Results for IWC Mark XX

F Fratello

Fratello

Breitling Chronomat B01 42 UK Feb 16, 2024

Meet The Stealthy New Breitling Chronomat B01 42 UK Limited Edition

Breitling has unveiled a stealthy new Chronomat limited to 250 pieces and exclusive to the UK market. It’s the marvel of monochrome that many, including me, have wished to see Breitling’s hero watch become. While other dial colors and accents are flashy and stylish, something is reassuring about a classic black dial with a steel […] Visit Meet The Stealthy New Breitling Chronomat B01 42 UK Limited Edition to read the full article.

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Vulcain Building Feb 15, 2024

The Grand Prix is the Latest Historic Reference to be Revived by Vulcain

Building on a rich heritage spanning over 165 years, Swiss watchmaker Vulcain continues to draw attention in the watch industry with each new reissue. Under the leadership of Guillaume Laidet, Vulcain’s Chief Revival Officer, the brand has been on a trajectory of reinterpreting its iconic timepieces, breathing new life into past references. Since 2022, Vulcain has been setting the tone for each season with strategic launches of emblematic collections, including the Cricket, Skindiver, Nautical, and more. Today, Vulcain has rereleased another popular model, the highly anticipated Grand Prix. Originally introduced in the 1960s to commemorate Vulcain’s triumph at the 1929 Barcelona International Exhibition, the Grand Prix returns with a diameter of 39mm, a great contemporary size with plenty of presence for a variety of wrists. The Vulcain Grand Prix 39mm really exemplifies Swiss elegance. Its slim and uncluttered design is a no-fuss interpretation of a clean, vintage watch that will surely garner the attention of those looking for that “Old Money” aesthetic we hear so much about on TikTok nowadays. Equipped with a Swiss Landeron automatic movement, the time-only watch features a domed crystal over a dial in Champagne, Light Grey, or Black with a semi-glossy sunray finish. With a brushed/polished steel case and polished hour markers on the dial, these vintage-inspired elements are complemented by a double-dome sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, ensuring op...

Read article

M Monochrome

Monochrome

Omega Constellation 41mm Meteorite Collection Feb 15, 2024

First Look – The new Omega Constellation 41mm Meteorite Collection

One of the oldest collections in Omega’s history, the Constellation has been around since 1952 (only surpassed in longevity by the Seamaster). First a classic, elegant chronometer-rated watch, the Omega Constellation drastically changed in the 1980s with the introduction of the Constellation Manhattan distinguished by its integrated design and hallmark claws. Revived in 2019 with […]

Read article

T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Breitling Feb 13, 2024

Breitling Top Time Watch Guide

When you think of James Bond watches, the first models that likely come to mind would probably be from Omega, or Rolex, or - depending on which Bond era you prefer - maybe even Seiko. But one of the most memorable wristwatch scenes in Bond’s cinematic history has a Breitling as its star.   In 1965’s Thunderball, the fourth movie in the popular series starring Ian Fleming’s Agent 007, star Sean Connery spends most of his screen time wearing the same watch that he wore in his previous three outings as Bond: a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538, now known by many collectors as the quintessential “James Bond Rolex.” However, in one key scene, Bond swaps out the Submariner for another watch: a heavily modified Breitling Top Time Ref. 2002, a steel-cased, black-dialed chronograph with two white subdials, applied baton hour markers, and a tachymeter scale surrounding the dial. (The actual watch is pictured above, sans strap, photo via Christie's.) In the movie’s fictional universe, the watch - one of many gadget-packed timepieces assigned to Bond by MI-6 weapons supplier Q throughout the film series - is also equipped with a built-in Geiger counter; Bond uses it to track a cache of stolen nuclear warheads hidden deep underwater by his adversaries from the criminal organization SPECTRE.  The watch was the only Breitling ever worn by any James Bond actor on screen - though, interestingly enough, another Breitling, a Navitimer 806, also appeared briefly in Thunderbal...

Read article

T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Feb 10, 2024

What does “limited edition” actually mean in the watch world?

Tom takes a good hard look at the watch industry's favourite marketing tactic.The post What does “limited edition” actually mean in the watch world? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Bremont Airco Mach 3 $2,000 Feb 9, 2024

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Varun Jindal

Editor’s Note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Varun Jindal, @vkj622 on Instagram picks three watches that cover just about every base imaginable. He has a varied collection, but left to three watches at this price point he went with two that lean heavily to the sporty end of the spectrum, and a third for those times when he needs to dress a bit more formally. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. If you were ever compelled to track my journey as a watch enthusiast and collector looking for a pattern, you’d pull your hair out. I’ll save everyone some time. There isn’t one! My humble roster comprises multiple Xetum watches, a Bulova diver I address below, and a Seiko “Pepsi” SKX from the Middle East. Spoiler Alert: It’s not the 009! As a modern-day ad man my personal style leans toward smart casual and formalwear only makes an appearance at weddings. To that note, if I ever catch anybody wearing an Apple Watch with a suit, I’ll immediately refer to them as Spy Kid (loudly and publicly). The Apple Watch is not a watch and that’s a hill I’m willing to die on! You know better. You read Worn and Wound. The timing of this feature couldn’t be better as I step into a second decade in marketing and firmly plant both feet in my mid-thirties. So without further ado, please find my handpicked triple threat around 5k below. Bremont Airco Mach 3: $2,000 Bremont first came on m...

Read article

T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Feb 7, 2024

12 Pink-Dial and Salmon-Dial Watches from Affordable to Luxury

Watches with pink dials used to be fairly rare, and confined almost exclusively to dainty timepieces aimed at jewelry-loving ladies. In recent years, however, pink tones have found their way to a wide variety of timepieces, ranging from dressy and elegant to casual and sporty - many of which have found an avid audience among male enthusiasts as well as female. With Valentine’s Day around the corner, we’ve compiled a list of pink-dialed watches (along with several that qualify more as “salmon,” pink’s peach-toned, more muted cousin) in a variety of price ranges from under $1,000 up to $25,000. While many would primarily be regarded as ladies’ watches, the goal here is to spotlight timepieces with unisex appeal: every timepiece here is 34mm or larger, and almost none have a trace of jewelry. Maurice Lacroix Aikon Tide Pink Price: $750, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 11mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Quartz  Introduced in 2022, Maurice Lacroix’s beach-ready Aikon Tide has a case constructed from a revolutionary composite material that combines ocean-recovered plastic with glass fiber. The resulting substance is twice as hard as standard plastic and five times more resistant, with the added bonus of also having a smaller carbon footprint than regular PET. This model’s pink dial bears the familiar aesthetic hallmarks of the brand’s flagship Aikon sport-luxury collection, including the distinctive “clawed” case, somewhat Royal-Oak-...

Read article

M Monochrome

Monochrome

Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT Feb 5, 2024

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305 honours Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary

This year marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko‘s introduction of the 9R movement, featuring its revolutionary Spring Drive technology. The concept, conceived in the 1970s and which took decades to implement, aimed to blend the force of a mainspring with electronic watchmaking technology and surpass the precision of conventional mechanical watches. Now, 9R-family calibres […]

Read article

W WatchAdvice

WatchAdvice

Squale Feb 3, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Squale MATIC Australian Limited Edition

We’ve gone hands on with the Australian limited edition Squale MATIC, sold exclusively through StarBuy. Here’s what we think! What We Love The green gradient dialWearability for a large watchTropic strap is very comfortable in Summer What We Don’t Crown at 4 o’clock is hard to useDomed crystal reflects a lot of lightNot for the faint of wrist Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 7.5/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Squale may not be a brand you would have heard mentioned too often. It dates back to the 50’s when Charles and Helene Von Buren established the Von Büren SA watch factory in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Being passionate divers, their focus was on developing watches specifically for underwater use, which at the time in 1950 was 3 years prior to the Submariner and Fifty Fathoms making their debut. However, it would be almost 10 years before they are able to obtain a patent and register the Squale brand name, and then another 3 before their first watches would hit the market in 1962. The rest as they say is history (quite literally) and today, the brand is still solely focused on dive watches and what you would call a quintessential tool watch. They’re designed for a purpose – to be easy to use and read underwater with maximum legibility and functionality. They’re less a fashion statement, but then again, most watches that are fashionable were originally intended as something else. The form is now greater than the function they’v...

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Feb 1, 2024

The New Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Celebrates a Big Anniversary by Updating a Mid Century Classic

It’s like we always say: every year is an anniversary year. As surely as the sky is blue and the tax bill comes every spring, watch brands will celebrate major (and not so major, to be honest) anniversaries with new watch releases. This year, Longines is celebrating what is actually a fairly big milestone for their Conquest collection, which turns 70 in 2024. This line is pure mid century elegance, which in my opinion never really went out of fashion, even if sportier watches have been the focus of the watch world for much of the last decade. The Conquest watches immediately evoke a period of time when you could wear a fedora unironically, and smoke cigarettes indoors. A simpler time, before we felt the need to place watches into distinct categories, and they were just watches. You get a little taste of that with the new Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, as well as a very cool execution of a common complication.  The new reference seen here is a reinterpretation of a watch that made its debut in 1959 and featured a power reserve indicator in the center of the dial, which functioned with two rotating discs. The modern version uses the same principle as the watch from the 50s, with a power reserve indicator tied to an uncoiling disc marked with a baton shaped indicator that tracks the movement’s power over the course of its 64 hours of running time. Seeing the power reserve at the center of the dial seems remarkably intuitive, and Longines, for their part, take c...

Read article

F Fratello

Fratello

Jan 30, 2024

Hands-On With The Extravagant Cyrus Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon

Last November, I got my first taste of the remarkable creations of Cyrus Genève. The Klepcys GMT Palm Green and Ocean Blue were a striking combination of state-of-the-art design and impressive watchmaking. They were a great first taste, for sure. Another one of the brand’s standout pieces is the Klepcys DICE, which Cyrus released just […] Visit Hands-On With The Extravagant Cyrus Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon to read the full article.

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Hublot Masterpiece Series Jan 30, 2024

The Latest in the Hublot Masterpiece Series: the Hublot MP-10

There are few brands that illicit divisive opinions quite as effectively as Hublot. The watches are big, expensive, aggressively designed, overwhelming, and unmistakable. Some, like Worn & Wound’s Zach Kazan, find themselves inexplicably drawn toward the boldness of Hublot, while others find the brand’s chosen path slightly more challenging. Whether you love or hate Hublot, there’s no denying that they have been remarkably consistent in their approach, even if the watches have evolved dramatically over the years. I find myself falling somewhere in between the two camps, appreciating the willingness to experiment and technical expertise Hublot demonstrates, even on the occasions I find myself unconvinced by their chosen aesthetic. But I always take notice of their big swings, and the release of the latest piece from the Hublot Masterpiece (or MP) collection is undoubtedly a big swing. Since the inaugural release way back in 2011, the MP collection has served as a platform for Hublot to push the bounds of their technical watchmaking, and it has resulted in some awesome watches over the years. Notable examples that spring to mind are the MP-05 LaFerrari, with its 50-day power reserve and a winding mechanism that required an included power drill to operate, and the MP-08 Antikythera SunMoon, which was inspired by the same ancient device as the MacGuffin in the latest Indiana Jones movie. Looking back at previous MP releases, there can be no doubt that this latest additio...

Read article

S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

TAG Heuer Introduces Jan 29, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces the Aquaracer Solargraph 34 mm

Following the original Aquaracer Solargraph two years ago, the affordable solar-powered dive watch now debuts in a more compact format with the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph that has a 34 mm case containing the solar-powered TH50-01. Initial thoughts The Aquaracer has long been one of TAG Heuer’s main entry-level offerings. For several years, however, the models were mostly big or bulky, until the brand released the more wearable and solar-powered 40 mm model two years ago. The new Solargraph maintains the familiar design and solar-powered movement but with a smaller case. With a diameter of 34 mm, this model leans towards being a women’s watch, so an in-between or “mid size” model of 37 mm or 38 mm is arguably still missing. Nevertheless, the vibrant dial offerings – that importantly do not reveal the solar panels – are noteworthy and hopefully indicate more variety is coming to the larger model. With prices starting at US$2,150, the value proposition  is reasonable, given the execution of the case and dial, and the innovative solar calibre (at least for a Swiss brand). As an aside, Swiss-made solar-powered movements are relatively uncommon, making this a relatively unusual proposition. While there have been a handful of solar-powered models from Cartier, they haven’t made it to the market in significant numbers, perhaps due to difficulties in mastering production on a large scale. In contrast, Japanese brands like Citizen easily produce several mil...

Read article

S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

TAG Heuer Revisits Jan 29, 2024

TAG Heuer Revisits the Carrera Dato in “Glassbox” Guise

TAG Heuer unveils its latest releases at LVMH Watch Week 2024 now taking place in Miami, starting off with Carrera Chronograph “Dato”. Taking its cues from the original “Dato” ref. 3147 of 1968, the new Carrera features the model’s trademark date window at nine but in the contemporary “Glassbox”, accentuated by a metallic, brushed green dial inspired by the British racing green livery of historical racing cars. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer steadily built on the success of the Carrera “Glassbox” with several vintage-inspired designs, such as the gold and black “John Player Special” and the yacht-ready Skipper. This continues with the new Carrera that retains the original “Dato” dial with its unconventional date window at nine, minutes totaliser at three, and “Swiss” seated high above six. But like its predecessors in the “Glassbox” line, the latest “Dato” is not a vintage remake, but rather a modern watch with vintage-inspired looks. And while the green dial is in tune with current fashions, it gives the design a contemporary feel, further setting it apart from the vintage original. Except for the dial, the “Dato” is still fundamentally a Carrera “Glassbox” and is priced correctly at US$6,550, which is US$100 more than the standard model. Like the other variants of the “Glassbox”, the Dato holds its own against competitors, thanks to its strong execution and high-quality, in-house movement, though it arguably has an edge over ...

Read article

F Fratello

Fratello

Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Space Surfer Jan 29, 2024

IFL Watches Introduces The Fun Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Space Surfer

IFL Watches is one of the remarkable success stories of the past few years within the world of watches. I vividly remember seeing the brand’s Tissot PRX Arctic Sky and Midnight Sky models for the first time. At the hands of IFLW’s artists, the PRX had transformed into something even more unique with beautiful handpainted […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Fun Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Space Surfer to read the full article.

Read article

T Two Broke Watch Snobs

Two Broke Watch Snobs

Jan 29, 2024

Artem Straps | Testing Aftermarket Sailcloth Options

A close look at Artem Sailcloth Straps and the company's “Loopless” system. How exactly do these work once they're broken in?

Read article

S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Jan 26, 2024

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin “Thunder God” and “Wind God”

One of the most striking – no pun intended – timepieces created by Vacheron Constantin in recent memory are Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin “Thunder God” and “Wind God”. Created for an Japanese-themed art exhibition in 2022, the two form a matched pair of striking watches, each featuring an miniature enamel dial reproducing one half of Wind God and Thunder God, a pair of folding screens so important they are a National Treasure of Japan. Initial thoughts Each year Vacheron Constantin (VC) introduces a sizeable Les Cabinotiers collection, typically several dozen watches in all, made up of one-off timepieces that are either complicated, decorated with artisanal techniques, or both. Last year’s line-up included a handful of ornate tourbillon watches and a diamond-set dragon watch. The “Wind God” and “Thunder God” duo, however, rank amongst the most impressive of the Les Cabinotiers. “Wind God” and “Thunder God” are variants of the regular production VC minute repeater, which is ordinarily a somewhat plain, large watch with a slim profile. The 41 mm case of the repeater, however, makes it ideal as a canvas, particularly for artwork that is large scale in real life, as the Wind God and Thunder God folding screens are. At a distance, both watches appear to be exceedingly plain, but up close each reveals remarkable miniature enamelling on the dial and a finely chased case accented by gemstones on the minute repeater slide. The case engravi...

Read article

F Fratello

Fratello

Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing - Jan 23, 2024

The Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing - It Has Been 20 Years

Two decades ago, Omega reintroduced the racing dial to the Speedmaster Professional. It was only for the Japanese market, and only 2,004 pieces were produced. As you might know, there are more of them around, but we’ll get to that later. Speedmaster Japan Racing 3570.40 First, let’s go back 20 years. At that time, Omega […] Visit The Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing - It Has Been 20 Years to read the full article.

Read article

M Monochrome

Monochrome

Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Jan 23, 2024

Introducing – The Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Skeleton by Peter Speake

Frederique Constant, renowned, among other things, for its remarkable price-to-quality ratio, surprised the watch community with its original Slimline Perpetual Calendar model 2016. This competitively priced (under EUR 10,000) watch, equipped with the brand’s FC-775 perpetual calendar calibre, quickly gained recognition. In 2022, Frederique Constant presented an unexpected update to this model through a collaboration […]

Read article

S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin Jan 19, 2024

Breguet Introduces an Atypical Classique for the Year of the Dragon

Continuing a recent streak of unusual designs that depart from its traditional formality, Breguet is marking the Chinese Lunar New Year with the Classique “Dragon” ref. 7145BR. Unlike last year’s “Rabbit” edition that was a whimsical ladies’ watch, this year’s Chinese zodiac edition is an ultra-thin men’s watch with a surprisingly vivid and figurative enamel dial in two shades of red. Initial thoughts A dragon-themed watch is not unexpected, and Breguet joins brands like Vacheron Constantin and Blancpain in launching such watches for the Lunar New Year. The watch itself, however, is a radical departure from the usual Breguet style in both colour and execution. Even though there are enough elements on the dial to mark it out as a Breguet, the aesthetic is more elaborate than the average Breguet, which tends towards classical restraint. Even though it is different, I like this approach because it offers something new in terms of aesthetics. That said, the engraved dragon appliqué isn’t exactly right in terms of design. The creature is too stout and lacks the slender proportions of the dragon as portrayed in Classical Chinese art. The overall aesthetic would have been much improved with a restyled dragon. The execution is in the high quality expected of Breguet, so the dragon is solid gold and the dial is grand feu enamel. As a result, the price is US$77,800, significantly greater than the standard Classique 5157, but within the ballpark for such metiers d...

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Rolex   Jan 18, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00

I think there’s a certain trajectory to watch collecting that the vast majority of enthusiasts will be familiar with. It’s been discussed at length, and might even represent something of a self fulfilling prophecy at this point. It goes something like this: you start out with the fan favorite affordables, dabble in big Swiss brands that take a depreciation hit and can be found readily on enthusiast buy/sell/trade platforms, discover the insane variety and value of microbrands, and then eventually, if it’s a brand that has meant something to you before you even knew that watch collecting was a thing, you wind up at Rolex.  This is vastly oversimplified of course, but a version of this has happened to me and many collectors I know personally. Muy own observation though is that it’s what happens next that really determines where you go in the hobby. Because there’s a path where you just keep acquiring Rolex sports watches like Pokemon. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with that – they are objectively excellent watches to own. But I think a certain number of collectors have a Tony Soprano, late season 6 moment sometime after picking up that GMT-Master or Submariner, and ask themselves: is this all there is? $8000 Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00 Case Titanium Movement Schwarz-Etienne ASE200 Dial Plum Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 40.7 x 49mm Thickness 11.6mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Ye...

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Tudor Jan 16, 2024

Seiko Adds a Pair of New References to their Popular Black Series

There is a particular appeal to a stealthed-out tool watch. Maybe it’s the idea that the original design has been placed on the backburner for a more urgent, clandestine, reason. Or the ironic low-key aesthetic that often makes even more of a visual impact. We’ve seen various brands take the “blackout” approach, from Omega to Tudor, and the results are typically pretty intriguing. Seiko currently has a trio of black and orange watches under the Prospex collection that it calls “The Black Series”, but today it infuses the lineup with two new references that take things a step further by eliminating any colored accents and going for an (almost) all-out black look. These are the new 2024 Black Series SRPK43 and SSC923. The first of the new references, the SRPK43 is a familiar form but with a new face. It is 45mm wide but with a stout 47.4mm lug to lug measurement. Thickness is 13.2mm. The turtle-style stainless steel case and accompanying bracelet are, naturally, all black, as is the unidirectional ceramic bezel. In a nice touch, the day and date wheels have matching black backgrounds.  The only use of color is in the lume, which Seiko calls “Green Lumibrite Pro”. In the light, it is a pale green; at night it shines a more vivid green. The intended effect is to give the impression of peering through night vision goggles, and we’ll have to see the watches in person to assess how well Seiko has hit their mark. The SRPK43 is powered by the automatically-windin...

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Timex Collection Jan 16, 2024

The Marlin Jet is a Sleek New Addition to a Classic Timex Collection

The 1960s stands out as one of the most influential decades in shaping modern design and culture. Two decades into post-War America, the ’60s embodied hope, opportunity, and expansion. This transformative era not only aimed for the moon but also ushered in a jet-setting culture that offered a fresh, futuristic perspective on classic mid-century design. Drawing inspiration from this dynamic period, the Marlin Jet, the latest addition to the Marlin line, encapsulates the essence of the ’60s. True to the Marlin lineage, the Jet seamlessly blends contemporary and retro design elements into a versatile daily-wear timepiece. With a modest 38mm size, this watch effortlessly transitions from day to evening, fitting under a suit jacket or hoodie without losing its sense of style. Beyond its brushed 38mm stainless steel case, the Marlin Jet’s allure lies in the domed Hesalite crystal, a defining feature that adds a new dimension to Timex’s retro-futuristic vision. This crystal spans the entire top surface, smoothly integrating into the flat case sides and leaving only the lugs exposed. The transition from the case sides to the case back mirrors the crystal’s dome, creating a coherent case profile and adding significantly to an aesthetic that is reminiscent of what “futuristic” looked like in the Jet Age. Additional design highlights include the silver-white concave dial, featuring a crosshair pattern and a 24-hour format sub-dial beside the 9 o’clock marker, bringing...

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Jan 15, 2024

Hands-On: the Direnzo DRZ06 Wandering Star

I always look forward to checking out a new release from Direnzo. There’s always more than meets the eye, and the DRZ06 Wandering Star is no exception. The watch is a marriage of the familiar and the unexpected. In this case, the ‘familiar’ is an evolution of Direnzo’s retro-futuristic design language, including a dish-shaped dial, bold colors, and organic-feeling markers cut into a sandwich dial. The ‘unexpected’ is the presence of a mystery dial. It’s now some years since I wrote about the originals and heyday of the Mystery Dial here, but it’s still a feature I’d like to see more of. I guess many watchmakers might be deterred from attempting this as it’s difficult to avoid the mystery being the interesting thing about a watch and therefore becoming little more than a gimmick. Perhaps the reason it has been implemented successfully as part of the DRZ06 Wandering Star is that we just have a mystery sub-dial for the running seconds, with a lone red dot slowly spinning around against the lumed backdrop. Last summer I spent some time with Direnzo’s previous release – a reworking of one of their earliest models. The case of the new DRZ06 is similar in shape to that of the DRZ02 Aerolite, but with some subtle changes that blend to give a different character. For starters, the brushed steel bezel is larger in every way. Despite the main watch case being a soft square shape, this strong bezel makes the watch feel far rounder. The Wandering Star still pull...

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances Jan 15, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve with Subtle Updates

Many in the watch community are predicting that 2024 will be year where we see a wider adoption of avant-garde and modern design as the pendulum continues to swing away from vintage inspired classicism. This is a good thing, and worth celebrating. But there will always be a market for elegant, classic designs. The kind that have been nailed down and perfect for decades, and define the “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” mentality. There isn’t a brand out there that is more in tune with this style of watchmaking than Jaeger-LeCoultre. Similar to Rolex, they iterate slowly, and don’t adhere to the (false) notion that buzzy new releases are required as part of an industry cycle. They just kind of do their thing, and it almost always results in a beautiful object. Their latest, the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, is familiar in many ways but has several small changes that make it even more refined.  Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra thin watches are a niche of a niche unto themselves. For years, even before the current Thinness Wars really took shape, JLC has been adept at getting the best possible performance from impossibly thin movements, and taking advantage of their diminutive dimensions by housing them in exceedingly well designed watches that take full advantage of their size. For the new Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, JLC’s Caliber 938 has been reworked slightly to increase the total power reserve to a healthy 70 hours without drastically changing the movement...

Read article

S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 Twenty twenty-one Jan 15, 2024

In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001

Twenty twenty-one was an important year for Grand Seiko as it saw the introduction of the brand’s latest-generation mechanical movement, the cal. 9SA5. A modern movement with attractive aesthetic and proprietary escapement, the cal. 9SA5 debuted in the Heritage “White Birch” SLGH005. But Grand Seiko didn’t stop there. Building upon the flagship calibre, Grand Seiko created the cal. 9SC5 and launched the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. A large, sporty watch but entirely in lightweight titanium, the Tentagraph is a milestone for Grand Seiko (GS) as the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph. “Tentagraph” is self-explanatory, an acronym outlining the key features of the watch and cal. 9SC5 within: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph has all the tactile features expected in a modern, high-spec sports chronograph, namely substantial proportions and crisp, smooth pusher action. As expected for GS, it boasts high quality finishing inside and out, with the case in particular having category-leading finishing and detailing. And from a technical perspective, it is notable for being the high-frequency chronograph with the longest power reserve on the market – the balance runs at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz, and the power reserve is 72 hours, or three days. Aesthetically, the Tentagraph is refreshingly modern. It retains the characteristic GS design, but tweaked to accentuate the sport...

Read article

S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Seiko Brings “Prospex Black Series” Jan 12, 2024

Seiko Brings “Prospex Black Series” into Regular Production

After implementing the all-black aesthetic only in limited editions, Seiko has revived the Prospex Black Series but now as part of the standard catalogue.  Based on familiar models from the current lineup – the Prospex Sea “Turtle” diver (SRPK43) and the Prospex Speedtimer solar-powered chronograph (SSC923). Whilst the monochromatic black-on-black palette is a favourite for sports watches, the standout feature of the new pair is the green luminous paint on the hands and indices that has a retro feel, being reminiscent of the luminous radium applied to watch dials for most of the 20th century. Initial thoughts It’s gratifying to know the once limited Black Series is now accessible as part of the regular product line, since it’s an appealing, affordable sports watch. Admittedly this will be disappointing to some owners of past models that were limited editions, but it is not surprising considering the success of the earlier versions from 2017 and 2020. As for the watches themselves, the green Lumibrite on the hands and markers is the key differentiating factor, with the rest of each watch having the same design and dimensions as their standard steel equivalents. A useful extra would have been additional strap or bracelet options for a wider range of looks, particularly since all-black watches are now often paired with high-contrast straps. The Speedtimer is priced at US$700, while the Turtle retails for US$725. Each cost slightly more than the standard steel vers...

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Citizen Drops Jan 9, 2024

Citizen Drops a Pair of Godzilla Themed Ecozillas for the 70th Anniversary of the King of the Monsters

Godzilla, as he does from time to time, is having a moment. Godzilla Minus One was an unexpected hit in theaters at the end of last year, and as the first Godzilla film from Toho Co. studios to break through in America in years, it has some fans discovering a different side of the King of the Monsters. The Toho films, going back decades to the original Godzilla movies of the 1950s, have generally been a little more character driven and subtle than the bombastic, special effects laden American films. And a new Godzilla themed watch from Citizen is similarly subtle. It doesn’t beat you over the head (or…breathe fire at you) with Godzilla references, but it’s still clearly inspired by the iconic movie monster.  It makes perfect sense for the Citizen Eco-Drive Professional Diver 300 to be the platform for a new Godzilla watch – the dive watch has long been known as the “Ecozilla” to collectors, and Citizen is happy to play up the connection. The watch arrives in a year that’s important to both Godzilla and Citizen, as each has a milestone birthday to celebrate: Godzilla turns 70, and Citizen marks the 100th anniversary of their first watch this year.  The dial and bezel assembly of the new Godzilla piece feature a camo pattern that’s meant to recall the scales of Godzilla’s skin, and you’ll also find very small renditions of Godzilla within the pattern itself. There are two dial variants being offered, one in a classic black and another in a more in-your-...

Read article

M Monochrome

Monochrome

Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF Jan 5, 2024

In-Depth – The Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF in Titanium, And What High-Frequency Means

In 2012, Chopard made waves with the introduction of the L.U.C 8HF, featuring the groundbreaking L.U.C 01.06-L calibre with a silicon escapement, oscillating at an impressive 8Hz (57,600 vibrations/hour), double the speed of most mechanical movements. Notably, it became the first high-frequency calibre to receive chronometer certification, marking a significant milestone. Encouraged by this success, […]

Read article

M Monochrome

Monochrome

Bell & Ross BR 03 Gyrocompass Puts Jan 4, 2024

Hands-on – The Bell & Ross BR 03 Gyrocompass Puts a Flight Instrument on your Wrist

Last year marked an important milestone for Bell & Ross when the brand updated its iconic BR 03 collection after well over fifteen years of loyal service. The brand’s instrument-inspired collection is renowned for its extremely legible (in most cases) and recognizable design ethos based on a square case and a circular dial with a […]

Read article