Hodinkee
Introducing: The Bremont MB Savanna In Titanium
Cleared for ejection.
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Eric Giroud
Architect-trained Geneva designer behind MB&F\'s entire HM and LM series, plus Bovet, Manufacture Royale, Greubel Forsey commissions.
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MB&F HM12 The Guardian: The Robot Watch That Actually Transforms
MB&F's twelfth Horological Machine is a flying-tourbillon wristwatch that docks inside a 15 kg, nearly 400 mm tall transforming robot companion, and only 36 will ever exist
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Introducing: Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Models In 36mm And 39mm (Live Pics)
What We Know Last September, Girard-Perregaux released the Laureato Fifty, a 200-piece limited edition marking the collection's 50th anniversary. Continuing to build on that, the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture has announced four new Laureato references today, in 36mm and 39mm sizes. All four share the same octagonal case and GP4800 movement—the 39mm options are a rose gold-toned 18k dial with Clous de Paris motif and date display, and a deep blue in-house enamel dial over the same pattern. The 36mm gets the same rose gold-toned dial minus the date, and a silver-toned Clous de Paris dial with a gem-set bezel carrying 64 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 0.55 carats. Everything comes on a steel integrated bracelet with a triple-folding clasp and 4mm micro-adjustment. Water resistance is 150 meters. The GP4800, first introduced last year, is an automatic movement running at 4 Hz with a 60-hour power reserve. Its architecture draws from GP's Three Bridges lineage, with the balance bridge crafted in rose gold. All four are available now, with pricing as follows: the 39mm blue enamel is $24,500; the 39mm rose gold-toned dial is $23,100; the 36mm rose gold-toned dial is $23,100; and the 36mm diamond-set is $24,200. What We Think When I covered the Laureato Fifty last October, my main critique was that GP had only offered a grey dial. That's now been addressed, with the brand offering a variety of options. Another improvement worth noting: the two-tone bracelet has be...
Fratello
The Rolex Datejust With Green Ombré Lacquer Dials Proves Once More Why The 36mm Form Reigns Supreme
One of the Rolex novelties at Watches and Wonders 2026 was the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 with a green ombré lacquer dial (ref. 126334). Essentially, it is a new dial variant for the largest Datejusts in The Crown’s collection. However, it’s not just a new color but also part of a series of watches marking […] Visit The Rolex Datejust With Green Ombré Lacquer Dials Proves Once More Why The 36mm Form Reigns Supreme to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Audemars Piguet Announces New Royal Oak Offshore Chronographs In Both 42mm and 37mm
What We Know Big, bold, and unapologetically brash, the Royal Oak Offshore has never been the watch for everyone. But with three fresh colorways for 42mm chronographs in steel and titanium, and a triumvirate of brand-new 37mm models in titanium and pink gold, the vaunted watchmaker from Le Brassus is giving us a few more reasons to consider its dedicated diver. There are three new 42mm models in three new color combinations, all featuring luminescent white 'bathtub' style hands, Arabic numeral hour markers in 18 carat gold, a flyback chronograph with hour, minute, and second counters, and a tachymeter scale rehaut inner bezel and date window at 3 o'clock. First up, the only new titanium model at this size, it features a dark grey méga tapisserie dial with dark grey and silver-toned counters with yellow and turquoise accents. The Arabic numeral hour markers are turquoise while the yellow chronograph hand matches the counter hands at 9 and 12 o'clock with a white seconds hand at 6 o'clock. Sections of the tachymeter scale are printed in yellow and white, while the AP logo in white sits just left of the date window. The silver hour and minute chronograph counters are accented in turquoise and grey. The case is 15.3mm thick and features a sapphire open caseback, a black-rubber and titanium screw-down crown with contrasting yellow and black rubber push pieces, and boasts water resistance of 100 meters. The new titanium Offshore chronograph comes on an interchangeable dark ...
Worn & Wound
Awake Introduces the Son Mài Guilloché Main Collection
The evolution of Awake has been fascinating to observe over the last few years. From high concept blockchain and space inspired sports watches, the brand took a left turn into traditional craft techniques, and is now working to refine those ideas further in their latest collection. The new Son Mài Guilloché Main Collection combines the Son Mai lacquer techniques the brand has employed in previous collections with evocative, hand-applied guilloche work. These new watches also have updates to the case and dial that we imagine will carry through to further Awake releases in the pipeline. I had a chance to see these watches in person at Chronopolis in Geneva earlier this year, and then again at the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, and each time I came away very impressed with the dial work, which is clearly the chief selling point here. To summarize, these dials use the same “Son Mai” lacquer technique, perfected by artisans in Vietnam, that we saw the brand debut in 2024. The resulting bold, vibrant colors really carry these watches and give a very old practice a lot of modern charm. For the new collection, Awake has added guilloche to the mix. Before the lacquer finish is applied, each dial has a meticulously applied guilloche pattern engraved into the dial by traditional rose and straight line engines by craftspeople in Italy. When the lacquer finish is added later, it accentuates the guilloche in a dramatic way, highlighting the depth of the engraving and the ri...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Serica Ref. 7505 Field Chronometer, 35mm of Genuine Ruggedness
There’s a tendency, somewhat natural and hard to counteract, to think that a watch needs to be large and heavy to be robust. This, however, is a rather contemporary perception, as vintage watches, even the most rugged of them all, were often sized under 36mm – think, for instance, about the members of the Dirty […]
Worn & Wound
My 1968 Hamilton Accumatic A-203: Honoring A Legacy In 14K Gold
For many, an interest in horology is sparked by inheriting a wristwatch or pocket watch from a relative. While my fascination with the hobby instead stems from a spur-of-the-moment purchase at a flea market, I’ve been lucky enough to inherit several timepieces that will always be part of my collection and family. Recently, my grandfather, Raymond Harter, passed away at the age of 81. After his passing, my initial feelings and reaction, of course, centered around the familial sphere––taking time with loved ones to grieve and remember the times we had spent together over the years. As a watch collector, however, there was a part of me that felt he never really left. You see, I had received a 1968 Hamilton Accumatic A-203 with a solid 14K gold case from him years ago, which his father had purchased brand new and passed down to him. Even though we couldn’t chat about the New York Giants and watch SportsCenter together anymore, this Accumatic symbolized to me that those memories and that legacy aren’t going away anytime soon. I had researched this model when I first received it, and was only able to locate one or two blogs about it. There’s truly no better time than now to take a deep dive into the A-203 and learn about the watch that my family will cherish for generations to come. A Brief History of the Hamilton Accumatic Line and the A-203 The Accumatic line was a staple of Hamilton watchmaking for almost two decades, beginning production in 1956 and ceasing by 19...
Monochrome
First Look – The New, Compact 36mm A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar
The Saxonia Annual Calendar is a relatively young but important member of A. Lange & Söhne’s repertoire. Launched in 2010 as an “everyday” complication, the annual calendar offers a more practical, slightly less complex alternative to the brand’s high-end perpetual calendars while maintaining Lange’s classic Saxon aesthetics. Initially available in 38.5mm cases – but discontinued […]
Fratello
Introducing: The 1.65mm-Thin Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery - Is It The Slimmest Mechanical Watch In The World?
Do you remember the ThinKing, the ultra-thin, in-house, one-of-a-kind watch with a mere 1.65mm profile that surprised everybody in 2024? Piaget and Bvlgari were locked in battle to come up with the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, Richard Mille joined the fight, and then, out of the blue, Konstantin Chaykin presented the ThinKing. The watch never […] Visit Introducing: The 1.65mm-Thin Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery - Is It The Slimmest Mechanical Watch In The World? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – Awake Son Mai Silver Leaf “Atlantis Blue”
Awake, the young Parisian-based indie brand founded by Lilian Thibault in 2019, is a keen advocate of sustainability and fosters an eco-friendly approach to watchmaking. Introduced in 2024, Awake’s Son Mai collection is a fitting spokesperson for the brand’s philosophy and features handcrafted lacquered dials created by Vietnamese artisans. Combining minimalist design to highlight the […]
SJX Watches
Stellar Small Seconds: Orient Star M45 F7
Orient Star doubles down on dress watches with the dignified M45 F7 Small Seconds in three new colours inspired by the night sky. With its small seconds layout, power reserve indicator, no-date format, and sub-40 mm case size, the M45 is clearly targeting the enthusiast market. Initial thoughts While more casual and “sporty” watches have been the foundation of the watch market for decades, Orient, and its upscale sibling Orient Star, are arguably known best for its more formally coded watches, such as the entry-level Orient Bambino. From there, Orient Star’s M45 collection represents a tempting upgrade, featuring a slew of refinements inside and out that make it a good value proposition despite the higher price. Beyond the technical specifications, the M45 F7 Small Seconds also reflects Orient Star’s ongoing effort to carve out a distinct identity within the broader Japanese watch landscape. While brand has long been appreciated for delivering strong value, the M45 line shows a growing confidence in formal watches, which is needed given the fierce competition from micro-brands in the sports watch segment at the same price point. Visually, the watch could benefit from being even smaller, as the small seconds sub-dial is too close to the centre of the dial, but that is true of many, if not most, of its (few) competitors in this price segment that offer a small seconds format. Collectors have come accept this as a normal trade-off of contemporary watches that use hist...
Fratello
Finding My Seiko UFO 6138: A Collector’s Lesson In Humility, Patience, And Rediscovery
Vintage Seiko chronographs have a way of pulling you in. They’re mechanically ambitious, unapologetically ’70s, and just rough enough around the edges to feel honest. Spend enough time around references powered by the 6138 and 6139 calibers, and you’ll understand why so many collectors fall hard for them. My journey started in 2019 while stationed […] Visit Finding My Seiko UFO 6138: A Collector’s Lesson In Humility, Patience, And Rediscovery to read the full article.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger (39mm) Vs. Longines Spirit Pilot
Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Last year, Tudor added a new 36mm size and a beige-dial option to its entry-level Ranger lineup. In November, we put it up against the Christopher Ward C65 Dune, and the Tudor won by quite a big margin. You could say it was an unfair match, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger (39mm) Vs. Longines Spirit Pilot to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Orient Star’s M34 F8 Skeleton is Space-Age Tech
Orient Star marks a milestone with the M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding 75th Anniversary, combining the brand’s technically adept, manually wound skeleton calibre with a novel, laser-engraved meteorite pattern in a maximalist open-worked package. The M34 F8 Skeleton also stands out for the tech inside the mechanical movement: proprietary silicon escape wheel with a novel, optimistic geometry that helps the M34 punch above its weight from a technical standpoint. Initial thoughts Last year, Orient Star launched the brand’s first manually wound moon phase – made of mother-of-pearl no less – for fans of understated, formal watches. Now celebrating its 75th anniversary, Orient Star has cast aside restraint to mark the occasion with something for a more maximalist breed of collector. The new skeleton has a blacked-out case and bracelet and an open-worked version of its top-of-the-line F8 movement. Notably, the movement plates are bridges, which are exposed front and back, are decorated with a laser-etched meteorite motif that is impressively detailed. This skeletonised anniversary limited edition also features the latest technology from its powerhouse parent company Seiko Epson, including a silicon escape wheel with an especially advantageous design. While silicon is increasingly common in the watch industry, it is used primarily for hairsprings. This puts Orient on the list of short brands with a proprietary silicon escape wheel that includes blue-chip names like Patek Phil...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Elegant Orient Star M45 F7 Small Second
It was hard not to love, or at least feel some tenderness towards the Orient Bambino models (especially the Classic) released by the brand to mark its 75th anniversary. We are tempted again with the M45 F7 Small Second, as Orient Star (established in 1951, part of Seiko Epson since 2017) expands its Classic Collection […]
Time+Tide
The Watch Ho & Co x Selten Jui Bauhinia offers a familiar 39mm platform, now with Bauhinia light-play
Watch Ho & Co and Selten pay tribute to Hong Kong's famous floral emblem with a sequel to their stunning MOP dial collab.The post The Watch Ho & Co x Selten Jui Bauhinia offers a familiar 39mm platform, now with Bauhinia light-play appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Uh oh… Studio Underd0g’s in the D0ghouse, for reasons you may not expect
The disruptive British independent is bringing assembly fully in-house, opening The D0ghouse to visitors this May.The post Uh oh… Studio Underd0g’s in the D0ghouse, for reasons you may not expect appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase
Orient Star unveils three new versions of its flagship F7 Mechanical Moon Phase. Dials in white and navy blue join the regular lineup, while the light blue dial is a limited edition of 190 pieces. Having debuted in 2017, the F7 Mechanical Moon Phase combines three striking elements. The namesake moon phase sits at 6 […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase to read the full article.
Fratello
Formex Doubles Down On Ceramic With The Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC “Dark Matter” 41mm
What do you do when you have a good thing going? You double down, of course! Formex spent years developing a ceramic Essence with best-in-class finishing and a first-ever ceramic micro-adjustable clasp. The Swiss brand fitted it with a skeletonized dial for its debut earlier this year. And then, Formex doubled down indeed. This September, […] Visit Formex Doubles Down On Ceramic With The Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC “Dark Matter” 41mm to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – Tudor Adds a Dune White Dial and a New 36mm Version to the Ranger Collection
A slightly more discreet member of the Tudor collection, with the Black Bay stealing the show, the Ranger is the brand’s vision of an all-rounder exploration watch, inspired by a model first seen in the late 1960s. Tudor brought back the model in 2014, with the Tudor Heritage Ranger 79910, measuring 41mm in diameter and […]
SJX Watches
Viridian Starfall: Orient Star’s M34 F8 Date
Among Japan’s best-kept secrets, Orient Star occupies an intriguing middle ground between tradition and technology. Its latest creation, the Orient Star M34 F8 Date Green, captures that duality perfectly by combining an old-school movement with state-of-the-art dial and escapement components drawn from the vast capabilities of its parent company, Seiko Epson. The result is a watch that feels distinctly Japanese in both spirit and execution. The M34’s new green dial is embossed with a hand-engraved stamp and coated with an optical multi-layer film that creates shifting hues without a trace of pigment - an effect more often associated with much costlier watches. Beneath its shimmering surface lies Orient Star’s enduring in-house F8 movement, which continues a lineage that dates back to 1971. Initial thoughts The dial of the M34 immediately distinguishes it within its segment. Its engraved texture, embossed from a hand-engraved die, gives the surface a natural radiance, while the iridescent green tone - created through a PVD-applied optical multi-layer film - shifts fluidly under changing light. It’s a distinctly upmarket look that signals the depth of the Epson manufacturing ecosystem behind it. The case reflects that same industrial prowess, made entirely in-house within Seiko Epson’s facilities, using 316L stainless steel finished with Sallaz (more commonly known as ‘Zaratsu’) polishing to achieve distortion-free mirrored bevels. The 40 mm size and ...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: J. Player & Son Supercomplication – All 77 mm of It
Phillips’s upcoming sale in Geneva has the most attention-grabbing roster of the Geneva auctions, including the return of a record-setting Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in steel. Yet it was the J. Player & Son No. 11’901 that most affected me. Dubbed the “hyper” complication by Phillips, the watch belongs to a rarified group of swan-song supercomplications that memorialise the final days of English fine watchmaking. Despite being over a century old, the watch easily holds its own against the fine watchmaking of today, both in decoration and mechanics. By the turn of the century, the traditional watchmaking centers of England and France were besieged by vertically integrated American super-factories from the West, and cheap but skilful Swiss labour from the East, both of which benefited greatly from mechanisation. During the waning years of English fine watchmaking, the most prestigious firms responded by attempting to move even further upmarket with highly complicated watches, and the firms remained confident in the appeal of their products. “If they are more expensive, as they must necessarily be, they last the purchaser a lifetime,” said a representative of Nicole, Nielsen & Co., the company that built this watch, said of English watches in 1912, “The better classes, indeed, have always bought, and will always buy, English-made watches, and will not buy any others”. Swiss prelude This watch started life in Switzerland as ebauche number 7’321, according to Fr...
Time+Tide
The new Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica marks the first 40mm ceramic case for the line
This stealthy Panerai opens up this ceramic and GMT complication combination to a broader range of wrist sizes.The post The new Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica marks the first 40mm ceramic case for the line appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Norqain has a hot new purple limited edition of its Wild One Skeleton 42mm
A hot new purple bombshell has entered the Time+Tide London Discovery Studio villa...The post Norqain has a hot new purple limited edition of its Wild One Skeleton 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Silver Vignette Collection
It was one year ago that Awake introduced the Sơn Mài collection, ushering in a significant change for the young French brand. The watches, with their Vietnamese handmade dials, found immediate success. A combination of laquer, pigment, and silver leaf results in inky-abyss-like levels of depth to each dial. Now, to celebrate a year since […] Visit Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Silver Vignette Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
Earthen Co.’s New Summit Collection Convinced Me About Ceramic Watches
Back in the ’90s, I got really into watches. I remember sitting across from a guy on the train who was wearing a Rolex Explorer - one without the white gold surrounds on its hour markers, so probably a reference 1016. I asked him about it, and he said he had owned it for a […] Visit Earthen Co.’s New Summit Collection Convinced Me About Ceramic Watches to read the full article.
Fratello
My Favorite Datejust Is A 1601 No-Lume Lavender Dial
Choosing my favorite Datejust wasn’t a simple exercise. From 2021 through most of 2023, I acquired several vintage references. Each one was chosen for a reason. Hard-to-find dials combined with sharp cases and atypical bezels were my game. Two years later, these Datejust models remain as regular options in my wearing rotation. They’re fantastic, fit […] Visit My Favorite Datejust Is A 1601 No-Lume Lavender Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
From Homage to Heritage: Why I Traded My Seiko SPB317 for the 6105-8000
Every once in a while, a big box with Seiko watches arrives at the Fratello office. It contains the brand’s releases for the upcoming months and allows us to review and photograph them ahead of time. I still remember when I discovered the Seiko SPB317 in there, back in 2022. I immediately fell in love […] Visit From Homage to Heritage: Why I Traded My Seiko SPB317 for the 6105-8000 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Aera M-1 Blackbird
Is it too late to dub the summer of 2025 “Black Watch Summer”? That might be how I remember this particular season. The watch I’ve worn most, by far, as the temps have soared is my Ming 37.09 “Uni,” a blacked out void of a watch if ever there was one. And a few weeks ago at Windup I purchased my first vintage watch in ages, a DLC coated Favre-Leuba chronograph that I couldn’t pass on. And now, as we’re fully in the dog days, I sit here with the new Aera Instruments M-1 Blackbird on my wrist, another cool, sleek, blacked out watch that bolsters the notion that Aera is one of the most interesting accessible indies of the moment. I reviewed Aera’s D-1 dive watch a few years ago, and the tone of that review was one of pleasant surprise. At the time, the brand was in the midst of launching their second collection, and from the photos and press materials I had seen, I was struggling to make sense of why this brand needed to exist. That might seem like a harsh standard, but we live in a period where it’s incredibly easy to churn out incredibly generic sports watches for minimal money and talent that absolutely no one needs. The whole point of this website, as I see it, is to find the stuff that has a real reason to be made because it offers something different. So I was surprised to find that the D-1 subverted my expectations by flipping the idea of a dive watch on its head. It kind of looks like a generic dive watch at a glance, but every single detail is act...
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Explorer 36mm 124270 Review
The story of the Rolex Explorer 36 124270 began at Watches & Wonders 2021, which represented an important anniversary for Rolex in marking 50 years of the Explorer II, and expectations were high on what we might see the brand do with the collection. Contrary to some of the wilder predictions, Rolex played things relatively conservatively, bringing the new 3285 movement into the line while retaining the model's 42mm case. Ironically, a reversion to classic proportions did come, but it would be in the Explorer collection and a new Reference 124270, which moved back to a 36mm case size for the first time since the 39mm 214270 was introduced in 2010. This was seen as a very un-Rolex move at the time, but today, more than three years later, it’s a watch that makes a lot of sense, not just on its own, but for Rolex as a brand. The Rolex Explorer 36mm next to the older 39mm Rolex is a brand that generally moves in one direction and, until relatively recently, doesn’t go out of its way to acknowledge its past in any overt way. While Rolex still isn’t making throwback or vintage-inspired watches, the company has taken a slightly different approach in embracing its historic design DNA while transitioning its full range to the 32xx series of movements. Examples of this include the current generation of the Submariner, which has gone back to a thinner, more traditional lug; the Sea-Dweller Reference 126600, which uses a bit of red text on the bottom of the dial; and the most ove...