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3,519 articles · 235 videos found · page 23 of 126

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain “China 2010” May 17, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong

After a weekend in Geneva, the spring auction season returns to Hong Kong where Phillips will stage The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV over two days, with the first session on May 27 followed by the second the day after. As is increasingly the case with all auction houses, Phillips’ upcoming sale includes of a variety of watches that represent the spectrum of independent watchmaking. The lineup encompasses some truly rare and special watches – including the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain “China 2010” – along with a few one-offs like a Lang & Heyne sports watch prototype. The prototype Lang & Heyne Friedrich II Remontoir We round up seven of the notable examples of independent watchmaking in the sale, including a little-known and short-lived collaboration between MB&F; and Urwerk as well as a striking De Bethune DBS in rose gold and blue. Registration to bid and the full catalogue can be accessed here. (All of the photos are our own, except those of the DBS-R and Tourbillon Souverain “China” that were provided by Phillips.) Lot 834: C3H5N309 “Nitro” ZR012 Black by MB&F; and Urwerk While MB&F; and Urwerk are amongst the most prominent names in avant-garde watchmaking, the 2012 collaboration between the two is ironically obscure. Named after the chemical name of nitroglycerin – the key ingredient in dynamite – C3H5N3O9 was conceived as an all-new brand established by the founders of MB&F; and Urwerk. C3H5N3O9, or Nitro for short, was a short-lived vent...

Krug Champagne: A Story Of Krugists Earning Five Cases Per Year Every Year For The Rest Of One’s Life And Wine Tasting Like “. . . Angels Have Descended From Heaven” – Reprise Quill & Pad
Apr 2, 2022

Krug Champagne: A Story Of Krugists Earning Five Cases Per Year Every Year For The Rest Of One’s Life And Wine Tasting Like “. . . Angels Have Descended From Heaven” – Reprise

Anyone who expresses even so much as a fleeting interest in great wine will soon come across Krug, for many the greatest champagne of all. There are champagne lovers and then there are devotees of Krug: Krugists. Ken Gargett doubts that any other champagne, or wine, has a word to designate its adoring fans. Here he explains why.

TAG Heuer puts the novel in novelty with new tourbillon chronograph cased in diamond-set aluminum Time+Tide
TAG Heuer puts Mar 30, 2022

TAG Heuer puts the novel in novelty with new tourbillon chronograph cased in diamond-set aluminum

Novelty. It is a term utilised by watch manufacturers across the board in regard to their new releases for a given period or year. But the definition of the word novelty is “the quality of being new, original, or unusual”, and, if we are being honest, more often than not we find brands introducing the … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer puts the novel in novelty with new tourbillon chronograph cased in diamond-set aluminum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS:  Get red-faced and bronze-cased with the William Wood Valiant Bronze Ruby Time+Tide
Nov 15, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Get red-faced and bronze-cased with the William Wood Valiant Bronze Ruby

Perhaps it’s something we take for granted, but one of the things we can always count on is the valour and bravery of our local fire departments. And this was the impetus behind the foundation of British watch brand William Wood. Founded by Jonny Garrett, whose grandfather William Wood was a decorated British Fire Service … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Get red-faced and bronze-cased with the William Wood Valiant Bronze Ruby appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 Deployant
Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 Oct 30, 2021

Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42

The Breitling Premier B15 Duograph is Breitling’s take on a split second chronograph with a center monopusher. Featuring rectangular chronograph pushers and Arabic numerals, the heritage-revived Premier Duograph displays a variety of details such as grooves on the case-sides, open sapphire casebacks and syringe hands. The Duograph comes in stainless steel with a blue dial or in 18k red gold with a black dial.

Fly-By Death: 5 Skull-Themed BR 01 Timepieces By Bell & Ross – Reprise Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross Reprise Bell & Ross’s Oct 30, 2021

Fly-By Death: 5 Skull-Themed BR 01 Timepieces By Bell & Ross – Reprise

Bell & Ross’s unique BR 01 Instrument stole the spotlight at its launch in 2005 thanks to its unusual circle-in-a-square case, becoming an instant hit. The BR 01 was then used as a jumping-off point for a variety of designs, beginning in 2009 with the then-trendy skull motif – which in Elizabeth Doerr's eyes was a perfect addition. How has the skull motif evolved at Bell & Ross? Find out here!

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième While Aug 1, 2021

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième

While the Reverso was conceived as a sports watch – it flipped over to protect the crystal – the swivelling case makes more sense today as a double-faced complication (or a canvas for miniature painting). And that’s precisely what Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has done with a variety of models, ranging from the twin-time zone Duoface to the Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque with four faces. The Quadriptyque is the flagship model for the Reverso’s 90th anniversary, with 11 complications and a price tag north of US$1.6 million. Also created for the anniversary, but more affordable – relatively speaking – is the Reverso Tribute Nonantième that shows a single time on two faces, a conventional one on the front, and a charming secondary display on the back. Initial thoughts With a case that’s among the largest of Reversos, the Nonantième is a big watch. Pick it up and the size is immediately apparent; it would be considerably more elegant if smaller. It feels like a chunky, complicated watch. In fact, it’s almost as large as the Quadriptyque in diameter and length, despite being far simpler. On the front it’s typical of current Reverso design. All of the elements on the dial are classical and work together well. The only piece of the front that stands out is the moon phase display, which has a textured moon that gives the dial a little life. Its better side is the reverse, which shows hours and minutes in a manner that’s decidedly special for a Reverso. ...

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT Being Jun 25, 2021

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT

Being best known for its aviation-instrument watches, it is logical that Bell & Ross also does well with watches that keep track of a second, and now a third, time zone. The brand’s catalogue includes a variety of travel watches, with the latest being the BR 03-93 GMT. It’s an improved version of the brand’s longstanding dual time zone in a square case, now enhanced with a bi-directional, 24-hour bezel in “Coke” colours that allow it to display the time in up to three places. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross (B&R;) launched the original BR 03-93 GMT in 2016, which was the brand’s first wristwatch to combine the signature square case with a second time zone. The first-generation model has a fixed bezel, limiting its functionality to just two time zones. Subsequently, B&R; introduced a model with a rotating, 24-hour bezel – allowing it to track a third time zone – but in a more conventional round case. The BR V2-93 GMT, the first B&R; watch to feature a bi-directional, 24-hour bezel. Photo – B&R; While the square BR 03 case and rotating second time zone bezel might seem like an obvious combination, it has never existed, until now. The new BR 03-93 GMT is the first to install a bi-directional, 24-hour bezel on the brand’s best-known case design. Given B&R;’s roots in “tool” watches for pilots and other professionals, I’m surprised that it took as long as it did for B&R; to combine the two. The 24-hour bezel is executed in the familiar halves of black and...

Review: new Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 Copper Deployant
Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 Jun 19, 2021

Review: new Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 Copper

The Breitling Premier Datora is Breitling's take on a calendar chronograph with moon-phase. Featuring rectangular chronograph pushers and Arabic numerals, the heritage-revived Premier Datora displays a variety of details such as grooves on the case-sides, open sapphire casebacks and syringe hands. The Datora comes in stainless steel with a copper dial or in 18k red gold with a silver dial. “Datora” was a term used by Breitling in the 1940s and refers to a complete calendar chronograph displaying day, date, month and moonphase.

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire SJX Watches
Patek Philippe watches Apr 21, 2021

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire

One of Franck Muller’s bestselling models, the Vanguard is a modern take on the brand’s signature Cintree Curvex case. Already available in a bewildering variety of sizes, complications, and materials, the line now gets one of its most interesting iterations yet – the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire. Featuring a clear sapphire crystal case, the new Vanguard is interesting beyond its colours and shape. Inside is a hand-wind, in-house movement with a seven-day power reserve. And in the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire Color Dreams, the movement bridges are anodised in a multitude of colours. The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire Color Dreams Initial thoughts The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire is typical of modern-day Franck Muller watches – large and flamboyant, especially in the Color Dreams livery. But it also reflects Franck Muller being a vertically-integrated brand – an accomplishment not widely recognised by aficionados – with the in-house form movement that has a weeklong power reserve. With black-coated bridges While the shape of the case is reminiscent of Richard Mille, Franck Muller is the brand responsible for making the tonneau case popular in contemporary watchmaking. The Cintree Curvex was inspired by tonneau-shaped Cartier and Patek Philippe watches of the early 20th century, and became one of the “it” watches of the 1990s. But the new Vanguard’s retail price of about US$150,000 is too much – by a large margin. Skeleton sapphire The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire i...

Review: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in the new Black Black Deployant
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Apr 3, 2021

Review: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in the new Black Black

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black is possibly the best looking modern Seamaster in today's lineup. It is in the larger size variant at 43.5 mm, but benefits from an all black case, dial and hands combination. By virtue of this matte black color, the watch is stealthy and unpretentious. The reliability of the co-axial movement with tested accuracy and anti-magnetism makes it ideal for a daily beater. Water proof to 300m, and fitted with a rubber strap, the watch is definitely versatile and sporty. It is priced at US$8650.

3 New Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Models For 2021: Sky Blue, Green, And Yellow, All In Ceramic Cases Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz Mar 18, 2021

3 New Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Models For 2021: Sky Blue, Green, And Yellow, All In Ceramic Cases

The Grande Seconde is an iconic Jaquet Droz model. It’s a wristwatch interpretation of a historic Jaquet Droz pocket watch from 1748 featuring two overlapping dials forming a graceful figure eight. The Grande Seconde is as classic a Jaquet Droz as they come, but the Skelet-One, while retaining the same dial layout, is anything but classic. Ian Skellern takes a closer look at three new models from this surprising line for 2021.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Nov 20, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon

Combining an unusual variety of complications that nevertheless go well aesthetically, the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is the latest tourbillon wristwatch from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which has made something of a speciality in iterating its tourbillon movements with various additional complications. Powered by the newly-developed cal. 983, the new watch features a moon phase, pointer date, and tourbillon regulator. And its case is made of Le Grand rose gold, a fade-resistant gold alloy unveiled only earlier in the year. Initial thoughts The Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is a handsome watch executed in the typical Jaeger-LeCoultre style. The design is classical, with a handful of details that refine the look, including the applied hour markers and metal-deposition moon phase scale. And the movement is decorated well, though largely by mechanical methods, and the result is visually appealing. But it is a bit large at 41.5 mm in diameter, and also thick at 12.1 mm high – giving it dimensions similar to a sports chronograph. The cal. 983 in the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon And the retail price of US$88,500 is high. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s strength is haute horlogerie in the middle of the price segment – though it’s been drifting upwards – alongside brands like Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. But both those brands recently launched tourbillons of comparable quality – the Blast and Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon respectively – that cost less. Master To...

Longines Introduces the Legend Diver Watch in Bronze SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Nov 16, 2020

Longines Introduces the Legend Diver Watch in Bronze

For watch enthusiasts, Longines’ forte is its Heritage collection, a series of well-priced vintage remakes that began with the Legend Diver of 2007. Based on the ref. 7042 of 1960s, which had a distinctive, twin-crown  “Super Compressor” case, the Legend Diver is a bestseller thanks to its convincingly retro style. And now Longines has just unveiled the Legend Diver Watch in bronze, which has a new case material for the model, but does away with the date function long panned by aficionados. Initial thoughts Bronze is a popular case material for dive watches that was once exotic but is now a bit too faddish, being found on watches priced as low as a few hundred dollars. Its desirability comes from its unusual, evolving appearance from the patina that develops on its surface as its oxidises. A Legend Diver in bronze is a natural move – and the watch looks good, while retaining the appealing affordability typical of Longines. While the material is the highlight, the dial has been tweaked to match the bronze case. Most notable is the elimination of the date display found on the standard, steel Legend Diver but not on the original, which brings the design of the bronze model closer to the vintage model. At the same time, the dial has a smoked, green finish that matches the colour of bronze well. With a price tag of US$3,000, the bronze Legend Diver is about 30% more expensive than its steel counterpart. It’s a modest and fair premium, considering both the case mate...

The Louis Vuitton 2020 Collection delivers flying tourbillons, gem-set cases and some very special spinning cubes Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton 2020 Collection delivers flying Nov 5, 2020

The Louis Vuitton 2020 Collection delivers flying tourbillons, gem-set cases and some very special spinning cubes

Louis Vuitton are best known today for their leather goods, and historically for their travel trunks, but when it comes to watchmaking, most aren’t aware of the work they do. Of course, having such a well-recognised brand globally is a double-edged sword, where Louis Vuitton bags are desired all over the world, but the quality … ContinuedThe post The Louis Vuitton 2020 Collection delivers flying tourbillons, gem-set cases and some very special spinning cubes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Armin Strom Lady Beat – the first ladies watch from the brand Deployant
Armin Strom Lady Beat – Oct 20, 2020

New: Armin Strom Lady Beat – the first ladies watch from the brand

The newest watch from Armin Strom demonstrates one of the brand’s core principles: always innovate. Boldly redesigning the brand’s typical movement, dial and case, Lady Beat marks a milestone of the new System 78 Collection, which highlights innovative watchmaking at a competitive price. Press Release Price is set at CHF 16,900. We have requested forRead More