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Maurice de Mauriac Introduces the Rallymaster III, Inspired by the Lawn Courts of Wimbledon Worn & Wound
Jul 5, 2024

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces the Rallymaster III, Inspired by the Lawn Courts of Wimbledon

I don’t know about you, but after seeing Challengers, I’ve been on a tennis kick lately. Having discovered the sport late in life, I’m now ravenously consuming all things tennis. So when I heard that Maurice de Mauriac has partnered with Racquet Magazine for the next iteration of their Rallymaster, I had to take a look. Like previous models, the Rallymaster III combines vintage elements with a clever eye for details, thanks to designer Carlton DeWoody’s playful touch points throughout the watch. With Wimbledon being the inspiration for this model (previous points of reference included Roland Garros and the US Open), there is a level of retro charm to this one that carries the theme throughout the watch. Most notably in this new reference, we have an olive-green dial that’s reminiscent of lawn courts and the use of 18-carat gold, giving the watch an overall elegant finish while still being playful. I’m particularly fond of the tennis ball indices and the seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, which features 20 second increments (the traditional tennis serve time). Finally, playing into British design language, DeWoody incorporates tan-colored straps to complete the ‘green over tan’ look, a favorite among British vintage and luxury car enthusiasts. Of the overall design, DeWoody says, “I aimed to bridge past and present, reinterpreting classic design with a contemporary lens. The colorful sub-dials and patterning of yachting and racing dials were the perfect insp...

Baltic Adds New Watches to their Micro-Rotor Collection Worn & Wound
Baltic Adds New Watches Jul 4, 2024

Baltic Adds New Watches to their Micro-Rotor Collection

Three years after the debut of the MR01, Baltic has updated their popular micro-rotor movement powered dress watch line in a big way. The new MR Roulette collection, which debuts today, offers a new take on the platform with a slightly more casual, sector dial inspired layout. Coming on the heels of the Prismic collection, a series of watches that drew intense reactions in all directions, the MR Roulette feels like a return to the aesthetic that made Baltic the brand they are today, with modest vintage cues, a mixing of textures, and an enticing price point.  The MR Roulette is built on the same foundation of previous micro-rotor powered watches in Baltic’s catalog. It has a 36mm steel case with a flat, vertically brushed bezel and lugs that are brushed in a complementary circular pattern. The case is accented with tasteful polishing on the bezel wall, and measures an easy to wear 44mm from lug to lug. If you’ve ever tried on the original MR01, you know that this case truly wears like a vintage watch, not only its proportions, but it has a light and airy quality to it as well. It measures just 9.9mm tall, but feels thinner because nearly 2mm of that height is taken up by the domed hesalite crystal.  The new dials are available in salmon, silver, blue, and black variants. All but the black feature a grained background paired with two brushed sectors: an interior track for the hours, and an exterior track for the minutes. The running seconds subdial is off-center, cove...

Industry News – Louis Ferla Appointed CEO of Cartier, Replaces Cyrille Vigneron Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Jul 2, 2024

Industry News – Louis Ferla Appointed CEO of Cartier, Replaces Cyrille Vigneron

Following the appointment a few weeks ago of Nicolas Bos as the new CEO of the Richemont Group (replacing Jérôme Lambert), the luxury conglomerate once again announces changes in managing positions, with a new CEO for its jewellery/watchmaking brand Cartier. Effective 1st September 2024, Louis Ferla (ex-Vacheron Constantin) will take over Cyrille Vigneron as Chief […]

Hands-On: the Beaufort Pulsatimer Worn & Wound
Jun 18, 2024

Hands-On: the Beaufort Pulsatimer

So far 2024 is a year where brands have been belting out bombastic bangers of watches one after another. So, when a different take on a beloved complication is dropped, we naturally crane our necks to peek at what’s new. The first Swiss chronograph in New Zealand based Beaufort’s lineup highlights the old school idea of a doctor/medic’s watch with a pulsometer as the primary complication. It takes this complication and sets it inside a case and dial that are elegant, yet industrial, but some of the changes made to the chronograph functionality caused me to ask some questions.  The Beaufort Pulsatimer, upon quick inspection, might look like your average chrono, but the longer you linger over its construction, the more you’ll start to notice its unique styling. The case is almost totally brushed, with the exception of thinly polished chamfered edges and a polished inner bezel ring. The polished ring steps up from a brushed base bezel ring like the watch is laying its own foundation. And rising once more from the step bezel is a significantly raised box sapphire crystal. All this architecture pulls your eye into a dial that dramatically drops from the crystal with the sloped pulsometer chapter ring. Then we find a beautiful, vertically brushed copper-colored dial that Beaufort calls “Salmon.” They also have an all black, DLC coated version, a reverse panda black and silver dial, and an all silver dial version of the Pulsatimer. The architectural nuances of the ca...

Hands-On With The New Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Automatic Fratello
Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Automatic Jun 11, 2024

Hands-On With The New Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Automatic

On the 10th anniversary of the Escale collection, Louis Vuitton introduces its new Escale Time-Only Automatic watch with caliber LFT023. Four new references are available, each with a 39mm case in rose gold or platinum and a leather strap. Louis Vuitton Escale Many of us, including yours truly, have been craving more new dress watches. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Automatic to read the full article.

Vintage Watches: The Omega CK976 With A Glorious T17 Movement Fratello
Omega CK976 Jun 9, 2024

Vintage Watches: The Omega CK976 With A Glorious T17 Movement

Today, we’ll look at a charming little Omega CK976. It’s a lovely watch on the outside, but the inner workings are just as notable if not more so. This tank from 1939 is equipped with the caliber T17, a movement worthy of a place in anyone’s vintage collection. When considering vintage Omega watches and their […] Visit Vintage Watches: The Omega CK976 With A Glorious T17 Movement to read the full article.

Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Grad Gift Guide Worn & Wound
May 29, 2024

Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Grad Gift Guide

As graduation season comes to an end, we thought we’d throw one more gift guide down the hatch during our DADS AND GRADS SALE to offer inspiration and ideas. New graduates take on a new world full of adventure and hope, and these products should help them settle nicely and tackle whatever comes their way. The Windup Watch Shop sends all the new grads out there a hearty congratulations and best wishes for what’s ahead! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. Furthermore, all of the products listed here are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US.  As graduation season comes to an end, we thought we’d throw one more gift guide down the hatch during our DADS AND GRADS SALE to offer inspiration and ideas. New graduates take on a new world full of adventure and hope, and these products should help them settle nicely and tackle whatever comes their way. The Windup Watch Shop sends all the new grads out there a hearty congratulations and best wishes for what’s ahead! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. Furthermore, all of the products listed here are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US.  The post Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Grad Gift Guide appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hanhart Marks an Important Aviation Anniversary with their Latest Release Worn & Wound
May 28, 2024

Hanhart Marks an Important Aviation Anniversary with their Latest Release

In honor of the 50th anniversary of the Tornado aircraft’s maiden flight, Hanhart, in collaboration with PANAVIA Aircraft, created the 417 ES Tornado Limited Edition. This exclusive timepiece, limited to just 148 pieces, is a tribute to the historic first flight on August 14, 1974. The Tornado aircraft, a symbol of European defense cooperation, took to the skies for the first time with a British-German crew, marking a significant milestone in aviation history. To commemorate this event, Hanhart has crafted a watch that combines both vintage and modern aesthetics into one chronograph. The 417 ES Tornado Limited Edition features a stainless steel case housing the reliable Swiss Made Sellita AMT 5100 M Flyback movement, offering a power reserve of up to 58 hours. The dial is adorned with the cockade colors of Germany, Italy, and the United Kingdom, paying homage to the partner nations involved in the Tornado project. Its rotating fluted bezel and luminous hands and indices in Old Radium color enhance its vintage charm. The case measures 39mm in diameter and is 13.3mm tall.  This chronograph stands out with its historical design elements, including the bi-compax layout, and the iconic red markings. The finely polished chamfers and anti-reflective convex sapphire glass add to its elegance and functionality. It’s water-resistant up to 10 bar and comes with a black calfskin strap. Priced at 2,590€, the watch is available at Hanhart’s website now. Images from this post: T...

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Atwood Hand-Wind Chronograph SJX Watches
Tudor Monte Carlo But May 23, 2024

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Atwood Hand-Wind Chronograph

Oak & Oscar has just launched its second chronograph, the Atwood, a modern take on vintage racing chronographs that’s powered by a manually wound Sellita AMT5100M. The movement is a derivative of the Valjoux 7750 that has a few tricks up its sleeve, namely a column wheel and flyback functionality. Chicago-based Oak & Oscar was founded in 2015, making it part of the early wave of ‘micro brands.’ Over the past nine years, the brand has managed to develop its own recognisable minimalist aesthetic across a range of versatile go-anywhere, do-anything sports watches. Initial Thoughts I tend to be fond of Oak & Oscar’s designs, and a lot of that has to do with the expert use of colour. The Atwood is offered in three colourways that are each appealing in their own right, and will feel familiar to fans of the brand. The brand’s signature orange seconds hand is complemented by matching accents on the sub-dials, a stylistic choice that evokes sporty ’70s chronographs like the Tudor Monte Carlo. But the design still manages to feel fresh, thanks in part to the brand’s own strikingly modern typeface. The Atwood is the brand’s second chronograph, after the Jackson which debuted in 2017. The Atwood addresses one of the few shortcomings of the Jackson, which is the latter’s 14.5 mm case thickness. The 39 mm Atwood is comparatively slim at just 12.9 mm, a figure that includes the domed sapphire crystal, meaning that visually it will appear even thinner. While the dimensio...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Finally Adds their Geographic Complication to the Polaris Collection Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Finally Adds their Geographic May 21, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Finally Adds their Geographic Complication to the Polaris Collection

There are few brands that the watch community collectively holds in higher esteem than Jaeger-LeCoultre. Think about the truly historic names in watchmaking and you’ll find vocal groups of detractors for just about every single one. But JLC is different, and always seems to be above the fray. The “watchmaker’s watchmaker” stuff is a clever bit of marketing, but it’s actually true, and keeps the brand both insulated from the watch world’s hot-take culture protected by legitimate ties to some of the most important watches ever made. But if there’s one thing, one very small thing that enthusiasts and collectors can poke at with Jaeger-LeCoultre, it’s their recent fumbling in the area of sports oriented watches.  Now, you might be saying to yourself that JLC just isn’t a “sports watch” brand, and that refined dress watches and expert technical watchmaking is their brand and butter. Of course that’s true, but JLC has made great sports watches in the past with innovative cases and movements by their own design made to be robust enough for nearly any activity. It’s a genre they’ve played in for decades. The Reverso, of course, now thought of as a dress piece, was originally conceived for polo players. If you do a Chrono24 search for Memovox references from the 1970s you’ll find no shortage of oversized, funky, cases. And of course we can’t forget the last great sports watch line Jaeger-LeCoultre had, the impressively overbuilt Master Compressor co...

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Spring 2024 Part II SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie ref 6301A May 17, 2024

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Spring 2024 Part II

The spring auction season in Geneva started dramatically enough with a cyberattack at Christie’s that took down its website and app. Only Watch went ahead as scheduled, however, and raised over CHF28.3 million, with most of that coming from the Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301A that sold for CHF15.7 million. What transpired at Only Watch also played out in the subsequent auctions over the weekend. The live sales at the four auction houses, Antiquorum, Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s, sold almost CHF85 million of watches, including fees (excluding Only Watch). This compared to over well CHF110 million for Geneva’s fall season last year. Although the sale season six months ago was buoyed by an extra live auction at Christie’s (that was subject of much chatter), the diminished total for this season reflects the state of the market. The waning sentiment was palpable in all the salerooms. That said, the auctions did throw up a handful of grand surprises, including CHF3.13 million for the Patek Philippe ref. 605 HU world time pocket watch with cloisonné enamel dial at Antiquorum, and CHF1.16 million for the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I at Phillips. Christie’s sold the most expensive wristwatch this season with CHF2.47 million for a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 “pink on pink” (above), though Antiquorum claimed the title for most valuable timepiece with its ref. 605 HU pocket watch. Image – Christie’s The good and great indies One of the ...

Introducing: The Kurono Tokyo 2024 Anniversary Reiwa - Its Final Spot In The Limelight Fratello
Kurono Tokyo 2024 Anniversary Reiwa - May 16, 2024

Introducing: The Kurono Tokyo 2024 Anniversary Reiwa - Its Final Spot In The Limelight

Many of us have developed a deep affinity for Hajime Asaoka’s Art Deco lines and Kurono Tokyo sub-brand. The story of Asaoka-san creating Kurono Tokyo so that he could actually wear one of his designs never gets old. In fact, it only deepens my respect for him. Now the Japanese watchmaker closes a circle by […] Visit Introducing: The Kurono Tokyo 2024 Anniversary Reiwa - Its Final Spot In The Limelight to read the full article.

Road-Testing The Baltic Tricompax × Tour Auto 2024 On Two Stages Of The Classic Car Rally Across France Fratello
Baltic Tricompax × Tour Auto May 11, 2024

Road-Testing The Baltic Tricompax × Tour Auto 2024 On Two Stages Of The Classic Car Rally Across France

There is an inescapable bond between chronographs and the world of motorsport. Many of the most celebrated examples take their names from races like the Carrera Panamericana or the Daytona 500. So what better way to test the new Baltic Tricompax × Tour Auto 2024 edition than on the race that gives it its name? […] Visit Road-Testing The Baltic Tricompax × Tour Auto 2024 On Two Stages Of The Classic Car Rally Across France to read the full article.

Tudor Black Bay: A Comprehensive Guide to the Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor May 7, 2024

Tudor Black Bay: A Comprehensive Guide to the Collection

The Tudor Black Bay took watch fandom by storm when it hit the market in 2012 and the sporty, vintage-inspired divers' watch has since grown into an extensive family with something for just about everyone, now boasting in-house calibers, multiple styles and sizes, and even some precious metals and complications. In this comprehensive guide we explore the origins of the Tudor Black Bay and showcase the standout models you can buy right now.  FOUNDATIONS OF TUDOR With an eye toward making watches that would be affordable while still maintaining a high level of quality, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf registered the Tudor brand trademark in 1926, and began running the Tudor company as a subsidiary brand of Rolex in 1946. Tudor watches were the only watches on the market at the time that featured reliable third-party movements inside the famed waterproof Rolex Oyster case, also developed in 1926, and were initially more geared toward the tool watch market than were Rolex timepieces, which already enjoyed a reputation as luxury items. The first Tudor watch with the “Oyster” name followed shortly after the launch of the brand, in 1947, kicking off a long tradition of timepieces suitable for underwater adventure. The first Tudor Prince model followed in 1952, around the same time that Tudor began an R&D; partnership with the French Navy (Marine Nationale), from which would emerge the brand’s first dive watch. THE OYSTER PRINCE SUBMARINER The Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, Tu...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 4, 2024

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva

With the current popularity of independent watchmaking, the proportion of auction catalogues dedicated to the genre has grown. At the same time, the obvious slowdown in the market means prices have moderated. The result is a more diverse offering of independent watchmaking, and at lower prices than 18 months ago. The upcoming Phillips’ Geneva auction illustrates this. We take a look at some of the notable examples of independent watchmaking, including a Middle East edition from F.P. Journe, a glow-in-the-dark Voutilainen World Timer, and a trio of time-only watches that are all interesting yet entirely different from Philippe Dufour, Paul Gerber, and Charles Frodsham. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX takes place over two days on May 11 and 12 the Hotel President in downtown Geneva (a change from the traditional venue of La Reserve). The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. 62 – F.P. Journe lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante Eastern-Arabic numerals Notably good value in titanium, the lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante is less affordable in platinum but certainly more special, and much more substantial. While the titanium and gold versions are relatively conventional in terms of aesthetics, the platinum version is unusual with its purple dial that works surprisingly well. Like most F.P. Journe movements, the calibre inside is slim, a feat considering the additional height required for the rattrapante mechanism. The split-seconds is done in the traditional manner with...

Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2024 Debrief Fratello
May 2, 2024

Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2024 Debrief

Hello, and welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Today, we wrap up our Watches and Wonders 2024 coverage with a debrief episode featuring Nacho, Thomas, and Lex. The guys take some time to go over some brands (and their corresponding releases) that we missed in episode one. They also discuss the general mood […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2024 Debrief to read the full article.

Business News: Greubel Forsey Gets New CEO SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Gets New CEO Greubel Apr 30, 2024

Business News: Greubel Forsey Gets New CEO

Greubel Forsey has just announced a change of leadership, with Michel Nydegger assuming the role of chief executive officer. Interestingly, the current chief executive officer, Antonio Calce, will then become a vice president starting August 2024. Mr Nydegger joined the brand eight years ago and rose to his present role of head of marketing and communications in 2021, shortly after Mr Calce took over. Mr Nydegger was part of the team that supercharged Greubel Forsey’s revenue and profitability, and embarked on an expansion of its “inclined” manufacture, thanks in part to a bestselling line of sports watches introduced by Mr Calce. According to the company, despite the management changes, “Greubel Forsey will remain independent, with Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, and Antonio Calce continuing as shareholders.” The significance of this leadership transition at Greubel Forsey is not yet publicly known, although there has been talk that the brand is seeking new investors. The company’s ownership structure was simplified in 2022 when Richemont sold its 20% stake to Messrs Greubel, Forsey, and Calce. One rumoured scenario is that a consortium led by a well-known industry personality is taking over Greubel Forsey, something that may be announced in fall 2024.  

Introducing – The BBS-Inspired Union Glashütte Noramis Date Deutschland Klassik 2024 Monochrome
Glashütte Original Union Glashütte Apr 22, 2024

Introducing – The BBS-Inspired Union Glashütte Noramis Date Deutschland Klassik 2024

Part of the Swatch Group and close to sister brand Glashütte Original, Union Glashütte is a slightly more accessible take on German watchmaking, with a younger, sportier appeal – but still with great horological content. Over the years, the brand has built a strong connection with the world of classic cars. A partner of the […]

An Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope for the Paris 2024 Olympics SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Apr 17, 2024

An Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope for the Paris 2024 Olympics

Omega just released a new take on its Speedmaster with a vintage-inspired dial for the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympics that begins 100 days from now. Available in Moonshine Gold or stainless steel, the Speedmaster Chronoscope “Paris Olympics 2024” features a silver dial with black registers, along with solid gold numerals and gold-plated hands. Initial thoughts Omega is known for the many commemorative timepieces to mark the Olympics over the years, with the most recent one being Seamaster Diver 300m Paris Olympics Edition. A variety of Omega models have received the Olympics treatment, so the appeal really depends on the specific model, rather than the commemorative aspect. The new Chronoscope certainly looks good, with the gold accents on the dial giving it a more vintage feel, particularly on the steel model. That version brings to mind mid-20th century chronographs that combine gilt hands and markers with contrasting steel cases. With only the dial being unique to this edition, it remains chunky at 43 mm. Although large on paper, it is not all that large in reality, due to the short lugs of the Speedmaster case. I would imagine it to wear reasonably well on an averaged-sized wrist, given that the 42 mm Speedmaster Moonwatch wears well across most wrist sizes. The new Chronoscope ranges from US$9,500 to US$51,400, depending on the metal and strap configuration. Although the value proposition is decent for the steel model, the Moonshine gold version is harder to justif...

Introducing – The new Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope to Mark 100 Days to Paris 2024 Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Apr 16, 2024

Introducing – The new Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope to Mark 100 Days to Paris 2024

Released in 2021, the Chronoscope was a surprising take on the classic Speedmaster, combining a large case, a two-counter dial (usually found in larger versions and racing-oriented models) with a vintage-inspired dial bearing no fewer than three snailed-shaped tracks. Untouched since its presentation, which included steel and bronze-gold versions, the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope collection now […]

Public Service Announcement: Save The Vintage Gold Watches Fratello
Apr 13, 2024

Public Service Announcement: Save The Vintage Gold Watches

If you haven’t been watching, gold prices have been on a tear over the past year. Currently, the metal is trading at an all-time high. For lovers of vintage watches made from the precious metal, it’s time to wake up and take action. When bidding at auction on an old gold watch, there’s a good […] Visit Public Service Announcement: Save The Vintage Gold Watches to read the full article.