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Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage And Recent Pre-Owned Rolex Submariner Opportunities Fratello
Rolex Submariner Opportunities Feb 10, 2025

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage And Recent Pre-Owned Rolex Submariner Opportunities

The Rolex Submariner is one of my all-time favorite watches, and I am not alone. It is so widely loved that we almost don’t see it for what it is anymore. The Sub’s ubiquity makes it feel like an obvious, unimaginative choice. This, however, does gross injustice to its status as a benchmark and example […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage And Recent Pre-Owned Rolex Submariner Opportunities to read the full article.

Seiko Adds Another Affordable Fired Enamel Dial to the Presage SJX Watches
Seiko Adds Another Affordable Fired Feb 10, 2025

Seiko Adds Another Affordable Fired Enamel Dial to the Presage

A tribute to Seiko’s first-ever pocket watch dating to 1895, the Presage Craftsmanship Series SPB495 boasts a white fired enamel dial with elongated Roman numerals, a style typical of pocket watches during the turn of the century. As is tradition for the Presage Craftsmanship series, the fired enamel dial is produced in the workshop of Mitsuru Yokosawa in the traditional way, firing the enamel glaze in a high-temperature kiln, while staying accessible with a retail price of US$1,400. Initial thoughts Seiko has released numerous re-creations of its first wristwatch, the Laurel of 1913, including the recent Presage “Porter Classic” SPB449. However, with the SPB495, the brand now goes back even further to its first pocket watch, which is marking its 130th anniversary this year. Notably, this uses the revamped Presage case that’s a little smaller and slimmer than earlier generations. The case is still a little big for a dress watch, but acceptable and also necessary due to the size of the movement. The dial is typical of 19th century pocket watches and extremely classical, even by the standards of the classical Presage series. It’s basically another option for someone who appreciates the cost-performance offering of the Presage. Staying in the usual sweet spot for pricing of the Presage Craftsmanship Series, the SPB495 is priced competitively at US$1,400. Although it’s pricier than the base-model Presage offerings, the price is more than justified by the fired enam...

Omega Starts the Countdown to Cortina 2026 with an Omega Seamaster in Moonshine Gold Worn & Wound
Omega Starts Feb 6, 2025

Omega Starts the Countdown to Cortina 2026 with an Omega Seamaster in Moonshine Gold

Omega’s Olympic legacy spans decades and continents; the brand has served as Official Timekeeper at the Olympic Games an impressive 31 times since 1932, and is set to do so once again at the 2026 Winter Games in Milano Cortina, Italy. To celebrate that golden history, Omega has created a new Seamaster heritage model-the Seamaster 37mm Moonshine Gold Milano Cortina 2026. While the name is as exhausting as an Olympic biathlon, the Milano Cortina’s design and specs will be familiar. The titular Moonshine Gold is an 18-karat yellow gold alloy created by Omega in 2019, and boasts a paler color than similar gold alloys, and a high resistance to fading. Composed of silver, copper, and palladium, it lends an elegant opulence to the otherwise understated Seamster design. The Grand Feu enamel dial wears diamond-polished dauphine hands and Moonshine Gold hour markers and Omega logo, as well as a minute track in grey Petit Feu enamel. The simplicity of this design will likely please longtime Seamaster enthusiasts-the gold case and hands alongside muted minute markers brings to mind classic Seamaster De Ville timepieces from the 1960s, and the white dial looks as crisp and inviting as a freshly-polished ice rink.  The symmetrical Moonshine Gold case and hexagonal crown harken back to Omega’s original Seamaster Olympic watches, appearing most similar to the 1956 Melbourne edition. That watch also featured 18-karat gold, though the Milano Cortina is larger at 37mm in diameter ...

Hamilton Debuts the Retro and Affordable Chrono-Matic 50 SJX Watches
Hamilton Debuts Feb 6, 2025

Hamilton Debuts the Retro and Affordable Chrono-Matic 50

Modelled on the Chrono-Matic GMT Count-Down from the 1970s, the Chrono-Matic 50 in blue stays true to its predecessor in style. The limited edition retains the five-crown configuration and retains the bold, helmet-shaped 48 mm case, though it forgoes the GMT function. As is typical for Hamilton, the new Chrono-Matic 50 is powered by a high-spec ETA movement and priced affordably. Initial thoughts For several years now, vintage reissues been a dependable strategy for watch brands. Rather than venturing into entirely new designs with unpredictable results, companies are playing safe by relying on the established appeal of reissues. But there are a lot of reissues already on the market, with more being launched seemingly all the time. The Chrono-Matic 50 in blue exemplifies this. Having introduced a black version in 2019, Hamilton has done the same in blue. The new Chrono-Matic 50 stands out from the average reissue in two respects. One is the better-than-average movement for the price range thanks to Hamilton being a sister company of ETA, the biggest maker of mechanical movements in Switzerland. The second is the historical basis of the watch; Hamilton did actually make something like that in the past, which gives this a legitimacy that startups lack. The case is somewhat oversized for my personal preference, though it is sized similarly to the chunky vintage original.It does have a unique design and layout, and with a retail of US$2,545, the Chrono-Matic 50 is also well p...

A Travel Watch Inspired by Travelers: the J.M. LeBoy Bedouin Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Feb 5, 2025

A Travel Watch Inspired by Travelers: the J.M. LeBoy Bedouin

It’s hard to understand Budapest without being there. On its surface, it seems like any other major European capital, but in practice, Budapest is a singular experience. I was lucky enough to visit Budapest when I was 14, and what I encountered was a city replete with contradictions, one that wears its history on its sleeve, and which evokes a unique perspective. In other words, it’s exactly the sort of city where you would expect to find someone like Jake LeBoy. “I went there for vacation a few years ago and I thought, you know, I’m just going to get an apartment here,” he told me. “It’s pretty nice. And I’ve been enjoying it ever since.” Jake LeBoy, the founder and designer behind the newly launched watch brand J.M. LeBoy, expresses a similar sort of contradiction. Talking to Jake, it would be hard to guess that the remarkably chipper native Californian had served as an enlisted Marine, or that he has spent much of the time since working as a military contractor all around the world. What wasn’t hard to see was his love of watches. Soft spoken and warm, Jake is a passionate watch enthusiast, driven by detail and with a strong sense of what it means to do right by the collectors whose attention he’s looking to grab. “I’ve always been a huge watch nerd,” he explained. “Even from the time I was a little kid, I saw Goldfinger and the famous Submariner, and then I saw Jason Bourne, the first one with the TAG Heuer… that for me, dude - I final...

First Look – The New Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Kicks Off “The Road To The 2026 Winter Olympics” Monochrome
Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina Feb 5, 2025

First Look – The New Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Kicks Off “The Road To The 2026 Winter Olympics”

In almost exactly one year’s time, the Olympic flame will once again be ignited, marking the start of yet another edition of the greatest sporting event in modern history. The 2026 Milano Cortina Winter Olympics will commence on February 6th next year and will welcome athletes from around the globe to Milano, Cortina and five […]

A Unique Military Inspired Watch For Under $300 – Prevail Onward Future Worn & Wound
Feb 3, 2025

A Unique Military Inspired Watch For Under $300 – Prevail Onward Future

Veteran-owned Prevail strives to redefine what a military-inspired watch can be. With a unique contemporary design language and capable specifications, the young brand is unafraid to chart its own path. The Tampa Bay-based brand donates a portion of its profits to the Heart and Armor Foundation, a charity supporting scientific research and community programs for veterans’ health. The Onward, Prevail’s freshman offering, is the brand’s contemporary update of the classic field watch formula. Housed in a uniquely shaped 42mm matte stainless steel case with 200m of water resistance, it takes the century-old formula and modernizes it for the 21st Century. Underneath the recessed sapphire crystal are three dial colors - standard black, compass green, and shovelhead - with a 12-3-6-9 “Explorer” version and a broad skeleton marker variant called the “Tactical.” With its fixed strap bars, the Onward Future is purpose-built to hold up to any adventure. Inside the Onward is the Ronda Calibre 513, a Swiss-made quartz caliber. It features three hands, one jewel, and hacking with an expected accuracy of -10/+20 seconds per month and a battery life of approximately 45 months. Veteran-owned Prevail strives to redefine what a military-inspired watch can be. With a unique contemporary design language and capable specifications, the young brand is unafraid to chart its own path. The Tampa Bay-based brand donates a portion of its profits to the Heart and Armor Foundation, a ...

Introducing – The Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 Auto Chrono Limited Edition, now in Blue Monochrome
Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 Auto Chrono Feb 3, 2025

Introducing – The Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 Auto Chrono Limited Edition, now in Blue

Hamilton’s US chapter is marked by its legendary field watches for the US Army, interpreted in the popular Khaki line, and its impressive amount of Hollywood screen debuts. On the horological front, perhaps the most exciting moment in Hamilton’s history took place in Switzerland, where it participated in the race to develop the world’s first […]

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Timex Ming Autodromo Feb 2, 2025

A Week in Watches Ep. 98: Timex, Ming, Autodromo, and More!

Episode 98 of A Week in Watches is full of nostalgia but has a few watches, too. We get things started by looking at the new Giorgio Galli S2Ti, the grand finale for Galli’s S-series. We follow that up with a look at Ming’s follow-up to their award-winning dive watch from last year. The last two stories are where we take a trip down memory lane, first with Autodromo. 13 years after its release, the motorsport-inspired brand has brought back the Monoposto automatic, their first mechanical watch. Finally, we look at the new MKII Fulcrum, a remake of another watch from over a decade ago. This year marks the 10th anniversary of the first Windup Watch Fair, and we are excited to announce that we’ve added a fourth show to the roster taking place for the first time in Dallas, Texas. Happening March 15th and 16th, the fair will host around 40 brands and be held at the Hickory Street Annex in the Deep Ellum neighborhood. Texas-based fans, mark your calendars and head to windupwatchfair.com for more details as they emerge. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 98: Timex, Ming, Autodromo, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan Launched Jan 31, 2025

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan

Launched in late 2023, the Tourbillon Cardan marked Greubel Forsey’s pivot to more classical watchmaking, away from the sports watches that defined it for several years. Staying true to its speciality, the Tourbillon Cardan is a fancy tourbillon: it’s equipped with an inclined, high-speed tourbillon making one revolution every 16 seconds, with the tourbillon suspended in a pair of cardan, also as a universal joint or gimbal, similar to the suspension used in marine chronometers. The set-up swivels the tourbillon back and forth as the carriage makes it 16-second rotation, which theoretically optimises the position of the balance wheel while the watch is on the wrist. Initial thoughts The Tourbillon Cardan is classic Greubel Forsey in many ways, bringing to mind the various exotic tourbillons the brand has released over the years. The watch is big, huge in fact, but stands out with engaging visuals thanks to the multiple motions of the gimballed tourbillon. There’s a lot to see on the open dial, which is not only complex and dynamic but also offers an appealing depth. The depth is a consequence of the thickness of the watch, which is substantial – over 18 mm high with the crystal, necessary to accommodate the tourbillon. Despite the size, the watch is lightweight as the case is titanium, but it still feels chunky but that’s almost expected for a Greubel Forsey. The compact Nano Foudroyante EWT, on the other hand, is atypical of the brand. Though the colours are mon...

Introducing – Compact and Colourful Versions of the Rado Diastar Monochrome
Rado Diastar Born Jan 30, 2025

Introducing – Compact and Colourful Versions of the Rado Diastar

Born in 1962, the Rado Diastar marked the brand’s incursion into the exciting territory of innovative materials. Combining carbide tungsten, hard metal and faceted sapphire crystal with a retro-futuristic case, the Diastar was the first step in Rado’s journey into the world of high-tech ceramics and other exciting materials. Celebrating its 60th birthday in 2022, […]

Why the Seiko Astron Might be the Most Important Watch of the 20th Cen Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Jan 28, 2025

Why the Seiko Astron Might be the Most Important Watch of the 20th Cen

Among today’s Seiko watch models and collections, it’s fair to say that the Seiko Astron does not receive nearly the amount of love from enthusiasts and collectors as do its contemporaries, like the Prospex and Presage models and even the budget-friendly 5 Sport series. And yet I believe a substantial case can be made that the Astron — at least, the first watch to bear that name, way back at the collection’s inception in 1969 — is the most important watch of the 20th Century. The first watch to the market with a quartz movement, the Seiko Astron was a game-changer for the entire watch industry, with an impact that is still being felt today. When Seiko revived the Astron in 2012 after a long hiatus, it was with the recognition that the model represented a quantum leap in watchmaking technology and the determination to take it to the next level. Seiko has fulfilled that promise with subsequent editions of the modern Astron, which brought GPS technology into watchmaking much as the original brought quartz. Here is the story of the Seiko Astron and its 50-plus-year journey to the cutting edge of technology. The Road to Quartz: 1952 - 1968 The quartz watch movement, as with many other groundbreaking inventions, did not emerge from a single burst of creative vision, but ultimately proved to be the most workable version of many such mechanisms, all aimed toward addressing the same industry-wide challenge. As I explore in greater depth in my article on the History of Tim...

Aquastar Benthos H2: Revisiting the Past, With an Eye on the Present Two Broke Watch Snobs
Jan 25, 2025

Aquastar Benthos H2: Revisiting the Past, With an Eye on the Present

Aquastar's Benthos 500 holds an important spot in dive watch history. First unveiled in 1970, it stood out from the crowd with its unique chronograph-like functionality and slow-moving 60-minute elapsed-time counter. It was bold, unconventional, and ahead of its time-until the Quartz Crisis swept the industry off course. But what if quartz hadn't disrupted the market so quickly? The new Aquastar Benthos H2 wonders just that, providing a design inspired by archival drawings from the late '60s while moving it towards modern tastes and technologies.

TAG Heuer Unveils their Latest Edition of the Chronosprint, an Unusual Chronograph Celebrating Porsche Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Unveils their Latest Edition Jan 23, 2025

TAG Heuer Unveils their Latest Edition of the Chronosprint, an Unusual Chronograph Celebrating Porsche

TAG Heuer has re-teamed with Porsche for a follow up to one of their most popular collaborations of the last few years. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye builds on the success of 2023’s TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, evolving the watch with a new dial and a few other changes to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Porsche 911’s early success at the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally. The big selling point of the Chronosprint, which is based on the visual format established by the ‘Glassbox’ Carrera introduced in 2023, is the unique implementation of its chronograph. Where a traditional chronograph’s sweep seconds hand will move around the dial at an even pace, the Chronosprint’s chronograph hand jumps off the starting line, sweeping across a third of the dial in 9(.1) seconds, before slowing down over the next 49.9 seconds to cross the minute mark at, well, a minute, before speeding up again. It’s one of the rare watches I’ve encountered in recent memory that feels like it offers a genuinely unique take on what is otherwise a pretty standard complication. For the most part, this year’s Chronosprint is the same watch Zach introduced 18 months ago, save for a handful of aesthetic changes, inspired by the Porsche 911 “147” used for the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally. Foremost among these is that this year’s Chronosprint drops the silvered dial of the last model in favor of what TAG Heuer is calling a “Black Shimmery” dial. Basically, ...

Everything Tiffany & Co. Released At LVMH Watch Week 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 22, 2025

Everything Tiffany & Co. Released At LVMH Watch Week 2025

While Tiffany & Co. sparks immediate associations with its signature robin’s egg blue boxes, Art Nouveau lamps, and perhaps a certain Audrey Hepburn film, the jeweler does have a rich horological history that can be traced back to the mid-19th century. This week, the brand (now part of French luxury group LVMH) doubles down on its commitment to high horology in this century, releasing four distinct new watches that reinterpret the American high jeweler’s lengthy legacy for the contemporary watchmaking landscape. Debuting a collection of four new pieces, Tiffany & Co. cuts through the sense of stark minimalism that so often pervades modern design in favor of unabashed, maximalist opulence.  Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria Enamel Watch Selfishly, it seems only fitting to begin with my personal favorite among the four new releases. Featuring a swirling-patterned enamel dial, 18k white-gold case, and hour markers set with diamonds of various shapes, the Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria Enamel infuses the brand’s well-established Eternity line of watches with the flair of one of its most sought-after lamp designs – the Wisteria Tiffany lamp.  “Iconic” is often overused in the popular lexicon when referring to classic designs, and I try to use it sparingly. But in the case of Tiffany lamps — with their intricate latticework, motifs that draw upon the natural world, and the bold interplay of color, which only becomes more compelling as the light filters through their var...

Sartory-Billard Introduces a Pair of New References on the SB04 Platform Worn & Wound
Jan 17, 2025

Sartory-Billard Introduces a Pair of New References on the SB04 Platform

Micro-indie brand Sartory-Billard, founded by Armand Billard and his friend Ludovic Sartory in 2015, is well-known for its custom bespoke timepieces. In a shift from its usual practices, the brand is set to release two new fully fleshed-out models featuring its standard SB04-E case: the Ruby Platinum, which will be a limited series, and the Tantalum Hand-Engraved, which will enter regular production. Both models aim to showcase the brand’s craftsmanship and expertise, a goal they seem to have achieved based on these brand supplied images. The Ruby Platinum watch features a dial centerpiece made from genuine ruby sourced from a responsibly harvested boulder in Tanzania, Africa. The ruby is crafted into dial inserts in Germany, just an hour away from the Sartory-Billard workshop. Because of the unique nature of the material, no two dials are identical; each displays distinct textures. Completing the dial is a fumé sunray-textured platinum-plated outer ring. Tantalum is one of the most challenging metals to work with due to its remarkable density and hardness. Engraving a delicate design on its surface requires great skill, which is exemplified in the intricate feather-like engraving found in the center of the Tantalum Hand-Engraved dial. Like the previous model, this one also features a surrounding ring; however, this one is made of solid tantalum and finished with a fumé sunray effect. Both watches have a 39.5mm diameter case, measuring 46mm from lug to lug and only 10....

Breitling Introduces Navitimer B01 “Translucid” Purple SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Navitimer B01 “Translucid” Jan 17, 2025

Breitling Introduces Navitimer B01 “Translucid” Purple

Breitling’s latest take on its signature aviator’s chronograph is the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Cortina Watch, a limited edition for the Singapore-based retailer. The 50-piece run retains the classic Navitimer design featuring the hallmark slide rule bezel, but with a striking dial in satiné translucid purple, essentially translucent lacquer. The purple dial is matched with red gold appliqués that include the Breitling emblem, contrasting against the dial’s vibrant hue. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest offering is one of many (maybe too many) dial variations within the Navitimer collection, such as the Navitimer Singapore Airlines Editions and the Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary”, but it’s distinctive for the vivid dial colour that is seldom used by Breitling. Admittedly, the colour is hardly traditional for a pilot’s watch, but it is appealing and refreshes the familiar Navitimer look. This edition is based on the 43 mm model, which some might find too big. The 41 mm Navitimer, which is also identical in size to the vintage original, is more wearable. The new Navitimer is priced at S$13,980 (equivalent to about US$10,000), which is comparable to the regular production version. Given the high-spec, in-house chronograph movement, the Navitimer B01 is reasonably priced. Even though the limited editions are arguably too numerous, this edition manages to stand out. Exquisite movement Dial colour aside, the Cortina edition is identical to the standar...

Introducing – A new Bold & Gold Edition of the Citizen Series 8 Mechanical GMT 880 Monochrome
Citizen Series 8 Mechanical GMT Jan 16, 2025

Introducing – A new Bold & Gold Edition of the Citizen Series 8 Mechanical GMT 880

When it was presented in 2021 in Europe, the Citizen Series 8 collection made quite an impression on us, with its combination of sharp lines, bold designs and fair prices. The little sister of the high-end The Citizen range (a truly important step in the brand’s history), it marked the brand’s commitment to seriously look […]

TAG Heuer Becomes the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1 Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Becomes Jan 13, 2025

TAG Heuer Becomes the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1

Highlighting the various sponsorships that watch brands engage in is not something we normally cover as news here on Worn & Wound. That’s partly because these kinds of commercial ventures rarely have much to do with what we think of watch enthusiasm, given that they’re executed by enormous corporations who historically have little regard for the hobbyist and enthusiast segment of the market. It’s also because there are so many, it would become hard to draw a line in the sand to determine what is and is not newsworthy. Virtually every watch brand sponsors something, it’s one of the most time tested marketing tactics available to a watch brand. And the very nature of watchmaking means that there are natural relationships to be formed between brands and companies in a myriad of other disciplines. Few of those disciplines match motorsport when it comes to overlap in the proverbial Venn Diagram of the two interests, and F1 in particular has a higher than average profile. So when a storied watch brand announced a return to F1 sponsorship recently, we thought it was worth discussing.  TAG Heuer announced recently that they’ll be returning as the official F1 timekeeper when the new season gets underway in March. TAG Heuer has an association with motorsport that is nearly unmatched among watch brands, so you can expect the brand to be making a pretty big deal out of the new partnership in the 75th anniversary F1 season.  This is not the first time TAG Heuer has joined f...

Fears Unveils a Very Limited Version of the Brunswick Jump Hour for British Watchmakers’ Day Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Jan 10, 2025

Fears Unveils a Very Limited Version of the Brunswick Jump Hour for British Watchmakers’ Day

With the release of their Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour watch in 2024, Fears built on the already elegant jump hour platform that debuted with their Alliance 01, built in collaboration with Christopher Ward in 2023. Continuing this form, the Bristol-based company has announced the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour ‘Edwardian Edition’ to celebrate British Watchmaker’s Day 2025. Limited to 10 pieces and available exclusively at the British Watchmaker’s Day event on Saturday, March 8th, the Edwardian Edition features much of the same elegance as its predecessors, albeit with a few special details. The full-polished sterling silver case-Fears’ second such case in 100 years-wears a London Assay Hallmark, Fears’ own maker’s mark, and a flawless diamond-set crown, while the strap sports a matching sterling silver buckle. Like the original Brunswick Jump Hour, the Edwardian Edition is powered by the Christopher Ward JJ01 jumping hour module, which features automatic winding and a 38-hour power reserve.  What sets the Edwardian Edition apart, though, is the stunning, hand-polished white lacquer dial, which features numerals and a Fears’ logo derived from the brand’s Edwardian-era pocket watches; a hand-varnished and diamond-cut glossy black minute hand pops against the multi-layer lacquer. In addition to the dial, an exclusive heritage-inspired hour disc and a maple red Alcantara strap (lined with English Tan calf leather) further elevate the Edwardian Edition. Each watch ...

First Look – Tissot Expands its Accessible Le Locle Collection with Two New Models Monochrome
Tissot Expands Jan 9, 2025

First Look – Tissot Expands its Accessible Le Locle Collection with Two New Models

In 2023, the Tissot Le Locle collection marked its 20th anniversary, and with the addition of the two new models, it now comprises 30 references. Renowned for its classic yet engaging design, the collection offers elegant, timeless elements and practical features, appealing to those seeking a refined, understated timepiece with an exceptional price-quality ratio. Let’s […]

Hands-On: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin 222 following Jan 7, 2025

Hands-On: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm

It is not common practice for us to spend time crafting a hands-on review for watches that sit outside of our personal periphery. There needs to be a thread to pull, some emotion to lean on, and an opinion worth sharing. So, in full disclosure, when arranging a loan for the Gerard-Perregeaux Leureato Chronograph 42mm I did so based on the fact that it had been a while since I had spent any considerable time with a GP and didn’t have any solid thoughts on writing about it. The model is a bit overlooked in the market, has a higher and extremely competitive price point, and has been overshadowed a bit by the titanium version released earlier in 2024. But sitting there with the Laureato Chronograph dial dancing in the light shooting bursts of blue at me, I really began studying the piece. To understand the Laureato though, you must understand the history and a bit of the controversy surrounding it.  An oft-forgotten integrated bracelet watch originating from the “golden” Genta age of design, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato can trace its roots back to 1975. While not a Genta design, some believe the Laureato bears a striking resemblance or is a love child of the iconic AP references that gained him eventual fame. For full context, we had the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972, the Baume et Mercier Riviera in 1973, the original Laureato in 1975, the IWC Ingenieur and Patek Philippe Nautilus in 1976, and then the Vacheron Constantin 222 following in 1977. Of course, there are...

Longines’ High-Frequency Chronometer Gets a Carbon Composite Case SJX Watches
Longines High-Frequency Chronometer Gets Jan 3, 2025

Longines’ High-Frequency Chronometer Gets a Carbon Composite Case

Arguably under appreciated, the original Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver was a precision timekeeper with a high-frequency movement, the L.836.6. With the high-spec movement, the watch was appealing, albeit pricey by Longines’ standards. Now the brand has given the model an upgrade with the Ultra-Chron Carbon. The Ultra-Chron Carbon retains the familiar cushion-shaped case, but now in carbon composite, giving it lightness and a modern aesthetic that contrasts well with the retro, 1970s origins of the design. Initial thoughts The Ultra-Chron Carbon stands out for its blend of an advanced, industrial movement, composite materials technology (undoubtedly thanks to the Swatch Group’s vast industrial base), and a vintage-inspired aesthetic. Although it’s simply a modest variation of an existing model, the new Ultra-Chron marks the brand’s first venture into non-traditional case materials in the modern day. Priced at US$4,900, the Ultra-Chron Carbon commands a notably higher price than its stainless steel counterpart. While it does offer technical advantages - such as the carbon composite case and a high-frequency (5 Hz) movement - the watch still feels a little expensive relative to alternatives, especially since Longines is primarily a brand that competes in a lower price range. More broadly, the Ultra-Chron Carbon is not a like-for-like vintage remake, which is a good thing. But Longines can arguably do more with its movements. Given that the brand’s enthusiast-orien...

In-Depth Retrospective: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk “Luminous” SJX Watches
Casio ns I was already Jan 3, 2025

In-Depth Retrospective: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk “Luminous”

I was there when the Zeitwerk “Luminous” was launched at SIHH in January 2010, just a few months after the launch of the original Zeitwerk in May 2009. To say that I was impressed with the Zeitwerk “Luminous” when I first saw it that year is an understatement. Already the original Zeitwerk was, and is, a landmark in contemporary watchmaking. A luminous version, well, what could be better? Even though the most complicated Lange debuted that year was the Tourbograph Honeygold “Homage to F. A. Lange” for the 165th anniversary (an odd milestone to celebrate but that’s another story), the glow-in-the-dark Zeitwerk was the star. Enough of a star that Johann Rupert, the controlling shareholder of Richemont, has been spotted wearing one on several occasions. I was already a longtime fan of the brand, but that Zeitwerk “Luminous” was astonishing. Even though it was, strictly speaking, merely a cosmetic variation, the Zeitwerk “Luminous” was cool – and that was a big deal for a brand like Lange. I wrote this about the watch at SIHH 2010: “[It] is absolutely unconventional… even avant-garde… During the day this has a dark, almost brooding look, but at night it glows tenaciously… This avant-garde PVD Lange is utterly cool (yes, “Lange” and “cool” in the same sentence). It is a tad gimmicky, but the lesson is this: gimmicks are forgiven if a watch is truly high quality and innovative.” I wasn’t the only one who thought that way, because thoug...

My Year in Watches: Evolving as a Watch Writer Worn & Wound
Dec 27, 2024

My Year in Watches: Evolving as a Watch Writer

Just over a year and a half ago, I began writing for Worn & Wound. According to my author’s page, that has amassed a total of 14 pages worth of content – totalling, by my best estimation, around 110 articles I have done for the site. It’s hard to believe that I have that sort of library to look back upon. This is mostly due to the fact that, in June of 2023, I would have told you I didn’t know a damn thing about watches. Just a short eighteen months ago, if you would have asked me what a tourbillon was, I would have answered a fish that pairs well with citrus. Other than thinking of a watch as an accessory, I never gave them much thought – let alone the entire industry. I think, if you were to read back on those early articles, you could see this. I was, at best, timid – afraid to offend a brand or the Worn & Wound community. And, at worst, I was a fraud. And sidling in between those two poles of my own self-doubt, I would sit at my desk to parse a press release and convey whatever information I could gather to you, the reader, in the hope that you would believe in me as a watch writer.  It wasn’t until this last year that that began to change. Practice makes perfect, they say, and I think if you do anything long enough you can get a handle on it. For me, the shift came when I stopped writing about what I thought readers would want to know and actually began paying attention to the market, and by extension the community, at large. I began to think of the wat...

The Worn & Wound+ Community Picks their Favorite Watches of 2024 Worn & Wound
Tudor stan it pains me Dec 24, 2024

The Worn & Wound+ Community Picks their Favorite Watches of 2024

It’s been a great year over on Worn & Wound+, our dedicated Slack channel for Worn & Wound readers, and watch and gear enthusiasts of all kinds. At the moment, we have over 1,000 people from all over the world in our Slack channel talking about watches and many, many other topics. There are dedicated channels to discuss EDC and gear, movies and television, photography, and more. There’s a marketplace channel where members can safely buy and sell watches, and there are channels where members can arrange local in-person or virtual watch meetups. It’s also, of course, a great place get insider info on deals from the Windup Watch Shop – you never know what watches might turn up for sale in the Slack channel before they’re made available anywhere else.  All that said, it’s the great watch discussions that are really at the heart of Worn & Wound+, so as the year draws to a close, we thought we’d ask members of the Worn & Wound+ community to tell us about some of their favorite new releases of the year. And if you’re still not signed up for Worn & Wound+, be sure to hit this link and check it out. It’s completely free, and we’d love to see you join the community.  Andrew Iveagh – Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” As a long time Tudor stan, it pains me to say my favorite of 2024 was the Omega Speedmaster FOIS. Between the reduced size, the blue gray dial, and the tan/fauxtina lume, it’s a vintage inspired lover’s dream. I’m usually a dive/g...

Best of 2024: Complications SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Dec 23, 2024

Best of 2024: Complications

Perhaps echoing the paucity of highlights in indie watchmaking, the best complications of 2024 were not numerous, but those that stood out were outstanding. Vacheron Constantin, for instance, unveiled the most complicated watch ever, while Bovet solved the longstanding problem of summer time across continents in an enormous (and enormously expensive) wristwatch. Here’s the team’s take on the best complications of the year. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst – Brandon Moore The iconic Datograph turned 25 this year, and collectors were treated to three different limited edition variants to mark the occasion. We were first introduced to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” and the Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary at Watches & Wonders, but Lange was arguably saving the best for last: the first Datograph to receive the brand’s artisanal Handwerkskunst treatment. Featuring a hand-engraved tremblage dial and limited to just 25 pieces, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is a fitting way to celebrate a quarter-century of being best-in-class. While not particularly creative, this very-limited edition captures both the magic of Lange and its Datograph perfectly. Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 – SJX The introduction to our story on the watch sums it up best: “The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 is an ingenious solution to an age-old problem: accounting for daylight saving time (also known as summer time) in a multi-timezone wristwatch… the solution is e...