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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

WATCHSPOTTING: Comic legend John Cleese on his silly little watch and ‘unbelievable’ watch prices Time+Tide
Aug 11, 2016

WATCHSPOTTING: Comic legend John Cleese on his silly little watch and ‘unbelievable’ watch prices

Last night one of the elder statesman of comedy, John Cleese, appeared on Channel Ten’s prime-time news panel show The Project. Ostensibly Cleese was there to discuss a new stage version of Farty Owls – sorry, Fawlty Towers – but things got a little off track when one of the presenters asked him about his … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: Comic legend John Cleese on his silly little watch and ‘unbelievable’ watch prices appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Girard Perregaux Constant Escapement: extreme macros Deployant
Girard-Perregaux Nov 28, 2013

Girard Perregaux Constant Escapement: extreme macros

Girard Perregaux: a grand dame of watchmaking. Making beautiful and magnificent watches. GP is famous for their Tourbillon on Three Golden Bridges. But recently, GP shook the horological world at its roots. After centuries of the Swiss Anchor escapement, they came up a new escapement. Constant force escapement. Beautiful, magnificent. Girard Perregaux Constant Escapement: extremeRead More

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split Returns (Live Pics) Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne 32m ago

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split Returns (Live Pics)

What We Know A. Lange & Söhne is synonymous with the most elegant approach to maximalist watchmaking. The tiny time-telling cities contained within the brand's cases are hypnotic and baffling. Trust me, it becomes all the more impressive when you visit Glashütte and see the work in action. And the brand's CEO, Wilhelm Schmid, has said that among the complicated watches the brand is known for, their most talented watchmakers would often far rather work on tourbillons and perpetual calendars than the famous Triple Split. It's that complex. It's that impressive. And after five years away, it's back. In 2018, Lange launched the first version of the "upgrade," of sorts, to the brand's Double Split. The watch is essentially a rattrapante (a chronograph that can time two intervals), but with the added ability to "split" the interval of the 30-minute counter and, with the Triple Split, the 12-hour counter. It's an incredibly technical and impressive bit of watchmaking and even more impressive when you hear it's cased in a relatively compact (for its complexity) 43.2mm by 15.6mm case, now in platinum. This is the first time the watch has been made in platinum and the first example since 2021. The dial is 0.925 silver, with a light grey track and main dial and dark grey lower subdials, plus luminous hands and hour markers. Finally, the case is water-resistant to 50 meters. The movement, the manually wound L123.1 caliber, is made of 567 parts, 46 jewels, and has 5 screwed gold chat...

Lange’s Triple Split is Now a Platinum Panda SJX Watches
34m ago

Lange’s Triple Split is Now a Platinum Panda

Arguably the most accomplished A. Lange & Söhne chronograph – and undoubtedly the largest – the Triple Split returns for the third time in the best looking guise yet. Now in platinum for the first time, the new Triple Split has a silver dial with dark grey registers – a “panda” dial done Lange style. Following the last iteration in pink gold from 2021, the latest Triple Split is a new take on the familiar model, so the rest remains the same, including the chunky case that’s 15.6 mm high and accommodates the magnificent, multilayered L132.1 that can measure a pair of elapsed times of up to 12 hours, a world first and only. Initial thoughts The new Triple Split is merely a cosmetic variation on the model, but it’s probably the most appealing version of the model to date. The “panda” dial is a pale grey that reminds me of a long-ago Lange limited edition chronograph, while the dark grey sub-dials are a striking feature rarely found on Lange chronographs. Likewise, the case is identically sized, but now in platinum. The immediate impression of the Triple Split is one of size and weight – now even weightier thanks to the platinum case. It’s a reassuring feeling, albeit at the expense of balance on the wrist and ergonomics. This sensation is de rigueur for complicated Lange watches. In keeping with Lange’s recent confidence, the Triple Split is more expensive than its prior iterations, even accounting for the platinum case. But as is the case with the b...

The Top 5 Watches Released During Geneva Watch Days 2026 Fratello
3h ago

The Top 5 Watches Released During Geneva Watch Days 2026

Another Friday, another list! This week was a busy one in the watch world. After a well-deserved summer break, the industry shifted into overdrive during Geneva Watch Days. A total of 71 brands participated in this week’s event with new releases. Many more also used the buzz in Geneva to unveil their new creations. As […] Visit The Top 5 Watches Released During Geneva Watch Days 2026 to read the full article.

JLC calls in Batman, MB&F;’s Nostromo lands, and the GPHG shortlist arrives Time+Tide
MB&F; ’s Nostromo lands 4h ago

JLC calls in Batman, MB&F;’s Nostromo lands, and the GPHG shortlist arrives

The watch world has shown very little interest in easing us gently into September. A bumper Geneva Watch Days has supplied the expected torrent of launches, while elsewhere the week has delivered a Hollywood signing, a cult sci-fi reference rendered in gears and the opening salvo in the industry’s most closely watched awards contest. It’s … Continued

Join Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America for a Windup NYC Preview in Billings, Montana Worn & Wound
Accutron Frédérique Constant 19h ago

Join Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America for a Windup NYC Preview in Billings, Montana

Have you ever wanted the Windup Watch Fair to come to your neck of the wood? Well, if you live in Montana, you’re in luck. Following the success of our recent enthusiast night in Salt Lake, Worn & Wound is teaming up with Citizen Watch America once again, this time heading north to Montana. On Thursday, September 17, we’ll be joining our friends at Riddle’s Jewelry in Billings for a special preview of the offerings they’ll be bringing to Windup NYC next month, and you’re invited. Thursday, September 17, 2026 5:30–7:30 PM MT Riddle’s Jewelry – Billings Shiloh 1002 Shiloh Crossing Blvd. Billings, MT 59102 RSVP NOW! This isn’t your average watch event. We’re bringing along a curated collection of standout pieces from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Frédérique Constant, and Alpina—including watches that are difficult to track down, rarely seen in person, or simply deserve far more wrist time than they usually get. Everything will be out and in the metal, ready for you to pick up, strap on, obsess about, and, if one steals your heart… it’s ready for purchase. A few of the amazing highlights include: Citizen Eco-Drive Photon – Reference BJ6560-53W This limited edition celebrates the 50th anniversary of Eco-Drive technology and features a silver-tone Super Titanium case with a Duratect titanium carbide finish. Limited to just 5,000 pieces worldwide, it’s a standout example of Citizen’s ongoing commitment to light-powered watchmaking. Accutron Spacevi...

Introducing - The New, and Splendid De Bethune DB25 Digitale Monochrome
De Bethune DB25 Digitale De Bethune 20h ago

Introducing - The New, and Splendid De Bethune DB25 Digitale

De Bethune, a co-founder of Geneva Watch Days, returns for the seventh edition with a beautiful piece that revisits the brand’s digital time display. Featured across various models, the first digital display appeared in 2006 with a sophisticated in-line calendar displaying the day, date and month, with jumping hours and a scrolling minute disc. Equipped […]

Breaking News: Rolex To Sell Four Unique Daytonas At Auction Later This Month To Benefit The Federer Foundation And Re:wild Hodinkee
Rolex Yesterday

Breaking News: Rolex To Sell Four Unique Daytonas At Auction Later This Month To Benefit The Federer Foundation And Re:wild

There was a whisper going around Watches & Wonders this year that Rolex had created a set of Daytonas inspired by each of the four seasons – precious metal, gem-set, and, what none of us could really believe, just one of each in the world. In other words, Rolex had made a unique set of watches. And as most of you likely know, Rolex is not in the business of creating one of anything, really. But they'd done it here, and the story goes that they'd asked each of their retailers to submit names and profiles of those who might be a worthy owner of this box set of "Four Seasons" Daytonas. The price? Roughly CHF 4million. Platinum and lapis! Yellow gold and mookaite and chrysoprase! And despite the few details shared, interest in the set was simply overwhelming. Rumor had it that over 1,000 names were submitted for the multi-million-dollar set before the show ended. The names included some of the most famous people in the world. And yet, Rolex, by their own admission, wasn't quite sure how they would decide who would get it. They'd never expected such interest.  Well as of this morning, now we know. For the first time that I can remember, Rolex will hold a charity auction and sell off these four unique Daytonas to the highest bidder. It will take place on September 28 of this year in London, in conjunction with Phillips auction house. All proceeds will go to two charities helmed by arguably Rolex's most famous and influential testimonies, Roger Federer's Federer Foundation and...

Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer Hodinkee
Breitling Universal Genève Yesterday

Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer

What We Know As we walked around Geneva on day one of Geneva Watch Days, we saw signs being put up for Gallet, and I thought how poetic. On the eve of the brand's relaunch, it's certainly an exciting time for fans of the brand. The parent group, House of Brands—Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet—already relaunched Universal Genève earlier this year and is rounding out 2026 by bringing back Gallet today, with one of the brand's most enduring models, the Flying Officer, in two variations: the Flying Officer Chronograph 40 and the Flying Officer Automatic 40. Today's reintroduced Flying Officer arrives in four dial colors across two versions, all cased in 40mm steel. Case specs are shared across the range: 20mm lug width, a screwed-in steel caseback, cambered sapphire glareproofed on both sides, and 100 meters of water resistance. The chronograph case is 15.02mm thick with a 47.55mm lug-to-lug; the three-hand case is thinner, at 10.67mm, with a 47.49mm lug-to-lug. Both versions share a bezel with a city ring listing 24 destinations, mixing major international airports with more remote locations. The Flying Officer Chronograph 40 comes in light blue or black, both with tone-on-tone subdials, and runs the Gallet 23, an automatic caliber based on the Sellita SW510. It measures 30mm in diameter and 7.9mm thick, runs at 28,800 vph (4Hz), and offers an approximate 62-hour power reserve. It offers quarter-second chronograph timing with a 30-minute counter. The Flying Offi...

Conquering Mount Everest With The CIGA Design Everest China 65th Anniversary Fratello
Yesterday

Conquering Mount Everest With The CIGA Design Everest China 65th Anniversary

Over the past decade, CIGA Design has surprised us with some wildly original creations. The most famous, without a doubt, is the Blue Planet, which has won multiple horology prizes, including a GPHG Award in 2021. Another remarkable series is the Everest, which celebrates the conquest of the world’s highest mountain. For its next release […] Visit Conquering Mount Everest With The CIGA Design Everest China 65th Anniversary to read the full article.

Daniel Roth’s Gilty Pleasure SJX Watches
Daniel Roth s Gilty Pleasure Daniel Yesterday

Daniel Roth’s Gilty Pleasure

Daniel Roth has unveiled the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, a new variant of the brand’s elegant time-only model featuring a gilt black dial. Unlike many contemporary watches that misappropriate the term, this is a true gilt dial by definition, where the gold seen on the dial is in fact the dial plate shining through where the dial finish hasn’t been applied. Initial thoughts Daniel Roth is keeping up its momentum at a thoughtful pace; the latest Extra Plat is quintessential Daniel Roth in style, though it stands in stark contrast to earlier versions of the model. Though the new Extra Plat is unchanged in form and movement, it has a strikingly different feel, akin to a dress watch with a bit more flair. Daniel Roth’s line-up, then and now, was dominated by pale-coloured dials. Though the brand made watches with black dials in its original incarnation back in the 1990s, they were uncommon, making the “Rose Gold Gilt” dial both historically correct and novel. Dial aside, the rest of the watch is familiar. The compact dimensions are spot-on for an old-school dress watch, but unconventional in form thanks to the double-ellipse case. And the movement is simple but finely executed, and decidedly superior to the workmanlike Frederic Piguet calibre in the 1990s original that inspired this. A true gilt dial Creating the dial finish is a multi-stage process. Daniel Roth start with the solid 5N rose gold dial plate and apply a pinstriped guilloché, executed by hand on a straig...

Bulgari Taps the Independent Talent of Vianney Halter for Its Next Octo Finissimo Worn & Wound
Bulgari Taps Yesterday

Bulgari Taps the Independent Talent of Vianney Halter for Its Next Octo Finissimo

Since its inception in 2014, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has propelled the Maison into the realm of serious watchmaking, a rare accomplishment for a brand whose origins are deeply rooted in jewelry making. In just over a decade, the models have gone on to break numerous world records (10 to be exact) and take on countless forms from highly complicated versions to ones that play with a range of materials. Along the way, Bulgari has called upon several artists across various mediums to collaborate on designs, resulting in co-created editions with names like Tadao Ando, Lee Ufan, and Mo Coppoletta. Now, for the first time, Bulgari has looked within the industry to partner with another watchmaker, tapping independent Vianney Halter for the next evolution of the iconic Octo. Although this recent collaboration hails from the expertise of two watchmakers, other artforms still come into play, namely the element of sculpture. Bulgari has long been vocal about the influences of Roman art, architecture, and design in its creations. Similarly, Vianney Halter draws inspiration from other modalities, which informs the three dimensional and industrial design language that brings a sculptural nature to his timepieces. These shared values and visions align in the new Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter. When I think of the aesthetic codes of both Bulgari and Vianney Halter, they are bold, clearly defined, and instantly recognizable. At first glance, reading the headline of the pr...

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Hodinkee
Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 What Yesterday

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5

What We Know Okay, let's do this one last time, yeah? For real this time. This is it. At least, I think this is it, because Doxa has yet another new watch (actually, a whole collection of 'em), and it's one a lot of people have been asking for. But before we get to that, a quick recap, because this year, Doxa has dropped (by my count and in rough order): the oversized Sub 750T, the new Sub 200 T.Graph II, the limited edition Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler, a LE Sub 200 T.Graph II with Topper, a Sub Army 200T (in collaboration with Hodinkee), and — just over a week ago — the very cool Doxa Sub 300 Beta "Frogger" in collaboration with San Diego's Belmont Watches. So, it's been a big year, and now they're rounding out the summer with a hell of a line expansion with the — now standard production — Doxa Sub 300 Ti5. Basically, this new watch takes the Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler released earlier in the summer and strips out all the 'Cussler-y' details. The result is… well, it's basically a Sub 300 in titanium, something I've heard plenty of Doxa fans clamoring for since the Cussler edition launched earlier this summer. Unlike the Cussler model (which was limited to just 300 pieces) and played just a little bit more with the format of the Sub 300, this new Sub 300 Ti5 pretty much follows the recipe to the letter. Even the dimensions are identical to the standard steel Sub 300, measuring 42.5mm across, 13.4mm thick, and 45mm lug-to-lug (in other words, perfect). The dial and b...

Introducing - The New Doxa SUB 300 Ti5 Brings Titanium to the Permanent Collection Monochrome
Doxa SUB 300 Ti5 Brings Yesterday

Introducing - The New Doxa SUB 300 Ti5 Brings Titanium to the Permanent Collection

Following the limited Clive Cussler edition introduced earlier this year, the Doxa SUB 300 Ti5 takes the well-known, historically inspired design and reworks it in Grade 5 titanium. This time, however, titanium is here to stay. Available in six classic Doxa colours, the new collection brings a lighter, more technical execution to one of the […]

Introducing: Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition Hodinkee
Ming 2 days ago

Introducing: Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition

What We Know Gerald Charles, known for their Maestro cases, continues to evolve that idea at this year's Geneva Watch Days, but this is the first time they've offered something where every piece is genuinely unique. It's based on a Gérald Genta design from 2007 called the Sarawak, a diamond-and-ruby integrated-bracelet watch created for the Royal family of Sarawak—unknown to the public until 2024—and the direct ancestor of the Masterlink. It's impressive to see the brand continue to iterate on Genta's own designs, decades on. The case looks familiar—it's a classic Maestro, coming in as a square at 38mm x 38mm. The svelte dimensions continue inside: a profile just 7.99mm thin, aided by the 2.67mm movement. There are three colorways here—Golden Rose, Rhodium, and Golden Yellow. The dial is clearly the focal point here, bringing a new element to the Masterlink lineup. Each dial is individually hand-hammered by an artisan at Gerald Charles's atelier in Geneva. It's made of maillechort—also known as German silver or nickel silver, a copper-nickel-zinc alloy — and is typically used for movement bridges and plates rather than dials.  It wasn't chosen because it's easy to work with—quite the opposite: it requires longer production times, wears tools faster, and results in a higher rejection rate. Since each dial is hammered by hand, no two are identical, and there are no applied indexes here, leaving the hundreds of small facets in full view. Inside is the ultra-th...

Introducing - Trilobe Releases the Chateau Trente-Deux with a Burgundy dial Monochrome
Trilobe 2 days ago

Introducing - Trilobe Releases the Chateau Trente-Deux with a Burgundy dial

Founded by Gautier Massonneau in 2018, Trilobe is a French brand distinguished by its hand-free displays. Instead of traditional hands, Trilobe uses three rotating rings that align with fixed markings to display time in motion.  Last year, Trilobe released the Trente-Deux, a luxury sports watch with the brand’s unconventional display in an elegant steel case […]

First Look - The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Daniel Roth has steadily 2 days ago

First Look - The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt

Since its revival in 2023 under the direction of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, Daniel Roth has steadily reconstructed the distinctive design language of its founder, and the Extra Plat is perhaps its purest expression. A modern interpretation of Daniel Roth’s early time-only watches, it features the characteristic double-ellipse case and a slim, manually […]

A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport 2 days ago

A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport

In 2021, Zenith introduced the Chronomaster Sport as its modern sports chronograph. The new series was widely discussed immediately after its release, and despite (or perhaps due to) its hotly debated Rolex Daytona-like aesthetic, it became a massive commercial success for the Le Locle-based brand. Over time, Zenith introduced several new versions that widened the […] Visit A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport to read the full article.

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold With Gilt Dial Hodinkee
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold 2 days ago

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold With Gilt Dial

What We Know I'll come clean—I've been a bit more than mildly obsessed with the modern revival of Daniel Roth ever since I got to spend some time with the Daniel Roth Tourbillon in platinum last year. While that watch very much still reigns supreme for me in the lineup, Daniel Roth has just announced a new watch today that feels awfully close to unseating the Tourbillon's title for me. It's the new variation of the Daniel Roth Extra Plat in rose gold, but this time, it's with a black gilt dial. What's important to note is that this is a true gilt dial, not the often misconstrued sense of the word that many modern watches like to use for accents and markings printed in a gold tone. As I've covered on Hodinkee in the past, a real gilt dial is made by taking a base dial blank, printing a protective lacquer mask on what are typically the positive markings on a dial, and then galvanically coating the entire dial in black. The masked portions of the dial are protected from the coating, and after the lacquer is removed, the base metal underneath serves as the dial text. The dial of this Extra Plat starts as a dial blank of solid 5N rose gold, then is engine-turned by hand on a rose lathe to achieve the guillochage on the various sections of the dial in recognizably Daniel Roth style. Afterward, all the markings—Roman numerals, the Daniel Roth logo, dial number, etc.—are pad-printed with a pink varnish to protect them during the subsequent electroplating treatments. After th...

Introducing: The Oris Social Club Edition II Hodinkee
Oris Social Club Edition II 2 days ago

Introducing: The Oris Social Club Edition II

What We Know As part of the brand's varied releases for Geneva Watch Days, Oris has announced the Social Club Edition II, a special creation sold exclusively online in partnership with the Oris Social Club. The group spans some 62 chapters all over the world, and the latest offering to the acolytes is a handsome expression of the Aquis Relief that incorporates a green nylon NATO-style strap.  Measuring in at 43.5mm, the Social Club Edition II builds upon the standard Aquis Relief by complementing the steel bezel design with a frosted silver finish for the dial. Look a bit closer, and you'll see that there is an easter egg for the date, too, as the first-of-the-month position will feature an image of Oris' mascot, the Oris Bear. Flip the watch over, and you'll find a custom caseback showing the Oris factory in Holstein and "OSC | INT" to mark the club's international membership.  The full specs are provided below, but the Oris Social Club Edition II is 13.1mm thick and 51mm lug to lug with 300 meters of water resistance protecting the Oris 733 movement within. The 733 is based on the Sellita SW 200-1 and is an automatic, Swiss-made movement that ticks at 4 Hz and offers a date, which, for this model, is at 6 o'clock.  Perhaps most interesting – or perhaps I just like NATO straps – Oris has elected to fit lug adapters to the Aquis' proprietary lugs to enable the use of a green NATO strap. The Oris Social Club Edition II is not limited and will be available in Septembe...