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Results for GMT & World Time

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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

Girard Perregaux Constant Escapement: extreme macros Deployant
Girard-Perregaux Nov 28, 2013

Girard Perregaux Constant Escapement: extreme macros

Girard Perregaux: a grand dame of watchmaking. Making beautiful and magnificent watches. GP is famous for their Tourbillon on Three Golden Bridges. But recently, GP shook the horological world at its roots. After centuries of the Swiss Anchor escapement, they came up a new escapement. Constant force escapement. Beautiful, magnificent. Girard Perregaux Constant Escapement: extremeRead More

Auctions: Monaco Legend Group's Fall Auction Is A Return To The Classics Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Moon Phase 56m ago

Auctions: Monaco Legend Group's Fall Auction Is A Return To The Classics

We're back in the saddle again, riding the bucking bronco that is the auction market. But as a salve to the wounds of the usual suspects of whatever the market is hyped on these days, today we're looking at the Monaco Legend Auction catalog, which takes place October 31 and November 1 in—you guessed it—Monaco. I won't be there this time (though I am hoping to return in the future), but here's my view from afar. I haven't seen any watches in person, so I won't go into depth on quality—do your own research—but hopefully this gives you a jumping-off point. The Top Lots Lot 50, Rolex ref. 6062, with an estimate of €1,000,000 to €2,000,000 As I like to do, I feel like I have to acknowledge some of the top lots. The auction feels more like a return to Monaco Legend's older catalog, where much of it is super rare, but it's not the loud, flashy stuff you'd find elsewhere. But to have your top watch be a very, very clean Rolex ref. 6062 in steel, carrying an estimate of €1,000,000 to €2,000,000, is a massive flex. The watch comes from the collection of Auro Montanari and, frankly, the estimate may be a bit conservative. Watches like this, especially in this condition, are rare, and the buyer pool is also thin. The watch could go for triple the low estimate without surprising me, as long as the right buyers don't already have one. Lot 208, Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Moon Phase, estimate € 200,000 –⁠ 400,000. Lot 181, Patek Philippe ref. 3974, estimate € ...

Interview: Eivind “Edthezilla” Németh And The Journey To A Rexhep Rexhepi Hodinkee
Rexhep Rexhepi 4h ago

Interview: Eivind “Edthezilla” Németh And The Journey To A Rexhep Rexhepi

The online watch community is a wondrous place. These days, social media like Instagram seems to bring together enthusiasts and collectors from all corners of the Earth, pulling them together in a little internet hub that somehow makes this already small, niche world even smaller. Sometimes, you’ll find yourselves chatting with and connecting with many people for many years, despite having never met them in person. Eivind Németh, or better known as @Edthezilla on Instagram, is one of those people for me. I first connected with him on the platform a few years ago, but to this day, we still haven’t met in person. Yes, we’ve been in many of the same rooms together, commented on each other’s content online, and more. But as fate would have it, a proper chat had never been in store until now. What caught a lot of attention in the online community recently was Németh’s most recent acquisition. A grail amongst grails—the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II. Normally, that would be a dream watch for most collectors. But there was one more twist—Németh would be receiving a piece unique. Like many, it was this moment that made me ask, “Who really is Edthezilla?” So, I reached out to hopefully (and finally) know a bit more about the guy. Here’s what I did know about Németh—he’s a collector from Norway, has been obsessed with Rexhep for longer than most, and has written about watches online for sites like Tidsonnen and Monochrome. Németh might take...

Louis Erard Introduces the Dia De Los Muertos Black Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Introduces 2 days ago

Louis Erard Introduces the Dia De Los Muertos Black

We’ve arrived at the time of year where we can finally highlight my favorite seasonal watch niche. Skull watches, most often created to underscore the philosophy of memento mori (an acknowledgement of our mortality) tend to pop up in October to coincide with Halloween and Day of the Dead celebrations. This is a watch design rabbit hole that has snuck up on me over the years, but if you think about it, it makes a certain amount of sense that a skull represented on a dial surface could be an interesting platform for a variety of craft techniques. We’ll have a (long) list of some of our favorite skull watches on the website a little later this month.  But today, we’ll focus on the latest addition to the skull watches canon, the Louis Erard Dia De Los Muertos Black. This is a fairly straightforward skull watch, with a bold and colorful skull clad in floral motifs dominating the dial. This limited edition (only 10 are being made) has a black coated case and black dial, which feels appropriate and also properly frames the colorful skull.  The floral motifs on the skull are recessed, and the brand’s own images suggest a skull design with subtle depth when explored closely. The brand’s logo is blended into the skull at around 12:00, and the name of the brand appears across the skull’s teeth at 6:00. A total of 6 color transfers have been placed on the skull applique, with the dominant tones being white, gray, orange and yellow. The hands are pear shaped and anthracit...

Industrial Artisanship and the Paradox of Independence SJX Watches
Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref 2 days ago

Industrial Artisanship and the Paradox of Independence

Independent watchmaking is often discussed as a world apart from the work of major brands. But the distinction becomes less clear when we look at how specific watches are made and who makes them, especially when it comes to artisanal watchmaking within industrial brands. From this perspective, the qualities that once distinguished the work of independent watchmakers are increasingly evident within major brands. Yet historical manufactures remain under-appreciated for exceptional hand finishing, distinctive movement architecture, and small-scale production that would attract considerable attention with an independent’s name on the dial. An objective measure Back in 2022, we published a widely cited market map of the fine watchmaking sector based on the concept of watchmaker-hours. The goal was to look beyond brand positioning and establish an objective, quantitative basis for comparing different approaches to production. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst is a prime example of small-scale artisanal watchmaking taking place within a larger organisation The methodology was simple: take a company’s available employee hours — essentially the headcount multiplied by the number of hours in the working year — and divide it by its total output, in terms of watches per year. The result is a theoretical maximum number of human hours available for each watch. The cal. 31-260 inside the Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P typifies the industrial-haut...

Introducing - Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition Monochrome
Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest 2 days ago

Introducing - Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition

Oris supports environmental causes through its watches, like the Aquis Date Yangtze Jiangtun or the New York Harbour limited editions, participating in projects dedicated to protecting marine ecosystems and bringing attention to issues beyond watchmaking. The new Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition is made with Francis Pérez, the award-winning underwater photographer and long-time Oris […]

Event Invitation: Join Us For A Gallet × Fratello Evening On November 10th Fratello
Breitling sibling Exactly 200 years 3 days ago

Event Invitation: Join Us For A Gallet × Fratello Evening On November 10th

A few months ago, Gallet re-entered the watch world as a Breitling sibling. Exactly 200 years after its founding in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand went all out with four new collections — Flying Officer, Multichron Pilot, Multichron Sport, and Gallet Classics. All four lines draw on different parts of Gallet’s history, from aviation and international […] Visit Event Invitation: Join Us For A Gallet × Fratello Evening On November 10th to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: What Will It Take To Turn The Vintage Speedmaster Market Around? Fratello
3 days ago

Fratello On Air: What Will It Take To Turn The Vintage Speedmaster Market Around?

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we have an open chat about what it might take to turn the vintage Speedmaster market around. Let’s face it, it has been quiet for a long time. We’d love nothing more than to see the enthusiasm return and hear your thoughts on what […] Visit Fratello On Air: What Will It Take To Turn The Vintage Speedmaster Market Around? to read the full article.

(Hands-On) Is Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival A384 Terrific In Tropical? WatchAdvice
Zenith s Chronomaster Revival A384 3 days ago

(Hands-On) Is Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival A384 Terrific In Tropical?

Zenith’s latest addition to the Chronomaster Revival line directly references its heritage models, but can the beauty of age be replicated? Let’s find out! What We Love: Old-world cues in a sepia tone Retro yet wearable case profile Ladder bracelet perfect for hotter temperatures What We Don’t: Sharp clasp still needs improving No hacking seconds Be old or look old? Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 Just like us, watches get old. But vintage watches occupy the same space as old cars, Renaissance art, George Clooney and Anne Hathaway, in so far as they’ve aged gracefully. And while everyone wants a piece of that prime beauty, not everyone can get their hands on it. So too is the case for the original Zenith Ref. A384, first introduced in 1969 as the brand’s first-ever high-beat chronograph. Establishing the foundations for generations of Zenith watches to come, the A384 has since become a legend, rarely seen outside the upper echelons of vintage watch collecting. Getting your hands on one is near-impossible these days, as unfortunately we can’t rewind time to when their price tags was equivalent to peanuts. But what if we could fast-forward? That’s what Zenith asked itself when it introduced the Chronomaster Revival A384 in 2019. The first reference faithfully recreated the original A384 as if it had just rolled off the factory floor, with the iconic ladder bracelet following in 2020. This l...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust Fratello
Tudor Royal Vs Rolex Oysterquartz 5 days ago

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a hot cup of coffee, some breakfast, and another installment in our ongoing Sunday Morning Showdown series. This week, the question is whether you’ll go modern or vintage. Daan picked the updated Tudor Royal that debuted at Watches and Wonders earlier this year. It goes up against Jorg’s […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust to read the full article.

Introducing The Trilobe Château Trente-Deux - Let’s Drink To That Fratello
Trilobe 6 days ago

Introducing The Trilobe Château Trente-Deux - Let’s Drink To That

For many of us, at least native English speakers, our brains seem “wired” to read from left to right, top to bottom. Now, scientifically speaking, doing this is learned behavior, but our parents drill it into us from the first time we pick up a picture book. Indeed, we do crave linear progression. And as […] Visit Introducing The Trilobe Château Trente-Deux — Let’s Drink To That to read the full article.

Introducing - The Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission Brings the Earth and Mars to the Wrist Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission Brings 6 days ago

Introducing - The Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission Brings the Earth and Mars to the Wrist

Earth, the Moon, Mars, and a spacecraft… Sounds like Christopher Nolan is cooking up another mind-bending film, but it is actually the new Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission. Following the BR-03 Astro from 2025, this new edition has a dial that takes the concept of space-time rather literally. The watch has no conventional hands. […]

Ressence Unveils Oil-Filled Type 10 SJX Watches
Ressence Unveils Oil-Filled Type 10 Oct 16, 2026

Ressence Unveils Oil-Filled Type 10

The Ressence Type 10 DN pairs the brand’s proprietary base calibre with its oil-filled display module for the first time. The organically shaped case is a natural evolution of Ressence’s minimalist style, finished in dark blue DLC-coated titanium for this 100-piece debut. The new movement brings a practical benefit, extending the power reserve from 36 to 60 hours compared with its ETA-powered oil-filled siblings. Initial thoughts Ressence debuted its first proprietary base calibre earlier this year in the Type 11, and it was only a matter of time before the Belgian independent paired this platform with its signature oil-filled display module. We didn’t have to wait long, which suggests the industrialisation of the new movement is progressing well. Inspiration for the Type 10’s organic shape came from founder Benoît Mintiens’ curiosity about what a watch would look like if shaped by the laws of nature. The result is an organic form that smoothly integrates the lines of the crystal into the case, with scalloped lugs meeting a colour-matched rubber strap. The case surfaces meet along one of its few sharp edges, while the absence of a conventional crown preserves the symmetry. Like other Ressence watches, the Type 10 is set and wound via the case back ring. The case is made of polished Grade 5 titanium with a DLC coating in a shade Ressence calls “Dark Night” — a rich navy that continues across the dial, which has been simplified beyond the brand’s typical m...

The Top 5 Recent Field Watches Fratello
Oct 16, 2026

The Top 5 Recent Field Watches

Another Friday, another list. This week, we pick five of our favorite recent field watches. The category always sparks debate. What began with World War I “trench watches” has evolved into a versatile range of functional, reliable, legible timekeeping companions ready for all kinds of adventures. That broader definition brings plenty of options to the […] Visit The Top 5 Recent Field Watches to read the full article.

Business News: Former AP CEO François-Henri Bennahmias Brought In As Consultant To Hublot Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Oct 15, 2026

Business News: Former AP CEO François-Henri Bennahmias Brought In As Consultant To Hublot

François-Henri Bennahmias, the high-profile executive who served as the CEO of Audemars Piguet for more than a decade and grew annual sales beyond $2 billion, is being tapped as a consultant to Hublot in a surprise move by the LVMH-owned watch brand. Bennahmias was recently brought on to advise and consult for the brand, according to people familiar with the matter. Julien Tornare, the long-time LVMH executive who has served as Hublot's CEO since 2024, remains in the role, according to people who asked not to be named because Bennahmias' appointment hasn't been publicly disclosed.  The Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons Bennahmias's move to consult for Hublot, founded in 1980 by Italian entrepreneur Carlo Crocco and known for its innovative, irreverent approach to watchmaking, including rubber straps on precious-metal timepieces, is an unexpected shift. The former professional golfer, who led Audemars Piguet until 2024, launched The Honourable Merchants Group in 2025 and promised to bring watch brands to the new luxury conglomerate that also included an electric bicycle company. While Bennahmias held discussions to acquire stakes in existing watch brands, none have been completed. THMG, as the luxury constellation is known, said in July that it would create a brand called 'N3W5' that will launch at Dubai Watch Week in 2027.  François-Henri Bennahmias at an event in Switzerland launching The Honourable Merchants Group.  LVMH, meanwhile, has been making c...

Introducing: Monta 10th Anniversary Neuchâtel X Collection in Opalin Silver Hodinkee
Monta Oct 15, 2026

Introducing: Monta 10th Anniversary Neuchâtel X Collection in Opalin Silver

What We Know It's hard to pinpoint the moment when microbrand watches went from just good to genuinely competitive, but without a doubt, Monta was one of the brands that showed that the transition was more than just happening; it had happened. Thinking back now, it seems obvious, but 2016 was a very different world in microbrand watches. When I got into watches around 2010, microbrands were a bit of a Wild West, with brands popping up and disappearing often just as quickly. Put another way, they were daunting. A lot of the early micro-brands were born out of forums and felt like a mismatch of parts sourced from wherever they could be had. By 2016 (or 2018, when James offered up a primer on microbrands), that was increasingly not the case. In 2026, the microbrand movement has come even further, and Monta is no small part of that history. Now, the brand — based in St. Louis, but whose watches are "conceived" and made in Neuchâtel — is celebrating its tenth anniversary with a pair of limited editions, the Monta Skyquest Neuchâtel X and the Monta Triumph Neuchâtel X. At their core, each of these limited-edition watches is a relatively straightforward re-dial of the standard collection Skyquest and Triumph, but each is filled with detail meant to elicit memories of the mid-century sports watches which served as clear inspiration for these models. The most obvious change here is the shift, in each case, to an Opalin silver dial with painted indices and numerals, and "vint...

Papar Puts a Twist on the All-Black Watch with Its Slimmest Watch Yet Featuring a Wandering-Hour Worn & Wound
Oct 15, 2026

Papar Puts a Twist on the All-Black Watch with Its Slimmest Watch Yet Featuring a Wandering-Hour

You probably know I’ve been a fan of Papar from the brand’s launch in 2024 with its initial model, the Anillo. Since this inaugural GMT collection, the brand has expanded with the addition of a diver called the Cenote. Now, we get a third collection that offers a wandering-hour: the Vuelte. Before even reading the full press kit and just browsing through the images of the latest model in Papar’s lineup, I could see the brand’s distinct and playful DNA shine through in details like the now-signature octagonal case created by intersecting planes giving the impression of folded steel and the poetic color-changing crescent moon logo smiling. I could also see the Vuelte bringing a new personality to the lineup – one that’s a bit more restrained and minimal. However, knowing the attention to detail and the meaning attached to those details that’s been a throughline with Papar’s designs, I also knew there was more than meets the eye behind the aesthetics of this latest offering. The Vuelte introduces a wander-hour complication executed with a very distinct all-black design. If you’ve been in the watch world for a while now, you are well versed in the plethora of blacked-out watches available from nearly every brand. Leave it to Papar to put its own spin on the color concept.  Rather than relying on conventional hands, an aperture carrying the current hour travels around the black dial while a red triangular indicator traces the passing minutes along the perimet...

Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic Continues The Loco Series In Style Fratello
Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic Continues Oct 15, 2026

Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic Continues The Loco Series In Style

Contrary to what many watch enthusiasts think, a watch’s design usually starts with the caliber, not the case or the dial. Most of the time, the movement is the limiting factor that a creative team needs to build a design around. But there are multiple ways of solving the puzzle. One involves creating a different […] Visit Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic Continues The Loco Series In Style to read the full article.

Urwerk Takes a Quantum Leap with the UR-300 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Oct 15, 2026

Urwerk Takes a Quantum Leap with the UR-300

Urwerk’s latest interpretation of the wandering hours complication ventures beyond classical physics with the UR-300 Time Quantum, which debuts a cleverly constructed jumping display inspired by quantum mechanics. Housed in a sleek new titanium case with a choice of finishes, the UR-300 is almost as cutting-edge on the inside as its futuristic design makes it out to be, with LIGA-formed levers and wheels that catapult the display forwards in the blink of an eye. Initial thoughts According to Urwerk, the design of the UR-300 was inspired by the property of quantum entanglement, which informed the functional design of the new jumping wandering hours module. This explains why when one of the two “atoms” responsible for the hours flips, so does the other. I got a preview of the prototype movement earlier this year and was immediately taken by the new display and the elegance of its mechanism, which takes a familiar look and adds a surprising, jumping twist. The final design of the space ship-like case suits the concept, making it immediately recognisable as an Urwerk. Ultimately, the unique selling proposition of this watch is aesthetic, but it’s an aesthetic that only works thanks to clever engineering. That said, the roughly US$200,000 asking price is steep by the standards of high-end wandering hours complications, whether from Urwerk or larger brands like Audemars Piguet that, admittedly, have vastly different economies of scale. But no brand does futurism quite li...

Hands-On With Two Cônillons: Trying Out The ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art Fratello
Oct 15, 2026

Hands-On With Two Cônillons: Trying Out The ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art

This is not the first time you’ve read about cônillons. Do you still remember what a cônillon is? Let me jog your memory. It is a tilted tourbillon regulator with a tilted balance that follows a conical path rather than a conventional flat plane. It’s not a new concept. The American watchmaker Andrew Holden Potter […] Visit Hands-On With Two Cônillons: Trying Out The ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art to read the full article.

Owner’s Review: the Straum Jan Mayen Stormy Seas Worn & Wound
Straum Oct 14, 2026

Owner’s Review: the Straum Jan Mayen Stormy Seas

Spirit Halloween stores are popping up around the city, pumpkin beer has hit the shelves, and 80-plus-degree highs in Brooklyn are in the rearview mirror (please remain true). I’ve returned my most worn summer watch to the display box and this one included quite a few “firsts”. I received my Jan Mayen Stormy Seas, a collaboration between the Norwegian brand and The Real Time Show (a podcast I’ll admit I’m still ignorant of) in late May after a production issue with the rubber straps delayed the promised delivery date by about three months. I grew up on the west coast sailing with my parents (who until very recently lived fulltime on their 43ft Hans Christian Ketch named “Galatea”) so perhaps that’s why I’m drawn to a watch called “Stormy Seas”, but regardless I found the contents of the precision machined capsule absolutely stunning. This was the first watch I’ve ever pre-ordered. While it’s not my favorite business practice, I knew the risks involved and was quite happy when they included a second strap gratis for the inconvenience. It remained on my wrist almost exclusively for the next three months. As well as my first pre-order and first Straum, it is also the first watch I’ve owned on a rubber strap, my first titanium case, and first integrated bracelet (more on that later). Straum has been on my radar since a Limited Edition Jan Mayen they released with Fratello back in the Spring of 2023. I loved the textural details in that fiery red dia...

Portrait - Miyota, The Engine Behind the Watch, And The Rise of the Japanese Movement Maker Monochrome
Oct 14, 2026

Portrait - Miyota, The Engine Behind the Watch, And The Rise of the Japanese Movement Maker

For more than four decades, Miyota has been quietly powering watches from brands around the world. As the watch industry evolves, however, the movement manufacturer is increasingly stepping into the spotlight – highlighting not only its technical expertise and manufacturing capabilities, but also the role movements play in the identity, reliability and long-term value of […]