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Results for IWC Mark XX

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Citizen Brings an Advanced Moonphase Display to their Line of Eco-Drive Powered Atomic Timekeepers Worn & Wound
Citizen Brings Sep 28, 2023

Citizen Brings an Advanced Moonphase Display to their Line of Eco-Drive Powered Atomic Timekeepers

Celebrating 30 years since the release of Citizen’s first atomic timekeeping watch, the new Tsuki-yoma A-T shows the evolution of the brand’s technical prowess and Citizen’s penchant for looking skyward for inspiration. Named after the ancient Japanese moon god, the Tsuki-yomi collection lives up to its namesake. Informed by a mathematical formula developed by Citizen, this watch calculates the phase of the moon each day from signals received from multi-band radio transmitters. These signals then are interpreted at the 6 o’clock mark of the dial, adjusting as the natural phases of the move wax and wane throughout the month. Technically speaking, that’s not even the most impressive feature of this watch’s use of the Luna Program technology. The watch will also switch the moon phase display to match the view either from the Northern or Southern Hemisphere, leaving wearers to easily navigate from Australia to New Mexico without having to manually change the moon phases yourself.  The dial is finished with a world time subdial in 24 time zones, a perpetual calendar, and day-date functionality at 4 o’clock. The watch comes in three colorways, blue, silver, and red. Each is housed in a 43mm scratch-resistant Super Titanium case with a sapphire crystal, each durably made to be taken on your next adventure. All three references are powered by the atomic timekeeping movement, Eco-Drive 2 Cal. H874, which can run for upwards of 2.5 years on a full charge.  The Tsuki-...

Review: Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor Sep 27, 2023

Review: Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor

When we first featured at the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor right after it was unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2023, it was clear that the model had struck a chord among almost those who had the pleasure to see it in the metal. The design is distinctively Cartier in style, slightly whimsical, yet stands apart from almost everything else in the brand’s catalogue.  Cartier’s legacy as a renowned jeweller is indisputable, and this timepiece is a fusion of its knowledge in jewellery and watches, with a good dose of the traditional Cartier style. From the lacquer case inlays to the artful skeletonisation, the result is a balanced face that is entirely original.  Key takeaways The design is an ideal combination of a contemporary, tasteful skeleton movement with the historical Santos case design The plane micro-rotor is just right in size, neither too big nor too small, and adds just the right amount of whimsy without being gimmicky The large, as opposed to XL, case is ideal for the movement, but some might find it too compact As it is with all Cartier skeleton movements, the Etachron regulator feels out of place Initial thoughts I usually take a loupe to a watch for a closer look, and when I did so with the Santos skeleton the movement’s design shone through. The plates and bridges of the brand-new cal. 9629 MC are both structural and add to the aesthetic brilliance of this piece. Though Cartier has long made skeleton watches a hallmark of its line-up, the cal. 9629 M...

Inside Vortic as they Launch the Colorado Watch Company Worn & Wound
Rado Watch Company Sep 26, 2023

Inside Vortic as they Launch the Colorado Watch Company

The story of American watchmaking is long, complex, and undertold. It’s regrettably easy to consign the period of this country’s history as a global titan in watch production to an appendix in the greater history of watchmaking writ large. But the fact remains that the United States, in the 19th century and well into the 20th, produced millions of timepieces at an incredible pace, developing manufacturing technologies that would scale and improve both here and abroad. We don’t make watches at such a scale anymore, but there is a growing movement in the American watchmaking space that looks to that period as inspiration, and as a reminder that if it can happen once, it can happen again. The Vortic Watch Company is one of the key players in a new age of watchmaking in America, and they’ve just announced a major step forward that redefines what the company does, and where it might be heading in the future.  I have always thought of Vortic as one of the bedrock companies in the burgeoning microbrand space. They are a mainstay at Windup Watch Fairs, and carry many of the hallmarks of the most successful and well established microbrands. The watches are original and purely their own thing, their team is accessible, and the identity of the brand itself is well considered and established. But it would be incorrect to think of them as purely part of the pack, or even as part of an upper tier of the pack given their longevity and success. They occupy a truly unique niche th...

Interview: Rexhep Rexhepi, the Independent Watchmaker Thinking of the Long-Term SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Sep 25, 2023

Interview: Rexhep Rexhepi, the Independent Watchmaker Thinking of the Long-Term

Rexhep Rexhepi is certainly a star in independent watchmaking, particularly in the last three years as “indies” have become fashionable, leading to a proliferation of brands and spike in prices. But like the recent popularity of independent watchmaking as a whole, Mr Rexhepi’s success is relatively recent and its longevity has yet to be proven. Now just 36 years old, Mr Rexhepi founded Akrivia in 2012 before starting to make watches under his own name when he debuted the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I (RRCC I) in 2018. Does he have what it takes to become a great watchmaker in the decades to come? I sought to find that out by uncovering his motivations and vision during his recent visit to Singapore. The interview has been edited for clarity and length. SJX: Your RRCC I sold for almost US$1 million at auction in May. How does that make you feel? Rexhep Rexhepi (RR): Honestly, it’s always strange because I never really expected this. As a watchmaker that you want to control everything, even all small details, but unfortunately I’m not able to control that. It happened and I can’t do anything about it. I feel a little more pressure because people expect more now. I’m also afraid that people will change their minds [about my work]. I don’t want to change what I want to do and I don’t want to attract more people who want only to invest in my watches. I worry about that. But again, I know that maybe the market will not stay like this, but we try to...

The Omega Symbol: Where Does it Come From and What Does it Mean? Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Sep 21, 2023

The Omega Symbol: Where Does it Come From and What Does it Mean?

The Omega symbol that accompanies the brand’s classical logotype is one of the most recognizable emblems in the watch world, up there with Rolex’s hallmark coronet and Patek Philippe’s venerable Calatrava cross. But what exactly does Omega’s iconic hieroglyph actually symbolize, and what is its meaning in the context of the Swiss manufacture’s watchmaking history? Put simply, the symbol that has long been identified with the Omega brand is a stylized version of the 24th and final letter in the Greek alphabet, called Omega. (If you went to a college that had fraternities and sororities, this probably isn’t news to you.) Much like its counterpart at the beginning of the Greek alphabet, Alpha, the symbolism of the letter Omega has been interpreted various ways throughout history. As “the first” letter, Alpha has become associated with leadership and dominance, i.e., an “Alpha Male” or an “Alpha Dog.” Omega, as the final letter, has been known to connote greatness in its own way, representing the culmination or ultimate expression of a great effort or undertaking. The Biblical connotation of “I am the Alpha and the Omega” - i.e., the beginning and the end, as spoken by Jesus in the Book of Revelation (below) - has also lent weight to the concept of Omega as representing the end of an epoch or, in more ominous but perhaps more horologically relevant terms, the End of Time. So what does all this have to do with a watch brand? Let’s start at the...

Farer Debuts a New Chronograph Collection, the Chrono-Contempo Worn & Wound
Farer Debuts Sep 21, 2023

Farer Debuts a New Chronograph Collection, the Chrono-Contempo

Each new release from Farer seems to be made to combat the stereotype that British design is dull or humdrum. And with each reference comes an innate understanding of color combinations, setting it apart from similar brands in the market. Their latest collection, the Chrono-Contempo line, might just be the best yet from Farer to showcase the brand’s talents in action. The Chrono-Contempo collection, released today, has taken inspiration from Farer’s own backyard. The colorways in this collection are the aptly named Chalcot and Portobello, two nods to historic parts of London. Each with its own unique take on contemporary design, the two blend beautifully to create a broader landscape of Farer’s unique eye for color, encompassing vibrant orange, subtle navy, and a shock of mint green. Chalcot, named for the Square right next door to Farer’s HQ, balances big personality in a wearable design. Inspired by the “Big Eye” chronograph (named for the minute counter being larger than the other subdials), there’s a lot happening on the dial, without ever feeling overwhelming. This is due, in part, to the subtle way in which two of the subdials blend into the mint green backdrop, while the 3 o’clock subdial stands out in white. Further accented by a navy ceramic bezel and orange hands, this watch does Chalcot Square’s characteristic style justice. Second, there is Portobello. This stretch of London is a bustling, creative, and metropolitan hub and the watch mirrors t...

Minase and Fratello are Back with a New Version of the M-3, this Time in “Nori” Green Worn & Wound
Minase Sep 20, 2023

Minase and Fratello are Back with a New Version of the M-3, this Time in “Nori” Green

Our friends at Fratello have announced their latest limited edition collaboration, a follow up to last year’s release with Minase. That watch, the M-3 “Very Peri,” marked the first time Minase’s cushion shaped case was available outside of Japan. This year’s version borrows the same case profile, but lands on a very different dial execution. The Fratello x Minase M-3 “Nori” has a subtle green dial inspired by Japanese seaweed, making for a toned down and perhaps more under-the-radar version of the M-3 than last year’s brightly colored purple variant.  Minase, for the uninitiated, is a Japanese brand that produces about 500 pieces per year in the Akita Prefecture. They incorporate many traditional Japanese craft elements in their watchmaking, with a focus on hand-made components, but also incorporate plenty of modern manufacturing techniques. If you’ve handled any of their watches (we’ve been happy to have them at several recent Windup Watch Fairs, and they’ll be joining us once again in NYC next month), you know that they machined and finished immaculately. Zach wrote about Minase’s Divido here, which has an extremely complex case and bracelet construction, paired with a dial that’s made with a very traditional Japanese lacquering technique.   The M-3 has a simpler case, but it’s machined and finished to the same high standard as Minase’s more complex designs. The cushion style case measures 39mm in diameter, 46mm lug-to-lug, and is just 10...

Diving Lake Michigan with Jason Heaton and the New Benrus Ultra-Deep Worn & Wound
Sep 20, 2023

Diving Lake Michigan with Jason Heaton and the New Benrus Ultra-Deep

Within sight of the Chicago skyline, I stepped off the gunwale of the 47-foot Seaquest II into Lake Michigan and deflated my buoyancy wing. We’d left the dock in Hammond, Indiana under a moody sky and spitting rain, but after an hour’s cruise, the clouds parted and the lake’s surface flattened out. The sun cast filtered shafts of “God light” onto the skyscrapers in the distance, the last view I saw before descending 50 feet into the blue-green depths. I followed the yellow mooring line down to where it was tied in to an auger on the lake bed. And then, there it was: a ship’s anchor, standing proud of the mud. It was coated with algae and quogga mussels but was unmistakable, looking like the archetypal sailor’s tattoo, with a five-foot shank and one fluke pointing to the surface it hadn’t seen in over a century. An intact anchor on a shipwreck is a thrill for any diver and if I wasn’t already chilled from the 59-degree water I’d have gotten goosebumps. To mark the moment, I looked down at my left wrist. The Benrus Ultra-Deep diving watch nestled under the cuff of my thick glove read 9:14. The Great Lakes, a chain of five huge inland seas that hold over 20% of the world’s freshwater, have provided a connected passage for cargo and passenger vessels since the early 19th century. Ships have carried coal, iron ore, lumber and grain between the American states and Canadian provinces that border the lakes, as well as beyond to Europe through the St. Lawrence...

Seiko Remembers Bruce Lee with the Seiko 5 Sports SPRK39 SJX Watches
Seiko Remembers Bruce Lee Sep 20, 2023

Seiko Remembers Bruce Lee with the Seiko 5 Sports SPRK39

Twenty-twenty-three marks the 50th anniversary of the passing of the Hong Kong-American martial artist, actor, and cultural icon who tragically died at the age of 32. In honour of Bruce Lee’s legacy, Seiko has launched the Seiko 5 Sports Bruce Lee Limited Edition SPRK39, an affordable sports watch typical of Seiko but with an unusual all-black livery featuring subtle gold accents. Based on its entry-level sports watch, the edition’s launch also coincides with the 55th anniversary of the original Seiko 5 Sports. Retaining the same case and design as the regular production model, this limited edition incorporates Asian themes in its design as a homage to the iconic actor, including a dragon on the dial in a reference to Bruce Lee’s name. Initial thoughts It is perhaps long overdue that Seiko creates a timepiece to commemorate Bruce Lee, who was photographed on several occasions wearing a Seiko 5. The use of traditional Chinese elements are not groundbreaking, and might have even been kitschy, but fortunately an all-black look prevents this from resembling a gaudy souvenir. While this watch does evoke a certain nostalgia, it doesn’t quite have the vintage styling of the Seiko 5 model that Lee himself wore. I would have preferred an edition based the design on that or even other vintage models from the period. That would, however, probably result in a pricier watch that is a vintage remake. Priced at US$495, the Bruce Lee edition is US$135 more expensive than the stand...

Rolex Submariner Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Sep 19, 2023

Rolex Submariner Guide

Few watches have achieved the worldwide fame and collectibility of the Rolex Submariner, one of the very first purpose-built dive watches and the one that established the formula that so many others still emulate. Nearly every luxury divers’ watch on the market today owes some stylistic debt to the Submariner, which remains to many collectors the gold standard of the category. The Submariner’s association with James Bond, which stems from its being worn by Sean Connery in the iconic movie role, doesn’t hurt its case either. Here’s what you need to know about the Rolex Submariner and why it continues to be an industry trendsetter in the modern day. Origins: The Rolex Oyster Case While most watch historians rightly pinpoint the 1950s as the era that gave rise to the modern, purpose-built diver’s watch, Rolex began paving the way as early as the 1920s. Hans Wilsdorf, who founded Rolex in 1905 and moved its headquarters to Geneva, Switzerland in 1919, was one of the earliest and most prominent proponents of making wristwatches more waterproof. It was a challenge that had plagued watchmakers for years, ever since pocket watches began fading from common usage in favor of the wrist-worn timepieces that gained wide acceptance in the wake of World War I. Wilsdorf’s 1926 invention, the so-called Oyster case, proved to be (no pun intended) a watershed for an evolving industry. Its innovative design combined a threaded, hermetically sealed caseback and a crown that screwe...

Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Return to their Time Eater Concept with a Darker Sequel Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Sep 19, 2023

Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Return to their Time Eater Concept with a Darker Sequel

It’s no surprise that after the successful launch of the Time Eater, the viral collaboration between Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin that launched in April, that the two would attempt a follow up. In fact, not only is it not a surprise, it was expected by anyone who paid close attention to the marketing materials we saw earlier this year, which teased another release to come. Well, like the horror movie franchises that this collaboration sometimes evokes, the sequel has come quickly. The Time Eater II: From Dusk to Dawn, is a pair of watches that use the same basic design as the original Time Eater, but in a darker (literally and figuratively) execution. I don’t know if a “Halloween watch” is actually a thing, but given the aesthetic of the new Time Eater and the season we find ourselves in, it makes a strong case.  Like the first drop, this release sees two different versions of the watch in two different case sizes, released alongside one another. Instead of the silvery white dials of the first pair, here we have black (for the 39mm watch) and anthracite (on the larger 42mm version). Both have bright red minute hands that match the major aesthetic shift on these new Time Eaters: a truly gross bloodshot eye hour register. It’s paired with the same sawtooth seconds register at 6:00, and when everything is put together it certainly gives off a spookier vibe, making the original watches with hints of purple and green seem downright playful by comparison.  The ...

Seiko Adds New Enamel and Urushi Lacquer Dials to their Presage Craftsmanship Series Worn & Wound
Seiko Adds New Enamel Sep 18, 2023

Seiko Adds New Enamel and Urushi Lacquer Dials to their Presage Craftsmanship Series

Seiko has been bringing the heat (quite literally) with sophisticated and labor-intensive dials to its mid-level lines like Presage. Last week we saw a slew of releases celebrating the 110th anniversary of the Laurel, Seiko’s first watch. The headliner was the Presage SPB401 and its enamel dial. Today we see enamel and lacquer make their way to the Presage collection in the form of three new references. The changes don’t stop there, though; there’s more to these watches than new dials. In a break from the current porcelain dials in the Craftsmanship Series, the new SPB403 features a white enamel dial courtesy of Mitsuru Yokasawa and Co. The dial layout on these references has been simplified with thin stick hour markers (as opposed to thin roman numerals). This results in a more versatile watch and allows the color and material to take center stage. In a nice touch, the chapter ring is further subdivided into sixths, corresponding to the movement’s 3Hz beat rate. Of the three, the SPB403 is the most classic-looking and comes on a five link bracelet with Seiko’s super-hard coating. The SPB405 (black dial) and SPB407 (green dial) incorporate the ancient art of lacquering into the Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series. Made from the sap of the Urushi tree (Rhus verniciflua, found primarily in China and Japan), Japanese lacquer is notoriously expensive and highly prized. Master Usshu Tamura and his team at Seiko have developed a method that, unlike enamel, allows the la...

Rado Brings their Ongoing Work with the Foundation Le Corbusier to the True Square Line with Three New Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Rado Brings their Ongoing Work Sep 18, 2023

Rado Brings their Ongoing Work with the Foundation Le Corbusier to the True Square Line with Three New Limited Editions

When two masters in their respective industry collide, something magic is sure to happen. That’s exactly the feeling one gets when looking at Rado, the Master of Materials, and Le Corbusier, the master of design, as the two legacies meld into a release of new references. Adding three new colorways selected from the 63-shade Architectural Polychromy palette to the distinct True Square collection, we’re seeing a heightened look at craftsmanship and design that shows the sum is often greater than its parts. Rado has long had a relationship with the Foundation Le Corbusier for their True Thinline set of watches, but these three new releases from the brand are the first to utilize the sportier design of the True Square silhouette. This design is marked by a high-tech ceramic case coming in at a comfortable and discreet 37 x 43.3 mm, perfect for nearly any wrist size. The real beauty of this watch is the balance of technical precision and everyday use, mixing a Rado caliber R420 quartz movement with high-tech innovative ceramic that Rado has become known for within the industry. For the three colorways themselves, each taken from the Architectural Polychromy, they’re a sleek and subtle scheme that fits perfectly against the backdrop of both Le Corbusier’s and Rado’s Swiss heritage. This collection includes Natural Umber, Iron Grey, and Ivory Black. The use of ceramic perfectly matches the tonal qualities of these three references, as Rado has perfected color blending w...

Cartier Reissues the First Tank Cintrée in Platinum SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre JLC calibre inside Initial Sep 18, 2023

Cartier Reissues the First Tank Cintrée in Platinum

Following last year’s Pebble wristwatch, the latest instalment of the Les Rééditions de Cartier series of historical remakes is Tank Cintrée Platinum. Its launch marks the 100th anniversary of the first Tank Cintrée in platinum that debuted two years after the Tank Cintrée, which was in yellow gold.  Notably, the new platinum edition is slimmer than its predecessor in yellow gold launched, standing just 6.03 mm high thanks to a reworked case and ultra-thin Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) calibre inside. Initial thoughts  The recent popularity of Cartier’s classical designs have made reissues like this inevitable. Cartier does them on an annual basis, more or less, which spaces them well enough that each edition remains interesting, even if it is predictable. And in some ways Cartier’s limited editions are more appealing than its special orders, because the limited editions are a known quantity in a fixed form. Like Cartier’s past reissues, the new Tank Cintrée sticks closely to the original design, so much so it is almost indistinguishable from a distance, except for its new-watch sheen. Given the strength of the original design, this is a good thing. Interestingly, this is slimmer than the 2021 reissue in yellow gold. While the thinness is appealing, particularly for a formal-dress watch like this, one wonders if the reduction in thickness was to reduce the weight of precious metal. Besides allowing for a thinner case, the ultra-thin JLC movement is a historical r...

Tudor Unveils the US Navy-Inspired Pelagos FXD Ref. 25717N SJX Watches
Tudor Unveils Sep 14, 2023

Tudor Unveils the US Navy-Inspired Pelagos FXD Ref. 25717N

Tudor’s release on September 14th lived up to the anticipation, particularly for enthusiasts who appreciate vintage-inspired design. The Pelagos FXD ref. 25717N is a variant of the model developed together with the French navy and shares the same specs, including a 42 mm titanium case. But the new FXD “Single Red” pays homage to the brand’s historical affiliation with the US Navy, which turned to Tudor for military-issue timepieces starting in 1950s. Initial thoughts While this may be fairly unsurprising given the nature of Tudor’s catalogue, the new FXD is well executed and ticks all the right boxes for those who love military-inspired tool watches. The no-nonsense black dial with the “single red” marking instantly evokes well-known dive watches of the 1970s. The watch itself is not new. It’s essentially identical to the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” from in 2021, but with black dial and bezel that gives it a more purposeful look. It’s a predictable evolution of the model given Tudor’s emphasis on its historical ties with navies and other professional organisations. Like the original FXD in blue, this has a clean dial that allows the design to be unobstructed. Notably, the designers should be commending for going with pure white Super-Luminova on this, instead of faux-vintage lume that might have looked too affected. However, its designers could have been even more striking by dialling back the text on the dial even more, perhaps having just the ...

Seiko Celebrates 110 Years of the Laurel with Seven New Releases Encompassing the Scope of their Catalog Worn & Wound
Seiko Celebrates 110 Years Sep 13, 2023

Seiko Celebrates 110 Years of the Laurel with Seven New Releases Encompassing the Scope of their Catalog

When Hintaro Hattori set up shop in Tokyo’s Ginza at the age of 21, he would eventually change the watchmaking landscape forever. The business, which initially focused on importing and wholesaling Swiss pieces, would go on to manufacture Japan’s first wristwatch, the Laurel, in 1913. It would also eventually be known as Seiko. Not one to waste an anniversary, Seiko is commemorating 110 years since the Laurel with a flurry of releases up and down the lineup. From Presage to Prospex, here is an overview of the new watches. Seiko Presage Bearing the closest resemblance to the original Laurel, the SPB401 bears the trademark red twelve o’clock numeral and two subdials for the date and power reserve. Its enamel dial comes from the work of the venerable Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team. It will be limited to 1,500 pieces with a retail price of $1,250. The SPB413 features an angular case not too unlike the King Seiko line and showcases a “hemp leaf” pattern on the dial. A red mark along the rehaut at twelve is its nod to the Laurel. It’s the most modern of the new releases but perhaps is also one of the most wearable. It is limited to 2,000 pieces with a retail price of $1,050. The least limited of the new Presage releases (3,500 pieces) is the SSK015, a new variation on the existing SSK GMT watches. It pays homage to the Laurel with its four blue hands and red triangle at twelve and will set you back $625. Seiko Prospex Sure to be a fan favorite, the SPB409 Alpinist GMT...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar “Darth” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 13, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar “Darth”

Since its debut in 2021, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has been the brand’s flagship pure-play perpetual calendar that combines the trademark Lange 1 design with a sophisticated movement, while doing away with the tourbillon of its bigger brother. The model now gets a new of platinum with a black dial, a combination nicknamed “Darth”, and remains powered by the L021.3. Initial thoughts The Lange 1 perpetual calendar has consistently impressed with its thoughtful design. The asymmetrical yet streamlined dial effortlessly communicates essential information. And because doesn’t have the tourbillon of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, it is relatively affordable, at least as such things go. As for the new version, it does look good. Lange watches tend to look good with white metal cases and black dials, think Datograph or Zeitwerk, and this is no exception. This is especially considering the model was available only with light coloured dials like salmon or grey.  The rest of the watch remains unchanged, so it has all the pros (and cons) of the earlier iterations. While the movement is impressively executed, it is a large watch, particularly since it only has the calendar complication. At almost 42 mm wide and just over 12 mm high, it has dimensions comparable to a sports chronograph. That said, most complicated Lange watches feel over-engineered, so this is typical Lange in many ways. “Darth” The new model retains the dial layout that i...

Tissot PRX Watches: The Ultimate Guide to the Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Sep 12, 2023

Tissot PRX Watches: The Ultimate Guide to the Collection

The Tissot PRX collection is one of the Swiss brand’s major success stories of the past decade despite its relatively recent introduction to the market. Engaging the 21st-Century watch aficionado zeitgeist with its crowd-pleasing combination of classical sport-luxury design, intriguing colorways, and accessible price points, the Tissot PRX has grown from a handful of models to become a modern pillar of the 170-year-old brand’s sprawling and diverse portfolio. Here’s a rundown of the Tissot PRX collection, with a spotlight on several of its most noteworthy models.  The Original: 1978 The original Tissot PRX debuted in 1978, and like many watches from that era, it was powered by a quartz movement. The watch was distinguished by its flat, barrel-shaped, multi-faceted case, which integrated smoothly into a flexible, articulated steel bracelet; it took its three-initial model name from its attributes: the “P” and “R” stand for “precise” and “robust,”respectively, and the “X” is actually a Roman numeral “10” depicting the model’s 10 atmospheres (aka 100 meters) of water resistance. The overall aesthetic was one that today’s watch historians will readily recognize, hearkening back to the groundbreaking design of a much pricier watch that had debuted several years earlier, in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The latter had, in fact, exerted influence on a number of so-called “sport-luxury” timepieces that debuted in the Decade of Disco,...

Exhibition: A.-L. Breguet and England at The Science Museum, London SJX Watches
Breguet Sep 12, 2023

Exhibition: A.-L. Breguet and England at The Science Museum, London

Abraham-Louis Breguet: The English Connection opens today at the Clockmakers Museum, part of The Science Museum in South Kensington, displaying an array of vintage Breguet clocks that illustrate the master watchmaker’s connection to the United Kingdom. Marking the 200th anniversary of Breguet’s death, the display cases are full of pieces brought together from private and public collections, with some pieces being shown in a museum setting for the very first time.  The poster for the exhibition. Image – The Clockmakers’ Museum. The headline exhibit is the four-minute tourbillon, no. 1297, made for King George III that sold at Sotheby’s in 2020 for £1.6 million (roughly $2 million) that many thought would never be seen in the country again after it crossed the auction block. However, thanks to the efforts of those at the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers and the Clockmaking Museum, it will be on display for an entire year alongside other rarely seen creations from Breguet.  The story behind this watch is worth digging into a bit, as it was bought at a time when England and France were at war with each other and so there was a ban on French goods entering the country. This is why you won’t see the name Breguet anywhere visible on the watch. Instead you have the name of the retailer the King went through inscribed in large lettering on the movement bridge. But if you pay close attention, Breguet signed his name in small letters on the tourbillon carriage, in the...

Review: the Circula DiveSport Titanium Worn & Wound
Laco Sep 11, 2023

Review: the Circula DiveSport Titanium

Roughly 20 years ago, I was tasked by my editor and Baume & Mercier to review the latter’s latest, toughest tool watch. I know what you are thinking. Baume & Mercier and the words “tool watch” do not go together. Well, for a brief period, the appropriately named Capeland XXL was just that. This was a large titanium dive watch, with a striking yellow patterned dial, with oversized hands and a helium escape valve. It was such a departure from their norm and boy, was it a super cool watch.  Fast forward to today and I have another super cool titanium, yellow dialed diver to review, the Circula DiveSport. Circula has been around since 1955, founded by the current owner’s grandfather Heinz Huber. Based in Pforzheim, Circula shares a hometown with Aristo, Laco and Stowa, as well as renowned case maker Fricker GmbH. Circula has been rejuvenated as of late, with Cornelius Huber now at the helm. Their previous models leaned heavily on classical designs from yesteryear and just like the Capeland XXL, the new DiveSport is a departure from the norm. From the design to the materials, this one is fully modern and has its sights on the future.  The DiveSport’s multi-faceted grade 2 titanium case measures 42mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug length of only 48.5mm and it is 13.4mm slim (+0.5mm with the crystal). Why did he say slim, you may be asking, as 13.4mm does not sound that thin. It is if you consider the 500m depth rating! Also, when you combine the 133g weight (with 2 l...

Blancpain and Swatch Team Up on the $400 Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms SJX Watches
Blancpain Sep 7, 2023

Blancpain and Swatch Team Up on the $400 Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms

In a long expected move after the success of the MoonSwatch, Swatch with its sister brand Blancpain for another colourful wristwatch modelled on a historical timepiece. The Swatch x Blancpain Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms pays homage to Blancpain’s iconic dive watch of the same name, which celebrates its 70th anniversary this year. The Scuba Fifty Fathoms collection consists of five watches in different colours, each representing one of the five oceans of the world. Inside the plastic-ceramic composite case is a Sistem51 automatic movement, a nod to Blancpain’s historical motto of “Since 1735 there has never been a quartz Blancpain watch”. Priced at US$400, it will be available at select Swatch boutiques starting September 9, 2023.  The movement of each is decorated to match the model Initial thoughts On its face, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms is a charming reinterpretation of Blancpain’s signature dive watch, making a historical model more accessible. Given the niche nature of the vintage original, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms will certainly not inspire the same fanatical enthusiasm as the MoonSwatch, but it will introduces Blancpain’s distinctive sports watch to a wider range of clients. Conversely, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms might not bring much advantage to Blancpain, a brand that has lost market share in its segment of luxury mechanical watches for a variety of reasons, none of which are alleviated by this launch. Furthermore, the new Swatch collaboration raises ques...

Profile: Hannelore Lass, Watchmaker and Engraver SJX Watches
Sinn Sep 5, 2023

Profile: Hannelore Lass, Watchmaker and Engraver

German-born Hannelore Lass has mastered the art of engraving, but she is also a trained watchmaker. Together with her husband, independent watchmaker Christian Lass, they live with their two children on the idyllic Danish island of Fyn, a two hour’s drive west of Copenhagen. It is there that they created the 30CP, the time-only wristwatch that marked the debut of the Christian Lass brand. Hannelore’s career meandered through European watchmaking before landing her on Fyn. Having started her career at Sinn, the German brand best known for its “tool” watches, she would go on to become the in-house engraver for Vianney Halter, followed by a stint as a freelancer working with BNB Concept, before moving to Denmark with her husband to establish his eponymous brand. The burin as a watchmaking tool Crafts that concern the smallest of parts have always had a particular impact on Hannelore; the interaction of the hands with the very small was something that gave her extreme pleasure. So having finished high school, Hannelore considered watchmaking as a possible career. Living near Frankfurt at the time, she visit the Sinn, which is located in the city. It was during this visit that Hannelore experienced one of the defining moments of her life. “During the tour, we were shown a gigantic cupboard brimming with small boxes full of minuscule parts,” says Hannelore, “That’s when I knew what I wanted to do!” Image – Hannelore Lass The experience led her to send an app...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces a Pair of New Dial Options for the Polaris Chronograph Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Sep 5, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces a Pair of New Dial Options for the Polaris Chronograph

First launched in the 1960’s, then resurrected in 2018, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris has long been a standard-bearing watch for the luxury Swiss watchmaker. Now, five years on from the relaunch of the Polaris, Jaeger-LeCoultre has reinvisioned the watch in two new ways. Recently, the brand has added two new signature dials to new Polaris Chronograph line-up that not only showcase the artisanal craftsmanship of the house, but also raises the question of when does a sports watch become a piece of art? Each watch in the new collection displays the technical precision that has become synonymous with the brand. The two dials – a rich blue and a sporty gray – are made from applying lacquer to the dial, giving these timepieces a richness that nicely juxtaposes the 42mm steel case. The lacquered finish works as a backdrop to a complex dial that packs a punch, including a well-balanced set of subdials at 3 o’clock (featuring a 30-minute timer) and a running seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The entire dial is encompassed in an outer ring that is marked with the tachymeter scale while both variants are accented in a pleasantly contrasting orange.  On the reverse of the watch is a sapphire crystal caseback which reveals the automatic Calibre 761 movement, which houses a generous 65-hour power reserve. The final touches of this movement include blued screws and Côtes de Genève decoration on the baseplate as well as on the signature open-worked winding rotor bearing the ‘JL...