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Results for GMT & World Time

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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

Best of 2024: Value Propositions Below US$10,000 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Dec 23, 2024

Best of 2024: Value Propositions Below US$10,000

Many of the year’s most notable watches were expensive, especially complications and independent watchmaking, but there were still a few standouts at the affordable end of the price spectrum. Some relied on familiar formulas, like the Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, while others like the Louis Erard Vianney Halter collaboration were unexpected. Here’s our team’s take on the year’s best watches under US$10,000. Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph - David Ichim A great debut from the recently-established micro brand is the Type 10 Chronograph. Albishorn’s tagline is “imaginary vintage” - drawing inspiration from actual vintage watches, but reimagined with an entirely novel composition, resulting in watches that are highly suggestive of an era without actually being remakes. The Type 10 Chronograph exemplifies this philosophy. The hands, typeface, bezel, and slim lugs pay homage to mid-century aviator chronographs from the likes of Airain, Breguet, and Heuer. The unusual arrangement of the chronograph display however makes it entirely unique.  Inside is a heavily reworked 7750-derived movement, that is positioned unconventionally, leading to the unusual crown and pusher arrangement along with the unorthodox chronograph layout. The manually-wound movement is also C.O.S.C certified and incorporates a chronograph-function indicator. In fact, the calibre is arguably more than just heavily reworked, amongst other things, it has shorter pinions than a 77...

From the Grönefeld Brothers, a New Brand, GRØNE, and an Affordable New Watch, the Manueel One Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Nov 5, 2024

From the Grönefeld Brothers, a New Brand, GRØNE, and an Affordable New Watch, the Manueel One

A new brand is the talk of the watch world today, and the latest example of a trend we’ve seen developing over the last several years. GRØNE is the new project from Bart and Tim Grönefeld, the brothers behind the Grönefeld brand, one of the most acclaimed indies in the world. Following in the footsteps of the M.A.D. 1 project, Kurono Tokyo, and others, the brand exists as a way for admirers of a high priced independent maker to buy into the aesthetic and perspective of the brand at a much more affordable price point. The first release from GRØNE, the Manueel One, carries a retail price of just 2,150 Euros. At retail, Grönefeld watches start at around 50,000 Euros and go up from there. They are also very low production, with fewer than 100 pieces made each year.  The Manueel One, according to Bart and Tim, was inspired by a desire to bring their watches to “our our watchmakers, our children, and our friends.” If this sentiment sounds familiar, it’s nearly identical to Max Büsser’s reasoning behind the M.A.D. 1 project, which was initially only offered to friends of the brand, including partners that Max and his team had worked with for years. Like the M.A.D. 1, the Manueel One borrows some aesthetic and design principles from the higher priced watches the brand is known for, but it does so without the serious attention to craft and watchmaking you’d get with an atelier made timepiece. That’s to be expected, of course. Anyone thinking that an order for t...

Audemars Piguet Returns to Forged Carbon with the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Returns Sep 20, 2024

Audemars Piguet Returns to Forged Carbon with the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds

Having pioneered the use of carbon-fibre reinforced polymer for watches cases with the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team of 2007, Audemars Piguet (AP) is returning with a new generation of the material that debuts in the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Based on the original model in old-school titanium, the new split-seconds chronograph has a carbon composite case made using Chroma Forged Technology (CFT) that allows for greater colour and patterning in the material. As a result, the CFT carbon case has the typical marbled appearance of carbon composite, but flecked with blue veins that glow in the dark. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT might seem like yet another variant of AP’s popular model, but it  is equipped with one of the brand’s latest movements, the cal. 4407. The movement boasts a modern, sophisticated construction, along with one of the most innovative implementations of the split-seconds mechanism in modern watchmaking. The CFT carbon case dresses up the movement in more eye-catching attire, especially for those who found the first version in titanium too conventional. Although the new split-seconds only includes blue as an accent, the range of colours is essentially limitless since CFT carbon can be coloured in myriad hues. That means more colour variations are surely in the pipeline. Though novel for AP, coloured or luminous carbon composite is not a new concept since the material been used for watch ca...

Hands-on – The New Lederer Three-times Certified Observatory Chronometer Monochrome
Breguet s natural escapement Sep 9, 2024

Hands-on – The New Lederer Three-times Certified Observatory Chronometer

Independent watchmaker and proper horologist Bernhard Lederer has once again captured the spotlight in recent years, with the horological community admiring and discussing his Central Impulse Chronometer series. This collection of wristwatches features a unique movement designed by Lederer, regulated by a high-accuracy escapement inspired by Breguet’s natural escapement and George Daniels’ independent two-wheel, dual-impulse […]

The Golden Age of Rolex Movements Part II: Rolex gets Complicated with Innovations and Patent Registrations Quill & Pad
Rolex Movements Part II Rolex Sep 7, 2024

The Golden Age of Rolex Movements Part II: Rolex gets Complicated with Innovations and Patent Registrations

From the public’s perspective, Rolex’s surge into its movement revolution began with the now anachronistic-sounding Basel 2000 World Watch, Clock, and Jewelry Show. But the evidence of a long-term engineering campaign was mounting at the patent office and in the dealers’ showrooms as this article by Tim Mosso highlights.

Lessons Learned From Geneva Watch Days - Complicated Times Call For Complicated Watches Fratello
Sep 6, 2024

Lessons Learned From Geneva Watch Days - Complicated Times Call For Complicated Watches

The 2024 edition of Geneva Watch Days was the hottest ever. Not only did the temperatures soar to unprecedented heights (30+ degrees Celsius), but more brands also showed their goods than ever before (52), and the number of visitors compared to last year increased by more than 70% (13,800). Some watch insiders expected an event […] Visit Lessons Learned From Geneva Watch Days - Complicated Times Call For Complicated Watches to read the full article.

Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition In Stealthy Black Fratello
Mido Aug 21, 2024

Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition In Stealthy Black

For the new Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition, the brand decided to release a black PVD version. At first, this might be surprising due to the Decompression Timer’s colorful dial. If you think about it a little longer, though, it makes sense. The black overall aesthetic ensures that the dial truly pops. […] Visit Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition In Stealthy Black to read the full article.

Introducing – A Special Omega Seamaster Diver 300m for the 37th America’s Cup Monochrome
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Aug 20, 2024

Introducing – A Special Omega Seamaster Diver 300m for the 37th America’s Cup

In recent news, watchmaker Omega has recently announced the renewal of its role as the Official Timekeeper of one of the the world’s most intense sailing races and the oldest trophy in international sport, the America’s Cup. The brand began its partnership with Emirates Team New Zealand and legendary sailor Sir Peter Blake in 1995 […]

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Gets the All-Black Treatment SJX Watches
Longines Mido’s latest Aug 20, 2024

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Gets the All-Black Treatment

Mido once again turns to its popular vintage remake with the all-black Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961. The latest in a considerable number of iterations of the model, the new Ocean Star stays faithful to the original in outline and features a trademark multicoloured decompression table on the dial. One of the smaller and less prominent brands in the Swatch Group stable that includes Omega and Longines, Mido’s latest is a limited edition of 1,961 pieces to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Ocean Star model. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common enough they have become cliché, especially in this price segment. The Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 has arguably been iterated too often, each time in slightly different colourway, so the new version isn’t all that novel. That said, it is affordably priced – retail is US$1,480 – and boasts an original design thanks to the decompression scale on the dial. Additionally, this version with its black-PVD coated finish stands out against earlier variants with stealthy aesthetic that creates more contrast with the colourful dial. At the same time, the ETA calibre inside has higher specs than most movements in this price segment, a result of Mido’s parent also owning ETA. Stealthy thetics The stainless steel case measures 40.5 mm in diameter and 13.4 mm high, which give it the proportions of a modern watch despite the retro styling. The crystal is domed “glass box” style to mimic the PlexiGlas of the vint...

eBay Finds: A Classic Omega, a Fun Timex with a Familiar Beagle on the Dial, and a Gorgeous and Rare Piaget Chronograph Worn & Wound
Piaget Chronograph eBay Finds Aug 16, 2024

eBay Finds: A Classic Omega, a Fun Timex with a Familiar Beagle on the Dial, and a Gorgeous and Rare Piaget Chronograph

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Timex Snoopy Tennis Watch  Starting off this week with a fun one, a vintage Timex Snoopy Tennis watch with the original box! Remember these from when we were kids? I sure do! The watch is gold tone with a blue denim-pattern dial and of course Snoopy on the dial. His arm holding the racket along with the tennis ball are printed on a clear disc that rotates as the second hand. It has the original blue denim strap as well as the super cool Snoopy doghouse original plastic box. I mean, this nifty watch isn’t going to pass COSC testing, but just look how cool the whole package is! View auction here Vintage Seiko Sea Lion M88 This vintage Seiko Sea Lion M88 has a unique look that really stands out. The case is square(ish) but contrasted with the white round dial. The case looks unpolished with nice sharp edges and the original brushed finish. The dial is wild, with horizontal lines connecting the raised square steel hour markers. It has a date only window at 3 o’clock along with the classic Seiko dauphine hands. The caseback has a nifty sea lion logo engraved on it too. This is a cool one that should be easy on the watch budget but still be a fun one to wear with plenty of vintag...

The Petrolhead Corner – The Colliding Worlds Of Indian Motorcycles And Lebois & Co’s Watchmaking Monochrome
Aug 10, 2024

The Petrolhead Corner – The Colliding Worlds Of Indian Motorcycles And Lebois & Co’s Watchmaking

Today I’m bringing you a genuine slice of American motorcycle culture, plus a proper Swiss-made chronograph watch to go along with it. I’m talking about the sinister Indian Sport Chief and the mouth-watering Lebois & Co. Heritage Chronograph Indian Motorcycles Edition. At first, it might seem like an odd pairing, and there’s no prior history […]

A New Casio Edifice Pays Tribute to a Motorsport Subculture Worn & Wound
Casio Edifice Pays Tribute Jul 29, 2024

A New Casio Edifice Pays Tribute to a Motorsport Subculture

Casio is celebrating 50 years of TOM’s Racing with the release of a new racing-inspired chronograph. The Casio Edifice Sospensione TOM’s 50th Anniversary builds on Casio’s long history of technical, multi-function watches to deliver a fittingly contemporary watch that also references half a century of racing history. TOM’s Racing, for those not overly invested in the world of JDM tuner cars or Super GT, is a longstanding aftermarket parts manufacturer and tuner, primarily focused on Toyota and Lexus models. TOM’s Racing has also been heavily involved in competitive racing since day one, often acting as a tuning partner for factory race teams across racing divisions, and they have served as an official tuning shop for Toyota since 1975, just a year after their founding. This latest release from Edifice draws inspiration from one of TOM’s most iconic cars, the KP47 Starlet, which helped launch the brand onto the racing scene, winning touring car series championships in 1975, 1976, and 1978. With its vibrant livery, the KP47 has become somewhat of a mascot for the race house over the last five decades, so there’s no more fitting car for Casio to choose as inspiration for this limited edition. Edifice often gets overlooked by enthusiasts in favor of Casio’s other brand known for technical, multi-function watches, but pay close attention in the real world and you’ll see Edifice watches everywhere. Affordable, capable, and dripping in multi-functional goodness,...

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Worn & Wound
Citizen Celebrating 35 Years Jul 18, 2024

Recapping Windup in a Lake 2024 Presented by Citizen Celebrating 35 Years of Promaster

In 1971, banker-turned-explorer Peter Gimbel set out on a 5-month voyage aboard the Terrier VIII to be the first person in the world to capture a Great White shark on film. He cobbled together an eclectic team for this adventure, including everyone from conservationists and shark experts to filmmakers and writers. This expedition resulted in the documentary film Blue Water, White Death, which has since become a cult classic within the diving community, and features a slew of very unique, very 70s dive watches to boot. Among the crew of early underwater luminaries (Stan Waterman, Ron and Valerie Taylor, anyone?), Gimbel also saw fit to hire budding singer/songwriter Tom Chapin along as a guitar-slinging jack of all trades, whereupon he became the natural soundtrack for the film. Tom’s role in this expedition is considered to be the inspiration for filmmaker Wes Anderson’s inclusion of Brazilian folk singer Seu Jorge in his sea-set feature The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou. Both films result in support of an eternal truth, that the best boat rides are the ones with folk singers aboard. For the last three years, the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago has brought enthusiasts from as far south as Texas and from as far north as Canada to gather and geek out on watches from around the world. Beginning with the first year of Windup Chicago, a dedicated team of watch enthusiast divers started an adjacent activity, affectionately dubbed “Windup in a Lake.” Each year, this intrepi...

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Worn & Wound
Jul 9, 2024

[VIDEO] What It Takes To Be Made In Glashütte with Bruno Söhnle

From hand-milling plates to carefully bluing screws, the team at  Bruno Söhnle Glashütte S/A takes the standard and seal of ‘Made in Glashütte’ very personally. Since 2000, the brand has become the most accessible entry point for watch enthusiasts to step into the world of traditional Glashütte watchmaking. For the uninitiated, the town of Glashütte in Saxony, Germany has been the undisputed heart of prestigious German watchmaking for almost two centuries. With a 60+ year family legacy intertwined with the history of this town, the basic idea behind the Bruno Söhnle brand is to manufacture watches that live up to the all-important ‘Made in Glashütte’ concept and title-but in a way that also makes them affordable for everyone. ‘Made in Glashütte’ can best be compared to champagne. Like champagne, it has regulations that it can only be produced in a specific region. We have the same thing here in Glashütte. We had the unique opportunity of going behind-the-scenes at the manufacture in Glashütte, with the Bruno Söhnle team, to see exactly what it takes to be ‘Made in Glashütte.’ Join us as we interview the brand’s leadership, spend time with their watchmakers, and learn about the standards that define Glashütte-based quality across automatic, hand-wound, and even quartz movements. In fact, Bruno Söhnle Glashütte S/A is the only watch brand around to create quartz movements bearing the ‘Made in Glashütte’ moniker. In this exclusive be...

Alternative Rectangular Cool - Five Great Options From Hermès, Oris, Timex, And More Fratello
Cartier s resurgence Jul 6, 2024

Alternative Rectangular Cool - Five Great Options From Hermès, Oris, Timex, And More

Cartier’s resurgence is massive, with the brand riding a Kanagawa-sized wave of sales and praise. And yes, along with the Tank, we also love the JLC Reverso and its flippable charms. But what if your budget is a lot less or you simply don’t love those watches’ looks? Trust us, for your wrist, there’s a […] Visit Alternative Rectangular Cool - Five Great Options From Hermès, Oris, Timex, And More to read the full article.

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB is Now Regular Production SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB Jul 4, 2024

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB is Now Regular Production

Several months back, Tudor quietly released the Black Bay Ceramic Blue exclusively for the Visa Cash App RB (VCARB) Formula One team, with the dial colour modelled on the Visa logo. Today, the watch is available to the public (while the VCARB drivers will sport the more recent rainbow-dial “Chameleon” edition). Initial thoughts Tudor often listens to its audience, giving them what they want. Examples include the more compact Black Bay 58 GMT, and now the Black Bay Ceramic Blue. Intrinsically, the new Black Bay is technically and aesthetically perfect in its own way. It is the same Black Bay that has remained the brand’s bestseller since its launch, but in an unusual combination of black ceramic and blue. The brand has rolled out a number of special editions recently, which might dilute the concept somewhat. That said, this is the first instance of a publicly available Black Bay Ceramic special edition (unlike say the Black Bay 58), which makes it appealing. That said, the Black Bay Ceramic Blue is a great value proposition, as is usually the case for Tudor. It combines a ceramic case with an impressively spec’ed in-house movement that’s both METAS- and COSC-Certified, all for US$5,150, a price that few can rival. Visa Blue The highlight of the new Black Bay Ceramic is the matte blue dial (that’s arguably similar to the discontinued Rolex Submariner “Smurf” ref. 116619). It’s matched with applied hour markers and snowflake hands filled with white Super-Lum...