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Results for Crosshair Dial

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Crosshair Dial

Two perpendicular lines crossing at dial centre; mid-century dress-watch cue. Vintage Datejust 1601/1603, Polerouter, Constellation.
IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40 “Chinese New Year” SJX Watches
Casio nal practice Nov 7, 2022

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40 “Chinese New Year”

Continuing with its occasional practice of special editions to mark the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC debuts the Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of Water Rabbit that begins in early 2023. The limited edition retains the style of the classic Portugieser but dressed up with a riveting burgundy dial with gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts As an admirer of vintage timepieces, I find few watches that match the distinctive simplicity of the original Portugieser ref. 325 from 1939. So the Portugieser Automatic 40 is easy to like since it echoes the feel of the vintage original. The Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” stands out with its unusual dial. Bright red is the traditional colour of Lunar New Year, but its darker counterpart is a more appropriate hue for a dress watch. While the design still evokes the original – the gold hands and numerals give it a vintage feel – the burgundy dial is more dynamic than the conventional silver alternative, giving it a more versatile feel than the formal original. More importantly, the new Portugieser is not merely a fancy dial catered to Asian buyers. The case back reveals the in-house movement that’s one of the better automatic movements in this price segment. Lastly, the Chinese New Year edition costs US$1,000 more than the standard edition, which is an acceptable premium for the new dial as well as the commemorative rabbit rotor. The only downside for a co...

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Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Nov 1, 2022

Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review

Pros: Bold rugged designContrasting golden bronze case with the deep blue dial and bezelNumerous strap options as standard to interchange the look  Cons: The Nato strap makes it wear higher on the wrist, as not as flush as we would likeIt’s a larger watch so not for the faint of wrist Date wheel in white, not blue to blend in with the dial Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Rado is one of those brands that does fly a little under the radar, in this writer’s opinion. They have always had good watches, and when it comes to different design materials, like ceramic, they’re up there with the best. I bought my wife a white Rado True Thinline in full ceramic about ten years ago, and it still looks as new as the day I bought it. She loves it and wears it all the time, and is quartz and keeps perfect time (until the battery goes dead, that is!) Which makes me think, why then do guys not think about Rado as they do other mainstream Swiss brands? Maybe it’s because they don’t put giant amounts into marketing with celebrities. Or maybe we’re all too caught up on the hype watches to look elsewhere? In any case, I’ve had the good fortune to try on a few Captain Cook variants this year, and I think Rado is a winner with this model line.   A Watch Line Named After An Adventurer For those that don’t know, the Captain Cook line goes back to 1962 and was aimed at doctors, engineers, athletes, deep sea di...

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New Release: Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67 Deployant
Oct 29, 2022

New Release: Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67

The petite seconde configuration and flat case with stepped bezel is a stylistic homage to vintage timepieces. It echoes the era of fixed lugs monobloc cases that were once made from nickel plated brass. The spade hands and arabic numerals are flanked by a railroad minutes track which matches the classic look. While this may have to do with branding, a simpler logo without the large POLO font could have added more balance to the dial which favors the more subdued look. Otherwise, we welcome Polo Ralph Lauren's new Vintage 67 which acts as an avenue to initiate fashion lovers to the world of watchmaking, starting with the fine handwinding La Joux Perret movement. The watch is priced at US$2,700.

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Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’ SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava refs 565 Oct 26, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’

An Austrian independent watchmaker specialising in honest and appealing watches, Habring² has just unveiled its latest jumping-seconds wristwatch, the Erwin “THC School Piece”. Based on the brand’s signature time-only watch, the School Piece is fitted with a two-tone dial that features familiar elements combined in an unusual manner. It sports ever-popular olive green, but only for the chapter ring that features Breguet numerals. Having a 1930s vibe thanks to the dial, the School Piece was unsurprisingly born of a request by a group of Asian collectors with an eye for vintage wristwatches. Initial thoughts Neither overly vintage nor too modern, the School Piece is arguably just right. The design blends details that are common but manages to do so at a coherent manner, resulting in something different that stands out from most Habring² creations – a feat considering the that most of the brand’s limited runs are vintage-inspired watches. The styling should allow the School Piece will speak to enthusiasts across the collecting spectrum. Vintage-watch enthusiasts will appreciate the hints of the Patek Philippe Calatrava refs. 565 and ref. 570. While those who follow modern watchmaking will like the two-tone dial with a prominent green ring that gives the dial more flair than the typical vintage-style watch. And then there are the Breguet numerals that almost everyone likes. While the School Piece is certainly appealing, there are arguably too many iterations of...

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“We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811 Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2022

“We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811

During the farewell tour of the 5711 Nautilus, we were led to believe the model was bidding adieu from the catalogue – at least in its time and date only configuration. It was a bit of a drawn-out goodbye, with a final run of green dial 5711 watches that were then followed by a limited-edition … ContinuedThe post “We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Longines Introduces the Record Heritage Chronograph SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Oct 14, 2022

Longines Introduces the Record Heritage Chronograph

Longines is best known amongst watch enthusiasts for the Heritage collection of vintage remakes. The brand’s other offerings don’t usually enjoy the same level of attention – though the recent Master 190th Anniversary is an exception – so Longines is now adding some vintage flavour into its other lines. The brand’s latest is a mashup of its COSC-certified Record line and the Heritage collection. Unsurprisingly retro with a black gilt dial, the Record Heritage is the first chronograph in the Record collection, up to now comprised entirely of time-and-date chronometers. Initial thoughts Longines’ vintage-inspired chronographs are mostly appealing but Record Heritage still stands out because the brand hasn’t done too many with a black gilt dial. Looking both sporty and elegant, such dials are a favourite amongst collectors when it comes to vintage chronographs, and the look works just as well on a modern-day remake. That also means the Record Heritage is the most eye-catching watch in the Record collection, which was quite mundane until now. And unlike some past remakes that were too chunky, the Record Heritage has modest dimensions that vintage watch enthusiasts will appreciate. The case has good proportions overall and is just 40 mm wide, thought it is slightly thick due to the movement inside. More importantly, the dial has no date window to detract from its vintage aesthetics. Admittedly, the Record Heritage, like all Longines remakes, is neither origin...

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Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Oct 13, 2022

Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel

Inspired by a long-lost wristwatch saying to 1812 that might have been the first-ever wristwatch, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s signature watch for ladies. Quirky in form but elegant, the model is available in numerous iterations, but the latest is unusually stark but no less graceful: the Reine de Naples 8918 with a glossy black enamel dial. Like the rest of the line, the new 8918 has its roots in the 19th century. Invented as jewellery that happened to tell the time, wristwatches of the period were fashionable accessories. One of the earliest known examples was an egg-shaped bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, the younger sister of Napoleon and the Queen of Naples – reine de Naples in French. Initial thoughts Perhaps one of the most distinctive ladies’ watches on the market today, the Reine de Naples gets less attention than it deserves for a variety of reasons, including Breguet’s restrained marketing and the fact that brands like Cartier have more famous form watches. But the history and visual appeal of the Reine de Naples, as well as Breguet’s overall quality, makes it noteworthy. The 8918 in black enamel preserves the essence of the model, but it instantly stands out for its high-contrast, monochromatic palette. But it’s not merely a pretty face, for the execution is also appealing since it’s fired enamel in black, an uncommon colour for the material. Grand feu enamel dials are relatively uncommon in ladies’ watches, so B...

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Piaget & Phillips Introduce the Altiplano Origin China Edition SJX Watches
Piaget & Phillips Introduce Oct 10, 2022

Piaget & Phillips Introduce the Altiplano Origin China Edition

Piaget typically relies on a conventional palette for its signature ultra-thin dress watches, but its latest Altiplano livens things up. A collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Edition is based on the watchmaker’s wafer-thin watch equipped with its in-house, super-flat automatic movement. Ordinarily found with a sedate silver dial, the Altiplano gets gradient green dial with pink gold hands and markings in a 21-piece limited edition available only in China. Initial thoughts Piaget’s typical formal watches with silver dials are classic, but they can be too plain. Excepting a handful with dials in unusual materials or finishes, I find many of them overly formal and visually flat. The China edition, in contrast, instantly stands out. Though it changes nothing in terms of the basic design, the gradient green lacquer and pink gold accents give the dial a vibrance absent in the standard models. Green, however, is today’s fashionable colour, which means it’s more common than it should be. Even so, the China edition has minor design tweaks that give it a more appealing aesthetic than the standard version, like the elimination of the numerals from the seconds register. Priced at 10% more than the standard model in white gold, the China edition is more appealing. Elegantly flat In contrast to similar Altiplano models that are almost uniformly kitted out in silver dials, the China edition has a dial that’s a deep, shaded...

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Our Predictions In The Tourbillon Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): To Win This The Tourbillon Needs To Be Very Special Quill & Pad
Oct 7, 2022

Our Predictions In The Tourbillon Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): To Win This The Tourbillon Needs To Be Very Special

Five of the six watches in this Tourbillon category are either openworked or dial-less, so their visuals are not dissimilar. Five of the six are also one-minute tourbillons. One-half of the finalists have flying tourbillons, while another boasts a cylindrical tourbillon, and yet another has a constant-force tourbillon. How will our panel ever choose a winner?

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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Tourbillon “Onyx” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Oct 5, 2022

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Tourbillon “Onyx”

Despite a rocky reception when Audemars Piguet debuted the line in 2019, the Code 11.59 collection is gaining traction, especially after several facelifts that bestowed smoked dials, two-tone cases, as well as open-worked movements on the line. Continuing the evolution – and improvement – is the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that combines white gold and black ceramic in a novel two-tone case. More striking is the unexpected simplicity of the dial, which is a polished expanse of onyx stone, resulting in the most striking version of the model to date. Initial thoughts Since the launch of the collection, most Code 11.59 model have been redesigned in a manner that is somewhat formulaic, though the results have been attractive. The makeovers usually involved brighter dial colours or new materials, like the recent Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that got an aventurine glass dial. In comparison, the latest redesign is a surprise that proves less is more. Stark and minimalist yet far from plain, the onyx dial easily sets the watch apart from its peers in the collection. It does that by streamlining the dial, even removing the Arabic numerals that are a signature element of the Code 11.59. Aside from the onyx dial, I also like the smart application of coloured accents. Though it is mainly in silver and black, it has just the right amount of rose gold details in just the right places to give it warmth and a bit of a vintage feel. And the black is also smartly utilised...

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Up Close: Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary SJX Watches
Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary Oct 1, 2022

Up Close: Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary

Longines hasn’t launched too many watches this year, but it certainly unveiled a hit with the Master Collection 190th Anniversary. Based on the standard (and somewhat mundane) Master automatic, the anniversary edition sticks to a resolutely classical design but executes the dial in a surprisingly elaborate manner. The grained dial has deeply-engraved hour numerals that seem to be hand engraving at a glance, but are naturally done by machine given the affordability of the watch. Combined with the high-tech ETA calibre within, the Master anniversary offers a lot of watch for relatively little money – we explain why. Initial thoughts The Master anniversary struck me as a watch that is easily appealing when I first saw photos. Perhaps too easily appealing, because the design is a combination of familiar, likeable elements. But the dial seemed to be done unusually well, so I thought it was worth a second look. I wasn’t disappointed with the watch in the metal. The design is indeed a mix of details that are widely used elsewhere, but the execution is interesting enough – and the price sufficiently low – to make the Master anniversary an unexpectedly compelling watch. The fact that the Master anniversary is this compelling is testament to the importance of the dial. Everything else about it is identical to the standard 40 mm model. Even at arm’s length the engraved hour numerals are obvious and instantly give the watch the appearance of something fancier (and more exp...

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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe now perhaps Sep 29, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Sotheby’s autumn sale season takes place in early October, led by Important Watches I, a live auction in Hong Kong. The 249-lot sale is diverse but especially impressive in three categories, namely avant-garde complications, unorthodox sports watches, as well as independent watchmaking. We have round a magnificent seven of the “indies”, which naturally includes a Philippe Dufour Simplicity – 34 mm and guilloche dial – along with several limited-edition watches from F.P. Journe, now perhaps the establishment independent brand, and also a few more timepieces that are arguably underrated and potentially value-buys. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2178: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 34 mm A watchmaker famed for his unmatched focus on movement decoration, Philippe Dufour has only produced a handful of models across a five-decade career, but is often regarded as one of the greats thanks to his artisanal approach to classic Vallee de Joux watchmaking. While he’s made more complex watches, he is perhaps best known for the Simplicity, a fuss-free, time-only watch that does only one thing but does it well: impeccable movement finishing. Going under hammer at Sotheby’s is a classic example of the Simplicity, one that’s almost identical to the one Mr Dufour himself wears. Well suited to purists, this example is 34 mm, white gold, and fitted with a guilloche ...

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Norqain Introduces Lightweight Carbon Sports Watch SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Sep 23, 2022

Norqain Introduces Lightweight Carbon Sports Watch

Just three months after it announced Jean-Claude Biver joining its board,  Norqain has unveiled its first product conceived in conjunction with the industry veteran best known for having created Hublot as we know it today, the Wild One. The Wild One is a lightweight sports watch with a case of a carbon composite known as Norteq and a laser-cut, patterned dial. It’s the culmination of a two-year project involving Norqain, synthetic rubber specialist Biwi, and more recently Mr Biver, who “[challenged] the team to innovate; to create a lightweight and shock-resistant timepiece that reflects the brand’s active DNA”. Initial thoughts Often found in expensive and exotic sports watches – although not an expensive material in itself – carbon composite cases are uncommon at the US$5,000 price point, thought they are becoming more common. Alongside models from Oris and Bell & Ross, this is amongst the few offerings in this price segment. And the Wild One has all the features of a bona fide sports watch, including water resistance of 200 m and of course a robust Kenissi movement. That said, the Wild One will also have the downside that is intrinsic to carbon composite – it is essentially a type of plastic and looks the part, resulting in a look that you either like or not. Notably, the liberal use of modern synthetic materials like carbon composite and rubber certainly evokes other products Mr Biver had a hand in creating. And so do the aesthetics; the patterned di...

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INTRODUCING: Three new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial sci-fi and modern elegance Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial Sep 21, 2022

INTRODUCING: Three new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial sci-fi and modern elegance

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 was a controversial release, being one of the first times in recent decades that the brand had created something entirely new and non-sports oriented. Now that the dust has settled, the blend of industrial sci-fi in the case design and contemporary elegance on the dial has become an intriguing platform … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Three new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial sci-fi and modern elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition Sep 20, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition

The concept of the open heart dial is nothing new, but it’s not necessarily a popular one. For the last few decades, watch snobs have dismissed open heart dials because of how often they appear on lower-end mechanical watches, sometimes as imitations of tourbillons or placed seemingly at random. Although the luxury market tends to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Andersen Genève Introduces the Heures du Monde “Asprey” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 17, 2022

Andersen Genève Introduces the Heures du Monde “Asprey”

Once a London institution that’s been in business for over two centuries, Asprey was a storied retailer of all manner of luxury goods in its heyday. Now owned by an American private outfit, Asprey has lost its lustre, but on vintage watches the name still carries magic – a 1950s Patek Philippe ref. 2499 bearing the Asprey logo on the dial sold for a record sum in 2018. Now Andersen Genève is trying to recapture some of that magic with a double-crown world time wristwatch made made specifically for the London retailer: the Heures du Monde “Asprey” with a blue-gold guilloche dial bearing the Asprey signature at six. The engine-turned pattern on the dial is inspired by the bottles of perfume once sold by Asprey Initial thoughts The Asprey world time has a look of Andersen, an old-school, classical style that brings to mind the 1980s and 1990s. For anyone who likes that retro style, it’s a good thing since there are not many modern-day watches with such aesthetics. Still, being a special edition, the Asprey world time has to set itself apart. It does so only modestly, first with the flared lugs that were previously only used for other Andersen models, and second with the hand-made guilloche dial with a unique lozenge pattern in Andersen’s signature “blue gold”. But arguably the most important element is the signature at six o’clock, one that echoes vintage, retailer-signed world time watches from the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. With ...

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