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Trilobe Takes Up the Mantle of French Watchmaking with the Trente-Deux SJX Watches
Trilobe Sep 17, 2025

Trilobe Takes Up the Mantle of French Watchmaking with the Trente-Deux

Best known for its signature time display comprised of three off-center discs, Trilobe has introduced its first sport watch, the Trente-Deux. It’s yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet, but the Trente-Deux is more notable for being the debut platform for the new X-Nihilo caliber, which for movement geeks will overshadow the launch of the new collection itself. The X-Nihilo is a relatively simple automatic caliber, and many of its components are produced in Trilobe’s own newly established CNC workshop near the French capital. It remains to be seen whether this domestic manufacturing initiative will prove viable long-term; the recent past is full of false starts aimed at rebuilding the French watchmaking industry. Initial thoughts I admit a certain fascination for watches without hands, that indicate the time with jumping windows, wandering displays, and revolving discs. The Trente-Deux, like the brand’s other watches, is an example of the latter. The hour is read at the top of the dial, using the logo as a pointer. The minutes slip by through a window in the dial, and the seconds disc rotates around a central hub embellished with stamped Clous de Paris. The asymmetrical layout is visually compelling and results in a pleasing amount of negative space that somehow doesn’t feel empty. This might be due to the sunray pattern, which emanates outward from the center of the seconds disc. In terms of colour, grey and navy blue are safe, pragmatic choices tha...

ETA 2824: The History and Legacy of a Legendary Workhorse Caliber Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 16, 2025

ETA 2824: The History and Legacy of a Legendary Workhorse Caliber

The ETA 2824 caliber has been a presence in the world of mechanical wristwatches for more than 50 years, helping the Swiss watchmaking industry forge a path through the Quartz Crisis and serving as the engine for hundreds of three-handed timepieces from an array of brands, large and small. While it is a rarity here in the 21st Century, its legacy can still be seen across the horological world - from the proliferation of similar movements by makers like Sellita to the increasing ubiquity of the ETA 2824’s souped-up successor, the Powermatic 80. Read on to learn everything you need to know about the ETA 2824. A (Very Brief) History of ETA Nearly everyone that follows the wristwatch industry has heard of ETA, and most of those have probably worn a watch with an ETA movement, but few are likely aware of the Swiss movement maker’s long and convoluted history. We generally trace its origins back to the formation of the historical watchmaking firm Eterna, in 1856 in the Swiss town of Grenchen. But in reality its roots reach even deeper. Eterna is perhaps most famous today as the maker of the Kon-Tiki dive watch, and it is currently owned by the Hong Kong-based Citychamp Watch and Jewellery Group. Originally however, the firm was a manufacturer of ébauches - unassembled movements for sale to outside watchmakers - and was named “Dr. Girard & Schild” for its founders, Dr. Joseph Girard and Urs Schild. Renamed Schild Frères by the next generation of owners, the compan...

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin’s La Quête Du Temps is an Astronomical Clock in Every Sense SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s La Quête Du Sep 16, 2025

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin’s La Quête Du Temps is an Astronomical Clock in Every Sense

Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary tour de force continues with the La Quête Du Temps ‘Mecanique D’art’, a metre-tall astronomical clock, automata, and decorative object. While the brand teased us with the most complicated wristwatch ever made earlier this year, it’s been planning something much, much grander – a true monument to time. Initial thoughts I see La Quête Du Temps as part of a near millennia old tradition of astronomical clocks and mechanical follies. During the very late 12th century, an Artuqid king commissioned an exceptional astronomical water clock from famed Islamic inventor Ismail al-Jazari. Al-Jazari’s “castle clock” kept time, but only as an ancillary function. The clock tracked the passage of the sun, the passage and phase of the moon and the zodiacs, and on the sixth, ninth and twelfth hours a cast of five life-sized automata sprung to life, playing drums and trumpets to dazzle the royal court. Other kings commissioned similar astronomical clocks from inventor in their courts, as symbols of their power and sophistication. If not kings, it was congregations and city councils raising these models of the heavens on Earth as symbols of prosperity and prestige. And today, Vacheron Constantin, the oldest watch manufacturer, builds one for itself. The Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch yet made, was not the brand’s 270th anniversary flagship – this is. Image – Vacheron Constantin/Stephane Sby Balmy This year has been mor...

From whiskies to Negronis: Seiko continues its run of cocktail-inspired Australasian limited editions with the Presage SRPL96J ‘The Conte’ Time+Tide
Seiko continues Sep 16, 2025

From whiskies to Negronis: Seiko continues its run of cocktail-inspired Australasian limited editions with the Presage SRPL96J ‘The Conte’

Seiko follows 2023's SRPK50J 'Irori Moments' and 2024's SRPL20J 'Ichigo Ichie' with a Negroni rather than whisky -inspired Cocktail Time.The post From whiskies to Negronis: Seiko continues its run of cocktail-inspired Australasian limited editions with the Presage SRPL96J ‘The Conte’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Prospex SPB143 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Sep 15, 2025

Seiko Prospex SPB143 Review

The Seiko Prospex SPB143 debuted back in 2020, alongside three other dive watches that represented a modern reimagining of the classic 62MAS from 1965. These were warmly received, in part due to their smaller case sizes and relatively accessible price points at a time when those two issues were beginning to become regular sticking points for enthusiasts. The SPB143 that I am reviewing here has gone on to become a beloved staple in Seiko’s higher-end Seiko Luxe family, due to just how much it offers for the $1,200 price tag. This mechanical dive watch has real vintage roots and while it isn’t perfect, represents how Seiko really has the ability to dominate this category. It’s not easy to stand out as a Seiko diver, considering how many iconic collections we have from the brand that brought us the Turtle, Marinemaster, Tuna, SKX, and others. But, by sticking to the best aspects of the 62MAS while incorporating state-of-the-art machining and manufacturing capabilities, Seiko hit it out of the park with the SPB143. Before I get into the nitty gritty of the watch, let’s take a brief look at the history it’s drawing from. The Seiko 62MAS Connection Though the story of the 62MAS has been told countless times at this point, it remains foundational to understanding the SPB143. Back in 1965, Seiko released its -and indeed Japan’s - first dive watch, which was the 62MAS. This watch was water-resistant to 150 meters and was put through its paces when crew members of th...

Introducing – The new Credor Goldfeather GBBY969 and GBBY971 with Enamel Dials Monochrome
Grand Seiko Sep 15, 2025

Introducing – The new Credor Goldfeather GBBY969 and GBBY971 with Enamel Dials

While Grand Seiko is now well-established all around the world as the higher-end brand of the Seiko Watch Corporation, Credor remains far more niche and has just begun its global expansion, primarily with the Locomotive collection, based on a vintage watch once designed by Gérald Genta. Credor, another high-end brandwithin the group, employs a more classic approach with watches […]

Seiko Looks to Sci-Fi for the Astron GPS SJX Watches
Citizen has inched ahead Sep 15, 2025

Seiko Looks to Sci-Fi for the Astron GPS

Advanced digital watches haven’t deterred leading Japanese brands from continuing to earnestly develop high-accuracy quartz watches in analog formats. Chief among them is Seiko, which has just unveiled two new limited editions of its satellite-linked Astron GPS Solar. While the SSJ037 appears to be a simple time-only watch and the SSH185 looks like a straightforward dual-time chronograph, each watch is solar-powered and includes an electronic perpetual calendar. Limited to 1,500 pieces for the SSJ037 and 1,200 pieces for the SSH185, the new collection is sci-fi inspired, featuring colours and textures common to fictional depictions of space stations. Initial thoughts There are a couple different approaches to making high-accuracy quartz watches. The first is pretty obvious, and involves developing ever-more precise quartz oscillators. Seiko has long been a champion of this school of thought, although Citizen has inched ahead in recent years. The other approach is to make a reasonably precise quartz movement that automatically syncs with an external signal, which might be a radio signal broadcast from any of the atomic reference clocks positioned around the world, a bluetooth signal from the user’s phone, or, in the case of the Astron, a satellite signal. Since the brand debuted this technology in 2012, Seiko has refined things making the watches sleeker and the interface more intuitive. As a result, the time-only SSJ037 is an ordinary 42 mm in diameter and 12 mm thick;...

Introducing – Briston Unveils the new Clubmaster Legend Classic Collection Monochrome
Sep 15, 2025

Introducing – Briston Unveils the new Clubmaster Legend Classic Collection

Briston, the young, independent French brand with a portfolio of accessible, retro-inspired watches with fun, faux tortoiseshell cases, releases new models in its Clubmaster Legend collection. Presented in the classic cushion-shaped cases that define the collection, the new time-only references feature closed dials or open-heart designs, delivering an appealing blend of vintage design cues and […]

Fortis Introduces The Stealthy Stratoliner S-41 Gravity Black And The Wild Reentry Edition Fratello
Fortis Introduces Sep 15, 2025

Fortis Introduces The Stealthy Stratoliner S-41 Gravity Black And The Wild Reentry Edition

Fortis is well known in the world of horology for creating amazing tool watches. It is also one of the few brands with a track record of successfully sending watches into space. The Fortis Stratoliner S-41 collection is a modern-day space traveler’s watch that has achieved just that. Now, the Swiss brand is extending the […] Visit Fortis Introduces The Stealthy Stratoliner S-41 Gravity Black And The Wild Reentry Edition to read the full article.

Introducing: The Trilobe Trente-Deux Collection Fratello
Trilobe Sep 14, 2025

Introducing: The Trilobe Trente-Deux Collection

Trilobe is a brand we’ve featured on Fratello before, and I was fortunate to go hands-on with the collection last April at Watches and Wonders. The Parisian brand specializes in watches with a distinctive time-telling display. A series of rotating discs shows hours, minutes, and seconds. It’s a wonderfully straightforward concept that now achieves a […] Visit Introducing: The Trilobe Trente-Deux Collection to read the full article.

I Found My Ultimate Dive Watch: The Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 Fratello
Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 Rolex has Sep 14, 2025

I Found My Ultimate Dive Watch: The Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600

Rolex has always produced watches that I have gravitated towards. For a long time, though, I grappled with some of the modern baggage that the brand has taken on. Modern Rolex sports watches have a certain bling factor that turns me off. The problem is that vintage Rolex watches are either unobtainable or, if I […] Visit I Found My Ultimate Dive Watch: The Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 to read the full article.

News From Schwarz Etienne: A Personal View On The 1902 Collection Fratello
Schwarz Etienne Sep 13, 2025

News From Schwarz Etienne: A Personal View On The 1902 Collection

Since August last year, Schwarz Etienne has had a new CEO. His name is Florian Brossard. I don’t know if this name means anything to you, but it means a lot to me. I have been following his way through the watch industry for a while. The first time I met Florian Brossard was at […] Visit News From Schwarz Etienne: A Personal View On The 1902 Collection to read the full article.

Introducing: The Echo/Neutra Averau 42 - Ceramic Meets Titanium In A Tool-Ready Package Fratello
Sep 12, 2025

Introducing: The Echo/Neutra Averau 42 - Ceramic Meets Titanium In A Tool-Ready Package

Echo/Neutra has been carving out its little corner of the watch world since 2018. The brand’s founders, Nicola Callegaro and Cristiano Quaglia, blend Italian design sensibilities with Swiss-made execution, and the catalog has steadily grown from vintage-inspired field watches to elegant titanium dress pieces. The new Averau 42, however, is a different beast altogether. It’s […] Visit Introducing: The Echo/Neutra Averau 42 - Ceramic Meets Titanium In A Tool-Ready Package to read the full article.

Introducing – Vibrant Stone Dials for the 38mm Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Selfwinding Flying Sep 12, 2025

Introducing – Vibrant Stone Dials for the 38mm Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

If there were a concise guide to the latest trends in watchmaking, it would likely feature compact unisex case sizes, vibrant colours and stone dials. Bang on trend, Audemars Piguet’s latest trilogy of compact 38mm Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon models flaunts vibrant-coloured stone dials sourced from around the world. As part of the brand’s […]

Get Ready For MACH: A Place To Showcase Horological Heritage, Transmit Know-How, And Raise Awareness Fratello
Sep 12, 2025

Get Ready For MACH: A Place To Showcase Horological Heritage, Transmit Know-How, And Raise Awareness

The world of horology is an emotional parallel universe where those who love watches can make them their livelihood. Now, it seems that watch brands, organizations, and media have realized that this universe can only continue to exist if the knowledge and appreciation of it continue to grow and evolve. Marc André Deschoux, who started […] Visit Get Ready For MACH: A Place To Showcase Horological Heritage, Transmit Know-How, And Raise Awareness to read the full article.

[VIDEO] Recapping the Paulin Mara Dive Watch Showroom Launch Event with Jason Heaton Worn & Wound
Sep 11, 2025

[VIDEO] Recapping the Paulin Mara Dive Watch Showroom Launch Event with Jason Heaton

Most recently, in our ongoing series of events at the Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom, we partnered with Paulin to celebrate the launch of their first dive watch: the Mara. The Scottish brand’s latest release is a rugged, spec-heavy timepiece built for daily adventures and more demanding expeditions. Paulin chose our showroom for its laid-back atmosphere, reputation within the NYC watch community, and its ability to host both hands-on watch time and intimate Q&As;-an opportunity they fully embraced. The evening began with the public unveiling of the Mara, a 300-meter diver in stainless steel measuring 39.7mm across. Its robust case features lugs that angle inward for a distinctive stance, while the playful, geometric hour markers give the dial a unique personality. The Mara comes in blue or black, each paired with a domed sapphire bezel-bright blue for the former, a ghostly grey for the latter. Both drew plenty of admiration from attendees. The room was set with imagery from Scotland’s beaches, Land Rovers, and underwater scenes, complemented by a Bruichladdich whisky tasting station. Guests mingled with Paulin designer Katie Muir and Jason Heaton-diver, journalist, podcaster (The Grey NATO), author (The Tusker Novels), and Explorers Club member-who had field-tested the Mara on Scotland’s rugged shores and starred in the watch’s launch campaign. After plenty of whisky and watch talk, Jason sat down with Worn & Wound’s Head of Partnerships, Kyle Sna...

Grand Seiko Adds a New Dress Watch with the 9SA4 Caliber to the Collection, Plus a New Tentagraph Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Adds Sep 11, 2025

Grand Seiko Adds a New Dress Watch with the 9SA4 Caliber to the Collection, Plus a New Tentagraph

Almost as soon as Grand Seiko released the SLGW002 and SLGW003 at Watches & Wonders 2024, we started to wonder what this new class of manually wound dress watch from one of our favorite brands might look like in different variants. This seemed like a natural platform for expansion, and we figured it was just a matter of time before we saw some alternative dial options and new metals. In the year and a half or so since Grand Seiko introduced these watches, and the 9SA4 caliber powering them, things have been quiet on the manually wound dress watch front. That is, until this week, when we finally got a peek at the new SLGW007, Grand Seiko’s first new launch with this case and movement since the big debut at Watches & Wonders last year.  While the most obvious update on the surface here is certainly the new dark blue dial, it’s actually the case itself that really has my interest. The SLGW003, you’ll recall, was crafted from Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium. This is a very cool material, for sure, but has a niche appeal in a classically styled dress watch like this thanks to its ultra light weight and the associations we all have with titanium and tool watches. The SLGW007 is in stainless steel, and I’m incredibly curious to see how this might change the character of the watch on the wrist. One would certainly expect it to be a bit heavier, but I imagine the finishing will also have a slightly different, perhaps more traditional look to it, at least in the con...