Deployant
Deployant Reacts: The GQ edit of the best new watches in 2023
Continuing our Deployant Reacts series, today we take a look at and react to the GQ UK's list of best new watches in 2023. On to the Sunday Roast!
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Deployant
Continuing our Deployant Reacts series, today we take a look at and react to the GQ UK's list of best new watches in 2023. On to the Sunday Roast!
Revolution
In the maiden episode of our new series - The Collector’s Perspective, Constant sits down with Nop Srinara to share a conversation centred around their shared passion for watch collecting. Besides starting his micro brand, Vilhelm Watches, Nop is also the founder of The Octo Club, an appreciation club for the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo. The […]
Worn & Wound
“Out of Office” is a series of stories accounting our experiences trying to find moments of solace outdoors, as well as our interaction with the gear that comes along with us, and that most certainly includes the watches on our wrist. Out of Office is an escape. It’s about finding an opportunity to put the world on pause, whether it’s the few minutes you take out of your day to read this article, or its the couple of hours you dedicate to getting out there. It’s where our experience meets our enthusiasm. Through this series we’ve already seen our Editors do explore the California coast with a Grand Seiko, explore a glacier via seaplane with a Citizen and navigate the crevasses of a desert canyon with a Vero. Let’s continue this journey together and see where it takes us.” With summer officially on our doorstep, the opportunities for adventure, relaxation or any way you want to spend the longest days of the year are endless. You can take advantage of the earlier sunrise to get in a longer dawn patrol session before work, or go for a leisurely hike after office hours with still a ton of daylight to spare. If you’re the less adventurous type, then that’s cool too. Head out to your local beach and dig into that book that you’ve been meaning to read, or just lay out and check back into reality whenever you deem it fit. If your local surroundings aren’t stimulating enough, then put those vacation days to work. That’s what they’re there for, right? Boo...
Worn & Wound
Just over two years ago, Oris came out with a series of watches with a bronze case and a confectionary dial. At the time, the interplay of the pastel-colored watches against such a warm-toned metal was an instant hit for many in the watch world. It was only a matter of time before the Swiss brand would be revisiting the Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection and improving upon it. Today, Oris has launched the much-anticipated follow-up to their 2021 collection with a new set of pieces, this time set in steel. The three colorways of this collection are a charming trio of blue, green, and pink. Still maintaining the candy-like quality of the previous iteration, the steel will definitely have a wider fanbase that, perhaps, couldn’t be sold on the bronze just yet. Keeping the integrity of the Divers Sixty-Five retro design, the new Cotton Candy collection’s steel case enhances the mod design that’s at once retro and modern. The steel case comes in at a friendly 38mm, the first time the Divers Sixty-Five has been available in this metal at this size in a non-limited edition, which is sure to please many. The easy to wear size makes it great for both men and women who might find the pop of color exciting. Wearers can choose between a steel bracelet or a perlon strap that matches the watch’s dial, giving one the opportunity to keep it subtle or a bit more flamboyant. The details of this watch really showcase the amount of thoughtfulness that has gone into the design ...
Worn & Wound
Last year’s Massena LAB collaboration with Louis Erard, a regulator in an unmistakably classic style with variants in gold and rhodium dial executions, was a success for both brands, with the watch being shortlisted for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This week, that release gets a follow up in the form of the new Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Louis Erard x Massena LAB, a monopusher chronograph that shifts the design language of last year’s release to a new complication. The driving force behind Massena LAB, to make a style of watchmaking typically reserved for only the most well heeled collectors accessible to anyone, is very much apparent in the new monopusher, as it takes both a complication and visual aesthetic that are often associated with a certain level of opulence and made them quite a bit more approachable. The monopusher is an interesting counterpoint to last year’s regulator. In terms of mechanical complexity, the monopusher has a clear edge, yet the design here is striking in its restraint. The regulator shows its time telling information in a busy cluster of hands and subdials, but with the monopusher we only get one additional register, a 30 minute counter at the 12:00 position. It’s a simple and straightforward execution of a complication that can often be something of an eye chart, and with the single pusher that simplicity is carried over to the chronograph’s literal operation as well. Aesthetically, we get a similar treatment on the ...
Worn & Wound
SYE (Start Your Engine) is a French watch brand born of the founder’s interest in classic cars, and of course, watches. Not a new story, but their approach to watch design is. SYE has specifically honed in on the idea of leather hood straps for inspiration, appreciating how they incorporate a natural material in with otherwise metal creations. The result is the Mot1on (motion) series of watches, which utilize a novel, complicated, and stylish strap system to fuse metal and leather. $650 [Video] Hands-On: SYE Mot1on Bullitt Limited Edition Chronograph Case Titanium Movement Seiko VK64 Meca-Quartz Dial Green Panda Lume Hands Only Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 50M Dimensions 40.5 x 39.5mm Thickness 14mm Lug Width mm Crown Push-Pull Warranty Yes Price $650 As you’ll see in the video below, the SYE Mot1on chronograph comes in pieces in a box, requiring you to interact with the product upon arrival. Assembly is simple enough, and forces you to appreciate the quality of the product. The watch head has some unique details that give it personality, but the strap itself is what really impressed me. It’s a complex and high-end construction that could cost as much as the whole watch itself if a luxury brand made it. As someone with some experience in making leather straps, it really impressed me. The watch shown in the video is the Bullitt Limited Edition, which is the only SYE to feature a titanium case at this time. Measuring 40.5mm in diameter, it’s essential...
Time+Tide
At this specific moment in my life, there’s no way I should even think about buying another watch. On the back of a series of interest rates hike and with a looming renovation for our family home, this just isn’t the right time to splash the cash. And yet… The problem with doing this job … ContinuedThe post Close but no cigar: Why I welcome horological deal breakers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
If you are on a quest for the “cheapest” Audemars Piguet watch, it’s best to accept one truism right up front: that the cheapest AP is still going to be, for most, a major investment. When it comes to the most desirable Audemars Piguet watches, you can expect to lay out no less than five figures even for a pre-owned model, and new models are so highly in demand that even their already pricey MSRPs will prove to be a frustrating mirage for many prospective buyers, as those watches will regularly be marked up even higher on the secondary market. Nevertheless, in keeping with our previous guides covering Rolex and Patek Philippe, and in the spirit of every Audemars Piguet owner/collector needing to start somewhere, here are three entry-level options from three AP collections, with some details on what makes each one distinctive. (Whether those distinctions are enough to move you to buy one will be up to you and, perhaps, your financial advisor.) Audemars Piguet began making watches in 1875, when founders Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet first registered the brand in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Now headquartered in the town of Le Brassus, it remains one of the very few privately owned firms in the watchmaking industry, still in the hands of the Audemars family. Renamed Audemars Piguet & Cie in 1881, the company primarily manufactured movements for other firms in its earliest days, including Tiffany and Co., but later gained renown for milestones like t...
Worn & Wound
A watch, like any designed object, is the product of a series of decisions, and those decisions can define it. At some point, whoever is making the thing has to determine what type of watch it’s going to be, what sort of movement it will have, the size, the style of handset and indices, the dial colors, and so forth. The most successful watches, in my opinion, are those made by people who have come to tough but deliberate decisions. We’ve all seen watches that feel like they are just too much in one way or another, and they never tend to work. The new Geometry by Schwarz Etienne is literally the watch equivalent of a fully loaded luxury car: when it comes to dial finishes, it has every option. But instead of being too much, it works in a sort of psychedelic way. Whatever you think of it, I think it’s hard to argue that it’s the product of some serious decision making. The Geometry comes to us via designer Eric Giroud, who has previously worked with brands as diverse as Louis Erard, MB&F;, Mido, and many more. The dial is divided into four distinct quadrants, each incorporating different dial finishes and patterns. You can imagine any one of the single quadrants made as an entire dial, and the watch would probably look great. But broken into pieces, you get a sense of how these different patterns and finishes work with and against one another. The fact that it’s somewhat jarring to look at at first is a reminder of the difficulty of watch design in the first plac...
Deployant
Banking on the huge success of their Top Gun series, IWC releases new Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe White Ceramic.
Worn & Wound
The week’s episode of A Week In Watches takes a look at new releases from Longines, Seiko, Rolex, MB&F;, and …Seiko. Yes we’ve got multiple Seiko watches to discuss here and yes, they are both pretty awesome. The sporty theme continues with a new Daytona released by Rolex during the 100th running of the 24 hour race of Le Mans. It brings back the exotic dial and nails a lot of details in the process. In what may prove to be more relevant news, Longines has introduced a smaller Spirit Zulu Time GMT, now available in a trim-ish 39mm case. The newest Spirit Zulu Time comes at a perfect time, sitting alongside the 42mm variant we saw released last year. More choices is always better for enthusiasts, and we think you’ll find a lot to love in not just this release from Longines, but what’s yet to come. Don’t miss out live pics of the 39mm Zulu Time in our introduction right here. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 54: Throwbacks Galore; Speedtimers & Daytonas; Longines Dials In the Zulu Time appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
With its incredibly expansive catalogue of references and huge production numbers, the original Seiko 5 collection still feels like a pillar of the watchmaking landscape. Despite a complete refresh of the series, discontinuing all existing models in 2019 and starting from scratch, the remaining stock usually still offers fantastic value and cool designs. For that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 Sports retro colour collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Sometimes, weird things happen on the watch release calendar that result in an almost mystical kind of synergy. We didn’t plan today as “racing inspired chronograph day,” but the surprise release of a new Rolex Daytona paying tribute to the 100th anniversary of Le Mans and an equally surprising new Seiko chronograph with more than a little racing and competitive timing heritage means that today is all about the many flavors of tracking elapsed time. Rounding out a trilogy of new chronographs today, we have news of the latest limited edition from Porsche Design, a special variant of the Chronograph 1 celebrating 75 years of Porsche. As car enthusiasts are likely well aware, this year marks the 75th anniversary of the first Porsche, the 356 No. 1 roadster. In the decades since, Porsche has become not just one of the most important carmakers in the world, but one of the most recognizable brands of any type. Porsche vehicles are known all over the world, and their iconic silhouettes and designs can be easily recognized even by people who don’t count themselves as car aficionados. The new watch, according to Porsche Design, is a tribute to the culture and legacy Porsche has built. The Chronograph 1 75 Years of Porsche Edition is very similar to the 1972 Limited Edition variant of the watch released last year, and discussed by Blake here. The differences are honestly so minute, they might only be appreciated by the most rabid Porsche Design collectors, but this is a ...
Worn & Wound
This weekend marked the 100th running of the 24 hour race of Le Mans at the Circuit de la Sarthe in France, and Rolex took full advantage of the occasion with the release of a new Daytona with a dial that recalls the now famous ‘exotic’ dial, aka Newman dial, of older references. This release is surprising for a few reasons, and may even offer some insight to what we might expect from Rolex moving forward. We’ll get to all that, but in many ways, this is the Daytona that enthusiasts have been asking for since the late ‘80s – it’s the ‘greatest hits’ watch, perfectly capitalizing on the the new Daytona chassis released just earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, which we went hands-on with right here. First and foremost, Rolex is not in the habit of dropping new releases outside of their regular yearly cadence. We last saw it with the release of the Deepsea Challenge in late 2022, the first commercial Rolex to tout their RLX titanium material. While that watch could be considered something of an outlier, given its rather extreme nature, the Daytona is another story entirely. This new reference, the 126529LN officially, joins the new collection as a regular production model. That reference number ends in four characters that have never appeared together in the Daytona family, the 29 indicating a full white gold case and bracelet, and LN, or Lunette Noir, meaning it sports a black Cerachrom bezel. Vintage Rolex Daytona reference 6263 with exotic dial The firs...
Worn & Wound
As an object of pure fascination, there are few watch designs that come close to H. Moser’s Streamliner. I have been low key obsessed with it since the first Streamliner appeared in early, pre-pandemic 2020. That first chronograph was, at first, baffling to me. I found myself drawn to it even though I’m not really much of a chronograph guy, integrated bracelet sports watches aren’t my thing, and, at the time, I didn’t really appreciate Moser, either. At the end of the day, the Streamliner’s subversion of my own expectations of what a luxury integrated bracelet sports watch should be are what makes it successful. If you find the Royal Oak cold and clinical, the Streamliner is warm and organic by comparison. If the Nautilus is the choice of Patagonia-vested finance bros, the Streamliner gets the endorsement of sneakerheads. Even at its most opulent, it’s the kind of watch that makes me feel kind of giddy, as opposed to slack-jawed intimidation, which doesn’t always translate into a successful wearing experience in my opinion. In a landscape of integrated bracelet sports watches that all kind of feel like riffs on each other, the Streamliner still feels like a true original to me. For those reasons, I’m always interested in new versions of the Streamliner. As a blank canvas, it’s capable of communicating all of the things Moser excels at, depending on how they decide to execute any particular reference. The latest Streamliner is an update to the original c...
Worn & Wound
The fifth, and presumably final, installment of the Indiana Jones series hits theaters at the end of June, and with a title like Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny, you kind of had to expect that there would be a watch tie-in. For this film, the watch on Indy’s wrist is a Hamilton, a fitting choice given the character’s occupation (the most heroic archaeologist in cinema history) and the long history of the brand showing up in major Hollywood movies. Hamilton watches have been featured on the wrists of movie stars for nearly 100 years, worn by everyone from Elvis Presley to Matthew McConaughey (with the watch sometimes playing a critical role in the storytelling). While it remains to be seen if the watch itself is a plot point in Dial of Destiny (we’ll let you know as soon as we see the film), the Hamilton Boulton selected for this new installment helps draw in some of the finer details of one of the all-time great movie characters. Indiana Jones is a character with a well established aesthetic. He’s one of a small handful of characters that movie buffs can easily identify with only a silhouette, or by the sight of a key prop. Indy’s fedora and whip have helped to establish a specific iconography for the character since Raiders of the Lost Ark premiered in 1981, so it’s important to get the watch right as well – it has to exist within an environment that is already well established and understood by fans of the franchise. The Boulton is part of Hamilto...
Worn & Wound
It’s easy to get caught up in finding the perfect trio of watches for your ‘core collection’; the watches that cover all your bases, from mowing the lawn, to your best friend’s wedding. We have a series here called The Three Watch Collection for $5,000 in which readers attempt to do just this within a given budget. It generally goes something like this: three watches that are largely inoffensive and fit within the broadest possible range of your wardrobe, and cover you for the broadest possible range of events. They are practical, conventionally attractive, and blend in without drawing too much attention to themselves. That’s all fine and well, and I’m sure that if you’re reading this, a few of your own watches immediately come to mind as your core daily companions. But what comes next? With a good foundation in place, surely it’s only natural to explore the periphery a bit, and it is here that we discover the realm of the 4th watch. The idea of a great 4th (or 5th, 6th, and beyond?) watch is less bound by the practical constraints we place around our core watches that get the most wrist time. Whether it fits under a cuff, or clashes with your outfits, or is even all that easy to read is besides the point. The 4th watch may rarely find itself being worn (initially, at least), but it might speak to the true nature of our taste or passion in watches. These are the watches we wear purely for the joy or fun of it. That doesn’t always mean they are impractic...
Deployant
In this new series, we will profile TV characters and help them to build their watch collection. This week, we will be featuring Kendall Roy of Succession.
Quill & Pad
Dr. William Julien, an experienced watch collector, sent us a link to a video that he and his son, William Alexander Julien, made about the journey of his commissioning of a bespoke Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire. The nine-minute video is very moving and beautifully filmed and edited. I highly recommend that you pour yourself a glass of your favorite tipple and hit play: it will not disappoint.
Hodinkee
The 100 series at its most minimal, and with a bracelet.
Worn & Wound
It has been almost 50 years since the first time the iconic orange dial Doxa appeared on the wrist of Dirk Pitt in Clive Cussler’s adventure novel series. But the famed novelist and maritime explorer’s connection with Doxa occurred way before the diver was cemented as part of his protagonist’s far-flung adventures. As a budding author, Cussler decided to take a part-time gig at a dive shop; not only because the schedule was ideal for writing, but because he wanted to immerse himself in the diving world to find all sorts of inspiration for his novel’s plots and characters. While simultaneously applying his talents as a previous Creative Director for a prominent LA ad agency to the dive shop’s operation, Cussler worked his way into his first-ever publishing deal. It was then, the owner of the dive shop gifted Cussler a Doxa. Clive Cussler’s son, and an author himself, Dirk Cussler, clarified on stage during a special event hosted by Doxa and Watches of Switzerland at the New York Yacht Club, that his father had his choice of what was in the display case that very day. He fittingly went with an orange dial Doxa Sub 300T and the rest as they say, is history. Clive Cussler’s legacy lives on through his children, the adventures of Dirk Pitt and the efforts of the National Underwater and Marine Agency (NUMA), a non-profit organization he founded that’s dedicated to preserving the history beneath the ocean’s surface. With the new special edition release from Doxa...
SJX Watches
Ending months of speculation, Audemars Piguet (AP) has finally filled the role of chief executive officer after outgoing boss Francois-Henry Bennahmias revealed his intention to depart last year. The Le Brassus watchmaker famous for the Royal Oak just announced that the top job will go to Ilaria Resta, formerly the president at a privately-held fragrances giant headquartered in Geneva. According to the announcement, Ms Resta joins AP in August this year and officially assumes the chief executive role on January 1, 2024. Mr Bennahmias will remain to assist with the transition until the end of 2023. A thirty-year veteran of the brand, the flamboyant Mr Bennahmias quadrupled AP’s annual revenue during his tenure, with its sales last year hitting the CHF2 billion mark. His successor’s résumé, however, suggests the board might be looking for someone who understands branding on a global and mass-market scale. With a long and accomplished career in fast-moving consumer goods, Ms Resta’s background is unusual for the leader of a major luxury watch brand. She was most recently President of Global Perfumery & Beauty President at Firmenich, a Swiss firm that is one of the world’s largest fragrances companies and, like AP, family controlled. For over two decades until 2020, Ms Resta held a range of roles at Procter & Gamble, covering sectors ranging from laundry to hair care. “Her proven record of delivering results through a clear strategic thinking based on deep consumer...
Time+Tide
If you ask the average person to name a watch brand, they’ll most likely say Rolex. Such is the power of the company which arguably perfected the sports watch, and also transformed wristwatch marketing methods with memorable campaigns and endorsements. In terms of pure dollars, Rolex dominate the Swiss watch industry as well, with US$9.7B … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… There were no more Rolex waitlists? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
After reading article after article discussing the virtues of Patek Philippe's Nautilus, it became clear to watch enthusiast and Quill & Pad reader Perry Heim that none stated a self-evident truth that appears obvious to him. In this "letter to the editor" Perry explains in detail what he finds so appealing about the Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711. And he stacks the Nautilus up against some serious contemporary contenders.
Teddy Baldassarre
The sixth and final season of AMC’s prestige drama series Better Call Saul, the prequel to the award-winning Breaking Bad, dropped on Netflix back in April, and a wristwatch that appears prominently in the series finale has caught the attention of avid small-screen watch spotters. Some of them may remember - while others may have missed - seeing the watch for the first time in Breaking Bad, where it played an even more significant symbolic role in the storyline of its owner, Walter White, played by multiple Emmy winning lead actor Bryan Cranston. Here is the story behind Walter White’s watch and why it is so much more than just a prop. When we first meet Walter White, in the premiere episode of Breaking Bad on January 20, 2008, he is a somewhat pitiable figure: an underpaid, underappreciated high school chemistry teacher who drives a Pontiac Aztek (remember those?), wears a cheap digital watch, and struggles to support his small family, which includes caring for a son with cerebral palsy. In that same pilot episode, Walter learns he has terminal cancer - a diagnosis that triggers the desperate and increasingly ruthless quest for illicit riches and power that defines the arc of the series, as Walter evolves from hapless, nondescript educator to the crystal meth kingpin of Albuquerque, New Mexico. (Series creator Vince Gilligan has described its high concept as “Mr. Chips becomes Scarface.”) The first watch that we saw Walter wearing is a fairly humble one, a ...
Worn & Wound
“Out of Office” is a series of stories accounting our experiences trying to find moments of solace outdoors, as well as our interaction with the gear that comes along with us, and that most certainly includes the watches on our wrist. Out of Office is an escape. It’s about finding an opportunity to put the world on pause, whether it’s the few minutes you take out of your day to read this article, or its the couple of hours you dedicate to getting out there. It’s where our experience meets our enthusiasm. Through this series we’ve already seen our authors do a hike in the local hills with a Sinn, explore a glacier via seaplane with a Citizen and a road trip through New England with a Rolex. Let’s continue this journey together and see where it takes us.” It’s no secret that I love the west coast. I might have been born in Tennessee, but my heart belongs in California. The ocean, the trees, the mountains…they just have my soul. I was recently in San Francisco for our annual Windup Watch Fair and decided to take a few days after the event to travel North up the Sonoma Coast, then back down to Monterey before heading back to Nashville. I expected a fun relaxing vacation with my BFF and that’s exactly what I got. Before I dive into some of the places I visited on this trip, I want to quickly go over some of the gear I brought with me. My camera of choice for this vacation was the Panasonic Lumix S5II with the Panasonic 85mm 1.8 lens. This camera is on lo...
Time+Tide
I get it, it’s the end of the week and you are probably rushing off to the pub to down a pint or slump on the couch to binge the latest Netflix series. But, before you wind down, here are three watch world highlights you may have missed. Massena HOUSE to be a new hub … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Massena HOUSE, Father’s Day watchmaking class coming to UK and Ferragamo watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Swatch x Jean-Michel Basquiat collection marks the final collaboration of the Art Journey project Previous collaborations were with MoMA, Magritte, Louvre Abu Dhabi, and Le Gallerie Degli Uffizi The triptych includes three quartz-driven pieces inspired by Basquiat’s ‘Ishtar’, ‘Untitled’, and ‘Hollywood Africans’ artworks Swatch as a brand, not the conglomerate group, is widely credited … ContinuedThe post Swatch wraps up their 2023 Art Journey with new Jean-Michel Basquiat triptych appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Two new variants, the SPB415 and SPB417 join the Seiko Sharp Edged Series The 6R5J movement debuts with 72 hours of power reserve New details can be found on the case finishing and the dial Seiko’s Presage collection is known for its versatility, offering everything from higher-end Masterpiece models to more affordable Cocktail Time timepieces. … ContinuedThe post A new three-day movement for the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you could only watch movies from one series for the rest of your life, what would it be? Personally, due to the fact that the Marvel cinematic universe is far too expansive, the three I’d choose between are the Star Wars films, the Harry Potter films or the James Bond films. But were it … ContinuedThe post New Indiana Jones trailer shows Harrison Ford wearing a Hamilton for the saga-ending film appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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