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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

New Year’s Resolutions Friday: Travel Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 29, 2023

New Year’s Resolutions Friday: Travel Watches

The last few months are, and always have been, the busiest time of the year to travel. In many ways, the Thanksgiving crowd is far more predictable since the holiday falls on the same day each year. The opposite is true for the end of December as family and friends hustle to jet around the country (and the world). Having a timepiece you can rely on as you make and execute your travel plans is more than a practical consideration; it can also be a comforting companion when far from home. On this edition of new Year’s Resolutions Friday, we want to highlight watches that can be such companions – this one is for all of you who are traveling this season and for those who intend to travel more in the new year. Bon voyage! The last few months are, and always have been, the busiest time of the year to travel. In many ways, the Thanksgiving crowd is far more predictable since the holiday falls on the same day each year. The opposite is true for the end of December as family and friends hustle to jet around the country (and the world). Having a timepiece you can rely on as you make and execute your travel plans is more than a practical consideration; it can also be a comforting companion when far from home. On this edition of new Year’s Resolutions Friday, we want to highlight watches that can be such companions – this one is for all of you who are traveling this season and for those who intend to travel more in the new year. Bon voyage! The post New Year’s Resolutions Fri...

Go exploring with The Ace x Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar Dec 7, 2023

Go exploring with The Ace x Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar

The Amsterdam-based Ace Jewelers are really making their name known throughout the watch world thanks to their collaborations, especially with the likes of Nomos and the Diversity Series with Elka. Nivada Grenchen have had quite an extraordinary comeback in recent years, simultaneously embracing their storied heritage and experimenting with fun collabs. The new Ace x … ContinuedThe post Go exploring with The Ace x Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Universal Genève Polerouter Gets the Reference Treatment in a Gorgeous New Book Covering the Enormous Breadth of the Collection Worn & Wound
Universal Genève Dec 6, 2023

The Universal Genève Polerouter Gets the Reference Treatment in a Gorgeous New Book Covering the Enormous Breadth of the Collection

Over the last several years, something has happened to the humble Universal Geneve Polerouter. This watch, once a go-to recommendation for collector’s looking to get their feet wet in the world of vintage, has risen in stature, value, and overall name recognition as the watch market has expanded. As with any niche hobby that, over time, approaches the mainstream, hidden gems become less hidden. The Polerouter, while not a household name like the Speedmaster or Submariner, is not nearly as under the radar as it used to be.  While those of us who have been around this stuff for years might mourn the availability of great examples of the Polerouter on the cheap, it’s hard not to be happy that people are discovering and appreciating the watch. As a gateway to the hobby, and vintage specifically, it’s a collection that could lead a curious collector down any number of paths, each one rewarding in a different way. That’s because there are so many ways to approach the Polerouter: as a creation from the mind of the biggest name in the history of watch design, as an elegant sports watch that helped set a template for some of the most popular watches of the current era, and as an uncommon mechanical triumph. And, of course, it’s still a relatively accessible piece of a key part of watch history, and a great representation of Universal Geneve, a brand that exists today as a time capsule.  Perhaps one of the clearest signals that the Polerouter has crossed a threshold of s...

Adding Some Spice to Life with Colorful Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 6, 2023

Adding Some Spice to Life with Colorful Watches

The realization hits like a freight train. At some point in the intrepid collector’s journey, he or she comes to a stunning revelation. The watch box is full but every piece is monochromatic and paired with plain nato straps. He’s living in a black and white world, and maybe he’s been doing it wrong the whole time. He checks his Internet history: yet another forum argument, another online cart full of the same watch he’s always bought. It was never meant to be this way. Let this cautionary tale resonate as the days grow short and gray. The road back to joy and laughter in watch enjoyment is simple; just add some color. The realization hits like a freight train. At some point in the intrepid collector’s journey, he or she comes to a stunning revelation. The watch box is full but every piece is monochromatic and paired with plain nato straps. He’s living in a black and white world, and maybe he’s been doing it wrong the whole time. He checks his Internet history: yet another forum argument, another online cart full of the same watch he’s always bought. It was never meant to be this way. Let this cautionary tale resonate as the days grow short and gray. The road back to joy and laughter in watch enjoyment is simple; just add some color. The post Adding Some Spice to Life with Colorful Watches appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Book Review: ‘The Polerouter’, a Universal Genève Odyssey SJX Watches
Universal Genève Dec 6, 2023

Book Review: ‘The Polerouter’, a Universal Genève Odyssey

The Polerouter. By Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi. Time Honoured Ltd. £225. A timepiece intertwined with the allure of pioneering trans-polar flights flown by Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS), the Universal Genève Polerouter is a symbol of 1950s glamour and adventure. Ardent Polerouter enthusiasts Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi embarked on a collaborative journey four years ago on comprehensive book dedicated to the iconic watch, aptly titled The Polerouter. The book delves into the fascinating world of the Polerouter, a timepiece fondly regarded by many in the world of vintage watches. This is demonstrated in the forewords written by individuals like John Goldberger, author and collector; Virginie Liatard-Roessli, watch specialist at Phillips; and Alessandro Fanciulli, a well-known social media figure and dealer better known as “Mr A”.  The authors themselves, however, are scholars but amateurs – Mr Willis is a mathematician while Mr Mazzucchi is a nautical interior designer. The narrative unfolds across various chapters, each dedicated to a specific model, highlighting key milestones in the Polerouter’s evolution. Across almost 400 pages, the authors meticulously document each model’s distinct characteristics, from the SAS Polarouter to the Polerouter Sub. The information unfolds chronologically, beginning with the SAS Polarouter and systematically exploring each Polerouter model. Notably, the book intentionally omits esoteric models such as the P...

Ressence Brings Some Color to the Type 1 Worn & Wound
Ressence Brings Some Color Dec 4, 2023

Ressence Brings Some Color to the Type 1

In the big wide world of watches, there is nothing quite like a Ressence. The Belgium-based brand has made its name through futuristic designs that utilize co-planar revolving discs and other dial elements to create a cohesive and interesting time-telling experience. In the brand’s lineup, the Type 1 Round is positioned as the foundation and the most distilled vision of what Ressence stands for. The new Type 1° M, however, reveals a playful side that has not been seen before. Out with the staid black and gray tones for which the brand has been so well known for; it’s time for some color. The Type 1 Round’s case is, well, round, and measures 42.7mm wide, 47mm lug to lug, and 11mm thick. It is made of Grade 5 Titanium and does away with a traditional crown (more on winding in a moment). The dial is in the classic Ressence regulator style and displays days, hours, minutes, and seconds. Without a number in sight, which is which? On this multi-colored version it’s a little easier to ascertain: the blue chapter ring along the edge of the dial marks the seconds while the green dial tracks the hours. Yellow is for running seconds, and the red segmented ring marks the days of the week with the two outlined sections representing the weekend. Under the hood, Ressence’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS) enables the modules for the hours, minutes, seconds, and days to continuously revolve around one another. The movement is based on a (heavily) modified ETA-2892 and runs...

Introducing – The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Seddiqi Special, With Meteorite Dial Monochrome
Gerald Charles Nov 29, 2023

Introducing – The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Seddiqi Special, With Meteorite Dial

Gerald Charles has pulled off something quite extraordinary in the watch world: all its collections revolve exclusively around one case design. And what a case design that is! Created by legendary designer Gérald Genta in 2006, the flamboyant Maestro case design is the backbone of Gerald Charles. Ranging from time-and-date models to skeletonised versions and […]

Three Pilot’s Watches Worthy of Any Collection Worn & Wound
Nov 19, 2023

Three Pilot’s Watches Worthy of Any Collection

Of all the archetypal sport watches that have so gripped our ever-growing community, the pilot’s watch might be the most enigmatic. It’s not as singularly focused or popular in the mainstream as the dive watch, and it doesn’t revel in the romance of travel or flaunt a colorful bezel like a GMT does. Its function is ostensibly straightforward enough – tell the time legibly in the air – yet the how and with what is so undefined that no singular complication or model is the obvious poster child from which all other designs are merely descendents. With a pilot’s watch, you can truly understand how brands flex their creativity and interpret what they see as an aviator’s invaluable tool. The three watches in the spotlight today may all fall under the same broad category, but each takes such a different approach that it wouldn’t be farfetched to have all three in a collection. It might even be a good idea. Of all the archetypal sport watches that have so gripped our ever-growing community, the pilot’s watch might be the most enigmatic. It’s not as singularly focused or popular in the mainstream as the dive watch, and it doesn’t revel in the romance of travel or flaunt a colorful bezel like a GMT does. Its function is ostensibly straightforward enough – tell the time legibly in the air – yet the how and with what is so undefined that no singular complication or model is the obvious poster child from which all other designs are merely descendents. With a p...

TWO FUTURE G-SHOCK ICONS: THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY FULL CARBON 5000 Worn & Wound
Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe’s vision Nov 15, 2023

TWO FUTURE G-SHOCK ICONS: THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY FULL CARBON 5000

Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly that. It’s incredible considering that 40 years have gone by since Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe’s vision became a reality. Story has it that Ibe began to conceptualize what a truly shock-resistant watch could be when his own mechanical watch fell and shattered on the ground after a collision with a fellow pedestrian. In the early 1980s, a specialized team at Casio, nicknamed “Team Tough”, began to test and develop prototypes. During this time, Ibe famously found inspiration from a rubber ball on a playground. Eventually engineers incorporated this rubber core idea into the very first G-Shock, model DW-5000C, in 1983. Four decades of innovation and iteration later, Casio is proud to present the culmination of the latest and greatest in technology, material science, and coloration: The 40th Anniversary Full Carbon 5000 Limited Edition. Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly...

New To The Windup Watch Shop – Nivada Grenchen Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Nov 2, 2023

New To The Windup Watch Shop – Nivada Grenchen

At times the vintage watch world can seem like the Wild West: rife with danger and opportunity at the same time. Many who have gone deep down the rabbit hole may have discovered incredibly interesting watches at good value in mid-century watchmaking stalwart Nivada Grenchen. Established in 1926, the Swiss-based brand made a name for itself by building robust timepieces and was one of the first to mass-produce automatically winding watches. Nivada Grenchen, like many others, struggled through the Quartz Crisis but was relaunched in 2018 with the help of entrepreneurs Guillame Laidet and Remi Chabrat. It has emerged from the gates with a core lineup composed of some of its most beloved watches from the 20th century, and from a vintage enthusiast’s vantage point, few brands are doing it like Nivada Grenchen. Every model and configuration oozes old-school cool and has been thoughtfully reinterpreted for today. The Windup Watch Shop is proud to welcome Nivada Grenchen and offer two of its most famous models: The OG Antarctic and the inimitable Chronomaster. At times the vintage watch world can seem like the Wild West: rife with danger and opportunity at the same time. Many who have gone deep down the rabbit hole may have discovered incredibly interesting watches at good value in mid-century watchmaking stalwart Nivada Grenchen. Established in 1926, the Swiss-based brand made a name for itself by building robust timepieces and was one of the first to mass-produce automatically...

New releases from Omega, Spinnaker, Ming and more Time+Tide
Omega Spinnaker Ming Oct 28, 2023

New releases from Omega, Spinnaker, Ming and more

For this week’s selection, we have a healthy mix of incredible timepieces from the highest echelons of watchmaking, and more cheerful collaborations that give the world of watches a more joyful edge. After years of competition between the big brands for the lightest watch, we have a new player in this race, with independent darling … ContinuedThe post New releases from Omega, Spinnaker, Ming and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ming Surprises with What Could Be the Lightest Watches Ever Made Worn & Wound
Ming Oct 27, 2023

Ming Surprises with What Could Be the Lightest Watches Ever Made

If you spend enough time writing about watches, you’ll eventually be nearly blinded to all of the press releases touting world records of some kind. Sometimes it feels like a month doesn’t go by that a brand isn’t touting a watch that is the thinnest ever, the lightest ever, the most water resistant ever, the most complicated, and various permutations and combinations of all the above. Almost always, these record setters come from big brands, with years of research and untold amounts of historical backing behind them. So it was with considerable interest that we saw a message from Ming earlier this week, advising that they’ve just made the lightest mechanical wristwatches ever. Or, they probably have. A “record” wasn’t exactly claimed, but the watches are really, really light.  The LW.01 emerges from their Special Projects Cave, the skunkworks operation that sees Ming doing their most experimental work. The goal here was to simply make the lightest watch they could using the resources available to them, while keeping it wearable and practical in the manner of other Mings. The process took years, but the result is a (possible) record breaker that, somewhat astoundingly, is still immediately recognizable as a Ming first and foremost.  With ultrathin and ultralight watches, the process always seems to start with case construction, as this is a component of the watch where mass can most easily be engineered away. The LW.01 forgoes traditional case construction ...

Bremont Broadsword Hands-On: Testing The Entry-Level Bremont Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bremont Broadsword Hands-On Testing Oct 16, 2023

Bremont Broadsword Hands-On: Testing The Entry-Level Bremont

Over the years we've really warmed up to Bremont on this site, even though I think they've had some misses recently. The S302 GMT I reviewed is still a hit in my eyes and this time, I wanted to test out one of the more entry-level offerings in the catalog. By the way, that S302 even made its way into our guide covering the best military watches ever. While it's not necessarily affordable by any means, the Bremont Broadsword seemed to be a compelling entry point, specifically within the brand's Armed Forces collection. I jumped at the opportunity to try it out this year, along with a couple of other field watches in my rotation.

Timor Launches a Contemporary Take on their Classic “Dirty Dozen” Watch Worn & Wound
Oct 10, 2023

Timor Launches a Contemporary Take on their Classic “Dirty Dozen” Watch

Field watches, as Zach alluded to earlier this week, are, in some sense, the best kind of watch. Free from extraneous moving parts or features, field watches are designed to do what watches do – tell time legibly and not break. At no point was this more necessary than during World War II when Britain’s Ministry of Defense issued a request for durable watches under the specification “WWW”: wrist, watch, waterproof. One of the famous 12 companies (AKA the Dirty Dozen) that answered the call was the Timor Watch Company. The rest, as they say, is history, and eight decades later we have the modern successor to the Timor WWW. Let’s get the specs out of the way: The new Modern Field 100M’s case is PVD-coated 316L steel for maximum stealth, and the domed crystal is also treated to combat glare. Timor has elected to preserve the watch’s historic 36.5mm size while keeping the remaining dimensions very reasonable: 12mm thick, 45.5mm lug to lug (18mm lug width), and 94 grams on the seat belt nylon strap. Inside is a modified Sellita SW260 movement. Water resistance is 100 meters, which Timor considers perfect “in rain, river, or during a rigorous workout.” The dial of the Modern Field 100M is what you would expect from a no-nonsense watch: Large Arabic hour markers paired with their 24-hour equivalents. Along the chapter ring is a smaller scale of 5-minute increments. Simple pencil hour and minute hands, carried over from the original Timor Dirty Dozen, make time-te...

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Worn & Wound
Oct 3, 2023

Breaking Barriers with the AVI-8 Bell X-1 Limited Edition

In a world of speed and daring, where the limits of what’s possible are being pushed… there are those who dare to dream, and there are those who dare to ride. In 1947, legendary pilot Chuck Yeager climbed into the cockpit of the Bell X-1, a rocket-powered aircraft designed to break a barrier thought by many to be impossible-the speed of sound itself. And what is speed… but distance, over time. Fortunately, he had vision… a goal, and the courage to chase it. The post Breaking Barriers with the AVI-8 Bell X-1 Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.