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The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.

Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary with a New Logo and a Limited Edition Collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/ Worn & Wound
Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary Jun 1, 2023

Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary with a New Logo and a Limited Edition Collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/

Isotope has unveiled a new limited edition, made in collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/ to celebrate the former’s seventh anniversary. I’ve become a pretty big fan of the Isotope design language over the years – brand founder José Miranda has a good eye for color, and is one of only a handful in the industry who dares to inject a bit of humor into his watch designs. Seconde/Seconde/, of course, is all about the jokes, so when I heard there was a collaboration in the works, I was pretty excited to see what would come of it. The end result, the Hydrium Seconde/Seconde/, is surprisingly subtle, but better for it.  The high level brief here is “a Memento Mori watch, without a skull.” That, in and of itself, is kind of funny, at least if you’ve been tracking recent watches that take the Memento Mori as design inspiration. Why a death obsessed watch for a seven year anniversary? Isotope has retired their old logo, and just like life itself, the end of a logo is inevitable. The new logo takes the focus from Isotope’s “i” hand and shifts it toward the lacrima, the tear shape that has become a defining characteristic of the design of every watch they’ve made. The new logo is bolder and more sophisticated to my eye, so yeah, good riddance to the old. A fresh start never hurt anyone.  The design itself makes a few small changes to the familiar Hydrium dive watch platform. The (new) logo now reads “OTOPSIE” (autopsy) rather than “ISOTOPE,” with arrows sh...

VIDEO: Hublot’s colourful Spirit of Big Bang 32 and Yellow Magic Time+Tide
Hublot s colourful Spirit Jun 1, 2023

VIDEO: Hublot’s colourful Spirit of Big Bang 32 and Yellow Magic

Hublot’s bold designs aren’t exactly known for their versatility, but I think a lot of people could be surprised by just how much their style is actually capable of achieving. The Spirit of Big Bang isn’t just a catchy title for Hublot’s tonneau-shaped case design, but rather an example of how the industrial feel and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hublot’s colourful Spirit of Big Bang 32 and Yellow Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 54 SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 54 Just May 30, 2023

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 54

Just launched at Watches & Wonders 2023, the Black Bay 54 is the latest step in the evolution of Tudor’s mainstay line of dive watches. Inspired by the brand’s first dive watch of 1954, the Black Bay 54 is clearly vintage-inspired. But more notably, it is the most compact dive watch in the Tudor catalogue at just 37 mm in diameter, making it one of the brand’s most wearable offerings. Though scaled down in terms of size, the Black Bay 54 still possesses all of the characteristics that define Tudor watches, namely a high-spec in-house movement (with a 70-hour power reserve no less) and affordable price tag. Initial thoughts As I mentioned in the article introducing the watch, the BB54 is perfect for anyone wanting a wearable dive watch that pairs vintage style with corresponding vintage proportions. The minimalist approach is evident not just in the size, but also details like the bezel insert, which has been simplified to feature just five-minute markers.  Despite the familiar vintage aesthetics and clean line that define the Black Bay, the Black Bay 54 (BB54) is compelling. For one, it catches the eye for being noticeably smaller on the wrist than its Black Bay siblings. While it is certainly compact, maybe even small by contemporary standards, the BB54 doesn’t look diminutive on the wrist. Perhaps because of the stark, functional design and “gilt” dial, the BB54 has more presence than its 37 mm would imply. I like the watch very much as it is, but if there w...

Jaeger-LeCoultre focuses on refinement of their elegant collection for Watches & Wonders 2023 Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre focuses May 30, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre focuses on refinement of their elegant collection for Watches & Wonders 2023

The Watches & Wonders stand of Jaeger-LeCoultre is always one of the most attractive exhibitions, as the watchmaker of watchmakers know exactly how to best use their horological status. This year, the Stellar Odyssey collection has made way for a focus on harmony and beauty, with Jaeger-LeCoultre returning to the Reverso Tribute as their basis … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre focuses on refinement of their elegant collection for Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Aquastar Returns to Their Origins with New Model 60 Worn & Wound
Rolex who’s experimental Deep Sea May 30, 2023

Aquastar Returns to Their Origins with New Model 60

In 1960, Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh made their record dive to the bottom of the Mariana Trench within the Trieste bathyscaphe, a feat not equaled until 2012 by James Cameron in the Deepsea Challenger. The story of the Trieste is the stuff of legends, the watch brand we generally associate with the trek is of course, Rolex, who’s experimental Deep Sea Special survived the crushing 10,916 meters of depth strapped to the exterior of the vessel (something they did again with the Deepsea Challenger). Enthusiasts are likely also aware of the Lognines stopwatches aboard the Trieste (as well as Piccard’s own 13ZN Chronograph), but there is another watch tied to this story, and this is the JeanRichard Aquastar 60 worn by Don Walsh. A watch that’s being honored in the release of a new Model 60 by Aquastar this week.  The Aquastar 60 was designed by the brand’s founder, Frédéric Robert in 1958, and represents the earliest design DNA of the storied brand. The new Model 60 captures the spirit of the original in many of the right ways, while carving a new path all its own in the process. The watch falls very much into throwback territory which, these days, has a very blurry boundary between modernity, it seems. Whatever the case, the Model 60 is a simple, sharp diver that embodies many of the base design codes of the genre in the best ways possible. The newest Model 60 gets a lovely skin-diver-esque 37mm steel case with square lug design that places all emphasis on the bus...

Recommended: Watchbox Interviews Indie Watchmaking Aficionado Mike “Shani” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite May 28, 2023

Recommended: Watchbox Interviews Indie Watchmaking Aficionado Mike “Shani”

A prominent figure thanks to his Instagram account documenting his impressive collection of independent watchmaking, Mike “Shani” Shanlikian is an American collector who watches that are widely regarded as the most important in the genre, including the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite, and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain. Mr Shanlikian was recently interviewed by George Mayer, the head of sales at pre-owned watch retailer Watchbox. Himself a watch aficionado (and sporting an F.P. Journe Octa Perpetuelle with matching bracelet), Mr Mayer quizzed Mr Shanlikian on his collection and delved into his motivations for collecting independent watchmaking in the 23-minute video interview. An F.P. Journe tourbillon duo. Image – Mike Shanlikian The Akrivia AK-06 and RRCC I. Image – Mike Shanlikian A few watches from the collection. Image – Mike Shanlikian Watchmaking is a fusion of science and art, according to Mr Shanlikian, who notes in the increasing interest in independent watchmaking was driven by F.P. Journe and comparable brands that rely on traditional methods to create watches. He showcases some favourites from his collection in the video, including the “1 in 30” Chronometer by American watchmaker Keaton Myrick. But the most significant watches are documented in the video are the George Daniels Millennium and Dufour Simplicity, matched by their contemporary counterparts, the Rexhep Rexhepi’s Akrivia AK-06 and Gre...

WHAT IF… TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch moment with a retro Formula 1? Time+Tide
TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch May 28, 2023

WHAT IF… TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch moment with a retro Formula 1?

Welcome to another episode of WHAT IF…, where we ruminate on the alternate reality of a watch industry in a parallel universe. For this installment, we take a look at TAG Heuer’s Formula 1, a legendary part of horological history, famed not for its elevated status, but for its fun-loving appeal to even non-watch people. … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch moment with a retro Formula 1? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Commissioning A Bespoke Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire: A Collector’s Personal Experience (Video) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Grönefeld May 28, 2023

Commissioning A Bespoke Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire: A Collector’s Personal Experience (Video) – Reprise

Dr. William Julien, an experienced watch collector, sent us a link to a video that he and his son, William Alexander Julien, made about the journey of his commissioning of a bespoke Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire. The nine-minute video is very moving and beautifully filmed and edited. I highly recommend that you pour yourself a glass of your favorite tipple and hit play: it will not disappoint.

Cartier: Top 3 favorites from 2023 novelties Deployant
Cartier Top 3 favorites from May 27, 2023

Cartier: Top 3 favorites from 2023 novelties

Discover the exquisite world of Cartier luxury watches, including iconic collections like the Cartier Tank and Cartier Santos. Explore the artistry, craftsmanship, and timeless elegance of these Swiss timepieces, crafted by one of the most prestigious heritage brands in the industry. Delve into the historical significance and innovative designs that have made Cartier a symbol of luxury and sophistication.

TAG Heuer Releases a Trio of New Monacos with Skeleton Dials Ahead of a Big Race Weekend Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Releases May 26, 2023

TAG Heuer Releases a Trio of New Monacos with Skeleton Dials Ahead of a Big Race Weekend

The Monaco Grand Prix is this weekend (be sure to check out Time on Track next week for a full recap) and to celebrate what many consider the marquee race on the F1 circuit, TAG Heuer is releasing a trio of new Monacos with skeleton dials. What? You thought they’d release new Monzas? While a run of new Monacos released to coincide with the race that the watch is named after is perhaps predictable on the part of TAG Heuer, fans of the funky square cased chronograph still have reason to be excited. These Monacos make a very different impression than the more traditional, vintage inspired references that are TAG’s bread and butter, and might even pull new enthusiasts into the world of a watch that has long had an intense cult following.  Somewhat surprisingly, these new Monacos represent the first time this watch has been released with a skeleton dial. According to TAG, the goal here was for a avant garde interpretation of the Monaco, which is fitting as the original watch, when it was released in 1969, was also a representation of the avant garde of its day. A square cased chronograph was well outside the norm, particularly in the racing world, and that first Monaco would have felt like an unusual choice to potential owners in the late 60s and early 70s. Obviously, it caught on, and has developed a following made up of racing enthusiasts, chronograph collectors, and fans of unique and iconic designs. Most notably, of course, the watch was worn by Steve McQueen in the ra...

Halios is Back with a New Limited Edition Made in Collaboration with Topper Jewelers Worn & Wound
Halios May 26, 2023

Halios is Back with a New Limited Edition Made in Collaboration with Topper Jewelers

Halios, Jason Lim’s microbrand that has developed a rabid following over the years, only increasing as new releases have slowed, is releasing a new watch today in a collaboration with Topper Jewelers out of Burlingame, CA. It’s a new Universa, but it incorporates dial elements typically found in the Seaforth, the watch that is in many ways the brand’s calling card. In that sense, it’s a bit of a hybrid, combining several elements of Jason’s design language that have endured over the years.  The Universa has a 38mm stainless steel case that is mostly brushed, but has a classic polished chamfer along the lugs. It has a sculpted, almost architectural feel to it, with wide facets and gentle curves. The bezel-less design gives the watch an old-school, no nonsense sports watch vibe, and it certainly wouldn’t be crazy to note that the watch takes plenty of inspiration from classic tool watches.  It’s the dial, though, that makes this Universa special. It’s a crisp white with hands and hour markers that have been accented in black for maximum contrast. The layout is taken directly from the Seaforth, and includes the same thick, applied hour markers that give the dial an increased sense of depth. Hash marks on the minute scale alternate between blue, yellow, and green, representing natural elements found near Topper’s headquarters in Burlingame (the ocean, northern California sunshine, and giant redwood trees).   Speaking to the intensity of Halios’ followin...

Rolex Milgauss Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex May 26, 2023

Rolex Milgauss Guide

Rolex, as always, made news at Watches & Wonders Geneva back in April with many of the new watches it will be releasing this year (we covered many of them here), but the Swiss luxury brand generated nearly as much buzz with an announcement about a watch that it won’t be making anymore. Back in March, Rolex announced that the Milgauss, a model it had been making continuously since 2007, with roots that go back even further, would cease production this year. The news was not necessarily a shock to everyone - the Milgauss was not on a par with Rolex’s most popular models, waiting-list mainstays like the Daytona, Submariner, and GMT-Master - but it was a disappointing splash of reality to the subgroup of Rolexistas who love the cult-classic antimagnetic watch, while also serving as a call to attention for watch-market speculators who rarely find a Rolex shortage that they aren’t eager to monetize. What makes the Milgauss such a niche favorite in the Rolex portfolio? Read on. Rolex founder Hans Wisdorf (above) could be described as many things: a visionary entrepreneur, a brilliant marketer, a founding father of the modern watch industry. But at his true core, Wilsdorf was essentially a problem solver. Just about every contribution that he and his company made to horological history sprang from a dedication to fixing or eliminating some issue that plagued watch wearers. Too tedious to wind your watch every day? Here’s the Perpetual movement (below). Your watch isn...

Bulgari’s high jewellery watches take inspiration from Mediterranean flora and fauna Time+Tide
Bulgari s high jewellery watches May 26, 2023

Bulgari’s high jewellery watches take inspiration from Mediterranean flora and fauna

With the rise of their watches popularity on the back of some pretty stellar releases – the Octo Finissimo, recent Octo Roma, and the ever-evolving Serpenti come to mind – us watch-o-philes could be forgiven for overlooking Bulgari’s accomplishments in high jewellery. Last week, at the Palazzo Ducale in Venice, Bulgari unveiled the Mediterranea High … ContinuedThe post Bulgari’s high jewellery watches take inspiration from Mediterranean flora and fauna appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI “Co-Pilot” With 42mm Case Worn & Wound
Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI May 25, 2023

Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI “Co-Pilot” With 42mm Case

Breitling revealed their modern Super AVI collection in 2021 at an airstrip in Dallas, with actual war planes and pilots on hand. We brought you live coverage right here, and as nice as we found some of the designs, the cases themselves, which clocked in at 46×15.9mm, were a tougher pill to swallow. In an attempt to address this, Breitling has introduced a new Classic AVI family into the collection, which features a more wrist-friendly 42×14.7mm case at the expense of the GMT complication found in the Super AVI family. Further still, within this release is a 41mm ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition that stays true to old school form both inside and out.  The new Classic AVI watches bring the same design language we saw in the Super AVI, which itself is a reference to the Breitling reference 765 from the early ‘50s, a watch that earned the nickname “Co-Pilot” for its usefulness to pilots of the time. The Super AVI watches featured designs that drew inspiration from iconic WWII planes, and the Classic AVI collection makes use of the same schemes to great effect. This includes the P-51 Mustang, Vought F4U Corsair, Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, and Mosquito planes, which are each represented in the 4 different colorways. The newest AVI watches use the Breitling Caliber 23, which is their modified Valjoux 7753. This means the pricing is also considerably more attractive than the Super AVI collection, with prices starting at $5,800 for leather strap equipped watches, and $6,200 if you pre...

Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” 42mm Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak May 25, 2023

Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” 42mm

New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” marks second Marvel collaboration after “Black Panther” Continues tradition of a limited edition of 250 pieces, with a piece unique “Black-suit Spider-Man” to be auctioned for charity The solid white-gold, hand-painted and engraved Spider-Man figure requires no less than 50 hours of work When Audemars Piguet debuted … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.