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New: Breguet Classique 9075 2023 Chinese New Year Edition
Breguet's release for the Year of the Rabbit 2023, is this new Classique 9075 with an artistic interpretation of rabbits on the dial.
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Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Minase Horizon and 5 Windows Midsize
There has been no shortage of love for Minase in recent times, and for good reason. The Japanese brand is consistently producing watches that challenge the artistry of much larger luxury brands for a fraction of the cost, and their originality goes far beyond simply changing up some dial designs. Expanding their list of potential … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Minase Horizon and 5 Windows Midsize appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Classique 9075 “Chinese New Year”
Continuing its annual tradition of commemorative editions for the Chinese Lunar Year, Breguet introduces the Classique 9075 “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of the Water Rabbit set to start in January 2023. While last year’s “Tiger” edition was a men’s watch with a hand-engraved dial, this year’s watch is artisanal yet whimsical in a manner that is atypical for the typically conservative brand. Initial thoughts It is always lovely to see a timepiece that makes you smile, especially from a brand that is usually formal. While Breguet debuts special editions regularly, it often utilises guilloche for the dials, as is the brand’s trademark. So the playful dial on the Classique 9075 is refreshing. The prancing-rabbit motif manages to be whimsical without being bold and loud, and still retains the elegance and grace expected of Breguet. And of course the grand feu enamel dial is executed with intricate detail and craftsmanship. The Classique 9075, however, is a women’s watch, not because of the design but the compact case diameter of 33.5 mm as well as the diamonds on the bezel and lugs. A masculine version – scaled up and sans diamonds – would certainly have appeal for male enthusiasts. At CHF43,000, the Classique 9075 is priced in the same ballpark as comparable models in the regular production collection, making it a compelling alternative to the average Breguet. But it will only be an alternative for very few as the watch is limited to o...
Quill & Pad
Breguet Reine de Naples References 9835 & 9838: Declaring A Love Of Timeless Elegance
In the newly introduced Breguet Reine de Naples References 9835 and 9838, the minute hand has become a sporty, elegant declaration of love. These intriguing hands feature a unique mechanism that traces the minute track around the edge of the oval dial in a singular way, at times looking like a heart.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage 110th Anniversary SPB359
Seiko made history when it produced the first-ever made-in-Japan wristwatch in 1913. Known as the Laurel, the 1913 wristwatch was typical of the era when pocket watches were evolving into wristwatches. To mark the 110th anniversary of its first wristwatch, Seiko debuts the Presage Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary ref. SPB359. Featuring a fired enamel dial, the Presage 110th Anniversary is modelled on the 1913 original, right down to the case reminiscent of a pocket watch. Initial thoughts Seiko regularly rolls out Presage limited editions with dials ranging from porcelain to Japanese lacquer, but all share the same case style despite the diversity in dials. In contrast, the Presage 110th Anniversary is refreshingly different and unique within the Presage line-up. Not only is the case executed in the style of an early 20th century watch, it is also more compact than the typical Presage, measuring at 37.5 mm in diameter instead of the usual 40.5 mm. That said, the new Presage is still fairly thick at over 12 mm high as a consequence of the movement inside. Both the case design and dimensions give it a distinctly different look and feel from past Presage models. This means the anniversary edition has appeal even for someone who already owns a past Presage model. And as expected for Seiko, the Presage 110th Anniversary is solid value with a retail price of about US$2,000. The 1913 Laurel in the Seiko Museum Retro styling Entirely polished and stainless steel, the case of t...
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Squale Blancpain Fifty Fathoms New Old Stock 1950s Cases Limited Editions with No Radiation Dials!!!
Teddy Baldassarre
Why do Watches Use Sapphire Crystals? A Brief History and a Few Altern
Watches differ greatly in their sizes, designs, capabilities, straps and bracelets, and even in the materials used to make their cases. The one element that nearly always seems to be present when we peruse watches’ specifications is the use of sapphire for the crystal (for the newest of newbies, that’s the round, glass window over the dial). Over a certain “luxury” price point, a sapphire crystal is not even seen as a benefit but the baseline standard, like tempered laminated glass in a car windshield. How did sapphire come to play this key supporting role in watch manufacturing, and what did watchmakers use before it came along? For that matter, what differentiates different types of sapphire crystals from each other? Which materials other than sapphire are still being used in the watch industry, and why? And is sapphire being used for anything else in horological circles besides crystals? What are the properties of sapphire? Believe it or not, that little lens over the dial of your watch is made from one of the hardest substances on Earth. It is one of two precious gemstones from the mineral variety corundum, the other being ruby. Corundum, a crystallized aluminum oxide, is clear in its purest state; sapphires and rubies receive their blue and red colors, respectively from impurities: traces of titanium, and iron in the former, and of chromium in the latter. Sapphire (above) has a ratio of 9 on the Mohs Hardness scale. Among minerals, only moissanite, a naturally...
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite, Where Global Travel Meets Outer Space – Reprise
GaryG had the opportunity to borrow a Rolex GMT-Master II BLRO Meteorite from a long-time friend to photograph and wear. This watch's main event is the dial, a thin slice of metallic meteorite whose crystalline structure reflects the slow cooling process that took place as the meteor hurtled through space. Here he tries a variety of photographic techniques to learn which works best on the dial's unique structures. Which are your favorites?
Time+Tide
Phillips adds a sector touch to their limited-edition Bulgari Octo Finissimo
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is known first and foremost for its baroque-sculptural case design. But another defining feature across the Finissimo Automatic line is the clean dial that crops up through the collection. These dials are typically not very busy, either brushed, sun-ray lacquered, or matte sandblasted, with simply the hour indices and an asymmetrically … ContinuedThe post Phillips adds a sector touch to their limited-edition Bulgari Octo Finissimo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase stuns with its diamond-studded designs
This trio of novelties from the Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase collection encompasses the brand’s incredible attention to detail and gem-setting savoir-faire. The first is a more simple, possibly even everyday, piece with a brand new bracelet, touted to fit like a second skin. The other two share a case and dial covered in diamonds, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase stuns with its diamond-studded designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Starwheel
After a two-decade hiatus, Audemars Piguet has revived the wandering-hours complication with the Code 11:59 Starwheel. The latest addition to the collection installs the distinctive complication in the Code 11:59, a model initially criticised but now often praised, and combines it with a blue aventurine dial that’s matched with a two-tone, black ceramic and white gold case. Initial thoughts The reintroduction of the Starwheel in the Code 11:59 is an interesting proposition that is well timed. It is interesting because it combines the modern proportions and style of the Code 11.59 case with a once-neglected complication. In that sense, the watch embodies a key familiar direction in contemporary watchmaking: reinterpreting of a vintage classic for today. Even though the formula is familiar, the new Starwheel is different enough that it will no doubt be polarising. The relatively large case diameter of 41 mm compared to the compact 1990s models means the new model will probably not appeal to fans of the original, but it will surely bring a new audience to the complication (and perhaps enlarge the pool of clients for the Code 11.59). And it is well timed because Starwheel watches from the 1990s enjoyed a rise in popularity alongside the broader jump in interest in watches of all sorts during the last two years. So the brand’s revival of the Starwheel reflects its awareness of today’s tastes. It also reveals that AP is paying attention to the comings and goings on th...
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Grand Seiko vs A. Lange & Söhne Dials | Watchfinder & Co.
Revolution
Talking with Bertrand Savary about the Angelus x Revolution Chronodate ‘Angels’ Share’
On a recent trip to Château Angelus, a Premier Grand Cru Classe A vineyard in Saint-Émilion, France, Wei met with Bertrand Savary, CEO of Angelus to talk about our first collaboration with the brand. The scenic vistas surrounding the château were the perfect location to first discover our salmon dial Chronodate, which is aptly named […]
Revolution
Up Close with the Angelus x Revolution Chronodate ‘Angels’ Share’
We are proud to present our first collaboration with Angelus, a salmon grené dial version of the sublime Chronodate, which we are calling ‘Angels’ Share’. The Chronodate is a lesson in balanced design, with an angular titanium case and a multi-textured, soft grené finish to the dial. The mesmerising Angelus x Revolution Chronodate ‘Angels’ Share’ […]
Revolution
Talking with Guillaume Laidet about the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster ‘No Barracuda’
On a trip to Paris, Wei met with Guillaume Laidet, the architect of recently revived vintage darling, Nivada Grenchen to talk about our first collaboration – a fully black Depthmaster with unique dial markers that resemble the video game character Pac-Man. The original Depthmaster was incredibly well made and depth-rated to 1,000m and our watch […]
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph “JPS”
Having just announced a limited edition with a gold case and semiprecious stone dial, TAG Heuer has debuted another all-gold Carrera, the Carrera Chronograph “JPS”. It features an 18k yellow gold case matched with a black-and-gold dial inspired by the 1158 CHN chronograph of the 1970s, a colour combination better known as the “JPS”. That’s is short for John Player Special, a cigarette brand that sponsored the Lotus Formula 1 team in the 1970s. Its brand colours were black and gold, which was also the paintwork for the Lotus race cars. That led to the “JPS” label for the Rolex Daytona in the same colours, though the nickname has since been applied to sports chronographs in the same livery. Initial thoughts The Carrera “JPS” is essentially the same model that’s usually seen in steel, but now given a luxe makeover with a gold case and “JPS” dial. In typical Carrera style it opts for a two-counter look with a “ghost” seconds at six, resulting in a vintage vibe although the case is a very modern and slightly chunky 42 mm in diameter. But the new Carrera really is all about the dial, which is no doubt meant to evoke what is now a million-dollar watch. While the market for vintage Daytonas has plateaued or even declined since its peak four years ago, the Daytona “JPS” has continued to sell for large sums, with a handful crossing the million-dollar mark over the past year. Besides the rarity of the model, the value also reflects the intrinsic appe...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
Having covered highlights from the independent watchmakers at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on November 28 and 29 – an appropriate theme given that the three most valuable lots according to the estimates are complicated watches from Patek Philippe. In this roundup, we look at nine lots that stand out. Some like the ref. 5207P with the uncommon mahogany guilloche dial are six-figure, headline lots, while others are value propositions that might slip under the radar but worth noting, like the Cartier Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue for sale can be accessed here. The ref. 5207P with a brown guilloche dial and matching obsidian inlays in the case and slide Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “Buenos Aires” Here, we have the Lange 1 Time Zone that was first introduced in 2005. With the trademark Lange 1 dial layout and oversized date, the Time Zone maintains the recognisable Lange 1 style with its “Golden Proportions” despite being able to do much more than a standard Lange 1. This particular variant came about when Buenos Aires retailer Simonetta Orsini requested a limited edition for Argentina. The cities disc thus has Buenos Aires (“B. AIRES”) to indicate UTC-03:00, instead of Rio de Janeiro as is the norm for the model. But more significant for the Lange enthusiast is the silver dial with blue hands and ma...
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New UNIMATIC Field Watches Italian Made - Modello Due - Automatic Sterile Dials - U2-F and U2-FN
Deployant
New: RGM Model 25 Yellowstone National Park
RGM celebrates Yellowstone National Park’s 150th Anniversary (1872-2022) with a new Model 25 with cloisonne enamelo dial.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Jewelled Ref. 5271 with Sapphires or Rubies
Patek Philippe has introduced two variants of its classic paired complication: the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5271/11P and Ref. 5271/12P are set with blue sapphires and rubies respectively, with each having a graduated finish dial in a matching colour. Both new references retain the look and feel of the ref. 5270 but certainly pack a punch with their flamboyant jewelled cases. The first serially-produced gem-set variants of the reference in 11 years, the new pair joins the existing diamond-set ref. 5271P as the bling versions of Patek Philippe’s archetypal complication. Initial thoughts Much of the excitement over new releases from Patek Philippe tend to be centred on its sports watches nowadays but that’s not all that the brand has been doing. At Watches & Wonders in March, the brand launched a new version of the longstanding ref. 5270 that featured a smoked green dial that was widely applauded (no doubt in part due to the current popularity of the colour). But the recent launches left me wondering, what else can Patek Philippe do to up its game beyond its mastery of complications? Well, now we have an answer. In terms of the design, the new ref. 5271s retain the classic layout and distinctive feel of the perpetual calendar chronographs that the brand is known for, but with a few adjustments to the dial that give it a more contemporary feel. And then the coloured gemstones transform a watch that is ordinarily sedate into something over the top. While gem-se...
Revolution
Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Tri-compax Chronograph
Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This black dial, three-counter chronograph is powered by the historically significant, NOS Lemania 1874 movement, which has been overhauled, tested and beautifully finished […]
Revolution
Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Bi-compax Chronograph
Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This silver dial, two-counter chronograph is powered by the historically significant, NOS Lemania 1874 movement, which has been overhauled, tested and beautifully finished […]
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: The Ultra-Rare Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 – Reprise
As most folks who follow Patek Philippe are aware, the brand has long been in the habit of making unique watches for special customers, including in recent times entertainment luminaries such as Eric Clapton and Michael Ovitz. It was not until 2015, however, that Patek Philippe publicly issued a number of small editions of previously discontinued references, each in previously unmade metal/dial combinations. This Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 is one of those ultra-rare birds. And GaryG wonders if it might bring yellow gold back into fashion single-handedly.
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Bright candy dials meet carbon fibre in the new DOXA SUB 300 Carbon range
Time+Tide
Norqain speaks our language with new bronze and green Adventure Sport 42mm
I may not be an Aussie myself, but green and gold tones definitely get the T+T HQ going. Norqain recently moved upmarket with their Wild One collection, but that does not mean they are abandoning their positioning at lower price points as well. The new Norqain Adventure Sport 42mm Bronze Khaki Dial is a handsome … ContinuedThe post Norqain speaks our language with new bronze and green Adventure Sport 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case
Grand Seiko is known for their colorful and textured dials born from natural muses. The Japanese philosophy of translating their surrounding nature into their craft has long distinguished their creations but, in regard to the Grand Seiko catalogue, has resulted in an ample menu of dial flavours to choose from. For the watch geek looking … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Boldr Introduces the Venture Singularity in Ultra-Black
Founded by a group of watch enthusiasts from Singapore and Malaysia, Boldr Supply Co. first got off the ground on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter like many of its peers. Now best known for its affordable sports watches, the brand’s latest has a titanium case containing Seiko movement, but the highlight is something else, or more specifically, nothing else. The Venture Singularity has a dial of infinite blackness thanks to a coating of Musou Black, which absorbs 99.4% of incident light. Made by a Japanese company, Musou Black is similar to better known Vantablack in being blacker than black. Initial thoughts Boldr nails it again with another affordable and fun watch, but the Singularity stands out for its value proposition, one that’s arguably better than Boldr’s other offerings. As watches with ultra-black dial go, this has little competition – comparable watches usually cost much, much more. Boldr isn’t the first microbrand offering such a dial at a modest price but the Singularity is an unusually complete package with its lightweight titanium case and bracelet, along with a useful 200 m water resistance. Granted, the Singularity still looks and feels like it price aside from the dial, but it is something novel amongst watches that are very accessible. Priced at US$445, the Singularity unsurprisingly sold out quickly when the first batch went on sale. But it’s not a limited edition and pre-orders for the second batch are now open with delivery starting in...
WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review
Pros: Bold rugged designContrasting golden bronze case with the deep blue dial and bezelNumerous strap options as standard to interchange the look Cons: The Nato strap makes it wear higher on the wrist, as not as flush as we would likeIt’s a larger watch so not for the faint of wrist Date wheel in white, not blue to blend in with the dial Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Rado is one of those brands that does fly a little under the radar, in this writer’s opinion. They have always had good watches, and when it comes to different design materials, like ceramic, they’re up there with the best. I bought my wife a white Rado True Thinline in full ceramic about ten years ago, and it still looks as new as the day I bought it. She loves it and wears it all the time, and is quartz and keeps perfect time (until the battery goes dead, that is!) Which makes me think, why then do guys not think about Rado as they do other mainstream Swiss brands? Maybe it’s because they don’t put giant amounts into marketing with celebrities. Or maybe we’re all too caught up on the hype watches to look elsewhere? In any case, I’ve had the good fortune to try on a few Captain Cook variants this year, and I think Rado is a winner with this model line. A Watch Line Named After An Adventurer For those that don’t know, the Captain Cook line goes back to 1962 and was aimed at doctors, engineers, athletes, deep sea di...
Deployant
New: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph in pink gold
Vacheron Constantin releases a new Overseas Chronograph in 5N pink gold version with the collection's iconic blue-lacquered dial.
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