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Bienne

Bilingual Swiss city; HQ of Rolex (1919), Omega (1880), Tissot, Movado, Mido, ETA SA, Nivarox-FAR.

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGM255 Nov 5, 2025

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT

The Grand Seiko SBGM255 and SBGM257 bring two new dials to the classic Elegance Collection GMT. Both models preserve the 39.5mm stainless steel case and mechanical caliber 9S66 but introduce fresh dial designs inspired by the seasons. These new references serve up a restrained evolution of a design that has been a Grand Seiko cornerstone […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT to read the full article.

10 Of The Most Complicated Watches For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 5, 2025

10 Of The Most Complicated Watches For Every Budget

In the wild world of watches, the words “affordable” and “complicated” are most often mutually exclusive. The more complicated a piece is, I think, the more we all brace ourselves to expect the correlation of a dramatic surge in price. It’s par for the course. But in recent years, there have been some watchmakers out there that have dared to do the unexpected, to bring high complications down to the realm of mortal purchasing power. As always, measuring affordability remains a personal conundrum, but there is no denying that there are now options for perpetual calendars, jump hours, and the like that are now paired with a more easily digestible price tag.  In today’s guide, I’m tipping my hat to the various watch brands out there that have invested time and resources into leveling the playing field, crafting pieces of high horology that are more accessible than ever before. Across 10 pieces, we’re running the gamut of style and utility, but each piece is unique in its own way, and definitely worthy of your consideration if you’re looking for a complicated watch at a not-so-complicated price point.  Christopher Ward Bel Canto  Case: 41mm Material: Grade 5 Titanium Movement: Caliber FS01 Automatic Water Resistance: Price: Starts at $3,995 The only logical jumping off point for a guide such as this is with the watch that revolutionized haute-horology bells and whistles at an unheard-of price tag: the Bel Canto from British maker Christopher Ward. You’ve...

Everything You Need to Know About this Year’s Vortic Military Edition Releases Worn & Wound
Hamilton Nov 4, 2025

Everything You Need to Know About this Year’s Vortic Military Edition Releases

Next week is Veterans Day, which for the last several years has marked an important moment for Vortic, the Colorado based watch brand specializing in repurposing vintage pocket watch movements and dials into wrist worn cases that serve as special tributes to America’s watchmaking past. Each year on Veterans Day, Vortic releases their Military Edition, a special series of watches that incorporate movements and dials sourced from watches commissioned by the United States military. The watches have been a big hit for Vortic since their introduction, usually selling out within minutes of going on sale. They draw not only watch collectors, but of course have a natural appeal to history lovers and collectors of military odds and ends – they really thread the needle perfectly across multiple bands of enthusiasm. This year’s release has some additional special significance as a total of three distinct options will be available when these watches launch, including the first ever Vortic watches running on a vintage Swiss movement.  A quick recap of what the Military Edition actually consists of as a watch is probably the best place to start. Watches in the Military Edition are sourced from the AN5740-1 pocket watch, also known as the “Master Navigational Watch”, built to the specs of the Army Air Corp during World War II by Elgin, Waltham, and Hamilton. As with other historic watches built to military specs, the dials were standardized across all manufacturers, and each M...

Hands-on – The Elegant and Refined Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529 Monochrome
Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529 Nov 4, 2025

Hands-on – The Elegant and Refined Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529

The Seiko Presage Classic Series has been on a quiet roll. Last year’s SPB463/465/467 trio set the tone with soft, bowl-shaped cases, curved dials inspired by silk, and a 3-day automatic movement that made the Presage feel both more Japanese and more purposeful. The open-heart SPB469/471 extended the idea with radial “raw silk” textures and […]

First Look – The Tissot PRX now in 38mm Full-Titanium or Damascus Steel Cases (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Tissot PRX now Nov 4, 2025

First Look – The Tissot PRX now in 38mm Full-Titanium or Damascus Steel Cases (Incl. Video)

Since its introduction in 2021, the PRX collection by Tissot has never ceased to amaze and to grow in size. This range, one of the most accessible and compelling Swiss-made sporty-chic watches with an integrated bracelet, has become a commercial hit and has been offered in an array of colours, sizes, complications and materials. From […]

Atelier Wen Launches the Inflection, a Bold New Watch with a Tantalum Case and Bracelet Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Nov 3, 2025

Atelier Wen Launches the Inflection, a Bold New Watch with a Tantalum Case and Bracelet

Sometimes a watch comes along that feels like a culmination of something. The Atelier Wen Inflection, for anyone who has been following the brand or had a conversation with founder Robin Tallendier in the last few years, will likely have more than a whiff of that. After years of teases, hints, and lots of evidence of lofty ambitions, Atelier Wen’s full tantalum integrated bracelet sports watch is finally here.  I don’t think it’s overstating to say that the use of tantalum in watchmaking has been a bit of an obsession for the Atelier Wen team. The metal, in a lot of ways, feels like one of the last remaining frontiers of high end watchmaking. It’s rarely used because it’s so difficult to work with, but has a bunch of desirable qualities that make it highly sought after by collectors. The color, for one, is unlike any other metal, often exhibiting a hint of a blue tint. It’s also heavy and dense, resulting in a completely unique wearing experience that, if you like a heftier watch on your wrist, is kind of addictive. We’ve begun to see more brands experiment with tantalum in their watches in recent years, including J.N. Shapiro and Audemars Piguet, and even more have used it as an accent in some way.  But regular production tantalum watches are incredibly rare, and according to Atelier Wen, the Inflection is the first serially produced tantalum watch with a full tantalum bracelet. It’s been in the works at Atelier Wen since at least 2022, and follows the l...

30 Of The Best Titanium Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 3, 2025

30 Of The Best Titanium Watches

Titanium is by no means a new material in the watch industry. In fact, it’s been used on a commercial level in case construction for more than 50 years. Titanium in its raw form as a structural metal is 40% lighter than stainless steel while still just as hard. Among its appeal for watchmaking purposes are the facts that it is also highly resistant to corrosion by the elements as well as being hypoallergenic. There are different grades of titanium as well, which offer different characteristics based on how it’s alloyed with other metals. Titanium ranges in color from dark gunmetal grey to a steely silver which gives it versatility in different applications. Perhaps the most enticing aspect of titanium, particularly from the consumer side, is that despite its high-quality characteristics, there isn’t a massive discrepancy between its price versus that of stainless steel. With that in mind, we've compiled a list of 30 outstanding titanium watches in a range of price categories. Citizen Promaster Super Titanium Armor  Case Size: 41 mm, Integrated 23.5 mm Bracelet, Thickness: 10.5 mm, Lug-to-Lug: 43.7 mm, Water Resistance: 100 m, Movement: Eco Drive J810, Crystal: Sapphire, Price: $625 In 1970, Citizen launched the very first titanium wrist watch called the X-8 Cosmotron Chronometer. Today, Citizen uses what it calls Super Titanium, a titanium alloy coated with a proprietary hardening agent that increases the hardness of the metal to five times that of stainless steel. ...

Introducing the New Nomos Metro 38 Date Worn & Wound
Nomos Metro 38 Date Nomos Nov 3, 2025

Introducing the New Nomos Metro 38 Date

Nomos has been busy. Along with the recent introduction of a quartet of new Tetras to the lineup which we discussed just last week, the German brand has also introduced a new version of the Metro. The Metro has an interesting place in the Nomos lineup. It’s not one of the original designs from the launch of the brand, but over time it’s come to be fairly emblematic of what the brand stands for from a design perspective. The simple circular case and wire lugs have a modern, minimal vibe to them. When wearing the watch you come away with the feeling that there’s only enough material here to hold everything together and keep it looking like a Nomos, and nothing more. The dial, too, is quite distinctive, with ultra thin and elongated syringe hands and a series of simple dots to mark minutes and hours. This new reference is a subtly updated take on a classic version of the Metro, with a new movement that solves a longstanding issue.  The headline here is that the new Metro 38 Date runs on the still relatively new DUW 4601 caliber. This movement made its debut in the still incredibly weird and polarizing Tangente 2Date, which will be forever remembered for featuring not one but two date indications: one in a window at 6:00, and the other at the perimeter of the dial. This Metro, unlike the Tangente before it, only has a single date indicator at the 6:00 position. There have been many iterations on the Metro over the years, but this is the first time we’ve seen a date ve...

Complicated Collectors: John Pierpont Morgan SJX Watches
Rado xically one Nov 3, 2025

Complicated Collectors: John Pierpont Morgan

As part of a continuing series on great watch collectors, following the first studies dedicated to Elliott Cabot Lee and Thomas Engel, the third instalment turns to the horological world of John Pierpont Morgan Sr. (1837-1913). Based on the famous 1912 Chiswick Press catalogue, this analysis reflects the range and typological structure of his collection. These watches span devotional and allegorical forms, astronomical instruments, and multi-functional works of mechanical synthesis. While Morgan’s approach has sometimes been described as encyclopaedic rather than selective, the collection itself tells a different story, one in which historical resonance and technical refinement consistently overlap. The selection offers a tangible expression of Morgan’s collecting logic, in which cultural meaning, mechanical ingenuity, and symbolic intent were sought in equal measure. The man In the pantheon of American capitalists, J. Pierpont Morgan occupies a singular place: titan of industry, consolidator of empires, and paradoxically, one of the greatest cultural preservationists of his age. Born in Hartford, Connecticut in 1837, the son of an ambitious transatlantic banker, he came of age amid the expanding architecture of American finance. His education, from early childhood, was European. He studied in Switzerland and later in Germany, where a brief period at the University of Göttingen introduced him to the German language and the foundations of art history. These formative ...

Hands-On With The Refined Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection Fratello
Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection Nov 2, 2025

Hands-On With The Refined Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection

When a certain car model has been on the market for a few years, but it’s not yet time for the introduction of a completely new version, it receives a facelift. That seems to be exactly what Blancpain has given its Villeret Golden Hour collection. The watches are still very recognizable, but small tweaks in […] Visit Hands-On With The Refined Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection to read the full article.

The Petrolhead Corner – A Recreation of the Outrageous 1968 Marcos Mantis XP Prototype Set To Conquer Le Mans, But Didn’t… Monochrome
Nov 1, 2025

The Petrolhead Corner – A Recreation of the Outrageous 1968 Marcos Mantis XP Prototype Set To Conquer Le Mans, But Didn’t…

“What could have been…” is a remark often heard when talking about cancelled racing programs, failed prototypes or one-hit wonders. In the world of motorsports, there have been plenty of examples of this. Cars that raced just once, never managed to move beyond the development stage, or existed only in rumours, even. Think of the […]

Hands-on – The Delma Oceanmaster Lume… Nighttime Legibility for Real-World Sailing Monochrome
Oct 29, 2025

Hands-on – The Delma Oceanmaster Lume… Nighttime Legibility for Real-World Sailing

Delma isn’t a newcomer pretending to be a tool-watch brand. The independent, family-run company has been crafting robust sports watches in Lengnau since 1924 and has earned its reputation with capable (or highly capable) divers since the late 1960s. Within that foundation, the Oceanmaster line (introduced in 2017) is the brand’s nautical instrument: a large […]

First Look – The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage is an Attainable, Elegant Take on the Elliptical Shaped Watch (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Raymond Weil Oct 28, 2025

First Look – The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage is an Attainable, Elegant Take on the Elliptical Shaped Watch (Incl. Video)

Following the success of the Millesime collection, a series of vintage-inspired, 1930s-based watches that have been praised by enthusiasts and industry insiders (including us), Raymond Weil is back with yet another “Heritage” collection, despite being a relatively young brand founded in 1976. Surfing on the renewed interest for shaped, classic and dressier timepieces, the brand introduces the […]

Serica Introduces the New Parade “Linen” Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces Oct 28, 2025

Serica Introduces the New Parade “Linen”

The Windup Watch Fair, especially the New York City edition, has increasingly become a venue for brands to debut new watches aimed at their enthusiast fans. It makes a lot of sense if you’ve ever been to a Windup – there’s an incredibly high concentration of watch lovers in a single place, and many of them are in what you might call a buying mood. And of course, the new stuff is often the most enticing when that particular mood strikes. This year, Serica got in on the act, debuting new references in the Parade collection, their unexpected but incredibly well executed “dress watch” from last year. “Dress watch” is in scare quotes here because of course it’s quite a bit more complex than that, but it’s perhaps easiest to understand the Parade when you view it as a contrast (and complement) to Serica’s sportier offerings.  A quick refresher, in case it’s needed, on the Parade. Serica refers to the case as “stadium” shaped because it’s based on the architecture of the Roman Stadium, with straight sides that blend into an elliptical shape at 12 and 6. On the wrist, it presents as an oval, but a look at the case in profile (or any angle other than top down) reveals the case construction makes this one tough to pigeon hole. It offers 100 meters of water resistance while being just 8.2mm tall thanks to “sandwich” style construction that uses screws that hold the case together from the back and are housed in and protected by the bezel. This is far f...

Introducing – The New Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Speedster Limited Edition 2025 Monochrome
Union Glashütte Oct 28, 2025

Introducing – The New Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Speedster Limited Edition 2025

Founded in 1893 and rooted in the Saxon cradle of German watchmaking, Union Glashütte has never shied away from character. The brand´s Belisar series is famous for its automotive-inspired editions, and needless to say, the design cues of the Speedster editions have always been taken from a German car. This year, for the first time, […]

Fratello On Air: Seiko’s Triumphant Return Fratello
Seiko s Triumphant Return Welcome Oct 28, 2025

Fratello On Air: Seiko’s Triumphant Return

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss the triumphant return of Seiko to the forefront of value-laden watchmaking. For some, perhaps the massive Japanese company never left. From our perspective, though, 2025 has been a turning point. We feel that the brand has truly listened to its fan base and […] Visit Fratello On Air: Seiko’s Triumphant Return to read the full article.

Industry News: Time to Watches Joins the Couture Show in Las Vegas Worn & Wound
Oct 27, 2025

Industry News: Time to Watches Joins the Couture Show in Las Vegas

For the past few years, the Time to Watches show has been an important stop on our schedules while in Geneva for Watches & Wonders. Among the many, many events that take place parallel to the biggest trade show in the industry, Time to Watches, which features a variety of small, independent brands which tend to be on the more approachable side of the spectrum, feels like it’s really in our wheelhouse. This year’s Time to Watches event in Geneva was greatly expanded over previous years, and in a new location a stone’s throw from Palexpo, making it an easy and obvious stop for Watches & Wonders attendees.  This morning, news broke that Time to Watches is coming to the United States through a new partnership with Couture, the Las Vegas trade show held every year at the Wynn. Couture, these days, is primarily a jewelry focused event. There are still a number of watch brands that exhibit at Couture, but that figure seems to be decreasing year after year. It’s a huge event for the jewelry industry, but seems to be less critical for the watch world. It certainly has not had the media presence in recent years that it once did.  In a press release, the partnership was described as a move to bring a “curation of luxury timepieces” to the Couture event in Las Vegas. Time to Watches has secured exhibition space at the Wynn that promises easy access to all Couture attendees. Time to Watches Managing Director Christian Wipfli sees Couture as a natural partner in the United...

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Harrison H4 – A Groundbreaking Timepiece That Solved The Longitude Problem Worn & Wound
Oct 27, 2025

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Harrison H4 – A Groundbreaking Timepiece That Solved The Longitude Problem

A series of features identifying the most extraordinary mechanical masterpieces in history, blending precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. We all have our favourite timepieces either in our collection or those incredible horological masterpieces that have been invented or created through the ages. This series will showcase examples from the previous centuries up to the present day and look at the importance and impact on modern day timekeeping.  John Harrison’s H4 Chronometer was a groundbreaking timepiece that solved the longitude problem, a major challenge for navigation during the 18th century. Before Harrison’s work, sailors had no reliable way to determine their precise east-west position at sea, leading to deadly navigation errors. The British government, through the Longitude Act of 1714, offered a large prize to anyone who could develop a practical solution. Sir Cloudesley Shovell, by Michael Dahl, about 1702-5 (L); The Association with the Eagle, Rumney and the Firebrand, Lost on the Rocks of Scilly, October 22, 1707 (R). Image courtesy of the © National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London The Catalyst for the Longitude Act In the early 18th century, determining longitude at sea was one of the greatest challenges in navigation. While sailors could measure latitude using the position of the sun or stars, longitude required precise timekeeping-something that was nearly impossible with the unreliable clocks of the time. The inability to determ...

Introducing: The Europe-Only Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic With A Different Dial Fratello
Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic Oct 27, 2025

Introducing: The Europe-Only Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic With A Different Dial

It’s back - but only in Europe, with a limit of 100 pieces. The Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic Edition Europe exchanges the standard model’s Arabic numerals for stick indexes, creating a more sober and persuasive Art Deco look. Alpina has been on a retro roll lately. Earlier this year, the brand released the Heritage Tropic-Proof, […] Visit Introducing: The Europe-Only Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic With A Different Dial to read the full article.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller Vs. Doxa’s Sub 300T: A Battle For The Burly Wristed Fratello
Rolex Sea-Dweller Vs Doxa’s Sub Oct 27, 2025

The Rolex Sea-Dweller Vs. Doxa’s Sub 300T: A Battle For The Burly Wristed

Let’s rewind to the golden age of scuba diving and, some would say, sports-watch design. It is the 1960s, and Doxa and Rolex are co-developing a specialized technology that will allow their ultimate diving watches to endure the rigors of the deep. A consistent issue had been noted after dive watches had spent time at […] Visit The Rolex Sea-Dweller Vs. Doxa’s Sub 300T: A Battle For The Burly Wristed to read the full article.

Editorial: Reflections on WatchTime New York 2025 SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2 Initial Oct 27, 2025

Editorial: Reflections on WatchTime New York 2025

Autumn has always been a special time in New York, and that’s especially true now that the city plays host to the nation’s flagship watch fair. Held each October in the heart of Midtown, WatchTime New York has become one of the most high profile public watch fairs in the United States, bringing together independent watchmakers, major brands, and collectors under the imposing dome of Gotham Hall. Now in its tenth year, the 2025 edition was the largest yet, and served as the backdrop for the public unveiling of a few notable watches (and one strap). The Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2. Initial thoughts This was my third year attending WatchTime, and the experience is remarkably consistent from year-to-year. That said, this year’s event was clearly the biggest yet, with 44 brands and more than 2,700 visitors. Despite this turnout, it’s still a fraction the size of an event like Watches & Wonders, which gives it a more intimate feel that reminds me of SalonQP, which was an annual watch fair in London put on by now-defunct QP magazine. In other words, it’s big enough to attract big names and small enough to allow the general public to meet watchmakers that they might not otherwise have access to; Kari Voutilainen, Stepan Sarpaneva, Martin Frei of Urwerk, Albert Edelmann of Zeitwinkel, and Roland Murphy of RGM were present throughout the fair to engage with collectors. A big turnout Not only did WatchTime attendance set a record, the nearby Windup Watch Fair, a free event f...

A Few Slightly Less Obvious, Loosely Cohesive Perspectives On Watch Design Fratello
Oct 25, 2025

A Few Slightly Less Obvious, Loosely Cohesive Perspectives On Watch Design

Wristwatches have been mainstream for a little over a century now. This gives us a decent timeframe to reflect on watch design and its evolution. We tend to throw terms like “watch design” and “aesthetics” around loosely, but I feel that these concepts warrant a closer look and a slightly wider perspective. Consider this my […] Visit A Few Slightly Less Obvious, Loosely Cohesive Perspectives On Watch Design to read the full article.

Franck Muller’s Vanguard Mexico Edition is Patina’ed, Slim, Minimalist SJX Watches
Franck Muller Oct 24, 2025

Franck Muller’s Vanguard Mexico Edition is Patina’ed, Slim, Minimalist

Thin and time only, the Vanguard Slim is Franck Muller’s take on a modern dress watch. It’s been reimagined by the brand’s distributor in Mexico, Raconli Group, which tapped Marcos Cojab, an architect who’s also a sculptor working under the moniker Alquimiamc. The result is the Vanguard Alquimiamc clad in bronze – the case and dial are aged bronze, brushed by hand. The 15-piece edition is made up of two variants, one in the familiar Vanguard configuration, and another with a minimalist dial free of numerals. Thanks to the styling and materials, both versions are intriguing designs that depart from the usual Franck Muller style. Initial thoughts The Vanguard Slim is one of Franck Muller’s most appealing current models. While the typical Franck Muller is oversized and sometimes over designed, the Vanguard Slim is the opposite – the curved case is under 10 mm high, giving it an elegant profile, while the dial is cleaner thanks to just two hands. Earlier versions of the Vanguard Slim were already simple, but the Alquimiamc goes even further, with less obvious branding, though the version with numerals is still recognisable as the Vanguard. Instead the Alquimiamc emphasises the texture and shading of the aged bronze, which gives it an unusual appeal. Bronze inside and out The Alquimiamc edition is derived from the Vanguard Slim (also known as the Line Cut), a sleek time-only version of Franck Muller’s bestselling model. While the brand is best known for its ext...

Fratello’s Top 5 Titanium Watches Of Recent Years - Featuring Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith, And More Fratello
Grand Seiko Zenith Oct 24, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Titanium Watches Of Recent Years - Featuring Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’re following up last week’s article about ceramic watches with our favorite titanium ones. After all, it just made sense to dive deeper into the world of modern materials used for watches. While titanium has been around for quite a few decades in the watch world, it’s still considered […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Titanium Watches Of Recent Years - Featuring Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith, And More to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Skipper-Inspired Baltic Scalegraph Limited Edition Monochrome
Baltic Scalegraph Limited Edition Besides Oct 23, 2025

Introducing – The New Skipper-Inspired Baltic Scalegraph Limited Edition

Besides their accessible dress watches and fairly-priced yet robust retro-inspired divers, Baltic has long been all about race cars and vintage motorsport competitions (not really a surprise when you know the founders’ passion). The connection between cars and watches is obvious, and Baltic materialised it with several Tour Auto-themed models, the latest in line being […]

Introducing – The Bell & Ross BR-X3 Night Vision, the Instrument for Night Missions Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-X3 Night Vision Oct 23, 2025

Introducing – The Bell & Ross BR-X3 Night Vision, the Instrument for Night Missions

It’s been 20 years since Parisian brand Bell & Ross released its emblematic BR-01 collection, a striking design – known as the “circle within a square” – inspired by dashboard instruments found in fighter jets. This strong connection with military planes and pilots of all sorts has long been the brand’s defining style, pushing the […]