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Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur

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Manufacture vs Etablisseur

The structural difference between brands that make their own movements (manufactures) and those that buy them (etablisseurs).

Chopard Alpine Eagle: A Cool - And Ethical - Sports Casual Watch Quill & Pad
Chopard Alpine Eagle Nov 21, 2019

Chopard Alpine Eagle: A Cool - And Ethical - Sports Casual Watch

Stainless steel case, integrated bracelet in the same material, manufacture movement, and a blue dial: these are the ingredients for today's watches that people are willing to spend a significant premium to obtain. For many, this was also the first thought that went through heads when Chopard recently launched its new blue-dial, stainless steel, sporty watch, the Alpine Eagle. Martin Green looks beyond that pretty blue face after wearing it for a week and gives us his thoughts.

First Look - Frederique Constant Dresses Its Attainable Perpetual Calendar in Burgundy Monochrome
Frederique Constant Dresses 3 days ago

First Look - Frederique Constant Dresses Its Attainable Perpetual Calendar in Burgundy

Frederique Constant is known to make traditionally expensive watchmaking complications more accessible. Its Manufacture Perpetual Calendar, first introduced in 2016, was a QP priced well below that of many established competitors. In 2025, the watch received an update: a more refined 40mm case and a revised movement, with a power reserve extended to 72 hours. […]

SJX Podcast: Time for Quartz? SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s new Gondolo “Ladies Oct 13, 2026

SJX Podcast: Time for Quartz?

A Cartier Cheich selling for US$3.38 million has put quartz in the spotlight, but does the huge result mean much for the broader market? On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, we discuss the appeal of unusual Cartier shapes and why Patek Philippe’s new Gondolo “Ladies First” makes a practical case for quartz at the high end. Brandon also shares impressions from a visit to Manufacture La Joux-Perret, where solar quartz calibres account for a quarter of annual movement production. Despite the Citizen-owned manufacture’s Japanese technical foundations, these calibres are almost entirely Swiss-made, with more hands-on assembly than one might expect. We also discuss A. Lange & Söhne’s upcoming Singapore exhibition, dedicated to chronographs and classic cars. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Just Because - Konstantin Chaykin Turns Cufflinks into a Mechanical Calendar Monochrome
Konstantin Chaykin Turns Cufflinks into Oct 12, 2026

Just Because - Konstantin Chaykin Turns Cufflinks into a Mechanical Calendar

For most people, cufflinks keep a shirt cuff in place and often add a little personality to an otherwise formal outfit. Jewellers offer cufflinks with genuine watch movements, and watchmakers have also been known to manufacture cufflinks, though more often as an added accessory than a functional piece. Indie watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin saw an opportunity […]

Introducing - Frederique Constant Presents the 2026 Edition of The Elements Collection Monochrome
Frederique Constant Presents Oct 6, 2026

Introducing - Frederique Constant Presents the 2026 Edition of The Elements Collection

Frederique Constant has released the 2026 edition of The Elements Collection, an annual collector’s box set comprising three timepieces, each distinguished by a rare mineral dial. Presented in steel cases from the Classic collection and powered by manufacture movements, the Moonphase Date with a black onyx dial, the Tourbillon with a heliotrope dial, and the […]

First Look - Armin Strom Applies the Midas Touch to the New Tribute³ Au750 Monochrome
Armin Strom Applies Oct 2, 2026

First Look - Armin Strom Applies the Midas Touch to the New Tribute³ Au750

Armin Strom has conquered the indie watchmaking scene with its combination of mechanical inventiveness and striking asymmetric displays. As a fully integrated manufacture, Armin Strom can bring its wildest mechanical dreams to life, including its groundbreaking mastery of resonance. Knowing that not everyone can invest in its hyper-complex Resonance and Masterpiece models, Armin Strom created […]

Introducing - The Two Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater 5531G Limited Edition Milano 2026 Monochrome
Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater Oct 1, 2026

Introducing - The Two Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater 5531G Limited Edition Milano 2026

Among the special editions revealed for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milan 2026 are two variants of the reference 5531, first introduced in 2017 and since occupying a particular place in the modern collection. The 5531 brought together two complications strongly associated with the manufacture: the World Time display, rooted in the Louis Cottier tradition, […]

Introducing - Moritz Grossmann Injects a Contemporary Air into the Benu Power Reserve Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Injects Sep 30, 2026

Introducing - Moritz Grossmann Injects a Contemporary Air into the Benu Power Reserve

Bearing the name of one of the founding fathers of 19th-century German watchmaking, Moritz Grossmann is today an independent high-end Glashütte watch manufacture producing low-volume, hand-finished pieces. Marking the bicentennial of the founder’s birth, Moritz Grossmann presents two more contemporary, dark-themed versions of the elegant Benu Power Reserve. The Benu was the first watch to […]

Introducing - Breguet Updates its Marine 5517 and Marine Chronograph 5527 with More Refined Dials Monochrome
Breguet Updates Sep 24, 2026

Introducing - Breguet Updates its Marine 5517 and Marine Chronograph 5527 with More Refined Dials

While Breguet is mostly known for its classic watches adorned with guiloché dials and the numerous inventions of its founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, the venerable manufacture nevertheless holds two sportier collections: one intended for aviation (the Type XX), the other for naval exploration (the Marine). And both are actually inspired by important historical moments in the […]

Flieger Or Dresser: Which Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Style? Fratello
Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Sep 24, 2026

Flieger Or Dresser: Which Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Style?

Just before summer, Glashütte Original invited us to its manufacture in eastern Germany. It was a great way for me to get to know the brand a little better. But the most important reason for the visit was the presentation of a few new releases. Jorg will cover the new Seventies collection in a separate […] Visit Flieger Or Dresser: Which Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Style? to read the full article.

First Look - Frederique Constant x French Foreign Legion, Two Limited Editions to Celebrate the Elite Unit Monochrome
Frederique Constant x French Foreign Legion Sep 23, 2026

First Look - Frederique Constant x French Foreign Legion, Two Limited Editions to Celebrate the Elite Unit

Founded in Geneva in 1988, Frederique Constant is now a globally respected name in watchmaking, offering classic designs at reasonable prices, with a growing portfolio of complications developed and assembled at its Plan-les-Ouates manufacture. Part of the Citizen Group since 2016, the brand was created by Peter Stas, who left his native Netherlands for Switzerland, […]

First Look - The Lang & Heyne Friedrich III, Now with a Power Reserve Indication (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Lang & Heyne Friedrich III Now Sep 21, 2026

First Look - The Lang & Heyne Friedrich III, Now with a Power Reserve Indication (Incl. Video)

Lang & Heyne has practised the Saxon approach to independent watchmaking since 2001, working near Dresden and offering watches that combine classical German design with highly elaborate hand-finishing. The manufacture names its collections after figures from the House of Wettin, the Saxon dynasty with an 800-year history in the region. The Friedrich III, originally introduced more […]

Hands-on - The Tudor Northflag, an Improved Successor to the North Flag, now with GMT Function Monochrome
Tudor Northflag Sep 18, 2026

Hands-on - The Tudor Northflag, an Improved Successor to the North Flag, now with GMT Function

First presented in 2015, the Tudor North Flag was an important watch for the brand. It introduced a new design, drawing on the angular, exploration-inspired character of the 1970s Ranger II, but its real significance was mechanical: it was the first Tudor fitted with a manufacture movement (calibre MT5621), itself the first Tudor movement visible […]

Introducing: Blancpain Celebrates The 70th Anniversary Of The Ladybird Collection With The Mini "Lady B" Revival Hodinkee
Blancpain Celebrates Sep 17, 2026

Introducing: Blancpain Celebrates The 70th Anniversary Of The Ladybird Collection With The Mini "Lady B" Revival

What We Know In 1932, a 36-year-old woman took a massive gamble early in her career at Blancpain. Betty Fiechter, who had worked for the brand since she was 16, faced a dilemma after the sudden death of the brand's owner, Frederic-Emile Blancpain. Together with commercial director Andre Leal, she helped secure loans to buy the company, even navigating the need to rename the manufacture because the Swiss government prevented anyone but someone with that name from using Blancpain. Fiechter would eventually mentor her nephew, Jean-Jacques Fiechter, and together they would inaugurate two of the brand's most successful icons: the Fifty Fathoms and the Ladybird. The original Ladybird Bullet The launch of the Ladybird in 1956 was a big deal, not just because a woman led a manufacturer in an era when women couldn't even vote in Switzerland. Inside the original Ladybird "Bullet" was the R55, the smallest round mechanical movement, and one with extra durability, with a fifth wheel to limit the force on the escapement and a shock protector on the balance wheel. It remains the smallest round mechanical movement to this day. To honor that watch, Fiechter, and the 70th anniversary of the Ladybird, Blancpain is releasing a new Lady B (for bullet, I'm sure, but also Betty and, according to the brand, bijou or "jewel") with very tiny dimensions. The watch measures a tiny 19mm by 13.2mm in either stainless steel or 18k red gold, with a total volume of only 2.9 cm³. Despite its size, it has...

Introducing - The new Glashütte Original 70s Collection, a Reworked Take on the Integrated Sports Watch Monochrome
Glashütte Original 70s Collection Sep 16, 2026

Introducing - The new Glashütte Original 70s Collection, a Reworked Take on the Integrated Sports Watch

While Glashütte Original‘s Seventies collection has become associated with its bold, square-shaped chronographs, the German manufacture also once offered Seventies Panaroma Date models without the chronograph function. Revisiting the decade with a substantially reworked watch, the brand returns to that time-and-date simplicity and presents the new 70s collection of integrated sports watches, alongside the existing […]

The Formex Aria Proves The Phrase “Don’t Knock It ‘Til You Try It” Fratello
Formex Aria Proves Sep 16, 2026

The Formex Aria Proves The Phrase “Don’t Knock It ‘Til You Try It”

Without a doubt, one of the most talked-about recent releases is the Formex Aria Manufacture Chronometer, or simply Aria, as most people will refer to it. After I wrote the introductory article based on the press info, I was curious to learn more. While the design didn’t necessarily make me swoon, I know Formex well […] Visit The Formex Aria Proves The Phrase “Don’t Knock It ‘Til You Try It” to read the full article.

Introducing - The Latest Patria from Tutima; Grade 5 Titanium meets 18k Gold Monochrome
Tutima Sep 10, 2026

Introducing - The Latest Patria from Tutima; Grade 5 Titanium meets 18k Gold

While Tutima gained popularity thanks to its purposeful pilot watches, aviation-themed chronographs and robust adventure-driven collections, one of the brand’s lineups certainly stands apart from the rest and shouldn’t go unnoticed. A tribute to the German school of watchmaking and the manufacture’s roots, the Patria collection celebrates classic designs and in-house watchmaking, done the Glashütte way. Elegant, […]

Hands On With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date Sep 9, 2026

Hands On With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Control Chronometre collection is a hit. Now we put the Date Power Reserve model under the microscope… What We Love Great integrated bracelet design, & a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre Super comfortable on the wrist  Bridges both sports and dress watch genres easily What We Don’t No lume, so a better watch for day wear vs an all-around sports watch The bezel could be larger or have more detailing for greater balance Need a corrector tool to change the date, so it isn’t easy to do when out and about. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 Mario has had his say on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date, but now it’s my turn, and for this review, I’m getting hands-on with the Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve. Yes, the name is a mouthful, but that is ok, I’ll forgive Jaeger-LeCoultre as this is (spoiler alert) a fantastic watch that I really had a hard time faulting. Since seeing the full collection first-hand at Watches & Wonders this year, I had been keen on trying them for a longer-term review. I do love the rose gold variants, but the sensible part of me thought it best to give the steel version a try, as this is probably the more everyday-wearing watch, and design-wise, sits nicely between the date model and the perpetual calendar. First Impressions I’ll say this. My first impressions of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomet...

First Look - Christiaan van der Klaauw Goes Openworked with the new Planetarium Skeleton Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw Goes Openworked Sep 8, 2026

First Look - Christiaan van der Klaauw Goes Openworked with the new Planetarium Skeleton

Christiaan van der Klaauw has been making mechanical astronomical watches since the 1990s, and the Planetarium is the defining complication of the Dutch manufacture. The first Planetarium wristwatch appeared in 1999 and featured what remains the world’s smallest mechanical planetarium. The complication has since been interpreted in numerous ways, most recently including the Grand Planetarium […]