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Results for GMT & World Time

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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

Hands-On: the Apiar Gen1.0 Worn & Wound
Aug 15, 2025

Hands-On: the Apiar Gen1.0

The British brand Apiar has an intriguing slogan emblazoned across the front page of their website: Impossible Watches. Made Possible. If you spend enough time thinking about watches, collecting watches, and learning about watches, you begin to realize their limitations. Whether they’re chronometry related or have to do with the design and build of the watch itself, there are certain things that just can’t be done, or else stretch the limits of our current technology to the point where those things aren’t remotely feasible. The crazy idea you had for a watch case that defies the laws of physics might be something that only exists on paper.  Additive manufacturing and 3D printing technologies have the potential to change that. When a metal object is formed by adding material to it rather than stripping it away, a manufacturer can create shapes, textures, and structures that would be impossible otherwise. Apiar’s Gen1.0 is a thrilling example of the possibilities of 3D printing in watch manufacturing. They’re by no means the first to create watches this way, of course, but they’re part of a new class of brands using the technology in an experimental way that seems to finally make the most of it, creating not just beautiful objects that defy watchmaking convention, but watches that redefine our expectations around durability, lightness, and other metrics by which all of us evaluate these things. Importantly, the use of additive manufacturing also democratizes wat...

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands Fratello
Aug 15, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands

Another Friday, another list! This week, it’s time for the second installment of our series on affordable watches. Last week, we discussed our favorite mechanical watches under €500 from big brands. This second article focuses on the best watches for under €500 from small brands. Call them independents or microbrands, you get the idea. The […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands to read the full article.

Is The New Rolex 1908 Settimo Horological Perfection? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Rolex 1908 Settimo Horological Perfection? Aug 15, 2025

Is The New Rolex 1908 Settimo Horological Perfection? (Hands-On)

As always, Rolex represents the highest possible standard of the watchmaking world – but does this new 1908 model uphold this illustrious reputation? Let’s find out! What We Love: A perfectly executed contemporary design Extremely well-built and highly wearable Surprising value proposition, even among similar pieces What We Don’t: Clasp feels unnecessarily long Scratch and smudge magnet Movement finishing – Too little, too late? Overall Rating: 9.5/10 Value for Money: 10/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When it comes to watches, there are plenty of uncomfortable truths one must face. They’re hardly life-or-death scenarios, sure — but within the world we navigate as enthusiasts, there are a few pills that are undeniably hard to swallow. Some are classics, like how quartz movements are just as relevant to the industry as mechanical ones, or the ever-lingering question of how much cultural impact wristwatches still hold. But there’s one truth in particular that keeps many a watch lover up at night, clutching their favourite timepiece and hiding under the covers. That truth, of course, is this: Rolex is the greatest watch brand of all time. Naturally, there are plenty of valid, subjective counters to that claim. I, for one, would argue that Casio belongs on the same playing field simply because of its cultural popularity and accessibility. But when you look at the data, the case for Rolex is practically airtight. According to Morgan Stan...

Five Underrated Watches Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay P01 It Aug 14, 2025

Five Underrated Watches Under $5,000

There’s a universal appeal to the idea of the hidden gem. Whether it’s a watch, a movie, or a vacation destination, we all enjoy reveling in the underrated to some extent. It’s part of that sense of discovery that draws us to an enthusiast pursuit in the first place. As the watch world, and enthusiasm around the hobby grows, it gets harder to identify watches that are truly underrated – every watch seems to have its moment in the sun.  We thought it would be fun to identify a handful of watches that feel genuinely underrated at this particular moment, all under $5,000. Let us know your picks in the comments!  Zach Kazan – Tudor Black Bay P01 It was surprisingly challenging for me to think of the right underrated watch to discuss here. One of the problems with the way we talk about watches in 2025 is that everything, from the most mundane, black dialed diver, to highly experimental haute horlology, is heaped with praise. It’s not that the praise isn’t always warranted – there are a lot of great watches out there – but the inverse of this question, the most overrated watches on the market, would probably be a little easier to respond to. But, in the interest of keeping things positive, we thought, for now, we’d try to shine a light on some watches that don’t get enough attention.  Usually when we’re creating a group oriented list like this, my mind immediately goes to the independents. You could say I’m always trying to highlight the underrated s...

Going Hands-On With The Brand New Farer Integra Viridis With A Malachite Dial Fratello
Farer Integra Viridis Aug 14, 2025

Going Hands-On With The Brand New Farer Integra Viridis With A Malachite Dial

What I love about Farer is that you recognize their watches instantly. Over time, the English brand has developed a collection with a very distinct style. The dial colors, the font types, and the colorful overall presence of the watches have gained Farer many fans. The latest addition to the line-up is the new Integra […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Brand New Farer Integra Viridis With A Malachite Dial to read the full article.

First Look - The New Formex Essence Space Ghost 41mm Automatic COSC Monochrome
Formex Essence Space Ghost 41mm Aug 14, 2025

First Look - The New Formex Essence Space Ghost 41mm Automatic COSC

Formex’s Essence line, introduced in 2018, quickly earned respect as the brand’s versatile, go-anywhere sports watch, combining sharp case architecture, great engineering, and chronometer-certified accuracy. In 2020, the collection took on a cosmic turn with the debut of the Space Rock editions, featuring dials cut from the ancient Muonionalusta meteorite. Over time, these rare cosmic […]

Turning Visual Brilliance Up To Eleven With A White Gold Rolex Datejust With A Burl Wood Dial Fratello
Rolex Datejust Aug 14, 2025

Turning Visual Brilliance Up To Eleven With A White Gold Rolex Datejust With A Burl Wood Dial

Since we’re celebrating the 80th birthday of the Rolex Datejust, we thought it would be a good idea to have Fratello writers pick their favorite one of all time. The biggest challenge of writing an article in the tail-end of this Datejust series is that other writers have already claimed some of my favorite picks. […] Visit Turning Visual Brilliance Up To Eleven With A White Gold Rolex Datejust With A Burl Wood Dial to read the full article.

Omega Speedmaster Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Speedmaster Guide Aug 13, 2025

Omega Speedmaster Guide

The Omega Speedmaster, aka the Moonwatch, is one of the most legendary and collectible watch models in the world. Originally conceived as a wristwatch for race car drivers, it has since become much more associated with its pivotal role in history as the watch used by the astronauts on the Apollo 11 mission in 1969, thus making it the first watch worn on the moon. Now the undisputed centerpiece of the modern Omega watch portfolio, the original Speedmaster has not only changed very little from the timepiece that symbolized America’s Space Race supremacy more than 50 years ago; it has also given rise to dozens of special editions, innovative variations, and the use of bold new technologies and avant-garde materials in the pioneering spirit of early space exploration. 1957: A YEAR OF MASTERY The Space Race that dominated the 1960s had yet to kick off in 1957, the year that Omega, a Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1848, released a trio of sport-oriented tool watches with “Master” in their names, all descended stylistically from the first Seamaster of 1948, one of the first waterproof dress watches. One was the Seamaster 300, an evolution of the original that was built for deep-sea diving (I explore the Seamaster collection in depth here). The second was the Railmaster, a watch aimed at scientists and technicians whose technical hallmark was its extreme magnetic resistance (more on the Railmaster here). The third, and most influential, was the Speedmaster, which as i...

US Import Tariffs On Swiss Watches-How They Affect Watch Brands And Enthusiasts Fratello
Aug 13, 2025

US Import Tariffs On Swiss Watches-How They Affect Watch Brands And Enthusiasts

I am sure that most of you have read about Switzerland being hit with the harshest tariffs of all European countries last week. A whopping 39% tariff on goods imported to the US from the Alpine country came into effect on August 7th. The watch world is shaking as a result. Today, I would like […] Visit US Import Tariffs On Swiss Watches-How They Affect Watch Brands And Enthusiasts to read the full article.

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Unimatic Modello Uno ProDiver Collection Fratello
Unimatic Modello Uno ProDiver Collection Aug 12, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Unimatic Modello Uno ProDiver Collection

Unimatic has been busy introducing a string of clever new releases. Only last week, I did a hands-on review of the brand Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver from a series of nice vintage-inspired models. Today, we get treated to a new trio of models who are taking a different road. The three Modello Uno ProDiver […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Unimatic Modello Uno ProDiver Collection to read the full article.

Introducing: The Seiko Alpinist EU Limited Edition In Blue Fratello
Seiko Alpinist EU Limited Edition Aug 9, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko Alpinist EU Limited Edition In Blue

There’s no shortage of Seiko releases these days, but few pique our interest quite like a new Alpinist. The rugged field watch has earned cult status over the years, balancing quirky charm with real-world capability. Now, with the introduction of the Seiko Alpinist SPB531, the brand adds a Europe-only edition in a deep, moody blue. […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Alpinist EU Limited Edition In Blue to read the full article.

Sherpa Introduces the New Atoll and Tuxedo Versions of the Ultradive Worn & Wound
Aug 8, 2025

Sherpa Introduces the New Atoll and Tuxedo Versions of the Ultradive

Sherpa has announced a pair of new Ultradive references, expanding their core dive watch line. Sherpa launched in 2021 with a relatively narrow focus, which is honestly something I appreciate in a time period where too many watch brands want to be all things to all people. They make extremely specific dive watches, with compressor cases, and infuse each watch with principles of Buddhism literally built into the movement (the brand’s founder, Martin Klocke, is a practicing Buddhist). The new Ultradive watches, the Tuxedo and the Atoll, bring some variety to the collection without changing things up too dramatically.  Before getting into the specifics of each watch, it’s important to step back a bit and familiarize ourselves with the compressor case concept. It’s a technology that has been nearly lost to time as manufacturing has improved across the board and creating highly water resistant watches has, in general, become easier. But it’s an important part of dive watch history and watchmaking history in general. These cases, originally developed by Ervin Piquerez SA (otherwise known as EPSA), essentially employed a specially designed caseback that would seal under light pressure when not submerged in water, but under increasing pressure, the seal would become tighter and tighter. These cases rather ingeniously used the force of the water pressure against the case to its own benefit. Over the years, several versions of this EPSA case were developed, and Sherpa has a...

Sign up For The Cartier × Fratello Event - Tank: The Journey of a Timeless Icon Fratello
Cartier × Fratello Event - Aug 8, 2025

Sign up For The Cartier × Fratello Event - Tank: The Journey of a Timeless Icon

For the first time ever, Cartier will showcase a curated selection of heritage watches from its iconic Tank collection in the heart of Amsterdam. The exhibition will take place in Cartier’s beautifully appointed boutique on the P.C. Hooftstraat - a location the Maison has proudly called home for exactly 50 years. This milestone coincides with […] Visit Sign up For The Cartier × Fratello Event - Tank: The Journey of a Timeless Icon to read the full article.

First Look - The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days in Black DLC Titanium and Gold (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Aug 8, 2025

First Look - The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days in Black DLC Titanium and Gold (Incl. Video)

It’s mind-boggling to think that Bulgari’s legion of Octo Finissimo watches has conquered the landscape of ultra-thin watches with ten world records in just 11 years. Equally impressive is the Octo Finissimo’s potent cocktail of horological virtuosity and contemporary Italian style. While the Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days did not break any ultra-thin records, it […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Big Brands Fratello
Aug 8, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Big Brands

Another Friday, another list! This week, we move on from the ongoing retrospective of the first six months of the year. It’s time to change the topic. This week, we kick off a trilogy of lists focusing on affordable watches. To be more specific, over the course of the next three weeks, we will look […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Big Brands to read the full article.