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Results for Perpetual Calendar

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Exclusive · Guide
Fears Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar: Britain's Most Ambitious Brunswick Yet

A compact perpetual calendar from a 180-year-old British brand hitting a genuine milestone

Exclusive · Guide
Vacheron Constantin Brings Back the Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, Now With 70 Days of Reserve

The most clever perpetual calendar in the business just got a meaningful upgrade, and it's still only 41 mm

Exclusive · Guide
Patek Philippe Reference 5978P: The Seventh Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in 187 Years

A Milan exclusive, a platinum case, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar chronograph that marks only the seventh such reference in Patek Philippe history

Wiki · Guide
Perpetual Calendar

The mechanical calendar that knows leap years automatically through 2100.

Vacheron Constantin’s Twin Beat Returns with 70-Day Power Reserve SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Twin Beat Returns Jun 16, 2026

Vacheron Constantin’s Twin Beat Returns with 70-Day Power Reserve

First launched in 2019, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar remains one of the most fascinating watches in its category. Thanks to a movement with a secondary, low-power mode, the Twin Beat has an extended power reserve measured in months – all contained in a reasonably sized, 41 mm case. The original version of the Twin Beat was complex and finicky. Now Vacheron Constantin (VC) has refined and upgraded the movement, resulting in a second generation model with an extra five days of power reserve in Standby mode – which means the watch will run for 70 days. Initial thoughts I described the original Twin Beat as a “genuinely interesting, albeit pricey, watch”. Even though several years have passed, the Twin Beat remains genuinely interesting. It is a novel concept executed in a sophisticated manner. In contrast to majority of ultra-long power reserve watches, the Twin Beat is ordinarily sized. I am certainly glad VC has revived the concept and made it better. The original probably had a few kinks in the movement that made production difficult so the first generation never really made it to market in significant numbers. The kinks have been resolved with the new version, which is probably also more robust from a usability point of view. The same holds true today of the price, though given the overall price index of the market, the new Twin Beat is arguably less expensive in relative terms. The first generation model Two running modes On ...

Bring a Loupe: A Cartier Platinum Pocket Watch, A Gilt Rolex Explorer, An Omega Railmaster, And A Broad Arrow Polerouter Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre ? Have Jun 5, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Cartier Platinum Pocket Watch, A Gilt Rolex Explorer, An Omega Railmaster, And A Broad Arrow Polerouter

June's upon us, everyone, and while technically it's still spring, let's all agree to go ahead and round up to summer right now. You're salivating for beach time, or checking the market for pointers about what to do regarding the SpaceX IPO, or you couldn't care about either, and your full attention is on what seems likely to be a wildly excellent NBA finals. Regardless of where your attention's generally pointed, let's look at some watches together before you're whisked off to full weekend mode. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Universal Geneve Super went for a mere €550, the Movado for CHF 2,600, the Rotary Compressor for £350, while the Rolex Submariner Ref 16800 somehow sold for only $60,000 HKD ($7,655). The Louis Vuitton Monterey II also sold. Strays Photo courtesy FauveParis. No-name skin divers will always get under my skin, and this week there's this sweet-looking Allaine. Or are you after an overwhelmingly 1980s quartz perpetual calendar from Corum? As you wish. How about an extraordinarily clean manual-wind Seamaster dress watch? Get it. Someone, please bid on this and *also* pay once you've won: this Autavia has popped up thrice over the last two months, and certainly one of you has a soft spot for modular chronograph movements that'll lead your favorite watchmaker to curse you, right? A Heuer triple calendar in 14k gold, perhaps? Ta da. A fantastic Jaeger-LeCoultre? Have at it. Finally, I don't know if this Omega Speedmaster 145.022 is actually NOS, but ...

Introducing - A New Platinum Version of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual After May 27, 2026

Introducing - A New Platinum Version of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual

After the impressively complex watches released by Jaeger-LeCoultre at Watches & Wonders 2026, including the Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon or the Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin, the Grande Maison now presents a re-edition of its Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, an ambitious creation uniting the brand’s Duometre concept with a triple-axis tourbillon and a perpetual calendar complemented […]

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas May 26, 2026

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre

The most talked-about release from Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) at Watches & Wonders was the refreshed Master Control collection, which debuted on a surprising integrated bracelet. Available with or without perpetual calendar or power reserve complications, the Master Control Chronometre is powered by the latest version of the brand’s long-running cal. 899, which is now certified by both COSC and a new internal standard called the High Performance Guarantee (HPG). Initial thoughts Since the Master Control Chronometre debuted at Watches & Wonders, I have been asked multiple times whether it is a dress watch or a sport watch. Setting aside the issue of the false dichotomy that exists between these categories, the Master Control Chronometre presents itself primarily as a dress watch on a bracelet. While the bracelet’s angular facets evoke those of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, the staid Master Control dial is what defines the look. The simple sunray finish and slim hands — not to mention the lack of any lume — firmly root the Master Control Chronometre in the dress watch category. The soft blue and brown dials are each attractive in their own right, with colour-matched date wheels to avoid any harsh transitions. While the text is arguably superfluous, the ‘Chronometre’ label is more interesting than the typical ‘Automatique’ text that mars most Master Control dials. In terms of the value proposition, it’s a tale of two metals. The stainless steel model isn’t...

Highlights: Patek Philippe Complications at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Complications May 25, 2026

Highlights: Patek Philippe Complications at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ spring auction season goes east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. As usual, Phillips has put together a very strong lineup, and, as is often the case at watch auctions, Patek Philippe watches — both vintage and modern — have an outsized share of the catalogue. Lot 940 – Patek Philippe Bailey Banks & Biddle Triple Complication Patek Philippe produced this watch for Philadelphian jeweler Bailey Banks & Biddle around 1895, and it bears only the retailer’s name on the dial, which was not unusual. While the company came to a rather undignified end in the 21st century, it was once a manufacturing jeweller, medalist, and major Patek Philippe retailer. The dial is in rather rough condition by the standards of enamel dials, and while the dial may the most important thing to many wristwatch collectors, here the triple-complication movement is what matters. It features a minute repeater, chronograph, and perpetual calendar — which is presumably instantaneous. Note the lack of a minutes counter for the chronograph. While taken for granted on modern chronographs, most Patek Philippe triple complications did without it. In fact, the most common upgrade path for triple complications was a rattrapante, not minutes counter. The counterweighted pallet fork is also worth mention — this refinement disappeared as the Swiss lever matured and watchmakers realised a lighter pallet fork was better than a balanced one. The movement is fully functional, ...

In Partnership - Gatherings: Gerald Charles Brings Legacy To The Present In SoHo Hodinkee
Gerald Charles May 19, 2026

In Partnership - Gatherings: Gerald Charles Brings Legacy To The Present In SoHo

Enthusiasts and collectors made their way to SoHo for an exclusive and exciting event, hosted by Hodinkee, Gerald Charles, and Watches of Switzerland. Fresh from the whirlwind that is Watches & Wonders, this event marked the first opportunity for Gerald Charles to introduce their latest collection to the U.S.-based collectors. The evening celebrated a brand on the rise, featuring a comprehensive look at the brand's offerings, both past and present, including the beautiful, bespoke Maestro GC39 Li Galli in white gold, a watch conceptualized and designed by Mr. Genta himself two decades ago, hosting his favorite Jumping Hours complication. This exceptional pièce unique, which has spent the last several weeks on display at Watches & Wonders and in the Gerald Charles Atelier, was inspired by the untouched Li Galli archipelago off the Amalfi Coast and represents a profound expression of Maestro from its earliest days. Vintage Maestro GC39 Li Galli in white gold. Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar's first stop in the United States after their W&W; release. The highlight of the event was an animated discussion between Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles, and Tim Jeffreys, Hodinkee Deputy Editor. Following a warm introduction and welcome to all in the room from Tim Jeffreys, the conversation continued, covering the newly released watches, the DNA that sets the Maestro case apart, as well as the decisions, thoughts, and work that continue to make Gerald Charles watche...

Video: Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern Sits Down With Ben Clymer To Discuss The 2026 Novelties Hodinkee
Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern Sits May 19, 2026

Video: Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern Sits Down With Ben Clymer To Discuss The 2026 Novelties

Thierry Stern sat down with Ben Clymer at Watches & Wonders 2026 to walk through Patek Philippe's novelties, and his passion for the product comes through immediately. Nowhere is that more evident than with the Nautilus's 50th anniversary pieces. Compared to the 40th, this is an exercise in restraint. "My idea is to do the counter-steps," Stern said. The three limited-edition anniversary Nautiluses are stripped to hours and minutes only—no date, no seconds—perhaps the most compelling of which is a 38mm platinum case recalling the medium-size Nautilus models of the 1980s, powered by the 2.53mm Calibre 240, its micro-rotor engraved with "50 1976–2026". The wildcard—a personal highlight for Ben—was something genuinely unexpected: Patek's first-ever Nautilus desk clock, the ref. 958G, limited to just 100 pieces. Its white gold case translates the porthole-inspired Nautilus design to 50.65mm, with a hinged caseback that doubles as a stand. Technically a pocket watch, yet perhaps it's better suited to the table. Mr. Stern gives us a peek behind the curtain on how it came to be—and the story behind it is one you'll definitely want to hear. Thierry also walked Ben through the 5840P—the Cubitus's first grand complication, a skeletonized perpetual calendar he'd conceived early in the collection's development but deliberately held back, wanting the design language to land before the mechanics got complicated. The vintage Patek market is certainly booming, with the ref. ...

Hands-On With The Stylish And Practical Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5396R-016 Annual May 14, 2026

Hands-On With The Stylish And Practical Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase

In 1996, Patek Philippe launched a watch to bridge the gap between its dress watches and perpetual calendars. The brand needed more sales; the Nautilus was not a hype watch yet, so what did Patek do? It launched a classic calendar watch that looked like a perpetual calendar, but it actually was a watch with […] Visit Hands-On With The Stylish And Practical Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase to read the full article.

Conversations: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid on Capacity and Limited Editions SJX Watches
May 13, 2026

Conversations: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid on Capacity and Limited Editions

In the run-up to Watches & Wonders, our founder SJX sat down with Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid to discuss the brand’s new releases, including the Saxonia Annual Calendar and the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”. They also touch on the brand’s philosophy around limited editions, the challenges of training watchmakers on new movements, and why Lange has no plans to enter the custom-order market. Watch now on YouTube.  

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne May 8, 2026

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen

The watches of A. Lange & Söhne very rarely gets a chance to step out of the stoically traditional design language the brand has established since its relaunch in 1994, but one collection from the brand offers a unique respite from it all. Lange's Lumen series is now in its 16th year since the introduction of the Zeitwerk "Luminous" back in 2010, with its inaugural display of smoked sapphire, blacked-out details, and, of course, luminous numerals for the hour and minute discs. But while that model was the first to be executed, the following Grand Lange 1 Lumen in 2012 was the first model officially given the name "Lumen." Last month, at Watches and Wonders, Lange introduced the seventh Lumen in the lineup, with the new Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen. Following the absolutely bonkers Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in Honeygold released in 2025 for the Datograph's twenty-fifth anniversary, this new glow-in-the-dark take on the very complicated Lange 1 model marks a pattern of increasing complication (and resulting price points) for the Lumen series. A closer look reveals that there's a lot going on, and for nerds, it's certainly a feast for the eyes. In person, the cold, austere look of the chunky, 41.9mm case in platinum immediately struck me, as it was a welcome return to the combination of a smoky, black look with white metal from the past two Lumen iterations in Honeygold (that Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon and its predecessor, the Zeitwerk). For a design ...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 30, 2026

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar

A. Lange & Söhne has repeated last year’s bifurcated release format with the launch of the compact, value-oriented Saxonia Annual Calendar alongside the flagship Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”. Available in both 18k white and pink gold, the Saxonia Annual Calendar is not a limited edition, but will be made in small numbers as a consequence of the brand’s diverse portfolio and limited output of about 5,000 watches per year. Initial thoughts The Saxonia Annual Calendar was one of the more talked-about watches of the fair, not because it’s particularly novel or exciting, but instead because it gets all the small things right. It looks good on the spec sheet, with nearly perfect dimensions, the brand’s signature big date complication, and an upgraded and well-dressed automatic base calibre. But as good as the Saxonia is on paper, it’s even better up close. The brand’s typical alpha-shaped hands — common to all Lange models — are brilliantly sharp, and the dial text is finely printed. A detail I especially like on the white gold model is the nearly tone-on-tone typography for the ‘Made in Germany’ text, which is something I’d like to see more of from the brand. A new aesthetic detail is an additional facet at the outer end of each hour marker, effectively creating a tiny pyramid, akin to Cote de Paris. This design appears to be a subtle nod to the previous generation of the Saxonia, which featured baton indexes punctuated with gold stu...

In Partnership - Happenings: Join Us For A First Look At The Future Of Gerald Charles In SoHo Hodinkee
Gerald Charles Apr 24, 2026

In Partnership - Happenings: Join Us For A First Look At The Future Of Gerald Charles In SoHo

With the dust finally settling on Watches & Wonders 2026, the conversation shifts from the halls of the Palexpo to the cobblestone streets of SoHo. On May 6, Hodinkee is partnering with Gerald Charles for an exclusive community event at the Watches of Switzerland SoHo showroom. This evening serves as an intimate destination for collectors to go hands-on with the latest novelties from Geneva, offering a rare opportunity to experience the brand's evolution in a localized setting. The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar. The highlight of the evening is a thoughtful discussion featuring Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles, and Hodinkee's own Deputy Editor, Tim Jeffreys. The two will explore the brand's unique heritage as the final creative chapter of Gérald Genta's career, as well as its strategic vision for the future. It is a deep dive into the "Maestro" DNA, punctuated by cocktails and the chance to be some of the first in the U.S. to handle the latest pieces. The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar. Registration:To attend this intimate community event, please RSVP to events@hodinkee.com with your first and last name. If you would like to bring a guest, kindly include their name and email address. A confirmation email will follow to finalize your RSVP. Details:Date & Time:Wednesday, May 6, 20266:00 pm – 8:00 pm ET Location:Watches of Switzerland SoHo60 Greene St, New York, NY 10012

Our Favorite Complicated Watches From Watches & Wonders 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Apr 23, 2026

Our Favorite Complicated Watches From Watches & Wonders 2026

Our editors might still be reorienting themselves to their local timezone after being on Geneva time the past week, but the challenges of Watches & Wonders Editors' Picks must continue while the show is fresh in their minds. For this edition, we tasked our editors with selecting the watch complication that has stuck with them most from this year's lineup. From the sophisticated to the decidedly playful, down below, you'll find the watch complications that have risen above the pack, as decided by our editorial team. Explore our full editorial coverage of this year's show here.  D.C. Hannay: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar Another luxury watch pick, another slam dunk for Jaeger-LeCoultre. Whichever way the wind is blowing in the Vallée de Joux, it’s been doing wonders for JLC of late, exemplified by the new Master Control Chronometre series. The brand has finally gone and made a modern, real-deal integrated luxury model, and enthusiasts are pricking up their ears. Along with the sleek Chronometre Date and the symmetrically gifted Chronometre Date Power Reserve, they’ve come up with a truly breathtaking riff on one of the most complicated complications, the Chronometre Perpetual Calendar. Absent of the hype surrounding the Royal Oak or the Nautilus, we’re presented with a beautifully balanced dial and cohesive design, packaged in a startlingly svelte 39mm case just 9.2mm thin. Also available in a glowing pink gold with a complementary br...

Watches & Wonders: Frederique Constant Offers a Smart Update to their Classic Worldtimer Manufacture Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Offers Apr 22, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Frederique Constant Offers a Smart Update to their Classic Worldtimer Manufacture

Frederique Constant has built themselves a nice little niche delivering complicated watches at relatively affordable and impressive price points. While their perpetual calendar is probably the most impressive in terms of straight up value (somehow it still comes in under $10,000, even after years of rising prices throughout the sector) it’s the Worldtimer Manufacture that is likely their true signature. It’s a genuinely accessible complication that, at the time it was introduced, was novel in a watch well under the five figure mark.  Over the years there have been a number of variants introduced, but little has changed as far as the actual execution of the watch. That changes with the introduction of a trio of new worldtimers, all sporting the new manufacture movement, designated FC-719. The new caliber allows two nagging issues to be addressed: case size and dial clutter.  If you’re familiar with Frederique Constant’s Worldtimer Manufacture, you’ve likely already noticed that the large subdial at 6:00 displaying the date has been completely removed. A no-date worldtimer is a big change, but there’s no denying that the dial is significantly cleaner without the date. It allows the dial motif, a representation of a globe, common enough on these watches, to fully stand on its own. Dial options for this refreshed worldtimer include a limited diamond set version, a version on a strap with iridescent blue ocean waters, and a bracelet version with a more matte blue ...

Live from WWG26: new releases from A. Lange & Söhne Deployant
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 17, 2026

Live from WWG26: new releases from A. Lange & Söhne

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Lange continues their refresh path with two new releases (3 references) for WWG26 for Lange. We covered the press releases with commentary earlier. Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen is the star of their show this year. This watch is not new but, with the first released in 2016. The movement is now new with [...] The post Live from WWG26: new releases from A. Lange & Söhne appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Introducing - The New Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture, with New Movement Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture Apr 14, 2026

Introducing - The New Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture, with New Movement

Since its debut in 2012, the Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture, like its Perpetual Calendar, has become one of the brand’s defining watches. Combining a practical travel complication with in-house mechanics at accessible pricing, it quickly became a cornerstone of the catalogue. Now, more than a decade later, Frederique Constant introduces a thoroughly updated version […]

The Uber-Lange 1 Gets the “Lumen” Treatment SJX Watches
Apr 14, 2026

The Uber-Lange 1 Gets the “Lumen” Treatment

A. Lange & Söhne turns once again to its greatest hits for its flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2026. The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” bestows the translucent, luminous treatment to the top-of-the-line Lange 1 in a 50-piece limited edition in platinum. Powered by the L225.1, an upgrade on the previous generation movement, the latest Lumen edition has a grey-tinted sapphire dial that reveals glow-in-the-dark elements, including the date discs and moon phase. Over the back, the edition is also set apart by a pair of steel cocks sporting engraving of stars. Initial thoughts The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” stands out as one of the most appealing Lumen models; I’d rank it up there along with the original Zeitwerk “Phantom” in terms of appeal. The Lumen treatment works best with lot of obvious luminous components, which is the case here. Flourishes like the luminous bases for each of the Roman hour numerals are a pleasing touch. The twin engraved steel cocks are especially noteworthy; the concept is classic Lange but the engraved star motif adds variety. That said, the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” scores highly, maybe even perfectly, in terms of intrinsic and tactile appeal. The technical accomplishment is also top class: the calendar is instantaneous, movement construction is sophisticated, and decoration is outstanding. But this arguably scores less well in terms of originality or creativity. The moveme...

Hands-On With The Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Watches In Steel Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Mar 16, 2026

Hands-On With The Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Watches In Steel

The 150 Heritage pocket watch, the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, and the skeletonized Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar might have stolen most of the limelight when Audemars Piguet presented many novelties in January. Nevertheless, the pieces I was probably most curious to see and try on were a series of three tool watches. Well, these are […] Visit Hands-On With The Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Watches In Steel to read the full article.

Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces Mar 11, 2026

Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa

As Watches & Wonders approaches, I find myself thinking back to last year’s fair and the various high and lowlights from that crop of releases. I’ve commented before about a pretty big highlight of last year’s show being Parmigiani Fleurier’s output, particularly their very strong Toric perpetual calendar. This is one of those watches that I rarely go a week without thinking about, like the woman in the white dress that Bernstein remembers from the ferry in Citizen Kane.  Anyway, Parmigiani is always a fun meeting at Watches & Wonders and my expectations are high after last year. In what I imagine will be their last release before the show next month, the brand has just introduced a new pink colorway to the Tonda PF line in 36mm. I’m not sure if we can consider this a preview of things to come (honestly, we probably can’t) but it’s a strong release nonetheless further bolsters the Tonda PF platform as an important player in the integrated bracelet sports watch landscape.  The new Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa brings a lighter dial color to the steel version of the 36mm Tonda PF for the first time – previously this watch had been available in blue and two shades of gray. Pink dials of course are often associated with watches targeted toward a female clientele, but hopefully the greater watch collecting community has moved beyond these types of prohibitive norms around gender and watch preferences. This is a really attractive color that can be worn by a...

A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grand Seiko Mar 9, 2026

A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026

Each year I find it surprisingly difficult to crystalise what I want to see from Watches & Wonders – perhaps I find it hard to hope for things I know will never come. Sometimes dreams aren’t logistically possible. For example, a compact Spring Drive chronograph probably isn’t reasonable given Grand Seiko already has its hands full scaling production of another new Spring Drive movement. At other times, imagination is bound by brand strategy: Cartier could easily steal the show with a quartz Crash Must priced along the same lines as a Tank Must – but never will. But I believe that the following watches, which I’d like to see from Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko and Credor, and Tudor are plausible enough to hope for. The following images were created without the use of generative AI. Patek Philippe In 2023, Patek Philippe launched the ref. 5316/50P, a minute repeating tourbillon with retrograde perpetual calendar and smoked sapphire dial. It remains among the brand’s best complicated offerings, other than the ref. 6301p, at least in my view. Last year Patek Philippe followed up with the ref. 6159G, which featured a smoked sapphire dial and the same perpetual calendar on a more pedestrian base movement. But if there is one reference more deserving of the smoked sapphire treatment than any other, it is the ref. 5236p in-line perpetual calendar, as imagined below in platinum. In 2021, Patek Philippe revived the historic in-line perpetual calendar, which is strongly asso...

SJX Podcast: Audemars Piguet Thinks Beyond the Royal Oak SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Thinks Beyond Feb 16, 2026

SJX Podcast: Audemars Piguet Thinks Beyond the Royal Oak

Recorded shortly after Brandon’s return from Audemars Piguet’s launch event in Switzerland, Episode 28 of the SJX Podcast provides analysis of all the brand’s new releases, including the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, the 150 Heritage pocket watch, the upgraded Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm and its new in-house movement, and the latest open-worked perpetual calendar, which works equally well in Code 11.59 and Royal Oak guise. The conversation also touches on the internal reorganisation at AP that saw the creation of a multi-disciplinary fabrication laboratory dubbed the ‘Fab Lab.’ Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38 Feb 13, 2026

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm

One of the longest tenured models in the Audemars Piguet (AP) catalogue, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm has been upgraded with a new manufacture calibre and sapphire case back for the first time, while only slightly tweaking the iconic design and price tag. Inside the new ref. 26450 is the cal. 6401 that incorporates with welcome quality-of-life improvements such as a longer power reserve, higher beat rate, and instantaneous date. The new movement accomplishes all of this without significant tradeoffs in size, but it arguably falls somewhat short in aesthetics. Minor shortcomings aside, the modestly sized Royal Oak Chronograph is a strong offering that enters the field at the top of its class. Initial thoughts In the same fashion as last year’s updated Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, the new 38 mm Royal Oak Chronograph takes an evolutionary, rather than revolutionary, step forward, being essentially the same watch, only better. AP clearly knows better than to mess with a winning formula, but the brand also faced challenges, both in manufacturing and customer experience, that came with a nearly four-decade-old movement platform, sourced from Swatch Group no less. The changes are slight, even insignificant at first glance, but are the sort things that come to be appreciated with long-term ownership, especially within a smaller collection where increases in power reserve and performance are most noticeable. It even looks slightly better – the dial is less cram...

Audemars Piguet’s Latest Gen Perpetual Open-Worked or All-Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Latest Gen Perpetual Feb 4, 2026

Audemars Piguet’s Latest Gen Perpetual Open-Worked or All-Ceramic

Audemars Piguet (AP) debuts a trio of new perpetuals calendars, led by the first open-worked version of brand’s cutting edge perpetual calendar launched last year with the skeleton cal. 7139 inside the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak. And rounding out the trio is the first all-ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar powered by the cal. 7138. Initial Thoughts The open-worked version of AP’s latest-generation perpetual calendar movement arguably does most justice to a clever movement that is one of the most notable such movements on the market. While there was little visual difference between solid-dial versions of AP’s new perpetual calendars and the preceding versions, the open-worked examples are less similar, at least up close, as the perpetual calendar works are so clearly different. The new open-work dial givers owners a look at what is going on under the hood as they adjust the calendar, which I see as a significant value add given the unusual and innovative mechanics. While AP could have been more daring, the last year’s crop of Royal Oak Perpetuals were good looking watches. The new pair, in both Code 11.59 and Royal Oak formats, look nearly identical from an arms length to their predecessors. The open-worked models are mostly monochrome, the Code 11:59 is rhodium-plated white gold with a black ceramic mid-case while the Royal Oak is titanium with polished Palladium 500 bulk-metallic glass (BMG) accents and rose gold dial furniture. Neither break new ground for the b...

Introducing - A Duo of Audemars Piguet´s Openworked Perpetual Calendars, Powered by the Latest Calibre 7139 Monochrome
Audemars Piguet ´s Openworked Perpetual Calendars Feb 3, 2026

Introducing - A Duo of Audemars Piguet´s Openworked Perpetual Calendars, Powered by the Latest Calibre 7139

A perpetual calendar is a complication very much dear to Audemars Piguet. Since the mid-20th century, the manufacture in Le Brassus has offered many variations on how this “celestial” mechanism could be presented, displayed and used. From the world’s first leap-year perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1955, to the ultra-thin automatic QPs of the late 1970s, […]

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Red Dial SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Feb 3, 2026

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Red Dial

Vacheron Constantin’s latest Overseas Tourbillon pairs a titanium case with a deep red dial, recalling last year’s perpetual calendar, showcasing the cal. 2160 with peripheral rotor, refined finishing, and a slow beating one minute tourbillon. It represents the finest of industrial fine watchmaking with high-end construction inside and out. Initial Thoughts Last August Vacheron Constantin launched a pair of new Overseas Perpetual Calendars, one in burgundy and the other pink-on-pink. I felt the “deep red” dial – as Vacheron Constantin calls it – works particularly well against the white gold case, and the light blue accents were a nice touch. Nothing has changed on that front, the colour pallette looks just as good now as it did then, but is now lighter, thanks to the titanium case, and equipped more impressive movement. While the Overseas Perpetual’s movement somewhat lags behind its competition, the Overseas Tourbillon has a more competitive calibre, which holds its own against the Royal Oak Tourbillons, and wins by default against the non-existent Nautilus Tourbillon. That said, it is hardly a value within its segment, with estimated pricing comparable to Audemars Piguet’s blue-chip Royal Oak Tourbillons, though that is more than fair when you put aside brand caché and focus purely on the product. Case and Bracelet The Overseas case is well made and well finished by any standard, though not quite as complex as its counterparts from Audemars Piguet and P...

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Recent Audemars Piguet Releases Fratello
Audemars Piguet Releases Jan 30, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Recent Audemars Piguet Releases

At the beginning of every year, Audemars Piguet graces us with a series of novelties. Last year was a big one for Audemars Piguet, with the unveiling of some brilliant new releases to mark its 150th anniversary. Among them were the new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and the Royal Oak Chronograph. These two watches introduced […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Recent Audemars Piguet Releases to read the full article.

Hands On: Breguet Equation of Time Pocket Watch No. 2492 SJX Watches
Breguet Equation Jan 12, 2026

Hands On: Breguet Equation of Time Pocket Watch No. 2492

A rare Breguet pocket watch with retrograde perpetual calendar and equation of time illustrates the evolution of the house from its founder’s era to the early 20th century, blending historical motifs with modern concessions. Made in 1932, Breguet No. 2492 is one of just four known examples from a series of equation of time movements produced over nearly five decades by the legendary workshops of Victorin Piguet. In short, it’s a watch with one foot in the 19th century and one in the early 20th. The transitional nature of the watch evidently resonated with collectors, as the watch recently sold for CHF241,300 at Phillips’ Geneva auction in November, some 20% above its high estimate. Context It might be surprising, but Abraham-Louis Breguet’s unexpected death in 1823 had no immediate effect on the firm’s output. The firm produced well over a hundred watches each year, which required a staff of skilled workers, as well as A.-L. Breguet’s family, who understood what a Breguet watch was, and could build one without being managed by the man himself. However, with the old guard’s retirement, and general decline of Parisian watchmaking, things slowly changed. After the Breguet family sold the firm in the late 19th century, turning instead to the more lucrative business of aviation, the firm’s output strayed from A.-L. Breguet’s vision, abandoning Breguet’s signature design language for a medley of styles catering to specific markets. During this time, the brand...

Complicated Collectors: Seth Atwood SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 871 made Jan 5, 2026

Complicated Collectors: Seth Atwood

In the late 1970s, anyone serious about horology would eventually find themselves in Rockford, Illinois, about 90 miles west of Chicago. Visitors stayed in a hotel near a motorway that happened to be home to many of the world’s greatest clocks and watches. The collection of Seth Atwood sat below the everyday hum: Roman sundials beside Islamic astrolabes; marine chronometers alongside French regulators; English pocket watches paired with American factory movements; and, at the far end, atomic clocks. Rockford was a town that built machine tools and industrial equipment, so the hotel naturally served business travellers and convention attendees. But among them were watchmakers who flew in from Europe and Asia to see mechanisms they couldn’t examine anywhere else. For nearly three decades, one man’s vision put Rockford on the horological map. The 1972 secular true perpetual calendar Patek Philippe ref. 871, made for Seth G. Atwood. Image – Christies/collage Rockford native Seth Glanville Atwood was born in 1917, into a world of industrial logic. His father had started the Atwood Vacuum Machine Company a year earlier, its first product a simple spring-loaded bumper that kept car doors from rattling. Detroit needed millions of them, and the company grew from there, supplying window regulators, door hardware, and other practical parts in volume. Seth grew up around engineers and production managers who solved problems with their hands. After Stanford, Harvard Business Sc...