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Results for GMT & World Time

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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

Introducing - Tutima Expands its Fleet with the Compact Flieger T5 in Titanium Monochrome
Tutima Aug 18, 2026

Introducing - Tutima Expands its Fleet with the Compact Flieger T5 in Titanium

Tutima, based in Glashütte, earned its wings in the 1940s with its military and pilot’s watches and, in 1941, produced Germany’s first two-pusher flyback chronograph (later referred to as the Flieger). In 2019, Tutima released a contemporary, less tool-oriented, time-and-date take on the Flieger. The latest model to join the squadron is the Flieger T5, […]

Introducing: Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Classic Series Hodinkee
Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Aug 18, 2026

Introducing: Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Classic Series

What We Know It may not always come as a surprise when Seiko releases a new collaboration, at least in the abstract. Still, it is always exciting to see just who Seiko has chosen to partner with, and what that partnership can turn into. This time, Seiko has paired itself with Tradman's Bonsai, a Japanese creative collective whose mission is to celebrate and continue exploring the traditional art of Japanese Bonsai through both the creation of Bonsai spaces and the pursuit of collaborations with brands in the street culture, fashion, and art worlds. The result here is the latest addition to Seiko's Presage line, Seiko's dressier alternative to other, more technical watch families likeProspex. It's also the line Seiko often uses to celebrate heritage Japanese aesthetics and artistry, making it a perfect canvas for Seiko to honor Bonsai, an art form that involves growing, cultivating, and shaping small-scale trees with rigorous dedication and precision. With this watch, Seiko has evoked Bonsai trees in several ways, most clearly with the introduction of a new dial color and texture. Inspired by the bark of aging pine trees, the new pattern gently spirals outward from the center of the dial and is paired with a deep green gradient treatment and a dual-curved sapphire crystal with an AR coating on the inside. A 38mm stainless steel case with a fluted bezel and yellow-gold-tone finish houses the dial and the watch's 6R51 movement, a time-only automatic from Seiko with a 72-hour ...

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up Hodinkee
Frederique Constant Rebuilds Aug 17, 2026

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up

I've always had a certain fascination with world timers—for one, it's a practical complication, but mostly because I love watching brands solve the problem of presenting a lot of information—text, numbers, data—and condensing it into a dial that actually works. When it works, it really works. So when I heard Frederique Constant was updating their Classic Worldtimer at Watches and Wonders this year, I was intrigued. The broader market is fascinated with world timers too. If the upper end is any indicator that world timers are trending, look at what the ref. 2523 "South America Map" Patek sold for a few months ago. Couple that with brands exploring different ways into the complication—our own Ben Clymer spent time in Geneva last fall and came back with lavish praise for a world timer from Andersen Genève, calling it the favorite thing he saw on the entire trip. But the big hiccup for me with world timers has always been simple: they're often quite expensive. World time, generally, was historically reserved for a brand's most exclusive references, in precious metals, running mid-five-figure to low-six-figure—only in recent years have brands like Nomos, Omega, Breitling, and IWC started offering steel versions, which dragged the entry point down to the mid-four-figure range. Frederique Constant has been chipping away at that problem for well over a decade now, and with the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture release at Watches and Wonders this year, I think they've crack...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-200 Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs Casio Aug 16, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-200

With the summer break still in full swing, it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. In today’s match-up, two watches that could have easily made for your perfect affordable summer watch. But that would also be selling them short, because they are great for daily wear at a friendly price. Daan’s pick this week is […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-200 to read the full article.

Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum Fratello
Aug 15, 2026

Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum

Last year, Thomas went hands-on with the HP Hercules Hand-Wound Double-Barreled. Today, I’m going to do exactly the same. However, this time the watch doesn’t feature a stainless-steel case but rather a fully polished tantalum one. As you might know, tantalum is an extremely dense metal, which makes the watch much heavier and also harder […] Visit Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum to read the full article.

Alpinist to Astron: Seiko Celebrates 145 Years SJX Watches
Seiko Celebrates 145 Years Kintaro Aug 14, 2026

Alpinist to Astron: Seiko Celebrates 145 Years

Kintaro Hattori is considered the father of the Japanese watch and clock industry, having opened K. Hattori & Co. in Tokyo 145 years ago. Hattori’s humble store eventually evolved into an empire that made Seiko the largest watch manufacturer in the world during the 1980s. To mark the anniversary, Seiko has dressed six of its greatest hits in regal “Edo purple” livery. The standouts include the compass-bezel Alpinist ref. HBC006 built the take on the Japanese Alps, the luxe titanium-and-ceramic Astron Dual-Time Chronograph ref. HAB011, and the spacefaring Rotocall ref. HFL001. Seiko Prospex Alpinist HBC006 Last year, Seiko’s iconic green-and-gilt Alpinist turned 30; this year it turns purple. The Alpinist line dates back to 1959 but this case style launched in 1995, designed by Shigeo Sakai — the same designer responsible for the amusing inflatable Seiko Airpro. The green-and-gilt colourway inspired by Mr Sakai’s Mini Cooper became a sales success, defying conventional wisdom that green watches are niche products. I can’t predict if that will hold true for purple, but with 7,000 units Seiko seems to think it will. The colour is certainly eye-catching, which will help it stand out on social media and boost collectibility. The US$$900 price tag helps too, making it a good value considering its solid specifications. Upmarket details include a Diashield-protected stainless steel case, a sapphire crystal with sapphire date magnifier, an unexpected 200 m test depth,...

The Top 5 Rolex Models From The 1990s Fratello
Rolex Models From Aug 14, 2026

The Top 5 Rolex Models From The 1990s

Friday is here, which means it’s time for another list! This week, we follow up on a discussion we had on Fratello Talks two weeks ago. In that episode, Robert-Jan, Nacho, and I discussed the ultimate decade for watches. RJ and I chose the nineties as our favorite decade for watches because new technology significantly […] Visit The Top 5 Rolex Models From The 1990s to read the full article.

Introducing - The MeisterSinger Edition Unitas 1Z Blue Monochrome
Meistersinger Edition Unitas 1Z Blue Aug 14, 2026

Introducing - The MeisterSinger Edition Unitas 1Z Blue

For 25 years, MeisterSinger’s signature single-hand watches encouraged a more relaxed perception of time, focusing on the broader flow of the day rather than its smallest divisions. Earlier this year, the German brand presented the Edition Unitas 1Z, a limited anniversary model that revived the original 2004 Edition 1Z, its first watch to feature a […]

Brew Introduces the Limited Edition Retrograph Stone Blend Worn & Wound
Brew Introduces Aug 12, 2026

Brew Introduces the Limited Edition Retrograph Stone Blend

Just last week, I wrote about the stone dial trend and how it’s all getting just a little tiresome. And while I certainly stand by my position, we have to acknowledge and accept that there will continue to be stone dial watches announced and released while the trend continues (or peters out) that are interesting and worth covering. Being able to hold two conflicting ideas in your head at the same time is an essential piece of being an adult, after all, and certainly it matters in the watch world as well, and is something we do all the time (we know buying watches is an objectively bad financial decision, we do it anyway, etc.).  With that being said, Brew has introduced a new watch with a stone dial that I think is actually very nice and not part of the crop of stone dial watches that we’ve seen as of late that appear to be haphazardly slapped together for the sake of capitalizing on an opportunity. The new Retrograph Stone Blend Automatic is a new limited edition featuring a pietersite stone dial inspired by the signature visual element of coffee culture: the moment when milk is poured into a coffee and begins to swirl and blend together.  Specifically, Brew says that the Stone Blend is meant to conjure the patterns created as milk is added to cold brew coffee, which of course is often served in a translucent glass that allows one to see the two liquids come together in a sometimes dramatic way. Who hasn’t been transfixed by this at one point or another? Pietersit...

Budget-Friendly With Vintage Charm: The Updated Wolbrook Skindiver 38 Automatic Fratello
Wolbrook Aug 12, 2026

Budget-Friendly With Vintage Charm: The Updated Wolbrook Skindiver 38 Automatic

It’s always nice when you run into an old acquaintance. A few years ago, I spent quite a bit of time on the Wolbrook website, as I really liked the brand’s Tropic-style rubber straps. To me, they were the perfect combination in terms of material and looks. During those visits, the brand’s watches caught my […] Visit Budget-Friendly With Vintage Charm: The Updated Wolbrook Skindiver 38 Automatic to read the full article.

Seiko Explores The Unique Art Of Bonsai In Its New Presage Classic HCC009J1 Fratello
Seiko Explores Aug 12, 2026

Seiko Explores The Unique Art Of Bonsai In Its New Presage Classic HCC009J1

Although it’s the heart of the summer break, Seiko is definitely not taking any time off. We have been enjoying a steady stream of releases from the Japanese brand. At Fratello, we are in the lucky position to see some of the new releases up front. The last time we were given a preview of […] Visit Seiko Explores The Unique Art Of Bonsai In Its New Presage Classic HCC009J1 to read the full article.

Seiko Turns Keisuke Takahashi’s Yellow RX-7 FD3S Into a Limited Initial D Chronograph WatchRider
Seiko Turns Keisuke Takahashi’s Yellow Aug 11, 2026

Seiko Turns Keisuke Takahashi’s Yellow RX-7 FD3S Into a Limited Initial D Chronograph

Seiko has returned to the world of Initial D with a new chronograph dedicated to Keisuke Takahashi and his yellow Mazda RX-7 FD3S. The model continues the manga’s 30th-anniversary celebrations after the earlier Takumi Fujiwara AE86 watch. Orders opened in Japan in early August 2026, while deliveries are scheduled to begin in late January 2027. Production is limited to 1,995 individually numbered watches, matching the year Initial D began serialization. The connection is immediately clear. This is not a standard Seiko with a small logo added to the dial. The complete colour scheme and several smaller details come from Keisuke’s car, while the official campaign artwork places the watch beside the driver and his RX-7. The Initial D collaboration links the Seiko chronograph directly to Keisuke Takahashi and his yellow RX-7 FD3S. Image: PREMICO. The yellow RX-7 on the wrist The bright yellow dial copies the most recognizable feature of Keisuke’s RX-7. A black tachymeter bezel provides strong contrast and gives the chronograph a clear motorsport look. Three black subdials use red markings inspired by the illuminated instruments inside the car. The RedSuns team name appears at three o’clock beside the Seiko logo, while the Initial D symbol is placed inside the lower subdial. The yellow dial, red instrument-style subdials and RedSuns logo refer to Keisuke’s RX-7. Image: PREMICO. One of the best details sits at 12 o’clock. Instead of a normal hour marker, Seiko uses a t...

Hands-On: The Watch Ho & Co. x Selten Yum Cha Edition Hodinkee
Aug 11, 2026

Hands-On: The Watch Ho & Co. x Selten Yum Cha Edition

Today marks the third collaboration between Watch Ho & Co. and Hong Kong-based microbrand Selten. I don't believe we've covered any of Selten's past watches, but last October the brand appeared on my radar after I spent a good bit of time at their booth looking at their watches during theWindUp Watch Fair New York. It's also when I met Jackie Ho, the founder of the Hong Kong watch-enthusiast-and-collector community Watch Ho & Co. Before today, there were two Watch Ho & Co. collaborations with Selten, the Jui and Jui Bauhinia, both under $1,300 and centered around a distinctive "Mountain" pattern CNC-machined onto mother-of-pearl dials. The Bauhinia edition expanded on the design of the first by offering two iridescent dial options, in either pink or purple, and I'm willing to bet that if you float around watch communities on Instagram, you've definitely seen at least a few wrist shots from collectors online. I have a few friends with these watches, and they look really fantastic in person. To celebrate the third anniversary of the enthusiast group, Jackie Ho takes the third collaboration, named Yum Cha (the Cantonese word for dim sum), in a completely different creative direction. On paper, this new watch goes much more upscale with handcrafted decoration instead of CNC machining to achieve a hand-engraved motif on the dial, with grand feu enameling on top. But while the previous editions attribute the dial motif to ancient Chinese armor, the inspiration for the Yum Cha ed...

Dressing Down Your Rolex: Why Taking It Off The Bracelet Can Be A Good Idea Fratello
Rolex Why Taking It Off Aug 8, 2026

Dressing Down Your Rolex: Why Taking It Off The Bracelet Can Be A Good Idea

There’s a particular kind of tunnel vision that sets in around steel sports Rolexes. You picture a Submariner, and the mental image arrives fully assembled: black bezel, black dial, and, welded to it, as if it were cast in one piece, an Oyster bracelet. It’s the same with a GMT-Master, Datejust, Sea-Dweller… In fact, it’s […] Visit Dressing Down Your Rolex: Why Taking It Off The Bracelet Can Be A Good Idea to read the full article.

Video - An Almost Impossible Choice… Frank’s Long Journey to Finding his Favourite Omega Speedmaster Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster Some from day-1 Aug 7, 2026

Video - An Almost Impossible Choice… Frank’s Long Journey to Finding his Favourite Omega Speedmaster

Some, from day-1, know what their favourite version of the all-time iconic Omega Speedmaster is. Whether it is the classic Moonwatch, a modern automatic version, a retro-inspired straight lugs or even a specific vintage model, their search was a short journey. It was not the case for me. I have always loved and respected the […]

Hands-On: Two Wild Dials From Ming, With The "Peepshow" and J.N. Shapiro Collaboration "Lightning" Hodinkee
Tudor Aug 6, 2026

Hands-On: Two Wild Dials From Ming, With The "Peepshow" and J.N. Shapiro Collaboration "Lightning"

You could easily argue that Ming is a materials and manufacturing incubator masquerading as a watch company. Lume that glows white. The lightest ever mechanical watch. The world's first 3D-printed titanium bracelet-strap hybrid. All of these are associated with pretty incredible products, but, to some extent, I think it's fair to say the watches themselves are vehicles for showcasing cool innovation. That's not to say the watches are anything but great. But on occasion they're solutions looking for a problem. I kind of love the brand for it. That kind of innovation also extends to dial making, where Ming has recently released two really interesting dial-making exercises in their collaboration with J.N. Shapiro for the 37.06 "Lightning" and standalone 29.06 "Peepshow." I recently had the chance to go hands-on with a few novelties from Ming. The brand, of course, had a great coup when the 37.09 "Bluefin" beat Tudor and a few others for the best sports watch at GPHG in 2024. They followed up with the 37.09 Uni, which I would say is their most practical release of late. The 56.00 "Starfield" is pretty wild but not to my taste, so I gravitated toward covering the two more dial-focused releases of this year (and their LW01 lightweight watch, which will get a future story on its own). It seemed fitting to start with the Ming x J.N. Shapiro 37.06 "Lightning," since I was actually photographing Shapiro's most recent release the same day. And boy, is the watch stunning in person. Th...

Book Review: ‘Universal People Universal Dreams’ SJX Watches
Patek Philippe before landing Aug 6, 2026

Book Review: ‘Universal People Universal Dreams’

Universal People Universal Dreams is a large-format book that explores, in great detail, a collection of 111 Universal Genève chronographs, and only chronographs. The 384-page book is also a record of the collecting journey of its author, Luca Mignini, who reflects on the lessons learnt and people encountered in his pursuit of watches across the world. A longtime watch collector who is now a professor at Milan’s Bocconi University, Mr Mignini had a long career in the consumer goods industry, culminating in a spell as chief operating officer at Campbell’s, the American food giant famous for its canned soups, after which he retired in 2019. The globe-crossing nature of his career took him from his homeland of Italy to Shanghai and New Jersey, giving him the opportunity to collect internationally, a phenomenon that professionals who travel extensively for work will find familiar. Having been interested in watches since he was a teenager, Mr Mignini made his way through the usual suspects like Rolex and Patek Philippe, before landing on Universal Genève during a trip to Tokyo in 2010. In the time since, he has accumulated the impressive collection of Universal Genève detailed in this book. I met Mr Mignini last year in Geneva and he is clearly obsessed with Universal Genève. His tremendous passion for the brand  makes it almost a given Universal People Universal Dreams will be laser focused on Universal chronographs yet exceptionally wide in scope within the narrow s...

Identifying a Watch 101: The Elliott Smith Case Study Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe s galore Aug 5, 2026

Identifying a Watch 101: The Elliott Smith Case Study

Whether it’s shown briefly on a TV show, in a photograph, featured in an advertisement, or even programmed into a video game, as watch collectors, we’ve all had at least one time where we spotted a watch and felt almost forced to double-take. Because of the money associated with stardom, it’s often Rolex Submariners, Omega Speedmasters, and Patek Philippe’s galore that we find in popular culture productions and events. There are, of course, countless instances of this, but I find that catching a glimpse of an inexpensive and accessible watch on someone’s wrist is far more rewarding and worthwhile to the average watch collector. Few of us have the ability to spend thousands of dollars on a watch that has Hollywood provenance, so to spot and potentially own a piece of horological pop culture history for sometimes well under $100 is a dream come true for many movie and watch fans. To illustrate how identifying a watch can be quite fun and certainly approachable, we will be examining singer/songwriter Elliott Smith and his wristwatch. Its brand and model will be revealed later on as I will first walk you through each step of the process. I hope I can provide you with some pointers the next time you come across a watch you want to identify yourself. It can feel like a rather unnecessary skill at times, but it’s a good feeling to discover a popular culture tie to a wristwatch that no one else has noticed before. How to Identify and Research an Unknown Watch Using Pho...

Fratello On Air: Nick From DC Vintage Watches and Matt From SOTP Join The Show Fratello
Aug 4, 2026

Fratello On Air: Nick From DC Vintage Watches and Matt From SOTP Join The Show

Mike is taking a week off from the podcast, but that doesn’t mean you have to go without an episode. Instead of finding one guest to fill the gap, I figured, why not two? So this week, I sat down with Nick from DC Vintage Watches and Matt (one half of the Spirit of Time […] Visit Fratello On Air: Nick From DC Vintage Watches and Matt From SOTP Join The Show to read the full article.

Owner’s Review: the Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 8 Worn & Wound
Breguet numerals outperform another? But Aug 3, 2026

Owner’s Review: the Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 8

I occasionally have a hard time understanding why some brands are so popular. It’s not that they don’t deserve to do well, but I see brands that don’t seem to be doing anything much different from their peers, let alone special, yet are many times more hyped. Why does one Calatrava-esque watch with Breguet numerals outperform another? But with Ōtsuka Lōtec, I get it. In fact, I don’t just get it, I’ve fallen for it. Then again, Ōtsuka Lōtec isn’t like any other brand. Jiro Katayama, the brand’s founder and lead designer/watchmaker, works from a different playbook. Where other brands pursue finishing and neoclassical elegance, he seeks beauty in the raw and industrial. Inspired by analog machines, measuring instruments, gauges, and the industrial design of the pre-digital age, there is something rough and unintentional (though completely intentional) about his watches. Considering he taught himself watchmaking in a workshop nestled in Tokyo, there is a certain logic to this aesthetic. It’s not born in the farm-strewn hills of Jura, but rather in one of the densest cities in the world. Nor is his education from a lineage of tradition. You won’t find perlage or anglage; surfaces are typically raw, brushed metal, and rarely painted, with only the occasional red highlight. While potentially a love-it-or-leave-it aesthetic, it has resonated deeply with the watch community, touching on a pure joy of mechanics. But, there is more to it as well, as his watches...

Heads Up For A Japanese History Lesson: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy Fratello
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Aug 3, 2026

Heads Up For A Japanese History Lesson: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy

After launching timepieces inspired by the fantastic Arthurian mythology, Roger Dubuis thinks it’s time for a lesson on Japanese history. The new Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy takes inspiration from the rise of the Tokugawa Shogunate, a turning point in Japanese history. The Geneva-based brand uses its high-watchmaking know-how and métiers d’art to create 28 timepieces […] Visit Heads Up For A Japanese History Lesson: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy to read the full article.

Hands-on - Bell & Ross Goes Avant-Garde with the Architectural BR-X3 Micro-Rotor (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Bell & Ross Goes Avant-Garde Jul 31, 2026

Hands-on - Bell & Ross Goes Avant-Garde with the Architectural BR-X3 Micro-Rotor (Incl. Video)

We’ve come to know and love Bell & Ross for its unbridled devotion to the world of aviation and its many flight instrument-inspired watches. The recently launched BR-X3 Micro-Rotor, however, which is a less complex spin-off from last year’s BR-X3 Micro-Rotor Tourbillon, goes in an entirely different direction. It’s not tied to flight instruments, nor […]

Introducing: The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Limited Edition Hodinkee
Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Limited Jul 30, 2026

Introducing: The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Limited Edition

What We Know A funky new dial is probably the least surprising thing to come from Ming these days, but somehow, the new Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor still feels like a compelling play on the brand's two-hander 37-series design. This time around, Ming doubles down on its Malaysian roots for a collaboration with Malaysian pewter brand Royal Selangor. What we get is a dramatically hammered pewter dial, made by Royal Selangor in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The grooves and scales of the hammering are quite exaggerated for the size of the dial, which offers an uninterrupted surface for the hammering without any printing or applied markers. With this expansive, highly textured dial, Ming's usage of the top sapphire crystal as an alternative place for dial markings is very useful, with the underside of the top sapphire crystal engraved and infilled with Super-LumiNova X1 for a luminescent track with hour markers and Ming's logo at the top that floats above the hammered pewter surface. It's complemented by the distinctive blued 37-series handset, also coated with a generous amount of Super-LumiNova. The luster of the dial is framed by the more demure look of a fully-brushed grade-2 titanium case, with a diameter of 38mm, a thickness of 11.05mm, and a compact lug-to-lug of 44.73mm. Engraved on the periphery of the exhibition caseback is Ming and Royal Selangor branding, and through the sapphire crystal, the automatic Sellita for MING SW300.M1 is seen in full view. Yes, on paper the movemen...