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Big Bang Hublot

Hublot's 2005 "Art of Fusion" chronograph that reshaped 21st-century luxury.

The revitalising energy of the Tudor Black Bay ref. 79220N Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay ref 79220N Feb 22, 2020

The revitalising energy of the Tudor Black Bay ref. 79220N

Editor’s note: The Tudor Black Bay symbolised a new chapter in the journey of the Rolex-owned watchmaker, with the decision to look back into their archives to build their future collections proving a very popular one. Inspired by the Tudor Submariners of the mid-1950s, the Tudor Black Bay ref. 79220N is a thoroughly modern interpretation … ContinuedThe post The revitalising energy of the Tudor Black Bay ref. 79220N appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tech billionaire chic: the watches of the tech sector elite Time+Tide
Feb 21, 2020

Tech billionaire chic: the watches of the tech sector elite

Billionaires … they’re a rare breed. In fact, according to a report from CNBC in 2019, out of the earth’s total population of roughly 7.7 billion people, there are just 2604 that can claim to have 10 figures in their bank account. More interesting still is that this same report posited that America has more … ContinuedThe post Tech billionaire chic: the watches of the tech sector elite appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands on with the Baltic Aquascaphe WatchAdvice
Baltic Aquascaphe Introduction French micro-brand Feb 20, 2020

Hands on with the Baltic Aquascaphe

Introduction French micro-brand Baltic first popped up on my radar back in 2019 after making a splash on social media, and across watch media. What caught my attention was how this entry-level brand seamlessly entered the collection’s of several high profile watch collectors, and onto the wrist’s of a couple of highly-respected watch editors. Intrigued initially by the Instagram hype and drawn in by the rave reviews from trusted friends, I knew it was time to take a closer look. Being an unapologetic fan of the dive watch who was entering the peak of Australian Summer, I thought it only appropriate to get my hands on the Baltic Aquascaphe. Of the combinations offered, I opted for the Black and Silver, with both a bracelet and additional rubber strap. The Dial and Hands Interestingly within Baltic’s Aquascaphe collection, the brand offers two dial variants – a grain finish and a sunray finish. The grainy dial (WHICH THIS ONE HAS) adds lots of texture, which combined with the ‘sandwich style’ markers, brings a lot of character to an otherwise subtle watch. The cleanliness of the white super-luminova markers offer contrast to the textured dial. The double-domed sapphire crystal gives perfect clarity as you gaze at the pebbly black dial, whilst oozing vintage charm. Baltic’s use of sapphire extends to the unidirectional black bezel to add some extra-depth, and emulate the bakelite bezels of yesteryear. The curved sapphire crystal across these two important watch ...

Up Close: Keaton Myrick ‘1 of 30’ Wristwatch SJX Watches
Rolex which he joined after Feb 19, 2020

Up Close: Keaton Myrick ‘1 of 30’ Wristwatch

An American watchmaker who unveiled his first watch in 2013, Keaton Myrick has spent the subsequent years refining the 1 of 30, a wristwatch crafted with traditional, artisanal methods. Since then the 38-year old has delivered several examples of the 30-piece edition, each customised to the client’s request in terms of design; the watch pictured is numbered “30/30” and is largely stock, with the only custom option being the engine-turned seconds sub-dial. Based in Sisters, a town in the Pacific Northwest state of Oregon, Keaton studied watchmaking at the Lititz Watch Technicum (LWT), a school in Pennsylvania established by Rolex, which he joined after graduation. After several years there, he returned to his hometown to set up a workshop specialising in repair and restoration. 1 in 30, numbered “30/30” Keaton’s time at LWT was the genesis of the 1 in 30. According to Keaton, each student at the LWT had to build a school watch based on the ETA Unitas 6497 (or the related 6498), a project that evolved into the 1 in 30. With inspiration from independent watchmakers like Philippe Dufour as well as complicated vintage pocket watches – the historical inspiration is particularly evident in the winding click – Keaton modified and refined the common and robust Unitas movement to create the impressive and original cal. 29.30 inside the 1 in 30. Cal. 29.30 Being easily available and reliable, the Unitas 6497 and 6498 are popular base movements for independent watch...

Breguet Introduces the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 Blue Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Feb 18, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 Blue Enamel

Slim, elegantly and typically Breguet in style – the gently off-centre dial echoes asymmetric pocket watches – the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 was originally launched with a guilloche dial, before being given a white, fired enamel dial. And last year Breguet debuted a striking variant with a fully skeletonised movement decorated in a surprisingly elaborate manner. For 2020 Breguet has returned to its traditional look, albeit with a twist: the dial has been transformed into deep blue enamel for a boutique-only edition. Similar to the makeover applied to the time-and-date Classique 5177, the blue dial is grand feu enamel – vitreous enamel set by firing it in an oven at temperatures over 800°C. The dial starts as a disc of solid gold, which is then painted with a mixture of enamel powder, water and oil.  It’s then baked in an oven, and the process repeated several times until the deep blue colour is achieved. The surface is then ground down by hand to give it a mirrored finish, before undergoing a final trip to the oven. The star and lozenge minute track is inspired by the same on vintage pocket watches Then the markings on the dial – including the symbols of the minute track and Breguet numerals – are printed in powdered silver, which gives them a granular, metallic sheen. And faintly etched by laser just above the tourbillon is the Breguet “secret” signature, a feature devised in the 19th century to distinguish genuine Breguet pocket watches from ...

Gunmetal greatness with the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V Editor’s note Feb 18, 2020

Gunmetal greatness with the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V

Editor’s note: The one-watch collection is forever in the back of the minds of watch collectors, as a consideration of how one’s tastes might look when reduced to a single timepiece. A fun extension of this thought is what one might wear during the apocalypse, and you’d be hard pressed to arrive at a better … ContinuedThe post Gunmetal greatness with the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ep. #163: Talking Timex… Our New Darling? Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex Our New Darling? Feb 17, 2020

Ep. #163: Talking Timex… Our New Darling?

Timex has been on a roll since the release of the Marlin a little while back. Since then, the watch world has gone completely nuts over reissues like the Q and vintage-inspired models like the recent M79. Join Mike and Kaz as they run through Timex's greatest hits, analyze the brand's overall strategy, and consider adding Timex models to their own personal collections.

Sinn 104 Everyday Perfection? WatchAdvice
Sinn 104 Everyday Perfection? Sinn Feb 15, 2020

Sinn 104 Everyday Perfection?

Sinn. Unashamedly built for purpose, where function trumps form. The German brand is known for creating over-engineered tool watches that will last the wearer a lifetime, but perhaps not so necessary for everyday life, job depending of course.  While the aviation aesthetic ties are strong and well documented, Sinn has expanded in recent years to entice a broader consumer with options that are more suited to civilian/everyday life. The Sinn104 StSa I W, being a collective hybrid of aviation and diver resulting from this design direction.  CASE:  The 104 could be considered mostly a modern interpretation of a pilots watch with a sprinkle of diver DNA. The highly polished, stainless steel case and lugs scream dressy attire, yet the angular, sharp lugs give a slightly more aggressive demeanour.  Small crown guards are provided to add some protection to the more than adequate signed crown, which at times can dig into the wrist with specific movements if not worn higher on the wrist.  On the reverse, a sapphire display case back reveals the SW220-1 movement along with some minor decorations such as gold rotor and blued screws. The drawback here being the 38hr power reserve which at times can be a reach and winding of the movement is…not the smoothest. The tech inside includes; anti-shock, anti-magnetism and a hefty 200mWR which puts other “sports watch” to shame.  DIAL:  There is no doubt the 104 is built for one purpose…legibility. The beautiful white glossy dial...

Sinn Introduces the 158 Chronograph “Bund Remake” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Because Feb 14, 2020

Sinn Introduces the 158 Chronograph “Bund Remake”

The new Sinn 158 is unusual in being a remake of a vintage watch originally produced by another company, but due to a quirk of history, simultaneously a Sinn. In the 1960s and 1970s Heuer supplied the German armed forces, or Bundeswehr, with the 1550 SG flyback chronograph. Though typically military in style, the Heuer 1550 SG was fairly distinctive, with a black-coated rotating bezel and oversized sub-dials. A favourite remake In the 1980s, Sinn was contracted by the Bundeswehr to refurbish the 1550 SG watches, resulting in some having a Sinn-branded dial. At the same time, decommissioned or surplus watches were also acquired by Sinn, which then sold them to civilians. Having become something of a cult favourite due to its design, size, and affordability, the Heuer 1550 SG has been the subject of several past remakes by Sinn. Named the Sinn 155, the earliest remake was for the Japanese market in 2007, and later editions included a 155 for German department store Manufactum. A Heuer 1550 SG “Bund” from the 1970s. Photo – TAG Heuer Because of its hands, the 158 is the most modern-looking of the remakes, but still retains all of the key elements of the original, most notably the four screws to secure the inner case to the outer case, as well as the flat step where the lugs meet the bezel. Like the original, the 158 has a bead-blasted steel case with a bidirectional, black-coated aluminium bezel. The case is 43 mm like the 1550 SG, but slightly thicker at 15.15 mm high ...

Hands-On: Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT SJX Watches
Montblanc Feb 13, 2020

Hands-On: Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT

With an annual output of just over four million watches, Tissot is Switzerland’s largest watchmaker by volume, with the bulk of its watches being affordable and quartz. But it has also carved out a niche with equally affordable mechanical watches starting at a bit under US$400 for the Swissmatic (a close relative of the Swatch Sistem51 movement). One step up is the Powermatic 80, an automatic movement that more closely resembles a traditional calibre – with more metal components and less plastic bits. A complicated model within the family, if it can be called that, is the Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT. It’s a dual time zone automatic starting at just US$875 – a value proposition that is also unusual in being one of the few GMT watches price below US$1,000. Chemin des Tourelles is the street in Le Locle where Tissot has had its factory since 1907 (though the brand was founded in 1853), sitting beside the facilities of Mido, Montblanc, and Vulcain. Unsurprisingly, the Chemin des Tourelles GMT is traditionally styled, though surprisingly large; the collection also includes a similarly affordable time-only automatic as well as a chronograph. The case is simple in form but appealing, with a surprising degree of detailing. The look is enhanced by the polished bevel on the outside edge of the lugs, which also have a notch where they join the case. And the case and bezel also have contrasting brushes and polished surfaces, making the whole more visually in...

Up Close: Voutilainen Vingt-8 ‘Blue Pearl’ 44 mm SJX Watches
Voutilainen Feb 11, 2020

Up Close: Voutilainen Vingt-8 ‘Blue Pearl’ 44 mm

The highly-regarded Voutilainen Vingt-8 has a 39 mm case as standard, along with a dazzling variety of dials and additional complications, from a retrograde date to an inverted movement. But one of the more interesting variants is the simple-but-enormous oversized Vingt-8. Originally introduced in 2017, the extra-large, 44 mm Vingt-8 is available as a custom order, with the most recent example being the Vingt-8 ‘Blue Pearl’, one of the few Voutilainen watches with a mother-of-pearl dial. The 44 mm case… With an enlarged movement to fit The oversized Vingt-8 has been produced in a range of case metals, including steel, but this example has a platinum case, which means an impressive heft, the kind of weight you rarely find on highly-finished, classical wristwatches. But it also means the watch feels heavy on the wrist, which can be good or bad depending on taste. Importantly – and this is probably the most important design change – the lug width has been widened to 22 mm, compared to just 20 mm on the very first oversized watch. This gives the watch ideal proportions – the new case design needs nothing more. Visually the watch is light and informal. The mother of pearl is a pale, even blue that is almost luminous and reveals nuances up close. It gives the watch a cool colour palette that’s more restrained than the average Voutilainen, which tends to have an elaborately decorated dial. Pearl’s progress The first watch with such a dial was the 2-Eight, the lad...

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel Feb 4, 2020

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel

With the Freak being the undisputed flagship complication of Ulysse Nardin – as well as a historically important watch – many of the brand’s other technical accomplishments often go under the radar. One intriguing offering that hasn’t gotten much attention: the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Despite the somewhat dull name, the Tourbillon Free Wheel is a compelling reinterpretation of a mystery clock – where the mechanics are artfully hidden and exposed for visual effect – that is both fascinating and exotic. The Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel with an aventurine dial While the base model of the Executive collection features a largely conventional, open-worked movement, the Tourbillon Free Wheel takes things a step further by elevating the crucial parts of the movement like the barrel, tourbillon regulator, and gear train for the power reserve. In fact, most of the components are “floating” – the movement boasts a flying tourbillon, a “flying” gear train and power reserve indicator, as well as a “floating” barrel. At the same time, the construction is inverted, with parts that are usually hidden sitting exposed, and vice versa. As a result, the tourbillon and power reserve display appear to operate in isolation, with no obvious connection to the rest of the movement. Floating and flying minimalism While much of the gearing is hidden underneath the dial – which doubles up as the base plate – most of the moving parts are “floating” –...

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Huracán Performante: Serious High-Performance Synergy With Lamborghini – Reprise Quill & Pad
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Huracán Performante Serious Feb 2, 2020

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Huracán Performante: Serious High-Performance Synergy With Lamborghini – Reprise

Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini have a special relationship: the watches that have so far come from this still relatively young collaboration have not only been impressive but also suck you into the world of Lamborghini without a car even being in sight. It is almost like the watchmakers at Roger Dubuis have infused this watch with motor oil and replaced the ticking of the escapement with the growl of an Italian high-performance engine. And the Excalibur Huracán Performante is all the evidence you need!

Great ‘Grams: A titanium DOXA and a Compax close-up Time+Tide
Doxa Jan 30, 2020

Great ‘Grams: A titanium DOXA and a Compax close-up

Welcome back to Great ’Grams, where I pick my favourite Instagram posts of the last week and, my word, were there some great stories that hit the feed. One of the coolest I saw was from Jason Heaton, a watch writer and scuba diver, who was selling a very special DOXA to raise funds for … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: A titanium DOXA and a Compax close-up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Limited Editions SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 30, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Limited Editions

Originally unveiled as a sub-brand of Seiko in 1960 dedicated entirely to high-precision wristwatches – and only sold in Japan for most of that time – Grand Seiko has now become an independent brand. This year is the 60th anniversary of its founding, and the occasion is being commemorated with a quartet of limited editions (with perhaps more to come later in the year), including two quartz watches powered by the 9F85, a new, top-of-the-line quartz movement. All of the anniversary editions feature a dial in dark blue, one of Grand Seiko’s signature colours, albeit executed in different materials or finishes, ranging from a stamped pattern to mother of pearl. All of the men’s models also have a red seconds hand, creating a red and blue aesthetic that’s uncommon for Grand Seiko. The flagship 60th anniversary watch is the Heritage Collection Hi-Beat 36000 Limited Edition (SBGH281), a variant of the 44GS “modern reinterpretation” that features broad, mirror-polished case flanks that are steeply sloped, a distinguishing characteristic of the 44GS case style. It’s powered by the 9S85, an automatic movement operated at 36,000 beats per hour, hence the “Hi-Beat” label.  Only 1,500 will be made. The Hi-Beat limited edition also features a gold “GS” logo on the dial The other mechanical model in the anniversary line-up is the Elegance Collection Women’s Automatic Limited Edition (STGK015), powered by the 9S27 automatic movement. Its dial is dark-blue mother...

13 of the best watches on bracelets from 2019 Time+Tide
Jan 28, 2020

13 of the best watches on bracelets from 2019

Watches on bracelets are great for a multitude of reasons. They are both durable and comfortable, relatively easy to adjust and aren’t ruined if you go swimming with them … all pointing to it being hard to go wrong if you get a watch with a bracelet. Besides, it’s always better to buy your watch … ContinuedThe post 13 of the best watches on bracelets from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 6: A limited edition Nick Hacko born in Sydney Time+Tide
Jan 26, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 6: A limited edition Nick Hacko born in Sydney

This watch comes with a moving personal story. The first of a run of 200 ‘Mark 1’ models that are keenly being awaited by their future owners, it was actually a present from Sydney watchmaker Nicholas Hacko to his wife: “It is a very special watch for her, and she is parting with it in … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 6: A limited edition Nick Hacko born in Sydney appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Military 1938 SJX Watches
Longines Heritage Military 1938 Longines Jan 26, 2020

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Military 1938

Longines has been cranking out vintage remakes at a furious pace over the last year, most notably the Heritage Classic “sector” dial and Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946. All of them share the appealing qualities of being well-priced and fairly authentic remakes. The latest to be released is the Heritage Military 1938, a remake of an oversized watch Longines produced in the 1930s, often for Eastern European markets. It’s as good as the other remakes in terms of value – Longines excel at making value-for-money watches – but falls a bit flat with the dial. The ref. 4092 The inspiration for the new remake is the ref. 4092, a wristwatch that is exceptionally large for its time, with its steel case measuring 43 mm in diameter. Such extra-large watches with military-style dials appear to have mostly been sold to Eastern Europe; Zipper, the Longines agent in Poland at the time is often named as the recipient in archive extracts. A vintage ref. 4092 from the Longines Museum (left) next to the Heritage Military 1938 The rarity and remarkable size of the ref. 4092, along with its appealing military-style dial, makes it a fairly valuable watch today. Even an example with a severely-aged dial sold for 23,750 Swiss francs at Phillips in 2017. So unlike other modern-day remakes that are enlarged versions of vintage originals, the Heritage Military 1938 is just right; it is exactly the same size as the original, but priced at just a tenth of the auction result. The remake Th...

The end of the road – Luke’s exit watch Time+Tide
Jan 24, 2020

The end of the road – Luke’s exit watch

You’ll be familiar with the misadventures of Spinal Tap over their 1982 album, Smell The Glove. The original cover artwork is problematic. Featuring the image of “a greased, naked woman on all fours wearing a dog collar”, the cover is knocked back by retailers who flatly refuse to display such a sexist image. Without the … ContinuedThe post The end of the road – Luke’s exit watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 5: A Hublot Classic Fusion, made unique Time+Tide
Hublot Classic Fusion made unique Jan 23, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 5: A Hublot Classic Fusion, made unique

Another watch conceived from scratch for the ‘Watch & Act!’ Auction, the Classic Fusion ‘Watch & Act!’ Unique Piece features a ceramic case, carbon fibre bezel and a shimmering blue dial. The case back is engraved with the words ‘Unique Piece’. Before we go on, here’s a quick primer on the Classic Fusion line: the … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 5: A Hublot Classic Fusion, made unique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Is this Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 a perfect dress watch? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 Jan 21, 2020

HANDS-ON: Is this Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 a perfect dress watch?

Unquestionably one of Grand Seiko’s most surprising releases of 2019, the SBGK additions to the Elegance Collection had all the makings of a perfect dress watch. There was just one problem, however - if I’m being really finickity, the dial options that were made available upon release were perhaps slightly out of keeping with that of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is this Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 a perfect dress watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: A beginner’s guide to Grand Seiko Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Editor’s note Ever wanted Jan 18, 2020

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: A beginner’s guide to Grand Seiko

Editor’s note: Ever wanted to know why Grand Seiko is so revered in the horological hemisphere? Well, this video perfectly sums up why the doyen of Japanese watchmaking is considered the crème de la crème on so many levels. So, if you’ve got the time, sit back and enjoy an explanation as to why Grand … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: A beginner’s guide to Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar China Edition SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jan 17, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar China Edition

Audemars Piguet has just taken the covers off the seventh and latest country-specific Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, after the editions for Hong Kong, Thailand, Switzerland, Indonesia, Japan, and Latin America – this time, it’s for the Chinese market. Launched just three months after the debut of the gorgeous skeleton version in black ceramic, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar China Limited Edition is a first for Audemars Piguet, being the only Royal Oak perpetual calendar to date in titanium. Though the material is novel, the size and finishing are identical to that of the standard model, which means 41 mm and gorgeously contrasting brushed and polished surfaces from end to end. The dial is dark grey, and engine-turned with the signature chequerboard tapisserie guilloche of the Royal Oak. It has the week-of-the-year indicator in red, traditionally an auspicious colour in Chinese culture and one that’s synonymous with the Lunar New Year. Similarly, the presentation box for the watch is finished in red, instead of the usual dark green. Another reference to Chinese culture is the limited edition size of 88 – “8” is phonetically similar to “prosper” in many Chinese dialects, making it a most desirable number. Unusually, the China edition was developed with the input of horological influencer Austen Chu, better known as Horoloupe on Instagram, who “contributed towards the overall aesthetics” according to Audemars Piguet. Michael Friedman, Head of Complication...