Teddy Baldassarre
The Rolex Oyster Case: 100 Years of Making History
The Rolex Oyster Case is one of the most important developments in watchmaking, here we go through its 100 year history.
3,853 articles · 14 videos found · page 1 of 129
Teddy Baldassarre
The Rolex Oyster Case is one of the most important developments in watchmaking, here we go through its 100 year history.
Fratello
Over time, the English brand Farer has developed a collection with a very distinct style. The brand is now introducing 35mm watches in the Farer Cushion Case collection. These are a smidgen smaller than the 38.5mm version Farer introduced in 2022, and they feature some interesting dials. Adventurous even, because the pink Furneaux is named […] Visit Introducing: Two New 35mm Watches In The Farer Cushion Case Collection to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Farer's new 35mm Furneaux and Belzoni feature spun gradient dials, a hand-wound Sellita, and steeper cushion case angles.
Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux has updated their Laureato with a unique case in two flavors via a pair of watches called the Absolute Light & Shade, and Absolute Light & Fire. What might sound like a fancy new vodka cocktail concoction is actually representative of two takes on a translucent case that’s been subjected to a metallisation process. The result are these Shade and Fire themed Laureato watches, rendered in clear but smokey gray and red tones. The rather complex case shape makes for an interesting experience in this material, while the opacity level means the intricate details aren’t lost in the mix. G-P’s take on the high-end integrated sports watch has always stood a bit outside the norm when it comes to these things, and it’s served all the better for it in this execution. The Laureato was launched in 1975, a year before the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and three years after the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Then and now, the watch stands in good company and while it’s managed to skirt much of the hype that once riddled the references above, it’s remained a low-key favorite of long-time enthusiasts looking to fly under the radar. What these new models lack in subtlety, however, they make up for in their avant garde execution. It’s also worth noting that a 38mm steel Laureato can still be had at retail for under $15k. The Light & Shade and Light & Fire join Girard-Perregaux’s Absolute Laureato collection, which was introduced in 2019. The Light & Shade features a ...
SJX Watches
Originally conceived as a pilot’s watch when it was created over a century ago – as one of the first-ever wristwatches in fact – the Santos is not even remotely sporty in the modern sense of the term. Instead the Santos is an elegant watch that is quintessential Cartier. Earlier this year, the Parisian jeweller recently gave its trademark square watch a bold makeover when it debuted the Santos-Dumont Large Model Lacquered Case. Featuring a bezel and case covered in lacquer, the new Santos-Dumont was unexpected and certainly one of the most intriguing iterations of the models to date, yet it easily feels like quintessential Cartier. The steel version with black lacquer Initial thoughts The lacquered Santos-Dumont is an achievement given that the original is so established, perhaps the bestselling square watch in history. Though the case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a lacquered bezel dating from the 1920s, the new Santos-Dumont still feels satisfyingly original. It obviously reimagines a familiar design, one so familiar it might have even become tired, but manages to translates it into something entirely different. A pair of vintage Santos watches from around 1910, both part of the Cartier Collection In fact, the lacquered Santos-Dumont stands apart not only from earlier Santos models but also the competition. While brightly-coloured dials are now common for dress watches, the same cannot be said of the case. As a result, this is one of the most interesti...
Video
The case back is easy to overlook. After all, it spends most of its time pressed against your wrist, hidden from view. But turn a watch over, and the case back can reveal a completely different side of the design. For...
SJX Watches
The fact that e-sports – essentially competitive computer gaming – is a major phenomenon is hardly new. But now the world’s largest luxury brand is in on the action: Louis Vuitton just announced that it will build the trophy case for the Summoner’s Cup, the huge silver-plated chalice – weighing about 70lbs, or 32kg – that’s given to the winner of the League of Legends World Championship. This marks the first foray of a major luxury house into e-sports, and elevates the League of Legends championship to equal footing with global and historical sporting events like the soccer World Cup. League of Legends is one of the world’s biggest multiplayer online games, with last year’s championship event watched live by almost 100m people. It’s set in a fantasy world, with players controlling a character that, along with teammates, battles the opposing team. The annual championship sees 24 teams from around the world compete for US$1m in prize money – and the giant trophy in a Louis Vuitton trunk. The game joins events like the FIFA World Cup, America’s Cup, Rugby World Cup, and French Open, all of which have had their trophies accompanied by a custom-made Louis Vuitton travel trunk. Like all the other trophy cases, the League of Legends trunk is constructed like a traditional Louis Vuitton trunk, with a wood frame covered in monogram canvas with brass fittings; the only being last year’s FIFA World Cup trunk that was made of polished titanium. Along...
Time+Tide
Hublot have made big strides in recent years to establish watchmaking credibility as a counterweight to its heavy-hitting celebrity power. Regular nominations in various GPHG categories – across womens and mens watches – have been a meaningful benchmark for progress, and new crowd-pleasers, such as the delightful movement architecture of the Meca-10, have opened up … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Pulling apart a Hublot tourbillon cage to see how it works appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Rolex is one of the largest, most prominent brands in the world. Unlike many other brands of this size, Rolex is a private company and so it is somewhat opaque when it comes to hard facts about what goes on behind closed doors. But some numbers can be found online, and are used to determine roughly how many watches Rolex makes a year and how much revenue is made per model.
WristBuzz
Anoma's A1 gets its most radical rework yet, trading polished geometry for a texture straight out of the Stone Age
WristBuzz
Blancpain shrinks its ultra-thin dress watch to 38mm and debuts a first-ever sunburst salmon dial for the Villeret line
Video
Worn & Wound
Ever since I got the results back from a DNA test I sent off to Ancestry, I’ve become something of an unrepentant Anglophile. That doesn’t mean I’ve covered my walls in Union Jacks or suddenly embraced everything coming out of Britain (I still think The Beatles are just okay). But even so, I do have a bit of a soft spot for all things English – and you can include Farer in that mix. Farer has long been a watchmaker that I’ve admired, not least of all because there’s a good chance that anyone on their payroll and I are related (it is a rather tiny island). In reality, Farer has built a brand on two pillars which have made it undeniably eye-catching: a keen sense of color and a suite of watch types for anyone’s personal preference. And with the release of their latest 35mm Cushion Case collection, we see both of these qualities in action. The new models build on the cushion-shaped case Farer first introduced in 2022, but bring the design into a smaller format. Measuring 35mm across and just 10mm thick, the new collection has had some design changes to better suit the updated diminutive size. Subtle adjustments to the case architecture give the design a slightly sharper and more contemporary feel. The bezel now slopes more dramatically, helping the polished surfaces catch the light from multiple angles. That curvature continues through the case sides into Farer’s distinctive “bat ear” lugs, while a scalloped section between them allows the strap to sit clo...
Deployant
British independent Farer releases a new collection to add to their often quirky take on travel watches. Two new references are released.
Hodinkee
But first, we return to Journe's home headquarters in old town Geneva to see how things have grown.
Monochrome
Wristwatch manufacturers focus on keeping cases air and watertight so the movements can operate trouble-free in daily use. This started in earnest in 1926 with Rolex’s robust Oyster case, but even delicate dress watches today have a degree of water and dust resistance for splashes, rain and so on. However, a small handful of brands […]
SJX Watches
Well regarded for offering strong value, the Seiko Presage has seen a proliferation of variations in dial styles, ranging from stamped patterns to high-end materials like fired enamel and porcelain. The diversity of dials continues with the Presage Sharp Edged Series. The new quartet of watches all feature a dial decorated with a repeating motif inspired by a traditional Japanese leaf pattern. But as the model name suggests, the new watches also boast a new case design that, with the use of edges and angles, creates the play between light and shadow – an attempt, in other words, to give the Presage a more upscale case finish. Initial thoughts The new Presage is slightly pricier than earlier models, but boasts several smart details that set it apart. Both the case and dial have been refined as compared to previous generations. The case has slightly more elaborate finishing, while the dial is decorated with a stamped pattern that catches the light nicely. And that continues right down to details like the the applied markers and date window frame. All of that makes it a value buy at US$1,000, though the higher price tag means it is not as much of a screaming deal as its predecessors. Refined case lines At first glance, the angular case with its wide lugs is reminiscent of the 44GS case, perhaps is the most recognisable Grand Seiko case design. However, the Presage Sharp Edged is not merely Grand Seiko “lite”. With a contrasting brushed top on the lugs, the watch looks s...
Video
On this channel, we review watches that are available for purchase on TeddyBaldassarre.com
Hodinkee
Smaller case sizes and a subtly refined design? Count me in.
Time+Tide
The new Hermes H08 case uses three materials: rose gold, titanium, and ceramic We dig the H08 collection for its sporty chic look that’s distinct to the brand This new model is approximately twice the price of the previous titanium models Within the sports watch category a lot of designs can look similar. For example, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Hermès H08 in rose gold, titanium and ceramic offers a refreshing take on sporty chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
New case sizes and dials for Zenith's classic in-house time and date model.
Fratello
It will come as no surprise to our regular readers that I love vintage watches. Some of you may remember that I recently purchased a vintage King Seiko ref. 45-7001 45KS. Now, some months into owning that vintage King Seiko, I have decided to modify it with a sapphire case back. After some research, I […] Visit Modifying Your Vintage Watch With A Sapphire Case Back to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The smallest modern King Seiko to date tells the story of how influential Ivy League style has been on Japanese fashion, with a new 36mm case.The post King Seiko goes preppy with Ivy League inspiration and a new case size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
The Constellation star and OMEGA logo applied individually. At 39.4 mm, the tolerances are fractions of a millimetre.
Time+Tide
Jumping right into another edition of the FWD, Breitling hosted a top event at Melbourne’s Dutton Garage for their Top Time line of chronographs. Inspired by iconic American cars, the Top Time pieces sat next to their respective inspirations – the Mustang, Corvette, Cobra and Thunderbird. View this post on Instagram A post … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Breitling showcases the Top Time among automotive royalty, Naoya Hida presents a new case, URWERK remain URWERK appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
As Will Ferrell’s character Jacobim Mugatu in Zoolander would say about Hansel, vintage watches are “so hot right now”. Many collectors naturally have a greater appreciation for vintage pieces – watches that inspire many of the modern re-interpretations we see throughout the marketplace today. I read once that vintage watch dealer Matthew Bain remembers when … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Perezcope Holmes and the case of the Franken Paul Newman Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Anoma is back with a new take on its 1950s-inspired asymmetrical A1, but unlike previous riffs, which varied the dials but left the cases untouched, the A1 Prehistoric features a hand-chiselled case inspired by Stone Age human tools. Initial thoughts The original Anoma A1 was inspired in part by the sculptures created by Constantin Brancusi, specifically his ability to convey movement and create tension. But Brancusi was not just a painter and a sculptor — he also collected primitive human artefacts. In Brancusi’s view, early hand-carved tools like arrowheads and hand axes represent some of humanity’s earliest — and therefore purest — forms of creativity and craftsmanship. The A1 Prehistoric takes inspiration from these ancient tools with its distinctive case finish. To create it, Anoma turned to French engraver Steven Brunel to bring the Prehistoric to life. With hundreds of blows from his chisel, Mr Brunel removes material by hand until the case resembles a primitive stone tool. With so many uneven facets, the play of light across the case should be quite remarkable. Furthermore, each case will look slightly different since the strikes are made freehand. In an industry that is built on precision, perfection and order, the Prehistoric deviates sharply from the norm with a finish that revels in our primal impulses to shape the world around us. One thing that hasn’t changed much is the value proposition that has defined the A1 since its debut. At £2,900, the Pr...
Worn & Wound
Oris is once again expanding their Aquis collection, this time debuting a reference with a small seconds indicator in a case with a larger footprint, the Aquis Small Second Date 45.5mm. The Aquis is one of the Swiss brand’s signature creations, and as such Oris has endeavored to make it available, and palatable, to a huge range of potential customers, with cases ranging from 36.5mm all the way up to 45.8mm for the Aquis Depth Gauge. Over the last few release cycles, we’ve seen Oris put a focus on the smaller and medium sized watches, but here we get a big one, with a case measuring 45.5mm, a brand new size for the diver, and featuring the increasingly rare small seconds indicator at 9:00. When we think about dive watches, normally we consider them along the metric of water resistance and legibility, but there’s another core component of any diver that is less discussed and often taken for granted, and that’s being able to immediately determine if the watch is running. Needless to say, a dive watch that has stopped running doesn’t do you very much good at all, and could potentially be quite dangerous for a diver relying on their watch to time surface intervals or bottom time. If you picture a dive watch in your mind’s eye, you’re likely to think of one with a centrally mounted seconds hand, which makes it easy to see at a glance whether or not a watch is functioning at its most basic level. But for timing purposes, getting a readout to the second isn’t of ...
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021 is an interesting one – the FFC Blue, characterised by a hand on the dial that displays the hours. Like F.P. Journe’s past contributions to Only Watch, the FFC Blue is powered by a prototype movement – rough around the edges and lots of character – and features a case of tantalum, the grey-blue metal synonymous with the bestselling Chronometre Bleu. Named after the initials of Francis Ford Coppola, the film director best known for The Godfather, the FFC Blue originated in a 2012 visit to Mr Coppola’s residence. The director asked Mr Journe a seemingly innocuous question over dinner, wondering whether it was possible to tell the time with a human hand. Mr Journe mulled it over and over several years devised a mechanism with the help of Mr Coppola, who sent sketches of the desired finger positions for each hour. The unveiling of the FFC Blue also marks the 20th anniversary of the F.P. Journe Octa and its automatic cal. 1300 (it’s the second watch to mark the occasion in fact), which is the base movement of the FFC Blue. Initial Impressions At first glance, the FFC Blue is bizarre for F.P. Journe. The hand sculpture on the dial is unlike most of the brand’s other designs, which are mostly conservative and often Breguet-inspired. Upon closer examination, indeed a bizarre watch it is – in a good way. The mechanism is an impressive example of an automaton, a complex answer to a simple question: how can the human hand...
Video
How many can you get right? Identify these iconic silhouettes to prove you’re a true watch expert. Most enthusiasts struggle with at least one; don't let the last two catch you out! Let us know your score in the com...
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