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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

The Best Large Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 15, 2025

The Best Large Watches

There was a time when larger watches were just about everywhere but the last decade or two have seen a big swing towards smaller case sizes. In fact, we would go so far as to say that a majority of watch enthusiasts I know claim to top out at 42mm. Of course, everyone should wear watches that look appropriate on their wrists, but have we gone too far in being reflexively conservative about case size? Well, we took this opportunity to ask our editorial team to pick their favorites and the results actually paint a fairly good outlook for those of you with big wrists and/or big personalities. Let’s take look at our editors’ picks for favorite large watch over 44mm. [toc-section heading="Rolex Deepsea"] The Rolex Deepsea Ref. 136668LB in solid 18k yellow gold is a big watch in size, heft, and vibes. Measuring 44mm wide and 17.7mm thick and weighing in at 322g (about 70% of a pound), this solid gold Rolex isn’t just flashy but has 3,900 m of water resistance. Rolex was thoughtful about this Deepsea as they adapted the Ringlock compression ring in blue Cerachrom to match the bezel, a touch that goes a very long way in creating that very cool solid blue face against the yellow gold case. Another worthy touch here is the RLX Titanium case back which evoked 2024’s “Harmony of Contrasts” theme pretty perfectly with yellow gold, titanium, and ceramic coming together to create one big, beautiful watch with a $59,700 price tag to match. – Bilal Khan [quote-media quote=" A...

The ABCs of Time – How Are Mechanical Watches Wound? A Comprehensive Guide to Automatic and Manual Movements Monochrome
Grand Seiko s Spring Drive or Nov 15, 2025

The ABCs of Time – How Are Mechanical Watches Wound? A Comprehensive Guide to Automatic and Manual Movements

There are basically two types of watch movements – mechanical and quartz. The latter is powered by a battery or a combination of solar and rechargeable cells, while the former is powered by one or sometimes multiple mainsprings with no electrical input. There are also grey areas like Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive or Accutron’s Electrostatic […]

Introducing: The Nomos Tangente Neomatik In Solid 18K Gold Fratello
Nomos Tangente Neomatik Nov 15, 2025

Introducing: The Nomos Tangente Neomatik In Solid 18K Gold

Let’s be honest: dropping roughly €10k on a gold Nomos is a real commitment. Given the sought-after and intricate timepieces in that price level, a restrained watch with a focus on quality over flair is a power move. But the Tangente Neomatik in gold is one for Bauhaus connoisseurs. The use of gold may up […] Visit Introducing: The Nomos Tangente Neomatik In Solid 18K Gold to read the full article.

GPHG 2025: The Aftermath - LVMH Is A Big Winner, But Breguet Takes Home The “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix Fratello
Breguet Takes Home Nov 15, 2025

GPHG 2025: The Aftermath - LVMH Is A Big Winner, But Breguet Takes Home The “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix

Nothing is as disputed as an award ceremony. The outcome of an opinion will always face another opinion, and people will have opinions on the ceremony itself. You know what they say about people and opinions, so I won’t elaborate on that. What I will elaborate on are some of the winners of the GPHG […] Visit GPHG 2025: The Aftermath - LVMH Is A Big Winner, But Breguet Takes Home The “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix to read the full article.

Hands-On Review Of The New Zenith DEFY Skyline Tourbillon WatchAdvice
Zenith DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Nov 15, 2025

Hands-On Review Of The New Zenith DEFY Skyline Tourbillon

A tourbillon with attitude and a dial that refuses to be ignored. Zenith takes the DEFY Skyline to a whole new level with this rose-gold powerhouse. Bold, modern, and seriously impressive on the wrist! What We Love The combination of a brick-red dial with 18kt rose gold is the perfect combination. Rich, warm, and instantly eye-catching. High-frequency movement and a flying tourbillon is an extremely rare combination that Zenith has executed with some serious technical finesse. From the mirror-polished chamfers to the brushed facets and the rose-gold rotor, everything feels intentional, premium, and beautifully executed. What We Don’t Limited versatility when on the full-gold bracelet. It pushes the watch firmly into “special occasion” territory. A premium model with stunning looks and highly technical movement, the price, however, might put the watch out of reach for many. While the rotor and caseback finishing are gorgeous, much of the movement is still closed off, and some collectors may wish for a more open view. Overall Rating: 9.1/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 Zenith has long stood as a brand that has valued itself on precision and bold mechanical innovation, all the way from its roots back in Le Locle in 1865. This has become apparent even more with the invention of the El Primero movement, cementing the brand’s position as one of the leaders of high-beat performance. In the modern era of watchmaking, Zenith...

Hands-on – Up Close With The Manteio Zeus, The First Watch By Self-Taught Watchmaker Alex Goetschi Monochrome
Nov 14, 2025

Hands-on – Up Close With The Manteio Zeus, The First Watch By Self-Taught Watchmaker Alex Goetschi

As we (digitally) scour the globe to bring you some of the most special and unique independent watchmaking projects, we don’t always have the chance to see the watches ourselves. One such opportunity to go hands-on with something intriguing, however, presented itself during Geneva Watch Days, where we met with Alex Goetschi. As a self-taught […]

The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Gets a Wild Lume Treatment with the New Lumiere Edition Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Gets Nov 14, 2025

The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Gets a Wild Lume Treatment with the New Lumiere Edition

The Bel Canto, in its relatively short history, has proven to be a surprisingly versatile watch in the way it can wear different colors and accents. That’s a little surprising when you consider the fixed nature of the exposed chiming mechanism and the way this elements dominates the look of the watch. But color and especially texture can take the Bel Canto completely different directions, conjuring both contemporary “indie” aesthetics as well as something much more classical. The latest version of Christopher Ward’s C1 Bel Canto now dons the “Lumiere” designation that we first saw a year ago in the C60 Trident. Lume was a big part of the story with that C60 Trident, but it wasn’t the whole story as it is with the new Bel Canto, which here sees its most radical reinvention to date.  Obviously, this is one for the folks who are never without a high powered flashlight in their EDC. The C1 Bel Canto Lumiere is the most exotic interpretation of the platform yet. It’s built around a platine with a sunray pattern that is intricately coated with two shades of luminescent material. This effectively lights the “dial” of the watch from behind, and below the chiming mechanism. The time-telling ring is now a solid circle of high powered Globolight lume, where the current time is read with lume tipped hands. There are no numerals or indices on this Globolight ring, and I’m sure some will balk at the fact that we now just have an approximation of the time to refere...

Fratello On Air: The Best Modern Watches Are Still Five-Digit Rolex Fratello
Rolex Welcome back Nov 14, 2025

Fratello On Air: The Best Modern Watches Are Still Five-Digit Rolex

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we chat about the legendary five-digit Rolex era and how it’s probably the greatest collection of modern watches. We discuss why and mention some of our favorite models. Enjoy the show! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Best Modern Watches Are Still Five-Digit Rolex to read the full article.

Breaking News – The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Wins the GPHG 2025 Aiguille d’Or (And All Prize Winners) Monochrome
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Wins Nov 13, 2025

Breaking News – The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Wins the GPHG 2025 Aiguille d’Or (And All Prize Winners)

The 2025 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève has just unveiled the grand winner of this year’s awards ceremony, and the winner is a watch with a lot of sense. Often regarded as the Oscars of Watchmaking, the GPHG stands for a celebration of all things surrounding watchmaking. The jury has narrowed down […]

Lights Out: Christopher Ward Illuminates the Bel Canto Lumière SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Illuminates Nov 13, 2025

Lights Out: Christopher Ward Illuminates the Bel Canto Lumière

The Christopher Ward Bel Canto Lumière builds on the success of the original Bel Canto, which earned praise for being one of the most accessible chiming watches on the market. Its open-worked hour striker module remains the star of the show, combining a tidy architectural layout with a distinctive acoustic signature that sets it apart from anything else in its price segment. The Lumière keeps that mechanical drama intact but takes a futuristic turn with a smoked sapphire dial, luminous blue-green chapter ring, and a matching rubber strap that glows in the dark. The new execution gives the watch a distinctly modern, almost Tron-like character, yet it remains faithful to the core idea that made the Bel Canto a hit: offering a well finished, technically interesting hour striker at a reasonable price. Initial thoughts The Bel Canto made waves upon its release for being a visually dynamic hour striker at a price well below the norm for this complication. Not only cost effective, the hour striker module is neatly designed and well organised on the dial. In this respect, the Bel Canto exceeded previous attempts at making this complication affordable. In other words, it looks as good as it sounds. The last time we saw new dials for the Bel Canto, the brand went the traditional route with laser-etched guilloché and Roman numerals. This time, the Christopher Ward (CW) is going the other way, with a futuristic luminous treatment that extends to the rubber strap, encircling the wr...

Straum and The Real Time Show Podcast Collaborate on the Jan Mayen Titanium “Stormy Seas” Worn & Wound
Nov 13, 2025

Straum and The Real Time Show Podcast Collaborate on the Jan Mayen Titanium “Stormy Seas”

Straum has teamed up with The Real Time Show, the watch podcast founded by Alon Ben Joseph and Rob Nudds back in 2022, on a new limited edition version of the brand’s popular Jan Mayen sports watch. The new Straum x TRTS Jan Mayen Titanium Stormy Seas complements other editions of the watch well in that it fits in nicely with Straum’s dedication to exploration and adventure, something the brand founders spoke about at length on our own podcast last year. The new dial variant seen here was inspired directly by an experience Rob had during the 2022 Straum Explorers Club expedition to Jan Mayen, a Norwegian volcanic island that is key to the brand’s story and the genesis for much of its design direction. The dark blue tone is meant to evoke, as the name suggests, a stormy sea. Using blue to represent the ocean on a sports watch is of course not a new concept. If anything, it’s been done to the point where it’s tough to see a blue dial and think of anything but the ocean. Usually, however, it’s done in the service of aspiration. This is an intimidating, ominous blue that would have most level headed people backing away from the ocean and heading to the shore. It communicates something about the brand that Straum would choose to embrace this particular vision of adventure.  The deeply textured dial is complemented by a bright orange seconds hand, a color taken from immersion survival suits used in emergencies at sea. Applied and lume filled hour markers circle the ...

Lighting Up The Room With The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Lumière Fratello
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Lumière Nov 13, 2025

Lighting Up The Room With The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Lumière

It’s time for a confession: I have never been smitten with the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto. While I greatly respect the watch’s impressive technical prowess and commercial success, for me, it’s more a question of style. I much prefer Christopher Ward’s modern tool watches to the traditionally styled Bel Canto. But, as if the […] Visit Lighting Up The Room With The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Lumière to read the full article.

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Armillary Tourbillon “Myth Nov 13, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades”

Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary Les Cabinotiers offerings include a variation on a theme with the Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades”. Having been introduced several years ago, the Armillary Tourbillon is a double-axis regulator with a bi-retrograde time display. This unique iteration is dressed entirely in yellow gold, and intricately hand engraved across all of the case surfaces. Initial thoughts The Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades” channels the same celestial inspiration found on the other 270th anniversary watches into mythological storytelling, blending the brand’s signature double-axis tourbillon with sculptural engraving. Still inspired by the stars, this unique piece takes its theme from the Greek myth of the Pleiades - seven sisters transformed into stars who have guided sailors for millennia. The watch is as much about artistic expression as it is about mechanics. The heavily open-worked dial exposes much of the movement beneath, showcasing the double retrograde system for the hours and minutes. The champagne-toned bridges share the same warm hue as the Cosmica Duo, while the finishing throughout is of the highest standard. The cal. 1990 inside remains as appealing as ever, with skeletonised snail cams and beautiful swirling levers for the retrograde works, all tightly packed on the right side of the dial. The blued hands point to a numbered half-circle sector, which is useful since reading the time on this “halved” fo...

First Look – Nomos Goes Gold, With Precious Editions of the Tangente Neomatik and Ludwig Monochrome
Nomos Goes Gold Nov 13, 2025

First Look – Nomos Goes Gold, With Precious Editions of the Tangente Neomatik and Ludwig

When you think about Nomos, besides the cool designs and youthful take on classic German watchmaking from Glashütte, you often picture a nice, relatively attainable watch in stainless steel. There are, of course, several higher-end models in the collection, such as the Lux and Lambda, and sometimes more luxurious special editions in gold, as recently […]