Hodinkee
Introducing: A Solid Gold TAG Heuer Carrera From Bamford And Wes Lang
An artful and very limited panda-dial Carrera.
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Hodinkee
An artful and very limited panda-dial Carrera.
SJX Watches
While historically a movement and components supplier, Schwarz Etienne has produced timepieces under its own name for some years now. Some of its watches feature original designs with a touch of traditional watchmaking, an example being the recent collaboration with independent watchmaker Voutilainen. Now, it is continuing the collaborative design approach in its latest release, the Geometry. Unveiled as a limited edition in two colourways, this collection showcases a dial penned by Eric Giroud, the designer best known for his work for contemporary brands like MB&F;. Described as “deconstructed”, his dial design takes inspiration from the branch of mathematics that’s all about precise alignment and arrangement of lines to form shapes. Initial thoughts In recent years, a growing number of watch brands, including Louis Erard and Bulgari, have embraced geometric dial designs to produce some standouts in their collections. As evident in its latest creation, Schwarz Etienne also aligns with this trend. What sets the Geometry apart is the combination of traditional decoration with modernist style in its contrasting utilisation of fluted lines and clous de Paris patterns. Between the two iterations, the silver dial is particularly captivating. The subtle contrast between the textures and colours are simultaneously cohesive and balanced, creating something pleasing and elegant out of what could be a very busy dial. With a price tag of US$23,490, the Geometry is expensive i...
Hodinkee
Two-tone dial, Breguet numerals, and details done right, all in a modern package, make for a fun homage to the classic Calatrava.
Deployant
Bell & Ross adds to their BR05 GMT collection a new model with a sky blue dial in a beautiful sunray finish. Here is our hands-on review.
Revolution
The Laurent Ferrier x Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia is our latest collaboration with the man himself, featuring a verdant green dial inspired by Laurent’s love for nature and conservation. Laurent Ferrier’s legendary status needs no introduction, a third-generation watchmaker, with a three-decade career as a technical director for Patek Philippe and also a semi-professional racecar […]
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Grand Seiko is well-known for a wide array of dial expressions, faceted case geometries, handsome Zaratsu finishing, and, of course, their proprietary Spring Drive system. But as one of few truly vertically integrated manufactures, Grand Seiko does have one glaring gap in their catalogue: complications. Yes, Grand Seiko has previously presented GMT watches and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
This weekend marked the 100th running of the 24 hour race of Le Mans at the Circuit de la Sarthe in France, and Rolex took full advantage of the occasion with the release of a new Daytona with a dial that recalls the now famous ‘exotic’ dial, aka Newman dial, of older references. This release is surprising for a few reasons, and may even offer some insight to what we might expect from Rolex moving forward. We’ll get to all that, but in many ways, this is the Daytona that enthusiasts have been asking for since the late ‘80s – it’s the ‘greatest hits’ watch, perfectly capitalizing on the the new Daytona chassis released just earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, which we went hands-on with right here. First and foremost, Rolex is not in the habit of dropping new releases outside of their regular yearly cadence. We last saw it with the release of the Deepsea Challenge in late 2022, the first commercial Rolex to tout their RLX titanium material. While that watch could be considered something of an outlier, given its rather extreme nature, the Daytona is another story entirely. This new reference, the 126529LN officially, joins the new collection as a regular production model. That reference number ends in four characters that have never appeared together in the Daytona family, the 29 indicating a full white gold case and bracelet, and LN, or Lunette Noir, meaning it sports a black Cerachrom bezel. Vintage Rolex Daytona reference 6263 with exotic dial The firs...
SJX Watches
Amongst the special editions created for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo is the World Time Minute Repeater Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5531R-014. The ref. 5531R-014 is the more complicated of the two world time models that mark the event – the other is the ref. 5330G – and features a cloisonné enamel dial. The dial continues with the motif first found on the ref. 5531R-010 made for the Grand Exhibition 2019 that took place in Singapore. Its centre is cloisonné enamel depicting a stylised map of the Chuo ward in central Tokyo, including the expansive grounds of Imperial Palace on the upper left. Initial thoughts Unlike the other two Grand Exhibition Tokyo 2023 complications – Quad Comp ref. 5308P and World Time ref. 5330G – that are new references containing new calibres, the ref. 5531R is a variant of a regular-production model. So while it less interesting from that perspective, the ref. 5531R-014 is still an compelling watch. The cloisonné map is an unusual motif for a dial, and almost abstract at a distance, but interesting and appealing. The watch does have intrinsic appeal, however, it also does look similar to the ref. 5531R-010 made for the 2019 Grand Exhibition in Singapore. In fact, the two are probably indistinguishable from across a room. Doing something more distinctive, for instance another case metal and dial colour, would have made this more unique. A bird’s eye view of Tokyo The cloisonné enamel dial captures the Ch...
SJX Watches
Having just opened the doors of the Watch Art Grand Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, Patek Philippe also revealed the special editions created for the event, including the World Time Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5330G-10. Limited to 300 watches available only in Japan, the ref. 5330G-010 is the brand’s first world time with a date display. It features a guilloche dial in purple, the thematic hue of the exhibition, along with subtle references to Japan on the dial. Initial thoughts While the ref. 5330G-010 is not the flagship complication of the Watch Art Tokyo 2023 event – that title is claimed by the ref. 5308P Quadruple Complication – the new World Time is quintessential Patek Philippe. For one, the world time complication, though not invented by Patek Philippe, is strongly associated with the brand. At the same time, the date display is both practical and incorporated in an elegant manner, while the mechanics behind the date are sophisticated and thin as is typical of the brand’s approach to movements. Also in its favour are the discreet and tasteful references to Japan on the dial. But while the plum dial is striking and rich, the colour might not be for everyone. But putting aside the colour, the ref. 5330G-010 is an appealing watch. It is limited to just 300 pieces sold only in Japan, which makes availability at retail non-existent for most, but fortunately the ref. 5330 will almost certainly make it into the catalogue as a regular production model, as past exhi...
Time+Tide
Junghans adds three new versions to the Meister Pilot collection The new dial colours include sand and navy blue A rich history complements great value for money Even if it seems like it, not every pilot’s watch has to look the same. The Junghans Meister Pilot is a novel take on a concept that’s in … ContinuedThe post The new Junghans Meister Pilot models put a fresh twist on pilot’s watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Dan Henry 1970 44mm has been re-issued four years after it sold out. The range of new colours includes a black and cream dial with a blacked-out case. It’s available as a limited edition of 1,970 pieces. Dan Henry has soared since the brand’s inception back in 2016, and they can hardly even be … ContinuedThe post The Dan Henry 1970 44mm is back with new colours and the same, affordable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Maurice Lacroix releases a new version of the Pontos S Diver after discontinuing the 2013 model Three dial colourways available: Grained Black, Lacquered White & grained Deep Blue This new version is thinner, smaller and more refined, making it more versatile than before Maurice Lacroix just released their new Pontos S Diver in the best … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix presents the new Pontos S Diver in proper Mediterranean fashion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Halios, Jason Lim’s microbrand that has developed a rabid following over the years, only increasing as new releases have slowed, is releasing a new watch today in a collaboration with Topper Jewelers out of Burlingame, CA. It’s a new Universa, but it incorporates dial elements typically found in the Seaforth, the watch that is in many ways the brand’s calling card. In that sense, it’s a bit of a hybrid, combining several elements of Jason’s design language that have endured over the years. The Universa has a 38mm stainless steel case that is mostly brushed, but has a classic polished chamfer along the lugs. It has a sculpted, almost architectural feel to it, with wide facets and gentle curves. The bezel-less design gives the watch an old-school, no nonsense sports watch vibe, and it certainly wouldn’t be crazy to note that the watch takes plenty of inspiration from classic tool watches. It’s the dial, though, that makes this Universa special. It’s a crisp white with hands and hour markers that have been accented in black for maximum contrast. The layout is taken directly from the Seaforth, and includes the same thick, applied hour markers that give the dial an increased sense of depth. Hash marks on the minute scale alternate between blue, yellow, and green, representing natural elements found near Topper’s headquarters in Burlingame (the ocean, northern California sunshine, and giant redwood trees). Speaking to the intensity of Halios’ followin...
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TAG Heuer releases the first Monaco with a skeletonised dial Three colourways available – Original Blue, Racing Red and Turquoise Cases are made from grade 2 titanium Would Steve McQueen be turning in his grave at the sight of the new TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton? It’s worth asking the question, because there’s no doubt that … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton gives the iconic model a techno remix appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Two years ago, Audemars Piguet (AP) introduced the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther”, a watch that caused a stir, to put it mildly. While the comics-and-complications combination was unorthodox, the watch was a commercial success. Now AP is following up – as promised – with its second Marvel collaboration, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man”. Like its predecessor, it has a miniature sculpture of the superhero as the dial and it is once again again a Royal Oak Concept, but now powered by a new calibre. And the Royal Oak Spider-Man watch also continues the charitable tradition started by its predecessor. A unique version of the new watch, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Black Suit Spider-Man” that depicts a black-and-silver superhero, will be sold at auction to benefit First Book and Ashoka, a pair of charities that bring education to disadvantaged youth. Initial thoughts In some ways, the Royal Oak Black Panther did not look serious enough for such an expensive watch; it was perhaps too purple. While its aesthetics were subjective, it was certainly well executed. The miniature sculpture was done well in both detail, colour, and form. The same holds true for the Royal Oak Spider-Man, but it is an altogether more attractive watch. For one, it is less purple and more monochromatic, with much of the watch being black and white, leaving only the superhero figure to convey colour. And the figure itself is better positioned in that it allows more of t...
Hodinkee
A handsome, modern, and feature-rich limited dive watch with a striking bronze dial.
Hodinkee
From dial colors to integrated bracelets, these new Citizens are in-vogue and summer-ready.
Worn & Wound
It has been almost 50 years since the first time the iconic orange dial Doxa appeared on the wrist of Dirk Pitt in Clive Cussler’s adventure novel series. But the famed novelist and maritime explorer’s connection with Doxa occurred way before the diver was cemented as part of his protagonist’s far-flung adventures. As a budding author, Cussler decided to take a part-time gig at a dive shop; not only because the schedule was ideal for writing, but because he wanted to immerse himself in the diving world to find all sorts of inspiration for his novel’s plots and characters. While simultaneously applying his talents as a previous Creative Director for a prominent LA ad agency to the dive shop’s operation, Cussler worked his way into his first-ever publishing deal. It was then, the owner of the dive shop gifted Cussler a Doxa. Clive Cussler’s son, and an author himself, Dirk Cussler, clarified on stage during a special event hosted by Doxa and Watches of Switzerland at the New York Yacht Club, that his father had his choice of what was in the display case that very day. He fittingly went with an orange dial Doxa Sub 300T and the rest as they say, is history. Clive Cussler’s legacy lives on through his children, the adventures of Dirk Pitt and the efforts of the National Underwater and Marine Agency (NUMA), a non-profit organization he founded that’s dedicated to preserving the history beneath the ocean’s surface. With the new special edition release from Doxa...
Time+Tide
J.N. Shapiro introduces the first handmade mechanical watch “Made in America” since 1969 The Resurgence is a love letter to handmade watchmaking, offering a layered guilloché dial, engine-turned mid-case, and damaskeening on the bridges Options are plentiful, making each Resurgence unique to its owner Whenever we talk about the ultra-high end of horology, the discussion … ContinuedThe post The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence brings American craftsmanship roaring back appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having made a name for himself as a guillocheur, Joshua Shapiro has taken things a step further with the launch of the Resurgence, the most thoroughly American-made wristwatch since 1969. The Resurgence offers several features that are unique within the increasingly crowded field of high-end independent watchmaking. It is a customisable product that offers an almost unlimited number of dial, case, and movement combinations; it’s possible that no two watches will be alike. Almost every aspect of the watch, from the elaborate guilloche dial, engine-turned case, and customisable in-house movement, is surprisingly interesting and original. Initial Thoughts I first met Joshua in 2019 after the launch of the Infinity Series, and even then he was keen to discuss his vision for creating an in-house American-made movement that would live up to the quality of his guilloche work. But I must admit the Resurgence has exceeded my expectations, especially in terms of finishing. As a guilloche specialist, Joshua does not disappoint with the multi-part guilloche dial. Its construction reminds me of the dial found in the Roger W. Smith GREAT Britain, a one-off watch made in 2015 for the British government’s tourism campaign of the same name. But while the construction is similar, the Resurgence dial possesses its own aesthetic that steps out from the shadow of Swiss or British-style guilloche. At US$85,000 in gold and US$70,000 in steel, the Resurgence is priced at the upper end of the ...
SJX Watches
After covering the notable in the upcoming auction of an impressive single-owner collection, we now turn to the highlights in Christie’s main sale, Important Watches. Made up of 159 lots, the sale encompasses a remarkable line-up of Patek Philippe timepieces, from the quirky and historically important, like the brand’s smallest-known repeater, to the contemporary and magnificent Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002R featuring a special-order black dial. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. But the most significant watch in the sale is undoubtedly the ref. 2523 world time with a cloisonné dial depicting the North American continent, one of three known to exist. Given its importance and value, the ref. 2523 will be sold as the sole lot in a dedicated auction. The ref. 2523 will be sold at 7:00 pm on May 28 – more can be found here. The ref. 2523 with a cloisonné dial Lot 2306: Patek Philippe Pocket Watch with the Smallest Known Repeater Compact yet exceptional, this Patek Philippe pocket watch dates to 1888 and is just 24.5 mm in diameter. According to Christie’s, this pocket watch is smallest known minute repeater ever made by Patek Philippe. It was most likely commissioned by a Spanish or Latin American customer, as indicated by the margins on the movement in Spanish. This pocket watch has a white enamel dial with Roman numerals in black for the hours and oversized minute numerals in gilt print. Several hai...
Time+Tide
One of the original champions of the geometrical, integrated-bracelet watch design is Baume & Mercier, first entering that market with the 1973 Riviera. Its dodecagonal bezel and minimal dial layout were designed by Jean-Claude Gueit, preceding many integrated-bracelet icons by some years. David Chaumet has been steering the Baume & Mercier ship since 2019, and … ContinuedThe post “Just created, 50 years ago” – Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet recalls the Riviera story appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 tames the beastly watch into a friendlier package. The case has been refined for comfort and accessibility. Its dial has also been simplified for a calmer appearance with no loss of spirit. The Hamilton brand has a long-standing history in supplying both militaries and Hollywood with task-specific watches, and … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin’s original Freak shook the watch-o-sphere to the core when unveiled at Basel in 2001. It was like nothing anyone had seen before; a complete reimagining of how a watch can function and display time where there was no crown, no dial and no hands. Seemingly so complex with a gear train sprawled across … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Freak One is a super-freak and chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki” will be the last Calendrier I produced As an Anniversary model the watch is not a limited edition, it is time limited with all successful orders honoured The first Kurono dial to be made of phosphor-bronze, the case’s water-resistance is raised to 50m Cards on the table, I have … ContinuedThe post New Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ : アズキ is your last chance to purchase the model – but it is not limited! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Omega began teasing a new watch on their social media channels in the last few days, and while it was immediately pretty clear we’d be getting a new Worldtimer of some sort, the finer details were very much left a mystery. The existing Worldtimer has become a bit of a cult favorite since its release. It has a truly useful complication, and a dial that is undeniably stunning when you see it in person. The representation of earth as viewed from above the North Pole is a worldtimer trope, and there are a lot of ways to execute it, but few brands give you the detail that Omega can. That said, the watch has always been a little on the large side, and a new colorway is always welcome. Speculation ensued that a smaller version of the Worldtimer might be hitting boutiques, but what we got instead is a material change, along with a hard lean into green, which might no longer be the color of the moment, but seems to suit this particular watch just fine. What we have in this release is actually a trio of new watches: two references in stainless steel (one on a bracelet, the other a strap), and a completely new version of the watch in titanium. Let’s tackle the steel watches first. These follow the same 43mm format as the existing Worldtimer (the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer, to be more precise), but substitute the familiar blue dial for one in a PVD coated green. The dials here have a light sun-brushed finish, and dial accents (hands and hour markers) are in Moonshine Gold. ...
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The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT Sled Driver pays tribute to the legendary life of Brian Shul. The dial features an SR-71 Blackbird, which Shul flew towards the end of his career. Three colour options across two case sizes offer versatile options. There are all kinds of watches that have stories, whether it’s a famous piece … ContinuedThe post The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT Sled Driver honours a legendary pilot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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No matter how exquisite the finishing, how innovative the escapement, or how beautiful the colour of the dial, unfortunately these days the worth of a watch can be far more literal in the eyes of the broader marketplace. Outside of the scope of die-hard watch geekdom, a watch is only alluring as its value on … ContinuedThe post First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
At Watches and Wonders 2022, Martin Green was impressed with the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer, a striking watch with a yellow gold case and a forest-green dial. So he made a little video for Instagram that went viral. Here he explains why.
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The Bulgari Aluminium collection has been expanded with bigger cases and new colours. The Capri Solotempo and Chronograph evoke the Italian island with an electric-blue gradient dial. The Match Point Edition adds a subtle touch of green for tennis lovers. The Bulgari Aluminium has always been a stealth watch, not because it has any degree … ContinuedThe post The new Bulgari Aluminium collection adds bigger cases and fresh colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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