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Baselworld

The annual Basel watch and jewellery fair 1917-2020; collapsed when Rolex/Patek/Tudor/Chanel withdrew in April 2020.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A: Patek’s First Production Steel Dress Watch in Decades Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref Jul 29, 2023

Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A: Patek’s First Production Steel Dress Watch in Decades

Patek Philippe surprised Joshua Munchow at Baselworld 2019 with the launch of the Weekly Calendar, a new dress watch in stainless steel and the brand's first steel-encased production model since the 1970s. The 5212A Calatrava Weekly Calendar is a mix of modern technology, classic style, and a couple of unique touches that help it stand out from Patek Philippe’s typical offerings, making it one of his favorite watches from the Genevan giant in quite a while.

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Monta Announces a Triumph with a Military Green Dial, and the End (For Now) of their Beloved Field Watch Worn & Wound
Monta Jul 18, 2023

Monta Announces a Triumph with a Military Green Dial, and the End (For Now) of their Beloved Field Watch

Monta surprised Windup Chicago attendees this weekend with the surprise unveiling of a new colorway for their popular Triumph model. The Triumph is the brand’s take on a classic military field watch, so the new green dial feels like a natural choice for the way it evokes uniforms and other military iconography, and brings an even more tool-like feel to the Triumph.  The Triumph has been around since 2017 and is one of the longest standing Monta references. When it was introduced at Baselworld that year, a sunburst green dial was among the variants on display. This new version is a very different take on the color, however, with a more pronounced olive tone and a lacquer finish. Hands, hour markers, and Arabic numerals are all in a crisp, high contrast white, with the hands and markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 given a rhodium plating for increased legibility.  Aside from the new dial, this is the same Triumph that Monta fans have come to love over the years. It features the same top notch finishing that Monta has always been known for, which in the case of the Triumph means a case that’s entirely brushed, except for thin chamfers on the bracelet, bezel, and lugs. The case measures 38.5mm in diameter and is just 9.7mm thick, but still has a full 150 meters of water resistance thanks to its robust construction and screw down crown.  The military green dialed Triumph is a limited edition of 95 pieces, and is now available for pre-order at a price of $1,700. It’s also worth ...

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Business News: Watches & Wonders Announces 2024 Dates SJX Watches
Jul 11, 2023

Business News: Watches & Wonders Announces 2024 Dates

Building on the success of this year’s edition, the world’s largest luxury watch fair returns next year: Watches & Wonders 2024 will take place once again at the Palexpo convention centre in Geneva from April 9-15, 2023, with the last three days being open to the public. The 2023 event saw a record 43,000 visitors attend, almost double the number in 2022. Next year’s Watches & Wonders (W&W;) will probably be even bigger. The list of participating brands for next year’s fair will be announced at a later date, though it is expected that the tally will rise compared to this year’s instalment. At the same time, W&W; next year will include three “public days” at the end where anyone can buy a ticket to enter, an increase over the two days of 2023. The growing list of exhibiting brands and additional public days furthers the event’s goal of making itself more accessible, while still enabling members of the trade, namely press and retailers, to attend the fair during the trade-only period during the first four days of the event. The increase in both exhibitors and public days brings the event closer to the model of Baselworld, which welcomed exhibitors and visitors from everywhere. And as was the case this year, brands with boutiques in downtown Geneva, mainly on the Rue du Rhône, will organise in-store events in addition to the goings-on inside Palexpo. These city events will be primarily for the public and clients.  

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Editorial: Happenings Around the Halls of Watches & Wonders SJX Watches
Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour Apr 5, 2023

Editorial: Happenings Around the Halls of Watches & Wonders

With the demise of Baselworld shortly before the pandemic and the evolution of SIHH into Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the Geneva fair is now the most important watch event on the planet. Having just closed, W&W; recorded massive visitor numbers and unexpectedly buoyant sentiment amongst industry executives. Despite the implosion of Credit Suisse the week before and assorted troubles around the world, sentiment at the fair amongst industry insiders was robust, catching most by surprise. Brands executives indicated orders from retailers were good as was interest from clients, and expressed optimism for the coming year. Pessimism was hard to find, although a handful of well-placed individuals high up in important brands quietly pondered what things would look like in six months – the health of components suppliers to the industry will provide a clue. The irony is that brands run by such thoughtful individuals are usually the best placed to weather any downturn. Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour (left), who is also the chairman of the W&W; foundation Everyone wants a look To anyone who was at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the most tangible fact was the enormous and occasionally unmanageable crowd. According to its organisers, visitors numbered 43,000, compared to just 22,000 last year. Unsurprisingly, the celebratory mood of the organisers was clear in the closing announcement for the event. However, the preparations for the jump in visitors were clearly insufficient because ...

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Rolex Introduces the Daytona Ref. 126500 SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Daytona Ref. 126500

For the 60th anniversary of the Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex has given the collection a subtle refresh with both technical and aesthetic improvements. The upgrades are fairly significant considering the outgoing 116500 was only seven years old, having debuted at Baselworld in 2016, and is still one of the most sought-after watches on the market. At launch, there are five key references and 11 total variations. Topping the range is a new platinum model that offers a transparent case back – a first for a Daytona. The platinum model benefits from a transparent caseback and a gold oscillating weight Initial thoughts The outgoing Daytona ref. 116500 was arguably the best chronograph in its category, and inarguably difficult to buy at retail price. Not content with this success, Rolex has made a great watch even better. The upgrades are subtle, but there are numerous changes inside and out. Starting with the dial, the sub-dial rings and dial markers have grown thinner, as has the ceramic bezel which now features a protective outer ring crafted from the same material as the middle case. The new Daytona has a slimmer case, under 12 mm for the first time. Note the gold ring around the edge of the ceramic bezel. Reduced thickness seems to be something of a theme for Rolex this year, and the Daytona is no exception, shedding 0.5 mm for a new total thickness of 11.9 mm. The outgoing Daytona was already quite thin relative to its peers, and the sleeker dimensions of the new model only m...

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Watches & Wonders Geneva Announces Public Days SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jan 18, 2023

Watches & Wonders Geneva Announces Public Days

The world’s biggest luxury-watch fair, Watches & Wonders (W&W;), is set to take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 at the Palexpo convention centre. The successor to both SIHH and Baselworld, W&W; will see forty-eight brands showcase their latest. This year’s exhibitors include Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, as well as the the big luxury groups, namely Richemont, which owns Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and A. Lange & Söhne, and LVMH, owner of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot. W&W; will be open to the public on its final two days of April 1 and 2. Tickets, however, will be required to attend W&W;. They will be available for purchase on the W&W; website starting February 1, 2023, at 12 pm (GMT+1). A ticket costs CHF 70, similar to that of Baselworld. Beyond the fair in Palexpo, W&W; also encompasses events in the city centre meant to enhance accessibility. Exhibiting brands with boutiques along Rue du Rhône and Rues Basses, adjacent streets in Geneva’s prime shopping area, will stage their own events and exhibitions in their stores. At the same time, the organising body of W&W; will have talks and panel discussions at its headquarters at Pont de la Machine. The public days of W&W; bring it closer to the Baselworld model, which historically opened its doors to one and all, both in terms of exhibitors and visitors. As a result, Baselworld enjoyed a six-figure visitors numbers in its best years (though its exhibitors included the jewellery trade and suppliers). In ...

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How the Tudor Black Bay struck gold as a modern tool watch with real vintage heritage Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay struck gold Dec 21, 2022

How the Tudor Black Bay struck gold as a modern tool watch with real vintage heritage

Upon its release in 2012, the Tudor Black Bay set the watch world ablaze with a blockbuster reception, a pretty clear result of pent-up demand for a retro-inspired diver. At its debut during the Baselworld show, it represented a sort of “greatest hits” collection of design cues from some of the brand’s best-loved historical references, … ContinuedThe post How the Tudor Black Bay struck gold as a modern tool watch with real vintage heritage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Six manufacturers that ditched industry giants for Kenissi movements Time+Tide
Breitling Sep 5, 2022

Six manufacturers that ditched industry giants for Kenissi movements

Initially introduced as the maker of Tudor’s in-house calibres, Kenissi is becoming a manufacturing powerhouse, becoming involved with an ever-growing number of brands. After Tudor’s efforts for Baselworld 2015, Kenissi was created as a producer of movements for Tudor and other brands, now standing as a joint venture of Tudor, Breitling and Chanel. Along with … ContinuedThe post Six manufacturers that ditched industry giants for Kenissi movements appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Business News: Watches & Wonders Returns to Geneva in March 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Jul 12, 2022

Business News: Watches & Wonders Returns to Geneva in March 2023

Having successfully pulled off the first large-scale watch fair in Switzerland since the pandemic started – and the first expanded event that included Baselworld transplants like Rolex and Patek Philippe – the organisers of Watches & Wonder will be doing it again next year. Watches & Wonders 2023 will take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 – though those are “provisional dates” according to the organisers. But before that the event will take place in two cities in China. First on the tropical resort island of Hainan from October to December 2022 where it will happen simultaneously in Haikou and Sanya. The CDF Mall in Sanya Last year’s W&W; at the West Bund Art Centre in Shanghai Each of these respective events will be taking place in a shopping mall operated by one of the country’s two primary duty-free retailers, China Tourism Group (CTG) in Haikou and China Duty Free Group (CDF) in Sanya. And then from November 23 to 27, W&W; will move to the West Bund Art Center in Shanghai, where it took place in previous years. Intriguingly, the announcement the 2023 event in Geneva begins with “Watches and Wonders announces… its first provisional dates for 2023”. And it omits the list of exhibiting brands. That is perhaps a hint that next year’s event will not have the same exhibitors as this year, reflecting widely discussed tensions between the various exhibiting brands and groups.  

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VIDEO: Come behind the scenes with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO Catherine Rénier at the BEST booth of Watches and Wonders Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s CEO Catherine Rénier May 6, 2022

VIDEO: Come behind the scenes with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO Catherine Rénier at the BEST booth of Watches and Wonders

Anyone that’s attended a major watch fair – Baselworld, SIHH, Watches and Wonders, less so Geneva Watch Days – knows that the scale and grandeur of these shindigs pushes the bounds of belief. Impossible is nothing when it comes to the extravagant architecture and wild scope of vision that brands unveil to help get their … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Come behind the scenes with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO Catherine Rénier at the BEST booth of Watches and Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Why The 2022 Watches And Wonders Geneva Might Be The Last Of Its Kind Quill & Pad
Mar 12, 2022

Why The 2022 Watches And Wonders Geneva Might Be The Last Of Its Kind

As GaryG prepares for his trip to Switzerland for Watches and Wonders 2022, the demise of Baselworld is very much on his mind. It seems to him that the era of all-inclusive mega watch shows is rapidly coming to an end. The natural implication is that Watches and Wonders Geneva will be the next exhibition to change radically or that it will even cease to exist. Here he explains why.

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Watches & Wonders Will Return to Geneva in 2022 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 5, 2021

Watches & Wonders Will Return to Geneva in 2022

After two years of digital fairs – and several sold-out physical fairs in China – Watches & Wonders is finally happening in Geneva. First announced for 2020 as the successor to the long-running SIHH, which for two decades was the luxury-watch fair in Geneva, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) 2022 will take place from March 30 to April 5 at Palexpo, with 39 brands in attendance. All of the major names that spurred the demise of Baselworld will exhibit at W&W; 2022, namely Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor. They’ll be joined by most of the brands owned by Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that was historically the anchor of SIHH, the event that preceded W&W;. Amongst the Richemont brands are A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, IWC, and Vacheron Constantin. Another luxury group represented at the fair is LVMH, which has all three of its watch brands – Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith – taking part. Bulgari, however, is notably absent, perhaps because there are already two Richemont-owned jewellers present. One of the significant newcomers is Grand Seiko, which only just announced its participation in the fair. Seiko was a longtime mainstay of Baselworld, so it’s not surprising that its top-of-the-line brand is returning to Switzerland to exhibit its newest watches. The gang returns, except for the independents As was the case with SIHH in the past, W&W; 2022 will include the Carré des Horlogers, a square dedicated to independent watchmakers. In years past the carré co...

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A Week On The Wrist: The Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver Hodinkee
Maurice Lacroix Sep 30, 2021

A Week On The Wrist: The Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver

The Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver was formally introduced at Baselworld back in 2013, where it won over crowds of journalists with a vintage inspired design just too simple to pass up. As difficult as it is to stand out in the vintage dive watch market, Maruice Lacroix seems to have struck a chord with the Pontos S Diver. Now that the watch has had a chance to settle into the market, we’ve decided to see just how well it’s held up by giving it a week on our wrist.

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Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore SJX Watches
IWC Big Pilots Sep 17, 2021

Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore

Fully booked before it even opened, the IWC Big Pilot Exhibition in Singapore recently closed its doors and the 31 Big Pilot’s Watches that were on show have returned home to the IWC Museum in Schaffhausen. But for those who missed the show, we round up some of the historically significant examples that were on displayed. The lineup naturally includes the very first Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002, and also the ultra-rare Markus Bühler “Turbine” ref. 5003. (And the Big Pilot Roadshow will happen in various cities in the United States starting September; details at the end of this article.) 2002 – Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002 The modern-day Big Pilot can be traced back to the gigantic beobachtungsuhr (or”B-uhr” for short) that IWC supplied to the German air force in 1940. The one that started it all was the Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 500201 (widely known as the ref. 5002) that debuted at Baselworld in 2002. Codenamed “Big Pilot’s Watch – Mark XXI” while in development, the Big Pilot was due in part to the commercial success of the compact Mark 12 pilot’s watch. At the same time, it was also devised as a platform for the recently-launched, seven-day automatic cal. 5000, a movement large enough that the resulting pilot’s watch had to be, well, big. And big it was, though the ref. 5002 was smaller than the second world war original that was 55 mm. Still it retained many of the elements that defined the vintage B-uhr – onion crown, Arabic numerals, ...

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Breguet Reine de Naples 8938: Just Perfect For My Wrist Quill & Pad
Breguet Reine de Naples 8938 Aug 10, 2021

Breguet Reine de Naples 8938: Just Perfect For My Wrist

When Nancy Olson first saw the Breguet Reine de Naples at Baselworld many years ago, she remembers being taken by its absolute gorgeousness. It was so much more than a jewelry watch and it seemed to be made just for her wrist. Many years and many “try-ons” later, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s flagship ladies collection, the most recent of which is the Reine de Naples 8938, which is available in two beautifully diamond-set versions.

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Breaking News: Watches & Wonders Geneva to Return in Physical Format SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rolex Jun 3, 2021

Breaking News: Watches & Wonders Geneva to Return in Physical Format

Even before the pandemic took hold, the last couple of years have been chaotic for Switzerland’s major watch fairs, with many an unexpected turn of events before COVID-19 put an end to the physical event in 2020. But now it appears the world is back on track, with Watches & Wonders (W&W;) slated to take place at end-March 2022 – as a physical event in its traditional Palexpo venue. The return of W&W;, now Switzerland’s only large-scale watch fair, feels long overdue. Arguably the saga began in 2018 when watchmaking giant Swatch Group exited Baselworld, then still the largest jewellery and watch fair in the world. Its departure triggered a chain reaction that would eventually prove fatal for Baselworld. Stalwart exhibitors including Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Chanel pulled out of Baselworld, sealing the event’s fate – and resulting in a small kerfuffle over exhibition-fee refunds. The brands departed Baselworld to join the fair in Geneva, then still known as SIHH. It was renamed W&W; to welcome the new exhibitors – and ran headlong into a major public-health crisis. Only one physical watch fair took place in Switzerland in 2020, albeit it on a small scale. It was only in China that a full-scale W&W; did happen, twice no less, demonstrating the frenzied demand for luxury watches there. A scene from SIHH 2019, the last time a full-scale watch fair happened in Switzerland After a two-year hiatus, W&W; till take place from March 30 to April 5, 2022, at Palexpo, the con...

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Rolex Introduces the Datejust 36 “Exotic Dials” SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Apr 8, 2021

Rolex Introduces the Datejust 36 “Exotic Dials”

Presented at Baselworld 2018, the current generation Rolex Datejust 36 sticks to the look and feel of its predecessor, but its internals were given a thorough upgrade with a latest-generation cal. 3235 movement. At Watches & Wonders 2021, Rolex has introduced a series of textured dials for the Datejust 36, giving the model a variety of distinct looks, either a palm leaf or horizontal fluted motif. Initial Thoughts Sometimes criticised for a conservative approach to design – Rolex iterates and improves rather than redesigns – the new Datejust 36 now offers the perhaps greatest aesthetic variety in the entire Rolex line up, both in terms of dial styles and colours, but also case materials, and gem setting. Despite being individually different, the new dials fit right into Datejust collection. My favourite is the most affordable of the four, the Datejust 36 with a green dial featuring the palm frond pattern (and a domed bezel and Oyster bracelet) that instantly brings to mind a summer vacation in the tropics. Traditionalists, on the other hand, will likely be drawn to the Datejust in two-tone, yellow-gold Rolesor on a Jubilee bracelet that has a geometric linear dial pattern that echoes the Datejust’s iconic fluted bezel. Notably, the models with the new dials cost the same as the corresponding models with older dial designs. There’s now even more choice in the diverse Datejust line up, with something for everyone. The traditionalist’s choice: the fluted dial is a...

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Karel Rotation By Independent Czech Watchmaker Ludek Seryn: Symmetry In Perfect Harmony – Reprise Quill & Pad
Mar 27, 2021

Karel Rotation By Independent Czech Watchmaker Ludek Seryn: Symmetry In Perfect Harmony – Reprise

To maximize his chances of being invited to exhibit with the AHCI at Baselworld 2019, independent Czech watchmaker Ludek Seryn felt he had to come up with something really outstanding: a watch that would bring him attention from both his fellow independent watchmakers and watch aficionados. With his creative Karel Rotation, it looks like he did just that.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The rumours and regrets edition, as well as new Omega and a brand new Bremont building Time+Tide
Bremont building Mar 25, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The rumours and regrets edition, as well as new Omega and a brand new Bremont building

The pandemic has forced the watch industry to evolve. Not just in the way that retail has had to adapt, but in the way that new watches are launched. A decade ago, every brand rotated in orbit around the gravitational mass of the various watch fairs such as Baselworld and SIHH, but today new watches … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The rumours and regrets edition, as well as new Omega and a brand new Bremont building appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Feb 19, 2021

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt

While not the fanciest hotel in Basel – that title goes to Les Trois Rois across the river – the Swissôtel Le Plaza Basel was synonymous with the luxury watch brands that exhibited in Baselworld, the once dominant watch fair that was crippled by the departure of key exhibitors like Rolex and Patek Philippe, and then the pandemic. Located just across the street from Messe Basel, the sprawling convention centre where Baselworld once took place, the Swissôtel Basel was declared bankrupt by a Basel court in early last month. The hotel was heavily dependent on the city’s primary trade fairs, Art Basel and Baselworld. According to past news reports, over 60% of revenue at the Basel hotel came from trade fair bookings. And those trade fair bookings were exorbitant. So pricey that only the industry’s biggest movers and shakers could stay there – the hotel typically imposed a 10-day minimum stay for Baselworld leading to a bill of about 7000 Swiss francs per room – the Swissôtel Basel was a place where you could spot Thierry Stern, any one of the Hayeks who control Swatch Group, and the occasional Bugatti parked in front. According to industry insiders who had rooms booked for Baselworld 2020, the hotel did not offer refunds and instead moved the bookings to 2021. With clients sitting at the bottom of the ranking of creditors, it is unlikely that any of the fees will be repaid. Though managed by Accor, the French group that owns the Swissôtel brand, the Swissôtel...

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