Hodinkee
Movado Motion
Rising to meet the demands of a modern wearer on the move.
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Hodinkee
Rising to meet the demands of a modern wearer on the move.
Deployant
Audemars Piguet brings their tradition of wandering hours first shown in their various Starwheel models, reimagined into the Code 11.59 collection.
Time+Tide
This week, we’ve had a lot of excitement at our end. We just launched our fourth limited-edition collaboration watch, the Nivada Grenchen x seconde/seconde/ x Time+Tide ChaosMaster Series, while the highly anticipated new season of About Effing Time premieres this weekend. The Nivada Grenchen x seconde/seconde/ x Time+Tide ChaosMaster Series really embodies what we are … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We launch our 4th limited edition, plus a new season of About Effing Time! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The pre-owned market for watches has become bigger and bigger each year – so much so that resale giants like eBay have doubled down and entered the mix, while a company like WatchBox can afford to sign Michael Jordan (yep, the basketball GOAT) as an ambassador. Recently, we have seen brands like Richard Mille do … ContinuedThe post Rolex launch certified pre-owned program, but we are left with more questions than answers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Ken Gargett recently had the opportunity to try two Saint Luis Rey Double Corona Cigars from two different boxes. They were both remarkably similar, which is not a given with Cuban cigars, especially very rare Cuban cigars.
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SJX Watches
IWC has a suite of instantly recognisable models synonymous with the brand, namely the Pilot’s Watches and of course, the Portugieser. But one collection does get as much recognition as its peers, despite being almost 40 years old. Named after the famous seaside city in Italy, the Portofino was introduced in 1984 (though the inaugural model didn’t yet have the Portofino name at the time) as an oversized pocket watch-style wristwatch, something of a clarion call to persist with mechanical watchmaking after the Quartz Crisis. Now the brand has revived one of the classics from the line with the Portofino Perpetual Calendar. At 40 mm in diameter, it’s the most compact of IWC’s perpetual calendars and is equipped with an in-house movement from the 82000 family. Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar is a sought-after complication for its utility but also its aesthetics, especially when it includes a moon phase, which adds a touch of romanticism to the design. IWC’s latest take on the complication is straightforward, practical, and priced reasonably enough. In fact, it’s essentially a visually-simplified version of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42, which uses the same movement but inside a larger case. While not revolutionary in technical terms, the Portofino Perpetual Calendar is a solid performer with a concise design. It retains all the features that made the 1990s original appealing but adds a few contemporary touches in both design and the in-house base m...
SJX Watches
Seeing an Omega Seamaster in the latest James Bond is hardly a surprise. Independent watchmakers, however, rarely get the same Hollywood opportunities that deep-pocketed brands like Omega do. But tiny German watchmaker Kudoke managed to make it to the big screen without a well-funded marketing campaign. This story starts with American novelist Howard Michael Gould, who released Last Looks in 2018. A mystery novel centred on a disgraced detective, Last Looks was on its way to the silver screen shortly after publication with Charlie Hunnam and Mel Gibson in starring roles. Dominic Monaghan’s character wearing the Kudoke Real Skeleton A crucial Kudoke skeleton While the filming Last Looks, the producers reached out to the husband-and-wife team behind Kudoke, Ev and Stefan, for a watch to be worn in a movie without providing much details. According to Ev, the email from the producers initially seemed to be a random piece of spam. After all, most watches with prominent placements in films are the result of hefty advertising budgets. But then Kudoke received another email with the same request from another sender. This piqued their interest but left Ev and Stefan wondering why any producer would choose a watch most of the audience would never recognise? Soon enough, the Kudokes were sent excerpts of the script. To their surprise, the watch was not merely an accessory, but it was a central part of the plot, a crucial clue for solving the mystery in fact. The Kudokes natural...
Quill & Pad
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique from 2016 is a dress tourbillon of the modern era that does much more than look pretty. Tim Mosso takes a closer look here and divulges in-depth background.
Hodinkee
Can the right timepiece provide cold comfort in icy waters? Our former Complete Newbie columnist – now a real, professional watch writer – strapped on the Super Sea Wolf Compression Whitecap to find out.
Deployant
Frederique Constant releases a new version of the Classics Worldtimer Offline Full Black Special Edition. Here is our impressions on the novelty.
Video
Revolution
Revolution Asia’s Editor-in-Chief Andre Frois had the privilege of speaking with Longines CEO Matthias Breschan on the historic milestones of the brand that have played a pivotal role in the evolution of chronometry and sports timekeeping.
SJX Watches
For almost as long as I’ve been interested in watches, I’ve tried to find an objective way to visualise the stratification of the various luxury watch brands. I’m as fascinated by the process of watchmaking as much as the products themselves, and I wanted to find a way to differentiate brands based on the production techniques they employ, yet do so objectively. I believe you can tell a lot about a brand’s values and capabilities by looking at their methods, but it can be difficult to penetrate the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing to see what’s really going on behind the curtain. An objective measure: watchmaker-hours per watch In my review of the Saxonia Thin last year, I used the metric “watches per watchmaker” to illustrate the economics of A. Lange & Söhne. While this is not a perfect metric, it is simple and quantitative, and crucially, it can often be derived from publicly available information. Taking this analysis one step further, I added Swiss, German, and Japanese national statistics for working hours to calculate the maximum possible number of watchmaker-hours per watch for more than 50 luxury watch brands. The start of the map, the Saxonia Thin How to interpret this metric The watchmaker-hours metric is not the number of hours that a watchmaker spends on every watch. Rather, it’s the theoretical maximum number of hours that a brand’s watchmakers could possibly spend with each watch. This workrate can be viewed as a simple proxy fo...
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: Recently the Kurono Chronograph 1 Mk.2 went up for sale, and has since sold out. More seasoned watch enthusiasts are likely familiar with the cult-followed micro-independent brand, but, for those new to to the space, some of you may have been wondering what all the hoopla on social media was all about. So, we refer you to Zach’s first story on … ContinuedThe post Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Bell & Ross releases a new watch with the famous acrobatic unit Patrouille de France. Introducing the new BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France.
Quill & Pad
First launched toward the end of 2021, the Continuum, now known as C by Romain Gauthier, is the boutique brand's take on a luxury sports watch without falling into the trap of trying to be just another voice in the steel sports watch market.
Video
SJX Watches
Going on the block at Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction is the Patek Philippe ref. 5004J “Michael Ovitz”. It’s lot 2520 and one of the watches from The Triazza Collection, an impressive accumulation of watches owned by a prominent Hong Kong businessman. The collection is heavy on Patek Philippe. Amongst the other timepieces in the collection is the Patek Philippe tourbillon pocket watch that won first prize at the Geneva Observatory in 1931 (which is also being offered in the same auction) and the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 that once belonged to Eric Clapton (but is not for sale, yet). “MSO” – Michael Steven Ovitz The “MSO” initials on this ref. 5004J instantly reveal it was one of the many, I would two dozen at least, special-order watches that Patek Philippe made for Michael Ovitz starting in 2011. Often described as a “super agent”, Mr Ovitz cofounded Creative Artists Agency (CAA), once the dominant talent agency in Hollywood. After a short-lived spell at Disney, he’s now known for his impressive art collection, some of which is on show in his equally impressive home in California. Though the reason behind Patek Philippe’s accommodation of Mr Ovitz is not publicly known, industry lore has it that the watches were an expression of gratitude by the Sterns after Mr Ovitz assisted them in a significant way. Mr Ovitz has only commented on these watches publicly once, in a 2021 article in Robb Report: “It was the first time Ovitz, who has be...
Hodinkee
From the ref. 1675 GMT "Batman" to a 36mm Sky-Dweller, hop in the Hodinkee time machine (aka Photoshop) because this is a fun one.
Revolution
In Saint-Émilion, part of the winemaking region of Bordeaux, France, stands Château Angelus, a vineyard that has remained in ownership of the Boüard de Laforest family for almost two and half centuries. The château is a mecca for wine lovers the world over and vintages from this Premier Grand Cru Classe A estate are renowned […]
Time+Tide
The invitation came through emblazoned with two logos – those of Omega and 007. “Raynald Aeschlimann, The M of Omega, invites you to a spy-inspired event: 60 Years of James Bond. Dress code: black tie (of course).” Andrew and I duly started whistling cinema’s most famous theme tune. In London, we were driven to a secret … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: T+T meets James Bond and lives out super-spy fantasies in London appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Piaget Rectangle à l'Ancienne, an “old-fashioned rectangle,” might have a blunt description for a name but this vintage watch is much more than that; it is a timepiece that exquisitely represents the essence of Piaget.
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Time+Tide
Cartier is, at least in my opinion, the hottest watch brand right now. Whether it’s the Cartier Crash London that sold for over US$1M, Tyler, The Creator’s recent flex of his armful of vintage and modern references from the storied brand, or the fact that the general consensus of the watch media at Watches & … ContinuedThe post Cartier opens new Sydney flagship boutique – here are 3 watches to check out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having already covered highlights in two categories – independent watchmaking and interesting complications – in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now focus on a crowd favourite when it comes to complications, the chronograph. We look at eight chronographs that stand out in The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV. They range from an esoteric Patek Philippe made for an English football club owned by a Thai duty-free shopping magnate to and a fine specimen of the mythical Omega Speedmaster “MIR-90 90 Days” that spent three months on the Russian space station. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5960/1A-011 made in 2016 to commemorate Leicester City becoming Premier League champions for the first time Lot 813: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, first-generation “Meter” dial Since its introduction in 1999 as Lange’s first chronograph, the Datograph is of the German brand’s most iconic timepieces. Even independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour famously fawns over the movement – he owns an example in rose gold – that is a masterpiece of impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail. This example is a first-generation model with a 39 mm platinum case and a glossy black dial, arguably the quintessential Datograph. Keen-eyed collectors will notice “METER” on the tachymeter scale, indicating this is one of the earliest examples of the model. The warranty confirms that with a 2001 purchase date. Lange began usin...
Quill & Pad
The last couple of GPHGs were hit by COVID, but the 2022 GPHG was finally again an event and a party as it should be! Tout le monde was in Geneva, celebrating watchmaking at its finest. Here are our thoughts on the winners and how well we did at predicting them.
SJX Watches
Descended from Piaget’s ultra-thin dress watches that first emerged six decades ago, the Altiplano is the brand’s quintessential dress watch in the modern day. Minimalist and refined, the Altiplano is pared back, legible, and well-proportioned – not to mention very thin – as expected from a brand that launched its first ultra-thin watch in 1957. The latest addition to the ultra-thin lineup is the 21-piece limited edition that emerged from a collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Limited Edition. It will be available only at Piaget boutiques in China with the exception of the prototype numbered “00/21” that will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale on November 28. Initial thoughts Ordinarily found with a conservative and somewhat plain silver dial, the Altiplano gets a major makeover with a lacquered green dial paired with pink gold hands and indices that liven up its usual monochromatic look. It’s clearly a dress watch yet manages to stand out against all the other dress watches. That said, the dial is almost perfect, but not quite – the date window with a white date disc looks out of place. I would have preferred the dial to do away with the date altogether. The case remains the same as the standard model with a wearable and modern size of 40 mm matched with a thinness of just 6.36 mm that’s further enhanced by the slim lugs. Its height, or lack thereof, is thanks to the cal. 1205P, among the...
Deployant
Hanhart releases 4 new versions of the 417 ES in 2 different sizes of 42mm and 39mm with two dial options in either an Panda or Reverse Panda look.
Video
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