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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

From Grand Seiko to Audemars Piguet, 4 watches that show musician James Blake is a serious watch guy Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet 4 watches May 6, 2021

From Grand Seiko to Audemars Piguet, 4 watches that show musician James Blake is a serious watch guy

If you’ve ever come across the singer and songwriter James Blake, you’ll know he’s got one of the best voices in the business and goes about his work with the detached cool of a guy that knows it. His unique style of ambient electronic music has won him critical acclaim and a global fan set, … ContinuedThe post From Grand Seiko to Audemars Piguet, 4 watches that show musician James Blake is a serious watch guy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner’ up Apr 27, 2021

PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch

Update #2:The never-ending story goes on… Since publishing this update we have spoken to Fog City Vintage (@fogcityvintage), who removed the Rolex Submariner listing – with an asking price at that time of $22,500USD – and refunded the seller as soon as it came to light that the provenance of the watch was not as originally described. As … ContinuedThe post PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Refreshes the Triple Split in Style SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 7, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Refreshes the Triple Split in Style

When A. Lange & Söhne first introduced the Triple Split in 2018, it was an incremental improvement over the Double Split but still a landmark, being the first watch capable of recording twin elapsed times of up to 12 hours. Lange remains the only watchmaker to offer a split-seconds chronograph of this magnitude. And now at Watches & Wonders 2021 it is unveiling the Triple Split in a new guise of pink gold and a blue dial. Initial thoughts Interestingly, Watches & Wonders 2021 marks the first major watch fair where Lange has not introduced any new timepieces with either a silver or black dial. Instead, the new Lange models all feature bold dial colours that break away from tradition – and I’m all for it. The new Triple Split is a merely facelift of the original, which had a dark grey dial and white gold case that gave it an austere characteristic of Lange. In contrast, the new model sheds its predecessor’s sternness with the rich combination of a blue dial and pink gold case, allowing it to come across as significantly more contemporary. I really like the new look. It’s eminently striking, while also being intriguing as it’s an unusual colour combination for Lange, which typically makes its watches with either silver or black dials. I particularly like the rhodium-coloured sub-dials, that contrast distinctly against the blue dial. Regardless of colour, the Triple Split is a magnificently complicated watch, one of the most complicated that Lange produces. Arguab...

5 of the best Grand Seiko Instagram accounts that you need in your feed Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Instagram accounts Mar 31, 2021

5 of the best Grand Seiko Instagram accounts that you need in your feed

Not all watch brands have a community around them. In fact, most don’t, which is a huge challenge for those brands to build a loyal following who are relentlessly passionate about their product. As far as relentless passion goes, Grand Seiko is one of the most well-loved brands on the planet when it comes to … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best Grand Seiko Instagram accounts that you need in your feed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Hublot Big Bang Integral King Gold is a watch that demands attention Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral King Mar 7, 2021

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Hublot Big Bang Integral King Gold is a watch that demands attention

Editor’s note: Andrew walked through the door of the Time+Tide office one afternoon in February and looked down at his wrist. “It’s a watch that can wear you if you’re not careful,” he said, gaze still fixed on the Hublot Big Bang Integral King Gold that he was wearing. A strong statement from a man … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Hublot Big Bang Integral King Gold is a watch that demands attention appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Roger Dubuis Debuts the Excalibur Spider 39 mm SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Debuts Mar 2, 2021

Roger Dubuis Debuts the Excalibur Spider 39 mm

Known for its bold, big, and skeletonised watches, Roger Dubuis is paring back its extravagant style – just slightly – with two smaller, 39 mm versions of the Excalibur Spider. Limited to 88 pieces in each guise, the Excalibur Spider 39 mm retains the brand’s signature Celtic-cross flying tourbillon and the open-worked case of the lightweight Spider series. In addition to the twin Spider models, the new 39 mm size also includes an edition created in collaboration with Italian tyre maker Pirelli, the Excalibur Spider Pirelli that’s limited to just 28 watches. Initial thoughts With the same aesthetic found on earlier Excalibur watches, which were either 45 mm or 47 mm, the new 39 mm models are practical rather than innovative. And the RD510SQ skeleton flying tourbillon movement already exists, found inside the 36 mm Excalibur watches for women. What’s new is the 39 mm case, which makes the Excalibur substantially more wearable. The new case is undoubtedly a commercial decision, since the line between watches for each gender gets increasingly fuzzy. The Excalibur Spider 39 mm Pirelli More women now want larger watches, while men sometimes revert to case sizes that are more old-school 20th century than 21st. During the online launch of the 39 mm models, Roger Dubuis chief executive Nicola Andreatta noted that the 36 mm Excalibur watches were a surprise hit amongst male clients in Japan, despite being marketed as ladies’ watches. The 39 mm Excalibur Spider fil...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Ark from Jacob Veil might be the best value integrated bracelet watch around Time+Tide
Feb 21, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Ark from Jacob Veil might be the best value integrated bracelet watch around

Let’s not beat around the bush, I can see it too. The Gerald Genta influence is strong here, but in a somewhat butcher presence than other arboreally named references and porthole-alike wristwear. So before you start throwing punches, yes, certain design cues are notable in The Ark from Jacob Veil. But maybe those cues have … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Ark from Jacob Veil might be the best value integrated bracelet watch around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Feb 19, 2021

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt

While not the fanciest hotel in Basel – that title goes to Les Trois Rois across the river – the Swissôtel Le Plaza Basel was synonymous with the luxury watch brands that exhibited in Baselworld, the once dominant watch fair that was crippled by the departure of key exhibitors like Rolex and Patek Philippe, and then the pandemic. Located just across the street from Messe Basel, the sprawling convention centre where Baselworld once took place, the Swissôtel Basel was declared bankrupt by a Basel court in early last month. The hotel was heavily dependent on the city’s primary trade fairs, Art Basel and Baselworld. According to past news reports, over 60% of revenue at the Basel hotel came from trade fair bookings. And those trade fair bookings were exorbitant. So pricey that only the industry’s biggest movers and shakers could stay there – the hotel typically imposed a 10-day minimum stay for Baselworld leading to a bill of about 7000 Swiss francs per room – the Swissôtel Basel was a place where you could spot Thierry Stern, any one of the Hayeks who control Swatch Group, and the occasional Bugatti parked in front. According to industry insiders who had rooms booked for Baselworld 2020, the hotel did not offer refunds and instead moved the bookings to 2021. With clients sitting at the bottom of the ranking of creditors, it is unlikely that any of the fees will be repaid. Though managed by Accor, the French group that owns the Swissôtel brand, the Swissôtel...

Zenith Chronomaster Sport: A Chronograph That Reinvigorates The Senses Quill & Pad
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Feb 13, 2021

Zenith Chronomaster Sport: A Chronograph That Reinvigorates The Senses

It turns out that a year of quasi-isolation and abnormality can do things to a person, like make them write a poem about how they can’t think of what to write until they look at something new to spark inspiration. Luckily for Joshua Munchow, he happened to have such an item in his possession, at least temporarily: here he tests out the brand-new Zenith Chronomaster Sport fresh off the heels of its debut during the digital LVMH Watch Week 2021.

Ulysse Collin: Grower Champagnes With Serious Elegance Quill & Pad
Jan 28, 2021

Ulysse Collin: Grower Champagnes With Serious Elegance

It seems only appropriate that such a fascinating champagne Grower as Ulysse Collin has an even more fascinating backstory. David heading toward toppling a sparkling Goliath. For well over 200 years, since 1812, the Collin family had worked vineyards in the region and for a century of that time also worked as coopers. The family vineyards were first lost, then recovered, and now the firm goes from strength to strength, slowly but surely building the crown as king of the Grower movement.

Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was Jan 21, 2021

Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep

There’s a strong argument that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was the first real diver’s watch of its kind… and that’s because it was. It’s also true that the Rolex Submariner, which was also released in 1953, but after the Fathoms, did borrow some stylistic cues from the Blancpain. However, if any one watchmaker can claim … ContinuedThe post Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar Jan 6, 2021

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar

Having revived the Master Control line early last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre largely translated models from the 1990s into the present day, save for one all-new watch, the Master Control Chronograph Calendar. The Chronograph Calendar features two complications that JLC long offered individually, but never combined before – the chronograph and triple calendar with moon phase. Taking its cues from the bestselling, 1990s collection of the same name, the Master Control is a gentleman’s watch in several flavours, all defined by a subtly retro style. Though a new model, the Chronograph Calendar retains the same style, while having a movement that’s the brand’s longstanding chronograph calibre with the addition of its well-known triple calendar module. The “Master Control” moniker originated from the fact that watches in the original collection were all tested for 1000 hours Initial thoughts Possessing a solid, workmanlike build and finish, the Chronograph Calendar sticks to the ageless Master Control look of the 1990s, more or less. While a couple of details could be improved – one reasonably expects more of the movement given JLC’s history – the Chronograph Calendar is good overall. The Calendar Chronograph in rose gold (left) and steel Visually, the Calendar Chronograph is a largish watch, though it doesn’t measure as such. At 40 mm wide and 12.05 mm high – close in size to the Rolex Daytona – the Chronograph Calendar is moderately sized, but the desig...

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Pioneer “Cure ALS” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Jan 6, 2021

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Pioneer “Cure ALS”

H. Moser & Cie. has given its elegant take on the sports watch striking green livery in support of a good cause. The Pioneer “Cure ALS” is essentially an incentive for donations to Duke University’s research and treatment centre for amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ALS), an incurable muscle-weakening disease – making the respective minimum-required donation gets you either of the two limited-edition watches. Both watches features the brand’s signature fume dials in striking, deep green. One is a simple three-hand watch, while the other is equipped with a flying tourbillon containing an impressive double-hairspring. Both watches have discreet lettering at six o’clock in a nod to the cause Initial thoughts Watches created to benefit good causes are heartening, particularly ones like the new Pioneer pair, where the entirety of the donation goes to the medical programme. Already an appealing watch, the Pioneer features many quintessential Moser characteristics – namely the dial finish and in-house movements – and is enhanced by its charitable nature. The brand’s most affordable steel sports watch, the Pioneer Centre Second “Cure ALS” features an upgrade over the ordinary version in the form of an 18k solid-gold rotor that replaces the standard tungsten rotor. However, design wise it is a bit too close to a standard model – the green dial is similar to that in the regular production variant, which is available in a different, but similar, shade of gre...

Lord of the bling: 8 watches that prove diamonds can also be a man’s best friend Time+Tide
Dec 17, 2020

Lord of the bling: 8 watches that prove diamonds can also be a man’s best friend

Many guys dismiss the idea of wearing a diamond watch out of fear it’ll seem ludicrously over the top. Admittedly, countless celebrities rock blinged-out watches smothered with so many diamonds you can barely see the metal. But there are other, more subtle alternatives to the fully iced-out look you may want to explore. It is … ContinuedThe post Lord of the bling: 8 watches that prove diamonds can also be a man’s best friend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Dec 15, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano

Announced as a prelude to the 90th anniversary of its iconic reversible wristwatch, the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is the final debut from Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) for 2020. Cleverly constructed to utilise the twin faces of the watch for two time zones, the Tribute Duoface was already launched earlier in the year in a similar guise, with a dark blue dial. Now it returns with a pleasing metallic-burgundy dial that’s once again equipped with a strap made by Argentinian polo-boot maker Casa Fagliano – in a 190-piece limited edition that’ll be available only at JLC boutiques. Initial thoughts Rendered in a glossy, metallic burgundy, the dial of the new Reverso is striking. It suits the colour of the pink-gold case well, while also giving a more vibrant look to a watch that is usually dressed in more sedate colours. The Tribute Duoface feels a little bit thick for an elegant watch, something that’s accented by the curve of the back, a feature devised to help it sit better on the wrist. Also at odds with the style of the watch is the strap. Robustly made of canvas with leather ends, the strap feels more suited to something far more sporty. Nonetheless the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is still an attractive watch. And it’s not only the look that appeals, but also the movement within. Although the cal. 854A/2 is several decades old – the original cal. 854 was unveiled in 1994 with the first-generation Reverso Duo – it remains simple, sensible, and smart in h...

Ever considered buying a watch on eBay? Here’s why it’s now 100% risk-free Time+Tide
Dec 15, 2020

Ever considered buying a watch on eBay? Here’s why it’s now 100% risk-free

When buying pre-owned watches online, there are two emotions that you feel after sending your money. The first is the heady excitement at the prospect of adding a new piece to your collection. The second is that queasy feeling in the pit of your stomach – a blend of terror and anxiety as you fear … ContinuedThe post Ever considered buying a watch on eBay? Here’s why it’s now 100% risk-free appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review Dec 13, 2020

Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review

The Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”, a timepiece clouded in such mystery that its existence was all but forgotten, until recently. The story behind this timepiece goes back to 1970, where after the iconic El Primero movement was produced by Zenith, the manufacture also produced a prototype for a manual winding chronograph. This chronograph model was housed in a blackened steel case, which was quite rare during the ’70s. The manufacture produced only a handful of these concepts, with the watch never making it into full production.  Soon after, the quartz crisis hit, which forced Zenith’s El Primero savior Charles Vermont to store all the plans and designs for mechanical watches including El Primero designs in a secret walled off attic in the manufacture. Just imagine though, if this beautiful all-black timepiece was never to be uncovered by the manufacture!  Luckily this wasn’t the case, as in 2019 when Zenith began celebrating their 50th anniversary of the El Primero Chronograph caliber, the team at the manufacture decided to go through all the plans, designs, and parts that they found in the secret attic. Among the numerous items hidden away, was a box that contained the original prototype of this special black chronograph model. A model that hasn’t been seen by anyone since the early 1970s.  The Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” project is a remake of the original 1970 model. Zenith, however, decided that instead of faithfully reproducing a replica of...

HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma is the creativity you asked for, but do you really want it? Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma Nov 23, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma is the creativity you asked for, but do you really want it?

Watching on from the sidelines, consumers on social media constantly beg the watch industry to put the novel in novelties, asking for original, fresh, and forward-thinking designs in a conventional and traditional industry. Instead, we get 1mm variations in size, a new dial colour, and the crowd goes wild to the extent that boggles the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma is the creativity you asked for, but do you really want it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.