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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.
Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian’s DOXA SUB 300 Professional Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nov 24, 2019

Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian’s DOXA SUB 300 Professional

While wandering the booths of Dubai Watch Week, any enthusiastic eye can spot Rolex, Patek Philippe and the rest of the usual suspects on the wrists of other attendees, but it was a surprise to see a flash of orange pass by one afternoon. Sure enough, after stopping and speaking with Julian briefly, I confirmed … ContinuedThe post Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian’s DOXA SUB 300 Professional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Real watch lovers of Sydney turn out for second launch of DOXA in Australia Time+Tide
Doxa Nov 24, 2019

Real watch lovers of Sydney turn out for second launch of DOXA in Australia

If I could offer one piece of advice for anyone who is ever asked to speak at a watch event, it is this: know your stuff. At the second launch of Doxa watches in Australia in a week, this time in Sydney at the home of Oscar Hunt tailors in York Street, I spoke about … ContinuedThe post Real watch lovers of Sydney turn out for second launch of DOXA in Australia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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How to justify your next watch #2, the ‘Hey, it could be coke and hookers’ defence Time+Tide
Nov 22, 2019

How to justify your next watch #2, the ‘Hey, it could be coke and hookers’ defence

NOTE: The problem is that some people just don’t get it. They don’t understand how important, nay, how essential, your next watch is. Not just to your happiness, but also to your sense of purpose, your ability to be a complete person. Against the blockers in your life, we have a new weapon. The Enabler. He is … ContinuedThe post How to justify your next watch #2, the ‘Hey, it could be coke and hookers’ defence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph “Blue Angels” SJX Watches
Breitling Nov 20, 2019

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph “Blue Angels”

Having recently coming a licensee of the U.S. Navy Flight Demonstration Squadron, better known as the Blue Angels, IWC is marking the occasion with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels”. Already the longtime licensee for the U.S. Navy Fighter Weapons School – hence the Pilot’s Watch Top Gun editions – IWC is the latest watchmaker to sign with the Blue Angels. The team has had several watchmakers become licensees over the years, first Breitling in the 1990s, followed by Citizen. The new Blue Angels chronograph is in blue and yellow, the colours of the Blue Angels’ emblem. The dial is a dark, metallic blue with a yellow track for the hours. The case is in matte black ceramic and measures 44.5mm wide. The Blue Angels logo engraved on the back Inside is the cal. 89361, the brand’s top of the line, in-house chronograph. It’s an automatic movement with IWC’s signature Pellaton winding mechanism. The chronograph has both a flyback function as well as the hour and minute registers co-axial at 12 o’clock. Key facts and price Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels” Ref. IW389008 Diameter: 44.5mm Height: 15.7mm Material: Black ceramic Water resistance: 60m Movement: Cal. 89361 Functions: Time, date, and flyback chronograph Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour, or 4Hz Power reserve: 68 hours Strap: Blue calfskin Limited edition: No Availability: From November 2019, at both boutiques and retailers Price: US$...

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Business News: Swiss Watch Exports to Hong Kong Plunge 30% in October SJX Watches
Nov 19, 2019

Business News: Swiss Watch Exports to Hong Kong Plunge 30% in October

The latest figures from trade body Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH) show a massive fall in Swiss watch exports to Hong Kong, a statistic that is proxy for sales of luxury watches. According to the FH numbers for the month of October 2019, exports to Hong Kong fell 29.7% to 191.3m Swiss francs. This comes after a more measured, 4.6% drop in September. Exports to Hong Hong have now fallen below those to China, which rose 10.8% to 218.4m francs. Enjoying a 11.2% rise to 227.5m francs is the United States, which was the largest market for Swiss watches in October. For the year to date, Hong Kong remains the world’s largest market for Swiss watches, though the gap between it and the second-placed United States is falling. Hong Kong imported 2.26 billion francs of Swiss watches in the year to date – a fall of 8.8% compared to the same period las year – compared to 1.97 billion francs for the United States. Pedder Street in Hong Kong’s Central business district, ordinarily a shopping paradise. Photo – Hong Kong Tourism Board The drop in watch exports to the city confirm industry talk that the luxury goods has been hard hit by the six months of protests that have roiled Hong Kong. Shops located in the worst affected areas can only stay open for a fraction of a business day, or not at all on some days. Several executives from both watch brands and retailers in the territory have cited consecutive, month-on-month drops in store sales that reach into the double d...

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RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Jean-Claude Biver’s unbelievable watch collection Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Nov 19, 2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Jean-Claude Biver’s unbelievable watch collection

There’s a pretty strong case to be made that Mr Jean-Claude Biver is one of, if not the most influential individual in the horological industry of the last half-a-century. Here is a man who cut his teeth at Audemars Piguet and witnessed first-hand the development of the now legendary Royal Oak. A man who would … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Jean-Claude Biver’s unbelievable watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Sotheby’s to Sell A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Service Watch in Steel [Withdrawn] SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 18, 2019

Sotheby’s to Sell A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Service Watch in Steel [Withdrawn]

Long before the Odysseus “sport-elegant” watch, A. Lange & Söhne already had a serially produced timepiece in stainless steel. In the late 1990s, just as the brand was rapidly gaining traction as the preeminent German watchmaker – remember that it had only unveiled its wristwatch collection in 1994 – the company rolled out the fabled 1815 service watch. (NB: Sotheby’s has withdrawn the watch from the sale.) The rationale behind the watch was simple: a loaner for clients who had sent in their Lange wristwatch for servicing. Staying true to the exceptionally high standards the start-up brand had established for itself, the loaner was not a disposable or cut-rate watch. It was a time-only 1815 that was almost identical to the standard model – with the same highly finished movement and solid silver dial – except the case was steel while the dial was black with white markings, a colour not available on the regular production watch. Note the case back engraving. Photo – Sotheby’s Reputedly around 80-120 of these service watches were made. They were produced in small batches over a period, perhaps over a handful of years from the late 1990s to the early 2000s. The number might not seem like much, but with the company being relatively new at the time, the number of watches returned for servicing was presumably quite small. The movement in the service watch is finished to exactly the same level as that on a standard watch. Photo – Sotheby’s The 1815 serv...

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Dubai Watch Week Returns – Nov 20-24 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Nov 17, 2019

Dubai Watch Week Returns – Nov 20-24

Returning for the fifth time, Dubai Watch Week (DWW) will take place from November 20-24, once again at the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC), a sprawling complex of offices, shops, restaurants, and three hotels, which is entirely self contained, making a visit to DWW easy to plan. As is tradition, the event includes exhibitions, watchmaking classes, and talks. Amongst the speakers will be Masayuki Hirota, an eminent Japanese watch journalist and the editor of Chronos Japan, who will be speaking about Grand Seiko. And DWW once again includes the Horology Forum, a series of panel discussions that take place daily. Panellists this year include journalists like Ariel Adams of aBlogtoWatch, watchmakers like Philippe Dufour and Stephen Forsey; brand chiefs including Karl-Friedrich Scheufele of Chopard, Jean-Claude Biver of LVMH, and Benoit Minitiens of Ressence; as well as watch collectors like San Francisco-based Jeffrey Kingston, and Aldis Hodge, an American actor who is also a jury member of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve. And naturally the speakers’ roster also includes prominent local personalities, including collector Hamdan Al Hudaidi and Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi, chief commercial officer of Seddiqi Holding, the parent company of DWW’s organiser. A panel session at DWW 2018 And some newcomers Rolex is taking part for the first time in DWW, and bringing along with it the Oyster Perpetual Submariner exhibition, a series of displays within a sh...

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How to justify your watch purchases to your partner, a new series, starting with ‘The Heirloom Defence’ Time+Tide
Nov 14, 2019

How to justify your watch purchases to your partner, a new series, starting with ‘The Heirloom Defence’

MEET THE ENABLER: Defending the indefensible is a tiresome but necessary business. Obviously, we understand that you’ve found a new must-have watch to add to your collection (congratulations!). But the next step, making it happen, may not always fly with non-believers whose reactions will likely range from horror to derision to divorce. That’s where The … ContinuedThe post How to justify your watch purchases to your partner, a new series, starting with ‘The Heirloom Defence’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Auction Report: Albert Piguet Double-Balance Resonance Watch Sells for CHF250,000 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Nov 12, 2019

Auction Report: Albert Piguet Double-Balance Resonance Watch Sells for CHF250,000

One of the most interesting lots in the second instalment of Masterworks of Time at Sotheby’s that just concluded was a seemingly unassuming pocket watch with an estimate of just 7,000-10,000 Swiss francs. But the pocket watch contains a movement with a single gear train driving double balance wheels linked by a differential, constructed to keep time according to the principles of resonance. This is one of the very movements that inspired Philippe Dufour to create the Duality. And its appearance at auction comes at an opportune time, with F.P. Journe going to launch an entirely new Resonance movement in 2020. The Philippe Dufour Duality Mr Piguet of Lemania The movement was made by Albert G. Piguet (1914-2000), a noted watchmaker who finished the movement in 1933, just before graduating from the École d’Horlogerie in Le Sentier, then the premiere watchmaking school in the Vallee de Joux. He joined movement maker Lemania after graduation, and eventually rose to technical director. Piguet stayed in that role from 1948 to 1980, during which he helped develop numerous calibres, including the important CH27 chronograph movement that later became the cal. 321 found in the early Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, and also the cal. 2310 used by the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Piguet’s 1933 pocket watch movement is just one of six produced between 1932 and 1934 by students at the watchmaking school, working under the tutelage of headmaster Marcel Builleumi...

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Only Watch 2019 Post-Auction Thoughts: Smashing Records For A Great Cause Plus The $31 Million Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime’s Record Grab On Video Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime’s Record Grab Nov 11, 2019

Only Watch 2019 Post-Auction Thoughts: Smashing Records For A Great Cause Plus The $31 Million Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime’s Record Grab On Video

The buzz around Geneva over the entire week was nothing if not intense: Only Watch 2019 was about to set some records, and people wanted to witness it. Elizabeth Doerr shares the palpable excitement plus a video of the moment Patek Philippe set its $31 million record and more here.

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Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic One sold for a ridiculous amount at Only Watch 2019 Time+Tide
Tudor s Black Bay Ceramic Nov 11, 2019

Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic One sold for a ridiculous amount at Only Watch 2019

If history is anything to go by, we shouldn’t have been surprised at news coming out of Only Watch 2019 that Tudor’s entry into the charitable auction, the Black Bay Ceramic One, had sold for a staggering 350,000 CHF ($515,000 AUD). In fact, for Tudor’s third pièce unique entered into Only Watch to do anything … ContinuedThe post Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic One sold for a ridiculous amount at Only Watch 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Auction Report: What Went Down at Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet chief executive Francois-Henri Bennahmias Nov 11, 2019

Auction Report: What Went Down at Only Watch 2019

Only Watch 2019 is the biggest watch auction ever – and it was the most exciting sale in a notably quiet Geneva auction season – with 50 lots selling for 38.59m Swiss francs. The last Only Watch auction in 2017 raised a mere 9.29m francs in comparison. And of course 31m francs of that came from just one watch, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in steel, which went to a determined buyer from Asia bidding via telephone with Wei-Ting Jud of Christie’s London. Presided over by Christie’s jewellery department head Rahul Kadakia, the best watch auctioneer who is not a watch specialist, the saleroom in Geneva’s Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues was jam-packed, so full even Audemars Piguet chief executive Francois-Henri Bennahmias had to stand. And there was even a famous face in attendance, or at least in the same building – former Thai prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra, who is a a known watch collector, was spotted in the lobby of the hotel. Luc Pettavino, who founded only watch after his late son was stricken by Duchenne muscular dystrophy, the very disease that Only Watch raises funds to research a cure. Photo – Alex Teuscher Photography Though the Patek Philippe accounted for most of the sale proceeds – which all go to a medical charity – the other 49 lots in the auction still sold for an average of 155,000 Swiss francs, which is well above the average for a watch auction. The Antiquorum watch auction that took place a day later, for instance, averaged only...

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Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction X SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1463 Nov 10, 2019

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction X

With the Double Signed theme auction out of the way, here are a few highlights from Phillips’ Geneva watch auction, including a Lange Zeitwerk that might be a value buy, and a steel Rolex Day-Date prototype. Lot 145 – Lange Zeitwerk in rose gold The Zeitwerk is unquestionably a modern classic – notably, it is probably the most reliable digital display watch on the market – and is relatively good value on the secondary market, selling for a chunk off retail. This example is in rose gold, and is complete with all boxes and paperwork. It was first sold in 2011, and obviously wasn’t worn much sine then. The estimate is just 20,000-40,000 Swiss francs. Lot 179 – Patek Philippe ref. 1463 in steel One of the top lots in the sale, this is a ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi”, an early water-resistant chronograph by Patek Philippe. But this is in steel, of which only 67 are known, with a two-tone dial, furthering reducing the number known to just 17. The watch is in excellent condition, with a sharply preserved case and original dial, although the dial might have been cleaned in the distant past. The estimate is 300,000-600,000 francs. Lot 209 – Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in yellow gold The ref. 1518 is a landmark, being the first serially produced chronograph with perpetual calendar. This is a good example of the ref. 1518, almost the quintessential version of the model with a yellow gold case. It is clean and in good condition, albeit showing a little bit of age on the dial,...

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Smart Money: 5 of the best buys from Only Watch 2019 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref 6300A Nov 9, 2019

Smart Money: 5 of the best buys from Only Watch 2019

Most of the hype around the results of Only Watch 2019 has been wholly and solely squared at the monumental, record-breaking price achieved by the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A, and it’s pretty easy to understand why … it sold for $31 million CHF (roughly $52 million AUD)! However, away from the white noise … ContinuedThe post Smart Money: 5 of the best buys from Only Watch 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Top 3 most expensive watches sold at Only Watch 2019, also featuring Audemars Piguet and F.P. Journe Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Nov 9, 2019

Top 3 most expensive watches sold at Only Watch 2019, also featuring Audemars Piguet and F.P. Journe

Patek Philippe’s entry into Only Watch 2019, the one-of-a-kind stainless steel Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A, has just smashed, in fact obliterated, the record for the most expensive watch ever sold at auction. But it wasn’t just the Patek that stretched into the seven-figure stratosphere at the charitable auction last night, as two other … ContinuedThe post Top 3 most expensive watches sold at Only Watch 2019, also featuring Audemars Piguet and F.P. Journe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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WATCH DISASTERS #1 – Ken’s prodigal GMT-Master II Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2019

WATCH DISASTERS #1 – Ken’s prodigal GMT-Master II

Watch Disasters is a new series on Time+Tide that describes, in chilling detail, incidences when owning an expensive watch goes wrong. This is not going to be comfortable reading, so prepare for the pain. Admittedly, this is a bit of a soft start. The ‘prodigal’ in the title gives it away. If you have a … ContinuedThe post WATCH DISASTERS #1 – Ken’s prodigal GMT-Master II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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