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Results for Swiss Lever Escapement

1,617 articles · 30 videos found · page 20 of 55

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Surprises SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin also surprised Dec 31, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Surprises

Episode 24 of the SJX Podcast covers the surprises and unexpected developments of 2025, a year marked by significant material innovation and bold statements from established brands. In this final episode of 2025, SJX and Brandon discuss Rolex’s landmark Land-Dweller with its revolutionary Dynapulse escapement, Breguet’s experimental magnetic constant-force mechanism that achieved unprecedented precision, and TAG Heuer’s industrialization of carbon hairsprings. Vacheron Constantin also surprised with an extraordinary 150 kg astronomical clock created for its 270th anniversary, temporarily displayed at the Louvre alongside a companion wristwatch. Thank you to all our listeners for joining us throughout 2025 – happy new year! Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

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Best of 2025: Surprises and Unexpected Developments SJX Watches
Rolex Land-Dweller Dec 23, 2025

Best of 2025: Surprises and Unexpected Developments

From one-off artistic creations to new escapement technologies, 2025 delivered more than its share of surprises and unexpected developments. Brands with institutional research and development departments led the way with unexpected material breakthroughs, while Geneva’s oldest watchmaker surprised (and delighted) with a clock of astronomical proportions. Rolex Land-Dweller and Dynapulse Escapement - SJX Given its institutional nature, Rolex rarely surprises, but when it does, the brand does so in a big way. The Land-Dweller was unquestionably one of the biggest debuts from Rolex in a long time. The integrated bracelet design is certainly a departure from the prevailing house style, but the Land-Dweller is a landmark mainly for the movement inside, the cal. 7135 that boasts the Dynapulse escapement. While Rolex movements have enjoyed largely incremental improvements for years, the cal. 7135 in the Land-Dweller is a radical break because it’s an all-new movement with an all-new escapement. The Dynapulse escapement is one of the most forward-thinking inventions by Rolex, arguably ever. A double-wheel, detached and indirect-tangential impulse escapement, the Dynapulse is arguably among the most advanced escapements on the market today – and the cal. 7135 is probably the most precise self-winding movement on the market. More crucially, it is being produced at scale. A new escapement is an achievement, but a new escapement manufactured in large numbers is a bona fide fea...

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First Look – The Voutilainen 28MPR, the Farewell Edition to the Exceptional Vingt-8 Series Monochrome
Voutilainen Dec 19, 2025

First Look – The Voutilainen 28MPR, the Farewell Edition to the Exceptional Vingt-8 Series

Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected names in independent watchmaking. Since founding his atelier in 2002 in the Swiss Jura, the Finnish-born genius has been creating timepieces that combine the best of traditional craftsmanship with true mechanical ingenuity. His watches won’t be mistaken for someone else’s work, with elaborate guilloché dials, exceptional finishing […]

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Interview: Sylvain Berneron on Building a Brand, and Rethinking Modern Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Cartier Crash but Dec 19, 2025

Interview: Sylvain Berneron on Building a Brand, and Rethinking Modern Watchmaking

Every few years, a new independent hits the scene with something that hits just the right notes to get all the factions of the watch world vibrating at the same frequency. However, no recent newcomer has managed to unite the watch echo chamber the way Swiss independent Berneron has.  When Berneron unveiled their debut offering, the Mirage, in 2023, it was universally lauded as the most intriguing and refreshing new watch seen in ages. The Mirage was a legitimately unique take on upscale watchmaking, with a striking aesthetic and design narrative as unexpected as its asymmetrical shape and wildly ambitious bespoke movement. The Mirage’s styling was initially met with comparisons to the Cartier Crash, but the reality is its melted case shape was an elegant solution for housing the watch’s impressive mechanics–a case shrink-wrapped around a new caliber that was designed from scratch, free from the rules of traditional movement design.  The Mirage was a helluva of a breakout hit; it had mystique, it was technically impressive, and it was different without resorting to arbitrary design choices. The Mirage’s success would be difficult to replicate, but with the Quantième, Berneron has both side-steped the sophomore slump and cemented the reputation of its founder and Creative Director Sylvain Berneron as a true visionary and a generational talent.  The Quantième applies Berneron’s virtuosic technicality to a watch that embraces a more traditional look than the Mir...

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Longines Sector Dial Review: Trendsetting Vintage Style Under $3,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Dec 16, 2025

Longines Sector Dial Review: Trendsetting Vintage Style Under $3,000

The Longines Heritage Classic Sector Dial has, in its relatively short time on the market, set itself apart from the rest of the Swiss brand's vintage-inspired Heritage series with its combination of retro charm, understated dimensions, and minimalist aesthetics, all at a very approachable price point, Here is a closer look at the watch, with a brief foray into other recent timepieces that just might have been inspired by its success.  [toc-section heading="A Bit of Longines History"] Longines was founded in 1832 in the Swiss Jura town of Saint-Imier by Auguste Agassiz and two partners. Agassiz (above, left) became the sole proprietor in 1846 after both partners, attorneys by trade, retired from the watch business, and shortly thereafter, he brought his nephew, an enterprising economist named Ernest Françillon (above, right), into the company. It was Françillon, in 1867, who moved all of the firm’s various watchmaking disciplines - which were scattered throughout dozens of independent workshops called établisseurs - under one roof, to a factory that was situated in a scenic area called “Les Longines” or “The Long Meadows,” thus giving the company its now-familiar name.  In 1889, Francillon registered the famous Longines logo with a winged hourglass - today the world’s oldest unchanged, active logo according to the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO). Among Longines’ many milestones under Françillon’s management were the company’s ...

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First Look – Lederer Inverto Titanium 39mm, a Superb Inverted Take on the Central Impulse Chronometer Monochrome
Dec 10, 2025

First Look – Lederer Inverto Titanium 39mm, a Superb Inverted Take on the Central Impulse Chronometer

With the Inverto Titanium, independent watchmaking atelier Lederer refines the 2023 Central Impulse Chronometer InVerto, a large 44mm watch in a blackened case, into a compact, titanium-framed display of one of the most sophisticated escapement architectures in modern watchmaking. It’s a culmination of forty years of mechanical experimentation, distilled into 39mm of pure chronometric artistry, […]

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Formex Doubles Down On Ceramic With The Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC “Dark Matter” 41mm Fratello
Formex Doubles Down Dec 10, 2025

Formex Doubles Down On Ceramic With The Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC “Dark Matter” 41mm

What do you do when you have a good thing going? You double down, of course! Formex spent years developing a ceramic Essence with best-in-class finishing and a first-ever ceramic micro-adjustable clasp. The Swiss brand fitted it with a skeletonized dial for its debut earlier this year. And then, Formex doubled down indeed. This September, […] Visit Formex Doubles Down On Ceramic With The Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC “Dark Matter” 41mm to read the full article.

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First Look – The 2025 Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Freeride World Tour Special Edition Monochrome
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Freeride Dec 10, 2025

First Look – The 2025 Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Freeride World Tour Special Edition

For its ninth year partnering with Alpiner Extreme Automatic Freeride World Tour Special Edition (FWT), Alpina introduces a fresh take on the Alpiner Extreme Automatic, a model positioned at the intersection of traditional Swiss watchmaking and high-altitude sport. While the brand has long aligned itself with alpine culture, this Special Edition, housed in the compact version […]

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W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Dec 8, 2025

The Ultimate Gift Guide for the College Football Playoff Super Fan in Your Life with AXIA Time

Some gifts last a season, and others last a lifetime. When it comes to celebrating the passion, pride, and pure chaos that define college football, few brands understand the emotional stakes quite like AXIA Time. In addition to being the Official Timepiece of the Heisman Trophy for its second year, they also return this year as the Official Timepiece of the College Football Playoff. AXIA continues to do what it does best: transform season-defining triumphs into Swiss-made timepieces worthy of the journey that led there. For the super fan in your life, the one who can recite bowl history by heart and still gets misty replaying their favorite fourth-quarter comeback, this year’s College Football Playoff collection lands right on time. The post The Ultimate Gift Guide for the College Football Playoff Super Fan in Your Life with AXIA Time appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Doxa and Topper Jewelers Introduce their Second Collaborative Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Doxa Dec 5, 2025

Doxa and Topper Jewelers Introduce their Second Collaborative Limited Edition

While far from Topper Fine Jeweler’s first collaboration, the original Doxa x Topper Sub 300 “Great White” quickly came to define the strong suits of both the watch boutique and the celebrated Swiss brand. That original Great White was based on Doxa’s iconic Sub 300 model, but with some cheeky changes; namely, a luminous white dial, and the distinct lack of a date window. A year later, Doxa and Topper have teamed up again to produce a new version of the Great White, with the specs, and complications, shaken up.  The new Doxa x Topper Sub 250T GMT “Great White” brings back the previous model’s cushion case design, but with slightly smaller dimensions. Measuring in at 40mm by 42.9mm in diameter, the new Great White trades in a fraction of the water resistance (250 meters versus the 300 meters offered on the Sub 300), but swaps in a brand new GMT complication that both shakes up the visuals, and adds a new layer of practicality.  I had the opportunity to wear the new Great White for a few days, and my impressions of the overall design are largely the same as they were for its predecessor: the luminous white dial and Pantone 2955 C dark blue details create a look akin to porcelain pottery, while also calling to mind the iconic fish after which the watch is named. The beautiful beads-of-rice bracelet is back, and very easy to adjust, thanks to a micro-adjustment clasp and easy-to-remove links. It pairs wonderfully with the sleek cushion case and elevates the Gre...

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A Deep Dive Into Minerva In The Montblanc Era Fratello
Montblanc Era It’s October 9th Dec 4, 2025

A Deep Dive Into Minerva In The Montblanc Era

It’s October 9th, 2006, and this news flash appears on the Richemont website: “Richemont, the Swiss luxury goods group, is pleased to announce that it has acquired Fabrique d’Horlogerie Minerva SA in a private transaction from G. P. P. International SA, Luxembourg. The watch brand Minerva was established by Charles Robert in 1858 and is […] Visit A Deep Dive Into Minerva In The Montblanc Era to read the full article.

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Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Sequel to the First Genesis with the Streamliner Genesis 2 Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Unveils Dec 3, 2025

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Sequel to the First Genesis with the Streamliner Genesis 2

When it comes to watch brands, Moser is something of an iconoclast. From the start, Moser took a less conventional path, often taking jabs at the watchmaking industry with the Swiss Alp watch, deriding smartwatches, and the Swiss Mad watch with its Swiss cheese case. Time has worked its way, and Moser’s preoccupations have matured […]

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Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Limited Edition - A New Collaborative Chronograph Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Dec 3, 2025

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Limited Edition - A New Collaborative Chronograph

The collaboration between TAG Heuer and Fragment continues with the new Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Limited Edition, bringing Hiroshi Fujiwara’s keen enthusiast’s eye to the modern Glassbox chronograph. This new release continues the ongoing connection between the streetwear brand and the Swiss watchmakers at TAG Heuer. Once again, we get a clean, monochrome iteration on […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Limited Edition - A New Collaborative Chronograph to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Baltic Prismic Stone Enters the Permanent Collection with New Patterns Monochrome
Baltic Prismic Stone Enters Dec 2, 2025

Introducing – The Baltic Prismic Stone Enters the Permanent Collection with New Patterns

Since 2017, the French watch brand Baltic has built its reputation on compact, retro-inspired designs with sharp detailing and accessible pricing. The Prismic collection, launched in 2024, marked a step up in refinement: a 1960s “cocktail watch” take with a complex steel-and-titanium case, crisp Dauphine hands and a slim hand-wound Swiss calibre. Later that year, […]

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Piaget Polo Review: How The '80s Luxury Watch Icon Holds Up Teddy Baldassarre
Piaget Dec 1, 2025

Piaget Polo Review: How The '80s Luxury Watch Icon Holds Up

While it’s more widely known for its jewelry these days, Piaget, founded in the small Swiss village of La Cote-aux-Fées by Georges Piaget in 1874, has been a watchmaker from the beginning. Its original trade, in fact, was making movements, and the company began making complete watches in In the 20th century. Before getting into the Piaget Polo, it's worth it to get into the brand's history in thin watchmaking. Since 1957, when Piaget created the historic 2mm-thick Caliber 9P, the company has been world renowned for the elegant thinness of its watches and movements. The world’s thinnest self-winding mechanical movement, Caliber 12P, followed Caliber 9P just three years later, in 1960, and Piaget has building upon these foundations ever since. Its most recent triumph in this area was the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, which debuted in 2018 as a prototype and hit the market in 2020; the entire watch, case and movement, is just 2mm thick, matching the wafer thinness of the original Caliber 9P. Along with Bulgari, another watchmaker known more for its jewelry, Piaget continues to embody the ne plus ultra of what ultra-thin watchmaking can accomplish.  [toc-section heading="The Integrated Bracelet Era Begins"] However, while “thin and elegant” remains the calling card of the Piaget watch brand overall, the market was looking for something a little different - a little bolder, perhaps - in the 1970s. Audemars Piguet had introduced its groundbreaking Royal Oak “Jumbo...

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Introducing – The Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365, the Next Chapter in Sound and Substance Monochrome
Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 Dec 1, 2025

Introducing – The Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365, the Next Chapter in Sound and Substance

As part of its 250th anniversary celebrations, Breguet closed the year with a grande finale, the Experimental 1 and its innovative magnetic escapement. But there was one more watch as part of the celebratory collection… The Classique Répétition Minutes 7365, a new limited-edition minute repeater rooted in the brand’s heritage while pointing firmly to its […]

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A Novel Sales Model: This New MoonSwatch Is Only Available When It Snows In Switzerland Fratello
Nov 30, 2025

A Novel Sales Model: This New MoonSwatch Is Only Available When It Snows In Switzerland

This new MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold will become available on December 4th. However, after that date, this MoonSwatch model will be available only when the Swiss see snowflakes. Though it will be for sale at select Swatch boutiques worldwide, it will be subject to local weather conditions in Switzerland. And the sales of […] Visit A Novel Sales Model: This New MoonSwatch Is Only Available When It Snows In Switzerland to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium Chronometer LE Monochrome
Nov 28, 2025

Introducing – The Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium Chronometer LE

Independent and proudly small-scale, Brellum thrives carving its niche in modern Swiss watchmaking. Founded by fourth-generation watchmaker Sébastien Muller, the brand produces only 299 pieces per year, each officially COSC-certified, meticulously decorated, and sold directly to end consumers. Following the recent release of the Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE in steel, Brellum now offers a […]

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The A. Lange & Söhne Centennial Tourbillon Comes Home Fratello
Casio n Nov 24, 2025

The A. Lange & Söhne Centennial Tourbillon Comes Home

The 1900 Paris World Exhibition was quite the event. The Grand Palais and Petit Palais were built for the occasion, and visitors could marvel at technological marvels, like the first escalators, the Rue de l’Avenir moving sidewalk, the city’s first metro line, as well as recreations of old Paris and a Swiss village, along with […] Visit The A. Lange & Söhne Centennial Tourbillon Comes Home to read the full article.

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Oris ProPilot Date Review: The Big Crown ProPilot Evolved Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Nov 19, 2025

Oris ProPilot Date Review: The Big Crown ProPilot Evolved

The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Date has a prestigious history starting with the founding of the independent Swiss brand that makes it. Oris began making watches in 1904, when it was founded in Hölstein, Switzerland, by Paul Cattin and Georges Christian, who named the company after a nearby brook. A maker of pocket watches and, by 1925, the increasingly popular wristwatches, Oris enjoyed a long period of growth and expansion throughout the following decades and even made its own movements. Losing its independence during the consolidation years of the Quartz Crisis, Oris regained it in the 1980s, when a management buyout transformed the company and solidified its mission to make only mechanical watches going forward. Today, Oris has become a staple for value-conscious collectors of Swiss-made watches, particularly sport-oriented models. Among the brand’s modern pillars are the dressy Big Crown Pointer Date and the more aviation-centric Big Crown ProPilot, which trace their existence all the way back to 1938. That year marked the launch of the first Oris watch dubbed “Big Crown,” named after its signature element, an oversized, fluted winding crown meant to be easy to grasp and to operate by a pilot wearing heavy gloves. The modern edition of the Big Crown ProPilot debuted in 2014 (example above), notably adding what is today one of its signature features: a knurled bezel that resembles a jet turbine.  Oris has revamped, tweaked, and added complications to the original, ...

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Tudor Ranger Review: New 36mm Case And "Dune" White Dial Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Nov 19, 2025

Tudor Ranger Review: New 36mm Case And "Dune" White Dial

Along with their more refined timepieces, Swiss luxury brands have staked their claim in the field watch space as well. Tudor’s offering in the category is the contemporary 39mm Ranger, a name that features prominently throughout the brand's history. Descended from the 1950s Tudor Oyster Prince Reference 7909, Tudor introduced the 34mm Ranger Reference 7995 in 1965, with the model name remaining in the lineup all the way through the 1980s. It was the 7995 that established the Ranger’s design language, with its 12-3- 6-9 dial layout and iconic spade hour hand, all of which later made a comeback in 2014 in a somewhat oversized 41mm version. The Ranger got a reboot in 2022 as a 39mm model, with a fully brushed case and COSC-certified MT5402 movement, and it serves as not only a nod to Tudor field watches of yore, but also as a throwback to the tool-watch aesthetics of the Rolex Explorer 1016 from Tudor's parent brand. Released in July of 2022 to mark the 70th anniversary of the British North Greenland Expedition, the modern Ranger 79950 is a welcome update from that discontinued 41mm model of 2014. With a versatile 39mm case and a COSC-certified manufacture movement, the Ranger is a strong value play, hovering around $3,500 on the bracelet. Much like the vintage Ranger (and the original Rolex Explorer that provided much of its DNA), it’s a fantastic daily driver, with a fully satin-brushed finish and 100 meters of water resistance. And if you crave a more authentic tool...

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First Look – The New Bulgari Octo Finissimo Mattar Bin Lahej Limited Edition Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Mattar Bin Nov 19, 2025

First Look – The New Bulgari Octo Finissimo Mattar Bin Lahej Limited Edition

Attaining iconic status in the world of watchmaking is no easy feat. This, however, is what Bulgari has achieved in just ten years, with the bold contemporary Italian design and sophisticated Swiss mechanics of the Octo Finissimo lineup. Its impressive lineup turned the Roman Maison into a master of ultra-thin mechanical watchmaking, as the brand has […]

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Introducing – Born in the USA, Avoirdupois Debuts with the 100% American-Made Force Majeure Watch Monochrome
Nov 17, 2025

Introducing – Born in the USA, Avoirdupois Debuts with the 100% American-Made Force Majeure Watch

We have exciting news from the United States, and it has nothing to do with the Trump Administration’s Swiss watch import tariffs or their recent reduction. Avoirdupois, a New York City-based brand founded in 2017 by designer/engineer James Stumpf, has expanded its product mix beyond retro-styled furniture and lighting products to include watches. Designed and […]

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Hands-On With Four Versions Of The Louis Erard 2340 In Steel And Titanium   Fratello
Louis Erard 2340 Nov 17, 2025

Hands-On With Four Versions Of The Louis Erard 2340 In Steel And Titanium  

What can you do in Le Noirmont, a town of 1,629 inhabitants situated in the Swiss canton of Jura? You can go for a hike in the mountains surrounding the village. And if you’re into watches, a visit to the Musée de la Boîte de Montre (The Watch Case Museum) is a good idea. It’s […] Visit Hands-On With Four Versions Of The Louis Erard 2340 In Steel And Titanium   to read the full article.

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Viridian Starfall: Orient Star’s M34 F8 Date SJX Watches
Seiko Epson Nov 17, 2025

Viridian Starfall: Orient Star’s M34 F8 Date

Among Japan’s best-kept secrets, Orient Star occupies an intriguing middle ground between tradition and technology. Its latest creation, the Orient Star M34 F8 Date Green, captures that duality perfectly by combining an old-school movement with state-of-the-art dial and escapement components drawn from the vast capabilities of its parent company, Seiko Epson. The result is a watch that feels distinctly Japanese in both spirit and execution. The M34’s new green dial is embossed with a hand-engraved stamp and coated with an optical multi-layer film that creates shifting hues without a trace of pigment - an effect more often associated with much costlier watches. Beneath its shimmering surface lies Orient Star’s enduring in-house F8 movement, which continues a lineage that dates back to 1971.   Initial thoughts The dial of the M34 immediately distinguishes it within its segment. Its engraved texture, embossed from a hand-engraved die, gives the surface a natural radiance, while the iridescent green tone - created through a PVD-applied optical multi-layer film - shifts fluidly under changing light. It’s a distinctly upmarket look that signals the depth of the Epson manufacturing ecosystem behind it. The case reflects that same industrial prowess, made entirely in-house within Seiko Epson’s facilities, using 316L stainless steel finished with Sallaz (more commonly known as ‘Zaratsu’) polishing to achieve distortion-free mirrored bevels. The 40 mm size and ...

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