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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

INTRODUCING: Le Diptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein collab is colourful, playful and fun Time+Tide
Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein collab Apr 27, 2022

INTRODUCING: Le Diptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein collab is colourful, playful and fun

It’s fair to say that the watchmaking industry is often pretty uptight as a whole. Companies like Swatch and Hublot try to inject some fun into the hobby, but what if you want something with luxury build quality that won’t cost tens of thousands? Louis Erard’s manifesto of bringing artwork into mechanical watchmaking for an … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Le Diptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein collab is colourful, playful and fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week Time+Tide
Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe Apr 27, 2022

Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week

It’s easy to understand the dangerous appeal of online auction platform, Loupe This. For a start, it’s co-owned by internationally renowned watch dealer / super-collector, Eric Ku (read this story about his crazy life here). As a result of his know-how and connections, the product on offer is always intriguing. “What we want to do, is … ContinuedThe post Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s Sets Record for Most Expensive Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2499 Sotheby’s just Apr 27, 2022

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s Sets Record for Most Expensive Patek Philippe Ref. 2499

Sotheby’s just concluded the first sale of the spring auction season, which now moves to Geneva with a series of auctions in the Swiss city starting the first weekend of May. The season opened strongly with several records set at Sotheby’s, most notably with The Nevadian Collector, a sale of Patek Philippe timepieces all owned by an American collector. Made up of 38 watches and one lot of vintage Gay Freres bracelets, the auction was led by an unsurprising favourite that sold for a record price – the possibly unique ref. 2499 in pink gold with a dial signed “Gobbi Milano”. Sotheby’s consultant Sam Hines bringing the hammer down on the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” Four telephone bidders competed for the watch, with bidding swift and aggressive. One of the bidders went big early on, taking the bid from HK$19 million to HK$30 million with one bid – an increment of about US$1.4 million. Eventually one of the phone bidders triumphed and set the record for the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction. The pink ref. 2499 “Gobbi” hammered for HK$50 million, resulting in a total of HK$60.265 million including the buyer’s premium. That’s equivalent to about US$7.68 million, making it the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction by some margin. The last record holder was the ref. 2499 “Asprey” that sold in 2018 for about US$ 4 million at Sotheby’s in Geneva – which was also sold by the Nevadian. While the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” was the headline lot,...

Ineichen to auction unique Konstantin Chaykin Joker, Porsche 911 and NFT set on April 30 Time+Tide
Konstantin Chaykin Apr 26, 2022

Ineichen to auction unique Konstantin Chaykin Joker, Porsche 911 and NFT set on April 30

In May 2021, Ineichen sold the world’s most-expensive NFT token for a watch. With a final hammer price of CHF 52,080, Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker NFT, which depicts all the possible combinations of a Joker watch, became a world record-holder. On April 30, in their first-ever timed auction, Ineichen looks to once again appeal to bidders … ContinuedThe post Ineichen to auction unique Konstantin Chaykin Joker, Porsche 911 and NFT set on April 30 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This SJX Watches
Cartier Apr 25, 2022

Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This

Online-only watch auctioneer Loupe This has just announced a week of Cartier watches, with two watches being listed daily from April 25 to 29. The lineup is headlined by an original Crash made by Cartier London in 1969 that comes direct from the original owner no less. It has an appropriate hefty estimate of US$500,000-800,000. London Crash Some of the other highlights in the sale include a trio of white-metal Tanks, including a Tank Asymetrique in platinum, one of a hundred made in 1996. Estimated at US$30,000-50,000, it’s smaller than the recent Prive Tank Asymetrique, with dimensions comparable to the classic Tank LC, which is the next watch. Tank Asymétrique This is a rare variant of an otherwise common watch. Produced for several decades in a range of iterations, the Tank Louis Cartier, or “LC”, is commonly found in yellow gold, but less often in white gold, and rarely with a period-correct bracelet. Dating to the 1970s, this has an estimate of US$20,000-30,000. Tank LC Another Tank from the 1970s is this Tank Cintree “Jumbo”, also in white gold and once again with a matching gold bracelet. This is the largest size of arguably the most desirable Tank model, but made slightly more affordable by the fact that it was made in the 1970s instead of the first decades of the 20th century. The estimate is US$50,000-80,000. Tank Cintree The first pair go live on Monday, April 25, Los Angeles time (GMT-7), which will be April 26 for most of the world. You can see them...

‘Keeper Of Time’: Superb Full-Length Feature Documentary On Time And Watchmaking Premiering On April 28, 2022 Quill & Pad
Apr 24, 2022

‘Keeper Of Time’: Superb Full-Length Feature Documentary On Time And Watchmaking Premiering On April 28, 2022

Back in December 2020 a teaser trailer was released for a then-upcoming feature documentary called 'Keeper of Time.' Elizabeth Doerr was quite excited by the trailer and couldn’t wait for its final release. Well, that release has finally come, and she has had the chance to preview it. She shares her (very positive) thoughts about the film here.

Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week Time+Tide
Apr 24, 2022

Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week

Years ago, when I watched the documentary The Watchmaker’s Apprentice, which details the journey of George Daniels and the path of watchmaker Roger W. Smith becoming his sole apprentice, I remember being awe-struck at the meticulous art of watchmaking and  the perseverance required to achieve mastery in the field. Since that documentary, however, there have not … ContinuedThe post Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A funky take on serious watchmaking with new Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie models Time+Tide
Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie models Apr 24, 2022

A funky take on serious watchmaking with new Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie models

Named after Czapek’s third boutique – as it was the third collection released by the brand – the Czapek and Cie Faubourg de Cracovie is the company’s take on an integrated chronograph. It follows the brand ethos of intricately finished dials in vivid colours, and the Purple Panda and California Blue models we look at … ContinuedThe post A funky take on serious watchmaking with new Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter: Concentrically Colorful Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter Concentrically Apr 23, 2022

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter: Concentrically Colorful

Rarely has the term sports watch been as appropriate as when applied to the BR 03-94 Multimeter from Bell & Ross. This nifty chronograph displays five different scales on the dial to measure various things. In that sense, it is a modern-day version of the vintage chronographs with “snail scales” that did the same, though not in such an elaborate way.

Highlights: Patek Philippe and Rolex at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Apr 23, 2022

Highlights: Patek Philippe and Rolex at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

Sotheby’s is kicking off the spring season of the year’s watch auctions with two consecutive sales in Hong Kong that take place in a week’s time. The first is an evening sale of a single-owner collection of exceptional vintage Patek Philippe watches. And it will be followed by Important Watches I, which includes several good examples of independent watchmaking. Though the single-owner sale has most of the significant vintage Patek Philippe watches offered by Sotheby’s, it doesn’t encompass all of them. One of the major lots is a Patek Philippe ref. 2524 minute repeating wristwatch. We take a look at that along with several other highlights from Important Watches I, both vintage and modern, including an arguably underrated complicated (and bejewelled) watch for men by Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;). Important Watches I starts at 2:00 pm (GMT +8) on April 26, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The VC&A; Midnight Poetic Wish Lot 2144: Rolex Daytona ref. 16523 “Floating” signed “Tiffany & Co.” The most desirable Rolex Daytonas are typically steel, with the two-tone versions often being the most affordable, perhaps because the two-tone look is generally less sought after regardless of brand. But this steel-and-gold ref. 16523 is notable enough that it was included in Daytona Perpetual, the reference tome covering many rare and unusual variants of the model published by Italian Rolex specialist Pucci Papaleo. The key fe...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Nothing like a good ol’ impromptu watch meetup Time+Tide
Apr 22, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Nothing like a good ol’ impromptu watch meetup

Hey there. It’s Ricardo again with another Friday Wind Down takeover. It was only a matter of time before I would be back for Zach and this week, provided the perfect opportunity to steal the reins. This past Monday, I met up with some #watchfam for a last minute dinner hosted by Derek (@theminutemon) for … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Nothing like a good ol’ impromptu watch meetup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

6 Super-Cool Yet Relatively Affordable Timepieces From Watches And Wonders 2022 Quill & Pad
Apr 21, 2022

6 Super-Cool Yet Relatively Affordable Timepieces From Watches And Wonders 2022

Most of the timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2022 were from the higher end of fine watchmaking as most of the participants constitute the haute horlogerie maisons of the world. There were however a few notable exceptions – notable and affordable. Here Łukasz Doskocz highlights some of the showstoppers from the Palexpo halls that will hopefully not break your bank.

William Wood is raffling a motorbike, we also raffled a motorbike. Which one is better? Time+Tide
Apr 21, 2022

William Wood is raffling a motorbike, we also raffled a motorbike. Which one is better?

START YOUR ENGINES:  In 2018, we had a little dalliance with the brand that used to inhabit our HQ space, and now lives next door: Royal Enfield. Basically, we had a few beers one afternoon and found some matte-black, lightly modded common ground between watches and vintage-inspired bikes. The result: a Time+Tide motorcycle, later raffled off … ContinuedThe post William Wood is raffling a motorbike, we also raffled a motorbike. Which one is better? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

F1 driver Charles Leclerc robbed of $430k Richard Mille in throng of fans Time+Tide
Richard Mille Apr 20, 2022

F1 driver Charles Leclerc robbed of $430k Richard Mille in throng of fans

RICHARD MELEE: Richard Mille is indisputably one of the most sought-after brands in the sporting wold, with superstar athletes across a huge range of disciplines wearing and promoting them. Unfortunately for such athletes, a Richard Mille is also highly sought-after by thieves, given that their value is more often than not in the hundreds of … ContinuedThe post F1 driver Charles Leclerc robbed of $430k Richard Mille in throng of fans appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Boxer Amir Khan robbed at gun point for £72,000 Franck Muller Vanguard Chronograph Time+Tide
Franck Muller Apr 19, 2022

Boxer Amir Khan robbed at gun point for £72,000 Franck Muller Vanguard Chronograph

Amir Khan has become the latest celebrity victim of watch crime after the British boxer was robbed at gun-point in London last night. The former world champion posted on Twitter that he and his wife, Faryal Makhdoom, were recovering after being confronted by two men in East London with his diamond-encrusted Franck Muller snatched in the robbery. … ContinuedThe post Boxer Amir Khan robbed at gun point for £72,000 Franck Muller Vanguard Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Apr 19, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

Sotheby’s forthcoming Important Watches I in Hong Kong is the first live auction of the year by a major auction house, or so accurately it’s the second day of the auction, with the sale of a mega, single-owner Patek Philippe collection happening in the evening the day before. With the strong demand for independent watchmaking, the 214-lots sale encompasses timepieces from a range of niche and not-so-niche indies. The lineup is naturally led by F.P. Journe, perhaps the marquee name in independent watchmaking today, but the most valuable lot is the very rare and very expensive Montre École, one of 11 watches born of the Naissance d’une Montre project backed by Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour. We round up six highlights from amongst the independent watchmakers at the sale, which starts at 2:00 pm (GMT +8) on April 26, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Montre École no. 09/11 Lot 2127: H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Having been business partners for a decade or so – Moser’s sister company supplies hairsprings to MB&F; – the two brands revealed their first collaboration in 2020 when both coincidentally celebrated their 15th anniversary. The more complicated of the two anniversary editions, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon was more Moser than MB&F; with its dial colour and movement, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. The Cylindrical Tourbillon combines the best of both brands. The aesthe...

Why Fortis is sending their latest new movement into space Time+Tide
Fortis Apr 19, 2022

Why Fortis is sending their latest new movement into space

Fortis is no stranger to outer space. The 1962 Spacematic presented to Gemini astronauts paved the way for Fortis’ space-dwelling endeavours, before partnering cosmonaut expeditions between 1992 and 2003 and achieving the ultimate goal of sending a watch into space. Now, some three decades later, Fortis launch an in-house chronograph movement, the WERK 17, both … ContinuedThe post Why Fortis is sending their latest new movement into space appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Aiôn Attempts to Reestablish French Watchmaking SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Apr 17, 2022

Business News: Aiôn Attempts to Reestablish French Watchmaking

Just as the biggest watch fair of the year opened its doors in Switzerland earlier in April, an industrial-scale watchmaking enterprise was born in France. Conceived as a vertically-integrated watchmaking group that makes movements for its own brands Aiôn Group, wants to establish “Made in France” as a key segment in a luxury-watch arena that’s dominated by Swiss, German, and Japanese players. Backed by government funding, Aiôn has the ambitious goal of producing 400,000 movements per year by 2025 in its new manufacture on the Mediterranean coast near Marseille. Although Aiôn has kept mum about the origins of its industrial capability, it is well known within the Swiss watch industry that the French group took over Swiss movement maker Felsa-Leschot, which was then moved lock, stock, and barrel to France. [Update April 20, 2022: Respected Swiss newspaper Le Temps published an article expressing scepticism about Aiôn, especially about the movement “factory” that Aiôn acquired. The article references the factory owner’s chequered history and involvement in multiple lawsuits. We believe the doubts expressed by the writer at Le Temps are well founded and would encourage everyone to read the article of March 16.] A Swiss foundation One of Aiôn’s founders is Anthony Simao, a French watchmaker who started his career in Swiss watchmaking, having worked at Breitling, Audemars Piguet, and Chronode. He then founded French watch brand Lornet, which has been merge...