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Worn & Wound

Seiko Introduces Jan 12, 2026

Seiko Introduces the Tonneau Shaped SPB537 to the Presage Collection

While it’s tempting to build a collection of just tool watches and divers with beefiness and durability in spades, having a good dress watch is a boon for any collector. Not only can a dress watch give you an excuse to put on that dress or suit and accessorize, it can also help remind you that function isn’t everything then it comes to timepieces; style matters too.  Seiko’s Presage collection has long been a stalwart for dress watch shoppers on a budget who don’t want to sacrifice craftsmanship, and the new SPB537 reference is a tonneau-shaped addition to the Classic Series line. The enamel dial, paired with the tonneau case, is the major selling point for the SPB537, as it was designed by master artisan Mitsuru Yokosawa and his apprentice, Kazunori Uchiyama. This extra level of prestige elevates the SPB537, and adds a sort of intimacy to the design, despite it being introduced as a non-limited, continuous production model. The dial is white, a gentle contrast to the 46mm by 35.9mm stainless steel case and bracelet, and features sharp black Roman numerals, with a black minute track around the outer edge. A matching 24-hour sub-dial at 6 o’clock balances the dial, with the Seiko Presage logo just below 12.  Blued steel hands provide a colorful accent, with a balancing half moon on the tail end of the seconds hand. The blue, though on the subtler side, is a welcome addition to the otherwise very business-like dial, and it furthers the artisan craftsmanship promi...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph"] Dec 23, 2025

Our Favorite Chronos Of 2025

Chronographs are one of the most popular and yet under-appreciated watches out there. While we might take them for granted due to the relative ease of finding a nice one at just about any price point, the watchmaking on display can be as impressive as that from more exotic complications. 2025 was a fantastic year for fans of the chronograph with Omega releasing a manual wind iteration of their sportier ceramic take on the Speedmaster. And then there’s Breguet, who have been on a roll all year. Let’s take a look at our favorite new chronographs for this year and while not all of them made the list, there are some particularly robust honorable mentions here. [toc-section heading="Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph"] The Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph was given a refresh that, in my opinion, puts it in the running for one of the best chronographs out there period. It was previously offered only in a 42mm case but now comes in a fantastic compact 39.5mm wide stainless steel case that comes in at a lug-to-lug height of just around 47.4mm. Of course, it’s not just the case diameter that matters, it’s also the thickness and the reduction from a hefty 17mm to 13.4mm is truly transformative. The L792.4 calibre movement is a manual wind take on the Valjoux 7750 that also gets a contemporary makeover with a silicon balance spring and COSC certification on top of the 68-hour power reserve. While the price of $5,350 on strap and $5,500 might not shout “value” to some,...

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SJX Watches

Rolex Land-Dweller Dec 23, 2025

Best of 2025: Surprises and Unexpected Developments

From one-off artistic creations to new escapement technologies, 2025 delivered more than its share of surprises and unexpected developments. Brands with institutional research and development departments led the way with unexpected material breakthroughs, while Geneva’s oldest watchmaker surprised (and delighted) with a clock of astronomical proportions. Rolex Land-Dweller and Dynapulse Escapement - SJX Given its institutional nature, Rolex rarely surprises, but when it does, the brand does so in a big way. The Land-Dweller was unquestionably one of the biggest debuts from Rolex in a long time. The integrated bracelet design is certainly a departure from the prevailing house style, but the Land-Dweller is a landmark mainly for the movement inside, the cal. 7135 that boasts the Dynapulse escapement. While Rolex movements have enjoyed largely incremental improvements for years, the cal. 7135 in the Land-Dweller is a radical break because it’s an all-new movement with an all-new escapement. The Dynapulse escapement is one of the most forward-thinking inventions by Rolex, arguably ever. A double-wheel, detached and indirect-tangential impulse escapement, the Dynapulse is arguably among the most advanced escapements on the market today – and the cal. 7135 is probably the most precise self-winding movement on the market. More crucially, it is being produced at scale. A new escapement is an achievement, but a new escapement manufactured in large numbers is a bona fide fea...

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SJX Watches

Breguet Four-Minute Tourbillon No 1890 Nov 7, 2025

Hands On: Breguet Four-Minute Tourbillon No. 1890

In the coming weekend, one of the most important watches of this auction season will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s Breguet’s 250th anniversary thematic sale November 9 – Breguet no. 1890, a pocket watch with tourbillon and natural escapement made by the firm by Breguet while Abraham-Louis Breguet himself still helmed the company. The gilt dial with a regulator-style layout might seem familiar – the recent Classique 7225 reproduces this dial design. In fact, Breguet no. 1890 isn’t the only watch in this style; it belongs to a series of pocket watches all equipped with a four-minute tourbillon and échappement naturel from the early 19th century that were among the finest watches of the time. Breguet built just eight four-minute tourbillons with natural escapement, all of which thankfully survive, and only three with gold dials. King George III ordered the most famous example – almost identical to this watch – during the Napoleonic wars. For context, that would be like Churchhill (who owned a Breguet himself) ordering an A. Lange & Söhne watch during the Second World War. As such, it was signed Recordon, Breguet’s London agent, to disguise its French origins. Whirling About Regulator Almost 225 years ago, the French Ministry of the Interior granted A.-L. Breguet a patent for his most famous creation, the tourbillon – a clever exercise in lateral thinking. For a mechanical watch to keep the same time across all vertical positions the combined balance, st...

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Worn & Wound

Yema Navygraf Nov 4, 2025

The Yema Navygraf is the Latest Diver to get the Mother of Pearl Treatment

There is something about mother-of-pearl that seems to be catching watchmakers’ eyes lately. While I highly doubt it has to do with the fact that “Mother of Pearl” is a phenomenal drag name, I can’t totally rule that out as a possibility. Instead, more likely, it has to do with the ease in which adding the iridescent substance onto an existing design gives it new personality without really reinventing the wheel. Case in point: Yema’s Navygraf Pearl. Undoubtedly, the Navygraf is a handsome watch. But, like a drag queen, sometimes it’s hard to describe something as both “handsome” and “pretty” simultaneously. At least, that was my first impression of this French-made watch. Using the classic dive watch model, like the Navygraf, and inlaying mother-of-pearl seemed, in a way, incongruous to the steely, masculine athleticism of the silhouette. But, upon examining the bezel and dial a little more closely, I’m more inclined to think this is less of a gimmick and more of a thematic appreciation for the beauty and sport that the ocean provides (unfortunately, I’m only speculating – the press release was more focused on the technical specs of this Navygraf). So, what are the specs? This is a thinner Navygraf variant, equipped with a micro-rotor caliber CMM.2, meaning that the 316L stainless steel case measuring 39mm, only clocks in at 9.75mm thickness. The CMM.2 caliber also promises around 70 hours of power reserve, making it suitable for any diving trips ...

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Worn & Wound

Ming Oct 27, 2025

Industry News: Time to Watches Joins the Couture Show in Las Vegas

For the past few years, the Time to Watches show has been an important stop on our schedules while in Geneva for Watches & Wonders. Among the many, many events that take place parallel to the biggest trade show in the industry, Time to Watches, which features a variety of small, independent brands which tend to be on the more approachable side of the spectrum, feels like it’s really in our wheelhouse. This year’s Time to Watches event in Geneva was greatly expanded over previous years, and in a new location a stone’s throw from Palexpo, making it an easy and obvious stop for Watches & Wonders attendees.  This morning, news broke that Time to Watches is coming to the United States through a new partnership with Couture, the Las Vegas trade show held every year at the Wynn. Couture, these days, is primarily a jewelry focused event. There are still a number of watch brands that exhibit at Couture, but that figure seems to be decreasing year after year. It’s a huge event for the jewelry industry, but seems to be less critical for the watch world. It certainly has not had the media presence in recent years that it once did.  In a press release, the partnership was described as a move to bring a “curation of luxury timepieces” to the Couture event in Las Vegas. Time to Watches has secured exhibition space at the Wynn that promises easy access to all Couture attendees. Time to Watches Managing Director Christian Wipfli sees Couture as a natural partner in the United...

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SJX Watches

Ulysse Nardin Illuminates Oct 16, 2025

Ulysse Nardin Illuminates the Freak S with Flinqué Enamel

Ulysse Nardin has revealed a new take on its flagship complication, the Freak S Enamel, now offered with a silvery titanium case and with the choice of either red or turquoise translucent flinqué enamel over an engine-turned guilloché dial. While mechanically unchanged, the cleaner case design and high-gloss dial plate transform the overall visual impression and intensify the focus on the central carousel, which serves as both the time display and the heart of the movement. A limited edition of 50 pieces in each colour, the enamel edition is the fourth member of the Freak S family, which was launched in 2022 as a higher-end, dual-balance evolution of the Freak Vision. Initial thoughts Since its debut a quarter century ago, the Freak collection has given Ulysse Nardin (UN) freedom to push the boundaries of movement design. While the usually crownless case and central carousel have become familiar over the years, each iteration still manages to feel like an experiment. The new enamel edition is the most aesthetically restrained Freak S yet; paradoxically, it also feels the most luxurious, trading exotic material combinations for polished titanium and brightly coloured enamel. The result is a watch that feels as radical as ever, but more refined. The 45 mm case, for example, is the simplest Freak S case to date: no carbon flanks, and no PVD coating. The traditional brushed and polished finish helps the large case fade into the background to allow the enamel dial and starshi...

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SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin s Lemania-ba Sep 9, 2025

Fleury Manufacture Reimagines the Classic Lemania Chronograph

Components-specialist-turned-watch brand Fleury Manufacture created its own chronograph calibre inspired by the famous Lemania cal. 2310, which debuts in the FXR-4 Chronograph. Given Fleury’s origins as a supplier of parts, the calibre is built almost entirely by Fleury, and to a high standard. And the FXR-4 stands out for another reason: while independent watchmaking is rarely the value proposition it once was, the FXR-4 is priced well. The FM04 movement Initial Thoughts Self-developed chronographs are a risky proposition for high-end independents. Established brands offer fierce competition, and developing a new chronograph calibre is arguably a thankless task today since enthusiasts remain fixated on highly-decorated three handers that offer the watchmaker a greater return on a smaller investment. The FM04 movement inside scores well in terms of construction and finishing. The architecture is more refined than most other Lemania-esque chronographs, with the chronograph driving wheel integrated into the going train. And the finishing, a mix of machine and hand finishing, has enough of the latter to be considered high end; the black-polished clutch lever is especially outstanding. The design of the exterior doesn’t score quite as well, which is not surprising given Fleury’s background as a parts supplier. The date isn’t to my preference – and the date pusher looks strangely large – it will be a meaningful value-add to others. Vacheron Constantin’s Lemania-ba...

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SJX Watches

Bulgari may have edged it Aug 28, 2025

Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon was the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch at launch last year. Though it’s no longer the record holder, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) Tourbillon remains as interesting and gossamer as ever – and more wearable than its ultra-thin rivals. Now the AUC Tourbillon returns in khaki green and gold livery, but Piaget understands it is not easy being green and will tailor the AUC Tourbillon to taste with its customisation program. The new AUC Tourbillon makes its debut with the matching Altiplano 910P Khaki Green that’s dressed in a darker shade of the colour, while being more affordable by multiples. Initial Thoughts Until a few months ago, the AUC Tourbillon was the thinnest tourbillon ever. While Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon from Bulgari may have edged it out by 0.15 mm earlier this year, that’s probably a distinction without a difference as the two are equally ethereal in person. The AUC Tourbillon is incredibly interesting in technical terms, and the movement hides little from view. Even the balance is flying, without an upper bridge and instead supported by ball-bearings. And the watch looks and feels like a watch, and not a credit card or bangle. Yet, and this is important, it remains durable enough to actually wear on an everyday basis, historically not always the case with extraordinarily flat watches, and even marginally water resistant. To me, the AUC Tourbillon joining Piaget’s Infinitely Person...

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Worn & Wound

Unimatic Introduces Aug 12, 2025

Unimatic Introduces the New Prodiver Collection

While minimalism may be as trendy as ever these days (one look at any modern car interior will tell you that) a lot of brands miss the mark when it comes to balancing that aesthetic with function, or the lack thereof. Not so with Unimatic’s all-new Prodiver line, which promises both a streamlined design language and robust mechanical functionality. But do the watches actually pull it off? Let’s take a deeper dive and find out. Perhaps the biggest factor in Unimatic’s favor here is the Italian brand’s penchant for design cohesiveness across their lineup. Even before taking the new Prodiver into consideration, Unimatic watches share aesthetic hallmarks, namely chunky, round indexes, sans serif typefaces, and symmetrical dial balance. Even models that deviate from this norm, like the UT1 and UT4, which feature hour numerals instead, carry a uniformly round and hardy profile, which gives each Unimatic watch friendly-yet-tough dimensions. This is all personal conjecture, of course, but rarely does a brand manage to maintain consistency in design across their entire lineup quite as well as Unimatic does.  Back to the Prodiver, though; like most other watches by the brand, it also bears the signature round indexes, though it adds some legitimate dive watch pedigree, too. Each of the three new Modello Uno models sports a democratically-sized case, measuring at 40mm in diameter and 49mm lug to lug. The case thickness is a healthy 14.4mm with the domed sapphire crystal, and...

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Monochrome

Aug 9, 2025

The Petrolhead Corner - The Quadrifoglio Collection is the Stuff of Alfa Romeo Dreams

Few countries can hold a candle to the Italians when it comes to cars. With brands like Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, Alfa Romeo and so on, there’s no shortage of four-wheeled beauties. Just mention names like Bertone, Pininfarina, Zagato, Ghia, Giugiaro, and the hearts of most Petrolheads will start racing with excitement. It’s no wonder, then, […]

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe alumni who caught his Aug 1, 2025

Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar

Roger Dubuis is celebrating 30 years by looking back on its days as a trend-setting independent. The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar deftly balances the spirit of Genevan watchmaking from the brand’s early years in the 1990s with the boisterous designs of the 2000s in a manageable size, but less manageable price. While the style is reminiscent of the oversized Excalibur models that were far from ergonomic, the Biretrograde Calendar has been redesigned for wearability. The retrograde calendar mechanism on the front is an in-house construction, built on top of the brand’s own automatic movement that is unexpectedly sophisticated and classical. Initial Thoughts Roger Dubuis is a marque built on calendars, so the new Excalibur has historical resonance. The late Roger Dubuis was a Patek Philippe alumni who caught his big break working with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, who would go on to found Agenhor, on a double retrograde perpetual calendar developed for New York jeweller Harry Winston. It was during the project that Dubuis met his future business partner, Carlos Dias, an entrepreneur who would help establish the Roger Dubuis brand and transform it into a hit maker in the 2000s. The same double retrograde perpetual calendar mechanism would accompany the first Roger Dubuis model the brand’s debut in 1995. And the retrograde calendar also has a historical connection to Geneva, as a local watchmaker named Marius LeCoultre created the most prolific retrograde perpetual design of ...

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel [Updated Jul 29, 2025

A Unique Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel [Updated with Sale Result]

Continuing with its longstanding support for charities in Singapore, one of its key markets globally, Audemars Piguet (AP) has just revealed the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Starwheel SG60, a unique piece created expressly to raise funds for the National Museum of Singapore (NMS). Featuring a red lacquer dial and customised rotor, this one-of-a-kind Starwheel will be sold at auction on August 15, 2025, with all proceeds going to the museum. The watch is also a nod to Singapore’s 60th year as an independent nation, hence the “SG60”. [Update August 15, 2025: The unique Code 11.59 Starwheel sold for 480,000 Singapore dollars, equivalent to US$375,000.] Initial thoughts The Starwheel is my favourite Code 11.59 model, but the regular production version is only available in one guise for now. Unlike the standard model that’s dressed in dark, muted colours, the SG60 edition is bold and striking. The elements specific to the occasion are subtle, like the red “60” on the minute scale, but this is easily distinct from the regular production equivalent. I certainly think it is more appealing. That said, I would have preferred more extensive changes to the dial colour, especially since the black hour discs are now at odds with the rest of the dial that is mostly in red and silver. The only downside, of course, is the fact that it’s a unique piece that will probably sell for three times the retail price (and probably more). More generally, I like the fact that AP is doin...

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Worn & Wound

Doxa Happy Saturday! Dive watch Jul 19, 2025

Catching Up on New Releases from Ming, Wren, Squale, and Doxa

Happy Saturday! Dive watch summer continues – we’ve noticed some fun new divers, all limited editions, come across the transom lately. New water ready releases from Doxa, Wren, and Doxa are profiled below. We’re also spotlight the latest from Ming – while not a diver, it has a stealthiness to it that feels appropriate for the season. Let us know in the comments what you think of these new releases, and what we might have missed. Wren Diver 38 Wren is back with their second watch, the all new Diver 38. The brand, founded by Wrist Enthusiast’s Craig Karger, launched last year with the Diver One, and the new piece is a scaled down, and perhaps more refined take on the original concept. The new version of the watch is smaller, coming in at, you guessed it, 38mm, and is just 10.7mm tall (the original was 41mm in diameter and over 13mm thick). The dial has a sandwich style design, in either a gradient seafoam green or aqua colorway. According to Karger, the goal here was to move Wren into a new category that “balances practicality, comfort, and refined execution.”  The Wren Diver 38 is available in date and no-date versions for $1,595. It runs on a ETA  2892 automatic caliber, and has 200 meters of water resistance. It’s mounted to a flat-link, stainless steel bracelet, and the ceramic bezel insert is fully lumed. Another nice touch: the rotor is skeletonized in the shape of a wren. More information on the Wren Diver 38 can be found on the Wren website here. Mi...

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Worn & Wound

Junghans ?” question comes up Jul 3, 2025

A New Perspective: Hands-On with the Leica ZM12

There are certain objects that just feel “right” the moment you pick them up-think a favorite camera, a well-worn leather jacket, or the satisfying heft of a perfectly balanced lens. That was my first impression handling the new Leica ZM12: a reassuring, Goldilocks weight in the hand, neither too heavy nor too precious to wear daily. Leica’s latest foray into watchmaking isn’t a camera for your wrist, but in true Leica fashion, it does reward a closer look. Leica, Watches, and the (Inevitable) NOMOS Comparison For those mostly familiar with Leica for their cameras, here’s a bit of background: the company’s roots are a little more “watch” than you’d think. Ernst Leitz, the original founder, was trained as a watchmaker before getting into optics. That bit of DNA is still present, even if Leica doesn’t make a big deal about it. In the past few years, they’ve taken their time bringing watches to market-first with the ZM1 and ZM11, and now the ZM12, which really feels like it brings their whole design philosophy full circle. Now, when most folks see a minimalist German watch, the “Is this a NOMOS?” or “Is this a Junghans?” question comes up immediately. And honestly, I get it. All three have that clean, modernist feel. But the ZM12 does its own thing. The case finishing has more going on, the strap quick-change system is the kind of clever you wish was more common, and the movement is honestly more interesting in person than in press shots. NOM...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Review Jun 26, 2025

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Review

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” was released back in 2023 and has since been regarded as one of the finest vintage reinterpretations on the market. This mostly for two reasons, the first simply being that it was not a limited edition unlike every iteration dating back to when the line was introduced all the way back in 2015 with the Calibre 18 Telemeter. Second, they nailed the case proportions as well as the irresistibly charming domed sapphire crystal aka ‘Glassbox’. The original Heuer Carrera was the debuted back in 1963 as the brainchild of none other than Jack Heuer. Since then TAG Heuer has become one of the quintessential “chronograph brands” out there but it was the 2023 release of the Carrera Chronograph“Glassbox” that felt like a full-circle moment. The vintage-inspired design and 39mm case size coupled with contemporary finishing and manufacturing capabilities makes for one of the best chronographs on the market. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph "Glassbox" Case The case size here is near-universally praised due to the nice and wearable proportions that balance that old school chronograph aesthetic with modern finishing techniques. Measuring 39mm wide and 13.86 mm thick with a 45.7mm lug-to-lug measurement (with 100 m of water resistance), the Glassbox is a compact package that makes a pretty strong statement. Sure, the original was 36mm and while I believe a re-edition in that case size would be a hit amongst a small enthusiast base (pe...

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SJX Watches

Greubel Forsey Reworks Jun 18, 2025

Greubel Forsey Reworks the GMT Balancier Convexe

Greubel Forsey has refined its GMT Balancier Convexe with improved wearability due to a slightly smaller case, while maintaining the model’s trademark three-dimensional rotating globe. This is paired with some subtle, but interesting tweaks to the movement itself, including a new, and more elaborately decorated, escape wheel. Initial Thoughts Since the original GMT in 2011, the three-dimensional globe has become a Grebuel Forsey signature. Time zone-related complications are a natural fit for a sports watch, so much so that the brand’s first sports watch was a GMT. The brand has built on the GMT concept through multiple iterations, but the current version is arguably the most focused, without a tourbillon (or four), to distract from the core idea. The latest GMT Balancier Convexe is essentially the same as the previous model, but more wearable. It’s still a large watch, but scaled down and also might lightweight. The added power reserve indicator is also appreciated, and in hindsight, it’s odd that the function was absent in the first place given the utility of a power reserve display on a manual-wind travel watch. The World on Your Wrist Grebuel Forsey’s sporty Convexe cases have always worn somewhat smaller than specifications suggest due to the lug-less design, and the curved sapphire crystal back, which allows the watch to hug the wrist. However, a large watch that wears well is still a large watch. For the new GMT, Grendel Forsey has trimmed the case diamete...

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Worn & Wound

Farer Introduces May 8, 2025

Farer Introduces the Lissom, a New, Colorful Take on the Dress Watch

In case you haven’t noticed, I’m kind of an annoying person. While I do know this about myself, there’s not much I can do to change it. I believe it’s genetic – if I did a DNA test, it would show that I’m half-annoying on my mom’s side. But I think my most annoying trait is the way I try to wedge new, fancy words I’ve just learned into everyday conversations. “Oh,” I commented at a Wal-Mart once in fifth grade, “aren’t those raspberries looking sumptuous?”  “Isn’t that just pernicious!” I exclaimed to my husband while reading a text I had received. And trust me, the term liminal spaces was used more than once in essays at university (God knows I would never have just said “college”). This is all to introduce you to a new word that, perhaps, you didn’t already know: lissom, which means slim and graceful. And it’s the perfect description for Farer’s all-new collection of the same name. Coming in at just 38mm and 7.95mm thick, the Farer Lissom is a watch that lives up to its name. Ostensibly a dress watch, the Lissom’s small profile means that the design itself has to be impactful without veering into ostentation. The small details in the series are what successfully balance this. For example, the case sides are engraved in a keyline to make it appear even thinner, the lugs curve in to hug the wrist better, and the dial is accompanied by a slightly oversized subdial and rounded numerals. Like all of Farer’s watches, the color the...

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Worn & Wound

A. Lange & Sohne Apr 9, 2025

First Impressions of the New A. Lange & Söhne Novelties

A. Lange & Söhne never does half-measures, especially at Watches & Wonders. For 2025, they announced three new models, but a total of four watches: the Saxonia Minute Repeater Perpetual, the Honey Gold Odysseus, and the 1815 in 34mm in rose and white gold. So, one super complicated piece with a ton of features. One rare piece in an exceptional presentation. And two sublimely proportioned everyday watches (in ALS terms). While all were exceptional, the latter of the three left the biggest impression, despite being the smallest in stature.  With a name like Minute Repeater Perpetual, there’s not much mystery about what this watch does, but in true Lange fashion, it’s the elegance with which it does it that’s so special. And, naturally, we have to start with movement. The new caliber L122.2 consists of 640 parts and is meticulously finished to the standards one expects from Lange. In somewhat of a departure from their norm, the untreated Glashütte ¾ plate features a frosted finish instead of Glashütte ribbing. Though the result might appear more straightforward, we were told it makes assembly more complicated, and the resulting even surface puts more attention on the governor, black polished hammers, and encircling gongs, not to mention the free-hand engraved balance cock. It does not just look impressive, however, as there are some clever mechanical tricks at play, too, namely regarding the repeater. The typical sequence of chimes includes first single chimes per ...

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SJX Watches

Grand Seiko Debuts Apr 8, 2025

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion

Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko. This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design. Initial thoughts While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal. The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original. At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement. Ten beats per second While the Tokyo Lion case design has been emplo...

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Worn & Wound

Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again Apr 1, 2025

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy - Again: Introducing the 9RB2 U.F.A. Spring Drive Caliber

2022: the Kodo constant force tourbillon. 2023: the Tentagraph hi-beat mechanical chronograph. 2024: the 9SA4 manual wound, hi-beat, dual-impulse escapement caliber, and Kodo Daybreak. It’s easy to forget that Grand Seiko has brought the proverbial heat to Watches & Wonders every year since the fair started, unveiling something that one could call “revolutionary” for the brand, if on varying scales. Well, it’s looking like 2025 will continue the trend with the introduction of Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, the first caliber with U.F.A., or Ultra Fine Accuracy, designation. Before proceeding, there are two important concepts to understand: Spring Drive and Grand Seiko’s history with acronyms (which, if you know, feel free to jump two paragraphs ahead). Starting with the former, the elevator pitch, which I will take from our article dedicated to the topic is “Spring Drive combines the best of mechanical watchmaking and the best of quartz timekeeping to create a state-of-the-art caliber that lacks the weaknesses inherent to both of these movements.” A bit deeper, Spring Drive movements use the energy stored in a traditional mainspring to drive their proprietary “Tri-synchro” regulator, which replaces the classic lever escapement. It consists of a glide wheel, the rate of which is controlled by an electromagnetic brake, and is essentially regulated by an integrated circuit with a quartz oscillator. The result is a mechanical movement with quartz-like accuracy and...

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SJX Watches

Rolex Land-Dweller Mar 31, 2025

In-Depth: Rolex Land-Dweller

The most discussed debut of Watches & Wonders 2025, the Rolex Land-Dweller is an entirely new model with a new case and bracelet, but that’s not why it is significant. While Rolex is conventionally associated with incremental innovation, the Land-Dweller is game changing. Not because of the design, but because it’s equipped with perhaps the ultimate mechanical movement produced at scale in contemporary watchmaking, a calibre that’s the subject of 16 patents. (The finer technical details can be found in our accompanying story.) The cal. 7135 inside the Land-Dweller is a new, sophisticated calibre equipped with an indirect-impulse, double-wheel escapement that’s entirely in silicon – christened Dynapulse – matched with a ceramic balance pivot. And it’s a high-frequency calibre running at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. Cumulatively, that makes for a superior timekeeper on the wrist. The Land-Dweller debuts in two sizes, 36 mm and 40 mm, in three basic variants: white Rolesor, Everose gold, and platinum. There are also a handful of high-jeweller versions. The Land-Dweller in white Rolesor on Roger Federer’s wrist. Image – Rolex Initial thoughts The Land-Dweller is both surprising and predictable. The styling is surprising; the integrated bracelet echoes historical watches like the Oysterquartz and ref. 5100 Beta 21 but I never expected it. The Land-Dweller looks and feels surprising for a Rolex Oyster. At 9.7 mm it’s the slimmest Oyster Perpetual in the cat...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Mar 26, 2025

Interview: Ilaria Resta, Chief Executive of Audemars Piguet

The chief executive of Audemars Piguet for just over a year now, Ilaria Resta leads the storied brand into its 150th year. In her short time at the helm, she has already overseen the opening of the expansive, vertically integrated Arc manufacture in Le Brassus as well as the first instalment of the brand’s anniversary celebrations. Prior to AP, she spent over 25 years in fast-moving consumer goods, first at Proctor & Gamble and then at Swiss fragrance and flavour specialist Firmenich, making her one of the rare outsiders at the top of Swiss watchmaking, a traditionally insular industry. We recently spoke to Ms Resta about balancing tradition and technology, collaborations, and why there will never be a Royal Oak Star Wheel. Along the way, she dropped a few tantalising hints as to what’s in store for the future, Ms Resta (right) at the recent opening of AP House Singapore, with member of the brand’s board of directors, Oliverio Bottinelli. Image – Audemars Piguet This interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Audemars Piguet is in Le Brassus, a town that’s in the historical heart of watchmaking. It’s the only brand of watchmaking’s “Holy Trinity” that’s not in Geneva. How do you think that makes AP special? Ilaria Resta (IR): First of all, we are there because we were born there. We decided not to move, and we will never move from our birthplace. It is a choice of being true to our legacy and to stay close to the manufacturing. For me, it’s ext...

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WatchAdvice

Cartier Panthère de Cartier I Mar 19, 2025

Hands On Review Of The Cartier Panthère de Cartier

I took the Panthère de Cartier in 18K yellow gold for review, and from the moment I held it, the watch’s elegance and refinement were undeniable. Cartier has once again proven that true luxury isn’t about complexity—it’s about timeless design, effortless wearability, and an unmistakable presence on the wrist. What We Love: The timepiece has a well-balanced design that sits elegantly on the wrist. The white dial perfectly complements the gold case, bezel and bracelet. The gold model, as expected, gives a more luxury appeal compared to the other variants of the timepiece and has a shine that is hard to take your eyes away from! What We Don’t: Lack of micro-adjustment on the bracelet for a better snug fit. Due to the highly polished finish of the gold, the timepiece is prone to scratching While the gold is stunning on the wrist, it doesn’t offer the same versatility as the steel for everyday wear. Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Cartier is renowned for crafting timepieces that strike the perfect balance between subtle elegance and distinctive flair, allowing them to stand out without being overtly flashy. The brand’s mastery lies in its use of unconventional shapes and design elements that enhance a watch’s character without overpowering its essence. The Panthère de Cartier is a perfect example of this philosophy—its design is simple and refined, yet beneath its understated appearance...

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Worn & Wound

Omega Introduces New Bronze Gold Feb 24, 2025

Omega Introduces New Bronze Gold and Burgundy References to the Seamaster Diver 300M Collection

Giving an icon a shiny new coat of paint can be daunting. Of course, if you’re Omega and the icon is the Seamaster Diver 300M, you have plenty of material-both literally and figuratively-to draw on. In that vein, the new Seamaster Diver 300M in Bronze Gold and Burgundy, inspired by the very well-received 007 Edition launched in 2020 for the release of No Time to Die, isn’t reinventing the wheel, but it sure is making it prettier.  This new Seamaster features a strikingly similar design ethos to the 007 Edition, with an oxalic anodized bezel ring and dial, dual screw-down crowns at the 3 and 10 positions, and a domed sapphire crystal. Setting it apart, however, is the Bronze Gold 42mm case, hands, and indices. Omega’s proprietary alloy is composed of 37.5% 9K gold, along with palladium and silver, creating a material that, according to the brand, touts corrosion resistance without verdigris-oxidization, which extends the patina process over a longer period of time than regular bronze. Of course, the Bronze Gold case isn’t the only noticeable difference from the 007 Edition-the new Seamaster’s bezel sports a deep shade of burgundy that contrasts beautifully with the case and gives the watch an air of royalty. Two different models will be available at launch, and both feature the burgundy bezel over a matte black sandblasted aluminum dial. PVD 18K Bronze Gold hands and blackened indices, all of which are coated in Super-LumiNova, populate the dial alongside t...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Citizen Promaster Navihawk Feb 20, 2025

The Citizen Promaster Navihawk is Now Available in a New, Smaller Size

When it comes to “big” and “busy”, few do it better than the Citizen Promaster Navihawk. With a commanding presence packed with information, the aviation icon has always proven to be accessible in price, but not so much in size. That’s all changing, however, as Citizen unveils the 40mm Promaster Navihawk as part of their revamped Promaster Air collection.  Designed to favor legibility and functionality, the 40mm Navihawk will look familiar to those who know the larger model. It features a stainless steel case with satin finishing, polished accents, and a knurled crown, ringed by a rotating slide rule bezel. Inside the flat sapphire crystal, a complementary internal flange borders a metallic dial, available in three colors-khaki green, copper, and silver.  According to Citizen, the 40mm Navihawk features ⅕ second chronograph timing up to 60 minutes, and 12- and 24-hour time displays. Three black chronograph subdials take up the bottom half of the dial, and a rotated date indicator sits between the 4 and 5 indices. To balance out the date’s stilted location, printed details proclaiming the 200m water resistance and the Navihawk logo occupy the same location on the other side, between the 7 and 8 indices.  Inside, the 40mm Navihawk upholds the original model’s reputation of reliability and practicality. Citizen’s proprietary Caliber B620 Eco-Drive movement utilizes solar power to keep the watch running without use of a battery-very handy for those wit...

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Worn & Wound

Grand Seiko SLGH027 We reached Feb 3, 2025

A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027

We reached the point long ago where even the most dedicated Grand Seiko fans and collectors could be expected to keep up with the many, many different dial textures. Intricate textured dials are, at least as much as their famous Zaratsu polishing technique and fantastic family of movements, the thing that Grand Seiko has become most well known for during these last several years that have seen the brand grow at an extraordinary pace. I know for me personally, it’s all a little overwhelming, and while I love seeing all of the new textures and colors pop in watches as the collection grows, I remain biased toward one in particular that caught my eye at the beginning of my own interest in the brand. The first Grand Seiko I ever owned had a black “Mt. Iwate” textured dial, and for me it’s still the standard by which I judge all of the others against. That Mt. Iwate texture, to me, is just the right balance of eye catching and incredibly subtle – it can’t be detected at every angle, which is one of my favorite things about it. It’s also historically taken something of a backseat to the “Snowflake” and “Birch” textures, so it appeals to my natural tendency to root for the underdog.  Given my longstanding appreciation for the Mt. Iwate dial, I was happy to see news of the latest Grand Seiko release, the SLGH027, which brings a tweaked version of the Mt. Iwate texture to the Evolution 9 series of watches. The new texture, which appears to have thicker “ridg...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Farer Reboots Jan 30, 2025

Farer Reboots the Popular GMT Bezel Collection

There is always a risk when a product gets an upgrade (Crystal Pepsi, anyone?), but this is especially a touchy subject in the watch world. We, as collectors and enthusiasts, tend to keep things as they are. Small updates? Sure. Bold colorways? Absolutely. But being told there is a completely new design? Well, now I’m a bit weary. Luckily for me, I’ve been proven wrong by Farer. They’ve recently relaunched their GMT Bezel collection, boasting – you guessed it – a completely new design. Previous iterations of this model were a core offering of the brand, showcasing the balance between bold design language and a classic case style. Now, we see a new (and dare I say improved?) set of GMT Bezels on the market, whose main feature is the concave “ski-slope” lugs first seen on the Chrono-Contempo Collection.  If variety is the spice of life, then the GMT Bezels are pretty damn spicy. Coming in two size options (40mm and 38mm) and four colorways, this is a series that has a bit of something for everyone. I’ll review each of the four color options briefly, giving you a taste of how distinct – and yet cohesive – each reference feels. For the 40mm models, one can choose from Maze and Crooms options. Maze has a pearlescent grid patterned dial complemented by shades of glossy black, light blue, and red. Crooms exemplifies Farer’s in-house design language, with a clean overall design and a bold colorway mixed with additional pops of color. With its burgundy dial i...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Jan 25, 2025

The Petrolhead Corner - Toyota Conquers the Saudi Desert as it Wins the 2025 Dakar Rally

It’s a tradition at the start of every year that the world’s best and most ambitious adventurers on two and four wheels trek to the Saudi Arabian desert. The venue is the famous Dakar Rally, the most gruelling off-road endurance race on the calendar. While no longer a contest starting in Paris and finishing in […]

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox 39mm Purple Jan 21, 2025

TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox 39mm Purple Dial Review

When TAG Heuer released the Carrera “Glassbox” in 2023 it was immediately received as one of the better vintage reinterpretations of the post-pandemic era. Why exactly is it so beloved? Well, first off, it was the first non-limited production or limited edition ‘Glassbox’ Carrera since the line was introduced all the way back in 2015 with the Calibre 18 Telemeter. Then came notable limited editions like the Skipper reissue and 160th anniversary edition. Secondly, the 39mm-wide case with that personality-packed, domed sapphire crystal (aka "Glassbox") struck a good balance between modern manufacturing/finishing and vintage-inspired design. Now as LVMH Watch Week 2025 kicks off, TAG Heuer has released a new Carrera Chronograph "Glassbox" in a striking purple dial that is borrowed from a limited-edition Monaco from 2022. We haven’t seen too many purple-dial watches so far, so it’s savvy for TAG to get in on the ground floor of what could (or just as easily could not) be the next big color at the top of 2025. Personally, I think it looks great and could very well be the most attractive iteration of the Glassbox so far. While I love and admire TAG’s consistent dedication to its vintage-racing-inspired history, it’s so nice to see something that isn’t really steeped in any legacy story but rather just looks cool and stands on its own in the moment. The 39mm wide and 13.86mm-thick case of the Carrera Glassbox (with 100 meters of water resistance) has a 46mm lug-...

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