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Bienne

Bilingual Swiss city; HQ of Rolex (1919), Omega (1880), Tissot, Movado, Mido, ETA SA, Nivarox-FAR.

Editorial: Tudor at 100 Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Jan 13, 2026

Editorial: Tudor at 100

Tudor turns 100 this year. The same age as Dick Van Dyke and American Airlines. Anniversaries like this are a big deal in the watch industry – we’ve just been through a year where both Vacheron Constantin and Breguet celebrated major milestones, each with a series of special releases. That’s the playbook for a watch brand: milk the year for as long as possible with new releases that feel special. It’s a sensible strategy given that it inherently leans into heritage and prestige, both ideas that have been proven to sell watches successfully for years. This isn’t meant to be a prediction of what might be in store for Tudor this year – plenty of outlets and watch media figures have already weighed in on that topic. We don’t have any inside information, of course, so any guesses as to what Tudor might do would be just that. My hunch, though, is that we won’t see obviously anniversary inflected pieces dropped throughout the year in the same way we saw from the likes of Vacheron and Breguet in 2025. It doesn’t feel like that’s part of the Rolex DNA that Tudor shares. I expect we’ll see some very subtle 100 year mentions in Tudor marketing, a special watch or two that is not explicitly tied to the anniversary but as recognized as honoring it just the same, and perhaps something a little more celebratory around Watches & Wonders or an athletic event that Tudor is involved in (there will of course be many of those throughout the year). What I’m much more int...

India Watch Weekend 2026 Happening in Mumbai SJX Watches
Grand Seiko but also independents like Jan 13, 2026

India Watch Weekend 2026 Happening in Mumbai

India Watch Weekend returns for the second time this year, underlining the growth of the luxury watch market in the country. While Indian clients have long been patrons of luxury watchmakers, many historically shopped outside the country in places like Dubai and London. Now clients are moving towards domestic consumption, explaining rising sales in-country and events like India Watch Weekend. India Watch Weekend is happening in Mumbai, the nation’s commercial capital. Amongst the brands taking part are big brands like A. Lange & Söhne, Grand Seiko, but also independents like Ming and Dunselman Watchmaking. Also present for the first time is the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), a trade body dedicated to horological education. The event will take place over the weekend of January 17 and 18 at the Four Seasons. It’s open to the public but tickets are required. For more, visit Indiawatchweekend.com, while tickets can be purchased online.  

Seiko Introduces the Tonneau Shaped SPB537 to the Presage Collection Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Jan 12, 2026

Seiko Introduces the Tonneau Shaped SPB537 to the Presage Collection

While it’s tempting to build a collection of just tool watches and divers with beefiness and durability in spades, having a good dress watch is a boon for any collector. Not only can a dress watch give you an excuse to put on that dress or suit and accessorize, it can also help remind you that function isn’t everything then it comes to timepieces; style matters too.  Seiko’s Presage collection has long been a stalwart for dress watch shoppers on a budget who don’t want to sacrifice craftsmanship, and the new SPB537 reference is a tonneau-shaped addition to the Classic Series line. The enamel dial, paired with the tonneau case, is the major selling point for the SPB537, as it was designed by master artisan Mitsuru Yokosawa and his apprentice, Kazunori Uchiyama. This extra level of prestige elevates the SPB537, and adds a sort of intimacy to the design, despite it being introduced as a non-limited, continuous production model. The dial is white, a gentle contrast to the 46mm by 35.9mm stainless steel case and bracelet, and features sharp black Roman numerals, with a black minute track around the outer edge. A matching 24-hour sub-dial at 6 o’clock balances the dial, with the Seiko Presage logo just below 12.  Blued steel hands provide a colorful accent, with a balancing half moon on the tail end of the seconds hand. The blue, though on the subtler side, is a welcome addition to the otherwise very business-like dial, and it furthers the artisan craftsmanship promi...

Business News: Chanel Takes Stake in Kross Manufacture SJX Watches
Chanel Takes Stake Jan 12, 2026

Business News: Chanel Takes Stake in Kross Manufacture

Chanel has taken a 30% minority stake in Kross Manufacture, the industrial operation behind the watches of Kross Studio and several third-party clients. Though the investment has not been formally publicised, I reached out to the brand’s founder Marco Tedeschi who confirmed the investment and provided additional context on the strategy for Kross Manufacture. In short, the transaction continues Chanel’s long-running strategy of backing independent watchmaking infrastructure through minority investments, rather than pursuing full acquisitions or operational control. Initial thoughts While Chanel’s growing footprint across independent watchmaking is well documented, its investment in Kross Manufacture is notable for its manufacturing-first focus. Unlike brand-level partnerships, the stake is confined strictly to production capabilities, reinforcing Chanel’s long-term interest in securing specialised, high-end manufacturing capacity rather than expanding its portfolio of consumer-facing marques. In this sense, the investment can be viewed as similar to its 2019 investment in the Kenissi manufacture alongside Tudor. Equally significant is what the deal does not represent: there is no rapid industrial scaling planned. Instead, the investment appears designed to selectively expand capacity, allowing Kross Manufacture to continue serving both its in-house brand and more third-party clients without sacrificing the agility required to produce watches in very small quantities...

Hands-on With Doxa’s Sub 250T GMT Sharkhunter Vintage Fratello
Doxa s Sub 250T GMT Jan 11, 2026

Hands-on With Doxa’s Sub 250T GMT Sharkhunter Vintage

Certain watches feel immediately familiar the moment you strap them on - not because you’ve worn them before but, rather, because their story has been written so clearly over the decades that slipping one on is like stepping into a well-loved pair of boots. That’s the sensation I had when the Doxa Sub 250T GMT […] Visit Hands-on With Doxa’s Sub 250T GMT Sharkhunter Vintage to read the full article.

Finnish Finishing: Kortela Valta Unveils the Toka SJX Watches
Omega calibre inside Jan 9, 2026

Finnish Finishing: Kortela Valta Unveils the Toka

The Toka from Finnish duo Roope Kortela and René Valta reflects the ongoing appeal of beautifully finished, time-only watches, combining a thoughtfully reworked historical calibre with the brand’s first champlevé enamel dial. With an emphasis on high-grade finishing and increasingly in-house components - including a proprietary free-sprung balance - the Toka is a strong sophomore effort from the startup independent. Rene Valta (foreground) and Roope Kortela Initial thoughts It’s been more than 25 years since Philippe Dufour unveiled the Simplicity, a watch that challenged prevailing wisdom about what fine watchmaking was all about. Launched at a time when brands and collectors were focused on complications, the Simplicity arguably created the niche for highly finished time-only watches and intensified collector focus on independent watchmaking in general. Though the field has become crowded over the past quarter-century, collector demand has proven durable. The Toka is a watch built in this tradition. The Omega calibre inside the Toka has been heavily reworked by Kortela Valta. The watchmakers kept most of the original architecture intact, while applying high-end finishing top to bottom. Furthermore, since the start of 2025, the watchmaking duo has expanded the list of components they’re able to make in-house, including the new free-sprung balance that differentiates the Toka from the Eka and Oma models that preceded it.  The Toka features a fairly traditional...

First Look – The New Tonneau-Shaped Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB537 with Enamel Dial Monochrome
Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB537 Jan 8, 2026

First Look – The New Tonneau-Shaped Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB537 with Enamel Dial

It has been a while since we last saw a tonneau-shaped Seiko Presage… The last to surface on MONOCHROME was the Presage Enamel SPB049 from 2017, a quietly unusual model that stood apart from the round, conservative silhouettes that dominate Seiko’s classical offerings, or the 2019 Zen Garden SARY111 (SRPD05/07) series. But here we are […]

Andersen Genève’s World Time Gains a Split Seconds Upgrade SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5373P Jan 7, 2026

Andersen Genève’s World Time Gains a Split Seconds Upgrade

Historically a complication associated with Svend Andersen, the pioneering independent who cofounded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the world time has been reworked and added to the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph movement to create the Rattrapante Mondiale. One of the most complicated offerings from Andersen Genève, the Rattrapante Mondiale features a clever two-level world time disc display while the cal. 179 inside is entirely finished by hand. Though the octogenarian Mr Andersen is now largely retired, Andersen Genève continues his artisanal approach to watchmaking that’s exemplified by the Rattrapante Mondiale. Initial thoughts Andersen Genève has produced a great many world time watches, but the Rattrapante Mondial is one of the most impressive. The movement is recognisably complicated, while the level of execution is high, especially for the movement and dial. Much of the work is also artisanal, as is typical for Andersen, which still operates out of Svend Andersen’s original premises. The Rattrapante Mondiale is appropriately sized for the design and movement, while the case styling is simple and good enough. Unusually, it’s a “destro” case with the crown on the left side and world time knob on the opposite side. The brand says it made left-handed cases for some one-off commissions in the past, but here it feels a little too much like an unnecessary affectation. It is also reminiscent of the Patek Philippe ref. 5373P...

The Seiko 5T52-7A19: An Ode to the Age of Discovery Worn & Wound
Seiko 5T52-7A19 Jan 5, 2026

The Seiko 5T52-7A19: An Ode to the Age of Discovery

I’ve never had many gold-tone watches in my collection, and it’s simply because I don’t have much gold jewelry to match. The benefit to this is that I’ve always been incredibly critical of the gold-tone watches I contemplate adding to my collection, knowing that I only want a few in my watch box overall. I acquired this 5T52-7A19 a couple of months ago after a spur-of-the-moment faceoff between me and the “buy it now” button on eBay.  While I had owned a model from Seiko’s Age of Discovery line many years ago, I had never come into contact with one of the higher-end models from the collection. I’ve remained true to my self-implemented rule for gold-tone watches, meaning that this model will have the honor of forcing my hand to sell off another piece from the watch box. If you’ve been thinking about adding another gold-tone watch to your collection, let me introduce you to a staunch contender. Brief Overview of the Age of Discovery Line and -7A19 Model The Seiko Age of Discovery was introduced sometime between 1990 and 1992 to coincide with the 500th anniversary of Christopher Columbus’ 1492 voyage. Based on the historical time period of the same name, the Age of Discovery series is heavily influenced by the nautical theming associated with the many expeditions of European travelers between the 15th and 17th centuries. Many of the line’s watches feature motifs that harken back to crucial aspects of seafaring travel, sporting iconography such as maps, ...

The three watches Borna wore most in 2025 are… Time+Tide
Jan 1, 2026

The three watches Borna wore most in 2025 are…

Another year gone, and another year of looking back at what has been and figuring out which three watches accompanied me along the way. As it tends to go with these things, there are two caveats to watch out for. The first, and most dangerous in my experience, is recency bias, which I still fear … ContinuedThe post The three watches Borna wore most in 2025 are… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Henry’s Picks From IWC, Seiko, Longines, And More Fratello
Longines Dec 29, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Henry’s Picks From IWC, Seiko, Longines, And More

Every year, the watch industry delivers a flood of releases that range from quietly brilliant to perhaps a little forgettable. Indeed, 2025 has been no different. Amid anniversary reissues, limited editions, and the like, a handful of releases stood out to me as watches that genuinely got things right. These are not necessarily the most […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Henry’s Picks From IWC, Seiko, Longines, And More to read the full article.

Fratello’s Most-Read Story Of The Year 2025 - Introducing: The Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch 1965 Fratello
Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch Dec 29, 2025

Fratello’s Most-Read Story Of The Year 2025 - Introducing: The Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch 1965

Note from the Managing Editor: As part of our end-of-year process, the editorial team and I look back on the year to see (among other things) what some of the best-read stories of the year have been. Although this is usually an internal process, I thought it would be interesting to share it with you, […] Visit Fratello’s Most-Read Story Of The Year 2025 - Introducing: The Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch 1965 to read the full article.

Year in Review: the Best Travel Watches of 2025 Worn & Wound
Seiko NH34 have made including Dec 24, 2025

Year in Review: the Best Travel Watches of 2025

Travel watches have been on the absolute rise in recent years. Where dive watches were once the default option for a first sports watch, GMTs, dual times, and world timers have been making a credible play for wrist time with enthusiasts of all strata. There are practical reasons for this - movements like the Miyota 9075 and Seiko NH34 have made including a GMT complication in a watch more affordable than ever - but I think practical reasons only scratch the surface of this precipitous rise. To tell the whole story, you have to look for the romantic. There’s an inherent appeal in travel watches. They’re optimistic and remind us to stay interested in the world even when we’re stuck at home, or work, or in the myopia of day-to-day life, when the little things around us stop us from looking further. I think this appeal was only reinforced by a mandatory two-year stay inside, at home, and I don’t think it’s by chance that our collective release back into the world post-COVID coincided with the rise of the travel watch. I mean, sure, in a world where our phones automatically adjust to new time zones, and most people’s preferred travel watch is an Apple Watch, mechanical travel watches (or, really, analog - there are some pretty stellar quartz offerings to be had, you don’t need to look further than the Timex Q Continental GMT for evidence of that) may be more talismanic than necessary, but I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that. So, with all that ...

A Condensed Guide To Grand Seiko Releases From 2025 Fratello
Grand Seiko Releases From 2025 Merry Dec 24, 2025

A Condensed Guide To Grand Seiko Releases From 2025

Merry Christmas, everyone! As we approach the end of the year, it is time to look back at some of the best Grand Seiko releases of 2025. The past 12 months have been packed with new watches from brands all over the industry, but we saw some amazing novelties from Grand Seiko. From the impressive […] Visit A Condensed Guide To Grand Seiko Releases From 2025 to read the full article.

Year in Review: the Benefits of a Mobile Desk in a Travel Filled 2025 Worn & Wound
Casio n I’ve had Dec 23, 2025

Year in Review: the Benefits of a Mobile Desk in a Travel Filled 2025

I was recently looking back at the year with my husband and roughly calculated that I had been away from home on business two out of the last twelve months. Considering I have a full-time job and have hardly missed a deadline, this seems somewhat implausible. But, in reviewing my Google Calendar, it seems to be true: New York a handful of times, Germany twice, Mexico, New Orleans, Boston, Philadelphia…I can go on, but you get the idea. For me, I have maintained a love-hate relationship with travel. I love bragging about it on social media; but I hate having to work while away from my cozy little writing studio I keep in a nearby town. It’s stressful for me, having gotten into a routine of total silence and minimal distractions, to be filing an article from a hotel room with spotty Wifi or one too close to the elevator. And while it may seem glamorous to be tapping away about fashion week while waiting to board a plane, I can assure you I’ve been nearly brought to tears by my neighbor next to me watching a TikTok video without headphones – a level of hell that even Dante couldn’t have fathomed, if you ask me. But that’s the thing when you travel for work: you actually have to work while you’re traveling. And this is especially so for those in creative jobs, where missed deadlines, unanswered emails, and rushed articles can ultimately have an impact on your paycheck. On more than one occasion, I’ve had to buy WiFi on a flight (not expensed, mind you) to file ...

First Look – The Voutilainen 28MPR, the Farewell Edition to the Exceptional Vingt-8 Series Monochrome
Voutilainen Dec 19, 2025

First Look – The Voutilainen 28MPR, the Farewell Edition to the Exceptional Vingt-8 Series

Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected names in independent watchmaking. Since founding his atelier in 2002 in the Swiss Jura, the Finnish-born genius has been creating timepieces that combine the best of traditional craftsmanship with true mechanical ingenuity. His watches won’t be mistaken for someone else’s work, with elaborate guilloché dials, exceptional finishing […]

Parts Of A Watch: Everything You Need To Know Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 19, 2025

Parts Of A Watch: Everything You Need To Know

If you're new to the watch appreciation game and anxious to engage in discussions, debates, and diatribes with fellow aficionados who have been into the hobby longer, you may have hesitated for one important reason: nailing the proper terminology. "What are all the parts of a watch called, anyway?" you may have asked yourself in moments of doubt. Never fear: we've assembled a primer below on all the important parts of a watch and what they do. [toc-section heading="The Watch Case"] The case is the outer shell of the watch, comparable to the chassis of a car. While a handful of cases are milled from a single block of metal (and called “monobloc”), most of them consist of three main parts, the caseback, case middle or casebody, and bezel. Cases can be made of a wide variety of materials, including but not limited to: plastic, resin, stainless steel, titanium, bronze, ceramic, various types of gold, and other precious metals such as platinum.Cases that combine different materials for their parts (i.e., a steel casebody and a gold or ceramic bezel) are referred to as “two-tone,” “bi-metal,” or “bi-material.”  [text-media heading="" text="The most traditional watch cases are round though watchmakers have used a variety of other shaped cases, some of which have become iconically associated with certain brands and models. These include cushion-shaped (“coussin”) cases, such as on the Panerai Luminor and Piaget Polo; square and rectangular cases, such as on t...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Nacho’s Picks From Nomos, Sinn, Tudor, And More Fratello
Tudor Dec 19, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Nacho’s Picks From Nomos, Sinn, Tudor, And More

All right, everyone, it’s my turn to tell you about my favorite watches of 2025. With the calendar winding down, it’s remarkable how close the end of the year suddenly feels. The past few weeks have slipped by at an almost unfair pace, but stepping back for a moment makes one thing obvious: it’s been […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Nacho’s Picks From Nomos, Sinn, Tudor, And More to read the full article.