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Eric Giroud

Architect-trained Geneva designer behind MB&F\'s entire HM and LM series, plus Bovet, Manufacture Royale, Greubel Forsey commissions.

Exclusive · Guide
MB&F HM12 The Guardian: The Robot Watch That Actually Transforms

MB&F's twelfth Horological Machine is a flying-tourbillon wristwatch that docks inside a 15 kg, nearly 400 mm tall transforming robot companion, and only 36 will ever exist

First Look – The New Formex Essence Space Ghost 41mm Automatic COSC Monochrome
Formex Essence Space Ghost 41mm Aug 14, 2025

First Look – The New Formex Essence Space Ghost 41mm Automatic COSC

Formex’s Essence line, introduced in 2018, quickly earned respect as the brand’s versatile, go-anywhere sports watch, combining sharp case architecture, great engineering, and chronometer-certified accuracy. In 2020, the collection took on a cosmic turn with the debut of the Space Rock editions, featuring dials cut from the ancient Muonionalusta meteorite. Over time, these rare cosmic […]

Introducing – The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 42mm Limited Edition for France Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 42mm Limited Jul 10, 2025

Introducing – The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 42mm Limited Edition for France

Jack Heuer’s Carrera chronograph and its affiliation with the racing track is borderline legendary, but there is an earlier, lesser-known chapter of the late 1940s involving the development of a purpose-built watch for Abercrombie & Fitch, the upscale American sporting goods company. Still a student, Jack Heuer enlisted his physics teacher to collaborate in the […]

Introducing – A new Frost-Inspired Edition of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm Jun 30, 2025

Introducing – A new Frost-Inspired Edition of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm

Without a doubt one of the best value propositions on the market, the Khaki Field Mechanical collection has grown drastically in recent years. Inspired by vintage field watches made by the company – the Hamilton “Hacked” watch – it combines cool military looks with a fair price and undeniable flair. In addition to the base […]

Introducing – The Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm, Now in Titanium Monochrome
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm May 9, 2025

Introducing – The Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm, Now in Titanium

Alpina flexed its powerful sports watch muscles early in the game with its 1938 Alpina 4, a robust model with shock and water-resistance features, anti-magnetic properties and a sturdy steel case. The heavy-duty Alpiner Extreme, released in 2005 and refreshed in 2022, is a worthy descendant of the Alpina 4. Combining its sporty, shaped case […]

Hands-On: the Citizen Promaster Diver (37mm) Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Diver 37mm Amidst Feb 18, 2025

Hands-On: the Citizen Promaster Diver (37mm)

Amidst the three and four-figure divers that dominate the market, Citizen has a reputation for being the everyman’s watch. Though the brand offers a variety of styles and price points, their dive watches tend to be one of the most popular options amongst their fan base.  Launched in 1989, the Promaster series was developed with the goal of providing professional-grade, reliable watches for divers and outdoor enthusiasts. The first Promaster dive watch was equipped with advanced features like a high-water resistance rating, luminous hands for visibility underwater, and a rotating bezel to track elapsed time.These Promasters featured an arrow logo, symbolizing the watch’s ability to “go higher and deeper” than Citizen’s previous collections. This arrow is still included on the crown of modern Promaster references, tying these new releases into a longer history of one of the brand’s favored series. Citizen made waves in the summer of 2023 when they released a smaller version of their Eco-Drive divers. Those releases brought the Eco-Drive Promaster, traditionally sized 44mm, into the realm of the smaller-wristed by shaving off a whopping seven millimeters. These options came in three dial colors: gray, blue, and black, and all had a color-matched bezel. Three more colorways were debuted this past December, which included purple, blue, and red dial options. Along with the new colors, the brand made some aesthetic changes to these 37mm divers. Though the three color...

First Look – The New, More Compact Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Jan 21, 2025

First Look – The New, More Compact Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm

Launched in 2016, the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 combines the best of Hublot: modern materials, an edgy skeleton movement with a 10-day power reserve – one of the most important calibres from the brand with the Unico Chronograph – and versatility with the practical one-click interchangeable strap system. With the current trend for smaller watches, […]

Introducing – The New Bremont Supermarine 300m GMT Collection Monochrome
Bremont Supermarine 300m GMT Collection Nov 16, 2024

Introducing – The New Bremont Supermarine 300m GMT Collection

Combining a dive watch with a traveller’s function has become a classic over the years, offering immense versatility.  At Bremont, this concept was personified for many years by the Supermarine S302 GMT Diver, but since the brand is currently restructuring its strategy and collection, many expected to see a new model occupying this specific niche. […]

First Look – The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba 40mm, now with a Cool Red Bezel Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba 40mm Oct 15, 2024

First Look – The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba 40mm, now with a Cool Red Bezel

While widely known for its countless apparitions on the silver screen and its military-inspired watches, Hamilton, once an American brand now under the umbrella of the Swatch Group, also carries a rather serious range of aquatic-oriented watches. Sitting alongside the high-performance Frogman and BeLOWZERO collections is the Khaki Navy Scuba, a classic dive watch with […]

First Look – The New, More Compact Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm Collection Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm Collection Mar 21, 2024

First Look – The New, More Compact Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm Collection

While we’re not here to re-do the story of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, we must remember that we’re talking about one of the most important watches ever. Created back in the mid-1950s and one of the first purpose-built modern dive watches, it has, together with a couple of other timepieces, established the fundamental technical and […]

Hands On: The Longines Conquest Chronograph 42 mm SJX Watches
Longines Conquest Chronograph 42 mm Mar 15, 2024

Hands On: The Longines Conquest Chronograph 42 mm

Longines facelifted the Conquest Chronograph last year, giving it more vintage flavour while retaining the sporty style of its predecessor and also the slightly-too-big case. The new look is reminiscent of a more famous sports chronograph, but compared to its predecessor, the new Conquest is more coherent. Initial thoughts At a distance, the Conquest Chronograph bears a striking resemblance to the modern Rolex Daytona, which is unsurprising given the commercial success of the Cosmograph (hence Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport as well). But in the hand it is clearly a larger, chunkier watch than its famous rival, and upon closer inspection, the dial design is also distinct with several interesting details. The previous Conquest tried to be different and ended up being too much. That design was characterised by an oversized “12” that was recognisable but not sophisticated. Although the resemblance to the modern Daytona is apparent at a distance, the dial gets more interesting up close (and also gives off some Paul Newman vibes). The new Conquest has a cleaner dial design with a slightly retro style thanks to a sector-like chapter ring. It does without a date, something purists will approve of. Although all four dial colours share the same design, two stand out. The champagne dial is a unique colour for a sports chronograph in this price segment, while the silver dial has just the right amount of red accents, with the red-outlined luminous squares being particularly interest...

First Look – The New Bulgari Bulgari 38mm Automatic Watches in Gold Monochrome
Bulgari Bulgari 38mm Automatic Watches Jan 30, 2024

First Look – The New Bulgari Bulgari 38mm Automatic Watches in Gold

Nearly half a century ago, in 1975, Bulgari embarked on a horological voyage that would forever alter the watch design landscape. With only a few watch creations bearing its name, Bulgari showed opulence by gifting 100 gold digital display watches to its most esteemed clients. This bold yet elegantly simple timepiece christened Bulgari Roma, encapsulated […]

How Panerai Cemented My Love Of Watches WatchAdvice
Panerai Cemented My Love Feb 18, 2023

How Panerai Cemented My Love Of Watches

For any watch lover, there is always that “one watch” that either started their journey, or cemented their love of them. As a lifelong watch lover, Panerai was that brand, and the PAM 312 was that watch! Panerai is one of those polarizing brands. They have a great history, but over the past 10 years of so, they’ve lost their lustre and have been the centre of some controversy in the watch world. However, say what you want, the one thing that people can’t deny is how iconic the Luminor Marina and Submersible are. You see those curved edges on the case and THAT crown protector and you know it’s a PAM – you can spot them a mile off! Just a casual coffee day Others have tried to emulate it, but none have really succeeded in achieving the look and feel that a Panerai has on the wrist. Couple this with its rise in the late 90’s and early 2000’s due to its popularity among action heroes such as Sly Stallone, Jason Statham, Arnie and the like, and it’s easy to see why they became so popular. For me, it was less the action star association, and more that many of the successful people I was working with back in the early to mid 2000’s owned one. Seeing Panerai’s on successful people’s wrist, in hindsight, probably swayed my subconscious mind to want one – being a junior and aspiring professional myself, why not aspire to that? But more than this, I thought they looked great, were big (as was the trend then) and were very unique. Big bold numbers and indices...

Auction Watch: “New Old Stock” Rolex Milgauss Ref. 1019 and F.P. Journe Octa Chrono 38 mm SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Octa Chrono 38 mm Feb 1, 2022

Auction Watch: “New Old Stock” Rolex Milgauss Ref. 1019 and F.P. Journe Octa Chrono 38 mm

A newcomer to the world of watch auctions, Loupe This was founded by a pair of industry veterans and operates in a distinctly 21st century manner: sales are conducted entirely online, with about ten watches on the block at any one time. The offerings on Loupe This are diverse. In December 2021 it sold an example of our Habring2 Erwin “Star” for US$15,400 including fees, while the latest to go under the hammer are two interesting, long-discontinued watches from notable watchmakers based in Geneva – but otherwise radically different. One is the a Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 – in pristine, “new old stock” condition – and the other, an F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe 38 mm. Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 Produced from 1960 to 1988, the ref. 1019 was the longest-running reference of the Milgauss, the brand’s famous magnetism-resistant watch conceived for engineers and nuclear scientists. Despite the lengthy production run, the ref. 1019 is relatively rare because the model wasn’t produced in sizeable numbers for the simple reason that it didn’t sell well. In fact, Rolex discontinued the Milgauss altogether in 1988, before reviving it some two decades later. While the rarity certainly boosts its appeal, the ref. 1019 is attractive and unusual for being one of the most fuss-free Rolex “Professional” sports watch. The ref. 1019 is also the simplest version of the Milgauss, doing without the rotating bezel or “lightning” seconds hand found on earlier models. It ...

Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42 mm SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42 mm Aug 11, 2020

Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42 mm

One of the longest-lived models in the Ulysse Nardin line up, the Marine is modelled on vintage marine chronometers, the precision clocks in gimballed boxes found on ships of old. Originally introduced in 1996 as the Marine Chronometer 1846, the watch was one of the brand’s signature models during the tenure of former owner Rolf Schnyder, a larger than life entrepreneur who made Ulysse Nardin (UN) a presence in contemporary watchmaking. Several generations later, the design is now found on an entry-level model that is surprisingly accomplished despite being quite affordable, the Marine Torpilleur 42 mm. (NB: The version pictured here is in rose gold and naturally costs more; the steel model is priced under US$7,000.) Initial thoughts The Marine Torpilleur is an interesting proposition because it’s a fairly thin sports, or at least sporty, watch that has an obviously classical design that still manages to be functional. It manages that because the design is based the marine chronometer, a classical yet functional instrument. And the Marine Torpilleur is powered by the excellent, in-house UN-118 movement, while being priced at a little under US$7,000 in steel. That sets it apart from most watches in the same price segment, because the Marine Torpilleur has a competent dial and case, but an excellent movement. So from a technical perspective, it is a strong value-buy. The watch is largish but slim, with a dial that’s essentially a replica of a marine chronometer di...

Hands-On: Panerai Radiomir 8 Days 45mm PAM 992 SJX Watches
Panerai Radiomir 8 Days 45mm Dec 17, 2019

Hands-On: Panerai Radiomir 8 Days 45mm PAM 992

Panerai has gently eased itself towards a focus on more civilian sports watches, as opposed to retro-navy diver instrument remakes, since chief executive Jean-Marc Pontroué took the helm in 2018. So its most recent releases this year include the extra-thin Luminor Due in titanium, along with commemorative editions for the America’s Cup yacht race. But Panerai is still keeping one eye on its Marina Militare heritage, exemplified by the pair of Radiomir watches unveiled last month, the most interesting of which is the Radiomir 8 Days 45mm (PAM00992). It has a vintage-esque style – not really a one for one remake – combined with an in-house, eight-day movement and a relatively accessible price of US$8,500. Most unusually, the steel case has a faux aged finish that Panerai is trying for the first time. Marina Militare The new Radiomir is not a remake of a vintage Panerai, but rather it’s a mix-and-match of various elements, including the engraved logo and “8 Giorni” emblem at three. Traditionalists might find it impure, but that was essentially the founding formula for the modern Panerai company. The result is a good-looking watch that approximates the look of a vintage Panerai while offering modern conveniences like a long power reserve. Even though it’s a large watch – the case is 45mm – it’s smallish by Panerai standards, since the military-style Panerai watches are usually 47mm. But it is big enough to look like a Panerai, and it wears well for a 45mm...

Praesidus Commemorates The 82nd Anniversary Of D-Day With The A-11 LMUV — Featuring Dials Made From Willys MB Jeeps Fratello
Jun 1, 2026

Praesidus Commemorates The 82nd Anniversary Of D-Day With The A-11 LMUV — Featuring Dials Made From Willys MB Jeeps

Every year, Praesidus commemorates D-Day with a string of special releases. This year, on June 6th, it will be 82 years since D-Day took place on the beaches of Normandy. On that day in 1944, a total of 156,000 Allied troops successfully stormed the French beaches during Operation Overlord. For this year’s releases, Preasidus releases […] Visit Praesidus Commemorates The 82nd Anniversary Of D-Day With The A-11 LMUV — Featuring Dials Made From Willys MB Jeeps to read the full article.

Introducing – Bremont Goes Playful with the Altitude MB Meteor “Felix the Cat” Edition Monochrome
Bremont Goes Playful Mar 6, 2026

Introducing – Bremont Goes Playful with the Altitude MB Meteor “Felix the Cat” Edition

Bremont‘s aviation-focused Altitude collection just added a new reference with a playful yet historically grounded collaboration: the Altitude MB Meteor Felix the Cat, created in partnership with Universal Products & Experiences. Why? It turns out that the cartoon character has a place in aviation culture, serving as a long-standing symbol of courage, humour, and good […]

Bremont Revives the Orange Barrel for the MB Meteor SJX Watches
Bremont Revives Jul 29, 2025

Bremont Revives the Orange Barrel for the MB Meteor

One of Bremont’s best known pilot’s watches is undoubtedly the “MB”, now in its latest iteration as the Altitude MB Meteor. Now led by Davide Cerrato and controlled by hedge fund manager Bill Ackman, Bremont has focused on aviator’s watch since its founding. The MB was one of its earliest models – “MB” is short for Martin-Baker, the British company that produces ejection seats, primarily for jet fighter aircraft, including the Eurofighter Typhoon and Lockheed Martin F-35. The original MBI was produced exclusively for pilots who successfully ejected with a Martin-Baker ejection seat, and that spawned a line of commercially available MB models. The MB Meteor continues the collection with a redesigned case in titanium, now with a striking orange “barrel”, a knurled case middle that gets its colour from a ceramic coating. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the MB series because of the ejection seat connection. Admittedly, the link is a good dose of marketing, but it’s good storytelling that makes for a cool watch. The fact that the MB models in general are robust, no-frills, and relatively affordable also add to their appeal. The MB Meteor is the latest generation in the series. The model was already launched some months ago, but with a case “barrel” in plain colours. The new orange barrel is a standout feature, because it is the closest thing to the red barrel of the model that is available only to pilots who have ejected from a Martin-Baker seat. ...

Nine Years of Tudor Collecting Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor Collecting I found my Sep 1, 2024

Nine Years of Tudor Collecting

I found my way into watch collecting in 2014, with the ubiquitous SKX009J. I agonized over spending a “huge” £135 on that watch for days, after scouring the reviews and forums, before pulling the trigger from a certain Asian website. This was where it all began, and for a time, I was satisfied with this fan-favourite diver. 2014, coincidentally, was the year that Tudor came back to the UK, after its global hiatus and slow return to other markets from 2010. I remember seeing the 79220R Burgundy Black Bay for the first time and thinking - “Eww”. It was a gaudy colour, and the hour hand was a stupid shape! Some forgotten cousin of Rolex? ETA-2824 calibre? £2330? No thank you, sir, I have ALL THE SEIKOS to buy, which I promptly set about doing.

SPOTTED! BY AG: Dispatch 3, December 2016 – Starting with a 1982 Rolex Sub Time+Tide
Rolex Sub Ah December my Dec 17, 2016

SPOTTED! BY AG: Dispatch 3, December 2016 – Starting with a 1982 Rolex Sub

Ah, December, my favourite month of the year. It’s got the lot: my birthday, Christmas and of course it’s when the Michael Bublé calendar becomes available for the year ahead. It’s a time of year that tends to be action packed, as we all fall into mayhem trying to make sense of the past 12 … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED! BY AG: Dispatch 3, December 2016 – Starting with a 1982 Rolex Sub appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Look – The Bremont Altitude Air Force Blue Capsule Collection, Including a New MB Meteor Time Zones Monochrome
Bremont Altitude Air Force Blue May 19, 2026

First Look – The Bremont Altitude Air Force Blue Capsule Collection, Including a New MB Meteor Time Zones

The Terra Nova and Supermarine collections are an important part of Bremont‘s catalogue, and the brand even looks up to the stars with the recently released Supernova Chronograph. Still, aviation remains central to the British watchmaker’s identity, and the new Air Force Blue capsule collection reinforces this focus with a unified lineup, introducing a distinctive […]

Introducing – The Bremont Altitude Collection, the Redesigned MB Watch and the Return of the Trip-Tick Case Monochrome
Bremont Altitude Collection Apr 1, 2025

Introducing – The Bremont Altitude Collection, the Redesigned MB Watch and the Return of the Trip-Tick Case

There is good news for sceptics who feared Bremont had forsaken its roots. Although the company is no longer in the hands of its founders, Giles and Nick English, their passion for British aviation history and pilot’s watches endures in the new Altitude collection. Marking a new era, the brand releases three redesigned pilot watches […]