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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Hands-On: De Bethune Dream Watch 5 in Rose Gold SJX Watches
De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Jan 27, 2020

Hands-On: De Bethune Dream Watch 5 in Rose Gold

De Bethune’s brand of watchmaking has spawned many avant-garde watches, ranging from the Urwerk collaboration for Only Watch to the East Asian-inspired Maestri Art. But its most outstanding sculptural creation is unquestionably the Dream Watch 5, an extraterrestrial seashell that tells the time. Originally launched in 2014 in mirror-polished titanium, the original Dream Watch 5 was extremely expensive, but also tiny, having the proportions of a lady’s watch. Fortunately, it was later enlarged to its current size of just under 60 mm at its widest, from crown to pointed tip, though it remains just as expensive. The Dream Watch was then iterated into several one-off examples, with the most incredible being the Dream Watch 5 in heat-blued meteorite; its extraordinary nature matched by the US$450,000 price tag. The Dream Watch 5 in meteorite More recently, a custom version of the Dream Watch 5 in 18k rose gold was delivered last year. Even though the design is exactly the same as the other variants, the rose gold specimen has a distinctly more classical look that dials back on the sci-fi feel. Like the other versions of the watch, the Dream Watch 5 in rose gold is entirely mirror polished, but also accented by an insert of polished, heat-blued titanium on the case back that extends to the crown, which is also made of the same material and then topped with a 1 carat ruby. Despite its aesthetics, the Dream Watch 5 is actually functionally simple: it indicates the hours and m...

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Jan 27, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture

The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Fratello Exclusive is produced in a limited run of 29 pieces, and are all individually numbered on the caseback. The 42mm 3 parts-case holds a convex sapphire crystal and clear caseback revealing the inner workings of the FC-712 caliber. The two counters of the moonphase and date are respectively … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Game, Set, Watch: Tennis aces and their timepieces Time+Tide
Jan 27, 2020

Game, Set, Watch: Tennis aces and their timepieces

The 2020 running of the Australian Open is well and truly into full … well, swing. And with the best tennis players in the world descending on Melbourne, we thought we’d take a look at watchmakers that have affiliations with the pro athletes because, after all, one of my favourite parts of the AO is … ContinuedThe post Game, Set, Watch: Tennis aces and their timepieces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Stunning video footage of a (fantasy) yellow gold Rolex ‘Hulk’ Submariner emerges, prompting Basel predictions Time+Tide
Rolex Hulk’ Submariner emerges prompting Jan 27, 2020

Stunning video footage of a (fantasy) yellow gold Rolex ‘Hulk’ Submariner emerges, prompting Basel predictions

“Forecasting future events is often like searching for a black cat in an unlit room, that may not even be there,” wrote Steve Davidson in The Crystal Ball. The art of predictions, in other words, tends to be an absolute mug’s game. When you’re trying to make forecasts about Rolex – a company that shrouds … ContinuedThe post Stunning video footage of a (fantasy) yellow gold Rolex ‘Hulk’ Submariner emerges, prompting Basel predictions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 13: DOXA – Celebrating 130 Years of DOXA Time+Tide
Doxa Celebrating 130 Years Jan 27, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 13: DOXA – Celebrating 130 Years of DOXA

Released at Baselworld 2019, this SUB 200 130th Anniversary Limited Edition diver’s watch was profoundly popular, and the run of 130 pieces sold out almost before it was released. Time+Tide’s own stock of this model, 30 pieces, was sold in just under two hours. We are offering our own archive piece for sale here, brand … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 13: DOXA – Celebrating 130 Years of DOXA appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 12: A crisp classic from Frederique Constant Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Jan 27, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 12: A crisp classic from Frederique Constant

This classic three-handed model from Frederique Constant, with gloss black dial, is a dress watch par excellence. It is presented here with high-polished baton indices, razor-sharp sword hands and an elegant crocodile strap. It is generously donated by Sydney’s Wamada Jewellery, Watchfest and the Sydney Chinese Community. The Classics Index Automatic is a symphony of … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 12: A crisp classic from Frederique Constant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 6: A limited edition Nick Hacko born in Sydney Time+Tide
Jan 26, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 6: A limited edition Nick Hacko born in Sydney

This watch comes with a moving personal story. The first of a run of 200 ‘Mark 1’ models that are keenly being awaited by their future owners, it was actually a present from Sydney watchmaker Nicholas Hacko to his wife: “It is a very special watch for her, and she is parting with it in … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 6: A limited edition Nick Hacko born in Sydney appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why is this Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar so awesome? Time+Tide
Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar Jan 26, 2020

Why is this Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar so awesome?

Editor’s note: Oftentimes, it seems as though the annual calendar complication is all too easily overlooked in the horological hierarchy of complications. GMTs, Chronographs – these are the most popular sorts of watches at the moment. But the annual calendar shouldn’t be discounted … because it’s wonderful. A while ago, we went HANDS-ON with Longines’ … ContinuedThe post Why is this Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar so awesome? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Military 1938 SJX Watches
Longines Heritage Military 1938 Longines Jan 26, 2020

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Military 1938

Longines has been cranking out vintage remakes at a furious pace over the last year, most notably the Heritage Classic “sector” dial and Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946. All of them share the appealing qualities of being well-priced and fairly authentic remakes. The latest to be released is the Heritage Military 1938, a remake of an oversized watch Longines produced in the 1930s, often for Eastern European markets. It’s as good as the other remakes in terms of value – Longines excel at making value-for-money watches – but falls a bit flat with the dial. The ref. 4092 The inspiration for the new remake is the ref. 4092, a wristwatch that is exceptionally large for its time, with its steel case measuring 43 mm in diameter. Such extra-large watches with military-style dials appear to have mostly been sold to Eastern Europe; Zipper, the Longines agent in Poland at the time is often named as the recipient in archive extracts. A vintage ref. 4092 from the Longines Museum (left) next to the Heritage Military 1938 The rarity and remarkable size of the ref. 4092, along with its appealing military-style dial, makes it a fairly valuable watch today. Even an example with a severely-aged dial sold for 23,750 Swiss francs at Phillips in 2017. So unlike other modern-day remakes that are enlarged versions of vintage originals, the Heritage Military 1938 is just right; it is exactly the same size as the original, but priced at just a tenth of the auction result. The remake Th...

RECOMMENDED READING: Why double-signed Rolex and Patek Philippe dials are so interesting Time+Tide
Patek Philippe dials are so interesting Jan 26, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Why double-signed Rolex and Patek Philippe dials are so interesting

Double-signed dials are the perfect example of how the details of a watch are sometimes the most interesting, revealing not just where a watch might have been sold, but opening up a window into the past to expose key relationships and macroeconomic trends that affected how the business of selling watches was done. Double-signed dials … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why double-signed Rolex and Patek Philippe dials are so interesting appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Great ‘Grams: MLK Day, Joshua Trees, and a very special AP Time+Tide
Casio n Jan 23, 2020

Great ‘Grams: MLK Day, Joshua Trees, and a very special AP

This week the US celebrated Martin Luther King Day, a reminder of Mr King’s work as a civil rights leader campaigning against segregation, and also a reminder that our efforts to build a more equal world mustn’t subside as we move forward. To mark the occasion, the watch collecting community was offered a post of … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: MLK Day, Joshua Trees, and a very special AP appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Breguet Marine 5517 in Titanium SJX Watches
Breguet Marine 5517 Jan 23, 2020

Up Close: Breguet Marine 5517 in Titanium

Breguet today is highly regarded for its watches that classically designed but often powered by innovative, high-tech movements, like the Classique Chronométrie 7727 with magnetic balance pivots, or the recent, elaborately finished skeleton tourbillon 5395. The brand is not, however, known for its luxury-sports watches (its line of Type XX aviator’s chronographs are entry-level and not quite sports watches). But last year Breguet unveiled the latest – and best – version of its luxury-sports watch, the Marine 5517. An under-appreciated contender in the category, the new Marine more conservative in style than its competition, but built to an admirably high standard. The Marine 5517 in titanium with a matching bracelet Horloger de la Marine Unlike its competitors, Breguet was relatively late to the luxury-sports watch segment (though not as late as A. Lange & Söhne, which launched the Odysseus last year); the original Marine only made its debut in 1990. The model name was inspired by Breguet’s appointment in 1815 as Horloger de la Marine – clockmaker to the French navy, an appointment it held for over 150 years. Designed by Jorg Hysek, perhaps the most famous watch designers of the 1990s, the first-generation Marine was distinguished by its fluted, domed crown, but otherwise looked pretty much like any other Breguet. That was replaced in 2005 by the second generation, a major redesign that gave it a more distinctive style. The practical robustness of the Marine...

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 5: A Hublot Classic Fusion, made unique Time+Tide
Hublot Classic Fusion made unique Jan 23, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 5: A Hublot Classic Fusion, made unique

Another watch conceived from scratch for the ‘Watch & Act!’ Auction, the Classic Fusion ‘Watch & Act!’ Unique Piece features a ceramic case, carbon fibre bezel and a shimmering blue dial. The case back is engraved with the words ‘Unique Piece’. Before we go on, here’s a quick primer on the Classic Fusion line: the … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 5: A Hublot Classic Fusion, made unique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Luke’s 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection Time+Tide
Jan 22, 2020

Luke’s 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection

Sometimes you’ve got to face the bitter truth. Between small children, a house needing urgent renovation and a woeful inability to pick the winning lottery numbers, I can’t spend big on a new watch for the foreseeable future. Luckily, right now the “premium economy” end of the market is stronger than ever. Here are five … ContinuedThe post Luke’s 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Creative Director at Bulgari Watches SJX Watches
Bulgari Watches Noted watch designers Jan 22, 2020

Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Creative Director at Bulgari Watches

Noted watch designers are usually prolific, but often famous for a handful, or even just one or two, creations. The obvious example is the late Gerald Genta, who conceived tens of thousands of designs, but is best known for his twin luxury-sports watches of 1972 and 1976. And so it is for Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the chief watch designer at Bulgari. Born in Naples but having moved to Rome as a child, the 49-year old joined Bulgari in 2001, after a short stint at Fiat in Turin straight out of design school. Over the 19 years designing watches for Bulgari, with several spent as a freelancer in the mid 2000s, he has created numerous and diverse timepieces, but the Octo Finissimo is his definitive work to date. The sleek and exceptionally thin watch has won critical acclaim, as well as many awards, since its launch in 2014. While it is probably too early to elevate the design to iconic status – something he admits below – the Octo Finissimo certainly has a good chance of getting there. The new Octo Finissimo in steel Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani I admire Mr Buonamassa Stigliani’s work with the Octo Finissimo, and though I managed to speak with him on several occasions over the years, they were brief conversations. But at last week’s LVMH Watch Week in Dubai – where Bulgari, Hublot, and Zenith presented their latest timepieces – I spoke with him at length. In an enlightening interview, he discussed the conception and construction of the Octo Finissimo, watch ...

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Cartier clockmaking is a mystery Time+Tide
Cartier clockmaking Jan 21, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Cartier clockmaking is a mystery

Louis Cartier has an important place in the history of the Cartier company, not only because he ran the first-ever Paris boutique but because he was responsible for one of the most enigmatic creations the brand released, the Cartier Mystery Clock. The origins of the Mystery Clock are found in 1912, when Louis Cartier began … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Cartier clockmaking is a mystery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 3: Bulgari’s Golden Serpent Time+Tide
Bulgari s Golden Serpent One Jan 21, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 3: Bulgari’s Golden Serpent

One of the key pieces in Bulgari’s recent resurgence, alongside the record-breaking 50+ award-winning Octo Finissimo, the Serpenti Tubogas represents the height of feminine elegance. Note the serpentine Tubogas bracelet that snakes sensuously around the wearer’s wrist. It is offered here in 18k yellow gold with a silver opaline dial. This watch has been generously … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 3: Bulgari’s Golden Serpent appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 1: U2 bass player Adam Clayton’s H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Limited Edition #1 of 3, with funky blue dial Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Jan 21, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 1: U2 bass player Adam Clayton’s H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Limited Edition #1 of 3, with funky blue dial

The personal watch of Adam Clayton, bass player of U2, this Pioneer Centre Seconds is one of only three Pioneer models in existence without a brand name on the dial. It has not been polished and is literally ‘off Adam’s wrist to the auction’ – light scratches and wear marks remain. Adam has been photographed … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 1: U2 bass player Adam Clayton’s H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Limited Edition #1 of 3, with funky blue dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Is this Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 a perfect dress watch? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 Jan 21, 2020

HANDS-ON: Is this Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 a perfect dress watch?

Unquestionably one of Grand Seiko’s most surprising releases of 2019, the SBGK additions to the Elegance Collection had all the makings of a perfect dress watch. There was just one problem, however - if I’m being really finickity, the dial options that were made available upon release were perhaps slightly out of keeping with that of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is this Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 a perfect dress watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.