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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Richard Lange Minute Repeater SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Mar 30, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Richard Lange Minute Repeater

A. Lange & Söhne first unveiled their first minute repeater in 2013, in the form of the Grand Complication. It took two more years for the unveiling of a simpler – yet still complex – model in the form of the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. Finally, seven years later, Lange unveils the Richard Lange Minute Repeater – a no-frills, classical three-hander with the coveted chiming feature. Initial Impressions Surprisingly slim and impressive in terms of acoustics, the Richard Lange Minute Repeater feels like a conservative release from the brand, but one that is much needed in the brand’s lineup – especially for those looking for a classically-styled minute repeater compared to the Zeitwerk. At first glance, it feels like an odd watch relative to the rest of Lange’s catalogue – we’ve taken for granted that Lange usually designs movement that are distinctively unique, especially for complications. In fact, the minute repeater mechanism and overall layout feel like a traditional Swiss calibre, albeit one with a German aesthetic. This can be forgiven as there’s only so many ways to design a minute repeater in a classic three-hander. And the brand still innovates – the repeater has practical high-end features compared to most of its peers, such as safety mechanisms and eliminating the pauses between the hour and minute strike. But arguably the best quality of the watch is its tactile feel. It feels and sounds good on the wrist – the case is unusually thin for a La...

Citizen Introduces the Series 8 870 First Anniversary SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Mar 24, 2022

Citizen Introduces the Series 8 870 First Anniversary

Not long after Citizen unveiled the Caliber 0200 in early 2021, it followed up with an affordable alternative, the Series 8 870. Resembling its bigger brother with an integrated bracelet, the Series 8 outperforms in its price segment. And just as Citizen unveils a limited edition Caliber 0200 in shades of grey, it is also taking the covers off the Series 8 870 First Anniversary Limited Edition, which features an all-black case matched with a carbon-composite dial. Initial thoughts While the standard 870 has excellent fit and finishing considering the price, it is available with just two dial options – black or silver – that are pretty plain, especially when bold textures or colours are all the rage. The new 870 caters to current fashions, but still remains low-key in a manner that’s typical of Citizen’s higher-end watches. With its cleaner look, the all-black case is an improvement from the two-tone standard model, while the carbon composite dial adds a degree of interest that is only obvious up close. It’s also an unusual take on the patterned dial, which is typically stamped. Unlike the standard model, this has a see-through back. The movement has been made a little more interesting with a gilded rotor, which stands out even more than usual as the case is entirely black. In fact, the gilded rotor is the sole bit of colour on the watch, but one that will only be known to the owner. Arguably the only shortcoming of the new 870 is the lack of a bracelet. Th...

Explained: Bulgari Debuts the Thinnest Mechanical Watch SJX Watches
Bulgari Debuts Mar 22, 2022

Explained: Bulgari Debuts the Thinnest Mechanical Watch

After notching up several world records for the thinnest watch in various categories, Bulgari had yet to claim the title of the thinnest mechanical watch. Piaget took the title in 2018 with the announcement of the AUC, which became commercially available in 2020. But the Roman jeweller has finally bested its rivals with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, which is an astonishing 1.8 mm tall from crystal to case back, making it the thinnest watch on the market today (and also the thinnest in decades). It’s 0.2 mm slimmer than the Piaget AUC. The Ultra is certainly less, but is it more accomplished? Initial thoughts Trumping the previous title holder by a sizeable margin of 10%, the Octo Finissimo Ultra is an impressive achievement, even though the race to the be the flattest has been ongoing for a long time. For starters, the Ultra does well in terms of design. While the design is based on the long standing Octo Finissimo, it doesn’t take away from its appeal. The Ultra is the sportiest watch among the thinnest of ultra-thin watches, with striking contemporary lines. And it is very much a watch of today, literally. The large barrel ratchet wheel is engraved with a QR code providing access to an NFT artwork that accompanies each watch. It is tacky both as an idea and also up close, but at a distance the pattern of the code could pass for a decorative motif that fills up what would otherwise be a wide open space. Keeping current But the burning question is how did Bulgari’s ...

Omega Introduces the Hand-Wind Speedmaster ’57 SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Mar 17, 2022

Omega Introduces the Hand-Wind Speedmaster ’57

A modern take on Omega’s first-ever Speedmaster from 1957, the aptly named Speedmaster ’57 has just been facelifted and upgraded. What was originally a two-counter, automatic chronograph is now a two-counter, manual-wind chronograph. Its aesthetics have been refined, including with a smaller case, coloured dials, and a better bracelet, while the insides have been upgrade with a METAS-certified movement. Initial thoughts While the new Speedmaster ’57 might seem identical to its predecessor that was introduced almost a decade ago, it is entirely different. The latest release retains the same retro style with its “Broad Arrow” hands, straight lugs, and flat-link bracelet, but everything else has been redesigned. Continuing Omega’s stylistic direction for 2022, the new Speedmaster ’57 is offered in bright, metallic-finish dials, including a fashionable olive green. It also encapsulates consumers’ preference for a smaller and thinner case, as well as a quick-adjustment clasp, which will certainly improve wearability. But the biggest surprise comes courtesy of the movement. While the cal. 9300 in the earlier model was automatic, the cal. 9906 in the new model is hand-wind, which results in a slightly thinner case that’s 12.99 mm. With its evocation of vintage chronographs, the hand-wind movement leaves the date feeling somewhat out of place, since it’s a complication traditionally associated with practicality instead of good, old-fashioned aesthetics. At U...

Girard-Perregaux Revives the Retro-Digital Casquette of 1976 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Revives Feb 28, 2022

Girard-Perregaux Revives the Retro-Digital Casquette of 1976

Very much a genre that took off in the 1970s, the digital-display quartz watch was invented by American watch company Hamilton in 1970 – and positioned as a high-end watch at the time – and over the following decades various watchmakers from Europe and Asia have presented their own takes on the digital watch, though it is the latter that has come to dominate the market. One of the more memorable was the Girard-Perregaux ref. 9931 “Casquette” of 1976 that was especially sci-fi with its aerodynamic design. But after a brief production run it vanished from the brand’s catalogue until a surprising comeback last year with a unique, modernised version made for charity auction Only Watch 2021. And now Girard-Perregaux (GP) has finally taken the covers off the Casquette 2.0, which replicates the style of the original but with updated tech and materials, namely a ceramic and titanium case along with a new movement. Initial thoughts The Casquette 2.0 is a remake done well. It retains the appealing design of the vintage original, which was a good looking but dinky watch, and instead channels resources to improving the construction and functions. The new scratch-resistant ceramic case and bracelet demonstrates GP’s effort in a thoughtfully improved remake, especially since similarly priced watches tend to rely on black-coated steel. At the same time, the watch has improved in its function. It gains a chronograph and a second time zone, both of which are rudimentary but n...

Review: new- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 16202ST Deployant
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Feb 19, 2022

Review: new- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 16202ST

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin is possibly the grail watch for many stainless steel sports watch collectors. In terms of execution, nothing has changed, and if any, it has only gotten better. The new in-house movement is potentially a significant improvement for stability, performance and accuracy. That said, the discontinuation of the older 15202ST with the caliber 2121 has only made the older model much more collectible. The watch retails at USD$33,200, but is hard if not impossible to find at MSRP.

INTRODUCING: The Longines Legend Diver Watch adds new gradient dials to its repertoire Time+Tide
Longines Legend Diver Watch adds Feb 15, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Longines Legend Diver Watch adds new gradient dials to its repertoire

The Longines Legend Diver collection, since its inception in 2007, has presented a strong example of heritage revivals done right. Longines, a trendsetter in this regard, has always done a great job of digging into their rich archives to take beloved designs of the brand and reinterpret them with fresh and flavourful notes that speak … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Legend Diver Watch adds new gradient dials to its repertoire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers – The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Open Feb 7, 2022

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers – The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Open to watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from anywhere in the world, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is an annual affair that seeks to identify the most promising watchmakers of the future. Interestingly, any candidate who has “must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction” can participate, whether or not he or she has formal training. A candidate can enter any type of timepiece – last year’s winner was 29-year old Mario Scarpatetti, whose entry was a longcase clock with a patented secular perpetual calendar mechanism of his own invention. The Kalendar Perpeten clock made by last year’s winner, Mario Scarpatetti Mr Scarpatetti won a CHF20,000 grant sponsored by Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, which is once again the prize for the YTC 2022. The winner will the selected by a jury of industry notables that include Francois-Paul Journe himself, Philippe Dufour, and Giulio Papi, who will make their choice according to four criteria: originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on fpjourne.com.  

Citizen Combines Japanese Paper Dials and Cutting-Edge Quartz SJX Watches
Grand Seiko 9F movement Feb 3, 2022

Citizen Combines Japanese Paper Dials and Cutting-Edge Quartz

Long available only to the Japanese domestic market, Citizen’s top-of-the-line quartz watches have been slowly making their way into foreign countries in recent years (although last year’s high-end mechanical Caliber 0200 was launched internationally). The latest high-end quartz model, however, is being launched globally. The Citizen Iconic Nature Collection is a quartet of lightweight titanium watches featuring dials made of traditional, translucent Japanese paper dyed in vivid, natural colours. But the mechanics are cutting edge in contrast – a solar-powered quartz movement accurate to within five seconds a year. Initial thoughts Citizen’s ultra-accurate quartz watches are largely unknown outside of Japan, but that is gradually changing with the global rollout of new models, which are crucially dressed in eye-catching colours instead of the muted dials historically found on these watches. Citizen has used washi for dials on The Citizen before, but usually in a low-key white. The new Iconic Nature quartet calls to mind high-end quartz watches from Citizen’s Japanese rival, though Citizen’s offering edges ahead, at least on paper. The solar-powered A060 inside the Iconic Nature is accurate to +/- 5 seconds per year, while the Grand Seiko 9F movement is rated to +/- 10 seconds per year. And the practicality of the A060 is boosted by a perpetual calendar as well as an “on-demand” power reserve indicator. The price tag of US$3,500 is might seem high for an...

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato going for nearly twice its retail price Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato going Feb 2, 2022

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato going for nearly twice its retail price

Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the Rolex 2022 price hikes to see which models were most affected and what that meant for buyers worldwide. Today we are going to dive … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato going for nearly twice its retail price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

THE MONTHLY EDIT: The Time+Tide team picks their favourite watch of January 2022 Time+Tide
Feb 1, 2022

THE MONTHLY EDIT: The Time+Tide team picks their favourite watch of January 2022

If you ask the Time+Tide editorial team what we do, unanimously we’ll agree that we are first and foremost watch journalists. At least for me, the mere idea of being an influencer in my role as Deputy Editor irks me. I do not want to influence your decision making, but I take pride in receiving … ContinuedThe post THE MONTHLY EDIT: The Time+Tide team picks their favourite watch of January 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OUR TOP WATCH REVIEW OF 2021: The Casio G-Shock GA2100-1A ‘CasiOak’ Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American … ContinuedThe Jan 30, 2022

OUR TOP WATCH REVIEW OF 2021: The Casio G-Shock GA2100-1A ‘CasiOak’

Editor’s note: Over the last few weeks, we’ve delved into the Top 30 watch reviews of 2021 on the Time+Tide website,  crunching the numbers to compare the traffic on the hundreds of watches we explored. So which watch took out the top spot? Something high-end like the meteorite-dial Rolex Daytona or the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American … ContinuedThe post OUR TOP WATCH REVIEW OF 2021: The Casio G-Shock GA2100-1A ‘CasiOak’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chanel Introduces the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition SJX Watches
Cartier Tank – they are Jan 18, 2022

Chanel Introduces the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition

While Chanel watches were all about the Electro “Rainbow” last year, its 2022 high horology timepieces form the Red Edition Collection. Including in the line up are the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Editions, both ladies watches powered by the same notably interesting in-house movement, the hand-wind Caliber 3. Initial thoughts Chanel puts out fine mechanical movements – the Caliber 1 of the Monsieur exemplifies that – but typically with the bold, varied, and tasteful style that only a fashion house can achieve. The new pair of Boy.Friend Skeleton watches are exactly that. The clean, distinctive shape is inspired by a perfume bottle, but it has a strong form that is appealing. More appealing is the Caliber 3 inside, an in-house movement with a strong geometric aesthetic that suits the case perfectly. It is clear the movement’s developers wanted it to look good, and they succeeded. The Caliber 3 inside the Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray Red Edition with a clear sapphire case Though both watches are certainly large enough to be men’s watches – the case dimensions are similar to a men’s Cartier Tank – they are unquestionably ladies’ watches (and Chanel markets them as such). Given the compelling movement, the Boy.Friend Skeleton one of the most interesting time-only watches for ladies on the market. The Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition in Beige Gold set with rubies Bottle shaped The rectangular case of the Boy.Friend is modelled on the bottle cap of Chanel’s No. 9...

RECOMMENDED VIEWING: “The Watches We Wore The Most This Year” Time+Tide
Jan 11, 2022

RECOMMENDED VIEWING: “The Watches We Wore The Most This Year”

If you want to get know what makes any given watch collector tick, then it is wise to get a sense of what is in their watch collection. But if you really want to dig deeper, then its best to ask which watch they wear the most. Right before the close of 2021, the team … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED VIEWING: “The Watches We Wore The Most This Year” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Last year reaffirmed to me the psychological value of wearing a watch” – Luke’s favourite watches of 2021 Time+Tide
Jan 3, 2022

“Last year reaffirmed to me the psychological value of wearing a watch” – Luke’s favourite watches of 2021

Last year, as Melbourne achieved the dubious victory of edging out Buenos Aires to endure the longest hard lockdown in the world, I was mostly working from home. Dear reader, it’s fair to say that during this period, sartorial standards took a sharp nosedive. I couldn’t get a haircut for almost five months and, at … ContinuedThe post “Last year reaffirmed to me the psychological value of wearing a watch” – Luke’s favourite watches of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Longines HydroConquest gets extra zing with a luxe two-tone look Time+Tide
Longines HydroConquest gets extra zing Dec 31, 2021

VIDEO: The Longines HydroConquest gets extra zing with a luxe two-tone look

Watch brands tend to stick to their guns, whether that’s vintage-inspired reissues or totally modern watches that aren’t afraid to keep evolving. However, Longines are one of very few brands that can pull off both excruciatingly well, and in this case we take a look into the new 2021 collection of HydroConquest modern divers. Although … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines HydroConquest gets extra zing with a luxe two-tone look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Wristshots And Online Watch Photography: The Saga Continues, And, Yes, There’s Instagram Too Quill & Pad
Dec 18, 2021

Wristshots And Online Watch Photography: The Saga Continues, And, Yes, There’s Instagram Too

How time flies! It seems like only yesterday that GaryG penned an article about wristshots. But that was back in 2015. And in 2017 that he posted thoughts and images on how to – and how not to – take watch photographs for sharing. It seemed to Gary that it's about time for an update on both – as while some things remain the same, much has changed.

The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca) Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Dec 2, 2021

The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca)

Wear and tear often bolsters the appeal of a vintage watch. Picture a chronograph dial aged to a warm tropical hue, or a diver’s watch shadowed with caramel patina. Rather than signs of decay, such well-worn details are celebrated as adding character and authenticity. Like the laughter lines on an old man’s face, they’re testimony … ContinuedThe post The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the new Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” everything we hoped for? Time+Tide
Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” Nov 10, 2021

Is the new Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” everything we hoped for?

Speculation has been rampant ever since Tudor announced their renewed partnership with Marine Nationale. With the vintage M.N. issued divers highly coveted and collectable, many were excited for a chance to own a modern take on such a watch. We previously gave our own predictions, detailing what was likely, unlikely, and most fitting for a … ContinuedThe post Is the new Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” everything we hoped for? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Report: Only Watch 2021 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet who bid enthusiastically Nov 8, 2021

Auction Report: Only Watch 2021

Only Watch 2021 was a landmark for the biennial charity auction in both scale and value. Organised by Christie’s, the ninth edition of Only Watch just took place in Geneva, with 53 timepieces having been sold for CHF30 million, or about US$32.8 million. Held for the first time in Palexpo, the sprawling convention centre near Geneva’s airport, Only Watch 2021 saw a turnout of over 850 people inside the cavernous room, a massive uptick in attendance compared to the one or two hundred in past years. People and faces Practically everyone who is someone in Swiss watchmaking turned up, including Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe, Frederic Arnault of TAG Heuer, Tudor chief executive Eric Pirson, as well as independent watchmakers like Kari Voutilainen and Francois-Paul Journe. Even Aurel Bacs and Alex Ghotbi of rival auction house Phillips were spotted seated in the room. Some of the boldface names were also bidding on lots in the auction, including Francois-Henri Bennahmias of Audemars Piguet who bid enthusiastically on the Chanel J12 pair and Jean Arnault of Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps who was after a creation by an independent watchmaker. While there were watch collectors from around the world present – including a contingent from Dubai Watch Club – there were fewer Asian bidders in the room compared to past years, presumably because of the travel restrictions still in place in most Asian countries. That said, many of the crucial bidders from Asia did turn up, inc...

Interview: Raymond Loretan, President of GPHG SJX Watches
Nov 7, 2021

Interview: Raymond Loretan, President of GPHG

A member of Switzerland’s diplomatic corps for some two decades – he was the Swiss Consul General in New York City until 2007 – Raymond Loretan was tapped to become the President of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2018. Just before the 2021 awards ceremony took place in Geneva, we sat down with Mr Loretan to get his thoughts on how the GPHG has evolved and where it is going. Raymond Loretan making the opening speech at the 2021 GPHG ceremony. Photo – GPHG Benjamin Teisseire: You have overseen profound changes at the GPHG since you took over as president in 2018. Is everything going as planned? Raymond Loretan: So far yes. We created the Academy last year and it represents a big change in paradigm for the Grand Prix. It worked well with the 350 members but with some glitches, which we have now learned from. This year, it worked even more smoothly with over 500 members of the Academy. No technical issues with the digital platforms and academicians were involved at all stages in the selection process. But the goal is to double this number of academicians in the next two to three years. That’s because it is the way to assert the three principles on which the Grand Prix is built. First of all is the Neutrality that has been questioned in the past. With this new way of working, this important pillar will be guaranteed. The second one is Universality. The more people coming from all over the world, the better this diversity will be represented. And it...

Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 Deployant
Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 Oct 30, 2021

Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42

The Breitling Premier B15 Duograph is Breitling’s take on a split second chronograph with a center monopusher. Featuring rectangular chronograph pushers and Arabic numerals, the heritage-revived Premier Duograph displays a variety of details such as grooves on the case-sides, open sapphire casebacks and syringe hands. The Duograph comes in stainless steel with a blue dial or in 18k red gold with a black dial.

Highlights: Vintage Patek Philippe – and One Special Day-Date – at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 9, 2021

Highlights: Vintage Patek Philippe – and One Special Day-Date – at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

With Sotheby’s Hong Kong sale just around the corner, we’re rounding up a half-dozen notable vintage watches from the auction, primarily big-ticket Patek Philippe complications. Amongst them a few oddities, one a Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Senza Luna”, a perpetual calendar with the moon phase omitted, and the other the Rolex Day-Date with a  “Submariner” dial. With the preview exhibition open daily from now till October 12, the auction will take place on October 13. The catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2265: Patek Philippe ref. 130 The oldest watch of the selection is a Patek Philippe ref. 130, the brand’s first serially-produced wristwatch chronograph that remained in the catalogue for over three decades. The model’s longevity makes it an inevitability that a good number of ref. 130 variants exist. Indeed, the model varies greatly in terms case material and dial design, with some combinations being rarer than others. One such rare combination is a steel case with “sector” dial, like the present example. Made by Wenger, the steel cases of the ref. 130 have shorter and wider-spaced lugs compared to the gold cases that made by Vichet, giving the 33 mm case a more imposing appearance Chronograph wristwatches from that era typically feature tiny counters that sit close to the edge of the dial, leaving the dial clean and distinctly vintage. But the “sector” dial here is an entirely different animal – the sect...

Wrist Watching: 3 Of Eddie Van Halen’s Watches As Amazing As His Guitar Solos . . . From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Corum, And Bell & Ross – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Corum Oct 6, 2021

Wrist Watching: 3 Of Eddie Van Halen’s Watches As Amazing As His Guitar Solos . . . From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Corum, And Bell & Ross – Reprise

Van Halen was the catalyst kicking off Elizabeth Doerr's lifelong passion for rock music as the first band she stumbled across in this genre (but most certainly not the last). One cursory listen to “Eruption” and she was hooked on rock for life. In honor of the anniversary of Eddie Van Halen's untimely death on October 6, 2020, cue “Eruption” and take a look at three tasteful and fun watches the guitar god owned and wore.