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Baume & Mercier Watches: A Complete History and Guide to the Collectio Teddy Baldassarre
Baume & Mercier Aug 31, 2022

Baume & Mercier Watches: A Complete History and Guide to the Collectio

Baume & Mercier is a watch brand that prides itself in its pursuit of classical watchmaking mixed with timelessly elegant style and in offering its timepieces at a price point that defines "affordable luxury." If you're new to Baume & Mercier watches, there's likely a lot about this nearly two-century-old watchmaker that you don't know. Here we explore the history and watchmaking milestones of Baume & Mercier, from its origins in 1830 to today.  1830: The Brothers Baume Baume & Mercier is the sixth-oldest watchmaker* currently in operation, having begun its existence in 1830, founded by Louis-Victor Baume and his brother Pierre-Joseph Celestine Baume. In the beginning, the company, at the time known as “Frères Baume" (“Baume Brothers”), sold its pocket watches out of a shop in the Swiss Jura village of Les Bois. By the 1850s, Frères Baume had built its business, and its reputation for quality watchmaking, enough to set up a branch in London, a major market and an important center for international expansion - first throughout the United Kingdom, then into India, Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, and other nations that at the time were part of the British Empire.  The watches the Baume brothers produced toward the end of the 19th Century included high complications like chronographs, calendars, tourbillons, and minute repeaters. They were also renowned for their precision and accuracy, winning 10 Grand Prix awards and seven gold medals for time measurement ...

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We’ve found a sure-fire way to get a Rolex on your wrist (sort of…) Time+Tide
Rolex Aug 25, 2022

We’ve found a sure-fire way to get a Rolex on your wrist (sort of…)

There’s been much hand-wringing of late about the slow death of traditional men’s formalwear. The writing was already on the sartorial wall in 2019 when, for example, British retailer Marks and Spencer slashed their suit and formalwear ranges by 14 per cent while increasing their leisurewear lines by 12 per cent. And then came COVID-19. During … ContinuedThe post We’ve found a sure-fire way to get a Rolex on your wrist (sort of…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Delma Quattro is a deep-dive special with plenty of reef cred Time+Tide
Aug 25, 2022

The Delma Quattro is a deep-dive special with plenty of reef cred

Delma brings back the Quattro, originally presented in the 1980s and having garnered significant popularity in the US market, now upgraded with modern materials and an automatic movement. But the new Delma Quattro aims to be more than just a run-of-the-mill dive watch, with specs worthy of plenty of reef cred. No-nonsense diver’s layout Round features … ContinuedThe post The Delma Quattro is a deep-dive special with plenty of reef cred appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Could this be the future of the Powermatic 80? Time+Tide
Tissot it can now be Aug 18, 2022

Could this be the future of the Powermatic 80?

If you spend any time reading Time+Tide, or are generally interested in the entry-level luxury end of the market, you would’ve undoubtedly come across Swatch Group’s class centurion – the Powermatic 80. Initially manufactured as an evolution of the ETA 2824, and exclusively for Tissot, it can now be found in virtually every Swatch Group … ContinuedThe post Could this be the future of the Powermatic 80? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus” Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus” Seiko Aug 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus”

Seiko has gone beyond the green and gold to release two watches inspired by Australia’s natural environment that will be limited to the Australasian market. We’ll tackle the first of these now: the Prospex SRPJ35K “Eucalyptus”, but you can read our first impressions of the Prospex SBP347J “Noosa” right here. Both watches are released along … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands On: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe “Cortina Watch” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Aug 5, 2022

Hands On: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe “Cortina Watch”

Created for the 50th anniversary of Cortina Watch, which is also marking the occasion with a special Patek Philippe Calatrava, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary is an elegantly different take on Blancpain’s vintage-inspired dive watch. With a titanium case matched with a bezel and crown in fade-resistant Sedna gold, the Cortina edition dresses up the functional style of the ordinarily no-frills Bathyscaphe. Originally launched in 2013 as the entry-level – and most compact – model in the Fifty Fathoms collection, the Bathyscaphe was previously only available in single materials, making this two-tone version a first. In fact, the Bathyscaphe Cortina the first Blancpain dive watch with a bi-metal case, but it’ll probably not be the last since the combination is appealing. The hands and hour indices are also 18k Sedna gold Initial thoughts The Bathyscaphe is a handsome watch that has good proportions. It doesn’t feel as large as it measures and wears well. And it is especially lightweight in titanium, so it sits easily on the wrist. In its original variants the Bathyscaphe is muted (in either the steel, ceramic, or titanium versions), or expensive and shiny (in Sedna gold). The Cortina edition is a useful variation on the theme that’s still restrained, but with a little bit of shine. The Sedna gold accents work especially well on the watch because of its retro style. They bring to mind vintage dive watches with “gilt” dials. Admit...

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Zodiac Watches: A Comprehensive History and Guide to the Modern Collec Teddy Baldassarre
Zodiac Aug 3, 2022

Zodiac Watches: A Comprehensive History and Guide to the Modern Collec

If you’ve only recently discovered Zodiac watches - a strong likelihood, as its most well-known and popular model, the Super Sea Wolf, has only been back on the market since 2015 - you may be surprised to learn that Zodiac traces its watchmaking history all the way back to 1882, and that it launched the first Sea Wolf dive watch back in 1953, placing it in the same historical company as other pioneering dive watches debuting in that seminal year, like the much more heralded Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Today the most prestigious and historical watch brand within the huge, Texas-based Fossil Group, Zodiac continues its longstanding tradition of offering distinctively styled Swiss Made watches at accessible prices, with some of the most popular models reviving its milestone designs from the mid-20th Century. THE BEGINNINGS Second-generation watchmaker Ariste Calame founded the workshop that would grow into the Zodiac watch company in 1882 in Le Locle, in Switzerand’s Jura Mountains. The first timepieces Calame made there were originally branded under his own name. In 1895, the founder’s son Louis Ariste Calame, who had also trained as a watchmaker, took over the business at the age of 20 and registered the name “Zodiac” in 1908, applying it to the innovative flat pocket watches, called Zodiac Triumph, which the company began producing in 1924, equipped with the in-house Caliber 1617 (below, via Watchuseek). In the wake of World War I, however, ...

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Hands On: Panerai Radiomir Bronzo PAM00760 SJX Watches
Panerai Radiomir Bronzo PAM00760 Launched Aug 3, 2022

Hands On: Panerai Radiomir Bronzo PAM00760

Launched quietly in May this year, the Radiomir Bronzo PAM00760 is the first substantially new Radiomir model in a long time. Besides being the first Radiomir with bronze case, the PAM 760 is also the first “Events Edition” – a limited-production model that will only be available during dinners hosted by Panerai chief executive Jean-Marc Pontroué. Oversized and cleanly designed in the historical Panerai style, the Radiomir Bronzo is also the first step in the rejuvenation of the Radiomir line, which will see the addition of several new models in 2023. According to Mr Pontroué, the Radiomir will now be a range of watches that are largely historically inspired in terms of design. With that in mind, I would expect the “California” dial to return. Available at dinner, and maybe lunches too Initial thoughts Big, thick, and looking very much like a Panerai on the wrist, the Radiomir Bronzo is appealing to anyone who likes the old-school Panerai look. While it does look like a typical Panerai, the Radiomir Bronzo manages to be fairly novel, at least as novel as a Panerai can be while still retaining its trademark design elements. Besides being the first Radiomir in bronze – past models in the metal were all Submersibles – it also has a textured dial that’s fairly novel for the brand. But the textured finish is combined with traditional elements, a “sandwich” construction and blued hands. Overall it’s a good look, although I find the stitching on the strap...

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Breitling Introduces the Navitimer Singapore Airlines Editions SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Aug 2, 2022

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer Singapore Airlines Editions

Best known for supplying customised watches to air force squadrons, Breitling has less frequently made watches for civilian aviators, but the brand’s latest is a pair of watches created in partnership with one of the world’s best carriers. Each limited to 100 pieces, the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 Singapore Airlines and Navitimer Automatic 38 Singapore Airlines are both dressed in the blue and gold livery of city state’s flag carrier. Initial thoughts For some two decades, Singapore Airlines (SIA) has consistently been ranked amongst the world’s best carriers by airline consultancy Skytrax, so the the tie-up is certainly a good one for Breitling. Fortunately SIA’s corporate colours are a pleasing blue and gold that work well on the Navitimer. The gold accents on the dial give it a slightly more retro feel than the standard models in steel, which uniformly have rhodium-plated markers and hands. For anyone who already likes either Navitimer model but wants something a bit more striking, the SIA editions certainly have their appeal. While the gold accents are appealing, they are the only element that distinguishes the dial of the SIA editions. The chronograph, for instance, is almost identical to the standard Navitimer 41 mm with a dark blue dial, with the only difference being the gold-plated hands and indices. This similarity to the respective standard models is probably the only shortcoming of either edition. Each edition is priced almost 10% more expensiv...

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The 15 Best G-Shock Watches to Add to Your Collection Now Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 22, 2022

The 15 Best G-Shock Watches to Add to Your Collection Now

Since its landmark release in 1983, the Casio G-Shock has represented perhaps the watch world’s purest expression of high technology blended with trendsetting style at a price accessible to just about everyone. Over its 40-plus years on the market, the original “world’s toughest watch” has become a brand all its own, with its own hardcore cadre of collectors, expanding into various designs in its digital, analog, and ana-digi versions; introducing new, cutting-edge technologies for its case and bracelet materials as well as its electronic timekeeping; and recently, even embracing the artisanal crafts of its native Japan for a series of special editions. In ascending order of price, beginning below $100 and reaching into the high four figures for the most exclusive, collectible pieces, here are 15 G-Shock watches available now that are worth adding to your collection (not to mention a few you’ll probably just want to wear a lot). G-Shock DW-5600E-1V Price: $69.95, Case Size: 48.9mm x 42.8mm, Case Height: 13.4mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Quartz The familiar and very affordable DW5600 version of the G-Shock is the model on the market now that most closely replicates the design language of the first G-Shock from 1983, aka the DW-5000. While it’s available in hundreds of variations (a few of them spotlighted below), the basic black rectangular model is what most people envision as the classic, no-frills G-Shock. Its durable resin case boas...

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The new Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is a Time+Tide exclusive Time+Tide
Mido Jul 22, 2022

The new Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is a Time+Tide exclusive

Due to a market saturated with great pieces that evoke the times of yesteryear, you’ve no short of options when it comes to a vintage-styled dive watch, regardless of budget. The Mido Ocean Star Tribute slots in towards the value-oriented end of the spectrum, all the while offering a design that’s directly derived from past … ContinuedThe post The new Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is a Time+Tide exclusive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Introduces Jul 19, 2022

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Having made it a point to collaborate with contemporary artists – last year the brand recruited tattooist Dr Woo to design a watch – Roger Dubuis has now turned to Hajime Sorayama. Best known for his mirrored, metallic female robots – which were the centrepiece of Dior’s 2019 men’s collection – the Japanese illustrator applied his aesthetic to Roger Dubuis’s signature time-only wristwatch to create the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier. The Excalibur is perhaps the quintessential face for the Roger Dubuis of today. Skeletonised and sharply sculpted, the watch – as well as its movement – have been reworked by Mr Sorayama in the manner of his trademark robot drawings. Both the watch case and movement gain the rounded, mirror-polished finish that define Mr Sorayama’s work, which extends to depictions of Mickey Mouse and dinosaurs. A typical Sorayama work: Untitled, 2018. Image – Art Basel Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current offerings are ultra-modern timepieces that are done well in both construction and finish, but they are often overshadowed by their traditional predecessors. That’s a shame because watches such as the Monobalancier are amongst the better examples of a sporty, skeletonised watch. Already original and creative in both the movement and case, the Monobalancier is now made more appealing with the Sorayama touch. The artist has given the watch a makeover that’s subtle yet significant, reshaping some elements and giving most of t...

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Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Jul 7, 2022

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium

A French watchmaking startup founded in 2017 that successfully reimagined several well-known vintage designs, Baltic has just unveiled highest-spec dive watch to date – and arguably its most contemporary design. While still clearly vintage-inspired in terms of aesthetics, the Aquascaphe Titanium does better than its predecessor in terms of materials, construction, as well as water resistance. The result is a more substantial watch that’s pricier but still value minded. The bezel insert is brushed ceramic with luminous markings Initial thoughts For a brand that’s heavily reliant on vintage watches for insrpaiton, the Aquascaphe Titanium is a welcome departure from its other offerings. Granted it still retains a retro feel, but does so with materials that are decidedly modern, namely ceramic and titanium. On the subject of materials, one aspect that distinguishes the new Aquascaphe is the highly-domed sapphire crystal that calls to mind PlexiGlas found on vintage watches. Rarely found in modern dive watches at this price, most of which utilise flat crystals, the domed crystal results in slight visual distortion of the dial’s edges, which might not help legibility but certainly adds to the vintage feel. Another key detail that contributes to the appealing vintage styling is the all-brushed finish on both the case and bezel, along with the tasteful typography, which speak to the brand’s attention to detail. At the same time, the design that combines smart details w...

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Richard Mille Unveils the Thinnest Mechanical Watch Ever SJX Watches
Richard Mille Unveils Jul 6, 2022

Richard Mille Unveils the Thinnest Mechanical Watch Ever

Having signed Ferrari as a partner last year, Richard Mille was expected to debut a Ferrari wristwatch – and probably one with a seven-figure price tag. And so it has, although the watch itself is certainly a surprise. The first watch to result from the partnership is the RM UP-01 Ferrari, the thinnest mechanical watch ever at just 1.75 mm high, besting the previous record holder by 0.05 mm. Very wide and extremely flat, the RM UP-01 achieves that by relying on familiar principles in terms of mechanical deconstruction and reduction, but takes them slightly further to shave off the millimetres. Initial thoughts The last couple of years have seen the record for the thinnest mechanical watch change hands rapidly, with Piaget taking the title in 2018 with the AUC (that came to market in 2020), followed by Bulgari earlier this year with the Octo Finissimo Ultra. The Italian jeweller did not retain the crown for long because Richard Mille has just claimed the title with the RM UP-01 that stands 1.75 mm high, compared to 1.8 mm for the Bulgari. Tellingly, the approach taken by Richard Mille echoes that of Piaget and Bulgari, essentially deconstructing the movement and doing away with as many components as possible. As a result, the RM UP-01 has parallels with the former record holders, most obviously in the tiny time display as well as the deconstructed winding and setting mechanism that each require a key. That indicates that absolute thinness has more or less been achieved...

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Breitling Introduces the Superocean Diver Inspired by the “Slow Motion” SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Jun 30, 2022

Breitling Introduces the Superocean Diver Inspired by the “Slow Motion”

Breitling’s recent releases have stuck to a familiar and effective formula – watches rooted in the brand’s heritage but updated to distinguish them as modern and original, exemplified by the redesigned Chronomat and Navitimer. Now the brand has taken the covers off the Superocean Automatic, a dive watch inspired by the SuperOcean Slow Motion chronograph of the 1960s. While it borrows the original’s two-tone dial and massive, oblong markers, the new Superocean is a clean, time-only watch with no complications and of course a modern construction that includes a ceramic bezel insert as well as quick-adjustment clasp. The SuperOcean Slow Motion ref. 2005 Initial thoughts I’ve always liked past versions of Superocean with bright-coloured dials because they were quite different from other dive watches without being overly fancy. By the same token, I like the latest version as the redesigned dial makes it stand out even more, once again without trying to do too much. No date is great In fact, the Superocean is arguably all about design. Being ETA powered, it is less competitive against offerings from similarly-priced offerings from likes of Tudor (which relies on more sophisticated Kenissi movements), so the Superocean has to excel in terms of look and feel. And it manages to do so with the combination of an extra-wide chapter ring around a “mini” dial, a bold and handsome design that is unlike most of its peers. Aside from the overall design, the dial also appe...

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That time two unexpected celebrities joined the Nautilus club Time+Tide
Jun 30, 2022

That time two unexpected celebrities joined the Nautilus club

Editor’s Note: The Nautilus is back in the news, but not for the reason we’ve become used to. Lofty aftermarket prices are beginning to face a tad of a correction. It seems this brand makes news on the way up and on the way back. But this is likely of little concern to these two chaps … ContinuedThe post That time two unexpected celebrities joined the Nautilus club appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Gerd R. Lang Returns with the Lang 1943 Field Watch SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jun 29, 2022

Gerd R. Lang Returns with the Lang 1943 Field Watch

Once synonymous with Chronoswiss which he founded in 1983, Gerd-Rüdiger Lang is now almost 80 but returns with an all-new brand, Lang 1943. Created in partnership with entrepreneur Georg Bartkowiak, the brand’s inaugural watch is the Lang 1943 Field Watch Edition One. Modelled on the wristwatches issued by the British army during the Second World War, the Field Watch is a modern watch with a vintage flavour that’s powered by a restored 1960s movement. Initial thoughts A military-inspired time-only watch is not a novel concept, and the Field Watch sticks to the traditional design, resulting in a watch that is recognisably similar to the Second World War watches made by the likes of Cyma, IWC, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Lang 1943 isn’t the only brand offering such a watch at the moment; the revived Vertex brand has a similar offering with the M100A and it has the added advantage of being one of the original suppliers during the war. But the Lang 1943 Field Watch is attractively detailed, which is likely due to its founders’ decades of experience, both as horological entrepreneurs and watch collectors. The smoked dial is appealing and sets this apart as a modern watch as oppose to an exact remake. Oddly enough the smoked finish does well with the faux-vintage Super-Luminova and together they give the dial a pleasing palette. One detail worth pointing out is the crosshair on the subsidiary seconds, which was not found on the Second World War originals but is a perfect fit ...

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Patek Philippe Nautilus: One Analysis Of How Prices Have Changed Over Four Years Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus One Analysis Jun 19, 2022

Patek Philippe Nautilus: One Analysis Of How Prices Have Changed Over Four Years

How much does a Patek Philippe Nautilus cost? How will Nautilus prices evolve? Answering these questions, as relevant as they are, has become extremely difficult following the bubble formed in the luxury men’s watch market. This article analyzes the price history of 31 Patek Philippe Nautilus models, revealing the models that have gained an absolute value, the most dramatic relative increases, and the influence of case and bracelet material.

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VIDEO: The King Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up with gilt features and a champagne dial Time+Tide
Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up Jun 19, 2022

VIDEO: The King Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up with gilt features and a champagne dial

The King Seiko era is an often overlooked piece of Seiko’s long and bountiful history. But, as last year marked the 60th anniversary of the King Seiko range’s appearance, there’s been a push to honour it in the best way Seiko know how - with a selection of gorgeous reissues. The latest off the block … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The King Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up with gilt features and a champagne dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT delivers an automatic GMT for under $1000 Time+Tide
Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style Jun 18, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT delivers an automatic GMT for under $1000

Here’s something I didn’t see coming: an entry-level automatic GMT watch from Seiko has just dropped, and it’s packing some serious GMT-Master vibes. The three colourways remind me of the modding community from the SKX message boards back in the day, where home tinkerers would modify their Seiko divers with aftermarket two-tone bezel inserts and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT delivers an automatic GMT for under $1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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“Price on application”: the most annoying three words any watch buyer can ever hear Time+Tide
Rolex Jun 16, 2022

“Price on application”: the most annoying three words any watch buyer can ever hear

I recently had to write a round-up of 24 of the most intriguing watches of 2022.  The brief was for a glossy lifestyle magazine with an upmarket audience and some of the glossiest paper stock you’ll ever see. When it came to the reviews, all the usual suspects were present and correct from Rolex to … ContinuedThe post “Price on application”: the most annoying three words any watch buyer can ever hear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Bradley Taylor eventually returned Jun 14, 2022

Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria

Having learnt the trade in Switzerland before stints at brands like Patek Philippe, Bradley Taylor eventually returned home to Canada and began a new career in independent watchmaking. His inaugural venture was a partnership, but last year he went solo under his own name and debuted the Paragon. A small-run limited edition that’s already sold out, the Paragon was classically styled and Vaucher-powered, which also describe the Mr Taylor’s next watch, the Lutria. Although executed in a similar manner to its predecessor, the Lutria opts for fancier dials in striking colours – including  “salmon” and a blueish-green inspired by the ocean view from Vancouver – that are decorated with traditional guilloche. Initial thoughts A formula that works especially well in independent watchmaking is simplicity done with finesse, which is what Mr Taylor’s work is all about. Both the Paragon and Lutria rely on top-shelf suppliers for the dial and movement, while also incorporating design characteristics unique to his brand, namely the typography that was developed by a fellow Canadian. So if you liked the Paragon, you’ll probably feel the same about the Lutria. The two share the same case and movement, but are quite different. The Lutria is paradoxically simpler yet more elaborate: it reduces the hour markers and does away with the seconds hand but adds colour and engine turning into the mix. The reduction in dial furniture complements the dial decoration, which is entire...

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You Are There: Breitling Launches The Limited Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute And Collectors Strut Their Stuff Quill & Pad
Breitling Launches Jun 11, 2022

You Are There: Breitling Launches The Limited Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute And Collectors Strut Their Stuff

Just when GaryG thinks he knows a little bit about watches, a portal opens to a whole new facet of our hobby he hadn’t previously appreciated. So it was when he recently joined collectors and journalists from around the world for Breitling’s launch of the Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, a tribute piece marking the sixtieth anniversary of astronaut Scott Carpenter’s orbital trip.

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