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Pulsometer Scale

Chronograph scale reading heart rate in BPM after counting 15 or 30 pulse beats. The 1920s-60s doctor\'s watch standard.

Auction Report: Only Watch 2021 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet who bid enthusiastically Nov 8, 2021

Auction Report: Only Watch 2021

Only Watch 2021 was a landmark for the biennial charity auction in both scale and value. Organised by Christie’s, the ninth edition of Only Watch just took place in Geneva, with 53 timepieces having been sold for CHF30 million, or about US$32.8 million. Held for the first time in Palexpo, the sprawling convention centre near Geneva’s airport, Only Watch 2021 saw a turnout of over 850 people inside the cavernous room, a massive uptick in attendance compared to the one or two hundred in past years. People and faces Practically everyone who is someone in Swiss watchmaking turned up, including Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe, Frederic Arnault of TAG Heuer, Tudor chief executive Eric Pirson, as well as independent watchmakers like Kari Voutilainen and Francois-Paul Journe. Even Aurel Bacs and Alex Ghotbi of rival auction house Phillips were spotted seated in the room. Some of the boldface names were also bidding on lots in the auction, including Francois-Henri Bennahmias of Audemars Piguet who bid enthusiastically on the Chanel J12 pair and Jean Arnault of Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps who was after a creation by an independent watchmaker. While there were watch collectors from around the world present – including a contingent from Dubai Watch Club – there were fewer Asian bidders in the room compared to past years, presumably because of the travel restrictions still in place in most Asian countries. That said, many of the crucial bidders from Asia did turn up, inc...

Hands-On: With The L.U.C 1937 Classic Pink Gold, An Elegant In-House Chronometer From Chopard (Live Pics & Pricing) Hodinkee
Chopard Sep 29, 2021

Hands-On: With The L.U.C 1937 Classic Pink Gold, An Elegant In-House Chronometer From Chopard (Live Pics & Pricing)

Chopard's L.U.C collection contains a number of very interesting watches that range from simple time-only pieces to perpetual calendars and tourbillons (and even a cool table clock). At the more accessible end of the scale, we have the L.U.C 1937 Classic, a three-hand watch with a discrete date window and an in-house, chronometer-certified movement. That this movement comes in an elegant, well-finished pink gold package makes it all the more appealing.

VIDEO: IWC CEO left gobsmacked by visit to the Mercedes F1 team garage Time+Tide
IWC CEO left gobsmacked Aug 16, 2021

VIDEO: IWC CEO left gobsmacked by visit to the Mercedes F1 team garage

Christoph Grainger-Herr is not only the IWC CEO, but also one of the most passionate folks in the watch industry. In a Clubhouse room recently he spoke to me about one of his areas of collecting that isn’t horological focused: Hot Wheels cars. Yep, Chris loves his 1:64 scale model cars, enough to extend the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: IWC CEO left gobsmacked by visit to the Mercedes F1 team garage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A month on the wrist with the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – an integrated bracelet wristwatch for the people Time+Tide
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – Jul 6, 2021

A month on the wrist with the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – an integrated bracelet wristwatch for the people

The relationship between the Swatch Group and Tissot brings a host of benefits to the table. As the powerful parent company, the Swatch Group can deliver enviable command over economies of scale and a direct line to movement manufacturing with ETA. Being able to tap into such mighty resources enables Tissot to react quickly to … ContinuedThe post A month on the wrist with the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – an integrated bracelet wristwatch for the people appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#Kixntix: The casual luxury of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Titanium GMT Chronograph with Louis Vuitton high tops Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton high tops Within seven May 30, 2021

#Kixntix: The casual luxury of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Titanium GMT Chronograph with Louis Vuitton high tops

Within seven years of its debut in 2017, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo is already a modern-day classic, its slender and aggressively architectural shape transforming the finesse of the O.G Octo from 2012. Every Octo Finissimo with its paper-thin movement is a feat of engineering, akin to the art of building a scale model galleon in … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: The casual luxury of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Titanium GMT Chronograph with Louis Vuitton high tops appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Beyond the rave: the Bulgari Aluminium Steve Aoki is the latest watch inspired by dance music alongside Zenith & Chanel Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium Steve Aoki May 19, 2021

Beyond the rave: the Bulgari Aluminium Steve Aoki is the latest watch inspired by dance music alongside Zenith & Chanel

Different professions have their own specific demands when it comes to the attributes of a watch. A professional diver, for example, needs a hydrogen-release valve, while a doctor could benefit from a pulsometer. But what about a DJ? This question popped up last year when I was talking to Carl Cox, the British superstar DJ … ContinuedThe post Beyond the rave: the Bulgari Aluminium Steve Aoki is the latest watch inspired by dance music alongside Zenith & Chanel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

From IWC to TAG Heuer – 10 of the best watches under 40mm from our buying guide (Part II) Time+Tide
TAG Heuer 10 Mar 6, 2021

From IWC to TAG Heuer – 10 of the best watches under 40mm from our buying guide (Part II)

In the name of my fellow tiny wristers, or just those who prefer watches closer to classic proportions, I’ve assembled a list of 10 of the best watches under 40mm listed in our NOW buying guide. For a long time the trend has been to scale watches up in size, with releases typically hovering above … ContinuedThe post From IWC to TAG Heuer – 10 of the best watches under 40mm from our buying guide (Part II) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 vintage finds you can pick up on eBay right now Time+Tide
Jan 13, 2021

5 vintage finds you can pick up on eBay right now

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’re likely to sit somewhere on the scale of watch addiction. From unrelenting curiosity to full-blown collecting mania, you should know that you aren’t alone in your unquenchable thirst for that next addition to the collection. And what better way to start the year than by getting a … ContinuedThe post 5 vintage finds you can pick up on eBay right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Mr. Watchfinder explains the story behind the thinnest watch ever made Time+Tide
Piaget achieved Dec 24, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Mr. Watchfinder explains the story behind the thinnest watch ever made

This year, Piaget achieved an unfathomable feat in watchmaking – a production timepiece only 2mm thick! Not surprisingly, given the scale of this achievement, the composition of the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept is extremely complex. Its super-thin mechanism and harmony between case and movement will astound even the most jaded collectors and it will likely … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Mr. Watchfinder explains the story behind the thinnest watch ever made appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Singapore Retailer Cortina Watch Acquires Rival Sincere SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 17, 2020

Business News: Singapore Retailer Cortina Watch Acquires Rival Sincere

Singapore-based Cortina Holdings has just announced it is buying fellow retailer Sincere Watch for S$84.5 million in cash, confirming rumours that first surfaced in July. A retailer of both Patek Philippe and Rolex – the most important brands for any watch retailer of scale – Cortina is listed on the Singapore stock exchange and one of the largest players in the region, with stores in six countries, including Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, and Taiwan. With the acquisition of privately-held Sincere, Cortina will double its retail network, while clinching Sincere’s crown jewel, the rights to distribute Franck Muller in 12 Asian countries, which accounts for over half of Sincere’s sales. Besides Franck Muller – whose Master Banker Asia Edition is pictured above – Sincere is also a retailer of high-end watchmakers like A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, and Greubel Forsey, all of which Cortina does not have in its stable of brands. That said, it is not uncommon for watch brands to end distribution or retail agreements upon a change in ownership. The expansive Patek Philippe boutique operated by Cortina in Singapore’s ION Orchard mall The deal excludes Sincere’s Hong Kong arm, which will remain with its current owner, Hong Kong businesswoman Pollyanna Chu, whose fortune comes from financial services and gaming. It will be the fourth time Sincere has changed hands since 2007 when it was sold for a record S$530 million to Hong Kong-based Peace Mark. A conglom...

Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2020

Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro

Watchmaking is a game of microns and millimetres. The movements powering wristwatches are effectively a tiny city of gears and levers, that when blown up to a larger scale, become a chronometric Atlantis waiting to be explored and appreciated. One of the first things people notice when looking at a dial of a watch is … ContinuedThe post Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Thinking outside the box with the Rado True Square collection Time+Tide
Rado True Square collection Ceramic Oct 6, 2020

VIDEO: Thinking outside the box with the Rado True Square collection

Ceramic is a notoriously tricky material to work with in watchmaking, with only a handful of brands able to produce the material at scale. One of the few brands that can claim to have mastered it is Rado, who are well known for their brightly coloured and scratch-resistant timepieces. While Rado use the material throughout … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Thinking outside the box with the Rado True Square collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

On Scene: Watches & Wonders Shanghai SJX Watches
Sep 26, 2020

On Scene: Watches & Wonders Shanghai

The second week of September saw one of the few large-scale watch fairs of the year take place by the Huangpu River in Shanghai. With the COVID-19 pandemic forcing the cancellation of the world’s two most important watch fairs, Baselworld and SIHH (as well as the permanent demise of Baselworld), Watches & Wonders Shanghai (W&W;) was staged at the West Bund Art Center. As a watch journalist, I used to fly to Switzerland twice a year for the fairs – SIHH in January followed by Baselworld around March – but this year the event came to my home city for the first time. Did W&W; live up to expectations? How has the event changed as it crossed the world? Green and good to go The difference between W&W; and the traditional Swiss fairs was apparent from the point of entry. Guests and journalists were no longer granted access with pass cards, the norm at the Swiss fairs since I can remember. Instead we received an invite email from the fair’s organiser Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) prior to the event, requiring us to register online for a QR entry code. Security staff at the fair’s entrance scanned every visitor’s QR code, as well as our Suishen Code, a digital pass issued by the city authorities. Both an identification and health pass, the Suishen Code has allowed the government to combat the pandemic with rigorous efficiency; every city or province in China has its own health code – the primary reason why a watch fair with hundreds of visitors can take place...

Winners & Losers In The Watch World Of 2021 And Beyond: There Will Be Fairs, Jim, But Not As We Knew Them Quill & Pad
Apr 14, 2020

Winners & Losers In The Watch World Of 2021 And Beyond: There Will Be Fairs, Jim, But Not As We Knew Them

The point of the large watch fairs is (or was) the sheer scale of their visitor numbers. In no other venue can brands meet with so many clients, collectors and press, and vice versa. If a large fair is limited in visitor capacity by health restrictions, can it still dominate the launch cycles of big brands? Ian Skellern examines likely winners and losers of the brave new world of exhibitions in 2021.

Quartz, the killer – A history of quartz watches, Part 2 Time+Tide
Apr 8, 2020

Quartz, the killer – A history of quartz watches, Part 2

Editor’s note: This is part 2 of a long read from the second edition of NOW Magazine, which you can pick up here. If you missed Part 1, you can find it right here. The story so far is a space race between America, Switzerland and Japan as they sought to manufacture battery powered quartz watches at scale. … ContinuedThe post Quartz, the killer – A history of quartz watches, Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion Gold Crystal SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Feb 10, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion Gold Crystal

As a brand known for oversized and aggressively technical watches, Hublot’s latest creation is unusually delicate and intricate. The Classic Fusion Gold Crystal is an all-black wristwatch with a striking gold-patterned dial that has surprising beauty on a small scale. Reminiscent of fossilised plants, the motif on the dial is actually solid gold, formed by vaporising the precious metal, revisiting an idea Hublot first mooted in 2017 with the experimental Gold Crystal watch that relied on gold from rivers around Geneva. According to Hublot, the technique to create the decoration was developed in-house and starts with a tiny amount of pure, 24-carat gold. The metal is heated to its melting point, and then heated some more, creating a vapour-like stream of gold. The tiny gold particles are then channelled to a cold metal plate, causing them to cool instantaneously, which form what Hublot terms “gold crystals”. These tiny pieces of gold are them sorted for size and shape, with only 20% suited for use on a watch dial, according to Hublot. The resulting pieces are then arranged by hand on a black dial, which is then covered with a transparent lacquer – in a vacuum so as to prevent bubbles forming – and then baked in an oven to set the lacquer. The rest of the watch is basically a monochromatic canvas for the gold crystal decor. It’s a stock Classic Fusion in black ceramic – the case, bezel, and back are black ceramic, while the screws are black-coated titanium. Ava...

Business News: Cartier Launches 8-Year Warranty for Watches SJX Watches
Cartier Launches 8-Year Warranty Nov 18, 2019

Business News: Cartier Launches 8-Year Warranty for Watches

Cartier has just announced Cartier Care, an online platform to enhance its client service, most notably with the debut of an extended, eight-year warranty for all watches. Cartier Care was rolled out quietly last year on a small scale when it was offered only to buyers of the new Santos de Cartier wristwatch, but is now offered to all clients. The programme includes a complimentary battery swap that replaces existing batteries with a new generation of extended-life batteries, as well as services like bracelet sizing, all of which can be arranged online. Additionally, Cartier is working on growing the range of services to include personalisation of various items, ranging from engraving on watch case backs to the embossing of initials on jewel boxes. But most significant is the extended warranty, which started on November 12, 2019. In order to received an extended warranty, watch owners have to register on the Cartier Care website. All watches that are still under the original warranty of two years are eligible for a warranty of up to eight years in total. Specifically, it means the warranty extension is an additional six years, on top of the original two. To register and find out more, visit Cartier Care.  

Seiko Marks 50 Years of the Watch that Started the Quartz Crisis SJX Watches
Citizen introduced Oct 31, 2019

Seiko Marks 50 Years of the Watch that Started the Quartz Crisis

Seiko changed watchmaking when it introduced the Quartz Astron in December 1969. Though it cost as much as a small car, it was the first commercially available quartz watch. Technology and economies of scale would rapidly reduce the cost of the quartz watch, enough that by the late 1970s the Swiss watch industry was in full blown meltdown – the Quartz Crisis. To mark the 50th anniversary of that landmark watch, Seiko has just introduced the 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. Though powered by a latest generation, solar-powered and GPS-enabled quartz movement, the Astron anniversary edition is visually a remake of the original – and it still costs as much as a small car, or about US$35,000. Notably, the Astron anniversary comes a couple months after Citizen introduced its own an ultra-high end quartz watch, also with a solid gold case, but with a different approach to technology. The case of the Astron anniversary is 18k yellow gold and cushion-shaped like the original, but slightly larger at 40.9mm in diameter. The top surface of the case is “hand carved” with a fine, grain-like motif echoing the textured finish of the vintage Quartz Astron. And the pattern on the remake is a reference to itself: the carved grain motif is executed in a circular manner around the bezel, a nod to the fact that Seiko has come full circle in reproducing the 1969 design. Similarly, the dial on the new watch has a vertical, linear graining, also inspired by the finish...

Interview: Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Friess on Restoration SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Oct 1, 2019

Interview: Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Friess on Restoration

The epic Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 was massive not just in scale and numbers, but also in the Patek Philippe executives who travelled halfway across the world from Geneva to Singapore just for the event. All of the company’s top management is the town for the event, including president Thierry Stern, chief executive Claude Peny, and commercial director Jerome Pernici. But perhaps the most interesting personality for a hardcore watch geek is Dr Peter Friess, curator of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. A studied man who’s spent his life in museums and cultural institutions, Dr Friess is an art historian by training but also a true horologist. He’s the sort of guy who gets deeply excited over the “new old stock” 369-year old Cremsdorff pocket watch the museum recently acquired, and is familiar with the catgut used in 16th century chain and fusee mechanisms. Dr Peter Friess at the Singapore exhibition, with a portrait of Antoine Norbert de Patek behind him The first ever Patek Philippe wristwatch; importantly, it was not conceived as a bangle with a pendant watch movement bolted on, instead it is a timepiece for the wrist Unsurprisingly, the German native is also a professional watch- and clockmaker. Dr Friess joined the Patek Philippe Musuem as Director and Curator exactly seven years ago. Before that, he was President of the Tech Museum of Innovation in California, as well as a curator at the Smithsonian where he put tog...

Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age SJX Watches
Sep 10, 2019

Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age

Thanks to Instagram, and social media in general, fine watchmaking has become something of a spectator sport. Roger W. Smith’s YouTube channel has over 10,000 subscribers, and though he produces only about a dozen watches per year, his video about polishing the flanks of pinions has been viewed more than 115,000 times. Akrivia, which produces watches on a similar scale, has almost 40,000 followers on Instagram and their videos, which focus on hand finishing techniques, get thousands of views and likes. These numbers suggest a huge appetite among watch enthusiasts for information about movement construction and finishing. Yet while collectors now have unprecedented access to this kind of information, finishing is a highly nuanced topic that doesn’t readily lend itself to the brevity of an Instagram comment. This can make it difficult, especially for new collectors, to understand how finishing fits into the overall value proposition offered by a fine watch. What is finishing and why it matters Finishing is the process by which the components of a watch movement are treated between fabrication and final assembly. At lower price points, finishing is done by machine. At higher price points, it is often applied by hand. The results of good hand finishing are unmistakable, often cited as the main reason for drastic price differences between watches. I asked Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi about the value of hand finishing, and he replied, “Let’s face facts – the differe...

The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers? Time+Tide
Doxa Chronograph – as good Aug 11, 2019

The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers?

Editor’s note: Everyone knows Doxa make a great dive watch, but not as many people know they also produced excellent chronographs in the 1940s and ’50s. This is the story of one of those watches, a black dial Doxa chronograph with a spiral telemeter scale, worth significantly more than the €1200 Paul originally laid down … ContinuedThe post The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.