Two Broke Watch Snobs
Raven Watches: The Endeavour
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553 articles · 56 videos found · page 16 of 21
Two Broke Watch Snobs
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Revolution
Revolution
Purists will immediately, and rightfully, note that Black Tie as a dress code does not allow for the men to wear wristwatches. Yet those regulations come from an era in which Great Britain still had a King and every airplane a propeller. Times have changed, and so have watches. In 2011 Piaget surprised everybody by […]
Quill & Pad
Lebanon has an extensive history with vines being cultivated there for some 6,000 years. Vines were brought to the region by the Phoenicians, who then took the wines around the Mediterranean. All of which has led to the amazing wines of Chateau Musar in the modern age as Ken Gargett reports.
Revolution
Monochrome
The trajectory of the Ferdinand Berthoud brand has been quite remarkable since its revival in 2015 by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele of Chopard and his teams. Its inaugural model won the prestigious Aiguille d’Or at GPHG, followed by numerous other awards. Beyond industry recognition, collectors widely praise the brand’s fascinating designs and uncompromising craftsmanship, culminating in last […]
Hodinkee
The sailing-inspired collection blends a first-for-the-brand dive bezel and sporty chronograph vibes for an affordable offering.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Does Grand Seiko really clear the Rolex bar? 10 years of wrist time testing both brands shows where GS wins and where the crown still leads.
Revolution
Quill & Pad
There are two ways to define a day: astronomically by measuring the time between midday to midday and by using a manmade clock. The difference between them is that the length of the former fluctuates while the latter remains fixed. As Ian Skellern explains, the same is true for the humble second.
Revolution
Grand Seiko has a reputation as the maker of perfectly finished watches, where precision and performance of the highest calibre are valued above everything. And when it comes to their dive watches, the same depth is there…
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: Baselworld 2017 is just around the corner, which means our overactive imaginations have kicked into hyperdrive, imagining what new forms of wrist candy the brands will be dropping on us. At the forefront of our speculations are Tudor, who always play their cards close to their chest when it comes to new releases – which only makes … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 6 of Tudor’s most important technical achievements (and a couple of Basel 2017 predictions for good measure) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Russell has this theory that Bulgari is the biggest rebel in the entire watchmaking industry. He went to Bulgari to put that to the test.The post Inside Bulgari’s rebellion: how the watch industry’s fastest mover does the impossible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
This Valentine's Day, the gang reunites to get the final jab in at your ex in the form of a limited edition take on the Q Timex.
Hodinkee
Mom & Pop shops are the unsung heroes of the American economy.
Quill & Pad
Clare Valley winemaker Jim Barry has teamed up with one of the most famous German producers, Dr. Loosen, to form a new joint venture called LoosenBarry. It currently offers two blends of Rieslings: one using Mosel grapes but made in the Australian style, while the other Riesling comes from Clare Valley grapes, but made in the German style. And the results are in!
SJX Watches
A Vancouver native who studied watchmaking in Switzerland, Bradley Taylor spent the last four years working on his own movement, an endeavour that is has finally in the Ardea. Manually wound with three hands, the Ardea is powered by a hand-made movement made by Mr Taylor, who incorporated a retrograde seconds, setting this apart from the high-end time-only watches that are now common. Mr Taylor made his debut with time-only watches that were powered by high-quality, but essentially stock, Vaucher movements. The Ardea, in contrast, is of his own making. He fabricated his own movement by building on the vintage Omega cal. 30T2 architecture and then making most of the watch himself, right down to the guilloche dial and solid gold wheels of the gear train. Mr Taylor’s attention to detail extends to surprising aspects of the watch, like the platinum applied numerals in a custom typeface. Initial thoughts The Ardea, and especially its movement, is the product of substantial manual craftsmanship. From milling to filing to drilling to polishing – Mr Taylor does almost all of it himself and has documented the process with many photos and videos. As a result, the Ardea is more artisanal than other recent indie creations that are engineer-conceived timepieces, and Mr Taylor deserves credit. Tapping the main plate Applying guilloche to the dial ring with a hand-cranked rose engine Mr Taylor’s choice of movement construction is not surprising, since the Omega cal. 30T2 architectu...
Monochrome
Since its recent revival under the MELB Group (owner of Moser and Agenhor too), Hautlence has focused on unconventional time displays with mechanical animation rather than traditional indications. The Sphere, first introduced in 2022, quickly became the brand’s signature series, combining a multi-axis spherical jumping hour with a retrograde minute. The new Sphere Series 4 […]
Worn & Wound
For those familiar with New York-by-way-of-Hong Kong menswear retailer The Armoury, Mark Cho’s move into watches won’t come as any major shock. His brand has long flirted with watchmakers and collaboration over the years, including with H. Moser & Cie., UNIMATIC, and Paulin. Now, Temporal Works, co-founded with The Armoury’s creative director, Elliot Hammer, is the natural progression for the brand. Their inaugural collection, Series A, reflects the same approach that has defined The Armoury since it opened in 2010 (and why the store has recently been named one of New York Times’ top 50 menswear stores in the country). Taking inspiration from a bygone era of tailoring, The Armoury is all wood-paneled, brick-walled masculinity that celebrates an inherent grace when dressing well. The Series A has this same throughline, using Cho’s singular vision of his retail store – masculine, elegant, and minimalist. In fact, the connection between Temporal Works and his existing brand is a throughline explicitly made by the founder, who noted, “Our goal was straightforward: create watches as thoughtfully designed and effortlessly wearable as a perfectly tailored navy blazer.” This jumping-off point seems to work in both Hammer and Cho’s favor, as the Series A clearly shows an unwavering vision of a brand identity that feels complementary without being derivative (something other lifestyle-to-watch brands like Louis Vuitton and Montblanc sometimes struggle with). This...
Hodinkee
More price increases are coming, including Patek, MB&F;, and Moser, executives say, without a better U.S. tariff deal.
Monochrome
Founded in 2004, Hautlence became part of the MELB Holding Group in 2012 and relocated to Shaffhausen to share premises with sister company H. Moser & Cie. Renowned for its unusual and creative displays of time, often showcased in large rectangular retro TV-shaped cases, Hautlence’s first Vagabonde model with wandering digital hours appeared in 2018 […]
Monochrome
The original Farer Aqua Compressor Endeavour from 2017 was a surprise from the small British brand. Not only did it have an impressive 300-metre water-resistance rating, but it was also a bona fide super compressor – its caseback compressed against a gasket as water pressure increased with depth, forming a tighter seal. The latest trio in […]
Time+Tide
Marquetry is a niche endeavour, but the results are astonishing, with the melange of natural materials making up wonderful paysages.The post 7 of the best marquetry dials showing off the incredible intricacies of this art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
In our current age of disingenuous AI and copyright controversies, sometimes the best way to beat a design thief is to…imitate them right back? In perhaps the cheekiest move we’ve ever seen a watchmaker execute in response to an influx of copycat designs from no-name brands, Studio Underd0g has done just that. Instead of taking the legal route-an endeavour that is time-consuming, costly, and largely pointless in today’s world of mass-production and dropshipping-the British watchmaker has employed a tactful play of horological judo, and produced two new models inspired wholeheartedly by the very designs stolen from them. Enter the Av0cado and Guacam0le, just as colorful, cheerful, and charismatic as the rest of their lineup, with an extra dollop of good humor on the side. Take one look at the knockoffs from a myriad of random “brands” and you’ll see what Studio Underd0g is talking about. The color schemes, design cues, and even text details are shamelessly ripped straight from the authentic watchmaker’s catalog. This is, of course, the sharp side of the double-edged sword for a brand with a visual style as instantly recognizable as Studio Underd0g’s, even given their relative youth as a company; when you create a style that resonates with so many people, you’re bound to have imitators. They haven’t cut any corners with the Av0cado and Guacam0le, though, despite the comedic backstory. Both are in direct response to a company called Proxima’s k...
Monochrome
Hautlence – part of MELB Holding, which is also the owner of H. Moser & Cie. – has been around for quite some time and is known for its TV-shaped case design and original displays. The brand, which seemed dormant for a while, was brought back into the spotlight by releasing the Vagabonde Series with […]
Monochrome
Since its inception in 2018, Collective Horology, a “proudly headquartered in Ventura, California” club for watch enthusiasts, has become quite famous through the Collective Series, which involves collaborations and limited editions with watch brands like IWC, H. Moser & Cie., Armin Strom, Czapek and Oris, to name a few and the Portfolio Series, which commissions […]
Worn & Wound
I had the privilege of writing about the last Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Salm0n release for Worn & Wound in September. Serendipitously, Studio Underd0g was in Montreal the following week with the RedBar traveling road show. It was a real treat to see and handle their watches in person finally. They even had one of their Pizza watches and their Moser collaboration. The latter was quite exquisite, as was the new Salm0n, but part of me hoped that Studio Underdog wasn’t moving upscale, leaving behind what got them there in the first place: affordable, whimsical chronographs that make you smile when you look down at your wrist. When I learned that Seagull had announced a new minimum order quantity of 10,000 units for their ST-19 series movements, I became concerned about Studio Underd0g’s most popular model, the 01SERIES. This worry was heightened by the brouhaha that followed the collaboration with Moser and the decision to use Sellita-based movements in their 03SERIES. Fear not, as Studio Underd0g has successfully contracted Seagull to create an exclusive and enhanced version of their caliber called the ST-1901B. This reaffirms their commitment to providing mechanical chronographs priced under $1,000. For those unfamiliar with the history of the ST-19 column-wheel chronograph movement, its origins are Swiss. In 1961, Venus sold its machinery, tooling, and blueprints for the Venus 175 caliber to the Tianjin Watch Factory. They then upgraded the original 17-jewel movement to ...
Worn & Wound
I have a confession to make: I’m a bit of an integrated bracelet sports watch skeptic. As the watch community went crazy for integrated, Gerald Genta inspired designs over the last few years, I largely observed from the bench. Watches like the Royal Oak, the Nautilus, and newer challengers like Moser’s Streamliner and Chopard’s reissued (and heavily redesigned) Alpine Eagle have always been curiosities at best, for me. I’ve never lusted after an integrated bracelet sports watch. It feels like that’s almost transgressive to say, or at least would have been at the height of Royal Oak mania a few years ago – but it’s just never been a real point of interest for me. Now, part of the reason for that is certainly the prohibitive price point of many of the most sought after integrated bracelet sports watches. I don’t have thirty thousand dollars (or more) to spend on a watch, and quite frankly if I did, I think I could find other watches I’d prefer for the money. But it’s not just the expense. I’ve never been a fan of the way these watches look on my wrist. Even if I admire the craftsmanship of a Royal Oak bracelet – because it’s honestly undeniable – something about the hard angles just didn’t do it for me. Anyway, skeptic though I am, part of the deal when you work in the watch media world is that you just get to see and try on a lot of stuff. And so there I was at Windup Chicago earlier this year, checking out watches at the Citizen boot...
SJX Watches
Best known for its TV-shaped watch, Hautlence marks its 20th anniversary this year with something radically different, but also entirely apt: the Retrovision ’47. Cleverly inspired by a 1940s radio, the watch has a titanium case painted in a bright green that contains a self-winding movement with a flying tourbillon. Though it’s powered by an existing movement (borrowed from Moser), the Retrovision ’47 is the brand’s first all-new model in a long time. Whether it marks a new direction for the brand is unknown, but it definitely makes a statement. Initial thoughts The Retrovision ’47 is a weird and interesting watch that is a surprisingly creative take on the vintage-inspired timepiece. Even though it is outlandish, the Retrovision ’47 is coherent. The watch achieves what it sets out to do: instantly evokes a vintage radio. It’s paradoxical in several ways: not exceptionally large, but it stands out because of its shape and colour. And at a distance, the Retrovision ’47 resembles a plastic toy, but up close the fit and finish make it clear that this is a high-end watch. I doubt I would wear one, but Hautlence should be commended for doing something bold and different. Beyond the watch itself, however, Hautlence still needs work. Weird and wonderful as it is, the Retrovision ’47 doesn’t explain where Hautlence is going, or even what the brand is really all about now. Even though the watch has a quirky, intrinsic appeal, the brand behind it still needs cla...
Monochrome
Until the introduction of the Retrovision ’47 with its distinctive green Bakelite, radio-like case, black and blue had been the favourite colours of the re-launched Hautlence, part of the MELB Luxe Group, which also owns H. Moser & Cie yet remains an independent brand. In 2023, Hautlence presented the Sphere Series 1, featuring its emblematic […]
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