Deployant
New: Hanhart returns their 417 ES 1954 to the original
Hanhart goes back to the roots of the most famous chronograph b re-launching the new 417 ES 1954 in the original case size of 39mm.
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Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Time+Tide Club swings by Vacheron
Hello everyone - Borna here! Thank you to Zach for letting me hijack this portion of the FWD. Last night, through the joint efforts of the Time+Tide Club and the Vacheron Constantin boutique in Melbourne, two dozen of our club members squeezed into the cosy store. Chit-chat was had before a presentation by Warren Ho, boutique … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Time+Tide Club swings by Vacheron appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Is This The Most Bad-Ass G-Shock Ever?
What goes into the $1,700 G-Shock 'Virtual Armor'?
Hodinkee
Second Opinions: A Love Letter To The Unfairly Maligned Helium Escape Valve
In praise of a time-honored feature that lets dive watches pass a little gas.
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Beat Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon – Reprise
In GaryG's view, every successful independent watchmaker has elements of a “house style” that may attract some buyers and put off others, but nonetheless set them apart. And, at the highest level, this style goes beyond “branding” to become an expression of the personality and artistic vision of the creator. Beat Haldimann and his small team distinguish themselves by focusing on technical virtuosity of the highest order as typified by the Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon.
Deployant
Match made in heaven: Six brilliant watch collaboration between watchmakers, manufacturers, craftsmen or designers
When people come together, brilliant things happen. The same goes for watches, especially watch collaborations between incredible people in their field.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Black Ceramic Royal Oak 34 mm “Rainbow”
Having devised the granular Frosted Gold finish that’s now found on several Royal Oak models, Italian jewellery designer Carolina Bucci has teamed up once again with Audemars Piguet, but on a collaboration that goes in an entirely different direction. This time it’s all about contemporary materials and aesthetics with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Carolina Bucci Limited Edition 34 mm in black ceramic with an iridescent, laser-engraved sapphire dial and a generous dose of pink gold accents. Initial thoughts Though the Royal Oak has an unmistakable identity, Ms Bucci has proven that the iconic octagonal design can be a canvas for something different. Her latest creation proves that remains true. Although this is merely a new dial, the execution is novel enough to be interesting. The dial isn’t traditional in either technique or materials – the dial is ultra-modern in fact – yet still preserves the classic Royal Oak aesthetic with a chequerboard pattern that evokes its signature tapisserie guilloche. Pairing the iridescent dial with the muted black ceramic case makes the watch even more striking, resulting in an eye-catching aesthetic despite the moderate case of just 34 mm. Still, its modernity in both style and techniques means it could be criticised as a gimmick. But that is too harsh. It’s less timeless than a traditional Royal Oak, but still a timeless design. And it is definitely chic. The hands and applied markers are pink gold, as are the nuts on the bezel R...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Reimagines the Monaco Dark Lord
On the opening day of the 2022 Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer takes the covers off the Heuer Monaco Special Edition, which takes its cues from the Monaco ref. 74033N, the all-black model from the 1970s nicknamed the “Dark Lord”. While it might look like a reissue at a glance, the new Monaco ticks all the right boxes in terms of vintage-inspired design without being a remake. Initial thoughts While TAG Heuer frequently turned to vintage remakes in recent years, the brand has now pivoted towards contemporary designs and concepts, a move exemplified by the Carbon Monaco and Carrera Plasma. The new Monaco Special Edition continues that – but at an affordable price point. The original “Dark Lord” is an attractive watch – the all-black look goes well with the square case and 1970s feel – and so the new Monaco is as well. But the new model is appealing because it is not a one-for-one remake, which would have been an easy to pull off but less interesting. The special edition manages to channel the feel of the vintage original by using rose gold accents on the dial, along with the textured outer section that brings to mind vintage synthetic leather straps. But it is entirely modern in materials and mechanics. The case is coated titanium, while the movement is the in-house Heuer 02. And this costs only US$300 more than a Monaco powered by an ETA movement, making it an easy choice for anyone who likes the model. The vintage Monaco “Dark Lord” ref. 74033N “Dark Lor...
Quill & Pad
Top 5 Reasons Why Watch Brands Need To Tread EXTREMELY Carefully with NFTs
In the wake of the current crypto crash and NFT markets taking a nosedive, and sharing sentiments here at Quill & Pad, Joshua Munchow goes over five very good reasons why NFTs could be a looming crisis for the watch industry. He feels that the watch industry needs to choose its next steps very carefully lest it become both latest victim AND inadvertently a criminal grifter in the NFT space.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921
Last year, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 collection turned 100 years old. But when a design remains incredibly compelling for over a century, you’ve got to admit that it goes beyond mere stylistic whims as Andrew discovered when he tried it out for a week on the wrist. There’s no denying that Vacheron Constantin … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Hands-on Review
The Watch That Changed My Mind On TAG! What we love: Comfortable and easy to wear, light for its size and specsBang for buck in finish, movement and specsGood looking design with vintage ques What we don’t love: Wears on the larger size for a 42mm mainly due to its heightNoisy movement and winding rotor (some may like this though)Some wearers may find the dial harder to read at a glance with the lack of contrast in the numerals Overall rating: 8/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5 / 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 Tag Heuer has always been one of those brands that never grabbed my attention. I always saw it as a watch brand that was a little overpriced, and like a lot of brands, you’re paying for more marketing than the watch itself. Now, I have owned a Tag Heuer Carrera Heuer01 in the past, so I’m not adverse to TAG at all, but it has since moved on to make way for others in my collection. So when I had the opportunity to get my hands on the new 60th Anniversary limited edition Autavia Flyback Chronograph, I was looking forward to road testing the latest iteration of the distinguished Autavia line. A Short History Lesson Before we go any further, let’s take a step back and in case you’re not familiar with the Autavia model and its history, here’s a quick refresh. The Autavia wristwatch collection, the first product launched under the leadership of Jack Heuer 60 years ago, got its name from two pillars of TAG Heuer’s history: Automobile and Av...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Hands-on with all 11 missions of the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch
To say that the announcement of the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch BioCeramic was the debut of the year would be an understatement. In fact, you could even argue it was the drop of the last decade. Waitlists and queues for watches are by no means a foreign concept to collectors, but this idea is typically … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hands-on with all 11 missions of the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Louis Erard Excellence Email Grand Feu II
Louis Erard goes from strength to strength, and today releases a new grand feu enamel dial version of their Excellene collection.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Why Is Everyone Not Talking About The New Green Seamaster?
A color change goes a long way.
Time+Tide
Hulk vs Hulk: How the new green Omega Seamaster Professional smashes differently
You’d be hard pressed to find a watch brand that hasn’t released a green watch in recent times. The new green Seamaster Professional Diver 300M is Omega’s entry to the contemporary diver category, and boy, is it a pretty one. No new Omega release goes by without great media fanfare, and considering the market positioning … ContinuedThe post Hulk vs Hulk: How the new green Omega Seamaster Professional smashes differently appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The Grand Seiko SLGH005 ‘White Birch’
In his HODINKEE debut, Brandon Menancio goes all in on the award-winning GS.
Time+Tide
The new Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Reed Green delivers more than your typical diver
The diver’s category, pun alert, is already saturated in the watch marketplace. Many of their design cues are quite fixed, as in order to be appealing, as well as meet the demands of the segment, they have to offer certain visual cues and functionality. But, leave it to the Germans to engineer a diver that … ContinuedThe post The new Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Reed Green delivers more than your typical diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names
Last week we launched our first ever Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword, and based on your feedback you guys were really happy with it – which makes us all here at Time+Tide very happy. As promised, this is not a one and done. Each week, we will post a new crossword for you all to solve … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega at the Winter Olympics and a special release for MB&F;
It’s the Winter Olympics, an event that once again raises baffling questions for those of us who haven’t grown up in Alpine regions. Why is that skier carrying an assault rifle? What are those curling guys doing with little brooms? And what in God’s good name is the sport of monobob? But then, of course, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega at the Winter Olympics and a special release for MB&F; appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: A 42mm (Yellow Gold) Hublot Both My Wife And I Can Wear? Yes, Please
The Classic Fusion goes YG in 42mm for the first time ever.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The First-Ever Openworked AP Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon
AP goes X-ray.
SJX Watches
Seiko Revives the King Seiko
Introduced just over a year ago, the King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation SJE083 was the surprise comeback of the King Seiko label that had been dormant for decades. Though it was a limited edition, the SJE083 hinted at the possibility of King Seiko returning as a regular production offering. Perhaps quicker than expected, that has happened with the introduction of the King Seiko. A single model that’s in four variants, the new King Seiko is effectively vintage in both size and style, being modelled on the original KSK of 1965. The original King Seiko KSK of 1965 Initial thoughts Sitting in between Grand Seiko and the Seiko Presage in both price and positioning, King Seiko is the brand’s affordable entry into vintage-inspired design – while incorporating Grand Seiko vibes – with its sharply faceted case and, for the first time, a bracelet. The bracelet gives the new King Seiko something of an integrated-bracelet feel, which puts it in competition with more modern offerings, including the Citizen Series 8. But the new King Seiko stands out for its old-school design that’s faithful to the original. The strict adherence to historical design is the norm for Seiko remakes, although most of the brand’s remakes have been limited editions. Because King Seiko a regular production offering, it is far more accessible, both in terms of price and availability. It does away with the date, unlike the earlier SJE083 The only possible drawback is repositioning of King Seiko,...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Porsche Design Just Turned 50, And It's Celebrating With A Quartet Of Snazzy Cars And Watches
The brand is bringing back famous design cues from its golden era.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Phantasos Triclops is that rarest of things – a truly original watch
EDITOR’S NOTE: We have been advised by readers that this watch has allegedly not been sent to consumers despite repeated promises. We have contracted the brand ourselves and not received a response. We suggest readers be very wary about proceeding to buy these watches. Let me guess, you see a Submariner and you yawn. Time and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Phantasos Triclops is that rarest of things – a truly original watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Announcements: Roger Smith And Romain Gauthier Appointed Trustees Of The Horological Society Of New York
HSNY's Board of Trustees Goes International.
Revolution
The Master Chronometer: A Story of Triumph Over Tragedy
With both Omega and Tudor now offering a Master Chronometer, the latter in the guise of the new Black Bay Ceramic, the brands have really upped their game and showcased just how incredibly accurate and technical in-house watchmaking has become.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar
Patek Philippe introduced a bunch of notable new models this year, including the recent “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P. The most notable amongst its accessible complications – accessible in a relative sense – is unquestionably the In-line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P, an all-new model with a movement developed from the ground up. The ref. 5236P takes its cues from the “linear” perpetual calendar pocket watches of the 1950s and 1960s, namely the ref. 725 with perpetual calendar only, and the refs. 699, 843, and 844 that also included a minute repeater. The nickname stems from the calendar display within a single, horizontal window under 12 o’clock, which instantly sets such watches apart from conventional calendar displays that rely on multiple sub-dials. A ref. 699 from 1956 with linear calendar and minute repeater This same straight-line calendar display has been reproduced on the ref. 5236P – a substantial feat considering its compact size and relatively large calendar window. It was realised with an all-new calendar mechanism with a cleverly designed display, but one still constructed as a traditional, “grand lever” calendar. Initial thoughts Despite its vintage inspiration, the ref. 5236P looks and feels like a contemporary watch, especially because of its colours and size. In the hand the ref. 5236P is substantial, both in diameter and weight. At 41.3 mm it’s one of the biggest perpetual calendar watches Patek Philippe makes. In...
Hodinkee
Watch Of The Week: The Grand Seiko That Taught Me To Love Subtler, Smaller Watches
Finding my perfect GS took time. But once I saw it, I knew.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Navigator And Explorer, Two
Jon goes hands-on with the latest Rolex Explorer II and Cole has a charming budget-friendly alternative.
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: The Seiko Prospex Samurai Save The Ocean, Asia Special Edition SRPH43
Seiko’s Save The Ocean series has now been around for about two years, with a very simple motive behind it. If nobody wants to go diving anymore, then who would need dive watches? Of course, the ethical drive behind removing marine debris and other conservation efforts goes much deeper than sales, but it is a … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Seiko Prospex Samurai Save The Ocean, Asia Special Edition SRPH43 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.