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30 Best Mechanical Watches Under $500 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 6, 2023

30 Best Mechanical Watches Under $500

As new enthusiasts dip their toes in the waters of the watch world, it’s easy for them to become mired in watch-specific terminology that, while second nature to seasoned nerds, can prove challenging for anyone less experienced. Understanding the specific nature of the type of movement powering a watch is an excellent example of an area in which a little bit of research goes a long way in elevating your knowledge base and helping you to make an informed purchasing decision. Terms like quartz, mechanical, automatic, manual, and hand-winding are essential basic knowledge for anyone looking to bring their understanding of watches to the next level or purchase a new piece. In this article, we’ll take a look at some of the most prominent types of mechanical movement types on the market. First, we’ll create a high-level primer on how the most popular types of watch movements operate before digging into a list of some of the best options on the more attainable end of the spectrum for each respective movement type. To begin, let’s tackle the term “mechanical” as it relates to watches. In the modern watch world, the vast majority of watches fall into two major subsets. The first is quartz, which utilizes power from an installed battery to power a small circuit that measures timekeeping by way of an oscillating quartz crystal, shaped like a tiny tuning fork, which vibrates at exactly 32,768 per second, allowing for an impressively high level of accuracy. Quartz calibe...

Blancpain Introduces Fifty Fathoms “70th Anniversary Act 1” SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Fifty Fathoms “70th Jan 4, 2023

Blancpain Introduces Fifty Fathoms “70th Anniversary Act 1”

Twenty twenty-three marks the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s landmark dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms. Introduced in 1953, the diver was revived in 2003. Kicking off the commemorative editions is the Fifty Fathoms “70th Anniversary Act 1”, the first instalment in a year’s worth of anniversary models. Like the current model, the “Act 1” is inspired by the vintage model, but sports dimensions patterned after the original from seven decades ago, with a reduced case diameter of just over 42 mm. Initial thoughts  The familiar form of the modern dive watch is due in part to the Fifty Fathoms – whether that or the Rolex Submariner was launched first is an endless debate – so it is unsurprising that Blancpain’s current catalogue includes a vast array of Fifty Fathoms-inspired timepieces. Thankfully, Blancpain has done something to cater to watch enthusiasts with the anniversary model that has a smaller diameter, perhaps in response to criticism that the closest equivalent in the line-up is 45 mm wide (Blancpain does offer dive watches with smaller cases, but they are either limited editions or the Bathyscaphe). Even though the anniversary watch is broadly similar to the standard Fifty Fathoms in terms of design, it has been refined and arguably improved, especially on the dial. Blancpain skipped the easy route of copying the earlier model and scaling it down. Instead the designers commendably captured the spirit of the original with the vintage typography un...

Interview: Jeremy Lim of Cortina Watch on the Family Business and Longevity SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 5057 made Dec 28, 2022

Interview: Jeremy Lim of Cortina Watch on the Family Business and Longevity

With 2022 revenue of S$716.9 million (equivalent to US$532 million), Cortina Watch is one of the world’s biggest watch retailers. It was founded in 1972 as a single store but has grown into a regional giant with stores across Southeast Asia as well as outposts in Taiwan and Australia. Cortina marked its 50th anniversary this year with a slew of limited editions that reflect its importance, including the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057 made specifically for it. Though publicly listed, the company remains controlled by the founding Lim family, with the third generation having recently joined the business. A crucial member of management is Jeremy Lim, the younger son of Cortina founder Anthony Lim. Jeremy helms the business alongside his siblings Raymond and Sharon. I spoke with Jeremy recently to uncover the factors behind the longevity and success of Cortina. Three generations of the Lim family, with Jeremy Lim second from left. Image – Cortina Watch SJX: When Cortina was founded 50 years ago by your father, it was one of many watch stores in Singapore. But now Cortina is one of the few left, in fact it’s one of the biggest in the region. What is the secret to the longevity and success? Jeremy Lim (JL): We were lucky that we had a lot of help from the family when my dad started the business with my mom. [My brother] Raymond started early in the business, then my sister got interested in the business as well, and subsequently I was reeled in. The old school method o...

Best of 2022: Establishment Favourites SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref Dec 23, 2022

Best of 2022: Establishment Favourites

Having covered the year’s best from independent watchmaking, we now turn to the big names (but leaving out the value buys below US$5,000 that we cover in a subsequent story). The notable launches from establishment marques were predominantly evolutionary, either new-and-improved versions of existing models or vintage remakes. Nothing was a landmark achievement – except for the monumental Rolex Deepsea Challenge that is less of a watch than a statement of technical prowess. While not strikingly novel, many of the year’s best watches are executed very, very well. One of the best is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref. 16202. Practically unchanged from the 1972 original in terms of design, it doesn’t do anything new in terms of design. The the new “Jumbo” nonetheless is a superior watch, mainly thanks to a brand-new movement as well as subtle improvements to the case. As we detailed in our in-depth review, the “Jumbo” retains the look of the original, right down to the colour of the dial, which is reproduced with PVD treatment. But it is the new cal. 7121 that’s the star. Amongst the things, it boasts an efficient, bi-directional winding system, as well as a higher beat rate for the balance wheel, resulting in more stable timekeeping. But perhaps most important is the addition of a quick-set date. While getting this watch at the retail price is a Sisyphean task, it is one of the year’s top watches simply because it makes a classic much better....

Watches with Tachymeters: How They Work and Our 15 Top Tachymeter Watc Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 15, 2022

Watches with Tachymeters: How They Work and Our 15 Top Tachymeter Watc

It's a common refrain in the watch collector community that chronographs are one of the most popular complications while at the same time being one of the least practical in day-to-day life. Many of the most famous chronograph watches are also equipped with tachymeter scales, and while fans of these watches mostly agree that they look very cool, few of them have ever used the scale with the stopwatch function, and many wouldn't really know how. Nevertheless, the tachymeter on a watch was invented for a utilitarian, practical purpose once upon a time and it's worth briefly exploring those origins and exploring those capabilities. Essentially, a tachymeter (also called a tachometer) is a numerical scale on a watch’s dial or bezel that is used in conjunction with a chronograph seconds hand to measure an object’s speed over a predetermined distance. It is often used to determine miles or kilometers per hour and is thus a common feature of chronograph watches whose design is inspired by automobile racing; we'll showcase several icons of that category in our list below. Unlike divers’ watch bezels, which should rotate in one direction to set dive times, or other types of bezel scales used for calculations and conversions, like the circular slide rule on Breitling’s Navitimer, most of which are bidirectional, a tachymeter scale bezel should be fixed. The numerical scale typically starts around the 6- or 7-second marker on the minute track, and is usually indicated in ...

Breguet Introduces the Classique 9075 “Chinese New Year” SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Dec 14, 2022

Breguet Introduces the Classique 9075 “Chinese New Year”

Continuing its annual tradition of commemorative editions for the Chinese Lunar Year, Breguet introduces the Classique 9075 “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of the Water Rabbit set to start in January 2023. While last year’s “Tiger” edition was a men’s watch with a hand-engraved dial, this year’s watch is artisanal yet whimsical in a manner that is atypical for the typically conservative brand. Initial thoughts It is always lovely to see a timepiece that makes you smile, especially from a brand that is usually formal. While Breguet debuts special editions regularly, it often utilises guilloche for the dials, as is the brand’s trademark. So the playful dial on the Classique 9075 is refreshing. The prancing-rabbit motif manages to be whimsical without being bold and loud, and still retains the elegance and grace expected of Breguet. And of course the grand feu enamel dial is executed with intricate detail and craftsmanship. The Classique 9075, however, is a women’s watch, not because of the design but the compact case diameter of 33.5 mm as well as the diamonds on the bezel and lugs. A masculine version – scaled up and sans diamonds – would certainly have appeal for male enthusiasts. At CHF43,000, the Classique 9075 is priced in the same ballpark as comparable models in the regular production collection, making it a compelling alternative to the average Breguet. But it will only be an alternative for very few as the watch is limited to o...

HANDS-ON: The rose-gold Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is sleek, sculptural and downright sexy Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Dec 12, 2022

HANDS-ON: The rose-gold Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is sleek, sculptural and downright sexy

We all know the Bulgari Octo Finissimo series as some of the most in-demand timepieces on the market today. You’ll find them peeking out of the well-turned cuffs of A-listers the world over. They’re sleek, sculptural, and let’s face it, downright sexy, and this one’s no exception. This is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The rose-gold Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is sleek, sculptural and downright sexy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm we are all pining for Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm we Dec 10, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm we are all pining for

There’s definitely not a shortage of stainless-steel sports watches in the marketplace. It’s a truly saturated category due to the high demand, so if you’re going to draw attention away from the usual suspects then the design you bring to market has to be distinct and fresh. Fortunately, that is exactly what the Chopard Alpine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm we are all pining for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Three monster Kickstarter success stories that exploded into life Time+Tide
Dec 8, 2022

Three monster Kickstarter success stories that exploded into life

In the realm of microbrand watches, Kickstarter has long been a preferred platform for launching new models, and even entirely new brands. It can be a sort of marketing test-bed for a fledgling brand, or a lower-risk method of funding production runs for more established ones. It’s pretty simple, really. If no one’s interested in … ContinuedThe post Three monster Kickstarter success stories that exploded into life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph offers retro vibes with grab-and-go convenience Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph Dec 7, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph offers retro vibes with grab-and-go convenience

Seiko has a long history in chronographs, including their first manually wound model from 1964, and the iconic 6139 – the first automatic chrono to hit the market in 1969. That was also the year of the world’s first quartz watch, the Seiko Astron. Naturally, the brands have therefore had a lot of experience producing … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph offers retro vibes with grab-and-go convenience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: The Whys and Wherefores of Rolex Certified Pre-Owned SJX Watches
Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Having just Dec 2, 2022

Editorial: The Whys and Wherefores of Rolex Certified Pre-Owned

Having just announced the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned programme, the Geneva watchmaking giant has in the headlines everywhere. The programme is certainly a significant development, though it will probably play out in a more nuanced manner than predicted in most media. To recap, Rolex Certified Pre-Owned is open to all and any of the brand’s retailers on a voluntary basis. It allows a retailer to sell pre-owned Rolex watches – that have to be at least three years old – but only after they have gone through an official Rolex service centre. Importantly, retailers will have to source their own pre-owned inventory, pay Rolex for servicing, and are free to set prices on their pre-owned offerings. Such certified pre-owned (CPO) watches will be accompanied by a two-year guarantee as well as a Rolex Certified Pre-Owned guarantee card (in addition to the original guarantee card and accessories if available). The first to embark on the CPO programme is the biggest Rolex retailer in Europe, Bucherer, which already has CPO watches on sale. Other retailers will be able to do the same from spring 2023 should they choose to do so. Crucially, Rolex CPO has nothing to do with the grey market, which is the market for brand-new watches sold via non-authorised channels. It is where brand-new Rolex watches sold at a premium to retail are transacted. On the other hand, Rolex CPO all about pre-owned watches that are at least three years old. And Rolex knows exactly when a watch is three ye...

Rolex launch certified pre-owned program, but we are left with more questions than answers Time+Tide
Richard Mille do … ContinuedThe post Dec 1, 2022

Rolex launch certified pre-owned program, but we are left with more questions than answers

The pre-owned market for watches has become bigger and bigger each year – so much so that resale giants like eBay have doubled down and entered the mix, while a company like WatchBox can afford to sign Michael Jordan (yep, the basketball GOAT) as an ambassador. Recently, we have seen brands like Richard Mille do … ContinuedThe post Rolex launch certified pre-owned program, but we are left with more questions than answers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Insight: Fine Watchmaking Market Map in 2022 SJX Watches
Nov 29, 2022

Insight: Fine Watchmaking Market Map in 2022

For almost as long as I’ve been interested in watches, I’ve tried to find an objective way to visualise the stratification of the various luxury watch brands. I’m as fascinated by the process of watchmaking as much as the products themselves, and I wanted to find a way to differentiate brands based on the production techniques they employ, yet do so objectively. I believe you can tell a lot about a brand’s values and capabilities by looking at their methods, but it can be difficult to penetrate the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing to see what’s really going on behind the curtain. An objective measure: watchmaker-hours per watch In my review of the Saxonia Thin last year, I used the metric “watches per watchmaker” to illustrate the economics of A. Lange & Söhne. While this is not a perfect metric, it is simple and quantitative, and crucially, it can often be derived from publicly available information. Taking this analysis one step further, I added Swiss, German, and Japanese national statistics for working hours to calculate the maximum possible number of watchmaker-hours per watch for more than 50 luxury watch brands. The start of the map, the Saxonia Thin How to interpret this metric The watchmaker-hours metric is not the number of hours that a watchmaker spends on every watch. Rather, it’s the theoretical maximum number of hours that a brand’s watchmakers could possibly spend with each watch. This workrate can be viewed as a simple proxy fo...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph “JPS” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Nov 23, 2022

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph “JPS”

Having just announced a limited edition with a gold case and semiprecious stone dial, TAG Heuer has debuted another all-gold Carrera, the Carrera Chronograph “JPS”. It features an 18k yellow gold case matched with a black-and-gold dial inspired by the 1158 CHN chronograph of the 1970s, a colour combination better known as the “JPS”. That’s is short for John Player Special, a cigarette brand that sponsored the Lotus Formula 1 team in the 1970s. Its brand colours were black and gold, which was also the paintwork for the Lotus race cars. That led to the “JPS” label for the Rolex Daytona in the same colours, though the nickname has since been applied to sports chronographs in the same livery. Initial thoughts The Carrera “JPS” is essentially the same model that’s usually seen in steel, but now given a luxe makeover with a gold case and “JPS” dial. In typical Carrera style it opts for a two-counter look with a “ghost” seconds at six, resulting in a vintage vibe although the case is a very modern and slightly chunky 42 mm in diameter. But the new Carrera really is all about the dial, which is no doubt meant to evoke what is now a million-dollar watch. While the market for vintage Daytonas has plateaued or even declined since its peak four years ago, the Daytona “JPS” has continued to sell for large sums, with a handful crossing the million-dollar mark over the past year. Besides the rarity of the model, the value also reflects the intrinsic appe...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Varon Chiri Blazer is a dressy everyday watch for a remarkable price Time+Tide
Nov 14, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Varon Chiri Blazer is a dressy everyday watch for a remarkable price

It’s no secret that microbrands can often provide incredible watches for the money, but that doesn’t mean that they can get away with putting no effort in. Slapping together a list of specifications at a low price point might seem like the key to Kickstarter success, but it takes a lot of planning, intuition, and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Varon Chiri Blazer is a dressy everyday watch for a remarkable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 12, 2022

Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022

A much-anticipated series of auctions just concluded in Geneva, the first sale season to take place after financial markets started to crack in mid 2022. All the major auction houses – Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s – staged sales in the Swiss city, and almost everyone who was anyone turned up (or took part by phone or online). The season’s top performer by the numbers was Christie’s, which sold CHF55.5 million of watches, fees included, largely thanks to the collection of former Ferrari Formula 1 chief Jean Todt. It displaced the traditional number one, Phillips, which sold CHF45.0 million. The Phillips auction at La Reserve. Image – Phillips A few takeaways are immediately apparent in the results. One was widely expected: “hype” watches have come off their highs, often by a third or more. Including obvious candidates like sports watches, namely the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Overseas, but also brands that enjoyed massive run-ups in value during the pandemic like F.P. Journe. Values are still up from the pre-pandemic lows, but if prices overcorrected on the way up, then it is likely they will do so on the way down. Sotheby’s, for instance, had several dozen examples of various Nautilus and Royal Oak models in its sale, mostly with estimates close to peak values from late 2021. As a result, a third of the watches went unsold. The dip in values was also evident with F.P. Journe, certainly not a “hype” brand but one that enjoy a stellar run during ...

HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual Time+Tide
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Nov 8, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual

Collaborative limited editions are nothing new to the industry. It would seem over the last few years we see one debut every month, and the trend is still going strong. But with so many hitting the market, it is more important than ever for all parties involved to realise something that is truly fresh that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Nov 1, 2022

Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review

Pros: Bold rugged designContrasting golden bronze case with the deep blue dial and bezelNumerous strap options as standard to interchange the look  Cons: The Nato strap makes it wear higher on the wrist, as not as flush as we would likeIt’s a larger watch so not for the faint of wrist Date wheel in white, not blue to blend in with the dial Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Rado is one of those brands that does fly a little under the radar, in this writer’s opinion. They have always had good watches, and when it comes to different design materials, like ceramic, they’re up there with the best. I bought my wife a white Rado True Thinline in full ceramic about ten years ago, and it still looks as new as the day I bought it. She loves it and wears it all the time, and is quartz and keeps perfect time (until the battery goes dead, that is!) Which makes me think, why then do guys not think about Rado as they do other mainstream Swiss brands? Maybe it’s because they don’t put giant amounts into marketing with celebrities. Or maybe we’re all too caught up on the hype watches to look elsewhere? In any case, I’ve had the good fortune to try on a few Captain Cook variants this year, and I think Rado is a winner with this model line.   A Watch Line Named After An Adventurer For those that don’t know, the Captain Cook line goes back to 1962 and was aimed at doctors, engineers, athletes, deep sea di...

Business News: Watches & Wonders Becomes More Accessible SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 30, 2022

Business News: Watches & Wonders Becomes More Accessible

In a long anticipated move, the organisers of Watches & Wonders – now the world’s most important luxury-watch fair – have just revealed the 2023 exhibition will be open to the public on its final two days. The event takes place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023, so the public days will be on the first two days of April. Simultaneously, the organisers also debuted the Watches & Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF). According to the announcement, the decision to create the foundation was taken by Rolex, Richemont, and Patek Philippe. Both the public days and WWGF are evidence that the Geneva giants, Rolex and Patek Philippe, now have a lead role in the city’s major watch fair. Historically that position was occupied by Richemont, the luxury group that owns a stable of brands ranging from Cartier to IWC. New titles for Messrs Dufour and Perrin The WWGF will “organise… watch and jewellery exhibitions, in Geneva and beyond… and define the major strategic areas of this ambitious project.” Most notable is the fact the the WWGF will be chaired by Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, while its deputy chairman is Emmanuel Perrin, head of Richemont’s watch division. Though unstated, it is implied that the WWGF succeed the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), which was long the organiser of SIHH and also of this year’s W&W;. Though technically independent, the FHH was regarded by the industry as being dominated by Richemont. Anyone can now walk the ha...

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina PAM01501 “Kids Horizon” SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Oct 24, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina PAM01501 “Kids Horizon”

Historically a maker of military dive watches, Panerai has since evolved into a maker of distinctively-styled sports watches encompassing complications and precious metal cases. The watchmaker has just revealed an all-gold version of its trademark dive watch as a unique piece conceived for a good cause and a special occasion, the Luminor Marina Automatic PAM01501. Engraved to indicate it’s a one-off creation, something Panerai rarely does, the PAM01501 will go under the hammer during the upcoming charity gala dinner for Kidz Horizon Appeal, a Singapore-based charity that funds medical treatment for children from disadvantaged backgrounds, which will take place on October 29, 2022. The PAM01501 is engraved with “1/1” on the back Initial thoughts The PAM01501 is a metallic olive green – certainly a familiar colour. But keep in mind Panerai was one of the first brand to utilise green as a dial colour, most famously for the Submersible Bronzo a decade ago. This happened well before the current fad for green dials, so Panerai is sticking to historical precedent rather than jumping on the bandwagon. In fact, the green dial and rose gold case brings to mind the original Bronzo, which had a similar palette (before it developed a patina). But the crucial point is that the PAM01501 distinguishes itself by being a unique piece, and one for a good cause no less. For the kids Founded in 2004, Kidz Horizon Appeal (KHA) is a Singapore charity that supports children with chroni...

Up Close: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Second-Generation (Refs. 142.025 and 142.031) SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 24, 2022

Up Close: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Second-Generation (Refs. 142.025 and 142.031)

A certainty after the Zeitwerk Date of 2019 and last year’s Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, the second-generation A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is finally here. As expected, the new Zeitwerk is a gentle evolution from the original in terms of design, but a substantial step forward in technical terms. Known as the ref. 142.025 in platinum and ref. 142.031 in pink gold, the new Zeitwerk is powered by the same revamped movement L043 movement found in the Date and Lumen. As a result, it has all of same upgrades, namely a thinner movement that boasts a quickset corrector for the hours as well as a 72-hour power reserve. The new Zeitwerk in pink gold And the second-generation L043.6 Initial thoughts In a technical sense, the new Zeitwerk is a superior watch, as it should be, coming 13 years after the original. Aesthetically, it remains largely unchanged save for a few nips and tucks, leaving the new model instantly recognisable as a Zeitwerk. In fact, most would be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two generations from across a room. The second generation (left) and its predecessor In the metal the new Zeitwerk looks and feels very much like the original upon initial examination. But the differences quickly become obvious, even though some, like the enlarged seconds, are subtle enough they are difficult to pinpoint. Other tweaks are easier to spot, like the red marking on the power reserve scale. Personally I’m not a fan of the red accent since it creates a peculiar f...

Visiting Mühle Glashütte, the Last Family-Owned Watch Manufacture in the Heart of German Watchmaking Revolution
Mühle Glashütte Oct 23, 2022

Visiting Mühle Glashütte, the Last Family-Owned Watch Manufacture in the Heart of German Watchmaking

Revolution USA Editor-in-Chief Bhanu Chopra sits down with Christian Fischer, Marketing Manager of Mühle Glashütte, to talk about the last 20 years of the brand’s most iconic tool watch, the S.A.R. Rescue-Timer. Mühle Glashütte is the only remaining family-owned watch manufacture in the German town of Glashütte and is currently managed by the sixth generation […]

VIDEO: The Speake-Marin One & Two Openworked Tourbillons Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Oct 20, 2022

VIDEO: The Speake-Marin One & Two Openworked Tourbillons

Homogenous design. In a marketplace where it seems consumers have tunnel vision towards particular design segments, watch manufacturers have often bent to the trend of the moment rather than forge their own path. While many watch geeks love innovation and fresh aesthetics, brands do not always see the incentive from the broader marketplace. Speake-Marin, however, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Speake-Marin One & Two Openworked Tourbillons appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director at TAG Heuer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Oct 20, 2022

Interview: Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director at TAG Heuer

A Briton who has been the Heritage Director at TAG Heuer since March 2021, Nicholas Biebuyck is in charge of the brand’s museum and archives. Like his peers at other brands, Mr Biebuyck’s role goes beyond historical papers and vintage watches. He participates in product development and marketing, while being a brand ambassador, especially in bringing the brand to enthusiasts and collectors. But Mr Biebuyck also experienced a swathe of the watch industry prior to his role at TAG Heuer. He was previously a watch specialist at Bonhams and then Christie’s before joining Blackbird Watch Manual, a specialist magazine based in Hong Kong. Mr Biebuyck, who now lives in Switzerland with his family, also gained an insight into the art of managing clients with earlier stints as a “Genius” in an Apple Store and then marketing private-jet charters in Africa. The hand-finished movement in the one-off Monaco Only Watch 2021, a hint of where TAG Heuer might be headed And so Mr Biebuyck was wearing several hats when he was in Singapore recently during the Formula 1 Grand Prix weekend, when TAG Heuer staged an exhibition dedicated to its history in motorsports. We got the opportunity to quiz him on several topics, including where TAG Heuer is headed and how the brand balances its glamorous motorsports history with its avant-garde innovation. And we also gain his thoughts on the vintage Heuer market, especially after the high watermark of the Heuer thematic auction in 2017. SJX: ...

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Oct 14, 2022

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review

The Tissot Telemeter 1938, which joined the Swiss brand's vintage-influenced Heritage collection in summer 2022, has garnered enthusiasts' attention with its charmingly retro design, optimized chronograph movement, and enticing price-to-value ratio. We had a chance to go hands-on with both versions of the Tissot Telemeter 1938; read on for the results from our in-depth review. Overview and History By just about any historical standard, 1938 was generally a pretty dark year, marked by the lingering economic woes of the Great Depression, the violence of Kristallnacht, and the slow march to war in Europe, with Germany annexing Austria and partitioning Czechoslovakia in the ill-fated Munich pact. One of the few areas in which forward-thinking creativity and energetic optimism still prevailed in that pre-war era was the world of art and design, which was still showing the influence of the Art Deco movement that had taken root in the 1920s. Wristwatches, which had largely supplanted pocket watches as the go-to portable timekeepers for both civilian and military use, displayed this enduring design ethos while also often incorporating a useful array of functions geared toward the timing of the era’s popular sporting events, many of which involved racing - on horseback, in automobiles, and on skis. Tissot, founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura, was one of the watchmakers that specialized in making these sport-timing instruments. One of the company’s earliest forays as an offic...

Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Oct 13, 2022

Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel

Inspired by a long-lost wristwatch saying to 1812 that might have been the first-ever wristwatch, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s signature watch for ladies. Quirky in form but elegant, the model is available in numerous iterations, but the latest is unusually stark but no less graceful: the Reine de Naples 8918 with a glossy black enamel dial. Like the rest of the line, the new 8918 has its roots in the 19th century. Invented as jewellery that happened to tell the time, wristwatches of the period were fashionable accessories. One of the earliest known examples was an egg-shaped bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, the younger sister of Napoleon and the Queen of Naples – reine de Naples in French. Initial thoughts Perhaps one of the most distinctive ladies’ watches on the market today, the Reine de Naples gets less attention than it deserves for a variety of reasons, including Breguet’s restrained marketing and the fact that brands like Cartier have more famous form watches. But the history and visual appeal of the Reine de Naples, as well as Breguet’s overall quality, makes it noteworthy. The 8918 in black enamel preserves the essence of the model, but it instantly stands out for its high-contrast, monochromatic palette. But it’s not merely a pretty face, for the execution is also appealing since it’s fired enamel in black, an uncommon colour for the material. Grand feu enamel dials are relatively uncommon in ladies’ watches, so B...