. The Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph is a manual-wind chronograph powered by the cal. 1928 MC, a form movement conceived for the watch. Making its debut well over a decade after the discontinuation of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) version, the new Tortue Monopoussoir is slightly larger than its predecessor, but also thinner and more elegantly proportioned. While the cal. 1928 MC inside is new – the movement is notable in itself – the aesthetic is more vintage inspired, particularly on the yellow gold version; the other version is platinum. The cal. 1928 MC Initial thoughts Although relatively straightforward in concept and design, the Tortue Monopoussoir is executed well. Although the visuals are faithful to the vintage originals, especially with the yellow gold version, the watch feels contemporary because of the size. At just over 10 mm high, the proportions of the case are excellent. It feels elegant and neither too big nor too small. And it is surprisingly thin for a chronograph, which is especially appealing. Relatively to its predecessors, the new Tortue Monopoussoir sits in between: larger than the first CPCP version, but smaller than the CPCP XL model, making it just right. Between the yellow gold and platinum models, the former looks most like the 1928 origin...

Zodiac Releases Two New Versions Of Its Popular Super Sea Wolf GMT Fratello
Zodiac Releases Two New Versions Apr 8, 2024

Zodiac Releases Two New Versions Of Its Popular Super Sea Wolf GMT

The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf GMT has long been one of my favorite GMT watches. Not only do I like its functionality and overall design, but I also appreciate how Zodiac has never been afraid to use some amazingly bright colors for the GMT bezels. As a result, the Super Sea Wolf GMT has always […] Visit Zodiac Releases Two New Versions Of Its Popular Super Sea Wolf GMT to read the full article.

F.P. Journe Remembers a Friend with Élégante Gino’s Dream SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Remembers Apr 8, 2024

F.P. Journe Remembers a Friend with Élégante Gino’s Dream

A longtime friend of François-Paul Journe, Gino Cukrowicz (1959-2021) was also one of the watchmaker’s earliest supporters, having been a shareholder in the company since almost the beginning. To remember his departed friend, Mr Journe created the Élégante Gino’s Dream, a “rainbow” version of his clever quartz sports watch. A reference to Cukrowicz’s colourful personality, Gino’s Dream is the larger, 48 mm Élégante model with a bezel set with 52 baguette-cut synthetic gemstones of glass-ceramic. Apart from commemorating Cukrowicz, Gino’s Dream also serves as the 10th anniversary special edition of the Élégante. François-Paul Journe and Gino Cukrowicz in 2003 at the opening of the brand’s Tokyo boutique Initial thoughts A personality with a capital “P”, Cukrowicz was almost inseparable from Mr Journe. The rainbow Élégante is a perfect tribute that captures the man. Beyond the personal significance of the watch, Gino’s Dream is also a perfect addition to the line. Both fun and interesting without being too expensive – availability is another matter – Gino’s Dream continues with the colourful, casual, and affordable focus of the Élégante collection. Rainbow memories Gino’s Dream is a variant of the Élégante with 52 baguette-cut rainbow stones on the bezel. Instead of natural gemstones, the stones are glass-ceramic, a clear, polycrystalline material that can be used to simulate natural gemstones. As a result, Gino’s Dream is more a...

First Look – 4 New Bright and Colourful Vulcain Skindiver Nautique 38mm Monochrome
Vulcain Skindiver Nautique 38mm Apr 8, 2024

First Look – 4 New Bright and Colourful Vulcain Skindiver Nautique 38mm

In the past, Vulcain rightfully gained fame for its Cricket Alarm models. However, the brand also contributed to the world of diving watches during the 1960s, catering to the rising interest in recreational diving and the need for timepieces that complemented this lifestyle. Recognizing the significance of this aspect of its heritage, the recently revived […]

Introducing: A Comprehensive Guide To Vintage Swiss Watches Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic - Apr 7, 2024

Introducing: A Comprehensive Guide To Vintage Swiss Watches

A little while ago, a copy of vintage watch collector Aashdin K. Billimoria’s new book landed on my desk. That name might ring a bell for you as he’s also the author of Nivada Grenchen Antarctic - The History of a Legend. And now he’s proudly presenting his book titled A Comprehensive Guide to Vintage […] Visit Introducing: A Comprehensive Guide To Vintage Swiss Watches to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Titanium Vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique Fratello
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique Blancpain Apr 7, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Titanium Vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique

Blancpain finally released a Fifty Fathoms Automatique in a smaller 42.3mm size for its regular collection. There’s one in rose gold, but we especially thought the titanium version was interesting. Most of all, that’s because it’s the perfect candidate to compete against the Rolex Yacht-Master 42, which since last year, has also been available in […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Titanium Vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Subtracting a Leap Second, a Huge Star Trek Collection, and, Yes, More Dune News Worn & Wound
Apr 6, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Subtracting a Leap Second, a Huge Star Trek Collection, and, Yes, More Dune News

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Could Climate Change Cause a Negative Leap Second?   The “leap second” is one of those weird little timing quirks that sometimes comes up in human interest stories about online networks going down for unexpected reasons, or the strange particulars of how we arrive at standard time worldwide. Leap seconds, for the uninitiated, have to be implemented periodically because of the irregular rotation of the earth. One second might not seem like a big deal, but extrapolating a one second timing error over the course of years, centuries, and millenia can have a major impact. Now, as NPR reports, we might need to lose a second rather than add one at some point in the near future, and the culprit might be climate change. It’s not often discussed, but the impacts of climate change extend to the rotation of our planet, and it appears that it might be slowing it down slightly. It’s not the first thing you think of when you consider the impact of our warming planet, but in its own way could be as critical as many of the effects that get most of the headlines.  A Star Trek Collection Like Yo...