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Introducing – The Easter-Ready H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Side Up Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Apr 15, 2025

Introducing – The Easter-Ready H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Side Up

Cosmic Green, Funky Blue, Swiss Mad Red, Citrus Green… Indie brand H. Moser & Cie. is no stranger to bold, expressive colour. These vibrant hues have graced the dials of the Pioneer Centre Seconds series alongside Arctic Blue and Blue Lagoon. Now, Moser adds an Easter-related hue, or rather sun-related, for the new dial colour […]

Hands On: Zenith G.F.J., Calibre 135 Revived SJX Watches
Zenith G.F.J Calibre 135 Revived Apr 12, 2025

Hands On: Zenith G.F.J., Calibre 135 Revived

Zenith has finally started to look beyond the El Primero with the G.F.J., which features a new version of the storied chronometer cal. 135. Conceived to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, the G.F.J. moniker is a reference to the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, whose initials grace the facade at the manufacture in Le Locle. This new model marks the return of the famous movement phased out about 60 years ago. But production has officially restarted, and the new cal. 135 features modern upgrades that differentiate it from the vintage original used in the Calibre 135 Observatoire introduced in 2022. The “new old stock” cal. 135 that Zenith dusted off for the 2022 edition. Image – Zenith The movement returns to market in a 160-piece limited edition in platinum and features an elaborate blue dial that that is made from lapis lazuli and mother of pearl. For about double the price, owners can request a full platinum bracelet, which endows the watch with impressive heft. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the cal. 135 and wished Zenith would bring it back. That said, I was not convinced by the first stock images I saw of the G.F.J. I felt like the dial was overwrought, and the basketweave pattern on the movement was distracting. Having spent some time with the watch, I would soften my criticism of the dial as it’s more subtle on the wrist and up close the details are finely done. Moreover, subsequent non-anniversary versions will likely have these details toned...

Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025 Fratello
Apr 11, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025

Another Friday, another list! After a week without a Top 5, we are back with a new one. Watches and Wonders 2025 is over. Now that the dust clouds have settled, it’s time to talk about favorites and the best of the show. In our current Fratello Favorites series, you can read all about our […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025 to read the full article.

De Bethune Turns to Swizz Beatz for Kind of Two GMT SJX Watches
De Bethune Turns Apr 10, 2025

De Bethune Turns to Swizz Beatz for Kind of Two GMT

The third iteration of De Bethune’s swivelling, double-faced watch is the Kind of Two GMT “Season 3” conceived in collaboration with American rapper and watch enthusiast Swizz Beatz. Powered by the hand-wound DB2517 movement, the watch indicates one time zone on the front and another on the reverse, with both sides able to be worn face up thanks to patented, pivoting “floating” lugs. Initial thoughts The Kind of Two series employs a useful reversible case, cleverly using the “floating” lug construction of the DB28 to create a double-faced watch. Here one dial is traditional with blued steel hands, and the other an open-worked face revealing the movement that also has a regulator-style display for the second time zone. The clever approach with a unique movement is typical De Bethune, although this loses some novelty as the third double-faced watch in the De Bethune line-up. The Kind of Two GMT is definitely one of the most elaborate two time zone watches on the market, but at over US$200,000, it is pricey for a GMT, even by the standards of independent watchmaking (Voutilainen’s GMT, for instance, costs less). Two-faced The “Season 3” edition adopts a restrained palette of black and gold with blue accents. The 43.3 mm by 11.4 mm case is titanium and zirconium, with blued steel hands and a blue-and-black guilloche dial centre on the front showing local time. Notably, this dial includes a jumping seconds that is driven by a secondary escapement visible on ...

First Look – The New Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm with Ice Blue Dial Monochrome
Frederique Constant focuses Apr 4, 2025

First Look – The New Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm with Ice Blue Dial

Alpina, a subsidiary of the Citizen Group since 2016 – specializes in sports watches, while its sister brand Frederique Constant focuses on accessible luxury. Its core collections, the Startimer, Seastrong, and Alpiner, embody the adventurous spirit of aviation, sea exploration, and mountaineering. Within the Alpiner lineup, the Extreme series includes a chronograph, regulator, skeleton models, […]

First Look – The Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon Now in Ice Blue Monochrome
Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon Apr 3, 2025

First Look – The Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon Now in Ice Blue

The Alpine Eagle draws inspiration from the 1980s St. Moritz series, Chopard’s take on the then-trending luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet-a trend that has regained momentum. The Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon joined the collection in 2022, following the introduction of the chronograph and high-frequency models. While there’s always room to discuss influences […]

Introducing – The New Bremont Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT Mono-Pusher Monochrome
Bremont Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT Apr 3, 2025

Introducing – The New Bremont Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT Mono-Pusher

Following the polarizing launch of its Terra Nova series last year, Bremont builds on the success of its MB aviation-inspired watches with the introduction of the new Altitude series. At the top of the lineup sits the Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT Mono-Pusher, featuring a sophisticated complication module developed by Agenhor. The new Altitude Perpetual Calendar […]

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds In Black And Blue Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Apr 3, 2025

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds In Black And Blue

One brand stands out to me in the avalanche of new releases during Watches and Wonders this year. Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a remarkable series of new Reversos displaying an extensive range of models. The stellar Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in pink gold on the mesh bracelet is the absolute standout. For me, it is […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds In Black And Blue to read the full article.

[VIDEO] The Tudor Goes Deep with Pelagos Ultra Worn & Wound
Tudor Goes Deep Apr 2, 2025

[VIDEO] The Tudor Goes Deep with Pelagos Ultra

Tudor’s most technical dive range receives its most technical entry yet. Over the last few years, we’ve seen the Pelagos expand quite dramatically, starting with the introduction of the FXD series, which has ranged from military-spec via the M.N. to carbon fiber chronographs, to a GMT, to standard varieties, as well as the smaller-wrist-compatible Pelagos 39. For 2025, however, we’re seeing a return or a close relative to the original Pelagos, with a 1000m variant called the Pelagos Ultra. At double the water resistance of the original, 1000m is undoubtedly the headline of the Ultra, but there are many subtle changes to the design that give this new watch its own personality. First, the case is a touch larger at 43mm in diameter (vs 42mm for the original), 52mm lug-to-lug (my measure), and 14.8mm thick. While these dimensions sound imposing, they were more tolerable than expected on the wrist, largely because of the lightweight grade 2 titanium construction. The spacing between the dial and the crystal was reduced to keep the case relatively thin, or at least not thicker than the original. As such, the rehaut was redesigned to be flat and a touch wider. While I am a bit remiss to see the steeply angled rehaut with cutouts of the original get cut, as I found it a particularly enjoyable design that added a contemporary and aggressive edge to the watch, the new version is less distracting and allows for more dial space. In turn, the applied hour markers and hands are la...

First Look – The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition Monochrome
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Apr 2, 2025

First Look – The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition

Introduced in 2018, the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere series brought a unique world-time complication to the forefront, featuring two rotating globes depicting the northern and southern hemispheres. Designed with a distinctive vintage tool-watch aesthetic, it was Montblanc’s answer to the ultimate explorer’s timepiece – a rugged and reliable companion for mountaineering and outdoor adventures. Since its […]

First Look – The Incredibly Light Ulysse Nardin Diver (Air) Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Diver Air Switzerland might Apr 2, 2025

First Look – The Incredibly Light Ulysse Nardin Diver (Air)

Switzerland might be landlocked, but Ulysse Nardin, a young watchmaker from Le Locle, consolidated his reputation by producing precision marine chronometers. By the 1870s, the manufacture supplied more than 50 navies and merchant marine companies with chronometers to calculate longitude at sea. These days, Ulysse Nardin plays on its marine heritage with its classical Marine […]

Introducing – The New Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Monochrome
Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Apr 1, 2025

Introducing – The New Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer

For many years, the only two Nomos models that offered traveler-oriented functions were the Zurich Weltzeit (a.k.a Zurich Worldtimer) and the Tangomat GMT, which had airport codes to denote the 24 time zones. This year at Watches and Wonders, the Glashütte-based brand presents a new movement to power its Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer series, which […]

Zenith Reimagines Its Caliber 135 For The 21st Century Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Apr 1, 2025

Zenith Reimagines Its Caliber 135 For The 21st Century

The year 2025 marks 160 years since the founding of Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland, back in 1865. As watchmaking brands are wont to do, Zenith is commemorating this milestone by putting forward a watch for the occasion that’s representative of its storied history, as well as its own contemporary identity. Now, as Watches & Wonders 2025 kicks off, we are clear on how the brand aims to celebrate the occasion, and its chosen vehicle is a new collection inspired by Zenith’s own founder, complete with an update on its storied Caliber 135, which breathes fresh life into an old favorite movement. These are the conditions in which the rising star of the G.F.J. collection joins Zenith’s constellation. At the tail end of the 19th century, the mounting competition within the watch industry brought about a new standard of gauging the accuracy of movements, and watchmakers began employing observatory trials to signal to customers that their products were as accurate as possible. This was also at a time in which highly accurate timepieces were necessary for successful marine navigation. Before the COSC certification standards that are so rigidly defined today were coded, individual movements would be sent to observatories, where they would undergo testing procedures, as well as competitions for chronometry prices. Zenith details that it had been routinely entering chronometry trials as early as 1897. And, because a bit of healthy bragging is appropriate with brag-worthy achieveme...

Zenith Celebrates Its 160th Anniversary In Style With The New G.F.J. Fratello
Zenith Celebrates Apr 1, 2025

Zenith Celebrates Its 160th Anniversary In Style With The New G.F.J.

For a long time, Zenith kept us guessing about what its celebratory 160th-anniversary release would be. But if you know something about Zenith, the social media posts hinted at something special related to the brand’s rich history in observatory chronometer competitions. With the release of the Zenith G.F.J., the watchmaker from Le Locle brings its […] Visit Zenith Celebrates Its 160th Anniversary In Style With The New G.F.J. to read the full article.

Introducing – The Rolex 1908 Perpetual on a New Settimo Bracelet in Yellow Gold Monochrome
Rolex 1908 Perpetual Mar 31, 2025

Introducing – The Rolex 1908 Perpetual on a New Settimo Bracelet in Yellow Gold

With the discontinuation of Cellini collection, Rolex introduced the Perpetual 1908 series in 2023, blending classic aesthetics with cutting-edge watchmaking technology. Until now, these models powered by the Rolex calibre 7140 were exclusively available on leather straps. This year, Rolex expands the collection with a yellow gold version, now paired with the newly designed Settimo […]

First Look – The New Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum Monochrome
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP Mar 31, 2025

First Look – The New Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum

A contemporary reimagining of Chopard’s 1980s St. Moritz line, the Alpine Eagle collection debuted in 2019 and swiftly became a cornerstone of the brand’s sports watch lineup. Over the years, the series has expanded to include a variety of sizes, materials, and complications, solidifying its place among Chopard’s offerings. This year, among its latest releases, […]

Hands-on – Fam Al Hut Sets a New Benchmark for Chinese Independent Watchmaking with its Bi-Axis Tourbillon Monochrome
Mar 28, 2025

Hands-on – Fam Al Hut Sets a New Benchmark for Chinese Independent Watchmaking with its Bi-Axis Tourbillon

This article is a guest post by one of our readers and contributors to the Collector’s Series, a gentleman who prefers to remain anonymous but who’s very active on Instagram @winewhiskywatches. We’ve long suspected that Chinese cost structures might provide compelling competitive advantages for high-end watchmaking, assuming that a Chinese watchmaking brand could effectively establish […]

Christie’s to Sell Single-Owner Collection of 21st Century High Horology SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin are well represented but Mar 27, 2025

Christie’s to Sell Single-Owner Collection of 21st Century High Horology

Christie’s is continuing with its streak of single-owner watch collections into the 2025 season with Stories in Time. Made up of 160 watches – including a sizeable number of independents – the sale is the culmination of three decades of collecting by one collector. Representing 47 brands from A. Lange & Söhne to Voutilainen, the collection represents 21st century horology in all its diversity, capturing the evolution of contemporary watchmaking as it developed from the 1990s onwards. The watchmaking landscape Establishment brands like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin are well represented, but equally the independent watchmakers and brands out of the mainstream. While the brand with the largest number of pieces in the collection is Patek Philippe at 20, the second most numerous brand is De Bethune at 18. The line-up also includes nine watches by Greubel Forsey and seven from MB&F;, as well as a few examples of the Harry Winston Opus series. One of the nine Greubel Forsey watches in the sale, the Double Tourbillon 30° Edition Historique in platinum with an estimate of US$120,000-220,000 Almost every watch in the collection is in pristine condition and accompanied by the original boxes and paperwork, reflecting the collector’s meticulous approach. This collection will be offered at Christie’s sales across the world over the course of 2025, in Hong Kong, Dubai, Geneva, and New York in the eight auctions during the spring and autumn sales.  

Interview: Ilaria Resta, Chief Executive of Audemars Piguet SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Mar 26, 2025

Interview: Ilaria Resta, Chief Executive of Audemars Piguet

The chief executive of Audemars Piguet for just over a year now, Ilaria Resta leads the storied brand into its 150th year. In her short time at the helm, she has already overseen the opening of the expansive, vertically integrated Arc manufacture in Le Brassus as well as the first instalment of the brand’s anniversary celebrations. Prior to AP, she spent over 25 years in fast-moving consumer goods, first at Proctor & Gamble and then at Swiss fragrance and flavour specialist Firmenich, making her one of the rare outsiders at the top of Swiss watchmaking, a traditionally insular industry. We recently spoke to Ms Resta about balancing tradition and technology, collaborations, and why there will never be a Royal Oak Star Wheel. Along the way, she dropped a few tantalising hints as to what’s in store for the future, Ms Resta (right) at the recent opening of AP House Singapore, with member of the brand’s board of directors, Oliverio Bottinelli. Image – Audemars Piguet This interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Audemars Piguet is in Le Brassus, a town that’s in the historical heart of watchmaking. It’s the only brand of watchmaking’s “Holy Trinity” that’s not in Geneva. How do you think that makes AP special? Ilaria Resta (IR): First of all, we are there because we were born there. We decided not to move, and we will never move from our birthplace. It is a choice of being true to our legacy and to stay close to the manufacturing. For me, it’s ext...

New: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer Deployant
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer Mar 26, 2025

New: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer brings a fresh dimension to the Planet Ocean series, combining the robustness of a professional dive watch with the practicality of a worldtimer complication. Featuring a striking black ceramic case and a visually detailed dial that includes a laser-ablated Earth map, it caters to travelers and adventurers alike. The new additions come in two colors.

Introducing – A New Grey Colourway for the Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Monochrome
Union Glashütte Mar 24, 2025

Introducing – A New Grey Colourway for the Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph

Union Glashütte, a brand owned by the Swatch Group, is known for crafting reliable timepieces that blend emotional appeal with good value. One of the notable collections is the Belisar Chronograph series, which combines retro inspiration with modern performance and design. The latest addition to this lineup stays true to the specifications of its predecessors. […]

Hands-On With A Stealthy Trio Of Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronos Fratello
Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronos It Mar 21, 2025

Hands-On With A Stealthy Trio Of Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronos

It has been a while since we reviewed a Hamilton Intra-Matic, let alone a series of them. The brand’s classic chronograph is one of my favorite watches in its current catalog. The panda-dial version of the Intra-Matic Auto holds a special place in my heart. I wore that quite a bit before I wrote the […] Visit Hands-On With A Stealthy Trio Of Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronos to read the full article.

First Look – The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Aston Martin F1 Edition Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Aston Martin Mar 20, 2025

First Look – The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Aston Martin F1 Edition

Luxury sports watches and the thrilling world of F1 races are natural allies. Girard-Perregaux got a head start with its automotive ties in the 1930s, producing pocket watches for Shell. In 2021, Girard-Perregaux joined forces with the reputed British performance car manufacturer Aston Martin, leading to a series of double-branded watches. With two anniversaries on […]