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Results for GMT & World Time

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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

The Rolex Logo: The Story Of The Crown Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Sep 29, 2025

The Rolex Logo: The Story Of The Crown

The Rolex "crown" logo is one of the most recognizable brand marks in the world, signifying the Swiss watchmaker's international renown for exclusivity, luxury, and prestige of ownership. It has been around longer than you probably realize, and, much in keeping with the ethos of Rolex, has seen very little change (although that's not to say it's been entirely unchanged) over its decades-long existence. Here's what you should know about Rolex's legendary corporate symbol and the role it continues to play in defining Rolex as a world leader in luxury watches.  Origin of Rolex Brand Name Before the Rolex logo came the Rolex brand name. And unbeknownst to many enthusiasts these days, their favorite brand’s name has not always been Rolex. The original name, Wilsdorf & Davis, referenced the surnames of Hans Wilsdorf (above), a German entrepreneur schooled in the business of Swiss watchmaking, and his partner and brother-in-law, Alfred Davis, who founded the original company in London’s Hatton Garden commercial district in 1905. Wilsdorf was an early proponent of wristwatches, which in those days before World War I were still not as widely popular among gentlemen as pocket watches. The company assembled watches from cases and movements imported from Switzerland, where Wilsdorf had previously worked for a watch manufacturer and exporter, and exported them throughout the British Empire. Wilsdorf bought out Davis’s share of the company in 1919, right around the same time that...

Formex Introduces New Dial Options in the Essence Ceramica Collection Worn & Wound
Formex Introduces New Dial Options Sep 29, 2025

Formex Introduces New Dial Options in the Essence Ceramica Collection

One of the most exciting releases of the year that has weirdly gone a little under the radar is the Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton, which debuted in March just ahead of Watches & Wonders craziness. The timing of that release, in retrospect, may have somewhat dampened the response – it’s just an insanely competitive time on the novelties calendar. But I imagine anyone who has had a chance to handle these watches in person, at a Windup Watch Fair or elsewhere, comes away with a similar positive reaction. It’s just incredibly impressive that Formex is able to offer a watch with a full ceramic case and bracelet at the price point that these watches sit at (around $5,000 at today’s exchange rate). If there was a single loud objection to that initial batch of watches, it was likely centered around the skeletonized dial, which is just a bridge too far for some. It was only a matter of time before Formex announced non-skeletonized versions of the Essence Ceramica, and lucky for ceramic watch loving enthusiasts, that time is now.  The new Essence Ceramica references arrive with the same full ceramic construction as their predecessors. The 41mm case still features the Formex Case Suspension System (a feature that allows the case to “flex” with your wrist for comfort and to mitigate shock) along with a screw down crown and that fantastic ceramic bracelet with micro-adjust on the clasp. The ceramic material is lightweight (30% lighter than steel) and much harder, so it...

Esha Gupta talks watches, and Andrew reveals his new watch alert! Time+Tide
Sep 29, 2025

Esha Gupta talks watches, and Andrew reveals his new watch alert!

Andrew welcomes Bollywood actress, model, environmentalist, and Indian superstar Esha Gupta to the Time+Tide London Watch Discovery Studio, where they dive into the worlds of cinema and watches with passion and insight. Their conversation reveals Esha’s love for watches, which she views as expressions of personality and storytelling, rather than mere status symbols. Andrew showcases … ContinuedThe post Esha Gupta talks watches, and Andrew reveals his new watch alert! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try? Fratello
Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing Sep 29, 2025

Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try?

The new Tudor 1926 Luna marks an unexpected first for the brand - a moonphase complication. We have come to expect new variations within the Black Bay or Pelagos lines. This time, though, Tudor chose its most understated collection for a milestone complication. The result is a 39mm dressy number with the brand’s very first […] Visit Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try? to read the full article.

Entry-Level Cartier: Four Options From New To Vintage Fratello
Cartier Four Options From New Sep 28, 2025

Entry-Level Cartier: Four Options From New To Vintage

Cartier is a brand that has been on an absolute roll in recent years. Some readers may remember a time when self-proclaimed watch geeks unfairly considered Cartier “a jewelry brand that also sells watches.” However, the tide of perception has truly shifted in the last decade or so, and Cartier’s timepieces now seem hotter than […] Visit Entry-Level Cartier: Four Options From New To Vintage to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Lorier Neptune Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 Fratello
Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 Welcome Sep 28, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Lorier Neptune Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe MK2

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! Daan and Thomas face off with two affordable vintage-inspired dive watches this time. Thomas defends the Lorier Neptune, while Daan represents the new Baltic Aquascaphe MK2. These contenders have the aesthetic of ’50s and ’60s dive watches and house modern Miyota movements in 39(.5)mm cases. The Lorier costs US$599, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Lorier Neptune Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 to read the full article.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Review: The Quintessential Dress Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Sep 27, 2025

Patek Philippe Calatrava Review: The Quintessential Dress Watch?

More than 90 years ago, Patek Philippe launched the watch that would become its signature, the legendary Calatrava - informed by Bauhaus simplicity, conceived of economic pragmatism, and boldly establishing the template for scores of men’s dress watches to follow. Today’s Calatrava collection is vast, comprising numerous high complications, but the basic time-only dress version remains the gateway drug for many a budding Patek enthusiast. In 2025, Patek Philippe unveiled the latest version, the salmon-dialed Ref. 6916, which represents the culmination of many decades’ worth of evolution on both the aesthetic and technical sides. Here is the story behind the Calatrava, and why it has become an undisputed icon of understated luxury. Reference 96 (1932) In the throes of the Great Depression, a new era was dawning for one of the great horological houses of Switzerland. Like much of the rest of the watch industry, Patek Philippe, which traced its prestigious history all the way back to 1839, had fallen on hard times by 1932. That was the year that brothers Jean and Charles Stern, founders of Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères, a successful Swiss dial-making factory and a longtime supplier for Patek Philippe, acquired the latter company and swiftly began the work of updating its product portfolio. In a modern age increasingly dominated by the wristwatches that had surged in popularity since the end of World War I, Patek’s output still largely consisted of ornate, highl...

Introducing: The Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki And Usuki Models Fratello
Kurono Tokyo Hajime Asaoka Kikuchi […] Sep 27, 2025

Introducing: The Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki And Usuki Models

Switzerland, Germany, and Japan make up my “big three” of the watchmaking world, with France on the rise. Yet, of all these hubs, Japan has been slow to embrace the microbrand trend. Big brands, including Seiko, Grand Seiko, Citizen, Orient, and Casio, dominate the market. Recently, however, independents such as Kurono Tokyo, Hajime Asaoka, Kikuchi […] Visit Introducing: The Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki And Usuki Models to read the full article.

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Few chronographs Sep 26, 2025

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph

Few chronographs capture the spirit of their era as vividly as the Heuer Monaco. Born at the crossroads of watchmaking tradition and a rapidly changing world, it arrived in 1969 with angles as sharp as the decade itself. Following our article covering the story of the Heuer Carrera Chronograph, we now look at the history […]

Bremont’s New Direction: Davide Cerrato on Challenges, Vision, and British Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Bremont s New Direction Davide Sep 26, 2025

Bremont’s New Direction: Davide Cerrato on Challenges, Vision, and British Watchmaking

It’s not hyperbole to say that Bremont’s presentation at Watches & Wonders 2024 was one of the most hotly discussed and contentious events in the watch industry in years. The British brand, long associated with their founders, brothers Nick and Giles English, was now under the control of a new CEO, watch industry veteran Davide Cerrato, and a new ownership group. We knew ahead of time that the watches presented at the show would represent a new direction for the brand, one that would apparently see them reaching for the mass market, well beyond the deep enthusiast core audience they had cultivated so carefully since the brand’s founding. What we didn’t know at the time was the watches, a new logo, and a surprising new look and feel for the brand itself would cause so much consternation.  It’s a common complaint that watch media types are soft on watches that are objectively bad. Think of all the times you’ve seen a comment on an Instagram post or a watch article asking sarcastically if a piece of editorial content is bought and paid for by a brand. That somewhat ridiculous line of thinking is a topic for another day, but I think it’s fair to say no one accused any real writer of being soft on Bremont during Watches & Wonders 2024 and in the weeks shortly thereafter. Our own post was, I thought, a fairly balanced critique compared to some. My opinion in the days after the show was very much a first, hazy impression of a brand that had suddenly lost its footin...

First Look – The New Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition Shines in Aventurine Monochrome
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition Sh... Sep 26, 2025

First Look – The New Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition Shines in Aventurine

Over the past two decades, the PanoMaticLunar has established itself as one of Glashütte Original’s most recognisable models. Its off-centred time display, Panorama Date, and moon-phase complication have become defining features of the collection, embodying the Saxon approach to precision, order, and poetry. Along the way, the PanoMaticLunar has experimented with colour, moving from the […]

David Candaux Thinks Differentially with the DC12 MaveriK SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sep 25, 2025

David Candaux Thinks Differentially with the DC12 MaveriK

After a few quiet years, David Candaux has introduced the DC12 MaveriK – the brand’s fourth model and its first without a tourbillon. A deceptively complicated time-only watch, the DC12 features twin escapements linked by a differential, a mechanism deeply rooted in the twentieth century history of the Vallée de Joux. Housed in an organic 39.5 mm titanium case, the DC12 is the most affordable watch yet from the Le Solliat-based watchmaker, but retains the brand’s signature push-button crown below the dial. Initial thoughts An experienced constructor who can count the MB&F; HM6 and Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie among his credits, David Candaux launched his eponymous brand in 2017. But he would be the first to tell you it was not an easy start, managing to sell just 14 watches during his first four years in business. This is not uncommon in the world of independent watchmaking; look around at some of the most popular independent brands today and you’ll hear a similar story about their early days. Mr Candaux’s business subsequently picked up some momentum, and in the past four years the brand claims to have made an additional 42 pieces. If true, it’s an encouraging sign for a watchmaker with something of a chequered past as an independent constructor, who is said to have had difficulty meeting obligations to client brands. In some ways, the DC12 is the embodiment of this journey, being simpler and cheaper than Mr Candaux’s previous models....

Frederique Constant expands the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture range with two new dials in steel, plus a luxurious gold halo model Time+Tide
Frederique Constant expands Sep 25, 2025

Frederique Constant expands the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture range with two new dials in steel, plus a luxurious gold halo model

The most affordable perpetual calendar on the market gets silver and blue dials in steel plus a baller yellow gold, onyx-dialled model.The post Frederique Constant expands the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture range with two new dials in steel, plus a luxurious gold halo model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.