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Balance Wheel

The oscillating wheel at the heart of every mechanical watch.
Hands On: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref 7128/1G Jul 21, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1G

The polarising Cubitus collection is not yet a year old, but Patek Philippe’s newest line of elegant sports watches has expanded in a big way with the Cubitus ref. 7128/1G-001 in a new ‘medium’ 40 mm size that transforms the wearing experience for the better. With summer now in full swing, it’s worth looking at this new Cubitus and considering what it means for the future of the collection. Featuring a silky 18k white gold case and bracelet, the smaller Cubitus practically drapes itself on the wrist, and is probably the most compelling launch yet from the new collection. Also available in rose gold (ref. 7128/1R-001), the new “medium” Cubitus is a luxury sports watch in the true sense of the term, combining everyday comfort and wearability with premium materials and high-quality finishing inside and out. For better or worse, the Cubitus retains several signature elements of the Nautilus such as the embossed sunburst blue dial and lozenge-shaped hands. Initial thoughts When the Cubitus launched last year, it was decried by many spectators as an unworthy successor to the sought-after Nautilus. I freely admit I never had a strong affinity for the Nautilus, which might explain my open mind toward the Cubitus, but I really like the faceted eight-sided crystal and find the overall design about as compelling as that of its esteemed predecessor. That said, I do wish the Cubitus had more of a distinct identity of its own. In the case of the current ref. 7128/1G-001 in 1...

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Catching Up on New Releases from Ming, Wren, Squale, and Doxa Worn & Wound
Doxa Happy Saturday! Dive watch Jul 19, 2025

Catching Up on New Releases from Ming, Wren, Squale, and Doxa

Happy Saturday! Dive watch summer continues – we’ve noticed some fun new divers, all limited editions, come across the transom lately. New water ready releases from Doxa, Wren, and Doxa are profiled below. We’re also spotlight the latest from Ming – while not a diver, it has a stealthiness to it that feels appropriate for the season. Let us know in the comments what you think of these new releases, and what we might have missed. Wren Diver 38 Wren is back with their second watch, the all new Diver 38. The brand, founded by Wrist Enthusiast’s Craig Karger, launched last year with the Diver One, and the new piece is a scaled down, and perhaps more refined take on the original concept. The new version of the watch is smaller, coming in at, you guessed it, 38mm, and is just 10.7mm tall (the original was 41mm in diameter and over 13mm thick). The dial has a sandwich style design, in either a gradient seafoam green or aqua colorway. According to Karger, the goal here was to move Wren into a new category that “balances practicality, comfort, and refined execution.”  The Wren Diver 38 is available in date and no-date versions for $1,595. It runs on a ETA  2892 automatic caliber, and has 200 meters of water resistance. It’s mounted to a flat-link, stainless steel bracelet, and the ceramic bezel insert is fully lumed. Another nice touch: the rotor is skeletonized in the shape of a wren. More information on the Wren Diver 38 can be found on the Wren website here. Mi...

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A New Perspective: Hands-On with the Leica ZM12 Worn & Wound
Junghans ?” question comes up Jul 3, 2025

A New Perspective: Hands-On with the Leica ZM12

There are certain objects that just feel “right” the moment you pick them up-think a favorite camera, a well-worn leather jacket, or the satisfying heft of a perfectly balanced lens. That was my first impression handling the new Leica ZM12: a reassuring, Goldilocks weight in the hand, neither too heavy nor too precious to wear daily. Leica’s latest foray into watchmaking isn’t a camera for your wrist, but in true Leica fashion, it does reward a closer look. Leica, Watches, and the (Inevitable) NOMOS Comparison For those mostly familiar with Leica for their cameras, here’s a bit of background: the company’s roots are a little more “watch” than you’d think. Ernst Leitz, the original founder, was trained as a watchmaker before getting into optics. That bit of DNA is still present, even if Leica doesn’t make a big deal about it. In the past few years, they’ve taken their time bringing watches to market-first with the ZM1 and ZM11, and now the ZM12, which really feels like it brings their whole design philosophy full circle. Now, when most folks see a minimalist German watch, the “Is this a NOMOS?” or “Is this a Junghans?” question comes up immediately. And honestly, I get it. All three have that clean, modernist feel. But the ZM12 does its own thing. The case finishing has more going on, the strap quick-change system is the kind of clever you wish was more common, and the movement is honestly more interesting in person than in press shots. NOM...

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W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Jul 1, 2025

A Keepsake in Time: The Wedding Watch Gift Guide with Hampden

When the wedding invitations start rolling in and the summer air warms with celebration, there’s a timeless question every groom and wedding party must answer: What gifts can truly mark this moment? For the groom and his closest friends, a Hampden watch does more than tell time-it tells stories, turning a single day’s memory into a lifetime keepsake. A Heritage of Craft and Personal Touch Hampden has earned the distinction of America’s oldest family watch brand, now in its fourth-generation of continuous family ownership. Founded in 1922 and rooted in Chicago’s rich horological past, its relaunch this year to mark a century in business balances classic American watchmaking sensibilities with contemporary Swiss precision. While their dials and movements are built to endure decades of wear, it’s Hampden’s mastery of custom caseback engraving that makes each watch singularly meaningful. From precise monograms to heartfelt messages and even sketches or handwritten notes, Hampden’s engraving technology is among the best in the industry-a nod to its historical reputation for innovation and personalization. The post A Keepsake in Time: The Wedding Watch Gift Guide with Hampden appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Review Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Jun 26, 2025

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Review

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” was released back in 2023 and has since been regarded as one of the finest vintage reinterpretations on the market. This mostly for two reasons, the first simply being that it was not a limited edition unlike every iteration dating back to when the line was introduced all the way back in 2015 with the Calibre 18 Telemeter. Second, they nailed the case proportions as well as the irresistibly charming domed sapphire crystal aka ‘Glassbox’. The original Heuer Carrera was the debuted back in 1963 as the brainchild of none other than Jack Heuer. Since then TAG Heuer has become one of the quintessential “chronograph brands” out there but it was the 2023 release of the Carrera Chronograph“Glassbox” that felt like a full-circle moment. The vintage-inspired design and 39mm case size coupled with contemporary finishing and manufacturing capabilities makes for one of the best chronographs on the market. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph "Glassbox" Case The case size here is near-universally praised due to the nice and wearable proportions that balance that old school chronograph aesthetic with modern finishing techniques. Measuring 39mm wide and 13.86 mm thick with a 45.7mm lug-to-lug measurement (with 100 m of water resistance), the Glassbox is a compact package that makes a pretty strong statement. Sure, the original was 36mm and while I believe a re-edition in that case size would be a hit amongst a small enthusiast base (pe...

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Owner’s Review: the Second Hour Mandala Mk3 Worn & Wound
Jun 25, 2025

Owner’s Review: the Second Hour Mandala Mk3

If you were to ask any of my coworkers or friends about my style when it comes to watches, the words “tactical,” “diver,” and “tool” would likely come to mind. It’s no secret that I have an affinity for watches with more utility than just telling time, and a good clicky bezel might be my favorite fidget toy of all time. As someone who has had a preference for black and olive drab colors for years, when I dove into watches, it seemed like black and sometimes blue were the only colors available, especially at the price range I considered spending on a watch. That said, as I’ve learned more about watches and discovered some interesting microbrands making bold and adventurous divers, I also realized that if I wanted something more colorful, I’d have a lot of options if I expanded my reach to non-diver sports watches. With the growing number of stealthy items in my collection, I’ve wanted to add something to my collection that you might describe as “flashy” to balance things out a bit. Working to break this mold that I’ve created for myself, I wound up coming across the Mandala Mk3 by Second Hour Watches, and thought that it might make an interesting addition to my collection of tactical and tool focused pieces. In fact, when I wore this watch home from the office for the first time, my girlfriend immediately remarked, “That isn’t a watch I’d expect you to wear, but I like it,” and that’s exactly the reaction I was hoping for. Before I dive i...

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Kudoke Celebrates 20 Years with the Kudoke 2 SHH Edition SJX Watches
Jun 17, 2025

Kudoke Celebrates 20 Years with the Kudoke 2 SHH Edition

The Kudoke 2 SHH Edition celebrates 20 years of the independent brand founded by husband-and-wife Stefan and Ev Kudoke. A run of 20 pieces exclusive to Singapore retailer Sincere Fine Watches, the edition sports the “flakes” dial finish in a first for the Kudoke 2, which features a distinctive day-night indicator at 12 o’clock. Initial Thoughts Stefan Kudoke was only in his mid-twenties when he founded his eponymous brand. Kudoke’s focus on detailed, graphic hand engraving has helped the brand differentiate itself as more independents, often focusing on movement finishing and guilloche, have sprung up over the years. While the SHH Edition comes at a considerable premium to the regular production Kudoke 2, it’s easily justified by the champagne rosé dial hand engraved with a “flakes” finish. When considering both the quality and quantity of engraving, the SHH Edition maintains the competitive pricing Kudoke is known for. Dial The SHH Edition brings the “flakes” pattern dial, first launched on the Kudoke 3, to the Kudoke 2 for the first time. The dial surface is covered with hundreds of tiny divots resembling flakes, which give the dial a sparkly finish. Each “flake” is painstakingly free-hand engraved, leaving no two dials exactly alike. Similar care is given to the rotating 24-hour disk at 12 o’clock, which has a deeply engraved, rose-gold plated sun on one half, and on the other half,  a moon and stars motif that’s engraved and lumed in blue. T...

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First Look – The New Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar May 21, 2025

First Look – The New Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli

Zenith‘s Triple Calendar model is based on the compact 38mm case of the Chronomaster Original, itself modelled after the 1969 El Primero reference A386. This reference provides a balanced and wearable foundation for a relatively complex movement. Initially launched in stainless steel (2024) and subsequently in rose gold (2025), Zenith has decided that it was […]

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Highlights: A Noteworthy Trio from Patek Philippe at Phillips Geneva SJX Watches
Patek Philippe May 5, 2025

Highlights: A Noteworthy Trio from Patek Philippe at Phillips Geneva

It’s hard to stand out among the 194-lots in Phillips’ incredibly stacked upcoming Geneva auction. The catalog for The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI includes 36 watches from Patek Philippe, including familiar favorites like two ref. 5004s and an assortment of Nautilus and Aquanaut models. But three watches are especially notable. These highlights are led by the only known ref. 3448 “Padellone” perpetual calendar in pink gold – a retailer-signed example at that – followed by a landmark “grand” complication with Hagmann case, and a Beyer-signed pocket watch with a portal to Amsterdam on the back. The auction takes place on May 10 and 11, 2025, at the Hotel President Wilson in Geneva. Lot 74: Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in pink gold signed “Freccero” Patek Philippe’s first self-winding perpetual calendar, the ref. 3448, was primarily made in yellow or white gold – except for this example in pink gold. Besides the unique case material, this also has a retailer-signed dial. In addition, it’s in incredible condition, with unpolished lugs so sharp you could almost cut yourself. It features an early “second series” dial, with a “dimple” style minute track and engraved, enamelled markings. Even though the movement inside the ref. 3448 is one of the most beautiful automatics ever made, the cal. 27-460 doesn’t skate by on pretty privilege. The calibre is technically competent: with a free-sprung gyro-max balance, overcoil hairspring, and Patek Philippe’...

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Record Breaking Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Debuts at Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calibre 89 ref 989J May 2, 2025

Record Breaking Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Debuts at Auction

If you want to own the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing, you’ll have to fight for it at The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, which will see the first production example go under the hammer. The 1.65 mm stature of the ThinKing is even more impressive coming from a small Russian independent watchmaker, considering previous records were set by big Swiss brands ranging from Piaget to Richard Mille. Notably, this is not the first time a landmark release has been trusted to an auction that isn’t linked to a charity. The most famous example of this was the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 (ref. 989J) back in 1989 at Antiquorum’s thematic sale. The ThinKing will be sold in the first session of the auction, which starts on May 10, 2025, at 2 pm. The ThinKing in profile. Image – Phillips Mr Chaykin achieved the record-setting height with clever construction, including a “double balance wheel” system that places an intermediate wheel between the balance and escapement, allowing both to sit on the same plane. Another notable technical feature is a barrel that is open on both sides, and no thicker than the mainspring itself. And unlike most serially-produced Konstantin Chaykin watches, each ThinKing is made, finished, and assembled by Mr Chaykin himself. Wearability is enhanced by the bolt-on protective shroud in titanium christened “PalanKing”. This increases the height to 5.4 mm, but adds key-less setting and winding, and automatic winding by a...

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Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Apr 21, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001

Patek Philippe came to Watches & Wonders 2025 with a deep bench of strong new releases, but for fans of the classic Calatrava, the standout was without question the Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001. It’s an easy watch to love, with good proportions, a hefty 38 mm platinum case, a lively “salmon” dial, and is powered by the brand’s latest generation movement. Though the brand was arguably overshadowed this year by its suburban Geneva neighbors Rolex and Vacheron Constantin, at lower and higher ends of the price spectrum, respectively, Patek Philippe demonstrated its ability to deliver in every category, from simple dress and sport watches to mid and high complications. Initial thoughts In February 2017 I was asked what I wished to see from Baselworld that year. I said I’d like to see a successor to the ref. 5196 with a case-filling movement and a large balance. Eight years later, Patek Philippe delivered more or less exactly what I imagined, keeping the proportions and details of the classic Calatrava with a more advanced movement than the outdated cal. 215 that was used at the time. So in a sense, this watch was made for me.  But I had not anticipated a “salmon” dial. Officially labelled “rose-gilt opaline” by Patek Philippe, such dials have become popular among collectors, and are now a staple across the Patek Philippe collection. Naturally, a vivid colour like this helps an otherwise simple watch stand out, but personally I look forward to more toned down iter...

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W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Apr 17, 2025

Designing the Future of the Watch Purchasing Experience – Meet Quaid Walker of Bezel

For those of you haven’t come across Bezel just yet, we’re happy to introduce you. Bezel is a trusted marketplace for buying or selling your next high-end watch. They have set out to create a platform that’s way less intimidating than anything else we’ve seen out there and strives to build trust with each and every transaction. We had the chance to speak with Bezel’s Co-Founder & CEO, Quaid Walker. A Product Designer, by trade and schooling, Quaid has set out to personally design a user experience that takes the fear and apprehension out of the purchasing process, while creating a digital environment that helps buyers feel empowered, educated, and enlightened.  Prior to this interview, we were given a deep dive tour of the Bezel app. There’s an undeniable amount of design and thoughtfulness woven into the experience, which the team here at Worn & Wound was certainly impressed by. With intuitive and compelling features like free in-house authentication with every purchase, personal concierge service, and fully-insured overnight shipping, Quaid says that he and the team at Bezel are out to push the watch industry forward. If you’re in the mode of seeking either your first or your next high-end watch, we’d say please continue reading this interview with Quaid, download the app, and decide for yourself.  The post Designing the Future of the Watch Purchasing Experience – Meet Quaid Walker of Bezel appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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First Impressions of the New A. Lange & Söhne Novelties Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 9, 2025

First Impressions of the New A. Lange & Söhne Novelties

A. Lange & Söhne never does half-measures, especially at Watches & Wonders. For 2025, they announced three new models, but a total of four watches: the Saxonia Minute Repeater Perpetual, the Honey Gold Odysseus, and the 1815 in 34mm in rose and white gold. So, one super complicated piece with a ton of features. One rare piece in an exceptional presentation. And two sublimely proportioned everyday watches (in ALS terms). While all were exceptional, the latter of the three left the biggest impression, despite being the smallest in stature.  With a name like Minute Repeater Perpetual, there’s not much mystery about what this watch does, but in true Lange fashion, it’s the elegance with which it does it that’s so special. And, naturally, we have to start with movement. The new caliber L122.2 consists of 640 parts and is meticulously finished to the standards one expects from Lange. In somewhat of a departure from their norm, the untreated Glashütte ¾ plate features a frosted finish instead of Glashütte ribbing. Though the result might appear more straightforward, we were told it makes assembly more complicated, and the resulting even surface puts more attention on the governor, black polished hammers, and encircling gongs, not to mention the free-hand engraved balance cock. It does not just look impressive, however, as there are some clever mechanical tricks at play, too, namely regarding the repeater. The typical sequence of chimes includes first single chimes per ...

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Bremont Debuts their Revamped Pilot Watches in the Altitude Line Worn & Wound
Bremont Debuts their Revamped Pilot Apr 2, 2025

Bremont Debuts their Revamped Pilot Watches in the Altitude Line

Last year was, no matter how you look at it, a transformational one for Bremont. Nowhere was this more obvious than at Watches & Wonders 2024, where the English brand rolled into Palexpo with a new CEO, new watches, and an entirely new brand identity. To say they caused a stir would be an understatement, and the brand’s radical reinvention was one of the prevailing narratives in the show’s aftermath. Still, amidst all the discourse and new collections, one key Bremont tentpole went undisturbed last year - but no longer. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2025, Bremont is introducing an updated offering of pilot’s watches, bringing what is arguably Bremont’s most important collection of watches in line with the rest of the new Bremont catalog. The updated Altitude lineup is made up of three new models: The Altitude 39 Date, the Altitude Chronograph GMT, and the Altitude MB Meteor (a successor to the MBII), and offers the best balance so far between a classic Bremont feel and the brand’s updated identity. There’s also a perpetual calendar to be discussed, but that’s for another time. Notably, each of the new watches retains Bremont’s hallmark Trip-Tick case, which was notably omitted from last year’s launches. Still, there is no confusing these for old-school Bremont. The updated Altitude collection boasts a slimmer look, with thinner lugs and bezels, and the watches each adopt a near-monochromatic colorway, dropping some of the colorful flourishes Bremont has of...

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Catching The Blues With A New Trio Of Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronographs Fratello
Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronographs If Apr 2, 2025

Catching The Blues With A New Trio Of Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronographs

If you are on the hunt for a humble, under-the-radar, slow-release charmer of a watch, feel free to skip this article. Zenith gets all up in our faces at this year’s Watches and Wonders with a 160th-anniversary trio of blue ceramic chronographs. Subtle blue? Nope, not quite. Say what you will, but at least this […] Visit Catching The Blues With A New Trio Of Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronographs to read the full article.

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Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Geometry Black Worn & Wound
Schwarz Etienne Introduces Mar 25, 2025

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Geometry Black

In 2023, Schwarz Etienne debuted the Geometry line of watches. With its deconstructed dial, this collection has mixed technical precision and artistic license to create a set of watches that show that going a little avant-garde can have a huge pay-off. Right in time for Watches and Wonders, the Swiss house has released the final addition to their Geometry line, the Geometry Black.  Previous iterations of the Geometry line have included a salmon and silver dial option, both accentuating the ripples of guilloché in alternative patterns, including a variety of finishes: fluted lines, azuré, clous de Paris and fine sandblasted finishes. Here, the Geometry Black is a bit more subtle, but nonetheless visually appealing. The black colorway is a grown-up alternative to previous models that feels more appropriate for everyday wear, or for more formal occasions, without sacrificing the impressive technical expertise needed to build a watch as balanced as this one. Apart from the dial, Schwarz Etienne made the right decision in keeping the rest of the watch fairly spartan. Other than the lacine-style hands and sandblasted anthracite subdial, there aren’t a lot of bells and whistles – or even numerals, for that matter – to distract from the real star of the show. Coming in a 39mm stainless steel case and paired with a patinated black leather strap, I wouldn’t say this watch is simple but it’s minimal in the best way possible. Like previous references in the collection, th...

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Hands On Review Of The Cartier Panthère de Cartier WatchAdvice
Cartier Panthère de Cartier I Mar 19, 2025

Hands On Review Of The Cartier Panthère de Cartier

I took the Panthère de Cartier in 18K yellow gold for review, and from the moment I held it, the watch’s elegance and refinement were undeniable. Cartier has once again proven that true luxury isn’t about complexity—it’s about timeless design, effortless wearability, and an unmistakable presence on the wrist. What We Love: The timepiece has a well-balanced design that sits elegantly on the wrist. The white dial perfectly complements the gold case, bezel and bracelet. The gold model, as expected, gives a more luxury appeal compared to the other variants of the timepiece and has a shine that is hard to take your eyes away from! What We Don’t: Lack of micro-adjustment on the bracelet for a better snug fit. Due to the highly polished finish of the gold, the timepiece is prone to scratching While the gold is stunning on the wrist, it doesn’t offer the same versatility as the steel for everyday wear. Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Cartier is renowned for crafting timepieces that strike the perfect balance between subtle elegance and distinctive flair, allowing them to stand out without being overtly flashy. The brand’s mastery lies in its use of unconventional shapes and design elements that enhance a watch’s character without overpowering its essence. The Panthère de Cartier is a perfect example of this philosophy—its design is simple and refined, yet beneath its understated appearance...

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Anoma Debuts the A1 Slate Worn & Wound
Mar 6, 2025

Anoma Debuts the A1 Slate

In a monochrome, modernist twist on the recently released A1 First Series, London upstart brand Anoma-short for Anomaly- has announced its followup, the appropriately named A1 Slate. Sharing the same smooth triangular shape with rounded angles and an offset face, the A1 Slate was similarly inspired by a free-form table designed  by Charlotte Perriand in the 1950s, and Constantin  Brâncuși’s modernist sculptures. The new gray, black, and white color scheme, however, promises a more subtle take on the shape that aligns more with the third inspiration-river stones, smoothed over time by passing water.  The 316L stainless steel triangular case is likely the first detail on the A1, whether the First Series or the Slate, that an observer will notice. Measuring in at 30mm x 38mm (though Anoma notes that the shape and lack of lugs make the fit closer to 37mm), the case is mirror-polished, and meant to refract and bend light at every angle. Without having the watch on hand, I can’t vouch for this effect, but Worn & Wound’s own Zach Weiss reviewed the A1 First Series back in January 2024 and attested to the charm of the watch’s styling and finish. The vertically-brushed dial itself stands out against the case, with individually-engraved contrasting inner triangles coated with three layers of glossy black lacquer. Leaf hour and minute hands adorn the dial, with the Anoma logo below the centerpoint. A cleverly-situated cross with lines at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clo...

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Shanghai Watches and the Birth of the Chinese Watch Industry Two Broke Watch Snobs
Feb 23, 2025

Shanghai Watches and the Birth of the Chinese Watch Industry

In watch culture today, “tool watches” are those meant for physical activity; the gym, swimming, scaling Mount Everest, setting new freediving records – you know, the things we all do, all the time. In reality, every watch is a tool, regardless of its water resistance rating or its ability to survive a drop from a three-story building. Organizing human activity is a major logistical challenge, and many require timing and coordination, though the degree to which that’s true varies. Timing military operations to achieve maximum pressure on the objective needs a little bit more coordination than meeting with some friends for lunch across town (though that may depend on the friend group).

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Frederique Constant Partners with Watch Angels on a Revamped Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Partners Feb 19, 2025

Frederique Constant Partners with Watch Angels on a Revamped Worldtimer

Over the last several years we’ve seen all kinds of models pop up for the creation and distribution of limited edition watches. It’s becoming more and more clear that this most recent period in watch enthusiast history will almost certainly be known as the “Limited Edition Boom,” or something along those lines. Look at the pages of any watch media website, including this one, and you’ll find that news items about various LEs and collaborations dominate the conversation, so it’s no wonder that a cottage industry has sprung up to develop these kinds of watches specifically. Watch Angels is one such platform seeking to provide an ecosystem for brands (mostly independent) to create limited edition versions of watches that are funded by the eventual purchasers. It’s like the old souscription model crossed with Kickstater, with the main difference between Watch Angels and typical crowdfunding mechanisms being that these projects are largely one-offs from already established brands, and not debut collections from a start-up enterprise.  Frederique Constant, certainly not a brand most observers would expect to dabble in a crowdfunding project, is the latest to partner with Watch Angels on a new limited edition release. The Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture seen here is a new and slightly more refined spin on a signature Frederique Constant complication. They’ve been making some version of this watch since 2012 (remember their 10th anniversary worldtimer t...

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Introducing – Seconde/Seconde Adds Safety to the Perrelet Turbine Monochrome
Feb 18, 2025

Introducing – Seconde/Seconde Adds Safety to the Perrelet Turbine

Perrelet, a member of the Festina Group (since 2004), which owns movement manufacturer Soprod, traces its roots back to 1777. Today, the brand is best known for its Turbine collection, which was first introduced in 2009. These distinctive timepieces feature an oscillating weight on the back and a series of turbine blades on the front that spin freely with wrist movement, revealing the dial beneath. The dynamic Turbine dials provide a canvas for creativity, and over the years, Perrelet has embraced experimentation with models like the Splash, Hypnotic, Royal Flush, Rainbow, Erotica, and Skull. The brand's latest partnership with seconde/seconde pushes the whimsy even further, bringing the playful "Safety First" concept to life on the dial.

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A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGH027 We reached Feb 3, 2025

A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027

We reached the point long ago where even the most dedicated Grand Seiko fans and collectors could be expected to keep up with the many, many different dial textures. Intricate textured dials are, at least as much as their famous Zaratsu polishing technique and fantastic family of movements, the thing that Grand Seiko has become most well known for during these last several years that have seen the brand grow at an extraordinary pace. I know for me personally, it’s all a little overwhelming, and while I love seeing all of the new textures and colors pop in watches as the collection grows, I remain biased toward one in particular that caught my eye at the beginning of my own interest in the brand. The first Grand Seiko I ever owned had a black “Mt. Iwate” textured dial, and for me it’s still the standard by which I judge all of the others against. That Mt. Iwate texture, to me, is just the right balance of eye catching and incredibly subtle – it can’t be detected at every angle, which is one of my favorite things about it. It’s also historically taken something of a backseat to the “Snowflake” and “Birch” textures, so it appeals to my natural tendency to root for the underdog.  Given my longstanding appreciation for the Mt. Iwate dial, I was happy to see news of the latest Grand Seiko release, the SLGH027, which brings a tweaked version of the Mt. Iwate texture to the Evolution 9 series of watches. The new texture, which appears to have thicker “ridg...

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Hands On: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan Launched Jan 31, 2025

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan

Launched in late 2023, the Tourbillon Cardan marked Greubel Forsey’s pivot to more classical watchmaking, away from the sports watches that defined it for several years. Staying true to its speciality, the Tourbillon Cardan is a fancy tourbillon: it’s equipped with an inclined, high-speed tourbillon making one revolution every 16 seconds, with the tourbillon suspended in a pair of cardan, also as a universal joint or gimbal, similar to the suspension used in marine chronometers. The set-up swivels the tourbillon back and forth as the carriage makes it 16-second rotation, which theoretically optimises the position of the balance wheel while the watch is on the wrist. Initial thoughts The Tourbillon Cardan is classic Greubel Forsey in many ways, bringing to mind the various exotic tourbillons the brand has released over the years. The watch is big, huge in fact, but stands out with engaging visuals thanks to the multiple motions of the gimballed tourbillon. There’s a lot to see on the open dial, which is not only complex and dynamic but also offers an appealing depth. The depth is a consequence of the thickness of the watch, which is substantial – over 18 mm high with the crystal, necessary to accommodate the tourbillon. Despite the size, the watch is lightweight as the case is titanium, but it still feels chunky but that’s almost expected for a Greubel Forsey. The compact Nano Foudroyante EWT, on the other hand, is atypical of the brand. Though the colours are mon...

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